# Black Melamine



## coastal-shagg (Dec 3, 2013)

Ive been able to source some black melamine from bunnings at tuggerah, they said it was actually cheaper then the white version which is suprising. They mentioned that you should use a scribe saw to cut the sheets with instead of your average table saw because it gives a better finish. 

Has anyone tried this with or without cutting with a scribe saw? 
how did it turn out?

Looking at building some enclosures but dont wanna make it look ****e.

Thanks


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## Tristan (Dec 3, 2013)

have not tried my self, but a thinner saw blade with smaller teeth will mean you get less chipping on the edges where your cutting


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## Pythoninfinite (Dec 3, 2013)

Is that just the melamine (Laminex or Formica or whatever) sheet, or the coated particleboard? The melamine used for covering benchtops etc is a "scribe & snap" product, but is simply a coating to be glued to a substrate using contact adhesive. The black melamine-coated particleboard was quoted to me by Bunnings @ around $166 per sheet, more than 4 times the cost of white. Most supplies will have the black product significantly more expensive than white.

Jamie


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## The_Geeza (Dec 3, 2013)

Yes I'm near tuggerah and interested to know all about this ??? Lisarow actually lol


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## coastal-shagg (Dec 3, 2013)

Pythoninfinite said:


> Is that just the melamine (Laminex or Formica or whatever) sheet, or the coated particleboard? The melamine used for covering benchtops etc is a "scribe & snap" product, but is simply a coating to be glued to a substrate using contact adhesive. The black melamine-coated particleboard was quoted to me by Bunnings @ around $166 per sheet, more than 4 times the cost of white. Most supplies will have the black product significantly more expensive than white.
> 
> Jamie



The way he described it to me (telephone conversation) is that it was the same stuff kitchen companies make cupboards out of but in black and not white. He said 1800x595mm was $20.95 he said the product code was "black EIL" if i was to ring back and order it


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## Marzzy (Dec 3, 2013)

View attachment 301677


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## Darwin (Dec 3, 2013)

I just finished building some enclosures for a mate using black melamine from bunnings in Melbourne. It wasn't dear at all. We used a circular saw to cut it careful with a straight edge and the result was that the underneath edges were perfect but top was a bit chipped. All we did was have the good side facing out.


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## Darwin (Dec 3, 2013)

I don't know why it came out upside down


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## The_Geeza (Dec 3, 2013)

So bunnings don't have it but can order it?


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## Darwin (Dec 3, 2013)

My bunnings had it on the shelf


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## coastal-shagg (Dec 3, 2013)

Tuggerah don't have it in Stock but you can order it and you should have it within the week. 

Thanks for getting back to me regarding the cutting of the stuff. Those enclosures look awesome.


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## Shaggz (Dec 3, 2013)

I was looking on the bunnings website the other day and the price that coastal-shagg has quoted is the price on the website for 16mm sheet so it isn't just the laminate. I was rather surprised after reading so often how black is extremely more expensive than the white.

In answer to the OP use the finest toothed saw you can find whether it be circular, Jigsaw etc. and something I have found that also helps a little is to run a strip of masking tape along the cut line on either side.


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## Umbral (Dec 3, 2013)

I have been using black form ply to make my most recent enclosures. It seems to be better quality than melamine and the black gloss just wipes clean. It's about the same price as melamine and at this stage I won't be changing back.


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## coastal-shagg (Dec 3, 2013)

Thanks for your replies, 

umbral, when would you normally use this stuff? I cant picture it in my head? 

I'm glad no one has said that I have to scroll it first. I'll probably put something up about my build progress. Thanks for all the help


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## Shaggz (Dec 3, 2013)

Form ply is used by concreters to frame up all sorts of stuff made of concrete, comes in large sheets like melamine and is probably a lot more water resistant too. It is a laminated plywood rather than a laminated particle board which also makes it a lot stronger than melamine.


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## coastal-shagg (Dec 3, 2013)

Oh ok great. Thanks


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## Umbral (Dec 3, 2013)

Thanks for the reply Shagz, was a bit busy.


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## Sheldoncooper (Dec 3, 2013)

I use a circular saw to cut mine however I wrap packing tape around the melamine where im going to cut it stops the edges chipping and I don't have to worry about marking my lines on the melamine.


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## Lawra (Dec 3, 2013)

If you don't have a circular saw with a scribe I really wouldn't suggest using a jigsaw... Chips and rips and makes a terrible mess.

If I'm doing something last minute at home and cbf to drive to the workshop to use the saw, I use a multitool (like those 'renovator' tools advertised on tv which vibrate on the spot) and a long metal ruler or level.

The masking tape trick works well with this method too


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## Pythoninfinite (Dec 4, 2013)

I'm still a bit confused... I had a look on the Bunnings website and their "Colourboard" listings, and I see black is available only in the smaller sizes people use for shelving etc. Does anyone know if it is available in 2400x1200 HMR sheets? HMR (matrix has a greenish tinge) is the only material that will give a reasonable service life in a reptile enclosure. I wouldn't touch the non moisture-resistant shelving material because it's almost impossible to fully moisture-proof an enclosure, and the standard chipboard just swells & turns to sawdust when it gets wet.

As I said, I was quoted nearly 4x the price of white for black HMR chipboard at Bunnings here in Port Macquarie.

Jamie


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## Lawra (Dec 4, 2013)

Jamie, I'm guessing when you went on the Bunnings website you used your current location? For comparison perhaps change store to that of OP and you may be surprised at a) availability and b) price difference. I recently had a disagreement with Bunnings management regarding a similar matter.


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## coastal-shagg (Dec 4, 2013)

*thanks*



Pythoninfinite said:


> I'm still a bit confused... I had a look on the Bunnings website and their "Colourboard" listings, and I see black is available only in the smaller sizes people use for shelving etc. Does anyone know if it is available in 2400x1200 HMR sheets? HMR (matrix has a greenish tinge) is the only material that will give a reasonable service life in a reptile enclosure. I wouldn't touch the non moisture-resistant shelving material because it's almost impossible to fully moisture-proof an enclosure, and the standard chipboard just swells & turns to sawdust when it gets wet.
> 
> As I said, I was quoted nearly 4x the price of white for black HMR chipboard at Bunnings here in Port Macquarie.
> 
> Jamie



Yea when i was on the phone to him, even he seemed suprised with the price. he double checked it and then checked with the manager. the bigger sheet i can order is 18oox595. but after hearing about the form ply im going to check that out. especially if its stronger and more water resistant. 

The packing tape idea is a great idea. Im assuming your talking about proper plastic packing tape and not masking tape?

thanks again.


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## coastal-shagg (Dec 4, 2013)

apparently in QLD they use a different supplier to get the white melamine from the black which makes it more expensive but in NSW and ACT they use the same supplier and it makes it a little cheaper for the white stuff. not sure about anywhere else thou


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## Pythoninfinite (Dec 4, 2013)

Lawra said:


> Jamie, I'm guessing when you went on the Bunnings website you used your current location? For comparison perhaps change store to that of OP and you may be surprised at a) availability and b) price difference. I recently had a disagreement with Bunnings management regarding a similar matter.



Hi Lawra, thanks for that. I just went to the Bunnings generic website, not the local store website. It's pretty obvious that the stuff being sold cheaply is not HMR, it's just material used for home handypersons to build bookshelves etc. The smaller "handyman sizes" are the same as the white material sold for the same purposes, and are not water resistant. Black melamine HMR is always sold at a premium price.

The only chipboard material I would ever use is HMR (moisture resistant), characterised by a greenish tinge in the material itself, because once a bit of water from a spill or condensation (a big poo on or under a heat source for example) gets under the melamine film in the plain stuff, it just swells and falls to pieces.

The black-coated formply sounds like a good product, would certainly be almost waterproof, but may be a bit rough-looking on the edges or the outside.

I'be been getting a bit of material from NOVER lately - a better quality product than that sold by Bunnings, and they have a range of colours. Costs a few bucks more per 2400x1200 sheet, but it's nicer to work with.


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## Lawra (Dec 4, 2013)

Pythoninfinite said:


> Hi Lawra, thanks for that. I just went to the Bunnings generic website, not the local store website. It's pretty obvious that the stuff being sold cheaply is not HMR, it's just material used for home handypersons to build bookshelves etc. The smaller "handyman sizes" are the same as the white material sold for the same purposes, and are not water resistant. Black melamine HMR is always sold at a premium price.
> 
> The only chipboard material I would ever use is HMR (moisture resistant), characterised by a greenish tinge in the material itself, because once a bit of water from a spill or condensation (a big poo on or under a heat source for example) gets under the melamine film in the plain stuff, it just swells and falls to pieces.
> 
> ...



I'm with you on the HMR, can't imagine using anything else. Although I'm also slightly biased and wouldn't ever buy Bunnings melamine. Sorry, I'd better qualify: I'd never use Bunnings chipboard if it involved me having to cut it. I really hope everyone wears dust masks and safety glasses! The glue is toxic as is the dust that explodes when you cut it (as an aside, Bunnings benchtops are even worse. Try finding a cabinetmaker who will cut mitre joins for their DIY modular kitchens).

There are some great suppliers out there, Jamie. I personally favour Laminex but they're all fairly well on par these days. I used to love our Nover rep, she was a lovely lass 

If you find someone who has (or you may already have) a trade license, suppliers prices become a lot more competitive and you get a much better product  Failing that, make friends with a local cabinetmaker!


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## The_Geeza (Dec 4, 2013)

Absolute rubbish... Cheap bunnings melamine is fine... Just seal up all edges with silicone ( white bathroom) and lasts forever


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## Lawra (Dec 4, 2013)

MidsReps said:


> Absolute rubbish... Cheap bunnings melamine is fine... Just seal up all edges with silicone ( white bathroom) and lasts forever



Ahh *brain explosion*

What do you consider to be 'fine'?

Just checking but as far as I'm aware bathroom silicones contain mould and mildew resistance = unsuitable for use in enclosures.

Dear me...


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## Lawra (Dec 4, 2013)

Unless you were joking... Did I misinterpret your sarcasm? Oops


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## Ramsayi (Dec 4, 2013)

Lawra said:


> Just checking but as far as I'm aware bathroom silicones contain mould and mildew resistance = unsuitable for use in enclosures.



Why is it unsuitable for enclosures exactly?


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## Lawra (Dec 4, 2013)

Ramsayi said:


> Why is it unsuitable for enclosures exactly?



Aww come on man, really?


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## Ramsayi (Dec 4, 2013)

Lawra said:


> Aww come on man, really?



Yeah really.What is so wrong with using it in an enclosure?


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## Lawra (Dec 4, 2013)

Ramsayi said:


> Yeah really.What is so wrong with using it in an enclosure?



It clearly states on technical data sheets that silicones containing mould and mildew resistance are not safe for use in aquariums.

Unless I'm the only one who considers a safety factor necessary I think you'll find that others agree with me.

Aside from that - it's common sense. Why put a substance containing harsh chemicals into a closed space to leech out and potentially harm reptiles?

Edit: Water, moisture or humid air can cause hazardous vapour to form.


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## Skitzmixer (Dec 4, 2013)

You can get aquarium safe silicon from Bunning's that's clear.. If that's safe to be submerged in water one would think it would be ok for an enclosure.


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## Lawra (Dec 4, 2013)

Skitzmixer said:


> You can get aquarium safe silicon from Bunning's that's clear.. If that's safe to be submerged in water one would think it would be ok for an enclosure.



Yes. It states on the tube "neutral cure" and doesn't say "mould and mildew resistant".

Silicone is fantastic, I swear by it for most things. However it is important to be aware that there are many different grades and the correct SAFE one needs to be used.


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## Ramsayi (Dec 4, 2013)

Lawra said:


> It clearly states on technical data sheets that silicones containing mould and mildew resistance are not safe for use in aquariums.
> 
> Unless I'm the only one who considers a safety factor necessary I think you'll find that others agree with me.
> 
> ...



An enclosure is totally different to an aquarium.

I don't agree with you about a so called safety factor? 

Common sense or a total over reaction? It wont leach out unless permanently submerged in water.


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## Lawra (Dec 4, 2013)

Ramsayi said:


> An enclosure is totally different to an aquarium.
> 
> I don't agree with you about a so called safety factor?
> 
> Common sense or a total over reaction? It wont leach out unless permanently submerged in water.



"Water, moisture or humid air can cause hazardous vapour to form" would not be specifically written on a MSDS if it weren't true.

It's quite ok with me if we leave it at this and agree to disagree. I don't feel I am over reacting but of course that is a matter of personal opinion


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## The_Geeza (Dec 4, 2013)

Lawra said:


> Unless you were joking... Did I misinterpret your sarcasm? Oops


You don't have to take my word for it.....I'll go ask my older snakes if it's ok or not


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## The_Geeza (Dec 4, 2013)

Safety data sheets have to list every extreme instance... In this case once fully cured there r no problems .... Unless u constantly submerge for long periods there is no risk factor


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## Ramsayi (Dec 4, 2013)

MidsReps said:


> Unless u constantly submerge for long periods there is no risk factor



Seems you have no common sense either! :cry:


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## The_Geeza (Dec 4, 2013)

Ramsayi said:


> Seems you have no common sense either! :cry:


Meaning?


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## Ramsayi (Dec 4, 2013)

post #32


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## The_Geeza (Dec 4, 2013)

Ramsayi said:


> post #32


Stop contradicting threads and make your mind up.. U spend all your time with sarcasm and u trying to be smart... What's ya problem? Tell all!


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## The_Geeza (Dec 4, 2013)

Post #35 ***


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## Ramsayi (Dec 4, 2013)

In post #32 Laura wrote that it's common sense not to use it in enclosures.Since you agree with me that it is ok then you too have no common sense according to her.


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## Lawra (Dec 4, 2013)

Popcorn anyone? 

Seriously though guys, how is anyone supposed to learn from reading this thread if we go around in circles?

Bottom line there are two options: 

1) play it safe and don't take the risk 

or

2) determine the risk minimal enough and use whatever silicone you want.


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## The_Geeza (Dec 4, 2013)

Mechanical fitter mate no deg here lol


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## dragondragon (Dec 4, 2013)

Why would you use white sealer on black melamine. From what i have heard and been told its not safe to use any sealer with mold resistance so why would you take the risk on your animals health for something a little cheaper.


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## Newhere (Dec 4, 2013)

I've read on the internet that its not safe either, but I've also read that if I wanna put a stick or branch in my enclosure I have to scrub it with bleach and then put it in the oven lol.

Its hard to know whats right and what isn't but if these blokes have been doing it for years with no problems then it makes me wonder if there is any safety issues or if its just paranoia.


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## andynic07 (Dec 4, 2013)

Newhere said:


> I've read on the internet that its not safe either, but I've also read that if I wanna put a stick or branch in my enclosure I have to scrub it with bleach and then put it in the oven lol.
> 
> Its hard to know whats right and what isn't but if these blokes have been doing it for years with no problems then it makes me wonder if there is any safety issues or if its just paranoia.


The big difference with this case is that the information about it being harmful was not just read on the internet it was found on an MSDS which holds a lot more credit than an internet forum, with that being said if someone has been there and done that without seeing and harmful effects in the short term or long term then you also have to take that into consideration. I would also keep in mind that just because something does not kill your reptile doesn't mean it is the best thing for your snake. Sometimes a bit of logic combined with common sense and coupled with experience is the best way to approach decision making with regard to your reptile.


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## Snowman (Dec 4, 2013)

I just use aquarium silicone. It's just a bead around the edges to seal it all. I think even if it was toxic there wouldn't be enough to harm any of my reptiles. Haven't had any problems since 2009. I also used the cheap white bunnings melamine. It's made by laminex in Perth Bunnings. It's not moisture resistant, but I've sealed the joins well with silicone and the laminate seems to hold moisture out of the particle board so far. 
I've left a piece outside and I've seen how it swells and disintegrates with moisture though. It doesn't look like it will have any problems with my enclosures yet though.


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## Lawra (Dec 4, 2013)

Snowman said:


> It's made by laminex in Perth Bunnings.



I know it's not overly relevant but this statement has me very confused. Please elaborate?


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## Snowman (Dec 4, 2013)

Lawra said:


> I know it's not overly relevant but this statement has me very confused. Please elaborate?


The white melamine at bunnings in perth has laminex group stickers on it. Laminex make a lot of melamine products.


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## Lawra (Dec 4, 2013)

Snowman said:


> The white melamine at bunnings in perth has laminex group stickers on it



Ahh interesting! Thank you


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## Newhere (Dec 4, 2013)

Does it just say not suitable for aquariums on the msds? I just had a look on the selleys website it just says not suitable for aquariums or potable water containers. Also it says it releases some chemical while curing but I doubt it would release any chemical after it is cured and its designed for warm humid environments so I doubt they would make something thats going to release chemicals while you're having a warm shower. 

Anyway those msds things are a bit over the top sometimes but I understand your point.


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## reptishack101 (Dec 4, 2013)

the scribe is just a small blade that cuts just through the laminate on the bottom side of the board means no chips and it would be on a panel saw so it would be alot quicker and easier to cut it on but not every one has a panel saw if you want just go to a kitchen place and tell them the sizes you want but if your not worried about chips use a straight edge and circular saw get a blade with more teeth means less chips and use masking tape might help out on the chips a little more as well


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## andynic07 (Dec 4, 2013)

Newhere said:


> Does it just say not suitable for aquariums on the msds? I just had a look on the selleys website it just says not suitable for aquariums or potable water containers. Also it says it releases some chemical while curing but I doubt it would release any chemical after it is cured and its designed for warm humid environments so I doubt they would make something thats going to release chemicals while you're having a warm shower.
> 
> Anyway those msds things are a bit over the top sometimes but I understand your point.


This is an extract of the MSDS that Lawra was quoting.


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## Newhere (Dec 4, 2013)

Lol seems like a great product for a bathroom sealer then.


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## andynic07 (Dec 4, 2013)

Yeah that seemed a little strange to me as well.


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## coastal-shagg (Dec 4, 2013)

reptishack101 said:


> the scribe is just a small blade that cuts just through the laminate on the bottom side of the board means no chips and it would be on a panel saw so it would be alot quicker and easier to cut it on but not every one has a panel saw if you want just go to a kitchen place and tell them the sizes you want but if your not worried about chips use a straight edge and circular saw get a blade with more teeth means less chips and use masking tape might help out on the chips a little more as well



Thank you for your reply. I've read through all the conjecture and I think I'm going to stick with melamine (cheaper then form ply, $21 compared to $66 ) and use aquarium safe clear silicone. I'm sure that will be Fine. Can anyone see a problem with that combo?


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## Snowman (Dec 5, 2013)

coastal-shagg said:


> Thank you for your reply. I've read through all the conjecture and I think I'm going to stick with melamine (cheaper then form ply, $21 compared to $66 ) and use aquarium safe clear silicone. I'm sure that will be Fine. Can anyone see a problem with that combo?



It will be fine. Just make sure you seal the hell out of the joins so it could almost hold water 
I cut the silicon nozzle down a bit for a wider stream/bead of silicon. As a sparky (maybe ex sparky) we use spit on our fingers to smooth it into the right angle, but a damp sponge would probably do the trick.


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## slide (Dec 5, 2013)

I put a coat or two of water based cabots clear varnish on the cut ends of melamine prior to assembly to seal the exposed ends then I sikaflex (or silicon) the joins. This gives added protection from moisture should the silicon come away in the future. Its not necessary but I enjoy the peace of mind given the time it takes to apply and dry Vs building a new enclosure. 

Aaron


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## SpilotaFreak78 (Dec 6, 2013)

Oh good, I can actually make some cages or racks with something other than boring old white melamine


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## Umbral (Dec 6, 2013)

The formply I got was $24 for a 1200L must have found a bargain


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## andynic07 (Dec 6, 2013)

Umbral said:


> The formply I got was $24 for a 1200L must have found a bargain


Wow that sounds cheap for form ply. 1200 is also half a sheet isn't it.


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## Umbral (Dec 6, 2013)

My local bunnings had both sizes and it's only a small bunnings.


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## andynic07 (Dec 6, 2013)

Umbral said:


> My local bunnings had both sizes and it's only a small bunnings.


That is a good price for a half sheet.


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## KingSirloin (Dec 6, 2013)

Anyone wanting to cut melamine without chipping on a tablesaw without a scribe blade can do one or both of two things. 

1/ Make up a zero clearance insert. It's the metal bit that comes off the table so you can change blades. Trace around it on a piece of same thickness wood, place the wood insert into the slot, have a weight on it away from the area of the blade, and slowly raise the blade to cut a slit in it. (This can be dangerous if the blade picks up the back of it. The metal insert is heavy and doesn't make contact with the blade. The wood insert is light and does make contact......forget about it next time you raise the blade and it will throw the insert in your face!!! ).

What this does is provide support for the resin where the blade exits the melamine and passes through the zero clearance slot.

2/ Run the melamine through the saw with the blade set at barely 1mm. This plays the part of the scribe blade. Then raise the blade so half the blade tooth sits just above the surface and make the final cut. "Step 2 does not need a zero clearance insert".

A fine tooth (60 - 80 teeth) blade is recommended. Higher the better.

A plunge saw with a guide rail is also another option but you still need to make the 1mm pass.


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## Tinky (Dec 6, 2013)

You may also need black sealing strip, (ie iron on edging) to cover any exposed edge. Or you could paint it black, (great song) to seal and hide.


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## Pythoninfinite (Dec 6, 2013)

Just to rip the scab off the silicone debate again... I've always used neutral cure kitchen & bathroom sealant with my enclosures, with no apparent problems. I think you'll find that the hazards indicated in the MSDS are released during cure. Most silicones (neutral and acid cure) are extremely stable for many years once fully cured. If they continued to outgas over a long period of time, they would very likely noticeably deteriorate as they age.

Don't forget that we place our animals in enclosures made from particleboard which has formaldehyde (less now, but still there) as an adhesive component to hold the matrix together. I wonder how much of this noxious, carcinogenic gas migrates through the thin melamine coating into the enclosed, poorly ventilated space in which our reptiles live. Even if you keep your snakes inside your house, they are exposed to a whole range of airborne chemicals, from kitchen fumes, carpet chemical outgassing, cabinetry and paint chemical outgassing. I would suggest that a minute bead of mould resistant silicone is very unlikely to cause any problems for a reptile inhabitant, considering all the other noxious substances they are exposed to.

Jamie


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## The_Geeza (Dec 6, 2013)

^^^perfectly written


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## Umbral (Dec 6, 2013)

andynic07 said:


> That is a good price for a half sheet.



I thought so too, I have a double bay and a single that sits on top of the double built from it now. Even at the higher price if it goes up I can't see myself going back to melamine. Personal preference I guess.


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## eipper (Dec 6, 2013)

Acetic cure silicone produces gas while it cures. Submerged it will leach into the water, as does neutral cure.
Go into your kitchen and bath room the silicones used by tradesman are usually acetic for everything except when contact with metal.


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## eipper (Dec 6, 2013)

Btw once cured acetic cure and neutral cure m&m resistant are approved for use around food prep areas


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## Lawra (Dec 6, 2013)

Pythoninfinite said:


> Just to rip the scab off the silicone debate again...
> Jamie



Aww ok Jamie, I concede.


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## andynic07 (Dec 6, 2013)

Pythoninfinite said:


> Just to rip the scab off the silicone debate again... I've always used neutral cure kitchen & bathroom sealant with my enclosures, with no apparent problems. I think you'll find that the hazards indicated in the MSDS are released during cure. Most silicones (neutral and acid cure) are extremely stable for many years once fully cured. If they continued to outgas over a long period of time, they would very likely noticeably deteriorate as they age.
> 
> Don't forget that we place our animals in enclosures made from particleboard which has formaldehyde (less now, but still there) as an adhesive component to hold the matrix together. I wonder how much of this noxious, carcinogenic gas migrates through the thin melamine coating into the enclosed, poorly ventilated space in which our reptiles live. Even if you keep your snakes inside your house, they are exposed to a whole range of airborne chemicals, from kitchen fumes, carpet chemical outgassing, cabinetry and paint chemical outgassing. I would suggest that a minute bead of mould resistant silicone is very unlikely to cause any problems for a reptile inhabitant, considering all the other noxious substances they are exposed to.
> 
> Jamie



Hence the need to take into consideration the stories of the people who have been there and done that.


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## Umbral (Dec 6, 2013)

andynic07 said:


> Wow that sounds cheap for form ply. 1200 is also half a sheet isn't it.



I just realised that that sheet is 1200 wide, the ones I got were 1200x600 so 1/4 the size hence the price. At those dimensions they are perfect for the size I like to build with no cutting required.


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## Blinky (Dec 6, 2013)

I know my local bunnings can get in black melamine for the same price as white ( Gosford ). Not sure if it's HMR or not but doesn't really make a difference. I know a breeder who has been using the cheap melamine just sealed with 'no more gaps' ( obviously non toxic one ) for a good 12 years and all his enclosures are still standing. Only problem with black melamine is that I cannot find black glass tracks >.<


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## coastal-shagg (Dec 6, 2013)

So I ended up buying the formply, cost a fair bit extra but now have a bit more peace of mind I guess. I'll keep you all up to speed with the progress of everything if anyone is interested. 

I too wish they made black glass tracks. May have to vinyl over them or something. I was told that I can mix 1 part water with 1 part wood glue to seal all the ends up. Wait until dry and then use the black edging to finish it off. I think I'll still be sticking with the aquarium silicon for the corners of the whole thing though. 

Thanks again everyone


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## Shaggz (Dec 8, 2013)

they should last the rest of your lifetime being made from form ply 

Run a build thread so we can all keep an eye on how you are going


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## coastal-shagg (Dec 14, 2013)

Shaggz said:


> they should last the rest of your lifetime being made from form ply
> 
> Run a build thread so we can all keep an eye on how you are going



I did, go and check it out. any info would be great!


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## tahnia666 (Jan 2, 2014)

coastal-shagg said:


> Ive been able to source some black melamine from bunnings at tuggerah, they said it was actually cheaper then the white version which is suprising. They mentioned that you should use a scribe saw to cut the sheets with instead of your average table saw because it gives a better finish.
> 
> Has anyone tried this with or without cutting with a scribe saw?
> how did it turn out?
> ...


Is a scribe saw the same as a scroll saw? I cut mine on band saw and it came up nice. But I'm not awesome at straight lines  I wouldn't even attempt it with a scroll saw, lol it'd come out looking like bass straight


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## KingSirloin (Jan 2, 2014)

tahnia666 said:


> Is a scribe saw the same as a scroll saw? I cut mine on band saw and it came up nice. But I'm not awesome at straight lines  I wouldn't even attempt it with a scroll saw, lol it'd come out looking like bass straight



A scribe saw is nothing like a scroll saw. A scribe saw is a tiny circular saw that spins in front of the main blade of a panel saw. A scroll saw is a tiny version in some ways to a band saw in operation and is for fine intricate work.
Google scroll saw and scribe saw (blade).


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## tahnia666 (Jan 2, 2014)

KingSirloin said:


> A scribe saw is nothing like a scroll saw. A scribe saw is a tiny circular saw that spins in front of the main blade of a panel saw. A scroll saw is a tiny version in some ways to a band saw in operation and is for fine intricate work.
> Google scroll saw and scribe saw (blade).



Thanks for clearing that up  l
Btw your builds are freaking amazing KingSirloin really beautiful!
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## KingSirloin (Jan 3, 2014)

tahnia666 said:


> Thanks for clearing that up  l
> Btw your builds are freaking amazing KingSirloin really beautiful!
> Sent from my HTC Velocity 4G using Tapatalk



Thanks for the comments. Got some more pics to upload very soon of my latest build! Plus I'm considering doing the Tardis too.


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## tahnia666 (Jan 3, 2014)

KingSirloin said:


> Thanks for the comments. Got some more pics to upload very soon of my latest build! Plus I'm considering doing the Tardis too.



Cool can't wait to see them 

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