# Red eyed GTF



## Menagerie (Mar 6, 2005)

Hi everyone,

Have bought a frog set up and am sending away for my froggy licence tomorrow (pity it's not on our reptile licence!!!). I was hoping to get red eyed GTF. Have heard that they are harder to keep than GTFs, but so far haven't been able to find a care sheet for them anywhere.

Any hints, tips or caresheets? Your help would be much appreciated.


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## Guest (Mar 6, 2005)

Do u have a caresheet for a GTF?
if not u can get one at www.reefandriver.com.au as for red eyes i have no idea.


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## trader (Mar 6, 2005)

I am positive the advertiser of Ad 504-506 Red eyed Green Tree Frog (litoria chloris) babies 2-3 cm, on the HerpTrader would be able to help you with a care sheet Menagerie.

Cheers, Judy


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## instar (Mar 6, 2005)

Theres a GTF caresheet in this forum :wink: 

http://www.aussiepythons.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=7051

Red eyes care is very similar, not much I could find Specific
http://luke_zecevic.tripod.com/frogsofaustralia/id4.html

just some nice pics here
http://frogs.org.au/frogs/frog.php?frog_id=147


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## Dicco (Mar 6, 2005)

Chloris have the most anoying croak!


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## Scott (Mar 6, 2005)

My tip would be to start with GTF's and then move on to Red Eyes once you have you husbandry right. RETF require more specific heat and humidity requirements than GTF's so you would be more likely to be successful with keeping GTF's as a beginer. There are breeders of both types of frogs on

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AustralianFreshwaterTurtlesandFrogs/?yguid=109969403

Good luck,

Scott


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## Menagerie (Mar 7, 2005)

thanks everybody  I had been told that they were a little more demanding than the GTF.

Can I give you a brief run-down of my set up and get some opinions?

I have an aquarium with a mesh (removable) lid. Inside it has one of those three tiered waterfalls with little pools of water at each level. I have several twisted vines (I think? They look like dried out real rainforest vines) and a birds nest fern. The substrate is that fake grass (have heard that this is the best substrate for them) and I have a heat light and a UV light for them. Do I need a heat mat? There are plenty of places for them to hide amongst the leaves of the fern.


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## instar (Mar 7, 2005)

Is it soft mesh? not screendoor stuff which might be abasive. how much water? Sounds nice in there, like rainforest, look forward to pics !


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## Menagerie (Mar 8, 2005)

no, the mesh is like rubbery plasticy coated stuff, very nice and smoothe and non-abrasive. If I had to guess I would say that it is metal which has been coated to make it not dangerous to little critters

Thanks! I am having trouble getting a pic to do it justice... I think mainly because of the lighting in there. 

Oh and do you think that I need a heat mat under there to help the heat and humidity during winter?


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## moosenoose (Mar 8, 2005)

Menagerie said:


> Oh and do you think that I need a heat mat under there to help the heat and humidity during winter?



I am so far removed from the frog scene I can't remember alot anymore, but I'd imagine the Red Eyed TF's hibernate during winter much like the Green Tree Frogs. Best to let them do so IMHO, but it will depend on where you are keeping them. I can understand supplying heat to frogs outside of areas where they aren't found (eg Green Tree Frogs in Victoria etc), but if you live in an area where they are found I wouldn't worry about any heating during the winter months at all.

The most important thing to give any frog is an allowance of natural light and access to heating during Summer months in foriegn states with colder climates.


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## instar (Mar 8, 2005)

> Oh and do you think that I need a heat mat under there to help the heat and humidity during winter?



Unless your going to retain summer temps 22c to 28c then dont be too concerned about humidity, you dont want it too humid in cooler temps or you'll end up with sick frogs.
If you keep them room temp (cooling) then choose an unheated area of the house. The reason for that is that if you house them in say ,the loungeroom over winter, where you will have heaters etc running, you will find they are too warm for proper overwintering (not moving much for days and not eating) but not warm enough for normal activity and feeding, in which case they will waste away and starve to death. 
so, either cool in the coolest area of the house or retain summer temps and humidity and continue feeding.
This depend on the age/size of the frogs too. Tiny young frogs, like tiny reptiles are best not cooled till attain size and condition. There are several methods of heating.
(a) a large enough water area to contain a water heater set at 25c (keeps air slightly above that dep on ventilation) moving water will also create summer level humidity.
(b) a lamp above Not too hot/close, max temp 28-30 and only in one small spot (one end) red or blue at night
(c) heatmat/cord . This presents a problem in that tree frogs rarely sit on the floor, you cant put a heatmat in a branch! lol
Remember if you cool, your light source/levels should time according to winter adjusted as u go.
Same with summer , use a timer and adjust/create summer daylight hours.
Use a thermostat,with any lamp, more accurate the better. best luck


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## Menagerie (Mar 8, 2005)

They are only littlies, I am buying them from Groo, I think that they are not long morphed? I suppose that that would mean that I should retain summer temps and humidity?


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## instar (Mar 8, 2005)

Well I would, as close as possible taking into account you dont want plunging temps at night as you would'nt get that in winter. Hence a red or blue lamp, low wattage say 40 watt (think you can buy colored globes, wont disturb them with brightness) But use good thermometers or two! and ofcourse a thermostat. 
That said, these folk breed red eyes specifically, you cant go past advice from them since whatever they do obviously works.


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## Menagerie (Mar 11, 2005)

Thanks Inny!

They are arriving Monday, Groo is sending me a book as well, and am very excited about it all. Am going to pop a water heater in their waterfall/pool and maintain summer temps and humidity throughout the colder months as they are only small at this stage.


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## instar (Mar 11, 2005)

If you use a water heater, buy plastic heatergaurd. Ive seen mine having a rest on it and you dont want burns. Prevention is better than cure. Not too deep with water, bigger frogs might be ok, but smaller ones may panic and can actually drown. You can use smooth pebbles to create a slope and shallow area . They sit in it and absorb water though the skin. Take particular care with areas of deep water near the edge of the tank or enclosure, especially corners, a few small smoothish sticks provide an easy escape from the water, glass is slippery even with suction feet, ive watched mine do a slow slide down the glass, looked like a garfeild doll on a car rear windsheild lol.


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## Menagerie (Mar 11, 2005)

Thanks! That was really helpful info! The water is probably two to three inches deep in the deepest part, but I'll put some sticks or pebbles for an escape route as they are little.


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## instar (Mar 13, 2005)

Dont forget to allow for evaporation with the water level, make sure it well covers the heater !!!!!
Turn it right down to its lowest setting first though, small amount of water will heat quicker.


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