# Stable Heat Source



## Alchemy (Sep 10, 2013)

Hey,
Guys an Lady's I have been looking for a better source of heating, in the past I have Used Exotera globes, I have found they keep blowing every 2-3 weeks wich is rather costly, when I had a carpet we used a milo tin and adapted standard light fitting in, this worked really well. Problem was it was bulky and awkward, is there a better system maybe a flood light it needs to keep the hot spot at 36-38. im keeping a range of animals or starting to collect them again From Pygmy Pyhtons, water pythons, Stripe tail pygmy moniters, beared dragon, woma python.
Cheers


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## Lawra (Sep 11, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> Hey,
> Guys an Lady's I have been looking for a better source of heating, in the past I have Used Exotera globes, I have found they keep blowing every 2-3 weeks wich is rather costly, when I had a carpet we used a milo tin and adapted standard light fitting in, this worked really well. Problem was it was bulky and awkward, is there a better system maybe a flood light it needs to keep the hot spot at 36-38. im keeping a range of animals or starting to collect them again From Pygmy Pyhtons, water pythons, Stripe tail pygmy moniters, beared dragon, woma python.
> Cheers



Have you considered using a CHE for heat and LEDs for visible light?


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## Alchemy (Sep 11, 2013)

I had looked at them but wasn't to sure how good they are. I like LEDS so yer. Feed back on the CHE would be good.


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## dragondragon (Sep 11, 2013)

CHE have a long life ive had the same one in my tank for 2 years and it gets to the heat i need still.


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## Lawra (Sep 11, 2013)

I swapped from a red heat globe to a CHE and it's fantastic.


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## loungelizard (Sep 11, 2013)

I have a CUE that's going on for eight years old. It runs on a thermostat and has only ever been turned off to move enclosure from one house to another.


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## Alchemy (Sep 11, 2013)

What brand is the best? And what wattage?


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## DisturbedDave (Sep 11, 2013)

Strange that the ExoTerra spotties are blowing, wiring issue, or thermostat issue, maybe? What kind of thermostat are you using? If it is a on/off, or pulse, that could be your problem right there. Basking lights don't like being turned off and on constantly.

I'm not sure about pythons, but for your beardies/monitors, you should be looking at a CHE for maintaining enclosure temp, and a basking light to get your basking temp right.


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## Alchemy (Sep 11, 2013)

The light was running on a constant not a thermostat. I have now got one I'm not sure how good it is wasn't cheap off memory.


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## hunterschamps (Sep 11, 2013)

I had an issue with blowing globes too, but a friend told me handling the globes without a tissue/cloth would cause the life of them to shorten dramatically. I haven't blown a globe in 3 months since using this method.


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## Alchemy (Sep 11, 2013)

I spoke to a store they stopped stocking globes due to them blowing all the time.


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## DisturbedDave (Sep 11, 2013)

Sounds like that shop just doesn't want the responsibility of customer returns. Basking globes/MVB's, are the only true way to get a proper basking spot. I've had mine for 3 months with no issue, others have had theirs for a couple of years, no issue. 
You may have gotten some from a bad batch, or the store may be rough handling them, causing the elements to be more fragile than usual.

Handling them with cloth is a great idea, the same logic behind never touching car headlight globes with bare hands. The oil/dirt from our skin increases the heat trapped inside the globe, causing it to have a shorter life.

Most people on this forum are using basking globes, just look at the photos that are around on here. If it is a pet store, not a reptile store, that you are talking about. Then it wouldn't suprise me that they are giving bad advice. 2 out of 3 pet stores I have visited had no clue what they were talking about.


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## Alchemy (Sep 12, 2013)

They admited that as well. I totally understand that as well.


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## AirCooled (Sep 12, 2013)

I do prefer Reptile Radiators and CHE, I run them through pulse proportional thermostats without any problems over the last few years.


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## andynic07 (Sep 12, 2013)

DisturbedDave said:


> Sounds like that shop just doesn't want the responsibility of customer returns. Basking globes/MVB's, are the only true way to get a proper basking spot. I've had mine for 3 months with no issue, others have had theirs for a couple of years, no issue.
> You may have gotten some from a bad batch, or the store may be rough handling them, causing the elements to be more fragile than usual.
> 
> Handling them with cloth is a great idea, the same logic behind never touching car headlight globes with bare hands. The oil/dirt from our skin increases the heat trapped inside the globe, causing it to have a shorter life.
> ...


Partially true mate, The oil and dirt does not trap heat in making the filament more fragile. What actually happens is the oil on the glass stops that particular spot from heating at the same rate as the rest of the glass causing it to get a minute crack in it. The inside of the globe is inert meaning that there is no reaction going on with the metal filament and the gas around it, once the glass cracks it lets in normal air which contains oxygen. The oxygen oxidises the metal filament causing it to break. This only happens with high temperatures and also more readily when you use a cheap globe with thinner glass.


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## DisturbedDave (Sep 12, 2013)

I'm happy with partially true. Cheers for the correction, better than wrong information being out there  

Sent from my GT-I9305T using Tapatalk 4


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## andynic07 (Sep 12, 2013)

DisturbedDave said:


> I'm happy with partially true. Cheers for the correction, better than wrong information being out there
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9305T using Tapatalk 4


Partially true is a lot more than some people and the outcome of your information was not changed by how you got there.


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## Senator358 (Sep 12, 2013)

I use halogen down lights. Only need a 35w to maintain a 35 degree hot spot for pythons and a 50w for 40 degree hot spot for dragons. Pack of 4 from bunnings will set you back about $5 and they last for months.


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## andynic07 (Sep 12, 2013)

Senator358 said:


> I use halogen down lights. Only need a 35w to maintain a 35 degree hot spot for pythons and a 50w for 40 degree hot spot for dragons. Pack of 4 from bunnings will set you back about $5 and they last for months.


Do you cut the front glass off your halogen for UV as well? I have heard of people doing that but it is pretty dangerous.


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## Senator358 (Sep 12, 2013)

No. Halogens do not produce UVB in the spectrum needed for reptiles only UVA. I use separate reptisun ho tubes for dragons and turtles. Snakes don't need it.


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## andynic07 (Sep 12, 2013)

I think they produce all spectrums UV but not in large enough amounts. The cover filters out all UV light and some people were cutting this off to try take advantage of the UV but the primary function of the outer glass is to contain the explosion if the inner globe breaks.


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## Senator358 (Sep 12, 2013)

As you said they may produce a small amount of uvb but no where near enough for what you need. Cutting the globes seems nuts to me.


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## andynic07 (Sep 12, 2013)

Definitely not worth the risk for virtually no reward.


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## Bluetongue1 (Sep 13, 2013)

What is immediately evident to me is that you have three distinct groups based on their requirements... (i) Terrestrial pythons that are essentially nocturnal, do not need to climb and do not require exposure to UVB light so long as they are fed whole vertebrates; (ii) Dragons which require exposure to relatively high levels of UVB light and a basking spot temperature that is relatively hot; (iii) Monitors which do not require exposure to UVB light as long as whole vertebrates are included as a significant part of their diet and which require the hottest basking temperatures.

When it comes to heating, there is more than one way to achieve the required effects. The following are simply my preferences (with reasons).

Terrestrial pythons are known to shelter under shallow heated rocks to absorb their heat. A heat cord covered by a slate or ceramic tile provides an excellent, safe and cheap to run mimic of what they would often use in nature. By adjusting the length of cord under the tile the desired temperature can be obtained without the need for a thermostat. There are a number of threads here that describe how to construct this easily made heating appliance. If you have any trouble locating, just let me know. Daytime lighting is not required where light from a window or skylight is adequate but if desired, light is cheaply provided by a straight, full spectrum (white) fluorescent tube or LED strip lighting.

Dragons in nature expect to get their heat, UVB and light from the one source – the sun. The best artificial alternative is a Mercury Vapour Bulb (MVB). Due to the amount heat put out by these, they can only be used in large enclosures. In a smaller enclosure, a spotlight globe and a compact fluoro UVB 10, both with reflectors, focussed on the basking spot will achieve the desired effects. By experimenting with the wattage of the spot light, you will be able to determine the required wattage to produce the desired temperature and a thermostat will not be needed. You can, if needed, simply change the wattage for different seasons. With adult lizards, if the beam from the spotlight (30[SUP]o[/SUP]) is too narrow, then switch to a floodlight (60[SUP]o[/SUP]). 

Monitors require particularly hot basking spots but do not need UVB light if fed whole vertebrates. The basking spot for monitors should provide light and heat, which is what they expect in nature. A stack (sometimes known as “Retes Stack” after Frank Retes who popularised its use) is strongly advised, the top of which is the basking spot. A spotlight or floodlight focussed on top of the stack provides the needed basking spot as well as a gradation of temperatures down through its levels. Once again, correct choice of wattages of bulbs obviates the need for use of a thermostat. I will add that _Varanus caudolineatus_ require a basking spot of 50[SUP]o[/SUP]C – 60[SUP]o[/SUP]C and need to be kept very dry. Bear in mind these are an arboreal lizard and so should be housed in an enclosure of appropriate height. Some info: http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/australian-lizards-5383/v-caudolineatus-140981/#post1753910

Blue


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## Alchemy (Sep 16, 2013)

Hey,
thanks for the replys so I had a look at CHE's, the price was a little high considering the heat out put for a 100w, so I am going to try A Flood light to start with 150 watt cost $9 I also got my self a themo stat when connected I got a reading 43c and climbing with in a minut I was impressed to say the least.
cheers


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