# First snake



## Snakey2477 (Jun 3, 2018)

hi everyone I am getting my first snake I have done some research and was really interested in the children’s python I have my reptile licence and have purchased a small click clack container, tongs, a hide but I have a few questions 
1. What would be the best heat mat to use with a thermostat eg watt and brand 
2. How do I set the heat mat under the click clack eg some have suggested under a tile and only to cover half the cage 
3. Would I need a heat lamp as well as the heat mat


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## Neil j (Jun 3, 2018)

I recommend a reptile one 7w heat mat if your going to use a thermostat pulse proportional will be needed. I wouldn’t use a thermostat just read the instructions to the mat stick on the spacers provided and your good to go. If it’s too hot during the day reduce the heating area to 1/4.
[doublepost=1528009623,1528008909][/doublepost]Even a 5w reptile one mat may be sufficient. I’ve never used one so not sure.


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## Bl69aze (Jun 3, 2018)

I was using a 5w reptile mat with a built in dial thermostat, and was easily reaching 40+ if i let it, but i set it to 35~ and was holding that temp almost 24/7
i just placed it underneath the container with the reader inside the tank on the floor, under the hide.

NO! you dont need a heat lamp AND a mat (except in a few situations, but def not this one)

tip: use paper substrate, whether its paper towel or newspaper, makes cleaning it a breeze


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## Neil j (Jun 3, 2018)

There you go a built in dial would be perfect.


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## Bl69aze (Jun 3, 2018)

Neil j said:


> There you go a built in dial would be perfect.


i just dont think they make the one i used anymore, it had numbers and everything... the 7W one i have current just says "on" one end of dial and "off" on other.

edit: it was a reptapets 5w - 15x14

unfortunately it seems they've gone to cutting costs and using generic heat mats now


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## Neil j (Jun 3, 2018)

I have run 7w reptile ones flat out during winter but in a cb70 not a clickclack. I turned them off during day as ambient climbed they could reach 38 degree 40 possibly. I also use substrate critters crumble breeders choice and newspaper and paper towel. But if you read the instructions to the 7w it says they have a thermal cutoff and can be used without thermostat but perhaps an overkill for a click clack depending on ambient temps so sorry.


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## Bl69aze (Jun 3, 2018)

Neil j said:


> I have run 7w reptile ones flat out during winter but in a cb70 not a clickclack. I turned them off during day as ambient climbed they could reach 38 degree 40 possibly. I also use substrate critters crumble breeders choice and newspaper and paper towel. But if you read the instructions to the 7w it says they have a thermal cutoff and can be used without thermostat but perhaps an overkill for a click clack depending on ambient temps so sorry.


the thermal cut off points seem like a gimmick.. by the time its hit that (in my mat its 50c), how long has it been climbing at 40+


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## Neil j (Jun 3, 2018)

That’s what I’m thinking even though they worked perfect and the snakes in my cb70 utilised them the whole time and grew fast. I will be using a pulse thermostat this time so i can leave them on 24/7. But I do think reptile one were in no wrong saying that with commonsense.
[doublepost=1528012781,1528012473][/doublepost]In fact most reading taken from inside the tub were 30-34 so thermal cutoff had me going. Temps never hit or exceeded 40 inside the tub. I don’t use them in summer.
[doublepost=1528013008][/doublepost]I was more paranoid bout fire to be honest in summer from a heat mat failing. But never happened


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## Snakey2477 (Jun 3, 2018)

Neil j said:


> I recommend a reptile one 7w heat mat if your going to use a thermostat pulse proportional will be needed. I wouldn’t use a thermostat just read the instructions to the mat stick on the spacers provided and your good to go. If it’s too hot during the day reduce the heating area to 1/4.


Thank you how much


Neil j said:


> I recommend a reptile one 7w heat mat if your going to use a thermostat pulse proportional will be needed. I wouldn’t use a thermostat just read the instructions to the mat stick on the spacers provided and your good to go. If it’s too hot during the day reduce the heating area to 1/4.
> [doublepost=1528009623,1528008909][/doublepost]Even a 5w reptile one mat may be sufficient. I’ve never used one so not sure.


thank you


Bl69aze said:


> I was using a 5w reptile mat with a built in dial thermostat, and was easily reaching 40+ if i let it, but i set it to 35~ and was holding that temp almost 24/7
> i just placed it underneath the container with the reader inside the tank on the floor, under the hide.
> 
> NO! you dont need a heat lamp AND a mat (except in a few situations, but def not this one)
> ...


hi what heat mat did u have thank u
[doublepost=1528013962][/doublepost]


Bl69aze said:


> I was using a 5w reptile mat with a built in dial thermostat, and was easily reaching 40+ if i let it, but i set it to 35~ and was holding that temp almost 24/7
> i just placed it underneath the container with the reader inside the tank on the floor, under the hide.
> 
> NO! you dont need a heat lamp AND a mat (except in a few situations, but def not this one)
> ...


Just wondering did u place the heat mat under a tile or just right under the click clack


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## Bl69aze (Jun 3, 2018)

Snakey2477 said:


> Thank you how much
> 
> thank you
> 
> ...


I had the heat mat on top of a sheet of styrofoam (allows some airflow) which I would recommend but have also used a tea towel, to stop it from potentially leaving burn marks on the wood.

Then I sat the tub over that.

I suppose it comes down to whether the tub has “feet” or not


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## Neil j (Jun 3, 2018)

My mats come with with stick on feet to allow for gap between container and mat. Under no circumstances would I be placing a heat mat on styro. Wood or tile yes. I retract my comments on not using a thermostat. Alway use one 130 bucks 7w reptile one heat mat 30


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## Bl69aze (Jun 3, 2018)

Neil j said:


> My mats come with with stick on feet to allow for gap between container and mat. Under no circumstances would I be placing a heat mat on styro. Wood or tile yes. I retract my comments on not using a thermostat. Alway use one 130 bucks 7w reptile one heat mat 30


I never had any problems, no burn marks or anything
[doublepost=1528015073,1528014912][/doublepost]In saying that, I’ve seen other people say they use it fine and others say it’s fine without, so it’s rwally up to you
[doublepost=1528015157][/doublepost]Also @Snakey2477, is your click clack safe to use around heat? Most likely it is, but it’s something to be aware of, as it can cause the plastic to melt and fumes to come up


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## Delphy (Jun 3, 2018)

I use a reptile one 5w mat and a dial thermostat. I also have a separate digitial thermometer and I have both probes under substrate inside the tank where I want the warmest place to be. Monitored it for a day or two before putting hatchie in and it's been running perfectly ever since. You can tape the heat mat onto the bottom of your click clack, I cover only 1/3 of the bottom with the heat mat. Use spacers for feet on the bottom of the click clack so you have airflow between the bench/table you are putting it on and the click clack itself.
I always use separate thermometer as probes and temps on thermostats always seem to be out. Years of raising orphaned furless wildlife taught me that


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## Snakey2477 (Jun 3, 2018)

Delphy said:


> I use a reptile one 5w mat and a dial thermostat. I also have a separate digitial thermometer and I have both probes under substrate inside the tank where I want the warmest place to be. Monitored it for a day or two before putting hatchie in and it's been running perfectly ever since. You can tape the heat mat onto the bottom of your click clack, I cover only 1/3 of the bottom with the heat mat. Use spacers for feet on the bottom of the click clack so you have airflow between the bench/table you are putting it on and the click clack itself.
> I always use separate thermometer as probes and temps on thermostats always seem to be out. Years of raising orphaned furless wildlife taught me that


Hi I was just wondering if it was ok to tape the heat map to the click clack if it was plastic or should I purchase a glass tank.


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## Neil j (Jun 4, 2018)

No you place the click clack on the heat mat. A quality click clack sestima or storemate from the supermarket are fine on heatmats. Never came across any that won’t. Glass don’t hold heat.


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## Bl69aze (Jun 4, 2018)

My click clack was definitely better than my glass tank, make sure you have holes drilled around the top going all the way around thru the sides


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## Neil j (Jun 4, 2018)

Very small holes for a children’s hatchling. I use a small diameter soldering iron.

@Bl69aze i was going to do an experiment with a spare 7w reptile one I got of eBay but it doesn’t have an Australian plug on it and it has a dial on it. Devastated bummer.
Anyway no more advice from me on the forum.


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## Delphy (Jun 4, 2018)

Snakey2477 said:


> Hi I was just wondering if it was ok to tape the heat map to the click clack if it was plastic or should I purchase a glass tank.


You can use the heat mat with the click clack, I use some heavy duty tape and just tape it to the bottom of the click clack and use the spacers that they give you with the heat mat and put one on each corner to raise the click clack up so you have your gap for ventilation.


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## Neil j (Jun 4, 2018)

Purpose of taping the heat mat click clack?. I’m just wondering, it is plugged into the wall after all. The click clack will need cleaning the heat mat should not be sumerced in water.


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## Bluetongue1 (Jun 4, 2018)

Bl69aze said:


> I had the heat mat on top of a sheet of styrofoam (allows some airflow) which I would recommend but have also used a tea towel, to stop it from potentially leaving burn marks on the wood. ….


Polystyrene foam has a flash point in excess of 300 degrees Celsius, and begin to break down, similar to melting, when it reaches around 240 degrees. So I don’t think you need worry about the tea towel.



Bl69aze said:


> ….is your click clack safe to use around heat? Most likely it is, but it’s something to be aware of, as it can cause the plastic to melt and fumes to come up


Most commonly used plastics have melting points well above 100 degrees. Containers are mostly made of these so they can withstand scalding with boiling water without deforming. A few food containers are made of PVC, which has a melting point around 75 degrees and can give off some noxious fumes when excessively heated. These are deformed by boiling water, but can withstand hot water from the tap (max of 60 degrees). So if your click clack is not deformed by boiling water, then it will fine.


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## Bl69aze (Jun 4, 2018)

Neil j said:


> Very small holes for a children’s hatchling. I use a small diameter soldering iron.
> 
> @Bl69aze i was going to do an experiment with a spare 7w reptile one I got of eBay but it doesn’t have an Australian plug on it and it has a dial on it. Devastated bummer.
> Anyway no more advice from me on the forum.


You can buy x to australian power adaptors


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## pythoninfinite (Jun 4, 2018)

Gee, sounds like a lot of dangerous hit & miss advice here. Anything that raises the temperature to over 35C for even short amounts of time poses a serious risk of killing a small snake - they don't have the mass to absorb high temperatures before it kills them. Heat mats, even a 5W heat mat, CAN scorch wood and cause fire if not managed properly and installed with adequate ventilation. Relying on a thermostat to manage the heat from a heat mat is risky too - if the thermostat fails it will just let the heat soar totally uncontrolled. Also, having a heat source that you need to remember to turn off at different times is just asking for you to forget one day and bingo - dead snake.

By far the best form of heating for a small snake would be a 15W heat cord. You'll have a bit of excess cord if you're only going to heat one small tub, but used properly you won't need to rely on a thermostat and it will pose little risk of overheating if you set it up properly. I currently have an 8 month old GTP in a tub with a 15W heatcord & no thermostat, which I used throughout the summer without it getting hotter than 32C, and currently it is running the tub at around 29-30C.

Only 1/4 to 1/3 at most should be heated under a tub, because conduction will ensure that more than that proportion of the floor will be heated to some extent.

When making holes in a plastic tub, make sure the snake cannot get its snout into the holes or it will end up chaffing the skin where the head broadens out if it tries to push its way through the holes. This can leave permanent scarring.

Jamie


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## Magee (Jun 4, 2018)

I went straight to heat lamp (ceramic globe). Mine outgrew the click clack pretty fast! (8y/o now)


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## Delphy (Jun 5, 2018)

Neil j said:


> Purpose of taping the heat mat click clack?. I’m just wondering, it is plugged into the wall after all. The click clack will need cleaning the heat mat should not be sumerced in water.



If you don't tape the heat mat to the bottom of the click clack, once it's raised on the spacers the heat mat would just sit on the table/bench/whatever so it's 10mm or so away from your click clack and you aren't getting the airflow you need to keep it from overheating. Obviously if you are going to "wash and submerce" the click clack you would remove the heat pad first.

That's my take on it anyway.


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## Bl69aze (Jun 5, 2018)

never taped any heat mat to anything and i was getting more than the temps i needed


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## Neil j (Jun 5, 2018)

Fair enough mate. I stand by my way of doing it alothough I wouldn’t recommend it for a first time snake keeper. A gap in heat mat and tub with a good layer of breeders choice substrate would hum along nicely.
[doublepost=1528175737,1528173329][/doublepost]Anyway not here to Argue and sorry for the bum advice if you see it that way. I’m even using a pulse thermostat turned all the way up on my rack from now on. Taped directly to the heat mat.




[doublepost=1528176597][/doublepost]Edit I will tape the probe to base of a tub cause that’s not hot enough.
[doublepost=1528177727][/doublepost]And not having a go but regardless of wattage even a heat cord shouldn’t run flat out. It’s only the length that differs. I use an on off thermostat taped directly to the cord set at 38c using two runs.

In saying that I have used heat cords flat out in the grips of winter but only using one run on stacked click clacks.
[doublepost=1528178935][/doublepost]Also snakey excellent choice in first snake I can’t help but pick my children’s up for a handle when I open their tub.
[doublepost=1528179328][/doublepost]


Bl69aze said:


> never taped any heat mat to anything and i was getting more than the temps i needed


I use heavy duty sticky tape along the sides and haven’t had a problem. Running flat out they don’t even melt the adhesive. The only wear coming from tubs sliding over which is virtually non existent. I don’t know if you’ve seen these sterilite tubs but they have a gap built in.


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