# few Questions regarding Backgrounds



## JungleGuy (Jul 16, 2011)

Hey i've been making a new enclosure for my jungle hatchy and had a few questions. does anyone have any ideas to fill large holes in my background? i've tried expanda foam but its proving difficult to shape and cut away in these spots. Secondly, is it possible to speed up the drying of grout easily without resulting in cracking or other deformities? and thirdly, is it best to apply sealant before or after painting and detailing the background? any input would be helpful.
Cheers Tim


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## J-A-X (Jul 17, 2011)

I use scrap bits of foam liquid nailed in place 
I'm not a fan of drying the render artificially, 3-4 days is the norm for the acrylic render, 

I seal last, I've found a tile sealer for use around pools that claims its a "natural finish" so it is non slip. I'm nearly ready to seal one of my projects so I'll report back how it goes as I haven't used this product before


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## 1woma (Jul 17, 2011)

Keep us updated on that sealer Jax

OP- i agree with Jax liquid nails and scrap foam mite be the way to go


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## geckolover07 (Jul 17, 2011)

for a sealent on my background/ basking spot, i mixed craft glue with water, put it in a spray botttle and sprayed it on that way it doesnt have that shine that sealers have...
I agree with Jax, foam and liquid nails would be the best way to fill the large holes, however, for smaller work i would use a grout mixture, pretty thick, and paste it on. Just my opinion.
Aaron


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## J-A-X (Jul 17, 2011)

The only downside to the pva and water 'sealer' is it doesn't cope well with cleaning and scrubbing, 
If your not convinced, throw some of the pva sealer on a tile, put some water drops in one spot, come back an hour later and see if you now have a soft spot on your sealer, now think how much urine gets sprayed around in a tank and consider the result. Pva should be fine for geckos and lizards, although having said that, I don't think it would cope well with claws either !

I'm off to the shed for an "ink coat" so I should be able to trial the new sealer next weekend. Woohoo


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## JungleGuy (Jul 17, 2011)

ok thanks heaps for that guys thats a huge help!! just realised i havent put vents in yet either oops lol keep us updated with ur project jax i may be asking for some help with brushing techniques too when i get to that stage lol 
Cheers Tim


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## J-A-X (Jul 17, 2011)

I learnt the hard way, now vents and heating are the first two things to be sorted. If I'm doing sliding glass that gets bought next. Then I work around the glass to make sure the tracks are right. Last time the glass mob cut the glass 2mm too wide. They claimed my tape measure must be 2mm out!! Needless to say I won't use them again. Thank goodness my brother in law has just relocated back to SA. he's a perfectionist like me so we should make a good team.


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## JungleGuy (Jul 17, 2011)

yeah i got all my heating sorted first just forgot the vent but that should be easy enough. i havent got glass yet but that should be fine im having trouble finding glass tracks tho


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## JungleGuy (Jul 21, 2011)

Heres some photos of the project so far tell me what you think hopefully ill start painting tomorrow if everything goes to plan. 
Cheers Tim
View attachment 210369
View attachment 210370
View attachment 210371


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## cadwallader (Jul 21, 2011)

picture arent showing, Everyone (including me) always forgets the vents!! LOL


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## JungleGuy (Jul 21, 2011)

hopefully this works


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## J-A-X (Jul 21, 2011)

Looks like the inside of my freezer. 
That's gonna look really good when it's painted.


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## JungleGuy (Jul 21, 2011)

haha yeah that wat i thought i guess he will be well insulated? lol


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## melluvssnakes (Jul 22, 2011)

How the heck did you get that kind of effect? Is that just one thick piece of foam and attacked with a heat gun? Progress pics people!


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## JungleGuy (Jul 22, 2011)

i got that kind of effect with insulating foam from a job, the pieces were 10 x 600x 2000 mm in size and i carved them down. it made sooo much mess!!! i painted it today but the colouring is real hard to see in the pics it all looks the same colour but when you look close it looks like real rock i like it anyway. ill upload more pics soon 
cheers tim

















any1 got any ideas to reduce the shine from the sealer??


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## J-A-X (Jul 22, 2011)

Fine steel wool - I found it under the sandpaper at buntings, it will take the shine off with scratching as long as you don't push too hard, and you'll still find it easy to clean.


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## JungleGuy (Jul 22, 2011)

easy done, thank you.


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## J-A-X (Jul 22, 2011)

You're welcome, its something I discovered while doing a polyeurethane coat on some timber, just a gentler form of sanding between coats. Fine grade sandpaper has been suggested before but I found it doesnt shape to well to rounded surfaces and leaves visible scratches


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## JungleGuy (Jul 22, 2011)

yeah i think steel wool sounds easier, ill see how i go


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## mad_at_arms (Jul 23, 2011)

I use Uni-Pro flexible sanding pads. I've got steel wool but I don't like it, I think because it reminds me of the cheap scourers Mum use to buy for washing up and the fine little splinters they provided.


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## JungleGuy (Jul 23, 2011)

how do you make sure you dont sand through your sealer? and will the shine get duller with age? its supposed to be low shine sealant but as you can see is still pretty shiney


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## mad_at_arms (Jul 23, 2011)

By doing it _gently._ If you think you've gone to far you can always reseal that area. You really only want to sand the high areas that are catching the light. Not sure about getting duller with age, but I imagine it would happen. Even though it is a controlled environment(i.e. not outside) we are still exposing the stuff to heat, light and in some cases moisture.


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## JungleGuy (Jul 23, 2011)

yeah ill give it a shot, fingers crossed


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