# Formply Construction



## NicG (Jul 21, 2013)

Hi guys,

Has anyone used Formply to construct reptile enclosures?

I was all set to use melamine (preferably black) when I came across this material at Bunnings. Black, water-resistant and stronger, I was surprised that I hadn't heard of it before.

My project is to create a water monitor enclosure from an existing aquarium with turtle dock and an upside-down URS enclosure. I've done the basic construction, now I have to work out how to set up the heating / lighting ...

STEP ONE......................STEP TWO....................




Cheers,
Nic


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## Lawra (Jul 21, 2013)

Hi NicG formply is great, it's waterproof and nothin sticks to it - bar concrete. I'm confused about what it's there for though?


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## bigjoediver (Jul 21, 2013)

It's not totally water proof, you need to seal the cut edges otherwise it will swell same as any other ply.


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## Lawra (Jul 21, 2013)

Oh sorry I thought that was a given. Always silicone internal joins because if your herp pees it'll go down and make yucky.
Edit: compared to melamine bought at bunnings which is often cheap and not waterproof at all.


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## wokka (Jul 21, 2013)

Quality formboard can be water proof and very durable. Years ago, in the days before Bunnings, I have made boats out of it. I doubt that Bunnings stuff is as good a quality.


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## Ramy (Jul 21, 2013)

Interesting project, I'm interested to know how you're heating it? Cause those tanks have mesh lids you can put a radiant heat source on top of... I don't suppose it would easy to cut the silicone to get the glass out of the bottom? I know there's a bit of plastic around the corners, but it might be worth considering. I personally prefer when the light fitting is accessible from outside the enclosure, for easy bulb change. You don't even have an easy surface to attach a heat lamp to on the inside, and water monitors won't make do with only floor heating the way a python will.


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## Marzzy (Jul 21, 2013)

Never swelled on our construction sites.... had it laying around everywhere. Which reminded me when it came time to clean up an i picked up a massive piece with two huge bluetongues underneath, **** myself at first but then realised they were only bluetongues.


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## NicG (Jul 22, 2013)

Lawra said:


> I'm confused about what it's there for though?


Several reasons ...
1) To provide a means of attaching the top glass tank to the bottom one
2) To enable electrical and filtration access
3) To increase the overall height and introduce an all-around shelf



Ramy said:


> Interesting project, I'm interested to know how you're heating it? Cause those tanks have mesh lids you can put a radiant heat source on top of... I don't suppose it would easy to cut the silicone to get the glass out of the bottom?


I'll be using a shelf connected to vertical panels supported by the edging of what was the roof of the stand-alone URS enclosure. I thought about removing the floor and keeping it upright, but that would seriously compromise the structure's integrity.

My immediate problem is an unexpected one. Once I (belatedly) removed the cling wrap, I realized that sliding glass no longer sits properly in the guide. I don't think I can swap the top and bottom guides, so what to do now ...?


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## Rogue5861 (Jul 22, 2013)

NicG said:


> Several reasons ...
> 1) To provide a means of attaching the top glass tank to the bottom one
> 2) To enable electrical and filtration access
> 3) To increase the overall height and introduce an all-around shelf
> ...



Use the URS tank for another animal an make up a canopy to sit on top of the aquarium. As you will need to make some major changes for the URS to work upside.


Rick


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## NicG (Jul 22, 2013)

I'm not sure I can admit defeat now. The last hurdle of the sliding glass panels, can't possibly be insurmountable ... surely.

The only potential solution I've come up with is to use a line of silicon to force the glass panel upwards and therefore into the upper tracking. Is it possible to exchange the upper and lower guides (obviously the optimal solution)?


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## Rogue5861 (Jul 22, 2013)

NicG said:


> I'm not sure I can admit defeat now. The last hurdle of the sliding glass panels, can't possibly be insurmountable ... surely.
> 
> The only potential solution I've come up with is to use a line of silicon to force the glass panel upwards and therefore into the upper tracking. Is it possible to exchange the upper and lower guides (obviously the optimal solution)?



I don't see why not but it the URS tank worth so little that you would possibly destroy it?


Rick


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## NicG (Jul 22, 2013)

I was hoping not. The original plan was to leave the URS enclosure untouched ... to be potentially reused if this one needed to be upgraded to a bigger upper section. Filtration / heating / lighting - I knew were problems that would have to be solved. The sliding glass was a complication that I never anticipated.


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## James_Scott (Jul 23, 2013)

I see you have a bit of an issue there.
Buy a new bottom track and silicon it directly ontop of the old track. Be careful not to get too much in the tracking. This has now raised the hieght of the bottom. If your clever you can have the glass in whilst you are doing it and can use the same glass. If not you may have to get a couple more pieces of glass.


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## NicG (Jul 23, 2013)

I think you're on the right track, James. Rather than stop the panels falling too far downwards by attaching something to the glass itself, I should simply just pack the bottom of the tracking. If I'm, as you say, clever, I should be able to do it in such a way that it is removable and keep the use of the existing panels.


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