# Fussy snake - braining pinkie rat, or dip in egg yolk?



## kawasakirider (Mar 31, 2011)

Hey everyone, it's been a few days since I put Nagini in her click clack covered with a pillow case so she can't see the outside world. I'm going to attempt to give her another feed tonight.

She seems fussy, so should I brain the rat, or dip it in yolk?

Should I just place the rat in there with her and cover everything back up, or should I try and get her attention by moving it around?

She's on aspen, so should I put the rat on top of a piece of paper to avoid getting bits of aspen stuck to it and prevent it from ending up down her throat?

Thanks in advance,

Trent


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## saximus (Mar 31, 2011)

Not sure about the aspen cause I don't use it but definitely try braining it and leaving it overnight first


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## kawasakirider (Mar 31, 2011)

OK, so just brain it, and leave it. Don't try and get her to attack it by pretending it's alive?


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## saximus (Mar 31, 2011)

Yeah try touching the top of her "nose" with it but if she doesn't grab it just leave it in there. Were they on rats or mice with the breeder? You could also try mice


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## kawasakirider (Mar 31, 2011)

They were on pinkie rats.


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## abnrmal91 (Mar 31, 2011)

Try tapping the snake just behind the head with the pinkie this will normally get them to try and attack the rat


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## kawasakirider (Mar 31, 2011)

It's just that I've tried this a fair amount of times and the more I do it, the more timid she gets. I think she's scared. So I'm not sure to approach it like that, or to just leave it there, brained. 

Anyone have any insight on the aspen?


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## pythonmum (Mar 31, 2011)

I keep my hatchies on paper towel, so no insights. I'd feed on a piece of paper or plastic - especially if you try braining or egg. It gets very sticky. Put in the plastic and unlatch the container a while before introducing the food item so she isn't upset by everything at once. I'm still sneaking around trying to get two fussy ones to start feeding and it's a major pain in the backside. Low lighting is important, too. Good luck!


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## kawasakirider (Mar 31, 2011)

I don't get what you mean by "put in the plastic and unlatch the container a while before introducing the food item". I was planning on putting the rat in straight away and doing the click clack back up and leaving her be. Thanks for the tip on the low light, I'll turn the light off when I do it


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## abnrmal91 (Mar 31, 2011)

Its always best trying to feed them in the late evening as its when they would be hunting. Once they are established you can feed them anytime of the day, but it definitely helps to feed in the evening to start with.


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## kawasakirider (Mar 31, 2011)

Now is ok then  I'm defrosting a pinkie as I type this.

I just brained the pinky and waved it infront of her face, she didn't seem keen so I placed it on a piece of paper infront of the hide and she took off straight into the hide, past the rat without a second look


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## smigga (Mar 31, 2011)

I had a fussy jungle as my first snake. What finally worked is she went into her hide as i was offering and i just put the mouse in there with her, checked 10 mins later and no mouse


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## TahneeMaree (Mar 31, 2011)

Be careful with that fear response. I've adopted a little snake a while ago that was 3+ years old and afraid of rodents to the point of being force fed its every meal. Taken around 12 months to get it from voluntarily taking quail onto rodents.

I didn't read your other thread but I recommend giving it a week or so break (given that it has enough condition) then trying a quail again.


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## beeman (Mar 31, 2011)

Why are you still pestering this snake!
You started another thred on this animal and it not feeding asking what to do!

It was clearly explained to you by a few that have quite a lot of experience
in breeding and getting jungles to feed what to do to achieve this and yet you have ignored this advice and kept harrasing this snake.

I suggest you go back and refresh your memory as to what you where told to do and follow this advise other wise you are putting this snakes very existance in jepardy!


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## TahneeMaree (Mar 31, 2011)

How often are you attempting to feed this snake?


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## KaotikJezta (Apr 1, 2011)

Honestly dude, you talk about idiots having children, since your earlier post about this snake not eating you've posted pictures of you 'playing' with them, you've stated your not willing to spend more money on them and now you are back asking why she wont eat. Do you actually listen to the advise given or do you just like the sound of your own fingers hitting the keyboard. I know I may sound harsh but your posts are frustrating to say the least.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

TahneeMaree said:


> How often are you attempting to feed this snake?



Once a week.



kaotikjezta said:


> Honestly dude, you talk about idiots having children, since your earlier post about this snake not eating you've posted pictures of you 'playing' with them, you've stated your not willing to spend more money on them and now you are back asking why she wont eat. Do you actually listen to the advise given or do you just like the sound of your own fingers hitting the keybo
> ard. I know I may sound harsh but your posts are frustrating to say the least.


 
Things are lost in translation through text. I've taken everything on board and she is in her own tub and she's been untouched for a few days. I haven't handled her for over a week.

I'm not posting here anymore. Thanks to the people who have tried to help me. To the others that think I am handling the snake every day and abusing it, well you're entitled to make up fantasies about me so you can be condescending and berate me, hope it makes you feel wise.

Also, the pictures are from when I first got her, the only recent ones are with the male, who is a good feeder and he's in the terrarium by himself. Yes the pics were posted since I was voicing my troubles here, but they weren't taken recently.


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## KaotikJezta (Apr 1, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> Once a week.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Ok fair enough but it doesn't look that way, and yes things do get lost in translation when texting so you can see how people trying to help get frustrated by it all.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

Well the only time she has been touched since last Saturday was the other day when I moved her into her new click clack. The other one wasn't suitable. The pics are from when I first got her.

"it doesn't look that way"

I understand that I make a lot of posts, but I am worried about her. Doesn't mean I am taking her out all the time.


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## saximus (Apr 1, 2011)

lol @ keyboard warriors. Oh how much less interesting this site would be without you. 
How did you go braining the pinky? I hear it's messy work


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

I may not have done it right then, I punctured the head with a Stanley knife and squeezed a little bit of fluid out, not enough for it to be messy though, just a drizzle. Is it meant to cover the rat or something?


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## saximus (Apr 1, 2011)

As long as some comes out it should be enough to get the smell going. I've never had to do it though so I just pictured it being messier haha


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

Oh ok no dramas lol. I'll let you guys know how it went in the morning. It's sitting just inside the entrance to her hide so she can't ignore it really lol.

Just had a peak under the pillow case... It's still there


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## TahneeMaree (Apr 1, 2011)

For a hatcheie, moving to a new home is stressfull enough. If you've moved her to a new click clack leave her for about a week. Don't stress too much, my coastal didn't eat for almost a month and a half after i brought her home.


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## beeman (Apr 1, 2011)

saximus said:


> lol @ keyboard warriors. Oh how much less interesting this site would be without you.
> How did you go braining the pinky? I hear it's messy work


 
Some of us "key board worriors"as you put have actually dealt with these sorts of troublesome snakes, This is why we commented on the very first thred made about this little snake and offered very sound advise, To no avail !


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## Miss_Stripey (Apr 1, 2011)

ugh i had a little Mr Fussy once He refused to swap Mice for Rats! He did not eat for over 2 months but hes still fine and alive. Took a lot of patience and lots of chewed fingernails!!!! In the end for me was first leave it alone stop handling. Then waited until about 1 am in the morning when the snake naturally came out for a wonder then i put it in a feeding container with the rat and left it. Had to do this 3 times and on go 3 the rat was gone. If it was after 1am and i woke up early i dont think it had any harm leaving the rat with it for a few hours (yes it was dead) and i just disposed of it and waited till the snake came back out after midnight a few days later. I think waiting for the snake to come out on its own accord helped here. I tried braining with no help and i tried Mouse brain rubbed on Rat to.

I made sure it ate in the click clack at least 5 times and now it eats out of my hand off the back of a chair everytime and hes growing again  But jeez i was so worried for ages i tried everything and was scared id have to get an expert in to go down the force feeding track.

This was a 6 month old bredli not a hatchling and he was already a gun feeder on Mice he just didnt like rats. I recon patience and a less hands on approach is sometimes good. Thats just my case im sure everyones is different. I hope she eats soon i know how stressfull it is!!!


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## Seru1 (Apr 1, 2011)

Does she have a hide? If not I'd surely add one. A little rodent dance never hurts. Good luck!


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## pythons73 (Apr 1, 2011)

A few important things with Hatchies is they need to be left alone until there feeding on a regurlar basis.STRESS is the main one,considering its a new snake Leave ALONE for a week or two with little to none disturbance,change water etc but thats it.After that time try a nice warm mouse-rat after dark.If that fails try again in a week.Remember NO HANDLING..DONT STRESS it out anymore then it is already.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

OK I'll keep doing this. If it continues to fail, is it possible to get a live pinky?


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## saximus (Apr 1, 2011)

There are many more options to try before trying live feeding


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

Well the rat wasn't taken, so I went to take it out (because I was told it can't be in there for more than 24 hours) and she suddenly became interested when I picked it up, so I held it still, she got into the S shape and decided she'd bite me twice, I dunno if it was bad aim or not, but she wasn't keen after that for me or the rat.

This is the most frustrating experience I've had for a long time.


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## abnrmal91 (Apr 1, 2011)

I wouldn't leave them in for more than 8hrs max they start to degrade really quickly. If it was the eat it after that long you would risk making it sick.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

OK well I'm glad she didn't eat it then... I just wish she'd eat SOMETHING.


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## abnrmal91 (Apr 1, 2011)

I posted this the other day in another thread but, you can try these:

Get a little plastic Chinese food container. Put the snake in that with the fuzzy and put the lid on put it back in the enclosure. They will sometimes eat it as it's the only thing in the container. Have you tried braining the fuzzy (not live) that works sometimes as it has more of a scent. You can also wash the fuzzy to reduce the scent it also works for some reason. You can try scenting with chicken feathers or some fish. Make sure the fuzzy is about 38C. Try feeding at night.

Hope these help. 

The biggest thing is to try and limit the stress on the snake.


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## reptishack101 (Apr 1, 2011)

try both i use the egg all i do is scramble the egg and put it in the microwave for about 10-15 mins then dunk the rat /mouse in the egg the feed it to the snake with long tweezers/forceps just wiggle the rat in front of it for about 20-40 seconds if it dosent eat it leave it on a small tray in a click clack with just a flat piece of news paper and the snake if it dosent eat in about 30 min im out of options you could also you both at the same time dunk in egg and brain it


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

abnrmal91 said:


> I posted this the other day in another thread but, you can try these:
> 
> Get a little plastic Chinese food container. Put the snake in that with the fuzzy and put the lid on put it back in the enclosure. They will sometimes eat it as it's the only thing in the container. Have you tried braining the fuzzy (not live) that works sometimes as it has more of a scent. You can also wash the fuzzy to reduce the scent it also works for some reason. You can try scenting with chicken feathers or some fish. Make sure the fuzzy is about 38C. Try feeding at night.
> 
> ...


 
Done all of this mate, thanks for the help. Not working though ....


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## Jungle_Freak (Apr 1, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> Done all of this mate, thanks for the help. Not working though ....



Nothing is working hey ?
I wonder why ?


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

Well you tell me... I don't touch her, she's in a small, warm and dark spot and I offer her food on a weekly basis. I have followed the advice.


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## Jungle_Freak (Apr 1, 2011)

I gave you the correct advice before and you chose to ignor it ?
Go back and read my posts.
.


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## Spot_the_mac (Apr 1, 2011)

reptishack101 said:


> try both i use the egg all i do is scramble the egg and put it in the microwave for about 10-15 mins then dunk the rat /mouse in the egg the feed it to the snake with long tweezers/forceps just wiggle the rat in front of it for about 20-40 seconds if it dosent eat it leave it on a small tray in a click clack with just a flat piece of news paper and the snake if it dosent eat in about 30 min im out of options you could also you both at the same time dunk in egg and brain it


 
man that egg would be hot after 15 mins in the micro wave ha ha


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## abnrmal91 (Apr 1, 2011)

Spot_the_mac said:


> man that egg would be hot after 15 mins in the micro wave ha ha


 
Yer I think it would have exploded at about the fifth minute, so you would be trying to scrap it out of the microwave


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

> So just leave the jungle alone in the click clack, dont try to feed it for 5 days, dont touch the jungle.
> When the time comes to feed it just place food as mentioned and leave in quiet dark place at night .
> Then make sure it has privacy.
> check to see if food is gone next morning.
> ...



Done. I guess I will just repeat.


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## Jungle_Freak (Apr 1, 2011)

Your biggest mistake is you have kept on trying to get it too feed ?
But your only stressing it out more.
It needs a break from stress 
The main thing is dont even look at the jungle 
dont try to feed it for 5 days atleast or a week is better ,, leave jungle totally alone,
then at dusk , just place a food item in the entrance to its hide, then close click clack and check it in the morning
its important that the jungle gets no stress at all for 5 days or more , 
then offer food 
check the next morning 
it will work


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

But mate, I have been doing that! The smallest interval time for me trying to feed her is 5 days, which was last night. I have her in a secluded click clack, she's covered up and I haven't seen her. I lift the pillow case to make sure she is getting air once a day for a maximum of 5 seconds. I have honestly taken your advice on board.

There is ONE part of your advice that I have deviated from, and it's not because I chose too... The hide is in the warm part, because it's large and I can't fit it anywhere else if the water is in the cool end. You think I'm taking everyone's advice with a grain of salt, but I'm honestly not.


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## abnrmal91 (Apr 1, 2011)

It needs a hide at the cool end as well. If it can only hide at the hot end it will become to hot. If it moves to the cold end it then can't hide that will cause it to become stressed. Just make a hide out of a small cardboard box. You don't need to spend money.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

It has a toilet roll hide at the cool end, is that good enough? The cool end also has a branch, that's where it usually goes when it's in the cool end.


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## Jungle_Freak (Apr 1, 2011)

The jungle needs a dark hide to feel secure and safe,toilet roll is too open not dark enough 
hides are easy to find ,try and use a small cardboard box .
Fussy nervous jungles need special requirements .


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

Jungle_Freak said:


> The jungle needs a dark hide to feel secure and safe,toilet roll is too open not dark enough
> hides are easy to find ,try and use a small cardboard box .
> Fussy nervous jungles need special requirements .


 
Well the easiest way I could do it right now, would be to move the water bowl halfway down (in the middle) and put the proper hide in the cool end. I don't have enough room with the water bowl to put another decent sized (bigger than toilet roll) hide in there at the moment. Plus, if I do that, I have to pick her up and rearrange everything.

What do you suggest I do, mate? Here is a pic of the current set up.







The heat mat is a reptile one 5 watt heat mat, it's down the empty end.


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## akuji (Apr 1, 2011)

I have 2 jungles Tyson & Cleo that are chalk & cheese. Tyson was (is) a pain in the **** to get feeding. When he was a hatchie he regularly go 14-21 days between feeds for the first six months I had him, it took all the advice I received from everyone on APS to get him feeding regularly ( Habitat, handling,stress levels,braining etc) I found that heating the mouse up worked the best once I had everything else in check, and a whole new level of patience I thought I would never have. So Good luck mate and just keep following these guys advice, I would consider trying a hopper mouse as Tyson enjoyed those alot, I have just got Tyson over to rats now thats a bigger challenge..

Billy


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

What is a hopper mouse, mate? I put the pinky in water (inside a plastic bag) to defrost and heat it up, but it won't hold its heat long at all.

On a side note, can't believe how many people are from near Ipswich on this forum, lol.


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## Jungle_Freak (Apr 1, 2011)

use a smaller water container in the middle ,
move hide down cool end 
then no touching for a week, then offer food at entrance to hide, then cover cage up so its private overnight 
check the next morning,


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

OK. Is it OK to do this tonight, since I've had contact with her today? I'll do it now... Just have to find a smaller water container.

I could cut the bottom of a 600mL water bottle, and melt the edges so it won't cut the snake. This should be OK, right?


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## akuji (Apr 1, 2011)

just a size of mouse mate, I always put mine in tepid water to initially defrost and once it is defrosted I boiled the jug and poured it over the mouse (if you overheat the mouse prepare for an explosion) I would then put it on paper towel and feed Tyson straight away and 95 % of the time I had success. Where in Ipswich are you? Here are my 2 jungles now


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## Jungle_Freak (Apr 1, 2011)

Just do it and then leave her alone,


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

akuji said:


> just a size of mouse mate, I always put mine in tepid water to initially defrost and once it is defrosted I boiled the jug and poured it over the mouse (if you overheat the mouse prepare for an explosion) I would then put it on paper towel and feed Tyson straight away and 95 % of the time I had success. Where in Ipswich are you


 
Just up the road from Riverlink. I moved here to go to uni (gatton).

Jungle_Freak, I'll do this. Thanks for your advice, I have honestly done what I thought was the right thing, leaving her a long time, and putting her in the click clack....


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## akuji (Apr 1, 2011)

nice little part of Ipswich I have an uncle around the corner, in all honestly 1 week is not a long time for a snake not to be handled.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

Yeah, it's nice and quiet here, no idiots ruckusing the place like the CBD.

I am going to cut the bottom out of a 600mL drink bottle, but this isn't very big... Any suggestions of a small enough container that I could make from something around the house that won't evaporate quickly? I don't want to be opening the click clack, and I think the bottom of the container would be too small to hold enough water for over a week when considering evaporation.


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## pythonmum (Apr 1, 2011)

Small souffle dishes hold enough water for a week for my Darwins, they don't tip over and they don't take up so much room in the click clack. Small cardboard boxes offer a much closer and more secure-feeling hide than the lovely fake rock one. Try larger panadol boxes or similar. They are small and the snakes like a tight fit. It doesn't have to look pretty to you - just has to feel secure to the snake. I have also tried shutting a non-feeding hatchling into a hide box with a thawed rodent just to offer extra encouragement, but only for a couple of hours. Didn't work for me, but I've got a couple of stubborn non-feeders. The great thing about using boxes as hides is that I can pick them up in the boxes for necessary cleanings, making any disturbance to the hatchling as minimal as possible.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 1, 2011)

Well I have a panadiene box... I have just used the bottom of the water bottle for a bowl (I just moved out of home to start uni, I don't have souffle dishes, lol), and I moved the hide to the end. She stayed on her stick until the hide was up the cool end, and then she shot straight into it. I don't really want to disturb her AGAIN to use a box, but if it's better for her, should I do it?


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## pythons73 (Apr 2, 2011)

Just remember snakes can and do go months without a feed,DONT freak if it hasnt eaten for a few weeks.I had a 12month Chondro that was forced fed by the breeder,however it ate the 1st time i offered it a feed.From that point it ate everytime,except while in shed.Hatchies need warmth-need to feel secure-stress free,DONT offer food every night,try one night and if that fails,wait for the following week,then try again.No disburbing in that time.Ive got a little stripe hypo coastal thats not eaten for me,but the Jungle hatchies are eaten everytime.Ive had a few non-feeders in my time and all but one has survived and started eating without anymore dramas..


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## kawasakirider (Apr 2, 2011)

Why did the one that didn't make it die, mate? I have been leaving her between feeding times. I'll wait until next Friday or Saturday.


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## Miss_Stripey (Apr 2, 2011)

i think your doing the right thing taking all the advice well hope all goes well for you in another 5 days. But remember they can go a LONG time without food and it may be 10 or 15 days before sucess. Just dont pull all your hair out in the mean time. keep us posted


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## Red-Ink (Apr 2, 2011)

Just on a personal experience mate.... after relocation it took me 3 weeks to get my jungle to start feeding again. Keep doing what jungle_freak has advised you. Everytime you offer her a feed and she get's stressed out it's like hitting the reset button, patience and perseverance.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 3, 2011)

Yeah everyone, will do. The only thing I'm worried about right now is the small water bowl that's in her click clack. I doubt it will last a week and I don't wan to keep opening it up to refill it every few days. I might try the bottom of a 1.25 litter pump bottle when the first one has dried up, that way I am only going in there when I have to.

Thanks everyone, I'll keep you all posted. Gunna try her again next Saturday.


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## TahneeMaree (Apr 7, 2011)

She should be fine to go a few days on a dry bowl. For minimum impact wait till she's in the hide and do the water with minimum movement of the click clack.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 8, 2011)

I've been quickly checking every day by lifting the shirt off the click clack. The water level seems good. Can't see too well but it looks dirty, dunno how... It was fresh when I put it in and there's nothing filthy in the click clack. Apart from that she's been untouched since Saturday. So Sunday morning 1 am I'm gunna try to give her another pinky.

Do you guys suggest me waving it around and trying to get her to eat it on Saturday night or just popping it in the click clack and checking in the morning? I am hoping she eats this time. If not I'll be beyond frustrated/devo'd.


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## slide (Apr 8, 2011)

Waving it around will only cause more stress, your python will associate the stress with the smell of the food and guess what... it wont want to come near it let alone eat it, just my opinion though... I'm no snake.

My fussy jungle tells me when she wants to eat, not the other way around! The only time she will accept food is when she is hanging down in an S-shape ready to ambush. I use this as my key to thaw out a rat, if I try and feed any other time I am just wasting rats. Sometimes she will go 2-3 weeks without food then she will assume the ambush position, I offer food below her head and she always *slams it* and eats it, (maybe I feed a second rat while she is in the mood, it depends on the size of the rats), then I wait (sometimes weeks) till she shows the same behaviour then I know she is ready for another feed and I defrost another. 
Remember that snakes are made to go for long periods of time without food, they can handle it so try not to stress that your snake is going to starve and let it chill out so it can get hungry on its own accord. 

Did you ever have anything that your parents would try and force you to eat because they put it on your plate? And you didnt want to eat it... then they stopped trying to force you to eat it and years later you tried it and actually liked it because it was on your terms??? Same thing is happening here. 

Be patient...like a snake is

your snake may have peed in the water if it is discoloured, sometimes they think its funny to do that :lol:


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## kawasakirider (Apr 8, 2011)

Lol, I thought snakes had a cloaca, so when they went to the toilet a mixture of both comes out like birds? The reason I want her to eat is because I want to hold her. I know it's stupid, but that's why I'm frustrated right now. I just got this thing and I can't even look at it.


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## Jungle_Freak (Apr 8, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> I've been quickly checking every day by lifting the shirt off the click clack. The water level seems good. Can't see too well but it looks dirty, dunno how... It was fresh when I put it in and there's nothing filthy in the click clack. Apart from that she's been untouched since Saturday. So Sunday morning 1 am I'm gunna try to give her another pinky.
> 
> Do you guys suggest me waving it around and trying to get her to eat it on Saturday night or just popping it in the click clack and checking in the morning? I am hoping she eats this time. If not I'll be beyond frustrated/devo'd.


if you see the water is dirty then of course replace with fresh clean water,
also when you offer food just place is in front of the hide entrance a hour before dust, then leave over night.
waving food arround will sterss a very fussy eater,
so just place head end of fuzzy mouse at entrance, then check next morning.

Once she has eaten like this, all you need to do is put the food item at entrance to hide ,
they will strike and pull the food item back into the hide to eat in the "dark" privacy of the hide.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 8, 2011)

Ok but whenever I see her (which isn't often because she's in the cool end and the water is in the middle and I only pull the shirt far enough back to see the water) she's on the perch. I have aspen in the click clakc, is it ok to put the rat on the aspen or if she ingests some of it could it be bad? I can't see how a tiny bit would hurt, surely they eat bits of crap stuck to prey items in the wild.


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## Jungle_Freak (Apr 8, 2011)

Its ok to replace water , just dont touch her .

What was she feeding on before you got her ? then offer that food item to her. trying to change her food onto something she is not used too is not a smart move untill she is settled.
Once she has settled in eating a few times for you then you can try to change her to another food item if you need to.
I myself never use aspen for hatchies , but as far as i know its ok.
i only use paper towel or news paper.
For the reason they might injest the substrate etc So i dont risk it..


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## kawasakirider (Apr 8, 2011)

Yeah I understand the newspaper thing. It's just that a bag of aspen came with an exo terra I bought and I don't buy newspapers, lol. I'll change the water in a little while.

I am FAIRLY sure she was on pinky rats, because tue breeder gave us a bag of them and they are the same size as the pinkies I have now that are rats. The mice are noticeably smaller. Can pinky mice get as big as pinky rats? Also, the male eats the rats without a drama, so I guess that's what they were on.


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## Renenet (Apr 8, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> Well I have a panadiene box... I have just used the bottom of the water bottle for a bowl (I just moved out of home to start uni, I don't have souffle dishes, lol)


 
How are the op shops in Ipswich? I grabbed a great little ceramic dish from my local op shop for a dollar. You can sort of see it in some of the pictures I have here.

Good luck getting your snake to feed.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 8, 2011)

I dunno what they are like, I thought op shops were just for clothes? Thanks for the well wishes, I'll check your pics out 

I went to top up the water and I found it wasn't dirty, it just looked that way through the glare of the click clack. She was on the perch, but her head was down, a little stretched out and resting on top of the hide. Is this downward hunting? I opened it up and she retracted her head, didn't try to bite or anything, topped up the water and shut everything back up.

Is this a good sign she is getting hungry?


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## Renenet (Apr 8, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> I dunno what they are like, I thought op shops were just for clothes? Thanks for the well wishes, I'll check your pics out



Op shops have all kinds of things. As well as clothes I get household goods there all the time. I often find things that are brand new and still in their original packaging for much less than in the store.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 10, 2011)

She won't ****ing eat. I am so over this snake.


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## Ramsayi (Apr 10, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> She won't ****ing eat. I am so over this snake.


 
Have you considered that it is something that you are doing wrong and not the snakes fault?


I haven't read most of the replies but the ones I have don't mention temps.You mention that you are using a 5W heat mat which to me sounds about as useful as a pocket in a singlet.
What are the temps? In particular during the early hours of the morning 6-7am?


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## kawasakirider (Apr 10, 2011)

I have told everyone here that I cant monitor temps because the equipment I have is in the terrarium. I have followed all the advice/


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## Smithers (Apr 10, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> She won't ****ing eat. I am so over this snake.


 
Not sure if it's just me but the above statement tells me maybe your up to par on looking after reptiles.



kawasakirider said:


> I have told everyone here that I cant monitor temps because the equipment I have is in the terrarium. I have followed all the advice/



You seriously need to know the temps of what your reps are living in to successfully raise them. Pretty sure 100% of members will agree.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 10, 2011)

Smithers said:


> Not sure if it's just me but the above statement tells me maybe your up to par on looking after reptiles.
> 
> 
> 
> You seriously need to know the temps of what your reps are living in to successfully raise them. Pretty sure 100% of members will agree.



I think you're trying to say "not up to par" funny when idiots leave out key words, rendering their point mute. It seems to me that you're misreading my comments. I am frustrated and I took it out on here, big deal mate. I am doing everything in my power to follow advice given and I have followed it precisely. The click clack set up has been known since I made the damn thing.

I have said that I only have enough equipment to monitor the terrarium. Members have told me to shove her in a click clack with a heat mat and do a "dry run" or whatever to make sure sure she wouldn't over heat.


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## sara_sabian (Apr 10, 2011)

I know your frustrated but it's not necessary or helpful to lash out at the other members. Keeping snakes can be frustrating at times, try getting fussy ones to take their first feed. It's not easy sometimes. Getting mad at the snake wont help either, they aren't emotional animals but they will pick up on your attitude and you're not likely to have any success in that sate of mind.

I would suggest trying mice and day old quail. Also, with temps dropping because of the season I'm wondering if a 5watt heat matt is adequate.

Is there maybe someone on here that could drop by your place to help you out, would you be okay with that? it sounds like you're near giving up on this snake and I'm sure no one wants that.


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## akuji (Apr 10, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> I think you're trying to say "not up to par" funny when idiots leave out key words, rendering their point mute. It seems to me that you're misreading my comments. I am frustrated and I took it out on here, big deal mate. I am doing everything in my power to follow advice given and I have followed it precisely. The click clack set up has been known since I made the damn thing.
> 
> I have said that I only have enough equipment to monitor the terrarium. Members have told me to shove her in a click clack with a heat mat and do a "dry run" or whatever to make sure sure she wouldn't over heat.


 

Mate if it is not working perhaps call the breeder to take it back for a while to get it feeding?


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## kawasakirider (Apr 10, 2011)

sara_sabian said:


> I know your frustrated but it's not necessary or helpful to lash out at the other members. Keeping snakes can be frustrating at times, try getting fussy ones to take their first feed. It's not easy sometimes. Getting mad at the snake wont help either, they aren't emotional animals but they will pick up on your attitude and you're not likely to have any success in that sate of mind.
> 
> I would suggest trying mice and day old quail. Also, with temps dropping because of the season I'm wondering if a 5watt heat matt is adequate.
> 
> Is there maybe someone on here that could drop by your place to help you out, would you be okay with that? it sounds like you're near giving up on this snake and I'm sure no one wants that.



You're right. I just felt like it was a personal shot with him saying I'm not fit to look after them, when I am doing everything I can, and I've spent lots of money to do it right! This might sound like part and parcel of owning a snake (which it is) but I think it shows that I am in it for the long haul. I honestly feel very attached to her, she is a GREAT snake. She doesn't even try to bite me. I see you're in Gatton... Do you keep many herps? I go to uni there, perhaps if I paid you, you could look after her and get her to have a feed? I know she has had some feeds, due to her size. She just won't eat with me. The male is 100% fine, that's why I don't understand what I'm doing wrong with her.

Akuji, YGPM mate.


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## pythons73 (Apr 11, 2011)

I cant see a 5watt heatmat warming the tub enough,Temperature is one main priority of hatchies feeding.Once the temperature is good 32cwarm end 26c cool end and left alone for a week or so with little to none disturbance.After a week get a mouse and make sure its nice and warm and offer to snake after dark,make no noise and little movement..


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## kawasakirider (Apr 11, 2011)

Will do mate, cheers.


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## Ramsayi (Apr 11, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> I have told everyone here that I cant monitor temps because the equipment I have is in the terrarium. I have followed all the advice/


 
Without knowing what the temps are you will never get on top of the problem.No amount of braining,dipping in egg yolk or any other method of trying to get the animal to feed will work.You MUST know what the temps are doing before going any further.Go and get another thermometer and take some readings.Correct temps are the very first thing that needs to be established before anything else.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 11, 2011)

Well I'll be flamed hard for this...

I put her back in the terrarium. She kept trying to get in there, so I just let her. I think the 5W heat mat is too cold. Anyway, after a day in the terrarium I tried to get her to eat a fuzzy rat. She was VERY interested in it for over an hour and even struck at it once or twice off the tongs I made. I left it in there and it was still there this morning, so I gave it to the male (who had two pinkies on saturday, what a guts!), so atleast I have one fatso.

I'm having problems in regards to the snake situation that I don't want to go into on here, so I'm fairly frustrated with the whole situation/


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## beeman (Apr 11, 2011)

Simple solution as you cant seem to cope with what needs to be done is sell the snakes!


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## kawasakirider (Apr 11, 2011)

Thanks beeman and jungle freak, you guys are champions, your level of understanding and compassion astounds me, it's nice to know you two understand that I have taken everything on board, and basically emptied my bank account to make it happen. [this was drenched in sarcasm]

Doesn't it seem strange that the male will eat like a horse, yet the female wont? Perhaps it's not a husbandry issue, it's the snake? 

I have followed the advice given. I was told to do try runs and monitor temps and they never got too hot. The weather has started to cool down, so it's probably not warm enough in the click clack, hence me putting her in the terrarium.


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## saximus (Apr 11, 2011)

Dude I think you need to contact the breeder and get him/her to explain to you in person what you need to be doing. 



> She was VERY interested in it for over an hour and even struck at it once or twice off the tongs I made.


That doesn't sound "interested" behaviour that sounds like fear to me. She struck at it because I'm assuming you were waving it in her face and you scared her. Then when you left it in there was was checking out this new thing that was scaring her and was now sitting still in her enclosure. She was never interested in eating it even if it seemed that way.
I've seen a few people ask/suggest this but I can't remember the answer. Have you contacted the breeder and asked what she was feeding on when you got them?


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## Smithers (Apr 11, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> Well I'll be flamed hard for this...
> 
> I put her back in the terrarium. She kept trying to get in there, so I just let her. I think the 5W heat mat is too cold. Anyway, after a day in the terrarium I tried to get her to eat a fuzzy rat. She was VERY interested in it for over an hour and even struck at it once or twice off the tongs I made. I left it in there and it was still there this morning, so I gave it to the male (who had two pinkies on saturday, what a guts!), so atleast I have one fatso.
> 
> I'm having problems in regards to the snake situation that I don't want to go into on here, so I'm fairly frustrated with the whole situation/



It's good you know when your gunna get flamed cause here it comes,.....you've been told temps temps temps for days and I spoke with you yesterday and you asked my advice and you went and tried to feed her again. All you needed was another thermometer, I give up. Good luck on anyone answering your future questions as a result Trent.


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## saximus (Apr 11, 2011)

It's a combination of the snake AND the husbandry. She sounds like a fussy eater but almost all fussy eaters can become good eaters with the right husbandry. Not trying to have a go at you it's just that this is what the others have been trying to say


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## kawasakirider (Apr 11, 2011)

No mate, I moved it around and she tried to get it off the tongs and I left it and her alone. I could see her through the glass investigating it for over an hour.

The breeder is a difficult person. I have tried to get advice and my movement advice papers for over three weeks, but the breeder keeps changing plans at the last minute because for whatever reason, they have something to hide and she's avoiding me. She was as KEEN as mustard to get me to her house when I had the money for the snakes and the enclosure. She even offered to swap snakes if the feeding problem persisted, and then when I went to take her up on it, she said the jungles "escaped in her garage" only to put a thread up on this very site selling the same jungle hatchlings a few days later!

I drove all the way to Brisbane to head out to her location (half hour out) and I told her I was leaving brisbane and she said not to come, we had arranged to meet less than two hours before I rang her.

I have been on the phone to her EVERY day trying to get my paperwork and she won't come up with it. I haven't outed her yet because I want to fix it amicably, but I am getting so SICK and tired of it.

The breeder told me they like to be together and I shouldn't seperate them, which is completely wrong according to you guys (so I followed your advice), so if I COULD ever get a hold of her, I doubt it would do much good.

I am so over this whole situation, I've been stung.



Smithers said:


> It's good you know when your gunna get flamed cause here it comes,.....you've been told temps temps temps for days and I spoke with you yesterday and you asked my advice and you went and tried to feed her again. All you needed was another thermometer, I give up. Good luck on anyone answering your future questions as a result Trent.


 
Mate, the altenator in my car packed up yesterday. I am a uni student with no job because I have just moved here. I spent the last of the cash I had getting a cab to the wreckers and fixing my altenator, I don't have the cash for a thermometer. I monitored temps with the probe when I first did a dry run, I have said this, the temps were monitored!


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## Ships (Apr 11, 2011)

Mate some snakes are just impossible, others will fast for months and then all of a sudden switch on, sounds like your doing most things right you just have a really stubborn bugger. There has been some great advice given and most snakes would be eating following the advice given, but the rare one, which you may have still wont. One more thing to try dont know if its been mentioned or not, slice a frozen pinkie in half length wise, let it thaw and place both halves just inside his hide. It ends up messy but the smells can turn them on. Its a long shot but has anyone mentioned scenting with chicken, pinkie and snake in crumpled brown paper lunch bag and finally I'm sure its been mentioned but most of my fussy eaters will take a brained pinkie with feather attached.

Cheers


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## kawasakirider (Apr 11, 2011)

Ships said:


> Mate some snakes are just impossible, others will fast for months and then all of a sudden switch on, sounds like your doing most things right you just have a really stubborn bugger. There has been some great advice given and most snakes would be eating following the advice given, but the rare one, which you may have still wont. One more thing to try dont know if its been mentioned or not, slice a frozen pinkie in half length wise, let it thaw and place both halves just inside his hide. It ends up messy but the smells can turn them on. Its a long shot but has anyone mentioned scenting with chicken, pinkie and snake in crumpled brown paper lunch bag and finally I'm sure its been mentioned but most of my fussy eaters will take a brained pinkie with feather attached.
> 
> Cheers


 
LOL a feather attached? The advice here IS great, but the temps have dropped recently and the heat mat I bought isn't up to par. I had no other choice. People like to believe that I haven't followed their advice, but I honestly have. If I was doing something so wrong, I don't see how the male could be thriving. The female is just very difficult. She has bitten and hung on once, and then decided within ten seconds she didn't want it.


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## Ozzie Python (Apr 11, 2011)

i haven't read everything in this thread but agree with what advice has been given.

sorry if you have already answered it, but how often are you trying to feed the snake? if it rejects a feed, leave it alone, keep her warm (as mentioned) and try it a week later. trying every few days is only going to stress the snake.

like you said the 5w heat mat probably wasn't getting warm enough, however a smaller tub with the correct temps is going to be your best bet to get this animal feeding. 

good luck with it.

to comment on your above post regarding ships advice- actually the feather is good advice, i have had many fussy feeders start with a chicken/quail feather stuck to it. most snakes find it hard to resist eating a bird.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 11, 2011)

I have been waiting a week, but I bought fuzzy mice yesterday and I was walking home from the pet shop (my car is out of action) and one of the fuzzies had started to defrost (I get them packaged individually, so I don't have to snap them up when they are frozen) and I decided I'd warm it up and atleast try, rather than throw it away.

I'll have to buy another heat mat...


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## Smithers (Apr 11, 2011)

...


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## Ramsayi (Apr 11, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> I'll have to buy another heat mat...


Forget trying to feed it,forget a heat mat just for now.Go and buy a THERMOMETER and actually measure the temps the animal is exposed to.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 11, 2011)

Ramsayi said:


> Forget trying to feed it,forget a heat mat just for now.Go and buy a THERMOMETER and actually measure the temps the animal is exposed to.


 
Will do, I'll just cut a hole in my floor pan and flintstone it down to the local store, then I'll threaten them with a snake bite if they don't give the thermometer over  In all seriousness, I will get a THERMOMETER. 

Smithers, what's with the dots?


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## Smithers (Apr 11, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> Will do, I'll just cut a hole in my floor pan and flintstone it down to the local store, then I'll threaten them with a snake bite if they don't give the thermometer over  In all seriousness, I will get a THERMOMETER.
> 
> Smithers, what's with the dots?



Was gunna comment but gave up


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## kawasakirider (Apr 11, 2011)

I am open to constructive criticism mate. The thing is, I followed the advice, I have been waiting a week between attempts, I just decided not to waste a fuzzy. 

I will be buying this in a few days. Anyone know where I can get one close to Ipswich? I'd rather not wait for it to get shipped. I'll continue using the 5w. I know it isn't hot enough anymore, because I put my hand in the tub on saturday night and it wasn't anywhere near as warm as the terrarium.

Reptapets Heat Mat with Heat Control 12w - $54.90 : Reptile House Australia, Welcome


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## Jungle_Freak (Apr 11, 2011)

Trent ,
I never said to use tongs to feed and watch what happens ? That situation would corse more stress ?
I told you to leave food item at entrance to hide and check the next morning .
Sorry if you feel like we are not helping your situation ? 
But we all are trying ,,,,, because we want the jungle to feed and thrive .


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## kawasakirider (Apr 11, 2011)

I do feel like you're helping mate, your info is golden! It's just that you liked the post where the fella said I should sell my snake.

I have tried leaving it at the front of her hide to no avail, it was just because I had a thawed out fuzzy that I decided to attempt to feed her out of the weekly routine. As I said, I put her back in the terrarium (I know it's not ideal, or even remotely appropriate, but she wanted in because she was cold ((im assuming))), and she was up on the vines near the heat mat, and I wanted her to know that the rat was there and didn't want to scare her with my arms, so I made some (pretty cool  ) tongs out of a coat hanger and wafted it infront of her and she struck and I left it. She was investigating it for over an hour afterward, I don't know what this means?

Jungle_Freak, you offer great advice, I just don't want to sell my snake. Thanks for your input mate.


heat lamp*** not heat mat.


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## shellfisch (Apr 11, 2011)

Ipswich Pet and Aquarium incorporating Risson Produce

They are just in Hooper St, so not far from you. They have a reasonable range of rep stuff. Not sure if they stock that brand, but maybe phone them?


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## Jungle_Freak (Apr 11, 2011)

Ok if she does not take the food, then leave her alone for 5 more days, then offer food as i said,
You really need to be patient and stick to my routine.
But get your temps sorted asap.
Correct temps a vital.
You will eventually get the jungle feeding . Try not to stress out too much yourself ok.
Roger


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## wranga (Apr 11, 2011)

cant believe what ive read in this thread. ive read advice from some of the most experience breeders on this site. ive read that this advice has been followed to the letter, but with alot of things that have been ignored. im still waiting to read what temperature this snake is being kept at, as advised by Ramsayi, and all advice followed excatly as advised by Beeman and Jungle_Freak. i believe this snake will feed if all of this advise is followed. if you cant manage this snake give it to someone that knows what their doing


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## dangles (Apr 11, 2011)

so you dont have a thermometer of any type in your house? even a standard thermometer will let u check temps. You say you have put it into an enclosure with a heatlamp now, how do you know it wont be too hot in there???


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## driftoz (Apr 11, 2011)

somethign like this to check temps only $5 Fish Tank Aquarium Terrarium LCD Digital °C Thermometer | eBay

or Non-Contact IR Laser Gun Infrared Digital Thermometer | eBay is another good thing to use 

or Reptile dial thermometer & hygrometer NEW PACK | eBay 

or ZSJ-002 Digital Two Location Probe Thermometer reptile | eBay

these are some great cheap tools to monitor both hot/basking spot and cool ends of the click clack or enclosure make sure you get the temps right before trying to feed


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## smigga (Apr 11, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> I don't have the cash for a thermometer.



A thermometer is like $5?


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## kawasakirider (Apr 11, 2011)

shellfisch said:


> Ipswich Pet and Aquarium incorporating Risson Produce
> 
> They are just in Hooper St, so not far from you. They have a reasonable range of rep stuff. Not sure if they stock that brand, but maybe phone them?



Thanks Michelle! I appreciate that. I have my car sorted now so I'll go there 



smigga said:


> A thermometer is like $5?


 
Well smigga, think about this...

I am a Uni student with no job, I have just spent the best part of 6 grand relocating and getting set up.
My Uni is 55 killometres from my house. That is a 110km round trip per day. Fuel is $1.60 per litre.
Then I have rent
Then food

I would have the money for a $5 thermometer, BUT I had to buy an altenator and pay for a cab to do a round trip.

$5 is a lot of money when you don't have it, so I don't appreciate the comment mate, I'm doing my best. I'm buying a heat mat with a thermostat next week, so please don't be so critical.



wranga said:


> cant believe what ive read in this thread. ive read advice from some of the most experience breeders on this site. ive read that this advice has been followed to the letter, but with alot of things that have been ignored. im still waiting to read what temperature this snake is being kept at, as advised by Ramsayi, and all advice followed excatly as advised by Beeman and Jungle_Freak. i believe this snake will feed if all of this advise is followed. if you cant manage this snake give it to someone that knows what their doing



The click clack WAS fluctuating between 29 and 32 degrees! The right temperature that was needed. It is now cold. I initially did a "dry run" and temps were within adequate levels, and this is what was suggested. I can't constantly monitor temps in the click clack, but I did in the beggining.



Jungle_Freak said:


> Ok if she does not take the food, then leave her alone for 5 more days, then offer food as i said,
> You really need to be patient and stick to my routine.
> But get your temps sorted asap.
> Correct temps a vital.
> ...


 
Thanks Roger, I appreciate it mate. I'll leave her be. In regards to temps, I have an idea......

She REALLY likes the terrarium. I know it's silly and hatchies like click clacks, but she seems really content in there. The terrarium has two doors, left and right.

If I could somehow seperate them by a divider down the middle, and had the heat lamp directly in the middle so the heat was shared equally I could monitor temps and she could be in an enclosure that she likes.

Is this a stupid idea?


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## shellfisch (Apr 12, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> If I could somehow seperate them by a divider down the middle, and had the heat lamp directly in the middle so the heat was shared equally I could monitor temps and she could be in an enclosure that she likes.



That could work. 
If the terrarium is the type that has a sliding glass door at the front, wedge some newspaper or something between the glass. Snakes (not even hatchies) have escaped that way before.

Your male is probably too fat to get through, but your female could.

Good luck


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## Diamondjay (Apr 12, 2011)

I had the same problem with my diamond. In the end i had to start breeding my own mice and feeding live pinkies etc until he started to take the frozen ones. He would not take either rats or mice even when i brained them or wiggled them. I also had him on aspen bedding, which on occasions he did get stuck in his mouth. I would suggestputting the food on paper, just to avoid it and otherwise just keep a close eye on it when its eating. I just got a wooden sqewer and used it to flick the wood out.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 12, 2011)

shellfisch said:


> That could work.
> If the terrarium is the type that has a sliding glass door at the front, wedge some newspaper or something between the glass. Snakes (not even hatchies) have escaped that way before.
> 
> Your male is probably too fat to get through, but your female could.
> ...


 
Lol, he is a little fatty  The glass doors aren't sliding doors, they just swing open. So If I got something to divide the terrarium, I'm sure it would work. Anyone got any ideas for what do use to divide the terrarium?



Diamondjay said:


> I had the same problem with my diamond. In the end i had to start breeding my own mice and feeding live pinkies etc until he started to take the frozen ones. He would not take either rats or mice even when i brained them or wiggled them. I also had him on aspen bedding, which on occasions he did get stuck in his mouth. I would suggestputting the food on paper, just to avoid it and otherwise just keep a close eye on it when its eating. I just got a wooden sqewer and used it to flick the wood out.


 
I hope it doesn't come to that mate.

I was bored and went to a good pet store here today, as it was close to a place I had to visit. Anyway, I spoke to the owner and told him about my snake and he said that she could be going into early hibernation, and they hibernate for four months!

If I keep the heat up, will the hatchies hibernate? IS it possible that my female is going into early hibernation? When they do hibernate, do they sleep continuously for the whole winter in their hides, like bears?

I want to get her fed if she is going to hibernate soon.... Four months is a long time when she hasn't eaten for a month already, I'll end up with a scaly pencil.


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## saximus (Apr 12, 2011)

You don't brumate hatchies


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## kawasakirider (Apr 12, 2011)

I wasn't intending on turning the heat down, but I told him they were on 24/7 heat and he said they can still hibernate? He also said he wasn't the best one to ask, there is a young zoologist there and she is really helpful, but she was helping another customer. Thanks saximus.

In the wild would they hibernate as hatchlings due to weather?


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## saximus (Apr 12, 2011)

They don't hibernate, they brumate . I don't know what happens in the wild but most people just don't do it in the first year. You don't have to do it at all unless you plan on breeding them.


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## sara_sabian (Apr 12, 2011)

Older snakes tend to brumate regardless of temps (especially the males), this is because they have breeding on their mind rather than food. It's not something that is likely to occur in such a young snake. And it's certainly not something you want to try to force in a young un-feeding jungle. Not saying that's what you're trying to do, just making a point.


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## Jackrabbit (Apr 12, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> It's just that I've tried this a fair amount of times and the more I do it, the more timid she gets. I think she's scared. So I'm not sure to approach it like that, or to just leave it there, brained.
> 
> Anyone have any insight on the aspen?



Sorry don't use aspen but I would suggest feeding in another container or at least on the floor, that way to will get used to coming out to feed.

that said I feed one of my snakes in its enclosure. Last night I tried to feed her and she didn't want to know about it. I jiggled it and ran it along her body buts he wanted none of just wanted to get past the mouse so she could come out and play. so I gave up. Wait a little longer before trying again. Unless it has been way long time since the last feed I would worry if it won't feed now. when it is hungry it will take the next offereing.

Good luck.


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## sara_sabian (Apr 12, 2011)

No offence jackrabbit, but kawasaki- do not try to put this jungle into another container to feed, it's just going to stress her more.
She's in the exoterra now right? If she's in an enclosure with transparent sides I'd try covering them up with newspaper or a towel. It'll help to make her feel a bit more secure.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 12, 2011)

Sara, I wouldn't have tried anyway. Her being cage protective is the last thing I'm worried about. She's VERY placid and I'd rather cop a bite and have her feed, then move her around unnecessarily.


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## shaye (Apr 12, 2011)

i had to do what sara said when i first got my spotted python 
had to cover the outside off the enclosure with newspaper then it seems like one big hide with the other little hides in the enclosure too 
and she ate straight away 
if it was me id be paying alot of attention to jungle freaks comments as he has bred them many times im guessing and would definitly know how to get one feeding 
well im off to bed and i really hope for your sake and the snakes sake it gets eating for u soon  
goodluck and happy herping


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## kawasakirider (Apr 12, 2011)

Thanks mate, Rogers advice is really good. I'll just keep persevering


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## shaye (Apr 12, 2011)

yeh i had the same problem with the spotted annoyed the hell out of me for weeks and weeks 
but as many members on here have probably said or u might have read snakes can go a while without food 
so i wouldnt worry too much unless u see its body form dropping (going skinny etc) 

hope u get it eating  
thanx shaye


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## smigga (Apr 12, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> Well smigga, think about this...
> 
> I am a Uni student with no job, I have just spent the best part of 6 grand relocating and getting set up.
> My Uni is 55 killometres from my house. That is a 110km round trip per day. Fuel is $1.60 per litre.
> ...


 
Sorry mate, i guess i have never been in that sort of situation before so i dont have the grounds to say that.
The divider idea is a great idea just cover up the sides like others have said and be patient and persistent.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 12, 2011)

No dramas mate. $5 isn't a lot of dosh, but it is when your car ****s itself. I'm just glad I'm mechanically minded, otherwise I would have been completely up the creek.


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## Virides (Apr 14, 2011)

Just so I know, what is "Braining" lol Is it a whole egyptian ritual or something? lol


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## saximus (Apr 14, 2011)

It's where you cut open the head and expose the delicious brain and its juices. Apparently even most fussy snakes find it irresistible. I mean who wouldn't


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## kawasakirider (Apr 14, 2011)

Well my snake doesn't seem to like the idea too much. I might try the snakebytestv method next time I try to feed her (scent with tuna and put rub the pinky all around a small plastic cup with a lid, then pop her in there and leave it) apparently it's meant to overwhelm the snake.


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## saximus (Apr 14, 2011)

I don't know for sure but I wouldn't think "overwhelming" an already stressed snakey is the best idea. Don't stress it will happen you just need to wait


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## Snakelove (Apr 14, 2011)

My coastal hatchy didn't feed for me, I left it completely alone for 3 weeks, mind you I didn't try to feed it every week. I made sure it was hungry and it took the rat. It was feeding on mice previously too.


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## saximus (Apr 14, 2011)

You're lucky SL. I had a hatchy Bredli go for about three or four months when I tried moving him to rats. He just would not take them. He's only just started taking rats that haven't been mouse scented in the last month


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## beeman (Apr 14, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> Well my snake doesn't seem to like the idea too much. I might try the snakebytestv method next time I try to feed her (scent with tuna and put rub the pinky all around a small plastic cup with a lid, then pop her in there and leave it) apparently it's meant to overwhelm the snake.



You have Junglefreak helping you, Pay attention to what he is providing in the way of assistance and forget about everyone else's advice.

You dont seem to grasp the process at all! remember its the snake that is suffering!


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## Snakelove (Apr 14, 2011)

saximus said:


> You're lucky SL. I had a hatchy Bredli go for about three or four months when I tried moving him to rats. He just would not take them. He's only just started taking rats that haven't been mouse scented in the last month


 
I do consider myself lucky. I've never had any difficulties with feeding my snakes and if I do then I always do the same thing which is leave them for 2-3 weeks at a time.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 14, 2011)

beeman said:


> You have Junglefreak helping you, Pay attention to what he is providing in the way of assistance and forget about everyone else's advice.
> 
> You dont seem to grasp the process at all! remember its the snake that is suffering!


 
Mate, I have been doing everything Roger has told me. I'll keep persevering. I see what you're saying about overwhelming her. I'll just keep continuing until it works 

Saximus, noted buddy. Cheers.


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## Red-Ink (Apr 14, 2011)

Alright... this is how i got mine started on the 3rd week into not feeding. Braining plus scenting.
Brained the mouse and I shoved some cockatiel feathers in there, the soft downy stuff. Took it first go... week later brained mouse... week later mouse.


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## Jungle_Freak (Apr 14, 2011)

kawasakirider said:


> Well my snake doesn't seem to like the idea too much. I might try the snakebytestv method next time I try to feed her (scent with tuna and put rub the pinky all around a small plastic cup with a lid, then pop her in there and leave it) apparently it's meant to overwhelm the snake.


 
ARE you serious ?
Ive told you exactly what to do and to stick to that advice
but you cant even control yourself ? 
in that you panic everyday and try different feeding methods .

You cannot leave the poor jungle alone long enough for it too get over being stressed by all your actions etc

in case you did not no this ?? 
pythons that age can go 2 or 3 months without a feed before you need to panic like your doing ??????????????
leave the jungle alone for christs sake man


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## kawasakirider (Apr 14, 2011)

Jungle_Freak said:


> ARE you serious ?
> Ive told you exactly what to do and to stick to that advice
> but you cant even control yourself ?
> in that you panic everyday and try different feeding methods .
> ...


 
I am sticking to your advice.


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## slide (Apr 21, 2011)

Just a thought... if the aspen is quite thick it might be acting as an insulator, preventing the heat from passing through to the enclosure. another thing is that jungles are predominantly arboreal (live in the trees) so it might not feel safe coming down to the floor to heat up on top of the heat mat. [I wasnt sure if you have acually put her in the other enclosure with a heat lamp]. If its still in the click clack maybe you could try taping the heat mat to one of the sides by its pearch so it can decide to go to the warm side of the perch or the cold side... as I say, just a thought.
SO... WHAT ARE YOUR TEMPERATURES???????????
If you havent already got a thermometer because you cant afford it yet (it seems you havent got one yet as there has been no mention of your current temps) PM me your address (if you are comfortable with that) and I will have one sent to your house/work... knowing your temps is critical and without this knowledge people cant help you any further, no matter how many ways you try and _flavour_ your mice/rats- its as simple as that.
I really want this to work out for you and especially for the hatchie.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 21, 2011)

I took the hatchy back to the breeder and got a strong feeder mate. He has just shed tonight and I'll be trying him tomorrow. I got payed today and was at the vet, where I was going to buy a thermometer, but they only had a $40 one with two probes. Will be buying one tomorrow. Cheers.

Very interesting point about the aspen, too. I wouldn't have thought of that.


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## jacks-pythons (Apr 21, 2011)

i agree with slide. if the temps arnt right its not going to eat. remember there cold blooded animals and need to be warmed up to be able to digest there food properly. always have a thermometer if u not get a thermostate. u can get then cheap on the net.


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## slide (Apr 22, 2011)

Great that you could finally get the breeder to replace the python, I wish you luck with the new baby. 
Bunnings has some good didital thermometers that are for reading both at the unit and at the probe which has about 2m of cord, I use these to measure both the room temp and the temp inside the tub at the same time. also in my larger enclosures I install the unit inside the enclosure at the cool end and run the probe to the warm end so i can see both temps at the same time, it also has a max/min function so I can see how cool things got during the night and how hot they got during the day then I just press reset and check again the next day. This is very good when setting up new tubs or making any changes to your setup as you can check constantly and make any necessary adjustments to your setup, you can also move the probe to different spots to check temps around the tub but I would just leave it in one spot when settling in a snake as it will cause disturbance and possibly stress- this can be done however when doing a dry run on a setup or if you have a tub that is set up identical with no animals in it but I am guessing that as money is an issue and you already have your animals then you wont have the cash for extra heat mats that you will not be using. I have found them to be very reliable and a necessary tool for only $12, cheap enough to put one in each tub if needed but if the tubs are set up identically in the same circuit with the same heat source then in theory the temps should be the same. You can find them in the gardening aisles and I think they are labelled as 'indoor/outdoor digital thermometer' or something like that- Cheap but not nasty.
Good luck settling in the new bub just follow Jungle Freak's advice for this guy and as long as your temps are sweet then you should have a happy snake. remember to let the new guy settle in- no handling, dont attempt to feed for the first week, and (I know its really hard when you get a new snake as its an exciting time) but dont keep looking in at it, there is plenty of time for that- possibly 20 odd years if all goes well. Just let it chill out and learn that its new environment is not a threatening place, then the feeding should come naturally. You might be able to find a second hand thermostat in the for sale section on this site or even on eBay for a resonable price, this would be a great investment in your pets health, its much cheaper than a vet bill thats for sure!
Check out some of the articles at _www.sxr.com.au/RA ARTICLE PAGE.htm_ there is some great info there and its all layed out right in front of you.
Good luck with every thing.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 22, 2011)

Thanks mate, I'm in the middle of packing up to head home for Easter so I'll read and have a decent reply tonight.

Just an update; the hatch that I got to replace the non feeder has a small spinal deformity. Anyway the breeder didn't wanna charge me for him and gave me another snake. So I have 3 now. 

The one I got home yesterday is quite feisty and smashed down a pinky rat after I let her settle for a while. The one with lumps on it's spine hasn't eaten but I will just give him time.

Thanks for the replies everyone.


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## WAG_S (Apr 23, 2011)

Hi all, long time fan first time poster lol.......

i have just bought a yearling coastal python little 2 day ago. (first snake)
still yet to feed him. he looks very skinny very slight outline of bones. i have him in a home made clcik clack inside a 4x2x2 enclosure Im hoping to attempt to feed shortly but many say to wait a week???? before trying? the guy i bought from said he will be due for a feed about now. Should i attempt to feed or should i allow him the time to settle?

Also should i be feeding him in the clcik clack? or in the bigger enclosure. Have been told not to handle after feeding ???


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## shellfisch (Apr 23, 2011)

leigh4337 said:


> Also should i be feeding him in the clcik clack? or in the bigger enclosure. Have been told not to handle after feeding ???



First, and most important, check that your temps are all good (if you haven't already)
Next, leave him alone for several days.
Then, attempt a feed. Don't remove him from his home to feed.
Give it a few days after a feed to handle, but preferably, get 2-3 consecutive, trouble free feeds into him before you introduce any handling. That will minimize any problems you may experience. 
Good luck.


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## veenarm (Apr 23, 2011)

Wow, not cool it came to replacing the snake...
I have 2 new diamonds and one being a hatchie and one is about 8months old, hatchie never strikes at me, but wont feed - just shed as well, but didnt eat last night - I've only had the hatchie for 11days so i'm just going to ignore her for 2 weeks, her temps are 32 in the high rise, and she moves around the enclosure as she pleases.

The 8 month old one however, was tricky never ate, and still struggles - but sometimes i leave a pinky in the enclosure and she decides to take it, however my issue is she is VERY snappy, likes biting me... and protective, had her over a month now, hoping she calms down and not so scares later as she is a magnificent animal - breeder has offered to replace however I don't want to 

Braining for me doesn't work - but I will try egg yolk next week!

Also, the 8month old seems very interested in my scent and biting me, rather than the mouse when i put it in!


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## slide (Apr 23, 2011)

veenarm said:


> the 8month old seems very interested in my scent and biting me, rather than the mouse when i put it in!


 Is your mouse warm enough? maybe the heat you give off is much warmer than that of the mouse/, add that with the scent of mouse and you become the target. Are you offering a pink mouse or rat? how small is your 8 month old???


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## veenarm (Apr 23, 2011)

mm come to think about it, i don't really warm them up, just defrost it then leave it, so its probably cold when feedind (but thawed) how do you warm it? hot water or heat lamp/pad? i know can't microwave etc...

8month old is .. wait i have the stats here.. Ah here it is.. Charlie, weighed 17/04/11 - 32grams, 52cm long

Charlie is very snappy, and cage aggressive though, so trying to leave him alone for as long as possible, hoping he calms down in a few more weeks.


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## kawasakirider (Apr 23, 2011)

That's REALLY light for an 8 month old! Kinda short, too. Our big male is 41grams and can't remember how long, about 45cm. He's 3-4 months.

Hope you get him feeding.


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## veenarm (Apr 23, 2011)

He is a Diamond, but yeh, his feed chart is consistent he does eat, but not all the time


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## shellfisch (Apr 23, 2011)

veenarm said:


> how do you warm it?



hot tap water (not boiling) replace the hot water if necessary until the food item is warmed through


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## veenarm (Apr 23, 2011)

oh, they are both in perfect health as well, noticed them both bathing the other day and the baby shed 2 days ago.. i uploaded some pics of them and enclosures to my album on aPS..



shellfisch said:


> hot tap water (not boiling) replace the hot water if necessary until the food item is warmed through


 
Ah cool that's what I thought


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## WAG_S (Apr 23, 2011)

thanks shellfish, 

just wondering when you check the temps at both ends im guessing you take it at snakes level? i have 31.5 at hot end and 26 at the cool end at ground level.

Thanks for your advice about feeding,handling etc. Will wait atleast another week before feeding and wont handle for three weeks.


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## slide (Apr 23, 2011)

veenarm said:


> his feed chart is consistent he does eat, but not all the time


 Then I would say he is not a consistent feeder, or you could say he is consistently inconsistent??? jokes aside food can be warmed with warm tap water, even defrosted in it just when you get onto bigger meals you might need to change the water a few times as the larger the food the more heat will be stripped from the water. Remember not to use boiling water. If you feed the prey item at say 20 degrees and the snake is say 30 degrees then it will effectively be cooling the snake. Hope that helps. 
If you still have issues then its probably a good idea to start your own thread as it takes others threads off topic. Good luck

also the more reading and research you do the better it will be for you and your scaly mates


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## kawasakirider (Apr 23, 2011)

slide said:


> Then I would say he is not a consistent feeder, or you could say he is consistently inconsistent??? jokes aside food can be warmed with warm tap water, even defrosted in it just when you get onto bigger meals you might need to change the water a few times as the larger the food the more heat will be stripped from the water. Remember not to use boiling water. If you feed the prey item at say 20 degrees and the snake is say 30 degrees then it will effectively be cooling the snake. Hope that helps.
> If you still have issues then its probably a good idea to start your own thread as it takes others threads off topic. Good luck
> 
> also the more reading and research you do the better it will be for you and your scaly mates


 
I don't mind. This thread has been a rollercoaster. I'm just stoked that my newest addition is a good feeder, and "lumpy" should feed (he's bigger than the other one so it's obvious he's been eating, and he shed the first night I had him).


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## veenarm (Apr 23, 2011)

Fair enough, I mean I have never seen him eat, looks at it and strikes at me instead, but he feeds every 2 weeks or so, but try feed him sooner, he doesn't want it. I've got a pinkie in both enclosures for tonight. If no joy then leave them for another 7 days try again, no rush or panicking really they are healthy and lively (very) so im good, seen them bathing as well so very lovely to watch, only the rare eating


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## Miss_Stripey (Apr 25, 2011)

mmmmkkk 
welll if you replaced the snake good on the breeder for taking the non feeder back BAD on them for Giving you another with a spinal deformity!!!! It goes to show people should not sell their animals to inexperienced people when they are not feeding properly and they should not sell deformed animals OR give them away as replacements!!!

Sorry mate this does not seem like your fault but i think that breeder is dodge......


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