# Cutting Perspex?



## Cypher69 (May 10, 2013)

Heya, I'm wondering if I can use a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to cut through 10 mm Perspex?
And at what should I set the jigsaw to?
If not, then any suggestions?
Cheers.


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## Cypher69 (May 10, 2013)

I just read another thread about using a Perspex blade...so my question still stands whether I can use a metal cutting blade instead?


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## BDkeeper (May 10, 2013)

Yeah I have used a metal cutting blade with a jigsaw and cut Perspex but its not that thick but I'm sure you can


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## Cypher69 (May 10, 2013)

Well it's 10mm thick...that's why I'm seeking advice before I attempt the cut. I've also got a wood cutting blade...so the main concern is what type of teeth on the blade would be better?


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## SurrealReptiles (May 10, 2013)

Take it to a plastic fabricator and give them $10 to cut it. Cheaper than ruining the piece and will be a lot more exact than anything you will do with a jigsaw.


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## Misnomer (May 11, 2013)

Finer the teeth the better. Either put adhesive pads on the foot of the jigsaw, or clamp a thin ply to the perspex before cutting to avoid scratching. Clamp two lengths of something straight(and smooth edged to avoid 'bumps'/jagging) to act as a guide for the jigsaw foot. Will need two cuts as you will likely get the cut reforming due to the perspex melting along the cut. Take the cutting slowly, don't force it.


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## ronhalling (May 11, 2013)

If it is new perspex use a str8 edge and score the perspex as deep as you can then just snap it at the score then use some 1000 grit or 1200 wet and dry to smooth the edge as it will be razor sharp  .....................................Ron


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## Misnomer (May 11, 2013)

ronhalling said:


> If it is new perspex use a str8 edge and score the perspex as deep as you can then just snap it at the score



Like scoring and snapping glass.....an expensive miss if it doesn't behave. 10mm perspex seems to have a mind of it's own.....or it just plain hates me


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## thomasssss (May 11, 2013)

metal cutting blade will be fine , i have used the same on many occasions and many different sizes of perspex , just go slowly with it to avoid the perspex heating up and melting back together at the cut , even if this does happen its not the end of the world it snaps easily after that and a pair of pliers will help to chip away and pieces stuck to the cut edge


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## Cypher69 (May 11, 2013)

Cheers for all the advice.
I'm using the perspex to divide land from water in a fishtank for my GTF's.
It won't matter much how scratched up the end product will be as one end will be disguised with soil & the other side with pebbles.
It's such a small project, I don't have the patience to hunt down a plastic fabricator & if all fails, I'll just get a glass piece cut out.
Thanks again.


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## wokka (May 11, 2013)

A cut ceramic tile may be easy to come by and do the job.


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## Stevo2 (May 11, 2013)

I use a circular saw with no issues.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## mudgudgeon (May 11, 2013)

Misnomer said:


> Like scoring and snapping glass.....an expensive miss if it doesn't behave. 10mm perspex seems to have a mind of it's own.....or it just plain hates me



score both sides, make sure both scores line up accurately


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## Cypher69 (May 11, 2013)

mudgudgeon said:


> score both sides, make sure both scores line up accurately



I honestly have my doubts about scoring 10mm thick perspex deep enough that it will snap.


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## Rogue5861 (May 11, 2013)

I used 6mm polycarb to divide my frog tank, used a jigsaw for the cuts.


Rick


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## Cypher69 (May 14, 2013)

Don't know what I was stressing about...the metal blade cut thru the 10mm perspex like it was butter!


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## Baldy (May 14, 2013)

I also use Poly Carb sheets 6mm. twice the cost but much stronger, Ive also had no issues with metal blades cutting it, Just set it up with brace underneath to support, use a straight edge and take it slow.


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## Luvbuz (May 18, 2013)

I cut 10mm perspex with my jigsaw and the finest metal blade I have in my shed at the time. If the bit of perspex doesn't the protective paper coating on it - lay a 2' strip of low tack masking tape down the cut line, re-mark the cut line and clamp a straight edge to butt up to the foot plate of the jigsaw. Make sure you have the surplus end supported or it will crack away about 100 - 150mm from the end of your cut and then you cry (I know - I didn't do that and paid the price!). Go slow and let the blade do the work. Blow away the swarf as you go so it doesn't melt back into the cut. Then sand it lightly to get rid of any sharp edges, peel off the protective paper and you're in business! Hopefully you've already got it done by now - I only just saw the date of the original post!


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