# Children's Python



## Cosmic wolfman (Apr 21, 2018)

Just here for some general questions snd check of information

Okay, so as a "youngling" the python is kept in a small hatching set with is consited of a heat cord/ heat mat kept at 30°C . Paper towel as substract and a small hide and water bowl, im putting a small stick in for the python to climb as ive heard that children's pythons are mainly rock dwelling and ive heard they are climbers. Fed a pinkie mouse every 5-8days using a feeding schedule if possible, feeding would be done in a seperate box to try and stop cage defensiveness. Upgrading mouse size as python begins to grow

I will be trying to handly as my python much as i can to "Tame" it. I will have a hook on stand by to help with handling.
I do know my hands need to be completely washed and clean when handling

I know not to handle my python 24 hours after feeding to help with digestion and stop stress and chance of regurgitation.

Shedding is done every 5-6 weeks depending on growth rate and know not to handle it around this time. And sitting in a water bowl is normal behavior at this time. Was just wondering other than predicting a shed how else can one tell yiur python is going into shed

Tank cleans are done on a weekly or fortnightly thing.
Water bowls are done daily.
And substrat is cleaned at and replaced every 2 weeks

I will be moving my python in one of the 'Cage it' custom enclosurers after around 8 months.

As for the bigger enclosure its going at 4ft length to allow good growth and environment display heat being set at 30°C at the hot end with a heat gradient to 24-25°C
Will be using a heat light for this

should i add a heat cord?

What shape and placement should the water bowl be at?

Is there a need for a humidifier?

And wat type of environment set up should i got for? I do know there originally come from the green rocky environment


----------



## Pauls_Pythons (Apr 21, 2018)

Why move it to another tub to feed it?

No need for any humidity control at all. (Size/placement of the water dish will give the required humidity)
Water dish should be at the cold end unless you need to move it towards the heat to increase humidity.
Heat light at the hot end is ample so long as it is sized appropriately to give the required temp.
30 is a bit cool. I tend to see better results with 33-35 under the heat for childrens.


----------



## Flaviemys purvisi (Apr 21, 2018)

I keep my Ants at 35-36 warm end and 22-23 cool end. I don't use lights at all for heating... these guys are nocturnal... Heat cords are better and far cheaper to run, lights for heating are better for diurnal species (lizards, turtles and diurnal snakes.)

I don't recommend moving the python to a separate tub for feeding... that's just creating problems. Feed it in its live-in enclosure. If you shouldn't handle after feeding... how were you going to get it from the feeding tub back to its enclosure once fed?? Moving the snake to "stop cage defensiveness" is a myth. If you start doing this, it's going to associate you coming to get it out as "feed time" and will most likely result in you getting bitten out of a food response... snakes don't always look before they strike. They see movement, get excited and well, accidents happen.

Clean the enclosure as necessary, could be twice a week or once a month. When the snake defecates isn't a pre-programmed thing. Water bowls don't need to be cleaned daily, mine are done weekly or whenever they've been defecated in, whichever comes first.

I feed when the pythons are actively hunting for food. Could be once a week, fortnight or twice in 2 straight days, again there's no preset schedule.

Pre-shed behaviour is very obvious. The snake will hide itself away for up to 2 straight weeks and be very inactive, possibly only moving to hydrate itself or change hides. The python's body colour will also become noticeably drab and for a short time its eyes will go a hazy, milky or blue colour before clearing up again. They will become increasingly agitated and defensive if disturbed during this time. Soaking in the water bowl is again not a guaranteed thing, some snakes do it, some don't. My Spotted python sometimes goes for a dip, have never seen my stimmy take a dip. Both shed perfectly every 4-5 weeks.

Handling is one of those topics where everyone has their own experiences and opinions. MY opinion of handling snakes in general is "less is more." I don't aim to try and handle mine at all unless absolutely necessary. I've probably physically held mine and free handled them a total of 3-4 times for 5 mins each since last August. Pythons like all reptiles don't seek human companionship and desire to be handled, they all just have varying levels of tolerance for it. Some folks end up with snakes that tolerate it well, some never do tolerate it and that's just how it goes. They're like people in the way that they all have their own individual personalities. I've never been bitten by mine, however, I have them for observational enjoyment, not so I can drape them around my neck every day and parade around the house wearing them. I have other pets such as a budgie and a pale-headed rosella who both like and actively seek human companionship and will willingly sit on my shoulder all day and talk to me and get up to hilarious antics with one another.

To get the best out of your Children's python, accept and enjoy it for what it is. Don't try to "tame it" and make it a reptilian puppy dog. It's never going to nuzzle up to you and lick you, or come to you when you call its name.... The more you handle it and disturb it, the more you're going to unsettle it, upset it, stress it out and the more problems you're going to have such as feeding issues... rejecting feeds, etc. Reptiles have evolved for millions of years and snakes are paranoid creatures with nothing to gain and everything to lose from human encounters.


----------



## Bl69aze (Apr 21, 2018)

I’ve never understood the 2nd tub with feeding: your moving it into a tub where it’s going to get fed? It knows when it’s going to get fed anyway once it smells the food, as long as your hands don’t smell of food it won’t give you a feeding bite, (unless it’s starving)


----------



## dragonlover1 (Apr 21, 2018)

As a couple have said don't move it to feed it,snakes learn by repetition.I feed my Ants every Saturday,to gain their attention (if they are not already waiting) I tap on the glass with the feeding tongs, they understand this means food.
If I want to handle them it might be Wednesday or Thursday if at all,I touch them with the hook so they know I'm not feeding them then they are cool.
So basically if you hook them to feed them and hook them to handle them you confuse them, this is where cage defensive comes in because they think the hook means food so you might get bitten.
You say you want to " tame" it, just teach it 2 different ways to see you and you will be fine.


----------

