# How To Make A Hide



## saximus (Feb 3, 2011)

Does anyone make their own hides like the ones you can buy (the ones that are supposed to look like rocks)?
I like the look of them but they are pretty expensive and generally only come sizes too small for adults.
I was thinking maybe plaster or fiberglass or something similar but then don't know how you'd make a mould for this...?


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## ShaunMorelia (Feb 3, 2011)

Search for fake rockwall backgrounds and use the same method for hides.
Works a treat.


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## Dannyboi (Feb 3, 2011)

Step one get a large cardboard box
Step two cover in expanda foam
Step three get cement
Step four mix cement and add paint as a base to the cement
Step five coat the box in cement and leave to dry
Step six add more colour 
Step seven seal with pondtite or similar.


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## saximus (Feb 3, 2011)

Dannyboi you're the DIY king! Is the expanda foam just to give the uneven shape? Do you remove it afterwards or just leave as part of the inside?
Thanks very much S Word too. A quick google search proved very fruitful


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## Dannyboi (Feb 3, 2011)

You cut it to give it a rocky effect or do whatever you think you would like. You can remove the box from the inside if you want its all optional. Cheers. Rather than having a life I talk to tech teachers and random tradies all the time.


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## J-A-X (Feb 3, 2011)

You could always head over to the DIY group.

http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/groups/diy-enclosures-backgrounds-furniture-225/

we're getting lots of useful tips and hints going, and a few chuckles as well. there were so many people asking about diy backgrounds, hides etc a few of us thought it may be a good idea to have it all in the one spot....


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## crikey (Feb 3, 2011)

the best boxes to use is a bird nesting box might need to sand some of the down. you could also make your own for about $5 and can paint it or whatever


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## ShaunMorelia (Feb 3, 2011)

Dannyboi said:


> ...Rather than having a life I talk to tech teachers and random tradies all the time.


What else is there to do in Adelaide??


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## Dannyboi (Feb 3, 2011)

Actually quite a lot, just not much reptile stuff. Its not as bad as people think. I mean we have Adelaide zoo which is pretty awesome now and plenty of other stuff just not very crowded.


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## dylan-rocks (Feb 3, 2011)

i recently made my own hide. here is a picture of it, abit scaby but it works
just search ''lizard landscapes'' in youtube, he is really talented and makes great how to's.


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## Dannyboi (Feb 3, 2011)

A tip for next time would be to use a brush or comb to get a texture.


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## dylan-rocks (Feb 3, 2011)

yea i was gonna do that with some paint and cement but i ran out lol


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## Mercurian (Feb 3, 2011)

what kind of paint is suitable to use? i would assume that some would be toxic?


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## J-A-X (Feb 3, 2011)

pretty much any paint that states it's non toxic, a lot of the discount shops sell art acrylics that are non toxic. usually around $2 a tube so its cheap enough to grab a few colours.


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## Dannyboi (Feb 3, 2011)

If you want a realistic affect use an oxide.


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## rockstar_jones (Feb 3, 2011)

could probably also use a box with a bit of paper machet instead of expanda foam and then finish as per dannyboi's method. Could use different bits of random cardboard too to give it raised sections and creases similar to the exo terra hides.


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## Dannyboi (Feb 3, 2011)

Yeah any method you choose let us know how it goes. But expanda foam will be quicker and easier to shape.


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## saximus (Feb 3, 2011)

I'm so excited after learning this method and reading the DIY group stuff. Unfortunately I'm in QLD for work and won't get time to try it for a few weeks though. How frustrating

PS Thanks everyone for the help. I was expecting to get slammed for asking here instead of going to Google


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## J-A-X (Feb 3, 2011)

the only down side with the expand foam is that it isn't strong enough over a large horizontal area without some support under it, what size animal are you planning on using it for ?


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## rockstar_jones (Feb 3, 2011)

Other thing I've seen at bunnings is that outdoor texture paint for external feature walls and stuff. Can get like sandstone and natural rock finishes that come out rough with a bit of variation in the finish.

And could do as per the background method and start with a block of foam and carve away to form a hide.

Now I'm even thinking of making a hide :\


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## Dannyboi (Feb 3, 2011)

Jaxrtfm said:


> the only down side with the expand foam is that it isn't strong enough over a large horizontal area without some support under it, what size animal are you planning on using it for ?


 Yeah true but in that case you can use sheet foam. I dunno what else would be an option. This with a cardboard box should suffice but it may not take the weight of an olive python sitting on it. ahaah


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## saximus (Feb 3, 2011)

It's for a 5 or 6' Jungle and a couple of spotteds. After reading stuff on the group I was thinking of using chicken wire for strength and use something round as the mould. So it won't have any big horizontal parts and won't be taking heaps of weight.
Cheers Rockstar I'll check it out. I also saw something about just sprinkling sand on the last coat of grout/cement for the textured thing

How easy is expand foam to work with? Any tips for practising shaping and stuff before I try this? Do you shape it while it's wet or just wait till it's dry and cut it?


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## Dannyboi (Feb 3, 2011)

Yeah sprinkling sand looks off trust me.


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## GSMenardi (Feb 3, 2011)

I made hides for my snakes using popsticks and tissues...

I made a frame out of popsticks (using glue to hold it all together of course!), allowing it to dry as I went, then when it was ready I paper-mached ordinary tissues all over it. How you use the tissues determines how the texture comes out. I painted and sealed them and my snake hasn't had any problems with them. Using this method means the hides are lightweight (sure the snake will probably be able to move them around, but at least if it falls it won't hurt them - my enclosure is largely vertical) and easy to replace and clean.


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## Dannyboi (Feb 3, 2011)

Thats a fairly good idea. I think you could solve the moving around bit somehow. I will let you know when I think of a safe way.


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## reptishack101 (Feb 4, 2011)

i yous expanda foam i spray a big blob then it expans 3 times the size and then i carve it to the shape i want and hollow the inside out then paint it with that paint from bunnings that feels like rocks when dry, they yous it in houses as a feature wall its expansive but looks great then i do a coat of non toxic matt finish so its not all glossy when i buy the paint if i dont like the colour they got there i ask them to change it up a little to look like i want it to they usually dont charge extra for this, this also works well for backgrounds and the paint is made to last the great aussie heat so shouldent crack with heat like cement and grout can

for expanda foam i just yous ether a sharp Stanly knife or a glass ingraver my dad had lying in the shed for years they cost about $20 for a cheap one and anything higher for an expansive one just a Stanly knife is good for smaller jobs small being a 600mm by 600mm back ground and large being 1200mm by 600mm i started yousing the Stanly knife but have resantly found out the glass ingraver works 3 times quicker also its trial and eror but just remember if you cut it wrong you can always patch it up with more foam till its they way you want it


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## dylan-rocks (Feb 4, 2011)

caution do not use any spray paint on stiro foam because it turns into something like acid that melts and burns it away


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## J-A-X (Feb 4, 2011)

A hacksaw blade works well on expanda foam. And a bit easier to control than a Stanley blade. They (Stanley blades) can easily slip if it hits a hard bit, please be super careful with Stanley knives a good friend slashed an artery when one slipped.
@ saximus can I link this thread in the DIY group ? It's exactly the sort of thing we're after.


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## hornet (Feb 4, 2011)

A good mould would be a suitable sized bowl or food storage container. Just cut an entry hole and start from there. For hides the expanda foam method would be best to get the basic shape and add bits of polystyrene into it before it hardens to get your desired look. Generally the expanda foam has a natural uneven surface when it hardens so you only really need to trim off any abnormally large lumps. Then you can paint it with a cement/paint mix like danny suggested and you can also mix in some sand to give it a rough texture. If your a bit arty you can mix up some natural colored paints and give it a more natural look with the varying shades


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## saximus (Feb 4, 2011)

Jax: Feel free to link it. You guys have been so helpful how could I say no 

Hornet: I was actually thinking something like a big salad bowl for the round shape so cheers for confirming. I'm not really "arty" (being an engineer and all) but I definitely think I have some great ideas now.
I'll post pics when I finally have time to make them


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## hornet (Feb 4, 2011)

You can still get a great look from using a single tone but when using multiple shades it just makes it look so much more natural. Get plenty of pics of the construction process


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## LippyM (Feb 4, 2011)

For moulds, I use the plastic storage boxes you get from Go-Lo, they start at about $5 depending on the size. For smaller snakes, the decor 5 litre red lunchboxes work well. You can get big ones - about 15-20 litre for under $10.

For my lizards I have also used 'In-trays' ... the plastic ones that are stackable that you find on any office desk. No need to make an entrance hole for these.

Melt an entrance to the container with a soldering iron or cut with a stanley knife. I find the soldering iron better because sometimes the plastic can be brittle and stan can snap it. If you use the soldering iron do it in a well ventilated area as the plastic will give off fumes as it melts.

Cover with expanda foam .... wear disposable gloves! ..... pat down lightly as you go to so it smooths out a little and doesn't look like long strands of turds! 

Leave for 24 hours and then paint. Don't bother with grout or cement on expanda foam because it doesn't stick very well (even with bondcrete in it). I use cheap fence paint in mission brown or green as a base and then highlight with cheap tubes of acrylic paint from the $2 shop. 

I find sponges - the ones with the harsh green side and the yellow sponge bit - are great for applying paint affects, and spray paint works a treat as well.

One large can of expanda foam does one large hide (15 litre container) and one small hide (5 litre lunchbox) and an In-Tray.

I'm just starting out but having a great time making stuff, and I'm getting a bit carried away getting foam from dumpsters outside shops! 

I've done a couple of backgrounds, some hides and just some random formations for my lizards to climb under or over.

I still use alot of natural things like real rocks and branches, but made stuff is much easier to clean.

P.S. Old style foam eskies also make a great base for a hide for smaller snakes & lizards


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## saximus (Feb 4, 2011)

Nice work Lippy they look really nice. Do you need to put something on the mould so the foam doesn't stick to it or can you just pull it out once it's dry?


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## LippyM (Feb 4, 2011)

saximus said:


> Nice work Lippy they look really nice. Do you need to put something on the mould so the foam doesn't stick to it or can you just pull it out once it's dry?


 
Thanks! These were my first attempts, the ones I have on the go are improving!

I haven't figured a way to get the container out...because the foam expands so much and so it gets into the rim where the lid would sit on the container if it was the right way around.

I haven't given it a huge amount of thought yet but will because it would be so much better to re-use the container as a mould. 

I reckon if you could stop the foam getting into the rim it would be easy to pry it apart when the foam is about 70% set. 

I have tried half heartedly when doing one but I think the next one I'll give it a good yank and see how hard it is to get out.

Expanda foam doesn't have many good points, but one of them is that it takes hours to fully set so if you damage it in any way in the early stages then it keeps expanding to cover up your mistake!


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## LizardLady (Feb 4, 2011)

Hi all!

I've made hides for my geckos using foam balls (from Craft Shops), Bondcrete (used for sticking tiles to a floor), and Grout colour.

First cut ball in half, 'scoop' out the middle (not too much, you'll need a little bit of thickness to make it sturdy)...

Then break off (or cut) an entrance...

Mix Bondcrete and Grout colour with water to make a thick paste... 

With a paint-brush, dab on 'paste', inside and out, paying particular attention to any cracks or crevices. If you do it 'roughly', it will look better (imo)...

Sprinkle sand (your choice of colour, I used Red Desert Sand) over the 'hide' whilst still wet, so the sand will set with the Bondcrete...

Set aside to dry...

Here are the photographic 'steps'...

You are now only limited by your imagination!

Hope this helps!

Best,
Carolyn


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## saximus (Feb 4, 2011)

They look awesome Carolyn. Man so many awesome ideas. How big can you get those foam balls? My Jungle will need something fairly decent sized. Thanks everyone for the suggestions and ideas. Keep them coming 
How do you get one of these turned into a sticky? I think it would be quite helpful for new DIYers.


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## J-A-X (Feb 4, 2011)

Maybe if we push hard enough we could have our own space on the forum.... that would be awesome....

as well as the 'in-box' suggestion, you could use kitty litter trays, only $2 from the local 'reject' type of shop. For the larger hides i wouldn't worry about removing the mould, it will add a bit of strength to it. expanda foam isn't known for its strength over a larger area with no support. A kitty litter tray would easily fit a 6ft snake both in it and on top of it. 

great to see people now taking progress shots, a picture paints a thousand words so they say, yours almost look like coconut halves Carolyn.


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## saximus (Feb 4, 2011)

Great suggestion Jax. We just need a mod to read this now and get it rolling *ahem* Fay if you're reading this...

When you paint the cement or whatever onto it does that add a lot of weight? Like was mentioned earlier I worry about the bigger ones being able to shift them and even knock them off and damage it or themselves.


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## J-A-X (Feb 4, 2011)

I saw Colin floating around on one of the other threads.....

the paint won't add any significant weight to it. and with larger hides, as long as it is stable and on the floor, Heavier is better. it wont be dragged around the enclosure. If its going on a shelf then maybe think about putting a 'lip' on the shelf so it doesn't shift and keep the weight to a minimum.


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## LippyM (Feb 4, 2011)

Jaxrtfm said:


> the paint won't add any significant weight to it. and with larger hides, as long as it is stable and on the floor, Heavier is better. it wont be dragged around the enclosure. If its going on a shelf then maybe think about putting a 'lip' on the shelf so it doesn't shift and keep the weight to a minimum.


 
Yep, a lip on high shelves works great. I made my shelves to fit my hides and the dowel holds them in place.






I don't have alot of experience with snakes ones on the ground as mine sit up high, but for my lizards who have substrate you just squish it down in there and it doesn't move.

My hides with the foam on them and 3-4 coats of paint and varnish are totally lightweight and wouldn't harm an animal if they managed to knock it over.

My 2yr old Bredli hasn't shifted one even during shedding. His favourite spot is actually sitting on top of one.


For the backgrounds, my first one I did with cement and the weight of it was ridiculous. After switching to tile grout it's lightweight and easy to manoeuvre.

P.S. Another mould for smaller animals is go to Bunnings and buy a $1 or $2 bucket they they usually have on special at the end of aisles and cut the bottom out about 3-4 inches from the bottom, turn it upside down and cut an entrance. Cheap as!! 
Great size for juvenile morelia or antaresia


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## Colin (Feb 4, 2011)

saximus said:


> How do you get one of these turned into a sticky? I think it would be quite helpful for new DIYers.



thread is now stuck..


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## J-A-X (Feb 4, 2011)

*sigh* thanks for making it a sticky Colin, but how about our own DIY section..... pretty please sugar on top, can you sweet talk the admin on our behalf.? The DIY group has taken off really well, but it has its limitations.


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## Colin (Feb 4, 2011)

Jaxrtfm said:


> *sigh* thanks for making it a sticky Colin, but how about our own DIY section..... pretty please sugar on top, can you sweet talk the admin on our behalf.? The DIY group has taken off really well, but it has its limitations.



no probs.. I like the enthusiasm and ideas in this thread and other DIY type threads. It would be best to submit this idea and proposal to admin via the support centre and see what they say. personally I think its a good idea for a DIY section but its not my decision.


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## saximus (Feb 4, 2011)

Hehe thanks a lot Colin. I feel so special I got a sticky


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## J-A-X (Feb 4, 2011)

woohoo guys and girls lets go...............

the support centre link is right at the bottom of the page for those that dont know where it is......


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## LizardLady (Feb 4, 2011)

saximus said:


> They look awesome Carolyn. Man so many awesome ideas. How big can you get those foam balls? My Jungle will need something fairly decent sized. Thanks everyone for the suggestions and ideas. Keep them coming
> How do you get one of these turned into a sticky? I think it would be quite helpful for new DIYers.



Hey Saximus! Thank you for your kind words, 'preciate it! 

The beauty about using this method is they are very lightweight - even if something unfortunate was to happen, any animal will wriggle it's way out from underneath it quite easily, even a gecko (although mine DIG under them!)

As for what size do these balls come in - HEAPS! Originally, I was going to make them into 'igloos', but after doing the first one, just thought a simple 'hut' (or "coconut", if you like!) would be more beneficial. Nice and cosy inside!

Another suggestion - for a long 'tunnel' type, is to use a length of PVC pipe, pop a garbage bag (or freezer bag, depending on the size) over the pipe, coat it with Vaseline (or some such), and go from there. When dried, just take the bag and pipe out, and you are left with a pretty nifty and lightweight 'log'!

Like I said, you are now only limited by your imagination!

Have fun!

Best,
Carolyn


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## Deejay (Feb 5, 2011)

awsome hide Dylan-rocks!!!!!


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## reptishack101 (Feb 5, 2011)

for expanda foam if you want to keep the mold just smother it in Vaseline then spry the foam ontop of the vasoline when it drys it should just come of it works with all my hides


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## andy.robbo (Feb 7, 2011)

*Ponds*

Has anyone used the expanda foam with the mould up the other way to make a little fake pond?

Robbo


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## melluvssnakes (Feb 7, 2011)

If you wanted to make a pond I probably wouldn't use expanda-foam. Try cement or grout covered in pondtite. I don't think the foam would be water tight, even with a sealer on it.


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## saximus (Feb 7, 2011)

I haven't but I've read that if it's in constant contact with water it can start to deteriorate


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## andy.robbo (Feb 8, 2011)

Would it be possible to work with expanda foam on a vertical surface? Instead of 3d foam sheets, could you do the fake rock effect straight on the wall of the enclosure?
Or will it not stick well enough?

Robbo


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## dylan-rocks (Feb 8, 2011)

Deejay said:


> awsome hide Dylan-rocks!!!!!



thansk Deejay


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## J-A-X (Feb 8, 2011)

I would suggest it would depend on the surface that you are sticking it to, some laminate/melamine seems to almost be teflon coated when you're trying to paint it. If its unsealed timber / mdf then you may be ok. I dont think i would trust it to support the weight of anything to heavy, it would probably be ok for geckos, small lizards, small adult snakes,, but not anything with any sort of weight.


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## russellman (Feb 8, 2011)

These are my hides, went with a aztec theme. All made with polystyrene covered in grout and painted. Pretty happy with the outcome.


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## saximus (Feb 8, 2011)

Russellman that never fails to impress me. Nice job


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## Trouble (Feb 8, 2011)

LizardLady said:


> Hi all!
> I've made hides for my geckos using foam balls (from Craft Shops), Bondcrete (used for sticking tiles to a floor), and Grout colour.
> Carolyn



Thanks heaps for the idea, Carolyn!
Here's my attempt at them, while stuck in hospital (limited access to anything lol) The cleaners weren't too happy with me in the morning :lol::lol::lol:



They're a pretty awful colour, because the lady at the craft shop told me that green & orange make brown! ahh, wrong. but they're alright for my first try.

Russellman, that enclosure set up is nice! I love the Aztec theme


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## russellman (Feb 8, 2011)

Haha thanks. i like the foam ball idea. do they only come in balls? can u get triangle or squares?


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## Trouble (Feb 8, 2011)

from what I saw, there were all different size balls, and some really thin, narrow round pyramid shapes and stars. I'm not sure what other shops would have though


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## saximus (Feb 8, 2011)

Trouble where did you go to get them? I'm staying in Ippy for a few months so I might take a wander and see if it's nearby


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## Jimbobulan (Feb 9, 2011)

hi all i used expanda foam for a fake rock background in a frog tank. I used black silicone on the side walls of the tank to hide the messy looking foam, then sprayed the stuff all over the back in the way i wanted it (it was more of spray and hope). Then i used a terracotta coloured silicone on the wall with red desert sand on top for texture and stuff. Also i put a thick hose on the wall before i sprayed so i could run a smaller hose from the filter pump to run down the wall.






The first pic is the black silicone then just shots of the wall


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## saximus (Feb 9, 2011)

That looks fantastic Jim. When I started this thread I never expected to get so many incredible looking ideas


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## Jimbobulan (Feb 9, 2011)

i got the idea from a website someone posted on here that showed how to make backgrounds in a similar way but instead of using red silicone and sand they used black silicone and coco fibre (that stuff you can get in brick form). it also showed how to put little planters in it and used drift wood for an awesome look i'll try to find it for you guys

Found this, its not the one i was looking for but its cool.
http://www.vivariumforum.com/Dart-Frog-Vivarium-Rack-Construction-Log
And this one has heaps
Vivarium


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## J-A-X (Feb 9, 2011)

just in case anyone has missed it I have a poll going DIY Zone on the forum, good idea or not ? to try and convince Admin that we need a DIY zone on the forum for exactly this type of thread, there are so many creative people out there and so many others looking for ideas that we need to have it all in one place,
Seeing some of the frog tanks it almost makes me want to get into frogs....


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## gillsy (Feb 9, 2011)

dylan-rocks said:


> caution do not use any spray paint on stiro foam because it turns into something like acid that melts and burns it away



You can get foam primer, that allows you to spray paint on foam. I use it for my RC Planes all the time.


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## Absolutely_Mad (Feb 12, 2011)

this one was done with grout then painted dark brown, I let it dry then used a dry sponge with orange, white and red lightly, i will coat it in aquadhere, should i give the aquadhere the recommended drying and curing time or longer because my ackies will be in contact with it? - thanks


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## J-A-X (Feb 12, 2011)

I hope you have done quite a few coats with the grout, its not a strong material, concrete or render is the prefered option for claws. but it looks great though. just make sure it wont get wet, the PVA will soften when wet,


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## Absolutely_Mad (Feb 12, 2011)

hopefully it will hold up im using the strongest aquadhere available, the bottle says waterproof but I doubts it is fully waterproof should be fine in a drier tank. but ill go over parts of it with more grout and see how it goes


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## J-A-X (Feb 12, 2011)

make sure you post pics when its in the tank....


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## abnrmal91 (Feb 13, 2011)

I was at bunnings today and they have a cardboard dome which is used as a liner for hanging plant baskets. I think it would make a good mold for a large hide.


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## KaotikJezta (Mar 9, 2011)

abnrmal91 said:


> I was at bunnings today and they have a cardboard dome which is used as a liner for hanging plant baskets. I think it would make a good mold for a large hide.



I was looking at the cocopeat ones the other day thinking the same thing, they are only $2 in golo

I thought of another cool idea, get old bike helmets from op shops and rip out the Styrofoam innards.


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## diamond 007 (Mar 25, 2011)

Great set up and hides......


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## dangles (Mar 31, 2011)

just a question, do you use sand and cement mix or just cement? about to start some of my own


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## pseudechis4740 (Mar 31, 2011)

Go down to a discount store and look through their melamine bowls and vases. They come in a variety of sizes suitable for anything from neonates through to adult BHPs. Then get a hole saw and cut a hole in what would be the base (soon to become the top) of the required size. The material is impervious to moisture, so it will last forever and is easy to clean. You can choose to decorate the exterior in any way you please or just leave it standard which is how I choose to leave them for cleaning purposes,


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## Miss-Mac (Apr 28, 2011)

Hey guys. The creative cage in my head was left unlocked and I have now made a hock hide out of clay and I was wondering if a clay hide would be fine to acutally use after it had dried. (Planing on getting a Bearded in the near months or so) Just thought I would see what people thought. The photo dosen't do it justice xD It is quite big and I made it so s/hes able to bask and laze around on top.


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## KaotikJezta (Apr 28, 2011)

Miss-Mac said:


> Hey guys. The creative cage in my head was left unlocked and I have now made a hock hide out of clay and I was wondering if a clay hide would be fine to acutally use after it had dried. (Planing on getting a Bearded in the near months or so) Just thought I would see what people thought. The photo dosen't do it justice xD It is quite big and I made it so s/hes able to bask and laze around on top.
> 
> View attachment 197719


That is really cool, is it air drying clay. It should be ok but if it is not fired you wont be able to get it to wet.


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## Miss-Mac (Apr 28, 2011)

kaotikjezta said:


> That is really cool, is it air drying clay. It should be ok but if it is not fired you wont be able to get it to wet.



Yes it is, I've got like 8kg(I think) of clay so I just wanted to make sure befor I made anymore.


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## python_boy (Apr 28, 2011)

shoebox and sissors


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## melluvssnakes (May 29, 2011)

I was doing my grocery shopping tonight at IGA and found what I'm pretty sure are supposed to be camping wash up tubs. About 35cm diameter, and probably 10cm high. Only $6. I plan on putting expanda foam over them, then painting and sealing. I want it to look like a rock, but still be easily cleaned...


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## varanus (May 30, 2011)

Plenty of artistic diversity. Given the use of mediums, most of which I have in the shed - must give it a burl.

Thanks for sharing images and ideas.


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## zacthefrog (Jun 14, 2011)

all i do if spray out a whole can of expanding foam shape it to the perfect shape that i like, then flexigrit it, and then it looks really naturall


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## Reptile_Maniac (Jun 29, 2011)

Hi all,
I cut a small hole in a take-away container and paint it.
James (Reptilemaniac)


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## Chris1 (Jun 29, 2011)

air drying clay is awesome, i pressed it into a few different sized bowls and used a spoon to scoop out the entry hole,...

but like has already been mentioned, you cant get it too wet, and they can break pretty easily, but at 5 bucks for 5-10 hides who really cares? 

im sure they could be grouted and lacquered too if i could be bothered,....


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## SpilotaFreak78 (Jul 1, 2011)

I don't have an adult python but I made my hide out of the leftovers of her heat mat box


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## feathergrass (Aug 11, 2011)

was just thinking would it be possible to after you have shaped and dried air dry clay into what you want to spray it with something like crystal kote matt like we use to spray over paintings and stuff the kids have done to *keep* them?


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## frogboy77 (Sep 10, 2011)

python_boy said:


> shoebox and sissors



perfect idea, how did you come up with that one?..... duh:lol:


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## JungleManSam (Oct 22, 2011)

Heres a look at one I made for the first time  Polystyrene does the trick with some grout, green acrylic paint and I hav'nt sealed it yet 

View attachment 222770
View attachment 222771
View attachment 222772
View attachment 222773


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## hubzo (Nov 29, 2011)

polystyrene sheets, cut them to any size, shape them, glue little pieces together bit by bit to make ornaments. or glue sheets to plywood or back of tank to make a background and carve grooves in the foam. waterproof with aqua tite, grout them with a flexible tile grout of whichever colour you like, you can use a non toxic paint in grooves for highlights and shadow effects. or if you cant find the right colour grout you can alter the colours.


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## Ramsayi (Nov 29, 2011)

Just had a quick skim through the thread so I'm not sure if it has already been mentioned or not but a hide should be nice and snug for the animal that its intended for.A lot of the suggestions in the thread are more like a cave,might look ok but not the best for the occupant.


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## Colin (Dec 3, 2011)

*Arboreal Hide Boxes*
Ive posted this a few times but for those people who haven't seen them.. These plastic hides aren’t an original idea of mine.. I’ve found them easy to install, cheap to make and they seem to quickly become a favourite for most pythons.

The black plastic tubs used, cost a few dollars and are available at some of those $2 shops. The hide is snug enough to hold the weight of the snake and still able to be slid in and out for easy cleaning.

*To construct:*
I used 1.5mm x 1.5mm x 1.6mm aluminium channel (available from Bunning’s) and drilled three small holes through each piece of channel the thickness of the screws. On the underside of the channel (that faces the cage floor) I drilled out the holes slightly wider so I could fit the screw head and screwdriver through to tighten the screws up. The main thing to watch for is to screw in the first piece of aluminium channel closest to the side of enclosure, and then fit the tub into the groove and slide on the second bit of channel. Squeeze it up close, but not too tight, as it needs to slide in and out for cleaning. Mark with a sharp tool through the screw holes, the position for drilling the holes for the screws of the second piece. If you have one, use one of those plastic drill guards to prevent drilling too deep into the roof, otherwise you can go through to the enclosure above. The round hole in the tub was made with the largest size hole saw drill attachment, but you could just cut a square one out with a knife too. the edges or the aluminium are filed smooth and there never been a problem with sharp edges. Ive been using these hides for over 5+ years.

you can also use one of the tubs with entrance hole, overturned on the cage floor as an alternative to the arboreal one. by far these are the favourite hides of all morelia and some even lay clutches in them even when given a nest box with spaghnum moss to lay in.


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## saximus (Dec 3, 2011)

Thanks for adding that to this thread Col. They look quite nice and sounds easy to install. I might stop off at the reject shop this afternoon


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## Colin (Dec 3, 2011)

no probs saximus. there very easy to make, functional and easy to clean and disinfect when needed. and best of all the snakes love them and feel very secure.


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## abnrmal91 (Dec 9, 2011)

Here is a hide I knocked up quickly today. I found some spare tiles at work (no one actually knew why they where there, so I grabbed them lol) I used 2 tiles to make it. Used 1 as a top then cut the other tile into 3 pieces to create a hide with 3 sides and a top. I used Selleys Liquid Nail Original to glue it all together. I will give it a week or two to cure properly before it my snake gets it.














I think my Darwin will love it.


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## cools2036 (Jan 14, 2012)

The best method ive found is thick blocks of white styro foam for hides and shets for backgrounds, i simply carve the shape i want using a crushed glass sandpaper (from bunnings $2 a pack) a gyprock saw and a hack saw blade, then once ive reacjhed the desired shape i mix some PVA WOOD glue with water 3/1 and give the peice 2-3 good coats. then i do 1 last coat at the same water glue ratio but mix some non slip paint addative to it ( bunnings about $9) to give it a stone texture ( not as abrasive as sand) then its now safe to paint without the foam melting, i first spray with a matt black ( this gives good defenition in all those cracks and creveses (mind the spelling) i carved out earlier. then after its dried i start to dry brush using three colours, a dark brown/desert red/light orangey yellow. starting from darkest colour to lightest staying away from the cracks and making sure to wipe most of the paint of the brush (less is more with dry brushing) gives it great defenition and a very natural look. does take time for each stage but well worth it in th end. then final coat with a satin clear to seal it. done!


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## JUNGLE-JAK (Jan 29, 2012)

or just find a rock and put plaster over half
once dry get ome cablecutters and put a semi circle on one of the sides


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## Maseface (Jan 31, 2012)

Hey, just whacked this together. Cut some pipe and stuck it together with hot glue. My Coco peat is arriving tomorrow or the day after. Im going to glue the peat over the surface of the pipe, im just curious what is a safe glue to use? i was thinking like PVA glue or something similar. Any suggestions? and yes. Look sideways haha.


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## Trouble (Feb 2, 2012)

Maseface said:


> Hey, just whacked this together. Cut some pipe and stuck it together with hot glue. My Coco peat is arriving tomorrow or the day after. Im going to glue the peat over the surface of the pipe, im just curious what is a safe glue to use? i was thinking like PVA glue or something similar. Any suggestions? and yes. Look sideways haha.



Maseface, not wanting to burst your bubble, but the whole point of a hide is so the animal feels secure - so it has somewhere to _hide_. 
Cutting & fitting the piping the way you have isn't giving the reptile any chance of that, it can see what's going on outside, and you can still see it and it wont feel secure. 
If you covered the walls so the hide was closed in, that would be better. But, just my opinion, you will find the reptile wont use the hide & will try to shelter somewhere else.


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## Maseface (Feb 3, 2012)

Trouble said:


> Maseface, not wanting to burst your bubble, but the whole point of a hide is so the animal feels secure - so it has somewhere to _hide_.
> Cutting & fitting the piping the way you have isn't giving the reptile any chance of that, it can see what's going on outside, and you can still see it and it wont feel secure.
> If you covered the walls so the hide was closed in, that would be better. But, just my opinion, you will find the reptile wont use the hide & will try to shelter somewhere else.




Sorry I didnt specify. It's for a tarantula. And I have a black cardboard cover the goes over the entire left wall and lower front...


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## Kylec (Feb 3, 2012)

i made my own hide out of a lump of sand stone i simply got a hammer drill (10 mm drill piece and an 25 mm chisel piece) then took to the stone with it. very cheap (as i found the stone) and easy. plus it has the added benifit of me getting almost exactly what i wanted. 



the first pic being a shot from the back showing the hide. the second showing the entry and some climbing groves. the third shot a underside shot showing the cave like roof and the forth just another side on shot hoping to show some more detail in the climbing grove i carved, this took me about half hour to make. how ever if i had of brought this at a shop, it would have taking a couple of hours at work to afford and i wouldnt have gotten what i have, so im very proud of my work


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## saximus (Feb 3, 2012)

That looks really cool Kylec. It looks a lot harder to get such a good result than what you make out. How long did it take?


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## Kylec (Feb 3, 2012)

y about half an hour maybe just a little longer but sand stone is a soft material so it was fairly easy the only bad thing is my coastal is consantly in there and its a heavy hide to move lol


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## engineerk9 (Feb 14, 2012)

A clay plant-pot, cut a hole in the side, just big enough for the snake to slither thru'


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## dragonlover1 (Apr 8, 2012)

Jaxrtfm said:


> the only down side with the expand foam is that it isn't strong enough over a large horizontal area without some support under it, what size animal are you planning on using it for ?



I built a cave for a tortoise enclosure a few years ago using expanda foam,then painted and sealed it but the claws ripped into it a bit.Foam might be good for snakes .How about something for dragons that the claws wont damage?



melluvssnakes said:


> If you wanted to make a pond I probably wouldn't use expanda-foam. Try cement or grout covered in pondtite. I don't think the foam would be water tight, even with a sealer on it.



I built a tortoise enviro with expanda foam,painted then sealed with marine varnish because I was worried about toxicity.No problem with leakage.



andy.robbo said:


> Would it be possible to work with expanda foam on a vertical surface? Instead of 3d foam sheets, could you do the fake rock effect straight on the wall of the enclosure?
> Or will it not stick well enough?
> 
> Robbo



sticks to glass well enough, to support the roof of the cave I used a bit of cardboard


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## J-A-X (Apr 8, 2012)

Painted foam isn't strong at all, even against larger snakes, for small hides, several layers of render will strengthen the hide. For larger ones a support of some kind is recommended prior to rendering, again several layers - the larger the claws the more layers required. Sealer doesn't add strength, it just stops the surface absorbing water/urine.


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## cools2036 (Apr 27, 2012)

My routine for foam creations/walls is 2 coats waterproofing 7 coats of render+oxide.
This gives a 5-9mm solid coat of hard surface.
Not even full grown monitor claws will peirce it.

Use chicken wire re-inforcment prior to rendering for bigger objects.


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## JasonMini (Nov 23, 2012)

Maseface said:


> Hey, just whacked this together. Cut some pipe and stuck it together with hot glue. My Coco peat is arriving tomorrow or the day after. Im going to glue the peat over the surface of the pipe, im just curious what is a safe glue to use? i was thinking like PVA glue or something similar. Any suggestions? and yes. Look sideways haha.



I have been thinking of doing something like this for my Strenuus, love how u've curved it around the tank, looks great!


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## Reptiles4me (Dec 15, 2012)

Hey you could make a mould then fill with plaster or anything that sets rock hard.
1. Take a box and fill with foam or clay anything like that.
2. Make a well in the foam (before it drys).
3. Shape the well with rough edges or anything you want.
4. Coat the well (several times) with cement and sealer.
5. Add a lubricant to the mould (to prevent the plaster from sticking to the mould).
6. Poor in (slowly) plaster.
7. When set ,tip the mould upside down and tap the bottom, the rock/hide/water & food dish should just pop out.
8. Paint and seal. Can't help you with paint and sealer brands because I'm not to sure witch ones to use myself. Sorry about that.


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