# A week on Coburg



## SteveNT (Oct 27, 2012)

Just got back from a week at Gurig Garnik Barlu National Park on Cobourg Peninsular, North West Arnhem Land. Second most northerly point on mainland Australia (after Cape York). It is about 3,000 square km of terrestrial and marine national park and RAMSAR listed Wetlands. There are about 30 people total living here. Only ten vehicles are allowed in the Park at one time. For half of the week we were the only "visitors" there. We never saw a footprint on a beach we hadnt put there ourselves!

Croc Crossing! This is the exit point for a massive freshwater swamp that sits behind the beaches. Crocs cross daily.















The beaches are beautiful, the water crystal and the coral reefs stunning.




























Some critters

1- male Ta-ta Dragon 2- Carlia gracilis 3- female Ta-ta 4- Golden orb spider













1- giant anenome (these guys can be several hundred years old) 2- the rockpools are full of fish 3- whistling kite family trying to sort out a sandwich they have acquired 4- Frilly














You need to be watchful wherever you are.
These fresh croc tracks head up the beach and down to this freshwater soak behind it. There are many parasites that infest the crocs including fist sized sea lice and they get rid of them by soaking in fresh water. 20 years ago I was flattened on a beach like this by a 16 footer that panicked as I walked past and took off back to the sea, knocking me over on the way. :shock:















Part 2 coming soon


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## Stuart (Oct 27, 2012)

Steve, that's some stunning scenery and photos. I am honestly jealous.

just curious, what are the permit requirements for visiting areas like this or is it a strictly invite only area?


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## Radar (Oct 27, 2012)

Looks great, packing my stuff now ;P


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## SteveNT (Oct 27, 2012)

SniperCap said:


> Steve, that's some stunning scenery and photos. I am honestly jealous.
> 
> just curious, what are the permit requirements for visiting areas like this or is it a strictly invite only area?



Park is only open May to October. Only 10 vehicles at a time, $240 for the permit (1 week only).

You have to bring all of your own fuel, ice, food, etc. The nearest shop is at Gunbalanya, 250km away. We took eskis full of block ice and still had cold beer on day 7. The sea provided most of our food, huge black lipped oysters, heaps of fish, mud crabs (no pots allowed- you have to hook them out) and painted crays (speared while drifting over the reefs).

We go last week of the open season because the sea glasses off and we can get around in the micro tinnie. It can get pretty blowy in the cool season- June to August).

I lived here from 1989 to 1992. Very hard to adjust to the "real world" when you go back.


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## BIGBANG (Oct 27, 2012)

awesome mate did ya come across the croc leaving the tracks?


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## SteveNT (Oct 27, 2012)

BIGBANG said:


> awesome mate did ya come across the croc leaving the tracks?



Yea we came across a few but it's so hot now they stay in the water and dont offer too many photos.


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## Jande (Oct 27, 2012)

Also jealous. We've not had much of a chance to get away for more than a day trip since we moved up here. Probably won't be able to before we move back to Qld in January either. Oh well, I'll just keep drooling over all of your photos! They're amazing and I'm glad you're able to get out and really see the place.


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## Stuart (Oct 27, 2012)

Well I know what I'm going to do next year. 

Might need to buy a cheap 4 wheel drive and do a bit of planning, but I'm sure as he** going there next oct fo a birthday trip. 

Thanks for the info mate.


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## SteveNT (Oct 27, 2012)

Part 2

Freshwater Wetlands (one of the first RAMSAR Wetlands listed in Oz.)
Pretty low now but the storms are here and they will fill quickly.















Coburg has been hit by 3 cyclones in 5 years and one produced a big storm surge on a high tide, meaning salt got into the swamp killing many paperbarks.






Black lip oyster were everywhere, delicious raw or cooked in the shell. Daz returning yesterdays oyster shells to the sea.











Some bits and pieces

Coral/ Beach caves (very cool!)/ Wolf Spider/ Reef of large plate corals emerging on low tide. At high tide we trolled over the reef for coral trout and striped snapper.















1 + 5- The Bandicoots did an excellent job of cleaning up after dinner. 2- Darlyn brings down fresh beverages at sunset. 3- While sitting on this dune a day earlier a 7 foot coastal taipan glided out of the bush in the foreground. We had a staring contest for 5 minutes then he moved on. I bolted back to the car for the camera but he was gone when I got back. For me the most exciting and disappointing event of the trip. 4- Bauxite, there are huge reserves on Cobourg (as well as manganese) but the mineral survey boys spent their time here fishing and drinking beer and didnt notice. The region is now protected but the new government here wont rule out oil and gas exploration.

















Sunsets were awesome


















1- Lunch- foil wrapped stripy snapper cooked on the coals 2- A wild looking weevil 3- The ancient Jeep was flawless on the Cobourg track, a notorious car killer 4- the mouth of Caiman Creek.














Finally dont forget that lures can catch you too. We had to hold the giant herring to stop it wriggling while getting the hooks out of it, then cut the barbs off the treble to get it out of Daz'z arm. Luckily no veins were severed because we were a long way from help!









Lucky we had our beer anaethsetic kit with us (the middle seat of the micro tinny contains a stainless steel beer eski.)

- - - Updated - - -



SniperCap said:


> Well I know what I'm going to do next year.
> 
> Might need to buy a cheap 4 wheel drive and do a bit of planning, but I'm sure as he** going there next oct fo a birthday trip.
> 
> Thanks for the info mate.



Dont forget to invite me- great place for a birthday!

You need a couple of things- 

The 4WD needs to be in good nick (no toy 4WDs), there's 200km of massive corrugations. We picked up an air conditioner compressor from a Cruiser sitting on the road. (Hot trip for them!)

You need a boat. There is only one road plus a very sandy track along a section of the coast. Boat is the only way to get around if you want to see a lot of the place.

We brought huge purpose built ice eskis for this trip. We ran out last trip. (Warm beer on a hot beach sucks) There are two camp grounds and one allows (quiet) generators so you can run an Engel if you have one.


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## tropicbreeze (Oct 27, 2012)

Hate to be pedantic, but it's Garig Gunak Barlu 

Got out there a couple of years back, right on the end of the wet, one of the first lot in. Got in before the graders, they were still working around Murgenella. Really great. Wouldn't mind getting back out there again.


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## SteveNT (Oct 27, 2012)

You're right. When I lived there it was just called Gurig National Park. 

I loved the Wet out there. I had a three bedroom house overlooking Coral Bay.

- - - Updated - - -

For the 4WDers and Herpers I would like to reccommend these little 30W Cree LED spots. I have them mounted slightly outwards and the illumination of the centre, but especially, the sides (and off to the sides) of the road was brilliant. They cost about $150 a pair off ebay and if you want to really SEE what you are driving through they get my 100% approval. I have a couple of 55W halogens mounted too (small targets for the inevitable incoming stones) and they are good for up the track but the LEDs really flood the surroundings.






And finally I would like to thank...

The micro tinny for 10 years of fabulous adventures in places all those big boats can never reach

Darlyn, well she's just a legend

and Daz, a regular companion on our travels (who REALLY likes his tucker )












And last of all my battered old body for staying upright through all the crap I have subjected it to.






I think the Daly River might be next :lol:


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## Darlyn (Oct 31, 2012)

Yes, Darlyn is a legend : )


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## SteveNT (Oct 31, 2012)

Mainly for the ability to face plant off a camp chair, not spill a drop of cider and consume the blacklip oyster in the other hand while still sideways in the sand :lol:


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## cement (Oct 31, 2012)

I just got back from 2 mnths camping at cape york and nth Qld, I know what you mean about trying to adjust back to civilzation.
Nice shots of a nice place mate.


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## imported_Varanus (Nov 1, 2012)

SteveNT said:


> Mainly for the ability to face plant off a camp chair, not spill a drop of cider and consume the blacklip oyster in the other hand while still sideways in the sand :lol:



A pic of that would be almost as good as the scenery shots! She IS a legend!!


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## Wild~Touch (Nov 1, 2012)

imported_Varanus said:


> A pic of that would be almost as good as the scenery shots! She IS a legend!!



Darlyns mum must have instilled it in her not to waste sustenance  

Cheers
Sandee


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## moosenoose (Nov 1, 2012)

That fishing mishap didn't look all that enjoyable...but the photos are magic as always


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## Justdragons (Nov 1, 2012)

Your life is amazing.. i wish i could get just a taste of your adventures.. keep these threads coming


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## Darlyn (Nov 1, 2012)

Wild~Touch said:


> Darlyns mum must have instilled it in her not to waste sustenance
> 
> Cheers
> Sandee


With the cider in one hand and the oyster in the other, I ran out of hands to get myself upright : )

IV if the boys ran for a camera instead of helping me, there would have been serious consequences..........
So no pic : )


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## imported_Varanus (Nov 1, 2012)

Darlyn said:


> IV if the boys ran for a camera instead of helping me, there would have been serious consequences..........
> So no pic : )



Ha, ha.... and you might have got sand in your oyster!


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## SteveNT (Nov 1, 2012)

VenomOOse said:


> That fishing mishap didn't look all that enjoyable...but the photos are magic as always



Daz is no wimp as you can see from the grin. He shook my hand at the end of a tense, painful and difficult process (very limited resources) and we continued on.

The photos are for me. Always happy to share if others like them.


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