# Polyurethane variations - please help!



## Renenet (Jan 10, 2012)

Hi, 

I'm going to be sealing the interior and exterior of a wooden enclosure soon. I've read a lot about Cabot's polyurethane and went to Bunnings to get some today - only to find myself confronted by an entire wall of choices! I'm now on the Cabot's site trying to figure out which one I need and only confusing myself.

Is water-based or oil-based sealer better? (I am aware that I'll need to leave the enclosure to cure before I put anything in it.) Gloss or satin? CFP Floor, Cabothane Clear or something else? Is there anything equivalent to Cabot's that's cheaper? I don't mind spending the money if it's going to be better in some way, but if there's something that will do the same job for a lower price, I'll happily take the option.

Thanks,
Renenet


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## maddog-1979 (Jan 10, 2012)

i'm using the oil based clear satin on a timber enclosure now. 2 coats on the outside and 3 inside so far, and looks like that is all i will need. it was only about $60 for the 4L tin and i only used half, so may have to do my window trims next, they are due,lol

oh yeah, the enclosure is a 3in 1 stack, each enclosure is 4x2x2, so there was alot of wood to cover


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## kr0nick (Jan 10, 2012)

Hey maddog how long do you let the timber cure for? and also is your enclosure ply or actual timber? Because I have a 6x3x2 ply enclosure that I need to seal.


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## Renenet (Jan 10, 2012)

Thanks, Maddog.

I didn't see your post until after I got back from Bunnings, unfortunately. I came home with water-based Cabothane Clear, gloss. I hope that'll work okay. If it doesn't, I only have a litre of it because I'm doing a smaller project now where it won't matter much anyway.


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## maddog-1979 (Jan 10, 2012)

kr0nick said:


> Hey maddog how long do you let the timber cure for? and also is your enclosure ply or actual timber? Because I have a 6x3x2 ply enclosure that I need to seal.


it's still curing, last coat went on sunday night. now i'm just playin with the electrics, got all 6 ceramic fittings wired up tonight and pinned all the cable behind the enclosure. still have to order glass, and silicone the track in, so could be ready by this weekend, but then i have to test temps and stuff

the water based would be ok too. just lay it on really thick on the floor of the enclosure, thats what i did anyways  then iv'e just siliconed all around the bottom shelves to stop any spills leaking between enclosures


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## Renenet (Jan 10, 2012)

Thanks. As long as they do the same thing, it's all good. But the oil-based one is certainly cheaper. I wonder why the water-based one is so expensive?


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## kr0nick (Jan 11, 2012)

I grabbed A small tin of normal polyurethane today. I am thinking of 2 normal coats with A days drying between them and then 2 of water based poly to try and stop and chemical smell. I already have abit left over from my last project but I will let you know how it goes.


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## Virides (Jan 13, 2012)

Varnish - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Worth the read so everyone can make more informed choices when it comes to what varnish to choose.

Water based seems to be more expensive since the chemical makeup to allow similar/better qualities than oil, needs to not react with the water (solvent) used. So for the manufacturer, the chemicals which are non-reactive cost more to purchase in pure form. The chemicals would also need to be soluable in water and not separate (atleast suspend).


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