# New User



## Silbert (Jun 19, 2003)

Hi all, I'm a new user here. I was wondering if any of you could help me? I know this is not herp related, but I have Australian Leaf Insects at home, and for some reason they all seem to be dying  I am at my wits end, I have cleaned their enclosure, change their leaves every day and changed the container the leaves are in. Do you know what might be wrong.
Thanks in advance


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## Nicole (Jun 19, 2003)

I think David Lutz might be able to help you Silbert.
From memory he has a stick insect named Matilda...


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## cyber_crimes (Jun 19, 2003)

Welcome to the community Silbert!

*HOUSING*
In general the more common species of Stick-Insect can be kept together though if you are breeding more difficult species then it pays to use separate cages to create individual requirements. 

Most Sticks come from tropical or semi-tropical environments and are happiest between 750F and 800F, though the common Indian Stick-Insect (Carausius morosus) and some of its relatives are happy at normal home temperatures of between 600F and 750F. Heating is best achieved by maintaining a whole room at the desired temperature, if this is not possible an electric light bulb can be used over small cages. It is important to make sure the Stick-Insects can not reach the light bulb as they will burn themselves on it. A red bulb should be used during the hours of darkness as this disturbs the Sticks far less. 

Most Stick-Insects are long thin animals which hang down from their food plants to shed their skins. It is therefore most important that the cage has sufficient depth, as a general rule it should be three times as high as the adult length of the Stick-Insects to be kept in it. It is also useful to have it so designed that you can easily replace the food plant material whenever it is required taking into consideration that this will mostly be brambles (i.e. spiny Rubus sp) 

Not all sticks share a common need for humidity, some species such as Carausius morosus will be happy to live in a fairly open cage whereas others such as Epidares nolimetangere will require an almost if not totally enclosed cage with around 80% relative humidity. Regardless of this all Sticks need water and it is a good policy to thoroughly mist the inside of the cage including all the food plant material each evening before you go to bed or before lights out. Some Stick-Insects such as Haaniella sp need open water in a low bowl to drink, don't be to concerned if they leave their heads under water remember that insect breath through their thoracic and abdominal spiracles not through their mouths like us. 

_Note also that in some places tap water can harm some species so it doesn't hurt to use either rain water or to let the tap water stand for a day or two._

*FEEDING*
Almost all Stick-Insects eat the leaves of bramble/blackberry and its relatives of the genus Rubus and many such as the Indian or Laboratory Stick-Insect Carausius morosus, the Australian or Giant Spiny Stick-Insect Extatosoma tiaratum, the Thorn Legged Stick-Insect Eurycantha calcarata, the Small Spiny Stick-Insect Areaton assperrimus and the Jungle Nymph Heteropteryx dilatata will also enjoy plants like Oak Quercus sp and Hawthorn Crateagus monogyna. 

It is important to make sure that your sticks always have plenty of fresh food, and it is often wise to take from sites not to close to major road ways to avoid the poisoning effects of various pollutants, if this is unavoidable then the plant material should be washed before being offered to the Sticks. 

*HANDLING*
Great care should be taken in handling stick insects at all times, remember they are living creatures just like you. some species such as the Indian or Laboratory Stick-Insect Carausius morosus and the Australian or Giant Spiny Stick-Insect Extatosoma tiaratum are relatively sturdy and these should be used when allowing younger children or people who could be frightened to handle the Sticks. 

_Note that some species such as Pink Wings Sipyloidea sipylus tend to lose their legs very easily. 
Also it should be noted that some species such as the Australian or Giant Spiny Stick-Insect Extatosoma tiaratum, the Jungle Nymph Heteropteryx dilatata and particularly the Thorn Legged Stick-Insect Eurycantha calcarata can and will pinch (with their thorny limbs) and bite if not used to being handled, other species such as the American Walking Stick Anisomorpha bupestroides and to a lesser extent Pink Wings Sipyloidea sipylus have a defensive chemical spray which in the case of American Walking Stick Anisomorpha bupestroides can cause temporary blindness and considerable pain to an adult._

*BREEDING*
A number of species of Stick-Insect are parthenogenic (i.e. the females lay unfertilised eggs which hatch into females which will also lay unfertilised eggs etc.) such as Indian or Laboratory Stick-Insect while the majority of species go in for a more normal male-female system. 

All Stick-Insects lay eggs, some just drop them onto the ground, some sick them under tree bark or into crevices and some bury them in the ground. 

If you keep the burying species such as the Australian or Giant Spiny Stick-Insect, Thorn Legged Stick-Insect or Epidares nolimetangere you will need to ensure a container of damp peat, about 2 inches deep in the bottom of the cage once the females are adult. 

Stick-Insect eggs can take from between 2 months and a year to hatch depending on species, in general the larger species are the ones which take longest though not always. 

You can either not bother cleaning out the cage floor and let the sticks hatch as they want, in this case it is useful to keep some common Woodlice such as Porcellio scaber in the cage to help keep down the fungus. 

Or you can collect the eggs each time you clean the cage and keep them in separate containers until they hatch. In this case the eggs of the burying species will need to be gently reburied about 1 cm deep, and the rest will need to be kept on some absorbent material such as sand, all will need to be kept in a warm place and spraying with moisture occasionally will help, a careful/daily watch should be kept for moulds and attacked ova/eggs removed, cleaned and then kept in a separate container.


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## Alexahnder (Jun 19, 2003)

hello i have kept about 9 stick insects over the last few months. Currently i have seven. Adult males live for about 15 months and the females about 20 months. The ones sold through petshops at rediciously high prices are usually adults. I have found that they seem more hardy if they are in a warm humid environment. they are a tropical spcies. i have mine ontop of my snake cage with moist spagnam moss as a substrate. Mine stay at around 25 degrees.

Hope this may have helped

Alexahnder


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## africancichlidau (Jun 19, 2003)

Am I to take it that a Leaf Insect and a Stick Insect are the same thing??


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## cyber_crimes (Jun 19, 2003)

Nah they are different species but have the same requirements more or less.I guess it would be like taking advice for a coastal carpet when you own a murray darling.


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## Kirov_grrl (Jun 19, 2003)

Sorry, just wanted to check something....

*CC
*750F???? Isn't that like baking degrees? 75F is approx 24 degrees C.... where as 750 is more like 400 degrees C......


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## lutzd (Jun 19, 2003)

*Matilda*

Hi Silbert. Welcome to the site.

Sadly, Matilda has gone to that great gum tree in the sky.

Unfortunately, they only live about 18 months, so Matilda led a relatively long and healthy life. How old are yours?

I'm at a loss as to what to tell you re your loss. The main thing I was told when I first started with extatasoma tiaratum (Spiny leaf insect),http://www.aussiepythons.com/albums/lutzd/matilda.jpg which is what I assume you are talking about, is to ensure that once they start on a particular type of leaf, you should always feed them the same type. It must be a eucalyptus (gum) leaf. You should also mist them daily with a fine spray of water.

Where do you get your leaves from? When I first started, I used to search the neighbourhood for the right kind of leaves and pinch a few from a different location each time. However, It occurred to me that if the trees were sprayed by the council to get rid of pests, it could be harmful to my insects, to say the least. I always washed the leaves thoroughly before giving them to Matilda. I started collecting mine from national parks (could be dobbing myself in here! :? ) well away from the main road.

The leaves should be replaced every 3 days or so. 

Mature insects prefer old growth leaves, and babies should be fed new growth.

Obviously, watch where you spray for flies etc., in the house, as the fly spray could drift near their enclosure.

Apart from that, I have run out of ideas.

I hope you solve the problem. Let us know how you get on.

Good luck,
David


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## cyber_crimes (Jun 19, 2003)

Oops minus the last digit on those calculations.


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## Silbert (Jun 19, 2003)

Thanks for all the help. My only guess is that they got some poisening from the gum-leaves (I got them right next to the main road.) Never knew about the misting, so I will start doing that aswell. Thanks again for all the help, hope it works out.


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