# My Python won't eat



## Dustproof (Sep 22, 2015)

Hi all,

I have a 3yo Stimpson Python that hasn't eaten for 5 months, she seems in good condition but I am getting concerned. Each time I try to feed her she starts to shake and wants to strike at me, she got me once, so I use a rubber glove now just to save a little blood on my part.

Since using the glove she seems a little less aggressive, she took a Pinkie mouse but dropped it after holding it for a while. Before she went off food, she was taking day old chicks, she also shed which wasn't complete, she only has a little left now. She has a heat mat with her hide over it, I have also put a heat fan with 35w globe, it seems a nice temp in there but she is still not eating.

I have a male Stimpson who went off food for a month, he started eating again but not so enthusiastically so I put that down to Winter. I am giving him food every two weeks and check to see if he is attracted to my hand on the on the outside of the enclosure. All he has for heat is a tile with a heat mat under it, I keep a thermometer fixed to it and keep the temp at 30 to 32 deg. 

I am just getting concerned and don't like the idea of forced feeding, I am sure she would not like that. If this is the only option, she will need to go to the Vet. We have a good one that is the Vet for the Reptile Park who has a great interest in Pythons.

I am a newby so any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Noel


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## twistedFrog (Sep 22, 2015)

I have never had a stimmie but I have heard from people that have them that it is not uncommon for them to go without a feed for a very long time sometimes even up to 9 months. They usually come back into feeding mode towards the end of September and through the summer months. You did not mention where you are located, will help others to better answer this for you. You said she seems in good condition, not losing weight? So should be fine. Wait for one of the seasoned stimmie members. They will have a more complete answer for you soon.


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## Wokka (Sep 22, 2015)

I wouldn't worry about your stimmie not eating this early in spring. Could she be gravid?


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## pinefamily (Sep 22, 2015)

OK, a lot of questions, as they occur to me.
How long have you had your pythons?
Has your 'aggressive" python always been that way, or only since it went off its food?
Has it gone off its food before?
How long has it been in this enclosure?
Are the two in together?
Initial thoughts: most, if not all snakes go off their food over winter. A lot of keepers don't even feed their snakes at all in the cooler months. Move the hide off the heat mat. Your hide should be away from the heat source. If it is in good condition, don't be concerned at this stage.


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## Dustproof (Sep 22, 2015)

I am located on the Central Coast NSW, the weather is warming up at present but my house has been pretty cold, that is why I installed the fan heater.


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## PythonLegs (Sep 22, 2015)

Heat fans are rubbish as they suck all the humidity out of the air and lead to shedding problems, as well as moving the heat all around the enclosure and destroying the gradient.
Have you tired just leaving the mouse after she's struck and walking away? Might just be shy.


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## Dustproof (Sep 22, 2015)

We have had her for 2 years, she is usually very placid, after she has been aggressive she can be OK again in an hour or two. She has always been a good eater and we moved her from Mice to Chicks she has been fine. She has been in the enclosure for about a year old, it was bought new, it has a UV light and the light in the fan heater. The male is in a Glass enclosure with just the heat mat and UV light. We have separate enclosures for them because we don't want them mating, we aren't into breeding them.


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## pinefamily (Sep 22, 2015)

PythonLegs said:


> Heat fans are rubbish as they suck all the humidity out of the air and lead to shedding problems, as well as moving the heat all around the enclosure and destroying the gradient.
> Have you tired just leaving the mouse after she's struck and walking away? Might just be shy.


I missed that about the heat fan. Very true. And antaresias are not the best shedders at the best of times.

- - - Updated - - -

Has she pooped after her last feed?


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## Dustproof (Sep 22, 2015)

pinefamily said:


> I missed that about the heat fan. Very true. And antaresias are not the best shedders at the best of times.
> 
> - - - Updated - - -
> 
> Has she pooped after her last feed?



She pooped a week or so ago, I figured that was just a hang over, this is when I tried her on a pinkie mouse just to see if she would take it. The heat fan was designed by the owner of the Australian Reptile Park, I thought it would warm the air inside the enclosure.


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## pinefamily (Sep 22, 2015)

Has she gone off her food since the heat fan?


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## Wokka (Sep 22, 2015)

Fan heaters dry out the air and make it difficult to achieve a suitable temperature gradient. I would think a pink mouse is not worth feeding to a 3yo stimmie. If she was on day old chick she'll handle an adult mouse


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## Dustproof (Sep 22, 2015)

I put the fan heater in to try and warm the enclosure to get her to eat, it is not the cause of her not eating. We are trying a chick tonight, so we will see what happens.


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## cement (Sep 22, 2015)

Another coastie!
I'm here on the coast too, and we are about to get hammered with bad weather, its cooling down right now. If she's not eating over the past week then she may not until we get our nice weather back.
Its all about temperature dustproof, and ambient temperature is just as important as having a basking site. In your house at the moment you are probably looking at having an ambient temp that goes from as low as 10 degrees, to a high of 14-16 degrees. So depending on the size and the insulative properties of your cage the heating element (heat pad or light or whatever) may not be warming the cage enough and therefore she is just too cold to eat.
Dont worry, things will warm up and she'll be back feeding no worries. If she's not losing condition and you can't feel ribs, then she's fine. Petes a great reptile vet, but I don't beleive you need him yet.


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## hulloosenator (Sep 22, 2015)

A few tips ....

I havnt even tried to feed my snakes for 5 months .... you dont need to feed them over winter.
Throw away the fan heater........ the incomplete shed skin is telling you that it is too dry.
You dont have to heat the whole cage .... just one side , so the snake has somewhere to go when it is hot as well as when it is cold.
Remove the hide off the heat pad.
And , pink mice for a 3 yr old ???? and straight onto day old chicks ????? as in chickens ???? ( KFC type chickens )...... mmmmm ??? 
There is a few good books around about keeping pythons in captivity .....do yourself a favour and ask Santa to get you one.


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## twistedFrog (Sep 22, 2015)

cement said:


> Another coastie!
> I'm here on the coast too, and we are about to get hammered with bad weather, its cooling down right now. If she's not eating over the past week then she may not until we get our nice weather back.
> Its all about temperature dustproof, and ambient temperature is just as important as having a basking site. In your house at the moment you are probably looking at having an ambient temp that goes from as low as 10 degrees, to a high of 14-16 degrees. So depending on the size and the insulative properties of your cage the heating element (heat pad or light or whatever) may not be warming the cage enough and therefore she is just too cold to eat.
> Dont worry, things will warm up and she'll be back feeding no worries. If she's not losing condition and you can't feel ribs, then she's fine. Petes a great reptile vet, but I don't beleive you need him yet.



Yeah me too Cement, I am down low near the Woy, where you at? And I am hearing that storm brewing outside as I type.


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## pythoninfinite (Sep 23, 2015)

Some Stimson's only eat for a few months every year, and survive perfectly on 4-5 mice during that time. If it was feeding fine with the setup you had previously, it will feed in the future with the same setup. You'll just cause a problem by trying to adjust the enclosure because YOU think it should be feeding at this time of the year. When they stop feeding, whether it's seasonal, hormonal or whatever, their metabolism changes to accommodate the reduced food intake. If you start to do things like upping the temps to try and get it feeding, you'll cause it to use more stored energy than it should be, and you'll throw the metabolic balance out. 

It's perfectly normal for adult Stimson's to spend 6-8 months not feeding in the cooler months, even when we keep them warm (they MUST have a cool place to retire to at this time to allow their metabolism to slow) so attempts to prevent this may do more harm than good. Also, it's best to leave them alone at this time, and significantly reduce handling.

Jamie


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## twistedFrog (Sep 23, 2015)

pythoninfinite said:


> Some Stimson's only eat for a few months every year, and survive perfectly on 4-5 mice during that time. If it was feeding fine with the setup you had previously, it will feed in the future with the same setup. You'll just cause a problem by trying to adjust the enclosure because YOU think it should be feeding at this time of the year. When they stop feeding, whether it's seasonal, hormonal or whatever, their metabolism changes to accommodate the reduced food intake. If you start to do things like upping the temps to try and get it feeding, you'll cause it to use more stored energy than it should be, and you'll throw the metabolic balance out.
> 
> It's perfectly normal for adult Stimson's to spend 6-8 months not feeding in the cooler months, even when we keep them warm (they MUST have a cool place to retire to at this time to allow their metabolism to slow) so attempts to prevent this may do more harm than good. Also, it's best to leave them alone at this time, and significantly reduce handling.
> 
> Jamie


This is why this forum is so critical to the best interests of the animals we keep. A seasoned professional chimes in with exactly the right advice, from many years of experience, knowledge and down right forthrightness to share that knowledge. thank you Jamie, the world is a better place because people like you are open to sharing their knowledge. And why because the welfare of the animals is the priority, may karma give back to you in spades!!!


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## Dustproof (Sep 27, 2015)

I tried to feed her again but still no good. Should I move the Hide off the heat mat? I fear that she might not go looking for heat and she gets so cold, she has always been on the heat mat.. Sorry, but I am wanting to do the right thing by her. My male is very happy with his hide on the heat tile. It looks as though the female is going to shed, her skin has gone a milky color so I guess we will see soon enough.


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## pinefamily (Sep 27, 2015)

As mentioned above in this thread, move the hides off the heat sources.


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## pythoninfinite (Sep 28, 2015)

Dustproof said:


> I tried to feed her again but still no good. Should I move the Hide off the heat mat? I fear that she might not go looking for heat and she gets so cold, she has always been on the heat mat.. Sorry, but I am wanting to do the right thing by her. My male is very happy with his hide on the heat tile. It looks as though the female is going to shed, her skin has gone a milky color so I guess we will see soon enough.



Read post #16 again...

If the snake chooses the cool part of the enclosure, it will because that suits the animal at that particular time. Stimson's Pythons come from a very wide range in Australia, and much of it gets extremely cold in winter. Frosts would be common in much of their range, they just find somewhere to shelter from damp and cold draughts, but the animals themselves get VERY cold - this is normal for them. If they choose somewhere cool in the enclosure and become less active, you should just leave them alone until they commence a "normal" routine again. Constantly disturbing them at this time of the year when they are still (by choice) largely dormant will lead to other health problems, respiratory infection being the most likely. One thing, if you keep the temperatures up, or force the snake to remain too warm, you will likely cause it to have shedding difficulties if the separating skin dehydrates and sticks to the new layer underneath. I would put a range of hides in different places in the enclosure (no reason why you should have only one) and let the snake chose where it wants to be. It knows better than you what its needs are.

Jamie


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## Dustproof (Sep 28, 2015)

Thanks Jamie, I will get two additional Hides for them, this sounds the best option for them to either stay warm or cool as they need. I have turned off the Heat Fan so I will mover the current Hides until I get the others. I have been scared to keep them away from heat but it seems my concerns are not warranted, I will wait a while and see if she eats when the weather get warmer.

Thanks people.
Noel


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## pythoninfinite (Sep 28, 2015)

Increasing ambient temps and longer days stimulate the reactivation of normal activity for these guys - when I was a dealer in WA it wasn't unusual for adult Stimmies to remain off food until Nov-Dec, and then only eat half a dozen mice until they shut down again in May. I think this is quite normal actually. As others have said, fan heaters are probably the worst heating tool ever invented for herps - they dry out the air and they don't allow any cool spots in the enclosure. Heat cords between tiles are probably the best way to go for pythons, waterproof and as long as they don't get damaged, last for years.

You don't need to get anything fancy for hides - small cardboard boxes into which the snakes can fit tightly are very suitable temporarily - may not look all that great but the snakes don't care about that.

Jamie


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## pinefamily (Sep 28, 2015)

You can pick up a cat litter tray from the cheap shops for a few dollars; turned upside down with a hole cut out they make great hides.
And Jamie, the fan heater might tie for the worst heating tool with heat rocks.


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## Dustproof (Sep 28, 2015)

What do you think is a good product for lifting the ambient temp in the enclosure? I was turning the heat fan off at night to try and simulate day and night temps. I have heard that heat rocks are pretty ordinary as the can burn the snake, so they are out. I will dismantle the heat fan and leave her be. Both snakes hides are now off the heat source, I will get some hides setup soon.

I love my babies and want to do the best I can for them, I won't be breeding them at all because I would end up keeping all the babies. I am glad I found this Forum, it is very hard trying to get information. Thanks a lot, you have put my mine at ease.

Noel


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## pinefamily (Sep 28, 2015)

See Jamie's reply #20 : raising the temps can do more harm than good. They will become more active in their own time. Stimson's are possibly the worst for going off their food in the cooler months.


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## cement (Sep 28, 2015)

Hey Noel,
If they have a warm spot that gets to 35 degress, you don't need to worry about the ambient temps, in the wild a snake regulates its own temperature by shuttling in or out of the sun, this is called thermoregulation. So in captivity, this is what we want the snake to do too, have access to a warm spot and a cooler spot so it can get heat when it wants it, and cool off when it wants it too. A lot of snakes will get under the substrate (most people use newspaper) and this way they also feel safe and secure because they are out of site and they can go on or off the heat as they wish staying under cover. Sometimes a young snake won't thermoregulate if it feels insecure, choosing to stay hidden rather then risk exposure by travelling between two hides. This leads to stress. 
Only time you need to be concerned about the ambient temperature is when it approaches 30 degrees, because add your heat source to that and then you run the risk of over heating the enclosure and the snake can't cool down. Thermostats are used for this reason, when the ambient temps get to high they cut off the heat source.


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## Dustproof (Sep 28, 2015)

Thanks Cement, I have a thermostat for the heat mat, I have a tile for her to be on if she wants. I have observed that she climbs a branch I put in the enclosure, she wraps herself around it and hangs. She runs around the enclosure looking out the glass doors so she is not always on the heat mat, now I know why, so this is pretty cool (Pardon the pun).


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## cement (Sep 28, 2015)

Thats right, wild snakes have to move to find prey or mates at this time of the year, but they get tired easily, by warming themselves they gain the energy they need to be active.


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## miss_mosher (Sep 30, 2015)

Hi there,
You've got some awesome advice going here. One of my spotted pythons took her first feed yesterday after 9 months, another one I have will eat through winter if I allow her, same temps. Everything will be fine


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## pythoninfinite (Sep 30, 2015)

miss_mosher said:


> Hi there,
> You've got some awesome advice going here. One of my spotted pythons took her first feed yesterday after 9 months, another one I have will eat through winter if I allow her, same temps. Everything will be fine



Like humans, they're all individuals. Youngsters seem more keen to feed through the cooler months. Once they reach adulthood, and growth slows and the hormones kick in, then feeding becomes a bit less predictable. But just be aware of the fact that if a snake was feeding regularly under one set of conditions, and (barring ill health) it stops feeding, you don't need to change things to get it feeding again - it will start feeding again when it is ready. There is a tendency for newbies to try and feed their animals very frequently and regularly - this is quite an abnormal circumstance for snakes - they get a meal when it becomes available, and it might be months between feeds in the wild, and then they might get another the next night. Healthy snakes go off food for many reasons, not all of them known to us.

Jamie


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## Dustproof (Oct 23, 2015)

Phew.... you will be happy to know that she took a pinki rat, I felt like a proud dad. She fed last weekend and I will feed her again this weekend, she looks a bit hungry so I am moving her to Hopper mice to try and get her feeding properly again. By her size, she would take an adult mouse but I just thought her tummy might have shrunk a little whilst not eating. What do you think?


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## Prof_Moreliarty (Oct 23, 2015)

Dustproof said:


> Phew.... you will be happy to know that she took a pinki rat, I felt like a proud dad. She fed last weekend and I will feed her again this weekend, she looks a bit hungry so I am moving her to Hopper mice to try and get her feeding properly again. By her size, she would take an adult mouse but I just thought her tummy might have shrunk a little whilst not eating. What do you think?



Hey mate good to hear, just feed her the adult mouse next time she will be fine.


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## Dopamel (Oct 24, 2015)

my Ball didn't eat for about four months one time so i soaked her rat in chicken broth and bam, she loved it.....i hear thats rare though but i'd still try soaking something in chicken broth. i like the above comment about leaving the mouse in there because she could be shy....also make sure the mouse/rat is warmed up when feeding


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## Smurf (Oct 24, 2015)

Hey mate, I'd be offering her a bigger mouse than pinkies. Just wondering if you've tried leaving the mouse with her overnight? She may want to eat in her own time in privacy. I have a couple stealth eaters. 
Also. Is there any potential that she is gravid? My female is still off food but has retreated to the lay box and gets really jumpy when I do anything now. She's real close to dropping I think. 
Adding more hides is a good call, I have multiple options for all my pythons.
Also, I've heard chicks aren't actually a great feed, but can be very handy for scenting stimmie food.


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## Dustproof (Dec 10, 2015)

Hi Smurf,

I have her eating Pinkie Rats, she doesn't seem to like Mice. I am going to get her some Fuzzy Rats and see how they go. She eats only once a month at present, my boy eats weekly and probably more if I gave them to him. Last Pinkie I gave my girl, she hit is so hard, I couldn't get the tweezers out, I had to leave them in there until she released them and snuck them out.

I tried leaving the Rats in the enclosure but she would never eat them, I find that they seem to go to heat when they get hungry. They come out at night, my girl is very active but my boy comes out when it's dark or when he is hungry. Our snakes live in different enclosures so there is no chance she is pregnant.

Now she is eating again, I will try her on a couple of different types of food but soaking in chicken broth sounds good, we sometimes do this for our cats when they don't like a particular food.


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