tenacres1100
Very Well-Known Member
it is a simple trip as well 
First python!
- Thread starter blakehose
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tenacres1100
Very Well-Known Member
wow, your lucky
give them a call and they'll tell you what they want and how fresh :lol:not to sure on what they will charge but it shouldn't be to much
depends on ur vet and if ur just getting the poo tested or if tehyre actually seeing teh animal...
give em a call and ask if u can just bring the poo in,..should only be about 20ish..
i wouldnt worm a worm free animal any more than i'd get chemotherapy without having cancer,....best off finding out if its necessary.
of my 17 animals only 1 ever had worms once and that was a baby beardy who got them from teh filthy petshop crickets.
has ur snake ever been fed live food?
give em a call and ask if u can just bring the poo in,..should only be about 20ish..
i wouldnt worm a worm free animal any more than i'd get chemotherapy without having cancer,....best off finding out if its necessary.
of my 17 animals only 1 ever had worms once and that was a baby beardy who got them from teh filthy petshop crickets.
has ur snake ever been fed live food?
blakehose
Very Well-Known Member
yeah I will go in and get it tested before going ahead and treating. It hasnt been fed live food as far as I know, so it should be clean. but I dont want to take the risk ! Also a question, i checked the hide he was in earlier, and gently touched him on the back and he was relatively cold to touch, he has been in the hide sleeping all day in the centre of the cage. is it normal for them to be a bit cool at times?
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pythons73
Very Well-Known Member
blakehose
Very Well-Known Member
Also a question, i checked the hide he was in earlier, and gently touched him on the back and he was relatively cold to touch, he has been in the hide sleeping all day in the centre of the cage. is it normal for them to be a bit cool at times? can someone answer this one for me. im stressing a bit as its my first snake !
pythons73
Very Well-Known Member
Hi Blakehose,some times their in the cool end, others in the warm end.He will regulate his body temperature by moving back and forwards from each end.Dont stress all is good by the sounds of it...MARK
blakehose
Very Well-Known Member
oh k no worries. he has been sitting in the hide right in the middle of the cage enclosure all day, which is 25 mid way up the wall so porbably 24 or so on the ground. its just a first time noob stress !
orientalis
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Checking temps
Hey mate.
Congrats on your new animal. Sounds like your giving him what he needs.
If you can afford yourself an Infrared Heat Gun (Tandy or electric store) All they are is a non contact laser beam which tells you the surface temp of many materials, metals, flesh, etc
Anyway, if you buy one of these you will be able to monitor temps everywhere in your enclosure, not just where the thermometer is.
Even your pythons temp.
All you need to remember is not to let him be housed in an enclosure that lets his temp get below 15 degrees celcius and above 45. (otherwise you'll end up with a sick snake)
If you provide an enclosure that has a cool end of around 24 and a hot spot of about 45, the snake will thermoregulate his temp.(around 28 to 33) Just adjust your heating until you have the desired conditions.
Keep cleaning everytime he passes, give fresh water atleast 2 to 3 times a week.(do not leave water in longer than 24 hours without changing it!!!)
When feeding, feed smaller items about two times a week to get his confidence up, try not to handle too much until he has settled in, you'll know when he's had enough. Then you could move on to a bigger feed once every 6 days until he's about 18 months, then 1 feed every 10 to 14.
Don't handle for the first 48 hours post feed.
Any problems, get on top of them straight away.(professionl advice)
With worming, you will need to do it 2 times about 12 days apart to break any cycle, along with sterilising the enclosure each time.
This is a simple procedure of placing worm out gel on your mouse or rat prior to feeding, but you need an accurate weight to be able to give the correct dosage.(then double check to make sure before administering)
Cheers
Have Fun
Hey mate.
Congrats on your new animal. Sounds like your giving him what he needs.
If you can afford yourself an Infrared Heat Gun (Tandy or electric store) All they are is a non contact laser beam which tells you the surface temp of many materials, metals, flesh, etc
Anyway, if you buy one of these you will be able to monitor temps everywhere in your enclosure, not just where the thermometer is.
Even your pythons temp.
All you need to remember is not to let him be housed in an enclosure that lets his temp get below 15 degrees celcius and above 45. (otherwise you'll end up with a sick snake)
If you provide an enclosure that has a cool end of around 24 and a hot spot of about 45, the snake will thermoregulate his temp.(around 28 to 33) Just adjust your heating until you have the desired conditions.
Keep cleaning everytime he passes, give fresh water atleast 2 to 3 times a week.(do not leave water in longer than 24 hours without changing it!!!)
When feeding, feed smaller items about two times a week to get his confidence up, try not to handle too much until he has settled in, you'll know when he's had enough. Then you could move on to a bigger feed once every 6 days until he's about 18 months, then 1 feed every 10 to 14.
Don't handle for the first 48 hours post feed.
Any problems, get on top of them straight away.(professionl advice)
With worming, you will need to do it 2 times about 12 days apart to break any cycle, along with sterilising the enclosure each time.
This is a simple procedure of placing worm out gel on your mouse or rat prior to feeding, but you need an accurate weight to be able to give the correct dosage.(then double check to make sure before administering)
Cheers
Have Fun
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