Gree Tree Frog husbandry - help please

[rvcasa]

Green Tree Frog husbandry - help please

I finally got a frog for my boy, a Green Tree Frog, an adult of unknown sex.


But unfortunately, after reading a dozen or so care sheets/PDFs etc. I'm more confused than ever!:?


There's a lot of contradiction, between license needed, not need, replace UV every 6 months or every 18 months, Tree frogs do not require high humidity levels, or do indeed, day temps 24C, or +33C instead? – Not to mention low wattage heat lamp and substrates etc.


I wonder what you all use on your frog enclosure?


My biggest concern is substrate and heat source.
I have tried a 50W infrared, but the air gets too dry and I'm concern the frog's skin also gets too dry, very quickly!?
Then I thought about a heat mat, but here the frame around the edge of enclosure would sit on the cable and masticate it and I'm not sure if it would heat up the glass bottom enough either (with approx. 2cm of water)


Also, regarding substrate, I thought about pebbles/gravel, but don't like the idea of washing it thoroughly weekly (as I have other animals to clean up to), together with a huge, huge log full of stumps and crevices.
I was hopping for a more practical/simple cage cleaning method, and was advised on (soaked) paper towel as substrate and a simple water dish to change daily!


I want something that would allow me to be away for work for a couple of days and not stress too much about it. Or, once on holidays, I could get my young nice to do it, if it's an easy enough job for her (for pocket money). So I may replace the log with a wide PVC pipe as per care sheets. (But I think I'd leave the brumelia in the pot...)



P.S. I almost forgot to mention the size of the glass cage: approx. 60x45x45, half of side walls are vents and there is also a mesh at the top w/ spaces for cords etc. so plenty of ventilation.



Many tanks in advance

 

[timantula]

any chance you could upload some pics???

 

[Chris1]

green tree frogs dont need high humidity, and just a water bowl that can be easily changed is fine.

dont forget to dechlorinate the water tho, i boil his water to remove the chlorine. (and let it cool before i put it in ofcourse)

as a heat source, i make a pine frame, run heat cord thru cup hooks and place a tile on top, then i put his bowl on that so for heat options he has warm tile or warm water.
(you could run a small wattaged cord thru the cord bits?)

his fave place to sleep during the day is the gap between the glass and the wood frame down the side of his tile.

as a substrate im using that brown brick stuff from bunnings that you soak in water, i think its coco peat?
that being said, he has terrible aim and gets hand fed to avoid him injesting any of his substrate.
ive heard of impactions from pebbles etc, sounds like a slow and painful death, something id rather never have to deal with.

i'll post a pic in a while, camera is charging.

 

[Jackrabbit]

the frogs don't really need any heating. they don't get it in the wild, mine don't get it anymore just places to hide and clean water. for my little ones I use a simple round saucer that gets changed every other day. They hide during the day, then when the lights go out they come out to play. if they are lucky they will get fed. (if I see them out)

I am using a tightly compacted fake grass as a substrate but still hand feed my frogs so I know how much they all get rather than find one or two getting fat while the others wither away.

I have one older frog that I haven't seen move from its position in the plant in the past 2 months. I know it is OK though as its angle in the middle of the plant is different, so it must only come out when we are all in bed then go back before we wake up.

good luck

 

[Chris1]

some pics of mine....

theyre very low maintenance, i might find a poo weekly in the heavier part of eating season, a big dry easy to pick up nugget, apart from that its water changes and a bit of glass cleaning.

 

[rvcasa]

...as a heat source, i make a pine frame, run heat cord thru cup hooks and place a tile on top, then i put his bowl on that so for heat options he has warm tile or warm water....

Great! And a big thank you for your time.
The caresheets mentions to warm up the water to 26C and air temp at least +20C.
But the IR light was warming up the air way too much before water was any near 22-24C.

My reptile's room can be a bit warm during the day and very cold at night, that's why I was concerned.
As the water was freezing a couple nights ago...

So the frame you built (genius by the way) covers only approx. half the tank or tile area and is slightly elevated and the other half is levelled w/ coco? Is this correct?
How warm does the water and tile get? I'd say the tile is warmer than water, right?
Thanks.

P.S. Love your plants, specially the 2 long branches! What are they and where did you get them? Cheers.

the frogs don't really need any heating. they don't get it in the wild, mine don't get it anymore just places to hide and clean water. for my little ones I use a simple round saucer that gets changed every other day. They hide during the day, then when the lights go out they come out to play. if they are lucky they will get fed. (if I see them out)I am using a tightly compacted fake grass as a substrate but still hand feed my frogs so I know how much they all get rather than find one or two getting fat while the others wither away.I have one older frog that I haven't seen move from its position in the plant in the past 2 months. I know it is OK though as its angle in the middle of the plant is different, so it must only come out when we are all in bed then go back before we wake up.good luck

Thanks for your tips.

Care sheets say they come from hot/tropical north etc. and need warmth, so I was a bit concerned.What type of hides to be used, like a reptile hide?




- - - Updated - - -


Also, I'm feeding live crickets (w/white powder sprinkled over the top) but my frog as not eaten anything for the last 3 days, is this a concern?

Someone as advised me to get a mist maker/fogger and although they're not expensive, I wonder if it's really a must?
(I was thinking using one for the days I'm away and cannot spray/mist by hand) what do you think?

Thanks

 

[Bluetongue1]

Forget the mist maker - it will cause problems for GTFs rather than solve them.

The need for heating or not is going to depend on the ambient temps around wherever the enclosure is located. Night temps should never be allowed to get below about 10[SUP]o[/SUP]C. Remember that these guys are often active on wet winter nights. If heating is required, an aquarium heater in a jar of water set at about 25[SUP]o[/SUP]C will provide ample warmth. Just cover he lid of the jar so the cage doesn’t get too humid and start to fog up. You may wish to use it only on very cold nights.

It may help to remove the jumping legs on feed crickets. Some individual frogs will actively pursue crickets and some will simply sit and wait until they come within range. Try feeding in the evening and don’t leave an uneaten cricket in the enclosure – they can bite your frog – thought usually not a problem because the frogs tend to perch out of reach.

Broad-leaved real plants are the best “hides” but plastic ones can be used. With plastic plants they tend to camp on the glass underneath draping leaves while with real plants they happily sit on the leaves.

Blue

 

[Chris1]

Just tested the temps, water is 26.4, tile is 33.
(ambient temp in my herp room is 22-23)

i think the branches are scribbly gum, i keep a hand saw in my car so i never miss out on good branches!
green bits were a great score from a kitchen things/knick knacky shop

and yes the heated half is raised and the other part leveled with coco.

So the frame you built (genius by the way) covers only approx. half the tank or tile area and is slightly elevated and the other half is levelled w/ coco? Is this correct?
How warm does the water and tile get? I'd say the tile is warmer than water, right?
Thanks.

P.S. Love your plants, specially the 2 long branches! What are they and where did you get them? Cheers.

 

[ozziepythons]

RVCASA,
If you want to put an infrared or other heating globe in a tree frog vivarium is MUST be covered by a light cage cover as I guarantee the frog will leap onto it sooner or later while its on and fry itself, and frog burns are horrible to treat.
Also GTFs like light humidity, a water source and the rest of the cage fairly dry as they get infections when kept in sodden wet cages, a common mistake lots of new frog owners make thinking they almost need an aquarium cos its a frog.

 

[rvcasa]

I'm on the road again, so just a shorty to tank you all for the replies.


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Just one more question: (actually, two)

How often should the cage be cleaned? (in the example of coco substrate)
(The previous owner used to scrub wash all pebbles and vines every week)

I'm trying to archive a fair uncomplicated method of substrate/cleaning, so in a few months down the track, my niece can 'house/pet sit' while I'm away. So maybe the paper towel might be a better option?!

Also, if frog has not eaten in +3 days when should I worry? (I've tried the crickets w/ out legs method, and hand fed, but no success so far)
I'm not sure how long they go w/out food but I imagine not as long as my python?

Thank you very much once again every one.


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