# Iron-on melamine edging



## Renenet (Nov 29, 2013)

Hi, 

I'm looking for some advice about iron-on melamine edging, please. I have a second-hand melamine enclosure that has no edging in some places and edging coming off in others. It's starting to annoy me and I'd like to fix it up. 

I've seen the iron-on edging in Bunnings, but at 21 mm it's too wide. My melamine edging strips are a touch over 17 mm. My questions are: can I trim the 21 mm edging and if so, what do I use to avoid chipping? If not, does anyone know somewhere that sells thinner edging in white for a small project?

Thanks,
Ren


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## OldestMagician (Nov 29, 2013)

It would be hard to get it on nicely if it was exactly the same width as the melamine. 
What I did was iron it on and then cut with the blade of a Stanley knife removed from the knife itself. As long as it's sharp you should have no problems with chipping. The edging is pretty sturdy.


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## mjcarpentry (Nov 29, 2013)

Just iron it on and leave it to set for 5 minutes. Then push against the overhang to break the excess and finish the edging of with sandpaper.


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## Renenet (Nov 29, 2013)

Cool, thanks. Now all I have to do is wait until Bunnings get the white colour in stock.


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## Steve0402 (Nov 29, 2013)

I just iron on and let it set and then run a stanly knife along the edge and it worked great


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## The_Geeza (Nov 30, 2013)

A little tip I use... Stanley blades r very sharp but I use a sharpening stone to make even sharper.... This makes very easy work of it


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## 5potted (Nov 30, 2013)

I iron it on then cut off the edging with a razor blade. I cut I straight away as the heat makes it softer to cut. Also after sitting for a few minutes to harden I found the edges would sometimes snap while I was cutting and ended up with a very uneven edge.


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## Lawra (Nov 30, 2013)

5potted said:


> I iron it on then cut off the edging with a razor blade. I cut I straight away as the heat makes it softer to cut. Also after sitting for a few minutes to harden I found the edges would sometimes snap while I was cutting and ended up with a very uneven edge.



+1 for razor blade and cutting while hot.

I use those paint scraper things that you insert a blade in the top.


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## slide (Nov 30, 2013)

A tip my cabinet maker friend showed me is to run something with a smoothe rounded edge such as the shaft of a screw driver along the edge of the edge tape at a 45 degree angle after you trim it down. This takes the pointy/sharp edge off the edge tape. 

Hard to put this into words but easy to do...


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## pythonmum (Nov 30, 2013)

We have creased the excess with a screwdriver or block and then taken off the excess with a steel file. It gives you a nice, tapered edge.


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## justin91 (Nov 30, 2013)

Use a file. Put it on a 45 degree angle and push down. Might take a few attempts to get a good rhythm but once you do its the best way of doing it. (I was shown by a builder who had plenty of experience with iron on edging)


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## Ramsayi (Nov 30, 2013)

justin91 said:


> Use a file. Put it on a 45 degree angle and push down.



This^^


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## KingSirloin (Nov 30, 2013)

Iron a few short pieces onto thin offcuts and try a few of the methods shown above to see which one works for you and gives the best result. Then try that on the cabinet.


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## Renenet (Dec 1, 2013)

KingSirloin said:


> Iron a few short pieces onto thin offcuts and try a few of the methods shown above to see which one works for you and gives the best result. Then try that on the cabinet.



Good idea. Although it's a second-hand enclosure I still have a divider that I took out of it. I'll practise on that.


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## Pythoninfinite (Dec 1, 2013)

A fine/medium flat b.a.s.t.a.r.d (bloody editor!) file will do the job easily and quickly - start carefully at one end, and with the file at about 45 degrees to the corner, push the file downwards as you draw it towards you along the edge. You should get a curled piece of the overlap hanging off with each stroke. DO NOT draw the file UPWARDS while in contact with the edge, or you risk pulling the edging strip away - ALWAYS use a DOWNWARD stroke when in contact with the workpiece.

This should give you a very neat edge which then needs only a light rub with sandpaper and a block to smooth down. Don't be too vigorous with the sanding either as the melamine is thin and you will expose the particleboard along the edge.

Jamie


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## Renenet (Dec 1, 2013)

Thanks for the advice, everyone. Looks like I have a small project to do over Christmas. 



Pythoninfinite said:


> A fine/medium flat b.a.s.t.a.r.d (bloody editor!) file will do the job easily and quickly - start carefully at one end, and with the file at about 45 degrees to the corner, push the file downwards as you draw it towards you along the edge. You should get a curled piece of the overlap hanging off with each stroke. DO NOT draw the file UPWARDS while in contact with the edge, or you risk pulling the edging strip away - ALWAYS use a DOWNWARD stroke when in contact with the workpiece.
> 
> This should give you a very neat edge which then needs only a light rub with sandpaper and a block to smooth down. Don't be too vigorous with the sanding either as the melamine is thin and you will expose the particleboard along the edge.
> 
> Jamie



A b.a.s.t.a.r.d. file? I wonder how it got that name.


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## Pythoninfinite (Dec 1, 2013)

Renenet said:


> Thanks for the advice, everyone. Looks like I have a small project to do over Christmas.
> 
> 
> 
> A b.a.s.t.a.r.d. file? I wonder how it got that name.



Lol! From Google...

"It got it's name because a ******* file is a file whose teeth configuration is in between a rough or coarse file. The word ******* can also mean something unusual or irregular. You can use it for sharpening and smoothing."

I meant to mention keep the file face flat against the edge of the workpiece. Also, use a small wood block to fold the ends of the edging strip down over the corners of the workpiece BEFORE doing the edges, and break them away - it will give you a clean corner and also a clean start on cutting the excess along the sides.

J


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## Renenet (Dec 2, 2013)

Thanks Jamie.


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## Irbz_27 (Dec 3, 2013)

Just done the edges on the enclosure I built. Very easy to get it looking good. I'm sure all the methods people have mentioned are very effective, but for me I just went the simple option of a sharp razor blade and sliced along straight after ironing it on. Can't see that I would have got a better finish with any more stuffing around...
And the beauty of the edging strip being 21mm, it hid a few slight imperfections that may or may not have been present. Not that there were any of course


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## Shaggz (Dec 3, 2013)

Pythoninfinite said:


> A fine/medium flat b.a.s.t.a.r.d (bloody editor!) file will do the job easily and quickly - start carefully at one end, and with the file at about 45 degrees to the corner, push the file downwards as you draw it towards you along the edge. You should get a curled piece of the overlap hanging off with each stroke. DO NOT draw the file UPWARDS while in contact with the edge, or you risk pulling the edging strip away - ALWAYS use a DOWNWARD stroke when in contact with the workpiece.
> 
> This should give you a very neat edge which then needs only a light rub with sandpaper and a block to smooth down. Don't be too vigorous with the sanding either as the melamine is thin and you will expose the particleboard along the edge.
> 
> Jamie



I used to work in a furniture factory and the file method is the method we used, we made high quality furniture at a fast pace and that was the most effective method


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## borntobnude (Dec 3, 2013)

Father in law was a cabinet maker -- he had an iron with no thermostat so it got HOT and a little device made specifically for trimming the edging it had a right angle with a blade in one edge and he always did it while the tape was hot !


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## Unclewo-wo (Dec 29, 2013)

File it back making sure you are pressing on to the wood


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