# Woodies feeding tips and tricks



## jaylikesbeef (Apr 25, 2012)

G'day all, been a long time follower/ browser but first post ever 

I was wondering if people can share some tips regarding feeding woodies in an enclosure with lots of hides and tight spaces? I've read a few threads and the popular options seems to be:

Using fluon AD-1 around the edges of the feeding bowl (although it seems to be widely debatable if the bits and pieces of dried fluon can be harmful for the lizards)
Feeding using tweezers (tiresome exercise if you have a colony of lizards)
chopping the heads off (I'm not sure how long they'll keep moving :shock
putting them in the fridge so they will likely be eaten before they get away

Anymore tips people have in their back pockets?

Cheers 
Jay


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## reptalica (Apr 25, 2012)

Think you've covered the main ones. Putting them in the fridge slows them down as much as u like and gives the lizard a chance to get to them before they escape as escape they r masters at.

The best methods for mine r what I said above and putting said roaches into a feeding tub lined with fluon.

I found with my beardie (now dec.) that he preferred the thrill of the chase. Problem is if he misses them that time, he more likely didn't get another chance.


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## leamos (Apr 25, 2012)

I use the fluon lined ramekin trick, I remove and reapply the fluon regularly and only apply a thin 1cm strip right at the lip. I also use a roach trap from herp shop to round up an escapees, great little product if you feed woodies


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## scorps (Apr 25, 2012)

Go and buy a 50 litre storage container,

cut a hole in the top, solder some fly screen there

put a 5cm band of fluon around the rim of the tub

put approx 10 or so egg cartons in one end of the tub, 

put two chinese containers in the other end

fill one chinese container up with dog food (constantly keep food in the container)

The other container put a carrot in twice a week

Now go and buy around 1000 adult or mixed woodies, (cost approx $80)

Apart from topping up food do not touch the woodies for three months, resist feeding any off let them build there numbers up.

So for a wait of 3 months and a total cost of around $100 this tub will feed a pretty big collection of animals and you will never have to buy live food again.

Dont listen to anyone that tells you they need special food, or water, wet cotton buds anything like that. 

I breed mine by the thousands and couldnt feed off to many if I tried.

I currently have a rack with three of these tubs, the top one I feed out of, after a month the top one goes to the bottom and the other two move up a place each and the cycle begins, 

I have over 50 mouths and dont need to do it this way and only the one tub would do me


Ben


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## Stevo2 (Apr 25, 2012)

I hand feed them to my frilly after dusting with calcium and/or vitamin powder in a ziplock bag.


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## jaylikesbeef (Apr 25, 2012)

scorps said:


> Go and buy a 50 litre storage container,
> 
> cut a hole in the top, solder some fly screen there
> 
> ...



Thanks for the breeding tip! Although that was not what thread is about 



reptalica said:


> Think you've covered the main ones. Putting them in the fridge slows them down as much as u like and gives the lizard a chance to get to them before they escape as escape they r masters at.
> 
> The best methods for mine r what I said above and putting said roaches into a feeding tub lined with fluon.
> 
> I found with my beardie (now dec.) that he preferred the thrill of the chase. Problem is if he misses them that time, he more likely didn't get another chance.



I am currently freezing the woodies for 5 minutes (so they are all on their backs when i take the container out) and cutting their legs so they can't ru (no joke, and this is pretty time-consuming :? and lame). I am not feeling too safe with using fluon on feeding bowls as I have Gillens and being monitors they flip their tongues a lot in the feeding bowl when they eat their woodies.


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## Ratatouile (Apr 25, 2012)

jaylikesbeef said:


> Using fluon AD-1 around the edges of the feeding bowl (although it seems to be widely debatable if the bits and pieces of dried fluon can be harmful for the lizards)



A reputable turtle breeder advised that fluon is carcinogenic (can cause cancer). Here is what he wrote on another forum:

(Carcinogenic Status Components (CAS#) Wt. % IARC Carcinogens) 
Product Name: FLUON TL-107
Product Code: 611107100
Trade Name: FLUON
(1) ACGIH 1999 - Carcinogens 
(2) OSHA - Select Carcinogens
(3) NTP Eighth Report - Known Carcinogens

APPROPRIATE METHOD OF DISPOSAL OF SUBSTANCE OR PREPARATION
Contact a licensed professional waste disposal service to dispose of this material. Dissolve or mix the material with a combustible solvent and burn in a chemical incinerator equipped with an afterburner and scrubber. Observe all federal, state, and local environmental regulations.
[FONT=verdana, arial, sans-serif]
I feed my dragons in a separate (large) feeding container. I find if the container is too small the dragon is too stressed to eat. I just put packing tape around the inside of the container then put vaseline on top of that. Put some woodies in and let my dragon eat as much as he wishes. The ones that don't get eaten go straight back to the breeding container. I guess if the feeding container is big enough you can even feed several of them together (under supervision).[/FONT]


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## MrBredli (Apr 25, 2012)

Crush their heads by pinching them with your thumb and forefinger placed either side of their head. This immobilizes them but doesn't stop them from wriggling about on their backs. Perfect for getting the attention of the animal to be fed and for preventing the prey from escaping.


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## jaylikesbeef (Apr 25, 2012)

thundermamma said:


> A reputable turtle breeder advised that fluon is carcinogenic (can cause cancer). Here is what he wrote on another forum:
> 
> (Carcinogenic Status Components (CAS#) Wt. % IARC Carcinogens)
> Product Name: FLUON TL-107
> ...



Thanks for that info mate, definitely didn't know it can potentially cause cancer :shock:


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