# Hatchling Jacky Dragon Care Sheet



## Jdsixtyone (Nov 22, 2009)

Ok what do you think of this? Any corrections what i should make?


*Hatchling Jacky Dragon Care sheet*


*Hatchling Care:*
Hatchling Jacky Dragons are very small when they are young (2-3 centimeters in body length). Once the eggs hatch I put all the hatchlings into a 2ft long (60cm) melamine tank. For substrate I use washed river sand. All reptiles need to have a cool end and a hot end so they can regulate their body temperature. I do this by placing a 60watt Exo- Terra infrared light at one end of the enclosure and a water dish at the other end. I use a Large Exo-Terra water dish as I find that hatchlings will swim a lot and then lick the droplets of water of their body’s, i also mist my Jacky Dragons every third day. I only fill the water dish to about 1 centimeter deep, as hatchlings can drown very easily. I replace their water once a day and clean out any defecates. Their basking temperature is set at 30 degrees as I find this helps hatchlings digest food. The cool end is kept at room temperature (which is normally around 20 degrees). Under the globe I place a piece of sandstone or slate. All Dragons require UVB. This can be beneficial to their growth but not a good as sunlight. I try to take my lizards out side 2-3 times a week for 30 minutes to an hour. I put the tub half in/out of shade as the tubs do get quiet hot and the animals need a spot to cool of. My tubs what I use are the 30L Starmaid tubs what have a 20cm long by 30cm long hole cut into the lid with fly mesh glued over the top. In their tank (Inside) I provide UVB by using special florescent tube available from pet shops. I have had a great deal of success with the inexpensive 24 inch NEC T10 Black light Florescent Tubes as these fit perfect onto my tank. I replace the tube every 6 months as it starts to produce less UVB as it gets older. I feed the hatchlings 2 small crickets each every third day. Every second feed I place the required amount of crickets into a zip-lock bag and sprinkle a bit of calcium powder onto them. I then shake the bag until the crickets bodies are covered with the powder. Cages can be as simple or complex as you like. The more complex the cage, the more time it will take to clean out. For my display enclosures I put a lot of cage furnishings in. Every month I will completely take the tank outside to clean it with disinfectant and then hose it down. After I have cleaned the cage with disinfectant I leave the enclosure outside for about 30 minutes to air, as disinfectant leaves a strong scent behind. I sieve the sand to get rid of any bulk bits of sand and any defecates I may have forgotten to remove out of the tank. After 6 months I will remove the rest of the lizards out of the cage until there are 4 animals in each cage. After 1 year I place a trio of dragons (1 male with 2 females) into a 4ft x 2ft x 2ft melamine tank. 

© 2009 Snakemadness​


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## JACKYDRAGON2010 (Jun 14, 2010)

great info


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## James..94 (Jun 14, 2010)

Good info mate
But..... I would recommend keeping the baby dragons in Chinese containers until they are successfully feeding on insects. I have also found that sand is not the best substrate as they are very messy dragons and will swallow some sand, so hatches are best kept on paper towel/newspaper and then transferred onto peat moss (which will not harm them if ingested) at about the age of 6 months.
Once they are moved into the bigger enclosure place some sticks in the enclosure as they are very curious dragons and it will increase there appetite (if not feeding well).


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## TassieHerper (Jun 14, 2010)

Sounds like some great info. I would make it more point specific as in more sub fields like

Diet
Enclosure size
Enclosure temp
Humidity
Minimum furnishing
Recommended substrate and why
Heat source eg. heat rocks or lamp

And fill in the info accordingly.


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## Kristy_07 (Jun 14, 2010)

snakemadness said:


> Any corrections what i should make?



I'm imagining there might be a few...


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## Jdsixtyone (Jun 14, 2010)

haha this was ages ago like when i first got them....in the holidays i am going to write a more complex one.


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## smartmonkey (Jun 14, 2010)

Just peeked under recent herp discussion and my mind read hatchling dragon, clicked it the realised how stupid and tired I am


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## Kristy_07 (Jun 14, 2010)

snakemadness said:


> *Hatchling Care:*
> Hatchling Jacky Dragons are very small when they are young (2-3 centimeters in body length). Once the eggs hatch, I put all the hatchlings into a 2ft long (60cm) melamine tank. For substrate, I use washed river sand. All reptiles need to have a cool end and a hot end, so they can regulate their body temperature. I provide this by placing a 60watt Exo- Terra infrared light at one end of the enclosure and a water dish at the other end. I use a Large Exo-Terra water dish, as I find that hatchlings will swim a lot and then lick the droplets of water off their bodies. I also "mist" my Jacky Dragons every third day, using a spray bottle. I only fill the water dish to about 1 centimeter deep, as hatchlings can drown very easily. I replace their water once a day and clean out any defecates. Their basking temperature is set at 30 degrees, as I find this helps hatchlings digest food. The cool end is kept at room temperature, which is normally around 20 degrees. Under the globe, I place a piece of sandstone or slate. All Dragons require UVB. This is beneficial to their growth, but not a good as sunlight. I try to take my lizards outside 2-3 times a week, for 30 minutes to an hour. I put their enclosure half in, half out of the shade, as the tubs get quite hot and the animals need an area to cool down. The enclosures that I use are 30L Starmaid tubs, which have a 20cm by 30cm long hole cut into the lid with fly mesh glued over the top. Inside their tank, I provide UVB by using a special florescent tube available from pet shops. I have had a great deal of success with the inexpensive 24-inch NEC T10 Black light Florescent Tubes, as these fit perfectly onto my tank. I replace the tube every 6 months, as it starts to produce less UVB as it gets older. I feed the hatchlings 2 small crickets each every third day. Every second feed, I place the required amount of crickets into a zip-lock bag and sprinkle some calcium powder onto them. I then shake the bag until the crickets bodies are covered with the powder. Cages can be as simple or complex as you like. The more complex the cage, the more time it will take to clean out. For my display enclosures, I put a lot of cage furnishings in. Every month I will completely take the tank outside to clean it with disinfectant and then hose it down. After I have cleaned the cage with disinfectant, I leave the enclosure outside for about 30 minutes to air, as disinfectant leaves behind a strong scent. I sieve the substrate to get rid of any bulk bits of sand and any defecates I may have forgotten to remove out of the tank. After 6 months I will remove the rest of the lizards out of the cage until there are 4 animals in each cage (you need to make the meaning of this sentence clearer. What is "the rest of the lizards"?). After 1 year I place a trio of dragons (1 male with 2 females) into a 4ft x 2ft x 2ft melamine tank.
> 
> © 2009 Snakemadness​



Good info, mate. Grammar needs a bit of work. Changes are in blue.


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## Kristy_07 (Jun 14, 2010)

Agreed - I thought you must have been doing an assignment, so I thought I was helping


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## Jdsixtyone (Jun 14, 2010)

Thanks Kristy


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## bluereptile (Jun 14, 2010)

this will help out alot, needs a bit of work but good job


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