# powerboards



## Reptilia (Mar 13, 2013)

Hey guys/gals,

Can you run 2x 12way power boards off 1 double adaptor?
or can you piggy back powerboards?. I'm using alot of very low wattage heaters and lights (under 2400 watts). Can't really get anymore powerpoints installed either.

Cheers.


----------



## Snowman (Mar 13, 2013)

You can. It works. It's also very dangerous. Don't do it!


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 13, 2013)

A responsible electrician would say no to piggy backing but that being said a single outlet is capable of around 2400 watts output if required. Piggy backing increases the chance of a high resistance joint which in turn heats up making the resistance higher causing more heat and potentially a fire.


----------



## Reptilia (Mar 13, 2013)

does this apply to both adaptor to powerboard and powerboard to powerboard?


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 13, 2013)

If i had to do it I would use really good quality power boards but it is not a recommended practice. The biggest danger is overloading and it doesn't sound like you would be doing that.


----------



## Snowman (Mar 13, 2013)

http://www.mfb.vic.gov.au/Media/doc...fety-5979159b-1e53-4ea2-8f20-72878f4b2e7b.pdf


----------



## J-A-X (Mar 13, 2013)

Im sorry reptilia but you seem to be missing the point that two users have now pointed out . . . . *it is not a recommended practice 

*the outlet may well be capable of putting out 2400w. but as Andynic has pointed out, the powerboard is your weak link. i had ONE 1200 watt heater (name brand) running at about 3/4 output plugged into a name brand powerboard, it was the only thing plugged into it and i was only using it as i needed the extra length. and after and hour or so i noticed a distinct smell or burning plastic... the powerboard had warped and was horribly distorted / melted.


why take the chance......... (i didnt even know they make 12way powerboards )


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 13, 2013)

Snowman said:


> I don't see overload as the biggest danger. I see fire as the biggest danger. Overload would just trip the breaker. The heat, bad connections and number of joins is the major problem.


Yeah fire is the biggest problem but if quality boards are used the fire danger imo comes from an overloaded powerboard. The outlet is rated at 10 amps and the circuit protection should be 20 amps and usually will not trip right on 20 amps. A cheap low quality powerboard imo is far greater risk of catching fire.


----------



## Snowman (Mar 13, 2013)

Dangers of using double adaptors adaptors in your workplace


----------



## Grogshla (Mar 13, 2013)

interesting thread I will be thinking more about my current set up and how to reduce it.


----------



## Snowman (Mar 13, 2013)

andynic07 said:


> Yeah fire is the biggest problem but if quality boards are used the fire danger imo comes from an overloaded powerboard. The outlet is rated at 10 amps and the circuit protection should be 20 amps and usually will not trip right on 20 amps. A cheap low quality powerboard imo is far greater risk of catching fire.


That's rubbish. Any powerboard has the same risks. But would I know. Only became a sparky in 1995...


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 13, 2013)

Snowman said:


> That's rubbish. Any powerboard has the same risks. But would I know. Only became a sparky in 1995...


I started my apprenticeship in 95 so yes you do have 4 years up on me but I do quite regularly work with high resistance joints working for Energex.


----------



## J-A-X (Mar 13, 2013)

Go to your seperate corners boys, or at the very least agree to disagree........

you both have valuable QUALIFIED input to provide,


----------



## Snowman (Mar 13, 2013)

Also it's the leads not plugged in properly that become a massive hazard. The sheer weight often stops them from making a good connection. We all know that poor connections create heat and also lead to fires. 

Anyways. One powerboard per outlet. Always check them for heat and make sure you plugs are in properly. If you can't do it with one power board. You need to get a sparky out to put more outlets in for you.


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 13, 2013)

Snowman said:


> That's rubbish. Any powerboard has the same risks. But would I know. Only became a sparky in 1995...


My question to you is if each powerboard and each outlet of each powerboard is within its rating and each has a good solid connection where does the heat come from to create the fire?


----------



## Snowman (Mar 13, 2013)

J-A-X said:


> Go to your seperate corners boys, or at the very least agree to disagree........
> 
> you both have valuable QUALIFIED input to provide,


Well I've nearly finished my electrical engineering degree. So really I'm better


----------



## Snowman (Mar 13, 2013)

andynic07 said:


> My question to you is if each powerboard and each outlet of each powerboard is within its rating and each has a good solid connection where does the heat come from to create the fire?


In an ideal world there would be no heat. However any of the state fire brigades will tell you that we certainly do not live in such a world.


----------



## Reptilia (Mar 13, 2013)

Thanks for the input guys. I'm using these powerboards currently.


Edit by Jax: sorry no links so I've posted the pic instead


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 13, 2013)

Snowman said:


> In an ideal world there would be no heat. However any of the state fire brigades will tell you that we certainly do not live in such a world.


Like I said a lot of what I said is my opinion by applying my electrical knowledge even if it may be eclipsed by others with electrical degrees and I really think that a lot of fire men see the ill affects of either poor quality power boards or as you pointed out a powerboard that is piggy backed and the weight of the plugs has made a bad connection. I am in agreeance with you about not using multiple powerboards is the best way to go but wanted to also point out that it could be done if done in the correct manner.


----------



## J-A-X (Mar 13, 2013)

Okay sparkys .... 
The specs on that powerboard are as follows :
12 outlets with 10A with 450J surge protection and RFI filtering, 

What does this mean in reptile world application. 

For example: Can you SAFELY plug in 6 x 100 w heating globes and 6 x 15 w fluoro lights ? 

Don't get too technical it's late and my brain is likely to implode !


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 13, 2013)

Reptilia said:


> Thanks for the input guys. I'm using these powerboards currently.
> 
> 
> Edit by Jax: sorry no links so I've posted the pic instead


I guess it must be rated for that many outlets and HPM is usually a very reliable brand but I think anymore than 5 outlets seems excessive. The main thing a guess is that you have the plugs pressed in properly and you do not use it in excess of the ratings.


----------



## Reptilia (Mar 13, 2013)

The lights would be on a seperate board if using a thermostat for the 100 watt heaters.


----------



## J-A-X (Mar 13, 2013)

How many 100w heaters ?


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 13, 2013)

J-A-X said:


> Okay sparkys ....
> The specs on that powerboard are as follows :
> 12 outlets with 10A with 450J surge protection and RFI filtering,
> 
> ...


The 10 amps is your limiting factor that will limit you to (240 volt x 10 amp) 2400 Watts so 6 x 100 W = 600 W plus 6 x 15 W = 90 W therefore giving you 690 W total not counting the slight usage from thermostats this should be fine.


----------



## Reptilia (Mar 13, 2013)

J-A-X said:


> How many 100w heaters ?[
> 
> (12 heaters) easily up to 150watts each. Not 200 watts though, as andy said the thermo can use a few watts (12x200 = 2400 + thermo).
> Lights and heaters can only be ran together if you are using no thermostat. Depending on what thermostat you were using , the lights would be constantly flicking on and off when the thermostat reaches and drops below the desired temperature.


----------



## Snowman (Mar 13, 2013)

Reptilia said:


> J-A-X said:
> 
> 
> > How many 100w heaters ?[
> ...


----------



## Reptilia (Mar 14, 2013)

yeah they can run off the same supply, but you wouldn't want them to. (for reptiles, it doesnt make sense to do so.). unless... you are using the 'no thermostat method' and have a timer on the board.


----------



## Cougar2007 (Mar 14, 2013)

Mate I'm not a sparky......don't pretend to know much about current and amps etc. I am a firefighter and I know a thing or two about electrical fires and houses burnt to the ground cause of just 1 power board let alone ganging them. If I had my way the only plug would be ones in the wall. Please guys please, don't double up on power boards or double adptors and don't over load them. I really don't want to turn up and have to hose your herp collection away cause of a power board. You might guess by now how much I hate power boards.

People have no idea about how many times we are called out to houses with only a small fire cause by those evil things its only the big ones that make the news. Hardwire your enclosures, use proper rated switches, breakers etc etc. what's a few bucks extra when it could be your herps or worse your own life at risk.

Please re read what was said. It is not recommended. It will turn stuff on but no it won't work properly.

If you want to see some pics I'd be happy to post them. They are not pretty. Might change your mind about power boards.


----------



## Snowman (Mar 14, 2013)

Reptilia said:


> yeah they can run off the same supply, but you wouldn't want them to. (for reptiles, it doesnt make sense to do so.). unless... you are using the 'no thermostat method' and have a timer on the board.


No too sure what you are talking about? I run everything off the same supply and it works fine. 
Wall socket > timer> power board:
>lights
>thermostat >heater


----------



## Snowman (Mar 14, 2013)

Cougar2007 said:


> Mate I'm not a sparky......don't pretend to know much about current and amps etc. I am a firefighter and I know a thing or two about electrical fires and houses burnt to the ground cause of just 1 power board let alone ganging them. If I had my way the only plug would be ones in the wall. Please guys please, don't double up on power boards or double adptors and don't over load them. I really don't want to turn up and have to hose your herp collection away cause of a power board. You might guess by now how much I hate power boards.
> 
> People have no idea about how many times we are called out to houses with only a small fire cause by those evil things its only the big ones that make the news. Hardwire your enclosures, use proper rated switches, breakers etc etc. what's a few bucks extra when it could be your herps or worse your own life at risk.
> 
> ...



thank you!!!!!! 
Well said.


----------



## Reptilia (Mar 14, 2013)

Snowman said:


> No too sure what you are talking about? I run everything off the same supply and it works fine.
> Wall socket > timer> power board:
> >lights
> >thermostat >heater



You are correct. you can do it that way but i meant...

wall socket > thermostat > powerboard > 12 heaters (this is what I was talking about)
wall socket > timer > powerboard > 12 lights or heaters or combination (this is your setup with your heater/s on thermostat/s)
wall socket > powerboard > thermostats or timers > heaters or lights
wall socket > timer > thermostat > powerboard > heaters.

or you can even go...
wall socket > light/moonlight controllers > thermostat > powerboard > heaters.
wall socket > light/moonlight controllers > powerboard > lights.


----------



## Cougar2007 (Mar 14, 2013)

http://www.examiner.com.au/news/loc...d-malfunction-causes-450000-fire/2066267.aspx

I rest my case


----------



## Reptilia (Mar 14, 2013)

Cougar, Is it usually overloading that causes these fires or old outdated or poor quality equipment?


----------



## Marzzy (Mar 14, 2013)

I've got 24 sockets running off a double adapter to two 12 socket powerboards single outlet runs fine though this seem to happen http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVF3iC_voyU


----------



## phantomreptiles (Mar 14, 2013)

I'm now very worried. I run four, x6 power boards from ONE wall socket! (Thermostats, some 24/7, some on/off (Old house, so only one socket per room. Rental property, so can't change much.....best course of action...????


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Reptilia (Mar 14, 2013)

Phantomreptiles maybe just get 2x 12 way powerboards (1 on each outlet of the wall socket).


----------



## phantomreptiles (Mar 14, 2013)

Thanks Reptilia
Ok, so the best thing to do is get one timer/thermostat and then plug in..???
I currently have several of each plugged into extension cords & power boards (reject shop) we are talking 5w's to 100w's re heating - lights, ceramics, mats and cords...as I said only ONE socket to power the room....,,and I am about to add in timers....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## phantomreptiles (Mar 14, 2013)

I think this is a very important thread, and we all need to make sure we are not placing ourselves, others or our collections in danger... Lets all check our power points, get tips from experts, and have an evacuation plan for ALL of our family members, (I mean don't forget our scaleys)



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fourexes (Mar 14, 2013)

phantomreptiles said:


> I think this is a very important thread, and we all need to make sure we are not placing ourselves, others or our collections in danger... Lets all check our power points, get tips from experts, and have an evacuation plan for ALL of our family members, (I mean don't forget our scaleys)
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I think the biggest problem is it usually happens when your not home. Best course of action has been explained, not to overload or gang power boards & adapters. You could look at getting a sparky to add more power points? There seems to be plenty of them on the site maybe one is close by. 
Money really shouldn't be an issue when we're talking about the safety of an already expensive collection, your family,your home & your livelihood. 

I was actually considering getting a safety box made up with a mini CB & RCD with ELP just to put in my herp room so if anything does happen the fault _should_ stop there. Any comments on this from the sparkies? Maybe theres a market for domestic safety boxes or maybe such a product already exists?


----------



## Snowman (Mar 14, 2013)

fourexes said:


> I was actually considering getting a safety box made up with a mini CB & RCD with ELP just to put in my herp room so if anything does happen the fault _should_ stop there. Any comments on this from the sparkies? Maybe theres a market for domestic safety boxes or maybe such a product already exists?



Yeah they already exist. Been around for a long time. Usually an orange box with 4 outlets and an earth leakage breaker on it. They use them on site a bit. 
I fear it's a waste of money for your herp room though. Your heaters and lights generally are not earthed and as the name suggests it trips on leakage to earth. All you can really do is be vigalent and keep an eye on things. And follow the recommendation of not overloading or piggy backing. 

A smoke alarm in the herp room never hurts though.


----------



## Cougar2007 (Mar 14, 2013)

Reptilia said:


> Cougar, Is it usually overloading that causes these fires or old outdated or poor quality equipment?



In all honesty, it can be both or neither. I've seen heaps just catch fire for no good reason. A guy came out and trained us and its to do with how good or bad the contact points are in the plugs as someone said earlier. The cheapies are worse. But it's not hard to hardwire a couple of in line switches to you vivs. That way it's all safe. You can also buy inline timer switches. It makes a neat safe job every time


----------



## Ramsayi (Mar 14, 2013)

What's this wall socket thingy everyone keeps writing about? Power points people, power points!


----------



## Snowman (Mar 14, 2013)

Ramsayi said:


> What's this wall socket thingy everyone keeps writing about? Power points people, power points!


Hahaha. I think AS3000 only refer to them outlets now


----------



## Ramsayi (Mar 14, 2013)

Snowman said:


> Hahaha. I think AS3000 only refer to them outlets now



Haha well us common people,at least the ones without a copy of the Australian standards have always called them power points,unless of course you live in America.


----------



## Ramsayi (Mar 14, 2013)

Snowman said:


> A smoke alarm in the herp room never hurts though.



Speaking of smoke alarms does the standard insist on hard wired types? Reason I ask is that I looked at the ones with a 10 year battery life,non hard wired and given that is about the life expectancy of smoke alarms is about 10 years they would be an easier solution.


----------



## Snowman (Mar 14, 2013)

Ramsayi said:


> Haha well us common people,at least the ones without a copy of the Australian standards have always called them power points,unless of course you live in America.



Like a "power point" presentation


----------



## Ramsayi (Mar 14, 2013)

Snowman said:


> Like a "power point" presentation



Nah, power points were here long before Power point !


----------



## Snowman (Mar 14, 2013)

Ramsayi said:


> Nah, power points were here long before Power point !



hahahaha


----------



## -Peter (Mar 14, 2013)

Part of the snake rescue things is the occasional call from Police or Fire to a private residence where the owner is not available and we get to remove any live snakes and lizards that are still there after the fire has been put out. They are always electrical faults. Overloaded GPOs, powerboards etc.


----------



## Umbral (Mar 14, 2013)

If in doubt or there are conflicting stories, play it safe IMO.


----------



## fourexes (Mar 14, 2013)

Snowman said:


> Yeah they already exist. Been around for a long time. Usually an orange box with 4 outlets and an earth leakage breaker on it. They use them on site a bit.
> I fear it's a waste of money for your herp room though. Your heaters and lights generally are not earthed and as the name suggests it trips on leakage to earth. All you can really do is be vigalent and keep an eye on things. And follow the recommendation of not overloading or piggy backing.
> 
> A smoke alarm in the herp room never hurts though.



I use those boxes at work and they don't provide ELP as far as I know, as most of my power tools don't run an earth, however, all of my appliances in the herp room run earths from socket to the nearest metal object to what's being run, therefore if something shorts and goes live without throwing anything, it will still throw out if you touch it. 

I already have a smoke alarm in there. I'm fairly safety sam as far as electrickery goes, I'm a welder, so I'm well aware of it's potential. 

Also to Rams, as nobody else has answered, I believe it's standard to have hard wired units in new houses but installing to old houses is your choice.


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 14, 2013)

fourexes said:


> I use those boxes at work and they don't provide ELP as far as I know, as most of my power tools don't run an earth, however, all of my appliances in the herp room run earths from socket to the nearest metal object to what's being run, therefore if something shorts and goes live without throwing anything, it will still throw out if you touch it.
> 
> I already have a smoke alarm in there. I'm fairly safety sam as far as electrickery goes, I'm a welder, so I'm well aware of it's potential.
> 
> Also to Rams, as nobody else has answered, I believe it's standard to have hard wired units in new houses but installing to old houses is your choice.


A lot of power tools that are used are now double insulated and therefore do not require an earth. The orange boxes that Snowman described does sound a lot like the ones we use at work which do provide elp , saying that I have not seen them or yours so I could not say with certainty that they are or are not elp .


----------



## Snowman (Mar 14, 2013)

andynic07 said:


> A lot of power tools that are used are now double insulated and therefore do not require an earth. The orange boxes that Snowman described does sound a lot like the ones we use at work which do provide elp , saying that I have not seen them or yours so I could not say with certainty that they are or are not elp .



Thanks Andy. Glad someone has a clue. 

Earth leakage can trip on an unbalanced load as well as the 30mA to earth. So can still be a good idea to use with double insulated power tools incase you cut or nick the lead etc... I know on site everything has to be pluged into an outlet with an RCD and the only power boards allowed are these orange boxes.
Here is a pic of an elp box.


----------



## fourexes (Mar 14, 2013)

Snowman said:


> Thanks Andy. Glad someone has a clue.



electricians and attitude... you're definitely trained to be special. Andy is also an electrician which is why he 'has a clue'. Don't forget just as I couldn't come and perform your job for a day you couldn't perform mine either. 

I did mention I use one myself, I trust it with my life but still don't become complacent like many do. I was just having a discussion with someone about double insulated power tools and I don't understand. Perhaps instead of demeaning people you could explain a bit more about it.... I thought perhaps that's where this thread was going. 

I've only just converted from fuse wire to breakers in my house, obviously I'm not a sparky and don't get trained every year to keep up to date with everything new, as with all of us who aren't sparkies believe it or not.

I know as a tradesman myself when I try to teach someone something I usually emphasise the 'why it is so' rather than 'this is how it is'.

I'm not trying to be nasty, just trying to learn.


----------



## Snowman (Mar 14, 2013)

fourexes said:


> electricians and attitude... you're definitely trained to be special. Andy is also an electrician which is why he 'has a clue'. Don't forget just as I couldn't come and perform your job for a day you couldn't perform mine either.
> 
> I did mention I use one myself, I trust it with my life but still don't become complacent like many do. I was just having a discussion with someone about double insulated power tools and I don't understand. Perhaps instead of demeaning people you could explain a bit more about it.... I thought perhaps that's where this thread was going.
> 
> ...



Wasn't my intention to sound demeaning. I was just frustrated that you said you use those boxes at work and they do not provide ELP. They are current operated ELCB which we call RCD's.


----------



## Snowman (Mar 14, 2013)

WHY IT IS SO....

Current-operated ELCBs are generally known as Residual-current devices (RCD). These also protect against earth leakage. Both circuit conductors (supply and return) are run through a sensing coil; any imbalance of the currents means the magnetic field does not perfectly cancel. The device detects the imbalance and trips the contact.
.
When the term ELCB is used it usually means a voltage-operated device. Similar devices that are current operated are called residual-current devices. However, some companies use the term ELCB to distinguish high sensitivity current operated 3 phase devices that trip in the milliamp range from traditional 3 phase ground fault devices that operate at much higher currents
The supply coil, the neutral coil and the search coil all wound on a common transformer core.
.
On a healthy circuit the same current passes through the phase coil, the load and return back through the neutral coil. Both the phase and the neutral coils are wound in such a way that they will produce an opposing magnetic flux. With the same current passing through both coils, their magnetic effect will cancel out under a healthy circuit condition.
.
In a situation when there is fault or a leakage to earth in the load circuit, or anywhere between the load circuit and the output connection of the RCB circuit, the current returning through the neutral coil has been reduced. Then the magnetic flux inside the transformer core is not balanced anymore. The total sum of the opposing magnetic flux is no longer zero. This net remaining flux is what we call a residual flux.
.
The periodically changing residual flux inside the transformer core crosses path with the winding of the search coil. This action produces an electromotive force (e.m.f.) across the search coil. An electromotive force is actually an alternating voltage. The induced voltage across the search coil produces a current inside the wiring of the trip circuit. It is this current that operates the trip coil of the circuit breaker. Since the trip current is driven by the residual magnetic flux (the resulting flux, the net effect between both fluxes) between the phase and the neutral coils*,* _it is called the residual current devise_.
*.
*
With a circuit breaker incorporated as part of the circuit, the assembled system is called residual current circuit breaker (RCCB) or residual current devise (RCD). The incoming current has to pass through the circuit breaker first before going to the phase coil. The return neutral path passes through the second circuit breaker pole. During tripping when a fault is detected, both the phase and neutral connection is isolated.
.


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Speaking of high current faults and being complacent*

This is what happened to me at work about 2 years ago because I was so confident in my ability to not make a mistake that I didn't factor in the equipment failure aspect. This is a fuse unit that was feeding a block of offices that had a blown fuse and it should have been a quick change of fuse but the fuse holder developed a fault.


----------



## J-A-X (Mar 14, 2013)

See kiddies, this is why you go to school, to learn important stuff ! It stops you unintentionally burning your house down because you stuck to many high powered 'things' in your power point/outlet..... thingy ! 


Seriously though, Thanks Snowman. While it does take a bit of reading its nice to see members take the time to make sure the rest of us have more of an understanding of something that could potentially saves lives.


----------



## J-A-X (Mar 14, 2013)

OUCH AndyNic ! i bet the air was a little bit blue after that one... did you suffer any long term injury from that ?

i kind of looks like you had a latex glove on (please tell me that is a melted latex glove and not skin :shock: )


----------



## Firepac (Mar 14, 2013)

Great thread, very informative.


----------



## Snowman (Mar 14, 2013)

andynic07 said:


> This is what happened to me at work about 2 years ago because I was so confident in my ability to not make a mistake that I didn't factor in the equipment failure aspect. This is a fuse unit that was feeding a block of offices that had a blown fuse and it should have been a quick change of fuse but the fuse holder developed a fault.


Very nasty Andy! 
I have to do a bit with 33kv and it just scares the crap out of me!


----------



## fourexes (Mar 14, 2013)

Thanks snowman I appreciate your time. It has explained a lot more than people I have spoken with, sparkies included. Also thanks for not taking my post the wrong way & apologies if I took yours the wrong way.

Andynic I spoke with a 'technician' the other day that was telling me he has been electrocuted over 14 times. I told him perhaps it's time you considered a new career... Accidents happen, just not over ten times lol. That looks more than painful. Bet it won't happen again


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 14, 2013)

J-A-X said:


> OUCH AndyNic ! i bet the air was a little bit blue after that one... did you suffer any long term injury from that ?
> 
> i kind of looks like you had a latex glove on (please tell me that is a melted latex glove and not skin :shock: )


Fortunately no long term injuries and no skin grafts required. We usually have three pairs of gloves on , one cotton pair for sweat absorbtion then a rubber insulated pair and finally a leather pair for mechanical protection and I was wearing them on my right hand which I used for closing the fuse unit and that was my left hand that was about a metre away from the fuse and that is my skin coming off.


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 14, 2013)

Snowman said:


> Very nasty Andy!
> I have to do a bit with 33kv and it just scares the crap out of me!


One flash and your ash. We had a guy at work about four weeks ago burn one arm off at the elbow and the other at the shoulder working live on the 11KV lines, it was lucky that he didn't die.


----------



## J-A-X (Mar 14, 2013)

andynic07 said:


> Fortunately no long term injuries and no skin grafts required. We usually have three pairs of gloves on , one cotton pair for sweat absorbtion then a rubber insulated pair and finally a leather pair for mechanical protection and I was wearing them on my right hand which I used for closing the fuse unit and that was my left hand that was about a metre away from the fuse and that is my skin coming off.



i'm now cringing !! 


I'm glad you suffered no long term affects from it, but i bet the short term suffering was anything but fun ~


i tend to live by the '2 seconds to late' theory, 

"2 seconds can be the difference between........ " 


Its all these sorts of things that fuel my concerns when people misguidedly say, 'you can wire it yourself' etc etc. They really have very little idea of what can happen. I know guys that do the High voltage work from helicopters and man, are they in a league of their own,


----------



## Cougar2007 (Mar 14, 2013)

Reptilia said:


> Cougar, Is it usually overloading that causes these fires or old outdated or poor quality equipment?



Honestly it is a bit of both but more often its cheap equipment. Those $2 powerboards are plain and downright dangerous. They create masses of heat and plastic and heat will = fire more often than not eventually. They have low grade wire and connections internally and that's what causes faults. Also overloading is common. Unfortunately usually I o ly see it when it is a smouldering heap so often it's hard to know exactly what was plugged I to it. We got called to a fish tank on fire one day. He had 14 4point powerboards inline tuning his pumps lights etc. I keep marine fish and I get the has sell of wiring. He learnt te hard way. It burnt out and cracked his $5000 10ft tank and boiled thousands of dollars worth of fish. They weren't overloaded. The owner just suffered from an overload of stupidity. The sparkles will explain better than I about the way they generate heat but basically it's in the tightness of the joins and not the actual load per say.


----------



## Cougar2007 (Mar 14, 2013)

J-A-X said:


> i'm now cringing !!
> 
> 
> I'm glad you suffered no long term affects from it, but i bet the short term suffering was anything but fun ~
> ...



Jax we often say. We wish we could take them on a callout and see first hand what happens when you "wire it yourself"


----------



## greendoubt (Mar 22, 2013)

andynic07 said:


> This is what happened to me...



nice one! i can't not picture electricity shooting into your fingertips, like some kind of reverse emperor palpatine.

this thread's been interesting and eye-opening.


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 22, 2013)

greendoubt said:


> nice one! i can't not picture electricity shooting into your fingertips, like some kind of reverse emperor palpatine.
> 
> this thread's been interesting and eye-opening.


Haha yeah not sure about the shooting of electricity but I was definitely engulfed by a fireball, all the front of my jacket was blackened. Saying that my mate that was caught on the high voltage did have "lightning coming out of his fingers" by all reports from everyone around.


----------



## dr_juggalo (Mar 22, 2013)

andynic07 said:


> My question to you is if each powerboard and each outlet of each powerboard is within its rating and each has a good solid connection where does the heat come from to create the fire?


the issue is that if your piggybacking, then it is not within the load requirement of the outlet. That will be where the heat comes from.
I just set up a load centre that runs around 12 double pole outlets. But this can be a very expensive project and not recommended unless you are qualified as a sparky. Much safer as you have each circuit and outlet protected within the limits and will never heat up to the poin of the powerboards.

But have you never wondered why fire fighters hate the xmas period. It is due to people piggy backing their powerboards and double adapters.


----------



## Grogshla (Mar 22, 2013)

Yeah it is crazy around the holiday period. 
I remember our place had really old wiring and only 1 outlet in the room where I had my computer gear and reptiles.
I remember seeing green electricity coming out of the outlet once. Not a good thing at all.


----------



## andynic07 (Mar 22, 2013)

dr_juggalo said:


> the issue is that if your piggybacking, then it is not within the load requirement of the outlet. That will be where the heat comes from.
> I just set up a load centre that runs around 12 double pole outlets. But this can be a very expensive project and not recommended unless you are qualified as a sparky. Much safer as you have each circuit and outlet protected within the limits and will never heat up to the poin of the powerboards.
> 
> But have you never wondered why fire fighters hate the xmas period. It is due to people piggy backing their powerboards and double adapters.


Yes mate it was a facetious question because as stated in the question "within ratings" and "good connections" there would be no excessive heat source, we have discussed piggybacking further up the thread and yes I am a sparky. A good solid connection does not cause excessive heat and it is usually when the excessive piggyback connections weight turns one of the connections into a bad connection or there is a cheap powerboard with a loose connection causing the excessive heat. It would take a lot of fairy lights to overload a 10 amp power outlet.


----------



## dr_juggalo (Mar 22, 2013)

Guessing you haven't seen the crazy stuff they do. I'm a sparky also but I'm a switchy not domestic, but my friends are firefighters and they show me photos of the things that people do.
Also most people go the cheap option unfortunately when it comes to electrical appliances


----------



## ronhalling (Mar 23, 2013)

Hey Reptilia, after reading this thread yesterday i spoke to a m8 of mine who does industrial and domestic electrical work and he said that there was a power board available at some electrical wholesale places that has 4 outlets and inbuilt capacitor, it was originaly designed for those people that do huge xmas light displays and tend to overload power boards and adapters, he said they are not cheap but neither is a house, they are (according to him) around the $200 mark, i have not used them coz if i need more power points i just buy them and my m8 installs them for me for a couple of beers, one or more of the sparkies here might be able to give more info on them coz i was talking to him on the mobile and had to keep it short so some details may not have been relayed effectively..................................Ron


----------

