# 8x4x2ft enclosure



## Chalky77 (Nov 26, 2014)

Hi
Im about to start building a 8x4x2ft enclosure with a my 6x2x2ft aquarium built into it. I just wanted some advice about the two cross beams on top of the aquarium. I want to make the tank look as natural as possible but the two glass cross beams running right through the middle of the enclosure takes the 'natural' effect away. I know they are there for structural reasons but is there a way I could take them off and use a different method to make it structurally sound?
-A welded metal frame that would sit around the top made out of say 15-20mm angle 2 or 3mm thick? (even it I ran a cross beam or two of 20mm wide metal across the tank this would be better then the two glass panels) I can weld so am happy to use metal.
-20x30mm glass the length of the aquarium siliconed to the front and back panel flush with the top? 
There's a few ideas but would appreciate if anyone else had experience with this and could give me some advice?
At the end of the day if I am happy to leave the glass beams on if its the only option but would love to be able to do it without the them.
Thanks in advance


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## Pythoninfinite (Nov 26, 2014)

You would be unwise to tamper with the glass security straps - if you plan on filling the tank you'll be placing enormous stress on the 6x2 glass panels, and would be unlikely to be able to frame it with suitable tolerances if you use steel to brace it. The potential for steel to flex under the pressure is fairly great (you'd probably need at least 50x50 square tubing to reduce the possibility of flexing , whereas you're relying in the high tensile strength of the glass straps to hold the sides together.

It's a lot of water to deal with if the experiment goes wrong, especially if you're not there when it eventually happens...

Jamie


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## AUSHERP (Nov 26, 2014)

I have decorated and used the bridges as turtle docks before, I wouldn't recommend removing them.
You can make them look natural with the right imagination, a basic layout and potential resident would help for suggestions.


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## book (Nov 26, 2014)

If you plan to fill the tank I would also advise against removing the glass support structure. 
In the photos attached I have removed the entire top glass frame and cross bars from a 6 x 2 x 2 but the tank is not filled to normal capacity. 
I have put a new glass wall in at the four foot mark but the height of the water in this new 'pond' area is less than 16cm. I have still siliconed two pine support bars across the top over this area and the custom top becomes an additional part of the brace around the top. I still would not risk filling the tank completely with my modifications. To hide the pond glass wall I cut plant pictures out of a tank background and glued them on the outside.


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## Pythoninfinite (Nov 27, 2014)

Don't ever rely on silicone as a structural adhesive with wood where high strength is required. Silicone is not designed to, nor will it, create a structural bond with wood of any sort - if placed under stress over long periods it will give way.

Jamie


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## book (Nov 27, 2014)

Pythoninfinite said:


> Don't ever rely on silicone as a structural adhesive with wood where high strength is required. Silicone is not designed to, nor will it, create a structural bond with wood of any sort - if placed under stress over long periods it will give way.
> 
> Jamie


I agree the silicone holding the wood to the glass is a weak point. Really they are little more than shelves for the lizards to jump in and out of the water. I should not have referred to them as support bars as they no longer act as a brace for a fish tank. It can never be filled as a fish tank again. 
I could have put the wood on top of glass straps if I wanted to keep that strength. 
If they do start to give way I will cut the silicone off and screw them to the frame above. 
This tank, with the glass straps removed and without the additional wood cross bars, has been used for many years prior to this conversion. At that time it was used for water skinks with the water and land sections in reverse and had a more standard size hood containing lighting.


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## Chalky77 (Nov 30, 2014)

Thanks for all the replies  the resident will be a water python once it gets to a decent size. I have decided to go against removing the cross beams! Is there a way I could put fake rock over the beams (universal rocks) but somehow put a light between the rock and glass (underneath the rock but still above the glass) so the aquarium part of the enclosure still gets light?
thanks


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## pharskie (Nov 30, 2014)

Use the foam and grout method and make a rock style floor that covers from one side to the edge for the next brace then put a strip of LED lights on the bottom to show off the water section.


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## Stevo2 (Nov 30, 2014)

You could spend extra and go rimless on the fish tank - just requires thicker glass... 19mm would do the job.


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## Pythoninfinite (Dec 1, 2014)

6x2x2s are already heavy - add almost double thickness glass (most are 10mm) and you'll need 10 strong men to lift it!

Jamie


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