# DIY Enclosures!!



## pugsly (Mar 23, 2005)

To all those newbie?s out there don?t get sucked in to buying a vivarium from a pet store or reptile shop, as you may have noticed, the users well I would say majority have DIY enclosures and they are so easy to make.

Here is a list of equipment to make a 3 level reptile enclosure. Of course you can change it if you only want the one but this is the one I am building at the moment. All equipment can be found around the house or at your local Bunnings.

1. 1.8m x 1.2m of 3mm MDF ? Back = $15
2. 2 x 1.8 m x 0.6m of 16mm MDF ? Sides = $40
3. 4 x 1.2m of 16mm MDF ? Top, Bottom and Shelves = $75
4. 4 x 50cm 50mm x 50mm Pine @ $2 = $8
5. 6 x Locks - @ $4.50 = $27
6. 4 x 65mm Hinges @ $6 (about) = $24
7. 9.8m of 70mm Pine ? Doors - $20
8. 3 x Light Globes 60-100 Watt = $10
9. 3 x Lamp Holders - $12
10. 3 x Wall Plugs ? $8
11. Power Lead 10m of 10Amp 3 Core - $14
12. 3 x 1150mm x 475mm Perspex (3mm or 4.5mm) @ $40 (thereabout) =$120
13. 4 x TA2 Thermostats @ $27 = $108

Total cost for 3 enclosures = $480
Total Cost for 1 - 1.2m x 600mm x 600mm enclosure = $160

All you need to do now is screw a few things together, Glue it all, maybe give it a stain, and wire the lights and thermostat. Seriously takes no time at all what?s a day on the weekend hey! Then Bobs your Uncle! Compare that to your $700 pet store one. Just a suggestion!

I may have missed something so all those expeiriences herpers out there can add anything but this is the way to go!


----------



## pugsly (Mar 23, 2005)

ok diagram didnt turn out great once it resized email me if you want the proper one [email protected]


----------



## diamond_python (Mar 23, 2005)

If it is made out of MDF, you will need to seal it really well.


----------



## pugsly (Mar 23, 2005)

it doesnt have to be MDF can be ply or anything. but MDF comes in big sheets which can be cut, rather than joining up more of another material like pine so works out cheaper. But yes they can be sealed easy enough.


----------



## diamond_python (Mar 23, 2005)

> it doesnt have to be MDF can be ply or anything. but MDF comes in big sheets which can be cut, rather than joining up more of another material like pine so works out cheaper. But yes they can be sealed easy enough.



True. But I have been told by various people that MDF retains smell unless sealed properly. I finished one of my units today and it is out of pine and I sealed it well. The rest of mine will be built out of melamine. It is personal preference


----------



## pugsly (Mar 23, 2005)

yeah it is up to the individual, hadn't heard that about the MDF im going to use Ply anyway, a friend of mine has about 10 ply enclosures and there all good so thats the way im going but the post was just an easy option. send me some pics of ya enclosure if ya got any.

Whats Melamine?


----------



## diamond_python (Mar 24, 2005)

It is what most people prefer to use to build their enclosures from. I can't think of the right words to describe it. If you see it, you will kick yourself as you will know what it is, Guaranteed!! CHeck out your local bunnings and you will see what I mean......


----------



## BIGTOE (Mar 24, 2005)

I work at an Mdf factory - get HMR if you can (highly moisture resistant) it costs more and is heavier... but make sure you wear a dust mask when cutting this stuff it has formaldahide in it and the wood dust is carsonogenic! Ill see if I can find some of the warnings about this stuff and post it up for your benefit


----------



## keelow (Mar 24, 2005)

I second that with the dust mask, i use MDF everyday at work and it's nasty stuff.

I made my enclosure from it, works fine, but i painted mine inside and out with enamel and sealed the inside with a hard wearing Urethane varnish.


----------



## keelow (Mar 24, 2005)

I'm about to start project two and three, a 6x3x2 olive enclosure.
and a 3x5x2 enclosure for my MD.

the MDF box is being given to a friend, it's so heavy and due to the size it tends to sway when being moved.
I'm moving to QLD in a year and i don't want to take it.

The new ones will be built from pine frame and Ply screwed to it and a nice moulded front to hide the glass tracks.
if it works i'll be able to take them when i move without much trouble, takes alot of force to hurt ply wood

False top will be 3 inches under the real to hide wiring and probe thermostat. Kickers wont be as big.


----------



## _popp_ (Mar 24, 2005)

$480,you could allways get flat packs off me @ $200-$250 each per 4x2x2 enclosure in malemine,just screw together,put tracks in,wire it up &amp; your done.This is very easy n takes away the cutting &amp; muckin around of building from scratch.If theres any questions regarding flat packs contact me via pm or email [email protected] .


cheers popp


----------



## Greebo (Mar 24, 2005)

> Glue it all, maybe give it a stain, and wire the lights and thermostat


 This subject has been raised before. Wiring you own enclosures is not reccommended unless you are a qualified electrician.


----------



## _popp_ (Mar 24, 2005)

Thats a very good point greebs &amp; the reason why all my enclosures will be tagged by a licenced sparky.



cheers popp


----------



## hugsta (Mar 24, 2005)

If you use MDF you should use a MDF sealer/primer before painting. It will seal up the MDF so the paint won't get "sucked up" by the board. I would also use an oil based gloss for inside (IMO) as this way water and urine etc won't soak through.


----------



## pugsly (Mar 24, 2005)

na i got my uncle to do mine and he showed me how to do it, its so simple anyone can do it. i can put a diagram up for wiring if ya like. but yes of course an electrician is ideal.

Love the enclosure Keelow magnificent.

480 would be for three enclosures with everthing you need, $160 for 1, the wood alone would be half that.

Dont cut the wood yourselves, firstly it comes in sheets of 1.2 x 600 hence the size i made it. secondly big sheets can be cut for like a buck at bunnings all you do is screw it and seal it!

Good luck


----------



## peterescue (Mar 24, 2005)

Hey Bigtoe. There was a thing on the radio on the weekend about history of the timber mill where you are. Interesting
On the MDF we donot use it here anymore and I can veto working with it where it is brought in and used by contractors.
It has to be sealed(painted on all surfaces) and when we remove it we arent allowed to cut it up. I am hoping that eventually it will not even be accepted for use by contractors that do work here.


----------



## hugsta (Mar 24, 2005)

I make all mine out of melamine or pine. Melamine lately as there is a lot less work involved.


----------



## Greebo (Mar 24, 2005)

> its so simple anyone can do it


 Insurance companies tend to disagree with this.


----------



## pugsly (Mar 24, 2005)

lol yeah probably, all I'm saying is that it is not difficult at all Brown wire to Brown Screw, Earth Screw to Earth etc. But yes I fully endorse using an electrician were available.

As with the MDF i didnt mean it to cause a stir, I am using Ply with mine, which doesn't need to be sealed just a nice stain.


----------



## hugsta (Mar 24, 2005)

You should also make sure to seal up all the joints with sikaflex or the like. stops water/urines etc. getting into the joints and rotting the timber.


----------



## pugsly (Mar 24, 2005)

Good Point Hugsta. We dont want the top two collapsing on the bottom enclosure! That stuff works well too


----------



## hugsta (Mar 24, 2005)

It sure does pugsly, it holds your car windscreen in place.


----------



## Retic (Mar 24, 2005)

I think that MDF is totally banned in the States as it is so bad. I do use it but get it all cut by a loacl company so I minimise contact with the dust. 
Melamine is better for the health but not as forgiving as MDF when working with it.


----------



## BROWNS (Mar 24, 2005)

Personally i think you can't go past melamine,no need to seal or lacker or is that lacquer,i use pegboard at the back for good ventilation and heat tape with glass siliconed over the top as a heat source,seal all joins with silicon or silastic so no urine etc can seep in as Hugsta said.

I'm about to have a heap of new enclosures built and they'll all be made the same as the ones pictured but with a good inch kick board at the front which the plastic runners will sit in so they hopefully don't get crapped on as they sometimes do without them and just some nice wood to make a tidy frame but make sure you can still lift the glass out :wink: I work on approx $100 per enclosure for materials maybe a litlle more then come thermostats etc but i run up to 6-8 enclosures from the same thermostat,works well for me...hope this helps a little and here's a pic of how they look but new ones will have a kickborad so i may make a bit wider frame for looks!!!


----------



## farmdog (Mar 24, 2005)

> Dont cut the wood yourselves, firstly it comes in sheets of 1.2 x 600 hence the size i made it. secondly big sheets can be cut for like a buck at bunnings all you do is screw it and seal it!


I wouldn't cut it at bunning thier as rough as guts a lot of cabinet makers would cut the sheets better and cleaner for a small fee, reasons being is that a good cabinet maker will have an accurate table saw with fairly sharp blade that will give a clean cut.
Me personally would just use a circular saw as I'm a chippie's apprentice and any one willing to use a circular saw I recommend you use a straight edge to get the STRAIGHT clean cut.


----------



## hugsta (Mar 24, 2005)

I agree farmdog, but for those that don't have the means to do so Bunnings is a great alternative for a cheap price.


----------



## keelow (Mar 24, 2005)

and don't cut the extension lead under the wood your cutting like our trainee did last week.

Lucky we have breakers. scared the SHIZNIT out of him


----------



## farmdog (Mar 24, 2005)

> and don't cut the extension lead under the wood your cutting like our trainee did last week.


I cut the lead off a power saw when I started my chippie apprenticeship


----------



## BROWNS (Mar 24, 2005)

For those of us not super handy with a circular saw get one with a laser light ones,helps you cut a perfect line too easy!!!


----------



## keelow (Mar 24, 2005)

lol i love that add, WHAT HAPPENS IF THE SAW MOVES... the light moves to.


----------



## keelow (Mar 24, 2005)

My uncle was a Joiner back home in england, the guy could cut a straight line in timber with a butter knife... only wish he'd taught me the skills.


----------



## Retic (Mar 24, 2005)

Yeah that was when we had joiners, today it seems if it can't be done with a machine it can't be done.


----------



## farmdog (Mar 24, 2005)

> For those of us not super handy with a circular saw get one with a laser light ones,helps you cut a perfect line too easy!!!


 even if you are not steady with a circular saw by setting up a straight edge you can run the saw base up against the straight edge ( as long as you fix the straight edge with either clamps or screw to the sheet) you can't go wrong if you want more info I'll try to set up a few pics on Saturday so you can see what I mean


----------



## hugsta (Mar 24, 2005)

Get Bunnings to do it....for a few bucks it saves a hell of a lot of trouble.


----------



## snakes_alive (Mar 25, 2005)

I think I done the right thing married a handyman.   

I had the tank and jim made the frame around it and the stand, it was for fish but quickly became a home for my baby bluies


----------



## snakes_alive (Mar 25, 2005)

than I brought a larger whip, LOL.


----------



## westhamsc (Mar 25, 2005)

> Get Bunnings to do it....for a few bucks it saves a hell of a lot of trouble.


and get a BAD cut every cut they have done has gone on an angle so now i do it myself


----------

