# Please Post Monitor Enclosure Pictures



## GeckPhotographer (Jun 7, 2011)

Hi am getting some monitors soon. _V.gilleni_. Would really love to see enclosures of monitors people have mostly just of the smaller species like Gillen's.

Thanks in advance.


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## lizardloco (Jun 7, 2011)

Keep this thread going, I want to see some too.


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## blakehose (Jun 7, 2011)

Not flash, but it does its job well.


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## 666PYTHON (Jun 7, 2011)

thats nice set up blakehose wat do you house it in?


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## Klaery (Jun 7, 2011)

Even less flash  but it still does the job for smaller species/juvies. Bigger floor space than your average four foot tank and half the price/weight.


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## blakehose (Jun 7, 2011)

666PYTHON said:


> thats nice set up blakehose wat do you house it in?


 
Desert Sand monitor, Varanus Gouldii Flavirufus. Though i'll soon be parting with 'it'!


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 7, 2011)

I really like you setup blakehouse, nice pic/lizard too. Thanks.

danielk certainly not flash but the job is all it needs to do. It look like the light is just dangling in there is that right and if so does it cause any issues opening the cage?


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## Klaery (Jun 7, 2011)

Naa it is screwed in to the wooden lid/roof. You can see the power cord comes out through the lid. The base mount is black though so a bit hard to see inside the enclosure.


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 7, 2011)

Ok thanks.


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## 666PYTHON (Jun 7, 2011)

oh yea cool how big do sand monitors get?


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## reptilian1924 (Jun 7, 2011)

View attachment 204529
View attachment 204525
View attachment 204524
View attachment 204523
View attachment 204522


Here you can see what l use to keep inside these 2 Monitor enclosures, on the left were 6 x adult Ridge-Tailed Monitors, while on the right was 1 small Desert Sand Monitor. these 2 enclosures were built from exterior plywood, the walls were made from 20mm thick and the floor was made from 25mm thick timber, the walls are 2 foot high but can be extended to 3 foot high, the lengh is 6 foot long by 3 foot wide, the enclosure can be used as one very large enclosure if need be 6 foot square with either 2 or 3 foot high walls, the floor also has laminex glued to it for added protection.

Hope you enjoyed viewing these photos of my large indoor Lizard enclosure.


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 7, 2011)

Nice those are awesome looking enclosures thanks for all the measurements on them too. 

Appreciate all these replies really good info thanks.


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## blakehose (Jun 7, 2011)

Sorry, I forgot to mention dimensions. Mine is 6x2x2 (ft)


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## Robo1 (Jun 8, 2011)

Posted this one a few times before. I currently have 4 Ackies in there, dimensions are 1800x1200x700.


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 12, 2011)

Bump any more? Especially some Gillen's ones if possible?


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## lizardloco (Jun 12, 2011)

Robo1 said:


> Posted this one a few times before. I currently have 4 Ackies in there, dimensions are 1800x1200x700.


That's pretty cool!


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## Fiamma (Jun 12, 2011)

Robo1 said:


> Posted this one a few times before. I currently have 4 Ackies in there, dimensions are 1800x1200x700.


 Nice enclosure Robo1...did you make it yourself?


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## Robo1 (Jun 14, 2011)

Fiamma said:


> Nice enclosure Robo1...did you make it yourself?


I picked up the enclosure second hand, but it was only the exterior and the glass. All the internals (branches, shelving, lights, etc.) I did.


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## zacthefrog (Jun 14, 2011)

keep the thread going id like to see somme more of people pics


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 14, 2011)

I just got my Gillen's today I will post some pics later, maybe tomorrow.

Edit: Picture of one of my new young Gillen's and the enclosure I have them in. (2 young individuals atm.)



By the way can anyone tell me how to put in pictures from my Flickr?


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## dihsmaj (Jun 15, 2011)

GeckPhotographer said:


> I just got my Gillen's today I will post some pics later, maybe tomorrow.
> 
> Edit: Picture of one of my new young Gillen's and the enclosure I have them in. (2 young individuals atm.)View attachment 205766
> View attachment 205767
> ...


 
What are the dimensions of that enclosure?


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 15, 2011)

0.8m W, 1m H, 0.5m D


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## dozerman (Jun 15, 2011)

hey GeckPhotographer, I used to keep and breed Gillens in a similar enclosure and found the monitors seemed happier with a flood light just above their hide on the floor. This created their hot spot ( 60 deg ). I then placed a 12 v dicroic up high with a uv tube. The gillens would 'charge up ' at the hot spot then take to their branches to enjoy themselves and hang out under the fluoro. Ill look for a photo but no promises. cheers


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 15, 2011)

Hey thanks what was the floodlight like? I have not got a UV as I had heard monitors did not need one. I am a little unhappy with my hotspot at the moment the 250W bulb shown in my pic is only reaching about 46 C.

Also how did you put/attach the floodlight in the enclosure and ensure they could not tough it? 

I must admit that out of everything on this forum the things that confuse me the most is lighting terminology. 


You cannot see it in the picture but there is a GU10 light up high in their enclosure just for lighting that supplies minimal heat (even though it was what I had advised as a heat light to me). I think this is similar to a dichroic light?

Mine have been moving between on top of the roof of that box down in the left of the picture and on top of the log just underneath the basking light I have (which I said has only been reaching 46 C).

Thanks in advance, the monitors seem to be doing fine at the moment, are active and eating (they woke up from inside their sleeping area so it must have got somewhat warm under it), but of course if anything I can do will improve their happiness I am willing to keep improving their enclosure.


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## cadwallader (Jun 15, 2011)

monitor will need uv so you will have to get some of that too them... and 46 will do but a bit hotter will be optional  once it has some uv it will be a very nice enclosure imo

few tanks from the past and present..


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## SamNabz (Jun 15, 2011)

_V.gilleni_ don't require UV, 46c is fine however if you can get it a bit hotter it wouldn't hurt...


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 15, 2011)

That is ok I have a spare UV globe in my cupboard I can plug in tomorrow.

From Keeping and Breeding Australian Lizards (aka my bible) "Exposure to UV is beneficial but not absolutely necessary, providing calcium/D3 supplement is added to the diet on a regular basis."

Since I dust my crickets and woodies wit a 3:1 Calcium:multivitamin powder 4 of 5 feeds with most of my lizards (geckos, and beardies) and plan to do with these monitors as well I assume this will be fine?


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## Snakeluvver2 (Jun 15, 2011)

They don't need UV.... 
150 Watt Flood light for sub adult and adult small monitors 
100 Watt Flood light for babies and smaller Monitors

I don't really worry about having a light enclosure, they will touch the light once and know never to touch it again.
60-70 degrees is perfect (surface temperature) and have an ackie stack so they can self regulate themselves.

Calcium: Yep that's fine. 
When my monitors got too eating rodents I used a syringe to inject liquid calcium into the rodent itself every fortnight or so. Not really needed but it makes me happy and feel warm inside.


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## cadwallader (Jun 15, 2011)

would love to see some monitor tubs...


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## reptilian1924 (Jun 15, 2011)

Please tell me if Monitors don't have access to any UVB, how can they diggest calcium & vitamine D3 properly, do you all know where alot of small Monitors a found natually out in the wild, and how hot the temperature and how strong UVA & UVB is.

ln 2003 l myself was given permission by the Parks & wildlife Commission of NT in Darwin, to collect 6 Pygmy-Mulga Monitors from the wild in Alice Springs NT, the UV from that region is very strong out in the open during the summer peak period.

So for anyone to say small Monitors that come from areas such as Outback Central Australia, and l'm talking about, Ridge-Tailed, Pygmy-Mulga, Storrs, Short-Tailed Pygmy for example, don't need access to UVA & UVB, should do some research before they log into any Reptile forum and say they don't need access to UV In My Opinion.


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## Snakeluvver2 (Jun 15, 2011)

Ok your the expert. 
I'll tell my friends who have been keeping Monitors for 30 years + to change everything straight away.


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## SamNabz (Jun 15, 2011)

So why/how have they been successfully raised/bred/kept without UV in captivity then, reptilian1993?


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## Snakeluvver2 (Jun 15, 2011)

Must be all poached.

Sorry to let the cat out of the bag and tell the truth.


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 15, 2011)

> Please tell me if Monitors don't have access to any UVB, how can they diggest calcium & vitamine D3 properly, do you all know where alot of small Monitors a found natually out in the wild, and how hot the temperature and how strong UVA & UVB is.
> 
> ln 2003 l myself was given permission by the Parks & wildlife Commission of NT in Darwin, to collect 6 Pygmy-Mulga Monitors from the wild in Alice Springs NT, the UV from that region is very strong out in the open during the summer peak period.
> 
> So for anyone to say small Monitors that come from areas such as Outback Central Australia, and l'm talking about, Ridge-Tailed, Pygmy-Mulga, Storrs, Short-Tailed for example, don't need access to UVA & UVB, should do some research before they log into any Reptile forum and say they don't need access to UV In My Opinion.


The highest recorded temperature in Australian history was 50.7 so why should these monitors be needing a temperature of between 60 and 70 degrees Celsius?

As I understand it Vitamin D3 is required for the "digestion" or absorption of calcium but I may be wrong on that point.


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## Snakeluvver2 (Jun 15, 2011)

Highest air temperature, not surface temperature. If you go outside and take the temperature of the a bitumen road in summer I can guarantee you you that the temperature can get above 50 degrees easy.



> I don't really worry about having a light enclosure, they will touch the light once and know never to touch it again.
> 60-70 degrees is perfect (*surface temperature*) and have an ackie stack so they can self regulate themselves.


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## petesmith81 (Jun 15, 2011)

s

This what i currrently have my gillens in


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## cadwallader (Jun 15, 2011)

i think uv light for me is the feeling that they are receiving UV from a light source like in the wild and the extra supplements for me it makes me feel better about my personal setup.. now back to the pictures


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## SamNabz (Jun 15, 2011)

Anxiously awaiting reptilian's reply...


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## Klaery (Jun 15, 2011)

D3 is what they get from the sun. If you can give them that via there diet then you are replacing what they need from the sun. The d3 is what aids calcium absorption and so you can see where that comes in. 

The argument that it is present in there natural environment and so they must need it in captivity is a weak one and is not 'research'. Should we also make sure they have their natural dose of parasites?


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## Snakeluvver2 (Jun 15, 2011)

> D3 is what they get from the sun. If you can give them that via there diet then you are replacing what they need from the sun. The d3 is what aids calcium absorption and so you can see where that comes in.
> 
> The argument that it is present in there natural environment and so they must need it in captivity is a weak one and is not 'research'. Should we also make sure they have there natural dose of parasites?


Snap.


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## SamNabz (Jun 15, 2011)

lol, Batman


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 15, 2011)

> D3 is what they get from the sun. If you can give them that via there diet then you are replacing what they need from the sun. The d3 is what aids calcium absorption and so you can see where that comes in.
> 
> The argument that it is present in there natural environment and so they must need it in captivity is a weak one and is not 'research'. Should we also make sure they have there natural dose of parasites?



Thank you for that I thought that was right with the D3 need. 



> Highest air temperature, not surface temperature. If you go outside and take the temperature of the a bitumen road in summer I can guarantee you you that the temperature can get above 50 degrees easy.



Fair enough, I certainly was not saying they did not need it as I would not know, being a new keeper.



Ok so if I want to put a flood light into my cage you would recommend 100W, how do you recommend it is 'inserted' into the cage and is there any particular flood light you would recommend?


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## SamNabz (Jun 15, 2011)

Geckophotographer, search "housing small goannas", it's a thread by spongebob (very reputable monitor keeper/breeder) showing how he houses young monitors in tubs with GU10 lights that reach 60-70c.

I've set up my ackies tubs like he has shown and they work great! I get a hotspot of 59-62c, and it cost me $16 for the light and $5 for the GU10 globe (20W).


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## cadwallader (Jun 15, 2011)

*uv*

dont forget the $30 uv Globe in the tub sam....


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 15, 2011)

I have read that thread, it is why I got a GU10 light but even right in front of that light it is reaching only 31 C, that is with a 50W bulb. I was a little confused as to why but that is what my thermometer is reading.


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## Klaery (Jun 15, 2011)

Yep,
And sorry if that sounded pointed. I just didn't agree with a one sided argument linking circumstantial 'evidence' and research in the same sentence. That is not the way it works.

I do agree though Reptilian that UV can only be beneficial and some of the healthiest animals I have seen have had access to natural sunlight. I just do not agree that its availability is necessary to have animals that are just as healthy.

Oh and Pete those are some beautiful gilleni enclosures!


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## SamNabz (Jun 15, 2011)

cadwallader said:


> dont forget the $30 uv Globe in the tub sam....


 
What $30 globe? As I said above, $5 GU10 *globe* -- light fitting and globe both from bunnings, and if my memory serves me correct there was actually 2 globes in the pack for $5. So all up I paid $21 for the light fitting and 2x globes...

Keep in mind, there is no lead connected to the light fitting, you have to get a sparky to wire it up.


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## reptilian1924 (Jun 15, 2011)

Snakeluvver2 said:


> Ok your the expert.
> I'll tell my friends who have been keeping Monitors for 30 years + to change everything straight away.


Snakeluvver2, no l am not a expert in regards to keeping and breeding and husbandry of Monitors in captivity, l know from what l have seen out in the wild and from what l've been told by people who still or have worked in zoos throughout Australia, that do know alot about keeping and breedin all types of Reptiles for the last 20 or so years.



GeckPhotographer said:


> The highest recorded temperature in Australian history was 50.7 so why should these monitors be needing a temperature of between 60 and 70 degrees Celsius?
> Geckphotographer, l did not say anything about what temperature they should be given in captivity, l was talking about UV and what they should not be denied or not given access to UVA & UVB in captivity.
> As I understand it Vitamin D3 is required for the "digestion" or absorption of calcium but I may be wrong on that point.


 


SamNabz said:


> So why/how have they been successfully raised/bred/kept without UV in captivity then, reptilian1993?


SamNabz,yes l know alot of Reptile keepers have had success in breeding Monitors in captivity without given them access to UVA & UVB, if you compared a captive breed Monitor with a wild caught monitor say Ridge-Tailed for example, you will notice the Monitors found out in the wild, a alot more healthy and far more better developed with their muscle bones.


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## saximus (Jun 15, 2011)

I knew a thread couldn't get to three pages this fast without there being some controversy. Glad I read through it now .
Geck, mine uses a prewired ceramic fitting. I used aluminium flyscreen on top so the fitting just screws up against that with a couple of large washers to spread out the load a bit. Like someone said earlier, you don't need a cage ecause they seem to be smarter than snakes and if they touch it at all, it will only be once


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## SamNabz (Jun 15, 2011)

GeckPhotographer said:


> I have read that thread, it is why I got a GU10 light but even right in front of that light it is reaching only 31 C, that is with a 50W bulb. I was a little confused as to why but that is what my thermometer is reading.



31c? That's very strange... I originally purchased the 35W globes and was getting 80-90c+, then got 20W globes (lowest wattage I could find) and I'm getting perfect temps.

Could it possibly be the way it is wired up? Or maybe the type/brand of globe you're using?


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## Snakeluvver2 (Jun 15, 2011)

No problem, I just don't use smiley faces or crap like that any more. People mistake being direct for being rude.
It's good you are asking questions.

I'd probably go 150. 
I use 100 for tubs. 
Brands: I use the ones from bunnings cheap, $2 or something.

Inserted? I'm not too sure what you mean. But I got mine on ceramic or plastic light holders (all available from bunnings, $15 gets you the bulb plus the plastic holder that can be drilled into place and easily replaced). I place mine in the top corner facing down on several branches and rocks underneath. I also have hides in/around the hot spot.


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 15, 2011)

> I knew a thread couldn't get to three pages this fast without there being some controversy. Glad I read through it now .
> Geck, mine uses a prewired ceramic fitting. I used aluminium flyscreen on top so the fitting just screws up against that with a couple of large washers to spread out the load a bit. Like someone said earlier, you don't need a cage ecause they seem to be smarter than snakes and if they touch it at all, it will only be once



Ok so what type of bulb do you have in your fitting? I am assuming it is just the regular kind of bayonet fitting most reptile lights fit in?


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## SamNabz (Jun 15, 2011)

reptilian1933 said:


> SamNabz,yes l know alot of Reptile keepers have had success in breeding Monitors in captivity without given them access to UVA & UVB, if you compared a captive breed Monitor with a wild caught monitor say Ridge-Tailed for example, you will notice the Monitors found out in the wild, a alot more healthy and far more better developed with their muscle bones.


 
I gotta' disagree with you there mate, I've seen plenty of good and bad CB and WC monitors.

Everyone I know who keeps monitors, does not use UV and they have some crackers.


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## Klaery (Jun 15, 2011)

SamNabz said:


> What $30 globe? As I said above, $5 GU10 *globe* -- light fitting and globe both from bunnings, and if my memory serves me correct there was actually 2 globes in the pack for $5. So all up I paid $21 for the light fitting and 2x globes...
> 
> Keep in mind, there is no lead connected to the light fitting, you have to get a sparky to wire it up.


 
He was being a smat-bottom


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## SamNabz (Jun 15, 2011)

Meh...

And Sax, it's not a good thread unless there is some controversy! What do we have a debate group for


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## saximus (Jun 15, 2011)

GeckPhotographer said:


> Ok so what type of bulb do you have in your fitting? I am assuming it is just the regular kind of bayonet fitting most reptile lights fit in?


 It's an ES fitting because it's a proper ceramic reptile one (bought before I realised you don't need to have "Reptile One" written on everything for it to be adequate for use). You can Phillips lights from Big W for like $3 each

Haha good point Sam. I just don't know whether to be happy or sad that I can pick these things before even opening the thread any more


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 15, 2011)

> Inserted? I'm not too sure what you mean. But I got mine on ceramic or plastic light holders (all available from bunnings, $15 gets you the bulb plus the plastic holder that can be drilled into place and easily replaced). I place mine in the top corner facing down on several branches and rocks underneath. I also have hides in/around the hot spot.


Would you happen to have any pics or be able to take some over the next couple days? I would be much obliged if you could. 

I just want to keep these guys well, and with all the conflicting information and the light first suggested not doing what it should have I have gotten a little confused. 



> 31c? That's very strange... I originally purchased the 35W globes and was getting 80-90c+, then got 20W globes (lowest wattage I could find) and I'm getting perfect temps.
> 
> Could it possibly be the way it is wired up? Or maybe the type/brand of globe you're using?


I am pretty sure it is not the wiring. The pack my dad bought "Turies Spotlight" "GU10 inc50w" 

It looks very similar to the spotlight labelled RP71005-01 on this page Spotlights - Spotlight Fittings, Spotlight Globes, Spotlighting, Low Voltage Spotlights, 240V Spotlights



> It's an ES fitting because it's a proper ceramic reptile one (bought before I realised you don't need to have "Reptile One" written on everything for it to be adequate for use). You can Phillips lights from Big W for like $3 each
> 
> Haha good point Sam. I just don't know whether to be happy or sad that I can pick these things before even opening the thread any more



Thanks for that, I am starting to feel like I might be getting useful information from at least a few people here now.


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## Klaery (Jun 15, 2011)

I just get cheap outdoor spotlight fittings you can buy from bunnings or a good hardware store (yes I did... hate monopolies haha). They are strong, easy to screw into the walls or roof of the enclosure and are to a degree weather resistant. Just picture what you see on the external walls of houses. That is all they are.


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## reptilian1924 (Jun 15, 2011)

SamNabz said:


> I gotta' disagree with you there mate, I've seen plenty of good and bad CB and WC monitors.
> 
> Everyone I know who keeps monitors, does not use UV and they have some crackers.


 
You are entitle to disagree with me mate, let me tell you one thing no matter how long or how many Reptiles you keep now or in the future, you including myself or any other Reptile keepers will never ever become a expert or know everything about them, whether its the same specie of what you have now or something different, you will learn something that you never knew or have known about previously, cause they all have different personalities just like us humans do.

l myself have been keeping and breeding Reptiles since 1975, l didn't get my very first Python until August 1989. and l'm still learning alot about their behaviour as l always will be now and into the future.


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## Snakeluvver2 (Jun 15, 2011)

> Would you happen to have any pics or be able to take some over the next couple days? I would be much obliged if you could.
> 
> I just want to keep these guys well, and with all the conflicting information and the light first suggested not doing what it should have I have gotten a little confused.



No worries I'll try and get some pictures tonight.


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## saximus (Jun 15, 2011)

You're being a very happy helperton tonight J


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## Snakeluvver2 (Jun 15, 2011)

Here are some pics of my V.t.orientalis.


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 15, 2011)

Ok I just rechecked my temps (I decided to run them into the night a while as it was my first real temperature check because the GU10 did not reach the right temps), the log I intend as their basking site is now reading 55 C. So it might get up towards that optimal range if it is left on long enough. Thinking of replacing the log that goes up toward the left of the pic with a more stump like log which they can move up and down the side of to thermoregulate better. 

They came out today and started basking even though they were hiding under that thick piece of log on the ground last night, so is it really necessary to have the basking light right on a hide they can use or is it ok for it to be elevated that much and just have them come up to bask on it as long as they wake up? 

I was thinking of an ackie stack like suggested but do not like the unnatural look of these, does anyone have a more natural looking alternative?

(Going to bed now, will check thread when I get home tomorrow) so thanks in advance and thanks for being so helpful guys.


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## Snakeluvver2 (Jun 15, 2011)

Dam that glass looks a bit dirty.


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## SamNabz (Jun 15, 2011)

reptilian1933 said:


> You are entitle to disagree with me mate, let me tell you one thing no matter how long or how many Reptiles you keep now or in the future, you including myself or any other Reptile keepers will never ever become a expert or know everything about them, whether its the same specie of what you have now or something different, you will learn something that you never knew or have known about previously, cause they all have different personalities just like us humans do.
> 
> l myself have been keeping and breeding Reptiles since 1975, l didn't get my very first Python until August 1989. and l'm still learning alot about their behaviour as l always will be now and into the future.


 
I completely agree with you that neither myself or anyone else will ever know EVERYTHING there is to know about any one species, and although I respect the fact that you have been keeping/breeding for such a long time, I still can't see why monitors *require* UV.

I also don't see why you would type something along the lines of 'don't sign into a reptile forum and provide advice without doing research', when in reality, they are kept and bred this way and have been for a very long time...

As mentioned by another member above, as long as sufficient D3 supplementation is provided to help with the absorption of calcium, it is not a _necessity_...


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## dozerman (Jun 16, 2011)

Wow I missed the party!

GeckP. you might have to play around with lights, basking spots etc until you get it right. There is no strict formula, there are guidelines. You dont want the whole cage at 60 + degrees!

Retes stacks are a great idea but dont just dump it on the top of your substrate, bury a couple of layers under your substrate. This creates different micro climates for your monitors. Ive used pva glue to adhere red sand to the ply. Ive also used ceramic tiles.

As for monitors and Uv, all my young monitors as well as breeding monitors get uv. They might not need it but why short change them? My two cents


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## cadwallader (Jun 16, 2011)

i also find the the UV tube make my display tanks look ALOT better which is another plus. might have a play with some stacks pva and sand these holidays hmm


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 17, 2011)

Ok, so I have heard Compact UV coils can cause eye damage in beardeds. I have also heard this used to occur but has been fixed. Just to be on the safe side I thought I would ask whether there are any known problems with these and monitors. 





Ok here is an update of my cage. 


The blue line represents where three sort of flat-ish logs are running between the two bigger logs. The Gillen's can bask, run around, hide, get annoyed at each other and generally do what they do on these. The red lines represent where the big log is hollow, which is right through it with large space inside so not really a place they can sleep or anything but just somewhere they can utilize if the want. The black dot/circle represents an upright log with a small amount of sandstone rocks around it, I thought these rocks might come in handy for shedding as they are quite coarse, and the log has both crevices or the ability for them to hide under it. There is another log to the right of this that they can also hide under. 

The green circle repesents a Exo Terra Sun Glow 150 Watt Basking Spot Lamp. The top basking spot is a bit closer to this now than in the old setup and although I have not checked yet as the wood has not heated up yet the surface temp should be getting to about 65 C based on what it was a little bit lower, of course they can also bask lower down at lower temperature if they like. 

The yellow circle represents a GU10 light which is primarily just for light light but I have noticed them utilizing basking under this too.


The cage has now only been set up this way for about half an hour, they really appear to be enjoying the basking spot and are also exploring around like crazy. Feel free to comment.


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## cadwallader (Jun 18, 2011)

This is another tank i've made up no deco in it in this photo though..


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## dozerman (Jun 19, 2011)

Hey G.P 

Id put a stack down low and have their main heat above that, remember heat rises. The globe will end up about half way along that hollow log. It worked for me. I also use naturally rolled lengths of bark to fill large hollows. I guess cardboard tubes would work as well. This creates nice tight cover for the monitors makes it easier to access them if you really have too.

Tall cages are harder to set up correctly,imo, but I think you'll definately agree they are worth it when you see your monitors utilising their whole enclosure


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## GeckPhotographer (Jun 19, 2011)

Hmm I can consider putting the light down lower but it will be hard to do.


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