# Thinking about getting a Monitor - Questions...



## Tobe404 (Mar 18, 2014)

Hey everyone,

Was thinking about getting a Monitor and just wondering what's good for a beginner?

I've done a bit of research and know a basking spot (or two-three) of 50-70c is required. Also that they eat pretty much anything (well, besides greens).

Heard differing opinions about UV. Some say it is required. Some say it is not (more optional, like with Snakes).

Gather that certain types are more aggressive than others, but that it also could come down to the individual Monitor itself.

Also I'd like to keep the Monitor outside to give it plenty of space so perhaps I should start with one that's somewhat close to my area (Murray Bridge, SA)?
Or if I did keep a Monitor from another part of Australia what steps would i need to take to ensure it survives?

General enclosure set up along with escape proof ideas would be good too. Unfortunetly I haven't been the best when it comes to this aspect of enclosures in the past.

Thanks everyone.


----------



## Robo1 (Mar 19, 2014)

You've researched all the basics which is excellent.

Regarding UV, it's generally accepted that they don't need UV; however they must be fed the correct diet. UV allows then to produce vitamin D3 which is used to absorb calcium. If they are fed a whole prey diet, get this from their food. Not providing UV and feeding mince, chicken necks, etc will result in MBD.

Ackies are a good starting monitor, as are many of the smaller species. I've never kept mine outside but there are members on here who do. The basics are (hopefully others can provide more detail) provide somewhere which is always dry and depending on the temperatures a basking site/heated box.

Making things escape proof is just a matter of finding all the holes and blocking them up (simple right?). With small monitors, if their head fits through their body can, and usually does, follow.


----------



## whyme (Mar 19, 2014)

How much room do you have to work with? Do you want small or large monitors. Uv lights are useless in an outdoor cage/pit. Not needed inside. Do you want a cage or pit? Inside/outside? Biggest question is............. small or large monitor. That will decide everything.


----------



## critterguy (Mar 22, 2014)

Been looking into the same thing myself, got the impression from a reply and reading around that a 4ftx2ftx2ft enclosure would be the minimum for ackies, a normal dimension 4ft tank should be fine for Pygmy Mulga monitors/Gillens though which only reach about 40cm instead of the 60cm or so the ackies reach, so a similar length to blue tongues. 

Some of the others might keep them and have more info on the right size enclosure for them.

Thats a sp to consider over the ackies if you don't have much room like me but don't want the sp you go to be squished for space. 
If I did get some pygmeys I'd go a 5ft tank or make a enclosure of similar size to my blue tongues one but a bit larger, theirs is 71x71cmx about 1ft high, if I made one of similar size for a pygmy I'd add in about 20cm extra length and width and extra height for climbing sticks and hollow logs.


----------



## whyme (Mar 22, 2014)

In my opinion, I've found the Gillens I've kept love to climb. 4x4x2 was what I kept them in. Very active and awsome to watch. 1 male to 2 odd females was fine. Introducing another male always resulted in one male being wrecked. Do you know what your looking for?


----------



## Tobe404 (Mar 26, 2014)

To be honest I'd rather keep the Monitor outside so my only options (that I know of) that are around my area would be Heath Monitos or Lacies (Which I can't get because I'm only on a basic licence).
If I was to get a Monitor out of it's range and did keep it outside (pit or aivary) how would I go about keeping it's basking temps up?

Size doesn't really bother me as I'd be starting out with a hatchy anyway. By the time it's big enough to do any real damage hopefully I've got it tolerant of me/tamed down by then.
Room isn't really an issue if they are outside. Inside I'd probably only be able to keep smaller Monitors.

Thanks to all who replied.


----------



## Pilbarensis (Mar 27, 2014)

Could keep a gouldii outside in SA, they're fun.


----------



## butters (Mar 27, 2014)

Why would feeding chicken necks cause calcium deficiencies? Probably a higher bone to flesh ratio than even a whole prey animal.

If you are limited for space inside get a Gillens. Very cool little critters but to me they aren't really a step up to a Lacie or other large monitor. They are very different animals.

Otherwise if it must be outside stick to something local. Are there any local monitors you can keep on a basic in SA?


----------



## bigjoediver (Mar 27, 2014)

butters said:


> Why would feeding chicken necks cause calcium deficiencies? Probably a higher bone to flesh ratio than even a whole prey animal.
> 
> It not the calcium that's the problem. If the animal isn't getting enough UV it won't produce the vitamin D necessary to absorb it. The liver of whole prey feeds contains the vitamin D needed thus making UV lighting not needed indoors. If keeping outside it should be a problem.


----------



## Rogue5861 (Mar 27, 2014)

Rosenburgs, spencers or sandies could all do well here in SA. The two latter ones would probably need supplementary heating during the cooler months though.


Rick


----------



## Bushfire (Mar 27, 2014)

I used to be a no to uv for monitor although when I went to mv bulbs I totally changed my way of thinking. Yes it can be done without it, but especially so for beginners its a game of chance without uv that could lead to mbd. Going to a mv bulb activity levels at least doubled for me. Now I've left the mv bulbs behind and am extremely please with IMO a superior type the metal halides.

As for monitor choice, well that depends on what traits appeal to you more and your proposed space available. If you or after something of reasonable size and Outside you could keep in a pit sandies, or mertens (you will most likely heat these guys).

indoors will give you a few more choices, if something colourful is your desire than look at the ackie locales about, or if not fuzzed there is the duller coloured gilleni. Both gillens and ackies are similar in personity and ease of keeping.

if indoors my advice is to apart from the info you have researched is to keep the enclosure bright with lots of hides and avoid handling early to build trust.


----------



## butters (Mar 27, 2014)

Good point big joe. Forgot about the vitamin D part of the process.

On saying that my Gillens only have a heat lamp, no uv, only fed dusted invertebrates and no MDB. Same goes for many of my skinks, Pygopods and other reptiles. How much vitamin D is in insects? 
I have maintained numerous generations under this regime with no MDB.

Only things I supply supplemental UV to is my dragons.


----------



## ReptilianHybrid (Apr 8, 2014)

Im in Adelaide iv got three spencers that are doing really well, I prefer indoor enclosures especially if you want a pet you can handle. It will help get them used to humans. Also I got allot of advice on here not to handle as a hatchy but Iv handled 1 out of 3 since a hatchy and that is the only one that wont hide run or freak out from humans, the other two are tong feeding but never handled will even try and bite me if I want to pick them up. Iv also found the uv light makes them more active and have a better appetite. But if you really want something local look at a goulds monitor


----------

