# [urgent] Help Please!



## Sabien (Mar 28, 2017)

Hey all, last week on Thursday I bought a beardie and stumpy, both 8 and 10 months old, I was wondering how many crickets I would feed them. Do I feed daily or every second day, and how many would I put in? I heard the stumpy likes fruit and veg so I put cut up grapes in the tank and she eats them and sometimes strawberries. I have researched about how to handle feed cleaning bathing etc but haven't found much information on how much to feed and when. Please help as I want my lizards to be happy and not starve.


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## Smittiferous (Mar 28, 2017)

I'd offer them as much as they'd be wanting to eat. When I feed my beardies live insects I put a big handful of bugs in a tub, put the dragon in there and let him chomp away until he loses interest, then put him back in his enclosure. 

Regarding fruit, veg and other non-live foods, observe them after putting some in the food bowl, if they eat it all, add a little more, continue to do so until they lose interest. Take note of how much you add in total and next time round just offer that amount up-front.


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## Sabien (Mar 28, 2017)

Thanks, but I heard 6 crickets a day would be enough, but wouldn't that mean I'm running out of crickets quickly?


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## Chris1 (Mar 28, 2017)

My stumpies love very ripe banana, their salads usually consist of rocket banana pumpkin and apple. 

I feed stumpies every second day, mostly salads.

At 8 months old a beardy would probably be fed at least one insect meal daily, (as much as it will eat in 5 mins) mayb 2 depending on how much growing it still has to do, plus salad.

Don't forget to dust the crickets with calcium, not sure if a stumpy would do very well in catching crickets itself, but you can always tweezer feed if you can't find snails.
I assume you've sorted out the correct lights/temps and UV etc,...?

At least 20 crickets a day at 8 months old, unless it's already done all it's growing,...


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## Sabien (Mar 28, 2017)

Chris1 said:


> My stumpies love very ripe banana, their salads usually consist of rocket banana pumpkin and apple.
> 
> I feed stumpies every second day, mostly salads.
> 
> ...



I believe I have the right temp and stuff, got the right lights. Can you tell me how many crickets I should buy in a container?



Sabien said:


> I believe I have the right temp and stuff, got the right lights. Can you tell me how many crickets I should buy in a container?


How would I know if it's done all it's growing?


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## Smittiferous (Mar 28, 2017)

Consider making the switch to roaches, they fill bellies faster. If you find you are burning through those small boxes too quickly, a lot of places sell buckets of feeders on an exchange basis.

In regards to growing, well when it reaches expected SVL, it'll probably stop growing.


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## pinefamily (Mar 28, 2017)

An 8 month old beardie is far from fully grown, at least two years old for full size.
Offer both of them fresh fruit and veg; as a juvenile, the beardie may or may not eat it, but as it grows it will start to eat it more and more. As an adult, beardies eat more fruit and veg than live food.


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## Sabien (Mar 29, 2017)

pinefamily said:


> An 8 month old beardie is far from fully grown, at least two years old for full size.
> Offer both of them fresh fruit and veg; as a juvenile, the beardie may or may not eat it, but as it grows it will start to eat it more and more. As an adult, beardies eat more fruit and veg than live food.


I read about that, every day I feed them both quite a few crickets each and put a bowl of cut up grapes in there for them, the stumpy will eat the fruit but not the beardie that I know of, any fruits that you think a beardie will eat?

I also had another question, cleaning the tank, I know to sift the sand and heard to take the lizards out but where would I put them without them getting cold or escaping?


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## pythoninfinite (Mar 29, 2017)

Just put them into a plastic bucket or tub for the few minutes it'll take you to sift the sand. Sounds like you got the animals long before you are ready to look after them properly.

Jamie


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## Sabien (Mar 29, 2017)

pythoninfinite said:


> Just put them into a plastic bucket or tub for the few minutes it'll take you to sift the sand. Sounds like you got the animals long before you are ready to look after them properly.
> 
> Jamie


Actually I did a lot of research before getting them, the only reason I'm asking these questions is because I want others opinions and how they do it. I am ready to look after them properly and the only reason I asked that question was because I don't want them getting cold and the beardie likes to run so I wanted to see what people put their lizards in. So yes I am ready to look after them properly.

I was just curious, do you think 10 crickets each a day is enough?


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## Smittiferous (Mar 29, 2017)

Just keep the food coming until he's obviously lost interest. When my beardies were that age they'd clean up probably ten adult wood roaches in one sitting, each. Given adult woodies are close to twice the volume as crickets, i'd say no. Not at all.


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## nick_75 (Mar 29, 2017)

Buy these books.
Guide to Australian Dragons in Captivity
Guide to Australian Skinks in Captivity


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## GBWhite (Mar 29, 2017)

Hi Sabien,

As Nick suggests buy the recommended books. In the mean time acquaint yourself with these.

https://www.lllreptile.com/articles/159-tips-for-raising-baby-bearded-dragons-in-captivity/

https://www.kellyvillepets.com.au/pages/bearded-dragons

https://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/caresheet/

http://www.pilbarapythons.com/bobtailcaresheets.htm

http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Lizard-Species/Shingleback-Skink/

10 Crickets a day is nowhere near enough if you want your beardy to grow at a normal rate. Try to get your hands on wood roaches as suggested. You can even feed them maggots (leave out a bit of raw meat or can of dog food somewhere safe and you'll have heaps in no time). Offer both the beardy and shingleback a mix of vegies and fruit daily. Despite what some people will tell you, you can also offer both canned puppy food. You will have to spray the beary with a little water daily to ensure that it gets a drink and doesn't dehydrate. I hope you've got a good heat source and UV set up for them if they are inside. Are you keeping them in the same enclosure?

Best of luck,

George.


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## pinefamily (Mar 29, 2017)

For both of them offer a variety of fruit and veg (more veg than fruit). Over time you will find what ones they like, and keep offering a mix of different things each day.
As an example, bok choy, mustard greens, amaranth, green peas, chopped green beans, fancy lettuce (definitely not iceberg lettuce), grated carrot, grated butternut/pumpkin, grated zucchini, chopped strawberries (or other berries), finely chopped capsicum, and banana occasionally are all good in their diets.


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## Sabien (Mar 30, 2017)

GBWhite said:


> Hi Sabien,
> 
> As Nick suggests buy the recommended books. In the mean time acquaint yourself with these.
> 
> ...


Yes they're in the same enclosure. I've got them both in a 4 foot tank and I feed them both until they stop but the beardie doesn't eat fruit or veg. I've tried feeding him some but he won't touch it, is there any way that'll get him to eat it? With the cold weather I wanted to bathe my beardie but wanted to know if stumpy's can bathe as well.


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## GBWhite (Mar 30, 2017)

I hope you took the time to read the cars sheets.

If they're in a tank...Is it a glass tank? Glass tanks are notorious for not retaining heat. Do they have to share the same basking spot? Is the basking spot hot enough? You shouldn't have to bathe the Bearded, just spray a little water on its head and allow it to lick the drops as they drip down into its mouth and definitely don't bathe the Shingleback. You just have to persist with feeding the Bearded a veg/fruit mix. You can put the crickets in the fridge to cool them down so they don't move around and take them out and place them,in with the veg/fruit mix to try and encourage the Bearded to eat it. It'll be attracted to the mix as the crickets warm up and start moving about. Alternatively you can, just mix a little bit of puppy food in with the veg/fruit mix and hope the smell attracts both of them to it.

I know it can be difficult to resist handling them but try not to disturb them too much and allow them to get use to their new surrounds.

George.


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## Sabien (Mar 30, 2017)

GBWhite said:


> I hope you took the time to read the cars sheets.
> 
> If they're in a tank...Is it a glass tank? Glass tanks are notorious for not retaining heat. Do they have to share the same basking spot? Is the basking spot hot enough? You shouldn't have to bathe the Bearded, just spray a little water on its head and allow it to lick the drops as they drip down into its mouth and definitely don't bathe the Shingleback. You just have to persist with feeding the Bearded a veg/fruit mix. You can put the crickets in the fridge to cool them down so they don't move around and take them out and place them,in with the veg/fruit mix to try and encourage the Bearded to eat it. It'll be attracted to the mix as the crickets warm up and start moving about. Alternatively you can, just mix a little bit of puppy food in with the veg/fruit mix and hope the smell attracts both of them to it.
> 
> ...


Is there certain puppy food that's allowed and not allowed? Yes it's a glass tank and they're pretty used to their new surroundings, they like to be handled and chill with you. I've read about people's beardies that like to bathe in water and he sometimes sits in his water. They both bask in the same area. The beardie sits on his driftwood and the stumpy lays in the sand under it or in her cave.


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## GBWhite (Mar 30, 2017)

Any puppy food that DOESN'T contain fish products. It's a misconception that lizards, in fact reptiles in general, like to be handled and chill out with people. They do tolerate it but prefer to be left alone. From what you've posted it appears that you've only had them both for around a week and it takes a lot longer than that for them to totally adapt to a new environment. For the welfare of your lizards it's best to keep handling to a minimum, at least at the moment. Some bearded's do like to sit in water and some people do bathe them but there isn't any need to. Just make sure that he's drinking because they quite often don't drink from standing water. It might also be worth considering to house them in separate enclosures, if not now then sometime down the track. At the moment it's worth the effort to insulate the side and back of the glass tank.

Did you read the care sheets? Do you intend to by the books recommended? There's plenty of info in the care sheets and the books to answer pretty much all your questions. The more you learn the better off both you and your lizards will be.

George.


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## pythoninfinite (Mar 30, 2017)

Why do you want to bathe the Bearded Dragon?

Jamie


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## Sabien (Mar 31, 2017)

GBWhite said:


> Any puppy food that DOESN'T contain fish products. It's a misconception that lizards, in fact reptiles in general, like to be handled and chill out with people. They do tolerate it but prefer to be left alone. From what you've posted it appears that you've only had them both for around a week and it takes a lot longer than that for them to totally adapt to a new environment. For the welfare of your lizards it's best to keep handling to a minimum, at least at the moment. Some bearded's do like to sit in water and some people do bathe them but there isn't any need to. Just make sure that he's drinking because they quite often don't drink from standing water. It might also be worth considering to house them in separate enclosures, if not now then sometime down the track. At the moment it's worth the effort to insulate the side and back of the glass tank.
> 
> Did you read the care sheets? Do you intend to by the books recommended? There's plenty of info in the care sheets and the books to answer pretty much all your questions. The more you learn the better off both you and your lizards will be.
> 
> George.


Can't afford another tank or any room to put it. Would it be better to have the water that's in a bowl be lowered so the stumpy can reach it? I'm not sure if she's able to reach it or not.


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## nick_75 (Mar 31, 2017)

If you do not have the ability to adequately house and care for both animals you need to sell one.


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## Sabien (Mar 31, 2017)

nick_75 said:


> If you do not have the ability to adequately house and care for both animals you need to sell one.


I'm not going to sell it just because they're in the same tank, they're good with each other and have no problems being in the same tank. People have said they'll be fine and I'm not going to go and sell one.


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## nick_75 (Mar 31, 2017)

Being housed together will create conflict over space, food, basking spot and hides. Their close proximity will cause stress and stimulate aggressive behavior. You are housing non social animals together that in the wild stay away from each other.


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## pinefamily (Apr 1, 2017)

I think you have been given bad advice by these people. As Nick has pointed out, these two species normally steer clear of each other in the wild. If you wish to keep them together, you need the largest tank you can fit in, and it must have more than one basking spot and multiple hides.


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## Stompsy (Apr 2, 2017)

Gumtree. Lots of tanks cheap as buggery on there. I got a 4 foot tank for twenty dollars and my pinkys tank for 30. Even if you start buying little bits and pieces as you can afford them, it's better than doing nothing and it ending in tears. 

Also, a great temp setup is a big tub from Bunnings, heat cord under one side, setup like a click clack. 

Just food for thought.


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## Sabien (Apr 3, 2017)

nick_75 said:


> Being housed together will create conflict over space, food, basking spot and hides. Their close proximity will cause stress and stimulate aggressive behavior. You are housing non social animals together that in the wild stay away from each other.


They've been fine from the beginning. They haven't fought over anything yet. And I've had people tell me they'll be fine together.



pinefamily said:


> I think you have been given bad advice by these people. As Nick has pointed out, these two species normally steer clear of each other in the wild. If you wish to keep them together, you need the largest tank you can fit in, and it must have more than one basking spot and multiple hides.


It does have all of that, it is a large tank and they bask in different places.

It's all good now I've got family who have owned loads of lizards before and they've given me the advice I need. Thanks for the help.


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## pinefamily (Apr 3, 2017)

Lizards can be kept together more than snakes but usually, and more successfully, in outdoor setups with a larger area.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## Nero Egernia (Apr 3, 2017)

Sabien said:


> Can't afford another tank or any room to put it.



I keep telling myself that, and yet time and time again it amazes me that I am able to find or make room for more critters!


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## Sabien (Apr 3, 2017)

Oshkii said:


> I keep telling myself that, and yet time and time again it amazes me that I am able to find or make room for more critters!


Good for you.


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## Pauls_Pythons (Apr 3, 2017)

Sabien said:


> It's fine, I've had people tell me they're fine together and that I don't need to move them. Yeah you're telling me to move them, but I have people saying they can stay together.



So I take it that means you don't actually need this forum or the help offered by people with many years of first hand experience. So why come here in the first place?
I can hardly wait for the thread entitled 'My lizards are attacking eachother' or 'Why is my lizard dead?'


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## Stompsy (Apr 3, 2017)

Pauls_Pythons said:


> So I take it that means you don't actually need this forum or the help offered by people with many years of first hand experience. So why come here in the first place?
> I can hardly wait for the thread entitled 'My lizards are attacking eachother' or 'Why is my lizard dead?'


^this

Why come here asking for advice if you get all defensive when it's provided? 

Good luck with your lizards and I really hope they do well....


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## Sabien (Apr 3, 2017)

Pauls_Pythons said:


> So I take it that means you don't actually need this forum or the help offered by people with many years of first hand experience. So why come here in the first place?
> I can hardly wait for the thread entitled 'My lizards are attacking eachother' or 'Why is my lizard dead?'


My family have had first hand experience as well, and I asked them on the weekend when I saw them. I came here in the first place because I wanted to ask questions and see what others say to them. And don't worry, the threads entitled 'My lizards are attacking each other' or 'Why is my lizard dead?' won't be coming any time soon.



Stompsy said:


> ^this
> 
> Why come here asking for advice if you get all defensive when it's provided?
> 
> Good luck with your lizards and I really hope they do well....


I've been told on here I've received bad advice, I'm not prepared to properly own a lizard, that I have to sell one, doesn't help when people become negative. The reason I asked these questions was to hear other peoples opinion. People start getting salty and triggered when I get advice from family, you guys have years of first hand experience. My mums uncle used to own shinglebacks, my cousins boyfriend owned a bearded dragon for years, my nana used to own lizards as well. Thank you to those who gave advice and didn't get salty afterwards. And like I said before I've gotten the advice I need now so I don't need anymore help, but thank you anyway. And the lizards are actually quite well, they're healthy and being looked after properly. Didn't come here for people to hardly wait for threads made about why my lizard is dead or why they're attacking each other or why I even came here in the first place.


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## Stompsy (Apr 3, 2017)

Sabien said:


> I've been told on here I've received bad advice, I'm not prepared to properly own a lizard, that I have to sell one, doesn't help when people become negative. The reason I asked these questions was to hear other peoples opinion. People start getting salty and triggered when I get advice from family, you guys have years of first hand experience. My mums uncle used to own shinglebacks, my cousins boyfriend owned a bearded dragon for years, my nana used to own lizards as well. Thank you to those who gave advice and didn't get salty afterwards. And like I said before I've gotten the advice I need now so I don't need anymore help, but thank you anyway. And the lizards are actually quite well, they're healthy and being looked after properly. Didn't come here for people to hardly wait for threads made about why my lizard is dead or why they're attacking each other or why I even came here in the first place.


I would assume the advice you are being given comes from past experience keeping two vastly different species together in one enclosure and it not ending well. 

And to be honest, even if they don't kill each other, they most probably won't be happy residing together. Reptiles are mostly solitary creatures and even clutch mates, when kept together from juveniles to adulthood, they can still quite easily attack each other or even eat each other. 

So, no, it may not have been your initial question, but these guys have seen most everything and are only trying to help. Even if they do sometimes come across as pushy and harsh.... it's still good advice.


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## Sabien (Apr 3, 2017)

Stompsy said:


> I would assume the advice you are being given comes from past experience keeping two vastly different species together in one enclosure and it not ending well.
> 
> And to be honest, even if they don't kill each other, they most probably won't be happy residing together. Reptiles are mostly solitary creatures and even clutch mates, when kept together from juveniles to adulthood, they can still quite easily attack each other or even eat each other.
> 
> So, no, it may not have been your initial question, but these guys have seen most everything and are only trying to help. Even if they do sometimes come across as pushy and harsh.... it's still good advice.


Thanks for that, I will try and seperate them as I do have a feeling the beardie eats most of the food then the stumpy as he's faster but the stumpy still eats all the fruit and veg as he doesn't eat it. I will try and seperate them but my mum is a little tight on money right now and shes very busy as well. I will try and find a place to put the stumpy but don't think I can just yet as there isn't really much room and don't have the money yet, though next year my sister is moving into a larger room so I will have her room as well to put the stumpy in there, thanks. I heard shingle backs do grow up to 60 cm. And when i get a new tank id prefer one that won't have to be upgraded. Do you know what a good size would be for one? I read somewhere on here that sand isn't the best for them. Any type of sand or other that I should use for a bottom? Thanks


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## pinefamily (Apr 3, 2017)

Sand is good for beardies, but not shinglebacks. A leaf litter type substrate is best for them. Depending on where you live in Australia, you could always get one of those raised garden beds and keep them outside. Just remember it needs to be bigger than your tank.
And to explain some responses you have received: you asked some questions on here, seeking advice/opinions, and then after getting the correct advice you have turned around and said that friends and family have told you otherwise. Please understand why people on here might be upset, after taking the time to answer you.


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## Stompsy (Apr 3, 2017)

I don't keep Shingleback's myself, but all the care sheets I've seen suggest a single adult requires a tank at least 1metre by 50 by 50.

There are probably other people on here better equipped to answer the question however.... if they want to now.

Hopefully someone will jump in and give you some advice.


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## Nero Egernia (Apr 3, 2017)

Sabien said:


> I heard shingle backs do grow up to 60 cm.



I think that size is quite the exaggeration. I have never heard of or seen such a size in Bobtails, and I have seen many a wild specimen. Most generally reach a snout to vent length of 28cm, some smaller, some larger. Although they can be quite stocky and heavy for their size.

120cm x 60cm would be the minimum for these lizards. Bigger, of course, is better. They're fairly active and they roam kilometres in the wild. Floor space is more important compared to height as they don't typically climb, but they do like to bury themselves beneath the substrate.


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## Sabien (Apr 4, 2017)

Stompsy said:


> I don't keep Shingleback's myself, but all the care sheets I've seen suggest a single adult requires a tank at least 1metre by 50 by 50.
> 
> There are probably other people on here better equipped to answer the question however.... if they want to now.
> 
> Hopefully someone will jump in and give you some advice.


Thanks for that, not really good with measurements, what do you mean by 50 by 50?



Oshkii said:


> I think that size is quite the exaggeration. I have never heard of or seen such a size in Bobtails, and I have seen many a wild specimen. Most generally reach a snout to vent length of 28cm, some smaller, some larger. Although they can be quite stocky and heavy for their size.
> 
> 120cm x 60cm would be the minimum for these lizards. Bigger, of course, is better. They're fairly active and they roam kilometres in the wild. Floor space is more important compared to height as they don't typically climb, but they do like to bury themselves beneath the substrate.


Thank you, yeah I didn't think 60 cm was the actual length they can reach.


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## Stompsy (Apr 4, 2017)

50cm 

Does anyone else have any actual advice regarding enclosure sizes for Sabien?


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## GBWhite (Apr 4, 2017)

It seems a little strange to me that a 15 year old kid is posting replies on days and at times when they should be in a class at school (not just today but on previous occasions) . Also seems a little strange that they are replying using a computer or laptop and not messenger or tapatalk.


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## Nero Egernia (Apr 4, 2017)

Stompsy said:


> 50cm
> 
> Does anyone else have any actual advice regarding enclosure sizes for Sabien?



I did. Housing would be similar to Western and Centralian Blue-tongues. They like a nice hot basking spot, 40-45°C. Best to keep the conditions dry as they don't do well in high humidity. While I don't keep Bobtails now I have kept them extensively in the past. 



GBWhite said:


> It seems a little strange to me that a 15 year old kid is posting replies on days and at times when they should be in a class at school (not just today but on previous occasions) . Also seems a little strange that they are replying using a computer or laptop and not messenger or tapatalk.



It's not so strange. When I was in high school I would often sneak onto more interesting websites too when using the computers.


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## Stompsy (Apr 4, 2017)

GBWhite said:


> It seems a little strange to me that a 15 year old kid is posting replies on days and at times when they should be in a class at school (not just today but on previous occasions) . Also seems a little strange that they are replying using a computer or laptop and not messenger or tapatalk.


Teenagers tend to use their mobile data when they aren't supposed to also. Speaking from the experience of being a mum to a teenager.


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## nick_75 (Apr 4, 2017)

Sabien,

I am glad that you have listened to reason and will separate them before anything happens and both animals are in good health.

Do you have any immediate plans on getting the books recommended? The books have information on enclosures, types of substrate and feeding. They are expensive but necessary, I believe all reptile keepers should own as many books as possible on keeping reptiles in captivity and on reptiles in general. The books should really be purchased before the animal, better late than never. Forewarned is forearmed, knowledge will make you a better keeper.

People did get salty with you, you made them salty because of your unwillingness to listen to reason. When you see a post in which animals are in danger due to negligence, you have to educate the poster of the mistake and recommend a better solution. The harsh treatment was not a personal attack, it was concern for your animals.

I hope that you will stay with APS and that future posts go better for you.

Regards,
Nick


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## Sabien (Apr 4, 2017)

Oshkii said:


> I did. Housing would be similar to Western and Centralian Blue-tongues. They like a nice hot basking spot, 40-45°C. Best to keep the conditions dry as they don't do well in high humidity. While I don't keep Bobtails now I have kept them extensively in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not so strange. When I was in high school I would often sneak onto more interesting websites too when using the computers.


Thank you Oshkii, yes I only reply at school because I like to spend my time on Xbox at home. People at school do sneak onto other websites instead of doing work, sometimes they play games and I just browse Gumtree and this.



nick_75 said:


> Sabien,
> 
> I am glad that you have listened to reason and will separate them before anything happens and both animals are in good health.
> 
> ...


Thanks Nick, I will try and get as much books as I can. May not be able to get them all straight away but will be able to get them one or two at a time, can you please send me a link to where I can buy them? Thanks. The posts are getting better for me just not the fact that my identity is questioned. I don't see how it's relevant to reptiles and find it a bit weird that a grown man, who is a father goes and starts questioning my age and identity. I do hope to get the books as soon as I can afford them, sorry to those I got salty with, I'm just new with reptiles and when I was given advice that I didn't really like I got a bit upset. But the advice I'm giving now is helping and I am taking it into consideration and will be able to seperate the lizards next year as my sister is moving into a big room we're renovating for her so I will have her room for a game room, I will definitely stay with APS as they offer good advice and will also need advice next year on seperating the lizards.


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## Stompsy (Apr 4, 2017)

Sabien said:


> Thank you Stompsy and the others. The advice I've been given is helping, I heard you can get heat rocks for them to bask on but also heard they can be a bit bad as they can burn the lizard, would you guys recommend using one or just continue using a heat lamp but have a rock under it?


Heat cord is the way to go if you are going down that kind of route. It's easy to use and you can add or remove as much as needed to get the correct temps.


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## Nero Egernia (Apr 4, 2017)

A heat lamp positioned over a rock is very effective in my experience. I use this type of setup in most of my enclosures.


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## pinefamily (Apr 4, 2017)

To answer your question, Sabien, heat rocks do indeed have a bad reputation; stay away from them. A real rock under the basking spots will help hold the heat.


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## Sabien (Apr 4, 2017)

Stompsy said:


> Heat cord is the way to go if you are going down that kind of route. It's easy to use and you can add or remove as much as needed to get the correct temps.


I'm not really sure what a heat cord does, are they expensive? And what do they do exactly?



Oshkii said:


> A heat lamp positioned over a rock is very effective in my experience. I use this type of setup in most of my enclosures.


Thank you, would a large stone that the stumpy can lay on be alright?

T


pinefamily said:


> To answer your question, Sabien, heat rocks do indeed have a bad reputation; stay away from them. A real rock under the basking spots will help hold the heat.


hank you for that, the beardie has a large stick that he likes to lay on as the heat lamp is right next to it and so it heats the stick up, he likes to be on this a lot. Is this okay? It's not going to burn him at all?

I had a quick question, my beardie isn't eating any fruit or veg. I've read to place it on his favourite basking spot where he licks. I've placed fruit there but he doesn't touch it. I've heard to put live insects with the fruit and veg but he doesn't seem to touch it, I did however place grated carrot in a little bowl for him with these worms at the bottom to hopefully attract him, the grated carrot was spread across the tank a bit but I'm not sure if he ate a bit or if it was the stumpy. If I mix dog food with the grated carrot would he eat it? I've heard people feed their lizards dog food, dog food that is fed to lizards can't contain fish is that right? Is there anything else I should be aware of when feeding them dog food?


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## Stuart (Apr 4, 2017)

Thread cleaned up. 

Any further attacks or off topic posts will result in thread closure.


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## pinefamily (Apr 4, 2017)

Keep offering the beardie fruit and veg; he should start eating it eventually. Mix it up with different things each day. Some people feed dog food to bluetongues and shinglebacks, but don't feed it to the beardie. Stick to crickets and woodies for him.


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## Sabien (Apr 4, 2017)

Than


pinefamily said:


> Keep offering the beardie fruit and veg; he should start eating it eventually. Mix it up with different things each day. Some people feed dog food to bluetongues and shinglebacks, but don't feed it to the beardie. Stick to crickets and woodies for him.


Thank you, I've been feeding him woodies and crickets but I'm just worried that he may not be eating fruit or veg. I'm hoping he will soon though but is it bad if he doesn't?


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## pinefamily (Apr 4, 2017)

Juvenile beardies eat mainly live food, unless the breeder has introduced fruit and veg from the start. As they grow, they will eat more fruit and veg, and it will become their staple, and you only need to feed live food two or three times a week when they are adults.


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## Nero Egernia (Apr 4, 2017)

Sabien said:


> Thank you, would a large stone that the stumpy can lay on be alright?



Yes, generally large, flat rocks that the lizards can comfortably position themselves on are best. You need to be careful, however, in how you place the rock. You want it to be in a firm place where it cannot be knocked over by the inhabitants and potentially crush them. Likewise, you want the rock to be based on the enclosure's floor, and not on top of the substrate. Otherwise, the lizards may bury under it and become crushed. Remember, large rocks in enclosures can be dangerous, but if you set them up right they not only prove to be a pleasant, natural decoration, they also absorb the heat from the lamp and hold it. Even when the lights are turned off the rock will still contain the heat and the lizards will benefit from this. This can be done with branches as well, but they're nowhere near as good as absorbing and holding the heat. Also, with branches there's the added risk of starting a fire. Be sure that your enclosure can cope with the weight of the rock as they can be very heavy.




Here's an example of a rock used as a basking site (and because I shamelessly love to share my photos). It may not be based on the enclosure's floor but it's firmly in place.


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## Sabien (Apr 4, 2017)

pinefamily said:


> Juvenile beardies eat mainly live food, unless the breeder has introduced fruit and veg from the start. As they grow, they will eat more fruit and veg, and it will become their staple, and you only need to feed live food two or three times a week when they are adults.


Yeah I did read online that when they're adults their diet becomes 80% fruit and veg and 20% live insects. So the beardie will start eating it later on? There's nothing I should be worried about?



Oshkii said:


> Yes, generally large, flat rocks that the lizard can comfortably position themselves on are best. You need to be careful, however, in how you place the rock. You want it to be in a firm place where it cannot be knocked over by the inhabitants and potentially crush them. Likewise, you want the rock to be based on the enclosure's floor, and not on top of the substrate. Otherwise, the lizards may bury under it and become crushed. Remember, large rocks in enclosures can be dangerous, but if you set them up right they not only prove to be a pleasant, natural decoration, they also absorb the heat from the lamp and hold it. Even when the lights are turned off the rock will still contain the heat and the lizards will benefit from this. This can be done with branches as well, but they're nowhere near as good as absorbing and holding the heat. Also, with branches there's the added risk of starting a fire. Be sure that your enclosure can cope with the weight of the rock as they can be very heavy.
> 
> View attachment 320317
> 
> ...


Thanks for that, it looks like a very nice enclosure by the way, I placed the stone in there but buried it into the sand so hopefully the shingle back can't dig under it. The stick is a grapevine tree branch I think, also what kind of lizard is that? It seems like a blue tongue but I'm not sure


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## pinefamily (Apr 4, 2017)

I think I said it above, but keep offering different things each day. Sooner or later, you will find something it will eat. But continue to offer different things, as variety is important.
Bok choy (or other Asian greens), green beans, green peas, carrot, strawberries, grated apple, diced capsicum, butternut, zucchini are all good options. Try and make sure you always have colour in the bowl. Beardies are attracted to the colours.


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## Nero Egernia (Apr 4, 2017)

Sabien said:


> Thanks for that, it looks like a very nice enclosure by the way, I placed the stone in there but buried it into the sand so hopefully the shingle back can't dig under it. The stick is a grapevine tree branch I think, also what kind of lizard is that? It seems like a blue tongue but I'm not sure



Thank you. One of the many joys of keeping reptiles is decorating their enclosures. Make sure the rock is positioned on the enclosure's floor, not just buried in the sand. It's a King's Skink (_Egernia kingii_). One of my favourite lizards. 

Phew, I have never posted so much in a day before.


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## nick_75 (Apr 4, 2017)

Sabien said:


> Thank you Oshkii, yes I only reply at school because I like to spend my time on Xbox at home. People at school do sneak onto other websites instead of doing work, sometimes they play games and I just browse Gumtree and this.
> 
> 
> Thanks Nick, I will try and get as much books as I can. May not be able to get them all straight away but will be able to get them one or two at a time, can you please send me a link to where I can buy them? Thanks. The posts are getting better for me just not the fact that my identity is questioned. I don't see how it's relevant to reptiles and find it a bit weird that a grown man, who is a father goes and starts questioning my age and identity. I do hope to get the books as soon as I can afford them, sorry to those I got salty with, I'm just new with reptiles and when I was given advice that I didn't really like I got a bit upset. But the advice I'm giving now is helping and I am taking it into consideration and will be able to seperate the lizards next year as my sister is moving into a big room we're renovating for her so I will have her room for a game room, I will definitely stay with APS as they offer good advice and will also need advice next year on seperating the lizards.



Hi Sabien,

The Amazing Amazon site sells many good books.
https://www.amazingamazon.com.au/re.../reptile-frog-lizard-pythons-snake-books.html

Regards,
Nick


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## dragonlover1 (Apr 4, 2017)

one of my beardies favourite foods is blueberries,also try strawberries or even kiwi fruit,bananas in small amounts are also good.check out my favourite site.. http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
these are also good for your other lizard


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## nick_75 (Apr 4, 2017)

Are you including calcium and multivitamins in both animals diets?


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## Sabien (Apr 5, 2017)

Oshkii said:


> Thank you. One of the many joys of keeping reptiles is decorating their enclosures. Make sure the rock is positioned on the enclosure's floor, not just buried in the sand. It's a King's Skink (_Egernia kingii_). One of my favourite lizards.
> 
> Phew, I have never posted so much in a day before.


Haha it's a nice lizard, I've positioned it on the enclosures floor but have made sure the lizards can't bury under it or get stuck



nick_75 said:


> Hi Sabien,
> 
> The Amazing Amazon site sells many good books.
> https://www.amazingamazon.com.au/re.../reptile-frog-lizard-pythons-snake-books.html
> ...


Thanks nick I'll speak to my mum about getting them


dragonlover1 said:


> one of my beardies favourite foods is blueberries,also try strawberries or even kiwi fruit,bananas in small amounts are also good.check out my favourite site.. http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
> these are also good for your other lizard


Thank you for that, I will try them fruits



nick_75 said:


> Are you including calcium and multivitamins in both animals diets?


Yeah, I've been including that for both of them

I quite like chameleons as they can change colour. I've seen videos of people putting coloured glasses on or under the chameleon and it changes to that colour. I must say they're quite extraordinary lizards as I don't know any other lizards like them and the fact that they can change colour and patterns is really cool. What is everyone's favourite type of lizard?


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## Jacko18 (Apr 5, 2017)

i have a beardie and a stumpy i feed my beardie a few crickets every two days in her own enclosure and when feeding them both fruits and vegetables i cut them to about the size between there eyes that way they can properly eat the food


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## Sabien (Apr 5, 2017)

Jacko18 said:


> i have a beardie and a stumpy i feed my beardie a few crickets every two days in her own enclosure and when feeding them both fruits and vegetables i cut them to about the size between there eyes that way they can properly eat the food


Thank you for that, I have been cutting the veg and fruits up that size as well

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-view-details.html?adId=1143647880
Had a look at this ad on gumtree and I just realised it said they're 4 weeks old, isn't that too young to be sold? I thought the age they can be sold at is at least 8 weeks, can anyone confirm this for me please?


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## pinefamily (Apr 5, 2017)

That could be one reason why your beardie is not eating fruit and veg: the size between the eyes thing is for live food, not greens. For beardies, things like carrot, zucchini, apple should be grated, green beans, bok choy, etc. chopped small.



Sabien said:


> https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-view-details.html?adId=1143647880
> Had a look at this ad on gumtree and I just realised it said they're 4 weeks old, isn't that too young to be sold? I thought the age they can be sold at is at least 8 weeks, can anyone confirm this for me please?


There is no set age for beardies, but 4 weeks is probably too young. The photos show older beardies, IMO.


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## Sabien (Apr 5, 2017)

pinefamily said:


> That could be one reason why your beardie is not eating fruit and veg: the size between the eyes thing is for live food, not greens. For beardies, things like carrot, zucchini, apple should be grated, green beans, bok choy, etc. chopped small.


Yeah I grate the carrot for him and stuff and have other fruit and veg cut up for them both but he doesn't eat it


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## pinefamily (Apr 5, 2017)

Try cutting up the stuff differently, and try different things. It is a longstanding joke in our house that our dragons eat their fruit and veg better when I cut it up than when my wife does.


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## Sabien (Apr 5, 2017)

Thank


pinefamily said:


> Try cutting up the stuff differently, and try different things. It is a longstanding joke in our house that our dragons eat their fruit and veg better when I cut it up than when my wife does.


s, I'll try different fruit and veg, nice joke by the way


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## dragonlover1 (Apr 6, 2017)

pinefamily said:


> That could be one reason why your beardie is not eating fruit and veg: the size between the eyes thing is for live food, not greens. For beardies, things like carrot, zucchini, apple should be grated, green beans, bok choy, etc. chopped small.


for my adult centrals I chop the veg to about pea size,the pygmy's slightly smaller.
I figure they need jaw exercise


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## Sabien (Apr 11, 2017)

Hey guys, my heat lamp just blew this morning and don't think I can get another until today later in the afternoon. Will the lizards be alright without a heat lamp?


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## Aztec (Apr 11, 2017)

How about a hot water bottle wrapped in a tea towel until heating us back on?


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## pinefamily (Apr 11, 2017)

They'll be fine for the few hours until you get a new globe. If you are running a normal heat globe, don't get sucked in and buy one from a pet/reptile shop, go to Bunnings, or similar, and buy the appropriate wattage Philips spot globe.


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## Sabien (Apr 11, 2017)

pinefamily said:


> They'll be fine for the few hours until you get a new globe. If you are running a normal heat globe, don't get sucked in and buy one from a pet/reptile shop, go to Bunnings, or similar, and buy the appropriate wattage Philips spot globe.


I live in Adelaide so can you please send me a name of a globe to get?


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## pinefamily (Apr 11, 2017)

Re-read my message. 
Philips spot globe, probably 100w should do. Bunnings has a pack of 2 for $5.98.


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## Sabien (Apr 12, 2017)

pinefamily said:


> Re-read my message.
> Philips spot globe, probably 100w should do. Bunnings has a pack of 2 for $5.98.


It's okay now I got a much better heat lamp. Thanks anyway.


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## Imported_tuatara (Aug 6, 2017)

an update on the animals, please?....


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