# Tips for Newbies thread!



## CarpetPythons.com.au (Sep 12, 2010)

I dont know if this has been done before, but maybe this can be turned into a sticky thread?

1. Never buy a snake on impulse! Read up about them and make sure you know whats involved before you get it or them.
2. Dont be tight when it comes to the caging and equipment needed to look after them properly.
3. People underestimate how important it is to read. Too many newbies believe everything they read on a forum. Do yourself a favour and spend a $100 on a good book, even before you buy the animal or its cage.

Hopefully others will add to this thread.


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## python_dan89 (Sep 12, 2010)

+1 mate =)


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## Simple (Sep 12, 2010)

Doing some research and buying a good quality animal from a reputable breeder (so you know its history and help is available if you need it). This would also help to ensure you have a pleasant reptile experience.


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## cagey (Sep 12, 2010)

As a newbie I worked through each of the following a 2-3 times before planning my equipment needs and snake purchase:
* Keeping Carpet Pythons by Kortlang and Greem
* Care of Australian Reptiles in Captivity by Weigel
* Keeping and Breeding Australian Pythons (ed Swan) 
* fact sheets from people with professional qualifications.

It was good to look for where there was consistency of information. Then I started asking questions on here and other forums ... finally I purchased.


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## pythrulz (Sep 12, 2010)

Good advice yes how to build a click clak is a sticky thread I used it to build mine same as a lot of people also what I think is important dont place your reptile in direct sunlight even though books are good they cant beat exspereince


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## Cold-B-Hearts (Sep 12, 2010)

i did hours of reserch on the internet everyday for weeks 
and i mean weeks everyday after school id reseach for 3-4 hours 
after about 2 months when i saved up enough money i got my first snake had her for 3 weeks now 
and already have started saving for my next


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## Snakelove (Sep 12, 2010)

Buying a hatchy only if its an established feeder with a feeding record! and don't worry too much with it being snappy! snappy = awesome feeders


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## pythonmum (Sep 12, 2010)

Don't settle for something that's okay, but doesn't really thrill you. Save the extra money or wait for the next season to get an animal you really want. Remember that snakes live 20 - 30 years and ugly ones cost just as much to feed and house.


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## AM Pythons (Sep 12, 2010)

baby snakes do bite(as all snakes can, its what they do when scared- defend themselves) There is no such thing as a snake that doesnt bite..(i get asked alot..)


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## dtm4130 (Sep 12, 2010)

*how old*

when someone advertises a python as "advanced juvenile" roughly how old are they talking about


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## Sigman21 (Sep 12, 2010)

if your buying a juvenile have the adult size cage either already built or have the money put aside to buy one so when it comes time to move the snake your not stuck with nowhere to house it


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## redbellybite (Sep 12, 2010)

AM Pythons said:


> baby snakes do bite(as all snakes can, its what they do when scared- defend themselves) There is no such thing as a snake that doesnt bite..(i get asked alot..)


THIS NEEDS TO BE A STICKY ALL ON ITS OWN .......the amount of people that query about their snakes being bitey, flighty and wonder if they should sell it on and get a placid quiet non biting snake ...if that is what you want and you want 100% NO BITE RISK ...BUY A RUBBER ONE!!!!!!!! ...if not ,accept it, before you buy a snake ..and with any luck ,as most find out ..their snakes do quieten down and become more easy to handle ..BUT some never do ..


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## Pythons Rule (Sep 12, 2010)

my tip to not getting bitten;

1. if your snake is clearly going to shed, leave it alone.
2. if your snake is in "S" shape and your see its eyes (pupils) turn real big, good indicator to leave it alone.
3. if you must hand feed cause you think tongs are for whooses and your feeding pinky to small rats then my advise is don't be dumb and get the tongs lol  been bitten and finger chewed too many times by hand feeding hatchies to yearlings without tongs...learnt after that hehe and trust me if a hatchy or yearling is hungry and gets a taste for blood its very painful to have them eat your finger right down to the knuckle.

biting with food response;

1. if your an unlucky keeper to experience a food responsive finger chewing incident the only way to remove them safely from chewing more of you finger is to run luck warm water from the tap over there face, they will need to stop chewing and release your finger to get some air. when they do come up make sure your have food item available so they don't go you again.


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## The_Dreaded_Pets (Sep 12, 2010)

on another note findout where your nearest herp vet is in some cases it could be several hrs away.
also herp vets are much more expensive then normal vets are you prepared to pay these bills if need be??


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## Snakeluvver2 (Sep 12, 2010)

Make a friendly relationship with the breeder you buy the snake off. 
They will give you answers that are easy to understand because you can tell them your full predicament, will generally be right and will want the animals safety and health to be top notch! 

So keep in touch with the breeder!


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## byron_moses (Sep 13, 2010)

couldnt agree more i had keeping and breeding pythons for a year before i bought my first python and it helped alot 

ensure you a re buying from a clean collection


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## mysnakesau (Sep 13, 2010)

I have another tip to add:-

While it is important that reptiles have their warm spots, don't under estimate how damaging too much heat can do to them. With summer just around the corner it is time to keep a good check on the temperatures in enclosures and turning off heating on really hot days to prevent your pets overheating. HEAT kills and does so very quickly. 

Don't leave your reptiles outside in enclosures in plastic or glass containers. Even if they do have a shady spot, plastic and glass will heat up like an oven. I put my animals outside in a mesh vivarium (well, a clothes basket from camping place). They have sun and shade but I still make sure the shaded area is sufficiently cool for them. I use rocks and ceramic pots to create shade for them, but if the sun is overpowering, artificial shading will do nothing to help them stay cool. 

Not saying don't have their heat on, or don't take them outside. Just be cautious and don't let them cook to death.


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## Cheyne_Jones (Sep 13, 2010)

Best tip I can give is do your research and do it properly! 

You need to be on top of a lot of things when you get your first reptile; heating, feeding, enclosure, substrate, hides etc.

There is nothing worse than seeing people buy something then come on here not knowing what to feed, how to heat, or the old chestnut of 'it bit me what do I do'?

They are easy to look after if you start out with all the right knowledge.

Also, they are not cuddle toys, they dont want to be draped around you neck all day and night, and yes they will bite you if they feel like it... If you want something to cuddle have a kid!


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## Luohanfan (Sep 13, 2010)

Cheyne_Jones said:


> If you want something to cuddle have a kid!


 Maybe buy a kitten would be better 
I'm a newb myself, and i done a lot of research (3 months worth) before i got mine..
I still got worried when they first shed, but i was expecting it..
Best advice is, research research research, and buying from a good breeder is good, the guy i got mine off doesnt mind if i call him anytime.. but hopefully i wont have to as ive done a lot of research!


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## FAY (Sep 15, 2010)

AArrrhhh.......
When getting a new python...leave it alone.........until it settles down. Cannot stress this enough..they are not toys..
NO handling.......especially hatchies.........handle them to clean only...they will naturally settle down when they realise there is nothing to hurt them...

You can always get your psycho one that will never be nice.


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## Waterrat (Sep 15, 2010)

AM Pythons said:


> baby snakes do bite(as all snakes can, its what they do when scared- defend themselves) There is no such thing as a snake that doesnt bite..(i get asked alot..)


 
How wrong can you be?
This really annoys me when someone (obviously with limited experience) makes such sweeping statement. I have up to 100 snakes at times, I feed them, clean their enclosures, transfer them from cage to cage and I handle them (not excessively though). Have a guess how many times I have been bitten in the last 6 years. 
Before that? Can't remember.


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## SamNabz (Sep 15, 2010)

o0oh here it comes


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## CodeRed (Sep 15, 2010)

Waterrat said:


> How wrong can you be?
> This really annoys me when someone (obviously with limited experience) makes such sweeping statement. I have up to 100 snakes at times, I feed them, clean their enclosures, transfer them from cage to cage and I handle them (not excessively though). Have a guess how many times I have been bitten in the last 6 years.
> Before that? Can't remember.



Sure if you handle the hatchies correctly you can easily avoid being bitten (especially with chondros that just sit there and let you clean the cage around them). But the more common species bought by first timers such as antaresia and carpets do have a tendency to bite when young. Coupled with inexperience means they should expect to get bitten. If you dont get bitten, thats even better, but dont be shocked when it happens.


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## Waterrat (Sep 15, 2010)

CodeRed said:


> Sure if you handle the hatchies correctly you can easily avoid being bitten (especially with chondros that just sit there and let you clean the cage around them). But the more common species bought by first timers such as antaresia and carpets do have a tendency to bite when young. Coupled with inexperience means they should expect to get bitten. If you dont get bitten, thats even better, but dont be shocked when it happens.


 
I totally agree with you but to say "there is no such as a snake that doesn't bite"??? What message does that send out?
I bred and handled many species, e.g. Water pythons, Mackies as well as many, many elapids and there were almost always individuals amongst them, even whole clutches, that had no tendencies to bite at all. 
I do believe that if you keep snakes, especially hatchlings, in an enclosure where the snakes can see through the glass, people walking around, etc., they don't freak out when you slide the glass and pick them out nowhere near as much as if they're kept in opaque tabs, out of sight. Just my opinion.


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## CarpetPythons.com.au (Sep 15, 2010)

Come on boys, lets keep it educational. SNAKES ARE A PRODUCT OF THEIR ENVIRONMENT!


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## Waterrat (Sep 15, 2010)

Is that why my GTPs are green? :shock:


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## redbellybite (Sep 16, 2010)

Come on waterrat ....I think it is better for the newbies to have an understanding that owning a snake has a very good chance that they will encounter at least one bite ...that way it puts more of a reality perspective on the whole idea ...YES ITS TRUE you can get snakes that may never bite you BUT you can not give 100% guarentee ever ...I have two carpets that have never ever bitten but then I have got a spotted and two water pythons that do almost 80% of the time ..and it has nothing to do with me handling them ..some just do it .. best be prepared that its a possibility at least ..before owning one ,then have that false sense of security and they die of shock and develop a phobia now ...


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## Pythons Rule (Sep 17, 2010)

I genially sick to this plan with feeding all my snakes (everyone has a different oppinion though);

I feed 1 - 2 (feed items) each week up until they are 2 years old. Increasing food size to suit size of animals gut (middle section) I prefer feeding anything same size to a bit bigger then gut width. so increase when you see no bulge.

I feed 2 (feed items) each fortnight until they are 3years (adult) according to size of their gut depends on size of food item.

I feed 2 - 3 (feed items) each month to the adults. The amount given depends on if the animal is male or female (this is for anyone breeding - males get fed less to stay small and females get fed more to ensure a healthy up to size breeder). If you don't intend on breeding then feed how much ya want 2 or 3 feed items, just remember the more you feed the bigger and fatter they will get.


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## FusionMorelia (Sep 18, 2010)

whats a good thermostat placement in a click clack and good temps for colder climates (5c and lower nights and 15c and lower days) and do what variants between night/day should be used?


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## impulse reptiles (Sep 18, 2010)

Find out where that particular species is found in wild and thurally research what the conditions are like in that area, Always deal with people that have a good reptution or that you know well, get hold of some decent herp books, listen to the older herpers, don't touch the Internet.


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## impulse reptiles (Sep 18, 2010)

Waterrat said:


> there were almost always individuals amongst them, even whole clutches, that had no tendencies to bite at all.


 
i agree, some hatching's will not bite to the point were it becomes quite ridiculous,some have absolutely no urge to bite what so ever,these individuals in my experience are almost always slower feeders, its shows that the temperament of individual snakes will vary. 

over the years i have began to have a soft spot for the snappiest of the clutch and go out of my way to use a hook and eventually get a calm snake that handles well...every time i tryed, iv succeeded in doing this, i have not met a snake that i couldnt calm down with reading the snakes body language, handling it right and not getting bitten.

(IMO) by the sound of it ,people aren't handling there animals right.


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## Waterrat (Sep 18, 2010)

I also think there is a good time and bad time to handle snakes. I know few people who reach into their cage and pull their snake out to show off every time a mate comes in. Some people handle their snakes routinely, i.e. at particular time every day. Snakes are not dogs that start jumping around at 5pm because it's time for a walkie. Then there are those who don't take into consideration "before meal", "after meal", sloughing, cold surroundings (once out of its cage), strange smells (dog, cat, something they have been handling and the smell stays on the hands), situations, etc., etc. There are clues that snakes give us - you don't learn how to interpret them from books or the internet but it all comes in time. Observe before you handle.


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## J-A-X (Sep 18, 2010)

Waterrat said:


> I totally agree with you but to say "there is no such as a snake that doesn't bite"??? What message does that send out?


 
How about "any animal can, and will, bite in certain circumstances" ! ! 
You could buy a species of dog that is known to be placid, BUT if it feels the need to bite, it will ! 

my top tips:
-Research snake husbandry and setup the potential home, run it for a couple of weeks EMPTY and check the temps in all different ambient temps, eg with the room heater/air conditioner on, its no good having a basking spot for snakey that turns into to a roasting spot and his cool spot is 30+ before your thermostat cuts in, or worse, fails. 
-go around the tub/enclosure and try and squeeze your little finger into the gaps, (between tub and lid / sliding glass doors, slots in large vents) if you can squeeze the tip of your finger in there, there is an escape route for snakey 
- leave it alone to settle in for a week, offer a feed, if it takes it, great, leave it alone for another week and feed again. Establish a good feeding routine before you worry about handling. you have 20 - 30 years to handle it, don't rush it.
- lock all cages if they are in a communal part of your house... nothing gets makes me madder than the drunkin partyer wanting to to be a hero and wrestle my snakes. I keep them locked..


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## IgotFrogs (Sep 18, 2010)

hrmmm my bit of advice i'd add to this is, don't just go from the tempture gage on your thermostat always always have a tempture probe in the enclosure as well, one of decent quilty .....


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## IgotFrogs (Sep 18, 2010)

Oh and another one is while heat rocks might look like a good idea .... never ever put a heat rock in with a Animal with out it being pluged into a thermostat .....reptiles can and do get burnt by these devices so keep that in mind always plug into a thermostat 1st if you feel the need to use one at all


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## CarpetPythons.com.au (Sep 18, 2010)

Michael, we like to call what you are talking about "Animal Sense"! It's not something that a reptile keeper learns overnight, and some never learn it! It's that instinct that comes with looking after lots of animals over many years. It's what we learned through trial and error. It's what we learned through not being able to run to a forum and ask somebody else what to do and how to do it! It's what we learned through losing an animal because we just did not know any better.


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## smeejason (Sep 18, 2010)

Buy all the gear and have it up and running well before you contemplate getting the snake home. Take the time to monitor the room temps and cage temps before you stick the snake in there and wonder why it is stressed because it is to hot or to cold. 
Another week waiting will not kill you but it might kill the snake not waiting.


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## spongebob (Sep 19, 2010)

Ensure you have an ample supply of food for the herp prior to getting it, particularly if it is mostly insectivorous/rodent feeder as the little dragon/python will turn into a cricket/mouse munching monster.

Multiply this if you plan to breed. Over the coming months you will see desparate ads for woodies etc to feed newly hatched beardies, and then desparate price dropping ads for the youngsters, and then even more desparate ads for toeless beardies.I see it every year. All the result of poor planning


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## raycarpetpython (Sep 20, 2010)

Here's a tip: never ever put anything sticky in your cage. no sticky stape, duct tape etc etc. Also not sure if anyone has mentioned this so far, but make your enclosures escape proof! The amount of people that seem to lose snakes is unreal. Seems to me that if if you think your snake might have the slightest chance of getting through a small hole or gap, they probably can/will. And I would think an enclosure with sliding glass doors would not be a good idea for a snake any less than 12 months old (or atleast 6months if it was a larger than normal snake).

just my 2 cents


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## ubermensch (Sep 20, 2010)

I'm kinda wishing my baby WOULD bite so I could put a nice picture up on facebook :/
However she's the most placid little snake ever and the most she's ever done was headbutt me once when I poked her awake.
Although she's quite violent with her food....I don't know why she doesn't constrict, she prefers to bite the poor dead rat and bash its head in against the wall till she's sure it's "dead".


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## zuesowns (Sep 29, 2010)

NatoRey said:


> whats a good thermostat placement in a click clack and good temps for colder climates (5c and lower nights and 15c and lower days) and do what variants between night/day should be used?


 
Thermostat probe should be placed where you would like your hot spot/hot end (at one end of the enclosure) and from my knowledge, you won't need to drop temps at night time if you are not breeding.


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## Addam (Oct 5, 2010)

What a good thread  I'm sure most people who sign up to the sight will learn a thing or too. Can I just add, don't feed your snakes when they are obviously in slough mode, this can cause problems when the snake is shedding


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## zuesowns (Oct 6, 2010)

Here is my tip: change your water regularly (1-3 times a week) as snakes like drinking fresh water.

Or will only drink fresh water, could someone confirm this?


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## Scaler (Oct 6, 2010)

What a terrific thread! 

I think reiterating how important research is is crucial. 
Proper reading prior to buying will ensure your expectations are maintained 
Perhaps its also worth mentioning that you'll need to plan to expand your enclosure for your growing snake - you may only need a click-clack to begin with, but your snake(s) will need a proper home for when they are adults. Proper reading prior to buying will ensure your expectations on size are maintained.


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## ezekiel86 (Oct 6, 2010)

some very good points everyone!


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## zuesowns (Oct 6, 2010)

Another good tip which I learnt after I expanded my collection. 

Quarantine: separate your new reptile from your current collection (separate rooms), for minimum of 6 months, some would even state 12 months, with basic setup, water bowl, hide, perch, heat, substrate. 

If you research you will most likely find the answer, if it is confusing or conflicting, you can create a thread on the forum and supply your references, sources for confirmation.


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## Southside Morelia (Oct 6, 2010)

pythonmum said:


> Don't settle for something that's okay, but doesn't really thrill you. Save the extra money or wait for the next season to get an animal you really want. Remember that snakes live 20 - 30 years


Gotta agree with this PM 101%....


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## Southside Morelia (Oct 6, 2010)

Pythons Rule said:


> I genially sick to this plan with feeding all my snakes (everyone has a different oppinion though);
> 
> I feed 1 - 2 (feed items) each week up until they are 2 years old. Increasing food size to suit size of animals gut (middle section) I prefer feeding anything same size to a bit bigger then gut width. so increase when you see no bulge.
> 
> ...



I agree 100% with the above as well and have to put my 2 cents on the feeding side of caring for pythons.... Make sure you can AFFORD to feed your animals. ie if you breed rats/mice make sure you can AFFORD to feed them...IF you buy frozen, make sure you can AFFORD to purchase the rats/mice to feed your animals as per the above regime..As pythonmum says they live for 30 odd years....now that's a commitment to be mulled over beforehand as you may NOT be able to sell a 10year old python when the novelty or financial aspect finally wears off....


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## Blondie84 (Oct 9, 2010)

AM Pythons said:


> baby snakes do bite(as all snakes can, its what they do when scared- defend themselves) There is no such thing as a snake that doesnt bite..(i get asked alot..)


 
Have to throw my 2 cents in there as well. My MD is 9 months old and i have had her for about 7 months and she has never even looked like biting. And let me just say I have given her plenty of reason to (not that I torment her or anything but I am a newbie). 

I think it is smart that people are prepared for the fact that as snake owners they stand a chance of getting bitten but to make such a sweeping statement like that is a little misleading also. I was fully prepared for the possibility of getting bitten, as well as the possibility of her being a little bit of a fussy eater and having issues changing over from mice to rats. Thankfully I have had none of these issues, the only real issue I have had is that my girl hates being in her enclosure and constricts quite firmly when it is time for her to 'go to bed'. 

I think my bit of advice I would add is that, when it comes to herps, the only guarantee is that there are no guarantees. Sure you might get a snappy hatchy. It might calm down with handling. It might not. You might get a calm and placid snake. This might mean that they are picky eaters. It might not. You really just have to be prepared for all possible scenarios and deal with them as they happen.


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## MrShorty8878 (Oct 12, 2010)

hah same here i just read and read not usually pisifcly on a snake yet but on whats a good one to have and cages but when i make up my mind  cant wait to know everything about the snake i want because im still looking to see what snakes good 4 me


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## Pintojax (Oct 16, 2010)

Just remember that when it comes to a larger python The Teeth arent the only thing to worry about.... Remember that they are experts at suffication by constriction and can do permanent damage to an arm or a leg and YES if they are big enough they can even KILL an adult person... Children are easier to digest tho (lol) and less work to kill....
PLEASE know that ALL snakes have teeth and they CAN all bite...


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## MrShorty8878 (Oct 16, 2010)

well with the biting situation what IMO better sooner then later oh and whats this about killing children because their easyeir to digest  im just about 14 but i am very small for my age lol but i am looking at smaller pythons at the moment im looking at spotted pyhton, stimsons python or a coastel carpet python


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## LadyJ (Oct 19, 2010)

HAVE A VET FUND! It can happen, any day, any time... whenever. Keep a LOT of money aside in case of emergency with your animals and keep putting money in! I've had something happen on a Sunday when vets are closed and the after-hours cost for an emergency run in is not fun! Keep a seperate bank account if you're worrying about spending it away... don't touch that money.


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## MrShorty8878 (Oct 19, 2010)

yea well im bad at saving and with all the money i save up to buy my snake ill still probably have some left that i will keep saving and around the time i buy my snake im hoping to have a job so yea more money to save


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## Mozzooka (Nov 8, 2010)

Good advice.


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## FusionMorelia (Nov 10, 2010)

just a quick noob question or 2 here, 
1 i have read in a couple of books and been advised by several breeders that feeding in a separate tub is a risky practice
with high risk of stress and regurgitation of handling snakes so soon after a feed ,especially with hatchie/juvies yet
i have read other things that say the complete opposite and have seen people advising this practice to new herp owners, so whats right? in or out of enclosure feeding?

also with compaction from loose substrate how often does this really occur? or is it like the pinhead "myth" and not really even that bad of an issue?


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## Snakeluvver2 (Nov 11, 2010)

Up to you Nat.
Theres many factors.
You could have a loose substrate such as coco peat, this wont be a problem unless the food is wet or moist in which case the peat can stick to it. 
This could potentially cause impaction. If that was the scenerio then I'd feed in a separate tub.

You could be housing two or more snakes together which, generally isn't recommended anyway, but in any case I wouldn't feed two pythons together.

There's many reasons for and against, what ever you comfortable and you think is wise. 
Pin head sydrome i cant say anything.
The loose substrate, Well I kept my coastal, darwin and water python in loose substrate and I haven't had a problem this year. I also feed inside the enclosure.


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## mrbaggins (Nov 14, 2010)

My newbie question (After nearly 12 months of ownership :S)

When should I move up to the next size food? My yearling Stimsons girl is on fuzzies (She refused to eat over winter, go figure). She gets a fair bit of bulge in the middle of her afterwards, which is gone within 2-3 days. She got todays one down in (I would guess) under 2 minutes. Nailed it, wrapped it and sank it.


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## Snakeluvver2 (Nov 14, 2010)

When there is no lump


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## syeph8 (Nov 14, 2010)

NatoRey said:


> just a quick noob question or 2 here,
> 1 i have read in a couple of books and been advised by several breeders that feeding in a separate tub is a risky practice
> with high risk of stress and regurgitation of handling snakes so soon after a feed ,especially with hatchie/juvies yet
> i have read other things that say the complete opposite and have seen people advising this practice to new herp owners, so whats right? in or out of enclosure feeding?
> ...



feed them where you like so long as it doesnt stress your snakes out too much, i personally dont see any problems with feeding in or out of enclosures, they all have their positives and negatives. positives are that if your snake is on a loose substrate then there is considerably less risk of impaction from swallowing its substrate and the fact that you have it out and are getting it used to handling (although depending on the temperature outside the enclosure it needs to not be out for too long beforehand or it will cool down and loose its appetite, or afterward because it has just eaten and wants to hide and digest). negatives are that it can stress the snake out, it can cause regurgitation and it it far more time consuming. it all comes down to individual circumstance and choice. i do not believe in the whole "associates tank with food" theory, as if you handle regularly also, then it will associate the tank as where it lives and sometimes when he hunts around enough, a rat suddenly appears. as opposed to feeding out of the enclosure, where surely they would associate being out of the enclosure with feeding time. (this is of course if snakes have the capacity to identify and associate these changes to environment)

i would never feed a snake on tan bark ever as i purchased a snake once that had eaten a piece of tan bark stuck to a goldfish this should have digested, but was obviously a particularly hard piece of wood (probably the nut) and it was only by sheer luck and the determination of the people who sold it to me that i didnt have to pay a large sum of money to get this piece of bark surgically removed. having said that, all my pythons eat on their loose substrates (kitty's crumble) and my colubrids eat off my hands as i often have them out and am petrified that they will get another impaction. 

impaction can be a problem with certain loose substrates and i have taken over the thread too much already so i wont go through them, but research these substrates individually before you decide to put them in your enclosure and especially before you feed on them. as stated multiple times on this thread, "research, research, research" and things will travel much smoother for you.


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## unicorns_dreams (Nov 19, 2010)

I have my 1st snake home and she is beautiful, My sons just want to hold her, she is very easy to handle, I'm glad as I was worried how I would go with my 1st. I need not have worried so far so good. The breeder I got her from isn't far from me so if I have any problems I can ring her. I uploaded a pic hope it turns out ok.


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## Fenno (Nov 21, 2010)

_"Quote: on another note findout where your nearest herp vet is in some cases it could be several hrs away.
also herp vets are much more expensive then normal vets are you prepared to pay these bills if need be??"_

Being a vet nurse myself I think this advice is excellent. I pay for a good exotics vet for my girl and am very happy doing so.


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## ponies (Nov 22, 2010)

Hi all, a newbie question re handling of a new python... We brought our new 3yo diamond python 'Shulgin' home over the weekend and all my 10yo daughter wants to do is have him out and handle him. He's been fed and (largely) left alone in his enclosure for the last couple of days, but appeared fairly defensive when a hand was put into the enclosure a day or so after he was fed. I figure this is because a) he's still digesting his food; and b) he needs to get accustomed to his new environment and wants to be left the hell alone 

Questions are: for a snake that handles well (this one did for me while in the company of the breeder I bought him from), can one just pop your arm into the enclosure and pick up the snake [I've only owned lizards in the past, so this is what I'm used to being able to do] or do you need to use one of those hook thingies?

Also, what can one do to stop a python constricting if they're (for example) wrapped around a child's neck? Is there a trick to make them let go?? 

Thanks,

P


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## Snakeluvver2 (Nov 23, 2010)

You should probably leave the snake alone for a few weeks whilst it gets used to its new enclosure. 
You'll find in a few weeks that it'll be a lot easier to handle then. If not I would check out your husbandry. 
If your still having troubles i would get a snake hook just to get him out.

Don't ever put it on a child's neck. 
I'd blow on my snakes face if its constricting (hardly ever happens) if it bites and won't let go place it under water.


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## ponies (Nov 23, 2010)

Thanks Jannico, yeah I've not deliberately put the snake around my daughter's neck, but when she was handling him on the weekend and he was busy winding himself around her arms and such, he ended up around her shoulders and neck and through her hair pretty quickly. This wasn't a drama as he didn't constrict, but worried me because if he did, I wouldn't know what to do to unwind him... I'll keep the blow-in-the-face thing in mind.

Shulgin seems to have found a nice cozy spot to hide up on top of his enclosure - if you can imagine a 4ft aquarium setup with the timber cupboards below and timber hood on top - the top of the actual tank has a glass plate in the middle and is open on either side for air flow. The lights sit under the hood and the hood sits on top of the tank. Well he's taken to hiding up on top of this top glass plate up under the hood now. Little bugger, there's no way of getting him out of there without dismantling the whole thing! No choice but to leave him be to come out when he's ready


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## kingy1098 (Nov 23, 2010)

My first python was a stimsoni, i found i was able to look after it quite well with minimal knowledge about how to take care of them and i went from that to breeding both jungle and carpet pythons just by friends advise. So my words of wisdome is that you will never know unless you ask the people that know.


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## Tassie97 (Dec 5, 2010)

*Hi*

Hi sorry I am new to this site and just want to know how to create a new thread thanks in advance 


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## shellfisch (Dec 5, 2010)

Tassie97 said:


> Hi sorry I am new to this site and just want to know how to create a new thread thanks in advance 



Click on 'Forum' second from the left in the darker green bar along the top, then read through the different headings from top to bottom, decide which category your thread falls into - maybe 'Introductions' or 'General Discussion' or whatever, then click on +Post New Thread at the upper left of the screen.


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## Tassie97 (Dec 5, 2010)

Thanks very much I made a thread check it out and reply pls so I can talk


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## licky (Dec 26, 2010)

Few points
1. dont be afraid to use things from down the park like bark or branches, just make sure that they are clean.
2.Mothernature always like to interveen so make sure your snakes dont cook or freeze when you are otherwise preoccupied.
3. natural sunlight IS best so dont hesitate to warm up in the sun with your favourite Herp.

might have more later


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## ittybitty (Dec 27, 2010)

*Another newbie question...*

Hi All,

I finally after 12 months of prep. Got a costal carpet. A 3 yr old male.. He is extremely placid. I fed him today, he got my finger instead of the mouse lol.. doesnt bother me though, he let go, then grabbed the mouse... 

Just wondering, how long do I leave him after feeding before I can comfortably handle him again? Every time he see's me walk past his tank he comes out of his rock and slides around the enclosure door. If i open the door he comes out to me, but I dont want to handle him if Im not supposed to yet.

Thanks
Ash


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## Snakeluvver2 (Dec 27, 2010)

Ash

I wait untill they defecate. 
Some people wait until the lump is gone. 

Jannico


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## Anastasia85 (Jan 8, 2011)

*Thanks for the great information and advice*

Hi,

I have had my diamond for a month now and he is a joy, Very easy to handle and a good eater.

I did quite a bit of research before getting him and feel he is in a good environment but still have questions that I am still looking things up as and when things arise.

A couple of questions I would like clarified.

1. Regarding handling, Is it better to handle them at certain times of the day? either when they are cooler or warmer? 

2.What is the average amount of time snakes will usually stay in their hiding place for? He is often in his hiding area and I get concerned it is because he is distressed for some reason.

3. I was informed that I should have a heat mat at one end of the vivarium and a light/heat source at the other end. The heat mat currently stays on all the time with his hiding rock on top. and the light/heat source turns off at night. Is this amount of heat correct as I am concerned he may be exposed to to much heat.


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## danricho (Jan 20, 2011)

I would like to put a branch into my enclosure, should I buy one from the pet shop or get one myself and clean it. I would use a eucalyptus branch if I got my own, I have read that you need to soak it in a water and bleach mix, rinse it thoroughly, put it in the oven (although all the temps and times for putting in the oven I have read have all been different) and then it should be fine? Some advice would be fantastic. If getting one from the pet shop is a better idea please let me know, they seem pretty pricey but I would rather spend the money than put my little sweetheart at risk.

Cheers,
Daniel.


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## saximus (Jan 20, 2011)

Daniel I used real tree branches for my Jungle's enclosure. I stripped all of the bark off and did the bleach and water thing but didn't use an oven. I just let it air dry. He has been in there for a couple of years now and it's fine.
Alternatively if you won't mind something a little more boring you can use dowel. They are clean and much cheaper than pet shop bought "branches"


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## danricho (Jan 20, 2011)

Thanks for such a quick reply, are eucalyptus branches ok?


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## saximus (Jan 20, 2011)

Yeah that's actually what I used. They are easy to strip the bark off too which is nice


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## danricho (Jan 20, 2011)

I have another question, would linoleum tiles be ok to put in the bottom of the tank?


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## saximus (Jan 20, 2011)

Might not be the best as they won't soak up any liquid from defecation or spilled water bowls. So your friend would be able to slither through it if you don't clean it up straight away


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## danricho (Jan 20, 2011)

Thanks mate, cheers for the advice, really appreciate it.


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## danricho (Jan 24, 2011)

Hi again, I have had my female juvenile coastal in her enclosure now for almost a week and have not handled or fed her as per the instructions I was given upon picking her up. I have lots of questions and would love some advice.

Question 1 - Should I feed her before handling her?
Question 2 - Should I feed her in her enclosure or in a different enclsoure?
Question 3 - How many food items should I offer her? (the dealer told me she eats fuzzies)
Question 4 - How long after eating should I wait before handling her?
Question 5 - How long should I handle her for?
Question 6 - Is there any special way I should pick her up?
Question 7 - How many days should I leave between feeds?
Question 8 - Should I mainly handle her in the room she is kept in?
Question 9 (Yes 9!!!) - Should I handle her during her active times or when she is hiding or curled up?

Sorry for the barrage of questions but I don't want to stuff things up or stress her out, she is a beautiful creature.

Any help would be very much appreciated.
Regards,
Daniel.


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## ramzee86 (Jan 24, 2011)

danricho said:


> Hi again, I have had my female juvenile coastal in her enclosure now for almost a week and have not handled or fed her as per the instructions I was given upon picking her up. I have lots of questions and would love some advice.
> 
> Question 1 - Should I feed her before handling her?
> Question 2 - Should I feed her in her enclosure or in a different enclsoure?
> ...




Question 1: Definately try feeding her before handling her, as it is more important and you may stress the animal out.
Question 2: Thats up to you, it will probably be more comfortable in its current enclosure.
Question 3: 1 a week
Question 4: At least 2 days
Question 5: Try keep it short its first time, but its totally up to you.
Question 6: Make sure you don't pull her off of anything, just do it gently.
Question 7: 5-7 days for a juvi
Question 8: Handle her wherever you want, but it may defecate, so not on white carpet!
Question 9: Better during active times, but whenever you prefer.

Good Luck!


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## danricho (Jan 24, 2011)

Thanks very much for the advice, it is very much appreciated, it's great to be able to ask questions and not get shot down.

Cheers.


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## Darijo (Jan 24, 2011)

I've had my 8 year old childrens python for a month and have only been tagged once , I was changing his water before feeding him, I knew that I would get bitten sometime and it happened. I'm just glad that it didn't hurt that much, little bit more than a paper cut.But atleast I know what to expect if I ever get bitten again 

P.s this is Daniel, Darijo's son


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## Titanic_Boa (Jan 25, 2011)

Is it alright to put living plants in the enclosure i want to get a bonsai tree to put in the enclosure (when i get a decent enclosure)


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## Wookie (Jan 25, 2011)

Jaxrtfm said:


> How about "any animal can, and will, bite in certain circumstances" ! !


 
Get rid of the "and will" and you're spot on. There is always the possibility but it is never certain. For example I am confident that in no circumstance would one of my snakes bite (shes a jungle too - kinda ironic :lol. And IMO I think with the correct method, and patience, all pythons can be tamed. 

Three main steps:
Research
Implementing what you've learned: feeding, holding, heating, cleaning
ENJOY! What do you have them for if you don't enjoy them!?

Lets face it, pythons are very low maintenance and hardy pets (except finicky GTPS ). If you do your research and look after your pythons they will live a long happy life .


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## danricho (Jan 25, 2011)

Hello again, I'm planning on cleaning out my glass enclosure weekly, it has one hide rock, another rock, two branches and a deer antler in it. What is the most effective and efficient way to clean it out? Also should I bag my coastal when cleaning it or put her into a tub?


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## saximus (Jan 25, 2011)

It depends on your substrate. Some people just use newspaper which means it's a 30 second thing to change. Others use kitty litter which can be a bit more difficult depending what you do with it. I have a friend who just scoops out the part of the litter with poo and replaces it. Some people may suggest replacing it all in which case I'd suggest a cheap vacuum cleaner. 
It doesn't really matter what you put him in while doing it. Just so long as he can't escape


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## danricho (Jan 25, 2011)

I have newspaper in the bottom and have replaced a couple of times already (is this all I need to do weekly?), or do I need to get all of the branches and rocks out and clean them weekly too?


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## saximus (Jan 25, 2011)

Nah they don't really need cleaning unless they have poo on them or something


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## danricho (Jan 25, 2011)

Thanks mate, a bloke told me I had to take everything out and clean it every week, that sounds a lot easier. Really appreciate your prompt replies, Cheers. Daniel.


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## BenjaminH (Jan 26, 2011)

Hey guys, 

I'm new to this whole thing so this whole thread was great for me to read! One book I got a couple of years ago when the idea first popped into my head was "Care of Australian Reptiles in Captivity" by John Weigel, I found it again yesterday and I'm having a great time flicking through it, reading about enclosures and what not. If you're in Western Sydney and would like to borrow it when I'm done get in touch


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## danricho (Jan 31, 2011)

Just handled my coastal for the first time, she didn't bite at all, was an awesome experience.


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## 10hcaro (Feb 12, 2011)

Hi, 

I'm preparing/researching for my first snake and have started shopping around for a decent heat mat. I'll probably get a very young Antaresia, in which case I'll need a plastic click clack. I went to a pet shop that stocks Reptile One heat mats and I found the one I was looking for (5 watts). But the sticker on the box said "For glass enclosures only" and the guy who owns the place said I shouldn't use it on plastic. I am planning on purchasing an on/off thermostat and I'm leaning towards a 10L storage container. Question: are heat mats safe for click clacks? It seems like everyone is using them. The guy who owns the shop is pretty experienced in handraising birds, but I don't think he has much experience in reptiles.

Any help would be great!


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## aus_jason (Feb 12, 2011)

One tip i would like to add is that experience is gold . A book can get you started , but no book can compare to hands on experience . By this i mean start out with common kept species and then once your ready move on to more hard to keep species .


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## danricho (Feb 16, 2011)

Just after a bit of advice, love my snake to bits, however I don't think she has been handled much and is extremely flighty. Has bitten once. I am not bothered by the biting, and have perservered with handling. Just need some tips on helping her to settle a bit. She seems more scared than aggressive and will often race off to her hide when touched.


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## saximus (Feb 16, 2011)

There are a heap of threads about this if you want to search. You will get a lot more info that way. Basically you're right it's just scared because it hasn't experienced it before. So just keep up with the handling on a regular basis and she should calm down pretty quickly. Just remember if you just got her you should leave her for a couple of weeks to settle into her new home. Also don't try to handle her for 2-3 days after a feed.


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## greenelephants (Feb 17, 2011)

> Louise-H
> Hi,
> 
> I'm preparing/researching for my first snake and have started shopping around for a decent heat mat. I'll probably get a very young Antaresia, in which case I'll need a plastic click clack. I went to a pet shop that stocks Reptile One heat mats and I found the one I was looking for (5 watts). But the sticker on the box said "For glass enclosures only" and the guy who owns the place said I shouldn't use it on plastic. I am planning on purchasing an on/off thermostat and I'm leaning towards a 10L storage container. Question: are heat mats safe for click clacks? It seems like everyone is using them. The guy who owns the shop is pretty experienced in handraising birds, but I don't think he has much experience in reptiles.
> ...


I would suggest reading this guide just as a strarting point i did and its working out great looking forward to actually getting the snake. 
http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/diy-zone-5392/guide-build-click-clack-dial-93266/


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## danricho (Feb 27, 2011)

My coastal is shedding right now, her eye looked a little cloudy last week (is that a sign?). I handled her yesterday and she was fine. How long should I leave her for now before I get her out again. Any advice on shedding would be appreciated.


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## J-A-X (Feb 27, 2011)

If you know they're in shed, leave them alone, their skin is fragile and they feel vulnerable and they're more likely to bite. You could cause damage to her skin and create a problem for her. Provide a nice size soaking dish and leave her alone. They will shed within a week of their eyes clearing up.


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## Sezzzzzzzzz (Mar 11, 2011)

Pythons Rule said:


> my tip to not getting bitten;
> 
> 1. if your snake is clearly going to shed, leave it alone.
> 2. if your snake is in "S" shape and your see its eyes (pupils) turn real big, good indicator to leave it alone.
> ...


 
wow! i hadnt even thought how i was going to feed my snake (when i do get one!) tongs all da way thanx!!!!


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## peter28 (Mar 12, 2011)

*Handling too much*

I have myself a coastal 'Arnie'. When it comes to handling and feeding,I don't handle the day before feeding the day of feeding and the day after.. He was born when cyclone Yasi came to town so still quite young, new to his enclosure, and settling quite well, very protective after feeding, strikes well and handles well too, a little bity but to be expected..
What my question is, if I handled him this morning for about 20 minutes and he only bit 3 times, little ones not even really bites, then decided to rub himself and what only seems like cuddling my hand, I was wondering, if he is handling well, is it too much to get him back out in the afternoon and handle him again ??
I would like him to get used to handling and feel comfortable, so pretty much what is too much and what is not enough ??
He has handled well so far, the first time he was ever handled was last tuesday, untouched wednesday fed thursday untouched friday and handled today (saturday) so it was 3 days between handling and he fed in between.. Any thoughts and recommendation's would be much appreciated. 
I think he is doing well considering he went into his new enclosure on Thursday as well, transfered through him going into it without me handling him..
Thoughts please .. Thanks..


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## Waterrat (Mar 12, 2011)

I wouldn't handle any snake, large or small for at least 5-6 days after feeding. hey need some piece to digest their food. Just MO.


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## saximus (Mar 12, 2011)

I agree they need more than a day after a feed. For me it's 4 minimum. The day before and even the day of shouldn't be a problem though (unless he is really hungry). Also if he is that snappy it's best only doing it once a day for 5-10 mins to start with. Even most snappy hatchies can be held without you getting bitten if you do it right. 
One last thing, you should leave him for a couple of weeks after moving into a new enclosure. It's really stressful for them so they need time to settle in


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## Aussie-Python-97 (Mar 12, 2011)

I Went Down To My Reptile Shop Got Infomation,
Then Got Further Infomation From The Internet, Such As "Aussie Pythons & Snakes'


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## vadercat (Mar 12, 2011)

I did alot of reserch before I purchased my central netteds as well. It pays to be well informed as it is not a cheap hobby.


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## boo.i.see.you (Apr 1, 2011)

Have snake = will get bit.
Buy a book called keeping and breeding Australian pythons.
QUARANTINE! Don't just let any one touch your snake.
and keep spare heat lamps, when they blow i guarantee every one has sold out.
Buy your snake from a reputable breeder.


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## Jonlivingthelife (Apr 2, 2011)

yes when we start owening our snakes it good to have a freind who keep snakes to show you the ropes and internet is good tool you can look up anythink about them in matter of seconds all it takes stay aways from pet shops they do give bad advise and make you spend a lot more than is needed i say


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## Nicole666 (Apr 2, 2011)

i think it depends entirely on the breed of snake when it comes to handling with the exception of digesting, every snake should be allowed a day or 2 to be left alone to disgest there food which is what they do naturally in the wild, handling after feeding can cause discomfort and regurgitation. 

Some snakes need there space and some thrive of attention, my stimmy luvs chillen in my shirt pocket haha its a mission sometime to part ways haha, but im a firm believer that snakes should be admired and left alone rather then petted and shown off like a trophy! although some require constant attention to become tame etc, which brings me back to breed of snake.

To all the newbies out there (im am too!) please do your research, its not like getting a dog or cat.


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## Retta4jungles (Apr 10, 2011)

Thanks guys, for info i have found it hard to find info on hatchies, im new to the hatchies, so this has been good, i feel bad having to ask questions every five seconds on the forum and seem to several different responses so its hard to know what to do. thanks for sticky thread tip. Will keep looking this up for more info lol


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## krashdummy7 (May 5, 2011)

vote for charlie the jungle python for the 2012 APS calander!!!!


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## Bluetongue1 (May 6, 2011)

Nicole666 said:


> i think it depends entirely on the breed of snake when it comes to handling with the exception of digesting, every snake should be allowed a day or 2 to be left alone to disgest there food which is what they do naturally in the wild, handling after feeding can cause discomfort and regurgitation.
> 
> Some snakes need there space and some thrive of attention, my stimmy luvs chillen in my shirt pocket haha its a mission sometime to part ways haha, but im a firm believer that snakes should be admired and left alone rather then petted and shown off like a trophy! although some require constant attention to become tame etc, which brings me back to breed of snake.
> 
> To all the newbies out there (im am too!) please do your research, its not like getting a dog or cat.


 Great advice!

Blue

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Top tip is definitely to do your research on the needs of your intended purchase BEFORE you buy. Unfortunately that is often easier said then done. So how does one go about it effectively?


Accessing the books mentioned is my top suggestion. You don’t have to buy Swan’s or Weigel’s or any other book. You can access them through your local state library.
Magazine articles are a great source of information. Reptiles Australia, Scales and Tails, and the overseas mags Reptiles (USA) and Practical Reptiles (UK) are all excellent sources of information if you can access them.
Forums. There are numerous forums that will have a plethora of information. You do need to read the entire threads when utilising these because there are often differing views presented.
Internet Sites: This is fraught with danger. Many sites are not what they claim to be and offer bad or conflicting advice. Someone new to the hobby does not have sufficient experience or knowledge to be able to discern between the worthwhile and the crap. So what to do? Most Australian reptile sites, other than those of some pet shops, are good quality. The best are herpetological societies that have care sheets available. For Geckoes, Danny Brown’s Homepage is unsurpassed. Melissa Kaplan has an excellent US site and her links can be trusted. The larger US reptile distributors also have worthwhile and accurate care information. Once you develop a basic knowledge of the husbandry requirements, you can start to recognise those sites that are crap and those that are worth reading.
 
Biting has been discussed at length but not a lot on how to minimise it. Snakes are the main offenders for biting, particularly pythons. As was pointed out they can be trained! Snakes bite for essentially one of two reasons – striking potential food and in defence when feeling threatened. So the first bit of training is always offer food from the one side of the viv and always around the same time of day – preferably different to the time of day you would handle it. Secondly, when removing the snake to handle it, always do so from the other side of the viv. Feeding your animal in its viv will help here but is not essential.

Go with the advice already given – leave while coming up to shed, for 2 days following a meal and when it adopts an s-shaped posture indicating it is prepared to fight rather than be disturbed. For snappy snakes, open the viv and give them the opportunity to star emerging on their own. When sufficient of the snake is outside the viv, you can use a hook to simply control the head end so it is not within striking distance. With the other hand, remove the snake fro its viv. Often, at this point, you can dispense with the hook. If not, maintain its use simply to keep the head out of reach of you as a target and allow the snake as much freedom as possible while handling it. Done once a week consistently you should get to the point where the hook is no longer needed. 

Do your homework BEFORE purchasing. Otherwise you may end up with an expensive corpse.

Choose an animal that is healthy – alert; active; responsive; regular tongue flicking in all snakes and many lizards; supporting its own weight; in good body condition; exhibiting muscle tone and muscular resistance when picked up; no lumps in the body cavity when gently palpated; a feeding record is provided; scale look healthy and have lustre on snakes and skinks.

Blue


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## danricho (May 21, 2011)

Howdy, switched from adult mice to velvet rats today, my girl was not interested at all. Put a mouse in there and she smashed it. Is this normal? And if it is normal, how do I wean her onto rats?


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## saximus (May 22, 2011)

Try defrosting the rat and mouse together. Once they are both thawed rub them together so the mouse scent gets on the rat. This usually works. It's what people mean when they talking about "scenting" a food item


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## mysnakesau (May 22, 2011)

Avoid feeding your snakes in very hot and cold weather. Food items can rot inside them quicker than the snake's digestive system can work. While it is more commonly heard of when feeding at low temperatures, feeding in hot weather will have the same effect. I lost two bullet proof bredli from food poisoning couple days after I fed them when temperatures were high 30c, possibly closer to 40. Wasn't pleasant experience at all.  Even though the night temperature had fallen quite well, I did not consider the predicted temperatures for the next days to follow.


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## danricho (May 22, 2011)

Cheers mate, will give it a crack.


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## Nikolameyers007 (May 24, 2011)

I have just moved my gecko from a huge tank set up to a click clack set up.. nice 30L tub like my breeder uses, i am just nervous about heating though. I am using a 15watt 3 m heat cord and i have it sitting UNDER not in UNDER!!! My plastic tub. it is sitting on a pair of flat packed draws.. not sure what materials they are etc and am just wondering if this is safe? chance of melting/burning etc? pelase get back to me asap


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## danricho (May 24, 2011)

My girl has just had her 3rd shed this year. There is still a bit left on her tail, what should I do?


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## mysnakesau (May 25, 2011)

Soak her in warm water for about 20 minutes. Then you can gently peel it off with your fingers.


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## Logan92 (Jun 5, 2011)

how do you keep a python warm if the power goes out?


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## Wally (Jun 5, 2011)

Something temporary like a power outage is no cause for alarm. If it were to stretch into days and your python has a full stomach you may need to consider other alternatives like taking it outside etc. But a few hours will be fine.


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## Logan92 (Jun 5, 2011)

ah to easy then, cheers mate!


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## Wally (Jun 5, 2011)

I should also say that if you were to take a reptile outside to leave it in full sun in something like a click clack will ultimately kill it quite fast. Providing it with a shaded area is a must in these circumstances.


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## Logan92 (Jun 5, 2011)

thanks  oh and water, is water straight from the tap ok to give to snakes?


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## beeman (Jun 5, 2011)

Logan92 said:


> thanks  oh and water, is water straight from the tap ok to give to snakes?



yes perfectly fine


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## Chris (Jul 5, 2011)

Guys, I picked up my yearling Jungle last Saturday (she is about 16 months old), she ate 2 weaner mice that day. How long should it be before she has a crap?


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## danricho (Jul 28, 2011)

When handling my coastal, I can control her pretty well when she is on the lower part of my arms or moving from one hand to another. However, when she moves up my arm and shoulder and her head gets out of my vision I am a bit unsure how to move her without distressing her too much or grabbing her in the wrong spot. Any handling tips would be appreciated. She is about 1m long and is pretty docile but a bit flighty.

Hi Chris D, my coastal usually takes around a week to pass her food. Sometimes a little quicker, sometimes a few days longer. She always craps after a shed.


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## saximus (Jul 28, 2011)

You could just try directing her so she doesn't go up there? If that fails just twist your arms around and try to get her head into your view. The flighty ones tend to be most scared of things touching them that they aren't expecting so really try to avoid letting her raise her head up into something like a sleeve or your arm.


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## danricho (Jul 28, 2011)

Thanks for that, I don't generally let her go up there but she can be pretty quick and persistent with where she wants to go. Thanks again.


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## Chris (Jul 29, 2011)

danricho;2010554
Hi Chris D said:


> Thanks mate, she ended up having a big crap after she shed.


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## mysnakesau (Aug 8, 2011)

This is already mentioned amongst this thread but for the animals who have lazy owners I am going to put this one out again....
Yes its still very cold at the moment but spring/summer is just around the corner. The Number One Killer of animals is heat exhaustion. Now is probably a good time to start researching for summer precautions and get yourself into the habit of checking your thermostats regularly - more than once a week - to make sure they are working. Overheated enclosures is usually caused by thermostats failing, leaving heat sources glowing at their maximum output. You will be very disheartened to come home from work in the afternoon to find your snake, lizard, or any pet, dead because their enclosure was too hot. Over summer it probably wouldn't hurt to cut down the power wattage to just enough to give the temps they need, or to re-adjust heating that isn't on thermostats to turn off during the hottest parts of the day. Check their water everyday and be sure its in their cool end.

Symptoms to watch out for, in overheating is prolonged soaking in their water, constantly at the cool end or even pinned hard against the furthest point from the heat source.

If you put your animals outside for sun, or have them living outdoors be sure they have plenty of adequate shade. A towel over them isn't good enough. They need a cool, shaded spot where they can retreat to away from the scorching sun. Or better still, chose the days, and the time of the day wisely and don't put them outside when the temperatures are already soaring. I learnt this one when my snakes kept crawling up my legs when I popped them down on the grass. My olives, carpets, didn't matter if they were the crankiest and hated me, if that ground is hot, they will want to get away from it, and crawling up your legs was cooler than the grass was.

If you find your animal in distress from the heat you need to act immediately to cool them. Remove them from the danger. Syringe some cool water down their necks, cool baths, and turning off their heat and allowing their enclosures to cool before you put them back in. Changing the bedding might be necessary if it has become too hot, and change their water. Place them in a tub in the coolest part of your house in a low traffic area to recover. When you see them recovering they can go back to their enclosures. 

*** REMEMBER ppl on this forum can offer all the advice in the world but you should never wait for replies to treat your pet. Seek veterinary attention. Nobody here can tell how bad your friend is, so if don't already know how to treat something, seek veterinary advice immediately.*


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## mysnakesau (Aug 8, 2011)

Haha thanks Mark. I am not saying nobody here knows as good as a vet, but stuff sitting at the computer waiting for replies while my pet dies.....not gonna happen. Vet first, APS later. But if you really want to avoid the cost of a vet, then you don't wait till something happens before you decide its time to find out about it. Research NOW, you might have a fair idea if and when trouble does strike.


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## FusionMorelia (Aug 16, 2011)

i would say that common sense is also key, and dont believe every single thing your read on forums 
your much better off asking a vet or a breeder(the one u got your snake off is best bet for you)
or someone with QUALIFICATIONS! sure u can ask a lot of things on here but the fact is if its serious or
something very close to your heart then seek QUALIFIED advice
but the number one thing i can advise is this

have fun with your snake and stop worrieing! snakes are very tough animals 
enjoy it, read some books learn to "read" your animals and start saving cash cause once u get one u cant stop 

Nato


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## Delicious_Psyko (Aug 31, 2011)

i'm trying to find a snake breeder/keeper in my local area of Port Macquarie NSW as i am new and trying to do some research into owning snakes. i feel like maybe a carpet or children's python might be the ideal, as i've heard that cornsnakes are ideal but illegal in Australia. been researching for a few weeks now, and am keen to do some hands on to determine my capabilities in handling snakes. 

any suggestions/extra info is welcome, including needing/obtaining permits (govt websites are useless, as is imigration?) as is any possible leads to breeders/owners in my local area. thanks.


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## mysnakesau (Aug 31, 2011)

On Friday evening, 7pm at Lions Club Hall, Hastings River Drive, PORT MACQUARIE, there is a Herpetology Meeting where you will meet lots of snake breeders. The meetings are held monthly, first Friday every month.


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## Shotta (Sep 7, 2011)

wow this thread is awesome i am a newbie and all this information have pretty much removed my fears/worries about keeping a snake..
ta all i say thankyou


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## MissBree (Sep 12, 2011)

Happy 1 year anniversary of this thread!


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## gandal88 (Sep 12, 2011)

lol


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## danricho (Sep 29, 2011)

*My snake bit herself*

Last night when feeding my coastal python she missed the rat and bit herself, she held on for a while and then let go. Is there anything I should be worried about. She seems ok, there was a small puncture of her skin and a small amount of blood (a drop or two).


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## kaidenpk (Nov 30, 2011)

*Buying a snake*

i need help, i want to get a snake but im not too sure what would be a nice snake to own, does anyone know of any good pythons to have as a pet that would grow medium to largely sized


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## Timbo1 (Dec 2, 2011)

Having had 2 different species of pythons (SW Carpet and Woma) and having trained both this way I would assume it may work with most. When I first bought both snakes I would do the wiggle thing with the mouse/rat to get their attention. After a couple of weeks they get to know the food and it's smell. From then on I place the food in the enclosure and leave it there. They will then learn to come out and look for it. There is no snapping at it or constriction. Both snakes at a very young age stopped snapping and have never bitten since. Woma's have a reputation for trying to eat anything that moves when they are hungry but I can handle mine at all times without being bitten as it now relys on its smell rather than movement to find its food. Hope this is of interest.


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## Reptilefreak95 (Dec 3, 2011)

so. my darwin is stuck on quails. im gonna try him on a rabbit (i usually go a large quail followed by a jumbo rat) and i wanna see if he takes that, but has anybody got tips for getting him to make the switch to get off quails??


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## Brit-toni (Jan 19, 2012)

FAY said:


> AArrrhhh.......
> When getting a new python...leave it alone.........until it settles down. Cannot stress this enough..they are not toys..
> NO handling.......especially hatchies.........handle them to clean only...they will naturally settle down when they realise there is nothing to hurt them...
> 
> You can always get your psycho one that will never be nice.



Just wanted to say thank you for everyones advice ! i am doing my research and decided on a diamond python for my first
i have bought all the books that you guys have reccomended THANKS it was a huge help.

p.s Fay- i agree i have a dane named slash and he is my pride and joy


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## Goth-Girl (Mar 22, 2012)

I am a Newbee:
I have loved snakes/reptiles all my life and feel now is the right time for me.I have also done hours of research on internet.
Own and read: Keeping and Breeding Australian Pythons, Mike Swan..The guide to owning an Australian Python,John Coborn..Pythons A complete pet owners manual, Babbons..Keeping childrens pythons,Greg Fyle & Darren Green..
While searching the internet for info I came across Reptile Teritory in Darwin and looking at what snakes they had for sale fell inlove with the CCP I am now waiting for to come spend his life with me..Can't wait..
..Thanks Cloe.. 
P.S. If there are any other good books please let me know..
Espesially about Coastal Carpet Pythons..


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## Venomous_RBB (Mar 24, 2012)

Just some stuff I have done:
Been wanting a reptile for years, got books, read on the internet about my particular animal, volunteered in the zoological industry for a bit, handling their reptiles, getting to know what it was like owning, caring and managing reptiles. In the last 4 months, I have begun to look at certain species, worked out what I was planning to get, ringing around for who sells Mice/Rats also who is a good reptile vet. I set the tanks up first as I knew what I was looking for(1 Spotted Python, mature and easy to handle and 2 Central Beardie Hatchlings). I then went and looked at a few snakes/lizards and finally went to the reptile expo last Sunday and after talking with a few people there, was able to determine what I was looking for. Bought the Spotted on Monday afternoon and have just bought the 2 beardie hatchlings.


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## jallen89 (Apr 4, 2012)

this thread is awesome. some awesome tips in here. within a week my black headed python will be coming home. should i feed it on the 2nd day then leave it a week before handing? she is a very easy going snake, i held her the day after she was fed and she was so placid


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## Simpa (Apr 5, 2012)

*Please help, i need to know if this snake is poison*

I found this snake on my outside window, i live in South of Texas at the border with Mexico, my little doughter got scared and i killed the snake, please help me, i want to know if it is something to be afraid of?

Thanks
Simone


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## Stompsy (Apr 5, 2012)

Simpa said:


> I found this snake on my outside window, i live in South of Texas at the border with Mexico, my little doughter got scared and i killed the snake, please help me, i want to know if it is something to be afraid of?
> 
> Thanks
> Simone



Not anymore, it's dead.


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## Simpa (Apr 5, 2012)

akarsha said:


> Not anymore, it's dead.


you are right , but do you know if this kind of snake is venomous?


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## Stompsy (Apr 5, 2012)

No idea, sorry.


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## saximus (Apr 5, 2012)

It's a Corn Snake. Well done you killed a harmless animal


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## zuesowns (Apr 10, 2012)

Simpa said:


> I found this snake on my outside window, i live in South of Texas at the border with Mexico, my little doughter got scared and i killed the snake, please help me, i want to know if it is something to be afraid of?
> 
> Thanks
> Simone



If you don't bother it, it shouldn't bother you. your potentially putting yourself in danger, attempting to kill a snake, that could potentially be venomous and the next time, you may not be so lucky.


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## creesa96 (Apr 10, 2012)

i got a question, ive got all the money i need to get my juvvie spotted python  what kind of substrate do you guys recommend? and i want something that looks good too


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## nebones (Apr 13, 2012)

Hey guys!

I've been obsessed with snakes and all things with scales since I can remember and after 21 years my parents are finally allowing one into their house. I'm heading to the Illawarra Annual Reptile show on Sunday and I'm wondering if it's a good place to buy a snake. I'm also curious if I should get my license before going there.

I also want it to be treated like royalty, so I'm wondering how much a nice set-up will cost? And since I really don't know, how much will a snake set me back?

Thanks for any advice!


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## Red-Ink (Apr 13, 2012)

nebones said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> I've been obsessed with snakes and all things with scales since I can remember and after 21 years my parents are finally allowing one into their house. I'm heading to the Illawarra Annual Reptile show on Sunday and I'm wondering if it's a good place to buy a snake Yes . I'm also curious if I should get my license before going there. No one will sell you one on the spot without a license.
> 
> ...



You need to be more specific with your questions...


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## nebones (Apr 13, 2012)

Red-Ink said:


> You need to be more specific with your questions...



I shall try! 

I think I'll have about $800, do I need more? And I suppose that means I should get the license online before going to the show? And what prices will I be looking for, for a good beginner snake, that won't grow too large?


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## Red-Ink (Apr 13, 2012)

nebones said:


> I shall try!
> 
> I think I'll have about $800, do I need more? And I suppose that means I should get the license online before going to the show? And what prices will I be looking for, for a good beginner snake, that won't grow too large?



First thing.... I think you need to figure out which snake you like the look of, what's "too large" by your standards as it varies with snake keepers.


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## nebones (Apr 13, 2012)

Red-Ink said:


> First thing.... I think you need to figure out which snake you like the look of, what's "too large" by your standards as it varies with snake keepers.



I was thinking Eastern Small Blotched Python, Children's Python, or maybe a Pygmy Python.


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## PetaGunn (May 8, 2012)

Hello everyone, another Newbie here 
Was wondering, is it better, when you get a hatchling, to put him/her into a click-clack or just put him straight into an enclosure? 

The size of said enclosure will be 600mmx350mmx500mm... is that alright? with lots of hidey spaces and such?


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## Llama (Jun 14, 2012)

raycarpetpython said:


> Here's a tip: never ever put anything sticky in your cage. no sticky stape, duct tape etc etc. Also not sure if anyone has mentioned this so far, but make your enclosures escape proof! The amount of people that seem to lose snakes is unreal. Seems to me that if if you think your snake might have the slightest chance of getting through a small hole or gap, they probably can/will. And I would think an enclosure with sliding glass doors would not be a good idea for a snake any less than 12 months old (or atleast 6months if it was a larger than normal snake).
> 
> just my 2 cents



This is such a good point. I am a newbie and i didn't realise the previous owner had tape behind the thermometer as well as it screwed down. My poor baby python got stuck so badly i had to rush her straight to the after hours vet. after that and a follow up with a herp vet she recovered well. but i well and truly learnt my lesson. check everything and remove any stickies!!!


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## dragonlover1 (Jun 14, 2012)

CarpetPythons.com.au said:


> I dont know if this has been done before, but maybe this can be turned into a sticky thread?
> 
> 1. Never buy a snake on impulse! Read up about them and make sure you know whats involved before you get it or them.
> 2. Dont be tight when it comes to the caging and equipment needed to look after them properly.
> ...



not just snakes but ALL reptiles,I am sick of reading PLEASE HELP threads from numbnuts who do no research BEFORE buying


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## nonamesleft (Jun 14, 2012)

"Believe nothing of what you hear, and half of what you see". On this forum
you'll come to realize who to listen to and who's racking up posts. Bottom line is...use common sense and filter out the bull *****...


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## moussaka (Jun 17, 2012)

nebones said:


> I was thinking Eastern Small Blotched Python, Children's Python, or maybe a Pygmy Python.



I think you mean a spotted python  and pretty sure you can't actually keep pygmy pythons - at least, I've never seen one in captivity.


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## saximus (Jun 17, 2012)

Eastern Small Blotched is another name for Spotted Python. It's actually the name on the NSW species list. Plenty of people keep perthensis now. They are still rarer than other Antaresia but definitely not illegal to keep


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## moussaka (Jun 18, 2012)

Oh wow, that's great, I really love perthensis. Though it's definitely not on the ACT list. 

And I do know that it's another name for a spotted, just wanted to make sure nebones did too


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## squidlinc (Jun 27, 2012)

*Spotted python enclosure.*

Hello 

I am definitely a newbie when it comes to snakes but I have been reading up a lot and am looking to get a 5 month spotted python from a nearby breeder. I haven't been to see the snake yet so I am not sure its what i will end up getting, but it's about the age I would like and I am defintely leaning towards a macca at the moment.

I have been reading a lot of information about different enclosures and sizes but I as wondering if anyone could give me some specifics about the size of tank I should be looking at for a 5monther? Is it considered a juvenile or a subadult and should I be looking at a lifetimer enclosure or something much smaller? 

Any information about setting up heating and lighting would also be a lot of help. I have researched a lot about what you need to get the heat gradient ect right but I'm not sure how I'm going to get it to work in practise yet...

Thankyou


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## JM1982 (Jun 27, 2012)

pythonmum said:


> Don't settle for something that's okay, but doesn't really thrill you. Save the extra money or wait for the next season to get an animal you really want. Remember that snakes live 20 - 30 years and ugly ones cost just as much to feed and house.



*VERY well said*. *SO SO* true.
I was just typing that.. you beat me to it, not really 



ubermensch said:


> I'm kinda wishing my baby WOULD bite so I could put a nice picture up on facebook :/
> However she's the most placid little snake ever and the most she's ever done was headbutt me once when I poked her awake.
> Although she's quite violent with her food....I don't know why she doesn't constrict, she prefers to bite the poor dead rat and bash its head in against the wall till she's sure it's "dead".



My Darwin used to do the same. Just warning shots, or as you said 'head buts!'


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## Aetain (Jun 30, 2012)

Hey Squidlinc,

I'd suggest looking at the how to make a click clack thread for your snake's enclosure. You're not going to need anything big for a while so you can do more research on the right vivarium and just use a click clack till your snake outgrows it. I have a 5 month old Stimson's python and he's quite content with his click clack and they're very easy to make.


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## mysnakesau (Jun 30, 2012)

So, your snake is spending lots and lots of time in its water. It isn't showing any signs of shedding and you're pretty sure it does not have mites. Why else would your snake spend lots of time in its water?

Are you sure there are no mites? Pop him in a white pillowcase overnight (advice by pythoninfinite) and see if you find any black specks on the pillowcase the next day. There are no black specks and nothing in the water when I soak him.

Does he have any retained skin on him that he is trying to get rid of? NO. Is your enclosure overheated? NO?

Check him thoroughly for ticks. Ticks can annoy them as much as mites can. I don't know that ticks are potentially dangerous to reptiles like they are to dogs and cats, but they are blood suckers and irritable. Your snake may be soaking, trying to relieve an irritation that you have not found. It pays to spend some closer attention to your snakes now and then, looking for raised scales, feeling for tiny bumps that shouldn't be there. Some ticks can be hard to see, and can be difficult to remove. As soon as you start harassing them the ticks may try to bury themselves deeper into the scales so have a pair of tweezers on hand so you can grasp those rotten suckers and get rid of them. 

I've watched an intergrade of mine spend near two months in his water. I quarantined him, suspecting mites. Soaked him, sprayed him, fogged his tub and his enclosure. Are mites really that hard to see? They can be, especially on a dark snake but mites were not the problem. Today I took Jimmy out for some sunshine and after he warmed up I pulled him out to give him a really good close up going over. I was looking for mites, but pressing down on his skin as he slithered through my hands I felt some little bumps. The scales were raised at those bumps, and sure enough, tiny red looking ticks were there. I found three on him. He was very well behaved while I poked at him for so long but I couldn't feel or see anymore. So hopefully we found the reason why he was spending all his time in his water bowl. I never suspected ticks because he has not been anywhere to pick them up. So beats me how they found him, but they did.


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## Iz-Dog (Jul 13, 2012)

Interested in buying a lizard or gecko, what is the easiest to look after?

Im from Adelaide, South Australia and this will be my first reptile. I am interested in a small reptile that will be easy for a beginner to care for. Furthermore, would preferably like a reptile (probably gecko) that doesnt require as much lighting as some reptiles.

Was considering leopard gecko but can find any (dont know if they are sold in Australia). Other gecko im considering is a barking gecko? An opinions or advice would be much apreciated.

Cheers


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## mje772003 (Sep 12, 2012)

I have my new python since last Saturday and the breeder did advise to let her settle in for a week first before handling and then feeding so I was wondering is there signs when an animal has settled down?


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## GeckoJosh (Sep 12, 2012)

mje772003 said:


> I have my new python since last Saturday and the breeder did advise to let her settle in for a week first before handling and then feeding so I was wondering is there signs when an animal has settled down?



When it is eating regularly


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## Colin (Sep 24, 2012)

Site rules Site Rules - Aussie Pythons & Snakes

Subcriptions Subscriptions - Aussie Pythons & Snakes


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## cinch (Sep 25, 2012)

HI every one.. I am completely new.... I have inherited a coastal python.. he is about 3 1/2 foot long.. yes I know he will end up about 25 ft Now.. general care.. I have basic ability.. yesterday I feed him for the first time.. now I was told not to feed for 3 weeks.. is this right.. what is the rule of thumb.. also.. Cleaning.. in enclosure.. every day or once every 3 days... also do they fart.. Yes I know these are and may a bit silly..


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## Rob (Sep 25, 2012)

cinch said:


> I have inherited a coastal python.. he is about 3 1/2 foot long.. yes I know he will end up about 25 ft


 

LOL no. A Coastal will not get anywhere near 25 ft. Try more like considerably less than half that !




cinch said:


> yesterday I feed him for the first time.. now I was told not to feed for 3 weeks.. is this right..


 
You were probably given that advice to allow time for him to settle in. Or do you mean you were told to feed 3 weeks after the first feed ? Either way, 7-10 days is probably long enough between feeds, once per month for a 3.5' snake is probably a little less than what they are usually fed *in captivity*.



cinch said:


> Cleaning.. in enclosure.. every day or once every 3 days...


 
I clean waste as soon as I see it, with a substrate change (a little bit of F10 disinfectant, etc.) every 4-6 weeks.




cinch said:


> also do they fart.. Yes I know these are and may a bit silly..



Can't really help you with that one, sorry.


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## Ramsayi (Sep 25, 2012)

cinch said:


> ... also do they fart..



Yes they do


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## jezflyer7 (Sep 29, 2012)

AM Pythons said:


> baby snakes do bite(as all snakes can, its what they do when scared- defend themselves) There is no such thing as a snake that doesnt bite..(i get asked alot..)


Obviously all snakes can bite, but I've had my MD since she was 2 months old & she's never even tried to bite anyone ever.


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## ddammitt (Oct 7, 2012)

I found this info really helpful when I started: I have noticed a few threads on here about what to feed your snakes and what size, how often etc so i thought i would post a chart that helped me when i was first starting out.

View attachment 267120

View attachment 267121


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## missie66 (Oct 19, 2012)

*Help plz*




redbellybite said:


> THIS NEEDS TO BE A STICKY ALL ON ITS OWN .......the amount of people that query about their snakes being bitey, flighty and wonder if they should sell it on and get a placid quiet non biting snake ...if that is what you want and you want 100% NO BITE RISK ...BUY A RUBBER ONE!!!!!!!! ...if not ,accept it, before you buy a snake ..and with any luck ,as most find out ..their snakes do quieten down and become more easy to handle ..BUT some never do ..


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## missie66 (Oct 19, 2012)

Can anyone tell me why my diamond rub her heat pits on my arm/hand?


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## missie66 (Oct 19, 2012)

M


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## jodee (Nov 2, 2012)

Hi Everyone,
As a newbie myself, I am forever learning new things about my snake and reptiles in general. Today i learnt about sellmonella and and the seriousness of it when it comes to reptiles and their ability to trandfer it to humans...I was astounded, it was not something i had considered before.
anyway, I came across this website that outlines the problem and some ways reptile owners can reduce the risk of making themselves sick and still enjoy their reptiles 

Salmonella in Turtles, Lizards, and Snakes, and the Risk to Humans


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## nintendont (Nov 30, 2012)

im a newbie and Im sure I will have a ton of questions that people on here can hopefully answer.
I just bought an enclosure that is 1500x460x650 that I want to get a pair of Jungle carpets for...eventually, when my set-up is complete...
what age are pythons able to reproduce?
and for the branches that are secured in my enclosure, what product do you use to clean the surfaces? General household cleaning products would be a no-no Im assuming?
and also, Heating and Lighting...I have been doing heaps of research and its doing my head in!!! My enclosure has 2 fittings and I gather that the middle one is used for a light (what sort of light?) that should come on at night and the fitting on the left side should be the heat source controlled by a thermostat...but what exactly is the heat source? I have seen ceramic things that dont put out actual light and then there are heat lamps, and its confusing me a bit...and what sort of wattage is needed?
I know I will have loads more questions, but they are a good starting point...any tips/advice would be appreciated!


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## harlemrain (Nov 30, 2012)

nintendont said:


> im a newbie and Im sure I will have a ton of questions that people on here can hopefully answer.
> I just bought an enclosure that is 1500x460x650 that I want to get a pair of Jungle carpets for...eventually, when my set-up is complete...
> what age are pythons able to reproduce?
> and for the branches that are secured in my enclosure, what product do you use to clean the surfaces? General household cleaning products would be a no-no Im assuming?
> ...




I personally use the ceremic lamps myself, I find they last longer than bulbs, and once a bulb blew and shattered glass all through my enclosure, although that's not to say its something that commonly happens. I have a 3ft tank and I use one 100W lamp in summer, controlled by thermostat and in winter I have a 50W bulb on of a night to stop temps dropping below 20. I'm not 100% sure on this but I have heard on here and other places that having a constant light source can be confusing for them, as they need a sense of daytime and nighttime aswell.

As for the breeding, I'm not sure of the exact age for Jungles, but the general rule of thumb is 2yrs, but I would check that out if I were you.

Also one final tip before you get your Jungles, they are beautiful creatures but do have a tendency to be a bit snappy, this is something they can grow out of with handling but there's no guarantees so if these are your first snakes then that is something worth considering also.

Hope this helps some 

oh and p.s unless your snake defecates on the branches attached to your enclosure there's no real need to clean them


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## nintendont (Nov 30, 2012)

yeh I have read that jungles are snappy but that doesnt bother me. I want a good looking snake and I like jungles. besides I voluntarily pay lots of money to get repeatedly stabbed with needles so a bit of blood here and there isnt going to be much of an issue.

now Im confused further about lighting because, correct me if Im wrong, but temperatures are still maintained at night via the thermostat, so wouldnt a heat lamp still be coming on occasionally at night...meaning there was no defined period of darkness, thus, confusing them :S

if a snake was to defecate ON the branches, what would you use to clean the surfaces that would not be harmful to the snake?

thanks for trying to help


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## harlemrain (Nov 30, 2012)

Well as I mentioned I'm not 100% sure about the lighting situation but as I use cermaic heating it's never been an issue for me, when it's daytime it light and night is dark for him. I'm pretty sure infared lighting can't be seen by the snakes so that's another option if you want their tank lit up so you can see them.

I totally agree Jungles are gorgeous and when we can afford another enclosure that's next on my list 

When cleaning my enclosure I use a bowl of warm water with a small amount of dishwashing liquid and a cloth- I figure if we can wash things we eat off with it it can't hurt them, and I make sure I wipe over the surfaces with a clean damp cloth afterwards - hope this helps


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## nintendont (Dec 8, 2012)

do carpet pythons poo after EVERY meal? Or does it depend on the size of the meal? how many days after a feed, roughly? also: shedding...how often does this happen?
and what is an RPM...Ive heard them mentioned along with Jags and I have discovered the Jag explanation thread but cant find anything on RPMs...


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## Broddles (Dec 9, 2012)

*Newbie - Woma help*

Hey everyone! 

So I am a snake newbie. Have been keeping lizards for some time now and have finally decided that I might dabble in snakes.

I have fallen in love with Woma's and am having trouble finding decent information online. I have located a good vet (just moved to a new area) and am in the process of upgrading my enclosure (old one is a 4x1 that I used for central netteds)

I have never kept a snake before and would love some info on the difference in husbandry needs. A good book recommendation would be awesome too.

Throw all your Woma knowledge at me 

Thanks


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## jpicot1 (Jan 3, 2013)

Hi all,

Just wondering what you think the most hygenic way to defrost and keep frozen rodents is.

Cheers!


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## GeckoJosh (Jan 3, 2013)

jpicot1 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Just wondering what you think the most hygenic way to defrost and keep frozen rodents is.
> 
> Cheers!



Defrost them as you need them in either warm water or on a warm surface, try not to leave them for too long once defrosted, once defrosted do not refreeze.
For keeping them in the freezer just keep them in pressed sealed bags, double bagged imo is better for rats and large mice as the claws tend to tear small holes in the bags.


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## mje772003 (Jan 3, 2013)

GeckoJosh said:


> Defrost them as you need them in either warm water or on a warm surface, try not to leave them for too long once defrosted, once defrosted do not refreeze.
> For keeping them in the freezer just keep them in pressed sealed bags, double bagged imo is better for rats and large mice as the claws tend to tear small holes in the bags.


I normally use double snap lock bags


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## GeckoJosh (Jan 3, 2013)

They are easy to keep, however they are not forgiving if one gets something wrong.


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## jpicot1 (Jan 7, 2013)

Hi all, 

Another question. I live in QLD and we get some very warm days. I just checked my Woma hatchies enclosure at around 4pm and it was 33-34 degs all over. No heat! Is this ok? Should i bother with any heat at night when it cools down a bit? Cheers.


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## Morbid (Jan 18, 2013)

Not sure if these have been said before but these are the tips I give my friends when buying their first snakes, sorta no brainers but for some reason these are the things they do not know:

1) Do not waste your money on a nice display cage until your snake is full grown, or if you want to buy one early but one that will fit it's adult size. 

2) Keep your snake in a click clack or a rack system that is secure when it's younger. Don't put your snake in a enclosure too large for it. It will stress it out.

3) NEVER USE A HEAT ROCK. 

4) Make sure you get a thermostat. It's nice to have the temp gauges in the enclosure but the cheap stick on ones you can get are not that accurate and don't help fluctuate the heat supply. 

5) Do not house multiple snakes together, unless its for breeding. Snakes do not enjoy eachothers company and that situation can turn bad quickly even with similar sized same species snakes. 

6) And of course do plenty of research before guying the snake, including on care, size, easy, temperament. 

7) I saw this one posted but I can NOT emphasize this one enough. Do not settle. Find the snake you want, and do not worry about price (unless it's a $7,00 + morph) and save up for it. You end up spending more on nice display cages, food, heat supply (in energy costs too), ect... than you will on your snake. Your snake will live for a very long time. You might as well have what you really want than waste money on the first snake you could afford. Here in the states, not sure about Australia... you can get a baby Colombian Boa for $25. In my opinion they are boring, ugly and I would never want one but they do get pretty darn big for a "beginner" snake. That $25 snake will need a 6' enclosure, and it will need to be fed small rabbits often... can you afford that? If your going to buy a $500+ enclosure for your snake eventually you might as well be willing to spend that much on your snake. I mean if I Colombian Boa is your ideal pet go for it, if not find your ideal pet and spend the cash to get a high quality one from a good reputable breeder. 

8) Don't buy the first one you see from some random pet store. Find the type of snake you want, find a good breeder do research and pay the extra money for a higher quality one. It will really pay off when the snake is an adult.


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## riotgirlckb (Feb 20, 2013)

I do all the research I can before aquiring a new pet no matter what species or breed, I don't want to go getting myself into anything I can't handle and making the animal suffer because of it, learn everything you can before getting a new pet


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## daneo (Feb 20, 2013)

hey people. im new at all this. need a bit of help. i recently my first python a week ago. its a jungle. ive tried feeding it 3 times. each time it takes the mouse, wraps it up, then holds and smells it for a bout half an hour. then it leaves it on the floor of the enclosure?? its still there in the morning too. is this due to it being in a new enclosure ?? the temps are at 28 during the day and 24 at night. any suggestions would be great. cheers


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## Zeusy (Feb 21, 2013)

daneo said:


> hey people. im new at all this. need a bit of help. i recently my first python a week ago. its a jungle. ive tried feeding it 3 times. each time it takes the mouse, wraps it up, then holds and smells it for a bout half an hour. then it leaves it on the floor of the enclosure?? its still there in the morning too. is this due to it being in a new enclosure ?? the temps are at 28 during the day and 24 at night. any suggestions would be great. cheers



I'm by no means an expert or even very knowledgable yet but i've been researching this forum for some time now on everything snakes, particularly Jungles and their temps and i think a basking spot of around 32 degrees is what you need. Do you have a heatmat/cord or heat light or something running off a thermostat? I believe, and correct me if i am wrong anyone but 32 seems to be the temp jungles want to aid digestion.
If its too cold, the snake may not eat as it realises it wont be able to find a warm enough spot to digest.


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## Zeusy (Feb 21, 2013)

but it could just need some time to settle, undisturbed, into it's new surroundings before it feels comfortable. Once they eat, they become a bit vulnerable so everything needs to be nice and comfortable before they eat...........i think


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## cathy1986 (Feb 22, 2013)

Your heat is way to low !!!


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## Marzzy (Feb 22, 2013)

Every problem lately seems to be temperature related.... = /


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## cathy1986 (Feb 22, 2013)

Heat does play a huge part in a snakes life lol


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## repalex (Feb 27, 2013)

Hey is there any book that you highly recomend?
Thnx


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## andynic07 (Feb 27, 2013)

Keeping and Breeding Australian Pythons by Mike Swan is great. Also there are some great articles on the SXR site.


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## CantBeatALBINOS (Mar 26, 2013)

hey guys im getting an albino darwin carpet python soon and i just wanna check up and make sure of somethings cause ive used a few different websites and i wrote it all down - im getting keeping and breeding australian pythons soon from a petstore i know but yeah i wont have the book for a few days still): haha please note when i write or ive changed the sentence meaning more then one website was used and i wanna know what sounds more like what an albino would like
tempreture - 28-30.5oC or 32-35oC in the hot end and 24-27oC
night time tempreture - no lower then 22oC or no lower then 21oC
Diet - 1 pinky mouse a week for a hatchy, 1 weaner mouse/normal mouse/ large pinkie a week for yearling, 1 adult rat(if the snakes large maybe a rabbit) per week
Humidity - 45-50% is good, anything else and you will have to clean all the time so its best to keep them a little bit more dry then wet, when humidity dips below the 45% mark lightly list the cage/tank and the hunidity will spike to 70% or so before dropping to a more reasonable level, 70-80% humidity is too high for more then 6-12 hours at a time, dont have constant humidity - create a humidity cylce!!

is that info correct or should i just wait to get 'keeping and breeding australian pythons' to find out?


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## cathy1986 (Mar 27, 2013)

I would skip the whole mouse part and go straight to pinky rats and work ya way up from there and make sure u buy a well established snake as they can be quite hard to get eating if you dont know what your doing


from Cathy


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## jsjr514 (Mar 29, 2013)

*I believe I have a dwarf beardie*

I believe we have a dwarf bearded dragon. There is a local pet shop that just opened up and I noticed that they have beardie and they were huge. I asked the age and I was told about 14 weeks old. I stated that we have had one for about a year and she is only about 8-10 inches long. I then asked if there was such a thing as a dwarf dragon and they said no. I came home and checked the internet and to my surprise there are dwarfs.
She eats her veg, and crickets. I was wondering if there was any info that can be provided for our dwarf.


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## cathy1986 (Mar 30, 2013)

keenas4myALBINO said:


> hey guys im getting an albino darwin carpet python soon and i just wanna check up and make sure of somethings cause ive used a few different websites and i wrote it all down - im getting keeping and breeding australian pythons soon from a petstore i know but yeah i wont have the book for a few days still): haha please note when i write or ive changed the sentence meaning more then one website was used and i wanna know what sounds more like what an albino would like
> tempreture - 28-30.5oC or 32-35oC in the hot end and 24-27oC
> night time tempreture - no lower then 22oC or no lower then 21oC
> Diet - 1 pinky mouse a week for a hatchy, 1 weaner mouse/normal mouse/ large pinkie a week for yearling, 1 adult rat(if the snakes large maybe a rabbit) per week
> ...




This is the thermostat i use on all my enclosures
from Cathy 

Its from the herp shop


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## CantBeatALBINOS (Mar 30, 2013)

cathy1986 said:


> This is the thermostat i use on all my enclosures
> from Cathy
> 
> Its from the herp shop



i know it says it will but will it measure the temp inside a tank?


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## cathy1986 (Mar 31, 2013)

keenas4myALBINO said:


> i know it says it will but will it measure the temp inside a tank?



Yes on the hot end and once it reaches the correct temperature it will turn off 

from Cathy


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## cathy1986 (Mar 31, 2013)

from Cathy


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## karmag (Apr 1, 2013)

all great advise .


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## Gruni (Apr 17, 2013)

With all the newb questions about handling hatchies, I thought this was quite good to add...

[video=youtube;iB9S51g60Ig]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iB9S51g60Ig[/video]


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## jacorin (Apr 17, 2013)

i watched that on FB gruni,was well worth the watch i thought


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## Starter (Apr 19, 2013)

Yep, I agree. It is great to have a human mentor! But I advise that you also use the enormous ressources of the Internet. There are so many websites and articles to read ... I am afraid that nostalgic thing called "book" will be soon found in museums only. Seriously, if you google a bit you will be amazed about the encyclopedias of knowledge that you will find!


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## SamGrace (Apr 23, 2013)

*New snake, first snake distressed! Help!*

Hello, im sam. I've had a Darwin carpet python for around a year now, and have just brought home a approx 2 year old bredli, and ever since, my Darwin has been acting really strange. He was the most placid pet! Now he's really jittery and hard to calm down. I don't know what to do! I only get the 2 snakes out separately. I haven't tried feeding either yet, but both are due around now.


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## pythonpals (Sep 22, 2013)

SOS !!!!! I am a chatroom newbie and have been landed with an interesting situation. I was approached at my home yesterday with a gorgeous DP about 4 foot, beautiful condition, obviously well handled... was told I had been mentioned in conversation a few weeks ago (he couldn't remember who, but knew exactly where to find me ) DP could no longer be kept as family were leaving the state. Further convo and questions left me believing I would receive paperwork for DP later that afternoon (sob story about it being packed up but would be located shortly for my records... I believed him), address for house in nearby town where he lived and mobile number in case he forgot to get back to me( you know what moving is like).... phone number does not exist and trip to house found no one by that name living there..... 
now I have beautiful creature... but no paperwork. NEVER been in this situation before.... HELP!!!


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## bdav70 (Sep 27, 2013)

pythonpals said:


> no paperwork. NEVER been in this situation before.... HELP!!!


Really? So you don't know this person at all?? I think i would get onto department of sustainability and environments with a quick phonecall (you can normally get through easily)... Have you even kept snakes before? Is your setup adequate?


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## loz006 (Oct 8, 2013)

I think this thread is awesome!! I really think people should have a test or something done before buying their first reptile, especially a snake. I know this probably sounds stupid or might be more difficult for other people or may not even be possible... but too many people get snakes not doing any research... I know someone personally that has done this and as much as I tried talking them out of it they went and did it anyway.. not to mention they got an unlicensed one and a cross breed. They now don't want this snake because they didn't hold it for a few months so it has gotten a bit aggressive. They've then turned around and said they want to get a hatchy so they can start fresh so the snake won't bite them. I face palmed!! I couldn't believe this person thought that getting a baby snake was going to guarantee them that they weren't going to get bitten... besides that.. DON'T GET A SNAKE IF YOUR NOT PREPARED TO GET TAGGED. They also listened to someone that is one of those people that get a snake just for the idea of having a snake (the worst posible person you could listen to) 

Anyway a bit of a vent as well as putting my two cents in.


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## Tartmaster (Dec 5, 2013)

Hey guys. 

Another noob here. 

I'm looking at getting my first snake soon (A Jungle Python), and have been doing research for a few months now. 
The main thing I'm still not sure about is what age/size to get. 

I'm a complete beginner to it all, and have had different people tell me conflicting things about what age is suitable. 
I spoke to a breeder and he recommended getting one about 6 months old, ~30cm. 
But I've had other people tell me to get a hatchy or to get an adult. 
Atm I'm leaning toward the breeders advice but I'm not sure. 

Also if I were to get one at that age, would it be best to have it in a click clack or straight into an adult enclosure.
Again I've had different people say different things. 

Any by advice would be appreciated, 
Cheers


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## Gruni (Dec 5, 2013)

Not convinced this was the place to ask that question Tartmaster but I'll have a stab anyway... I started with a yearling (Spotted) because I was worried about the whole feeding thing but lots of people start with hatchies. The younger it is the more you bond with it in some ways but most of all as they grow your confidence and capacity grow with them. Where as if you get a slightly older snake and it picks up on your nerves it can be an intimidating learning curve that has resulted in people off loading a 'snappy/aggressive' animal that is placid in more experienced hands. 

A little jungle with attitude can't hurt you when it bites regardless of how freaky it is when you see how fast they can move that's not so much the case as they get some decent size to them. Try to deal with a breeder near you so you can handle the snake and view it before you buy as you may find you click with some and not others. 

I guess all of that fits in the 'Advice for Noobs' catagory.


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## davidhen (Dec 25, 2013)

*Terminology*

Anyone know a good book or website to clear up some of the breeding terminology? T+, 100% HET etc. and perhaps a description/explanation of some of the morphs?


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## jacques92 (Dec 25, 2013)

Try designer serpents website they are a sponsor on this site
will gife you some idee


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## andynic07 (Dec 25, 2013)

Try this, I got it from a Facebook site but believe it came from designer serpents web page originally.


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## Classabear (Feb 18, 2014)

Hey guys thanks for this thread! Picking up my new Carpet Python in 8 weeks, and this helped me


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## Smiely (Jun 6, 2017)

Can anyone help me with winter temps for a young diamond. 

Sent from my SM-G130H using Tapatalk


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## krissy78 (Jan 31, 2018)

QUESTIONS- no question is a stupid question. If you are new to keeping Reptiles then one of the best ways to learn is to ask those with the experience. We all start somewhere and I’ve seen a lot of people just wing it because they didn’t want to sound dumb asking questions. I started on this page 10+ years ago and some of the advice and tips given to me back then was invaluable.


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## Appsy (Jan 3, 2019)

Hello guys and gals.
I have a young diamond got him around 2 months ago and was told he was 6 months old and the breeder told me to keep him on small pinky rats for a couple of months he is around 50cm give or take a little. Should I up the food size for him? He eats the small pinkies not a problem.


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## Bl69aze (Jan 3, 2019)

Hatchling carpet pythons can take pinkie rats, yours could be on weaner mice or bigger


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## Appsy (Jan 3, 2019)

I was thinking something like that due to the fact from the time he strikes at the food to the time he has fully swallowed it is only a few minutes.


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## Bl69aze (Jan 3, 2019)

Appsy said:


> I was thinking something like that due to the fact from the time he strikes at the food to the time he has fully swallowed it is only a few minutes.


A feed should last 5-10minutes or 15minutes if your giving a fairly large feed


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## Appsy (Jan 3, 2019)

No worries, I will up his feed right away. Thanks for your help.


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## adamshere_69 (Feb 1, 2019)

Hey everyone, 

Quick questions i have recently got a Darwin carpet about 5 - 6 foot long. 

On the bottom of his tank i have artifcial turf and it is really starting to smell.. I clean the tank out a 3-4 time a week and change the turf and wash the old one.. Am i better buying some Aspen snake bedding? 

Also i have been feeding him one large rat a week as told by the old owner.. is this too frequent for him to be eating?

Thanks in advance


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## Steve64 (Feb 2, 2019)

Yep my son uses the artificial turf as well and his enclosure stinks too. IMO Kritter Crumble or something similar is the way go, especially if you want the natural look. When they 'mess up' I just grab a freezer bag and take a big handful, getting as much of the 'wet' substrate as you can, quick spray of F10, and couple of handfuls of fresh substrate over the top. I never get any smell, and I just do a total change every 6 months. As for the feeding i'm no expert but bigger feeds less often seems to be generally the way to go. I feed my 5yo Bredli a large rat about every three weeks and people still tell me i'm overfeeding him.


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## Ryan4j (Feb 20, 2019)

Are there key signs that your hatchie has settled in? Some people I have spoken to have talked about them not feeding while settleing in to their new home. Her last feed she had was 7 days ago according to the breeder. And I don’t want to force trying to feed her everyday and stress her out. Any tips about settling in or initial feeding would be great! Thanks in advance


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## KnightMiner (Feb 24, 2019)

Not really a newbie, my Spotted has been with me for 9 years now, but since I'm about to add a new animal (a Centralian) to my collection, as soon as my new license card arrives *grumbles and mutters and swears at Australia Post*, have a few things I'm not sure of and figure it can't hurt to ask of people with more experience. 

In terms of lighting; Fluro tube, fluro bulb or LEDs? 
Climbing; dowelling or branches? If the latter what's a good source?


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## Barry (May 11, 2019)

When keeping snakes in tubs use a soldering iron to create your air holes, drilled holes work but leave sharp edges. Your snake will look for escape routes and it’s not uncommon for them to try corkscrewing themselves through small holes
[doublepost=1557531347,1557102174][/doublepost]Ryan I’d say feed ur snake now, it’ll probably settle faster if in knows the new place has food.i feed mine the same day or next day, some take it some don’t. If they don’t, give it a few days then try again
[doublepost=1557531772][/doublepost]


KnightMiner said:


> Not really a newbie, my Spotted has been with me for 9 years now, but since I'm about to add a new animal (a Centralian) to my collection, as soon as my new license card arrives *grumbles and mutters and swears at Australia Post*, have a few things I'm not sure of and figure it can't hurt to ask of people with more experience.
> 
> In terms of lighting; Fluro tube, fluro bulb or LEDs?
> Climbing; dowelling or branches? If the latter what's a good source?


KnightMiner branches are readily available, but make sure it’s solid( no wood rot etc) I boil mine( to kill anything living in it) for a couple of hrs let it dry spray it down with F10, leave it for 5 or 10 minutes give it a rinse, let it dry again & ur good to go. Probably wouldn’t use anything sappy or strong smelling


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## Derekw (Jun 4, 2019)

Great thread with alot of good advice and experience. As a newbie i will be soaking all of this up before i get "Omen" a jungle being gifted to me and my partner


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## Tiana Russell (Apr 10, 2020)

thanks for the advice


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## HerpDerp (Sep 28, 2021)

Hi, 
definitely a newbie here. I'm looking at buying a Carpet jungle python. But obviously I want to do some research before I jump into anything. The thing is I hate researching online. Searching for information, verifying it, etc, etc. 

Are there any good books that I can read that covers all the basics of raising and caring for pythons, enclosures, feeding, etc. I want to make sure I have a good basic understanding and be prepared but I don't want to troll through hundreds of forum posts or work may way through hundreds of websites which might not even be accurate. 

I'd really appreciate the help.


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## Pythonguy1 (Sep 29, 2021)

MatthewKeating said:


> Hi,
> definitely a newbie here. I'm looking at buying a Carpet jungle python. But obviously I want to do some research before I jump into anything. The thing is I hate researching online. Searching for information, verifying it, etc, etc.
> 
> Are there any good books that I can read that covers all the basics of raising and caring for pythons, enclosures, feeding, etc. I want to make sure I have a good basic understanding and be prepared but I don't want to troll through hundreds of forum posts or work may way through hundreds of websites which might not even be accurate.
> ...


'Keeping and breeding Australian pythons edited by Mike Swan' is a great book as it covers the basic care of pretty much all Australian pythons. It's full of great info and I highly recommend it


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## HerpDerp (Sep 29, 2021)

Pythonguy1 said:


> 'Keeping and breeding Australian pythons edited by Mike Swan' is a great book as it covers the basic care of pretty much all Australian pythons. It's full of great info and I highly recommend it


Thank you so much I'll have a look  looks great


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