# New reptile coming



## bluedragon (Dec 12, 2017)

hi all i just wanted to share that im going to pick up a 2 yo central netted dragon dont have pics but will be on the the updated post so he is male and he is very nice colour so stay updated and im picking him up this Sunday. cant wait
[doublepost=1513041187,1512989595][/doublepost]hi guys ive just received the photos in shed but im told he has very nice colours so these are the pics. and how old do they live?


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## Foozil (Dec 12, 2017)

Awesome little dragon


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## Scutellatus (Dec 12, 2017)

They have a very interesting head compared to most dragons. They almost look deformed with their blunt nasal structure.


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## bluedragon (Dec 12, 2017)

hope fully the seller doesn't bailout on me i paid 150 for him
[doublepost=1513043059,1513043020][/doublepost]


Scutellatus said:


> They have a very interesting head compared to most dragons. They almost look deformed with their blunt nasal structure.


yea they do but thats what makes them cute right
[doublepost=1513043730][/doublepost]


Scutellatus said:


> They have a very interesting head compared to most dragons. They almost look deformed with their blunt nasal structure.


have you got some?


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## Scutellatus (Dec 12, 2017)

No I don't have any. The only dragons I have are Boyds and a Cristatus.


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## bluedragon (Dec 12, 2017)

nice


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## pinefamily (Dec 12, 2017)

I believe they only live 7 or 8 years. Oshkii is the one who will be able to tell you. She keeps western netteds.


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## bluedragon (Dec 12, 2017)

wow but still thats a long time for a little lizard


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## pinefamily (Dec 12, 2017)

Not compared to other lizards.


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## bluedragon (Dec 12, 2017)

true


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## Nero Egernia (Dec 12, 2017)

pinefamily said:


> I believe they only live 7 or 8 years. Oshkii is the one who will be able to tell you. She keeps western netteds.



That's about right. Although I'd say those two were exceptionally long lived. They unfortunately passed away this season. The vast majority of wild Netted Dragons barely live to be one or two years old. Life is unforgiving out there.


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## bluedragon (Dec 13, 2017)

he looks abit small to be a 2yo or is he still growing
[doublepost=1513117957,1513117149][/doublepost]new photos hes just shed his colour is very nice but the camera doesn't pick up the true colour but how big would you think he is he looks small?


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## pinefamily (Dec 13, 2017)

Can't see the photos.


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## bluedragon (Dec 13, 2017)




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## Imported_tuatara (Dec 13, 2017)

can't see it either.


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## Bl69aze (Dec 13, 2017)

bluedragon said:


>


On the second img u need a slash between the [ and img so like [/img ] *no space*


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## bluedragon (Dec 13, 2017)




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## pinefamily (Dec 13, 2017)

Looks very healthy.


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## Imported_tuatara (Dec 13, 2017)

eyes look droopy, dunno if that's aight or not though.


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## bluedragon (Dec 13, 2017)

Imported_tuatara said:


> eyes look droopy, dunno if that's aight or not though.


what do you mean i thought he was looking up
[doublepost=1513126479,1513126385][/doublepost]hey Oshkii is the droopy eyes normal


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## Bl69aze (Dec 13, 2017)

bluedragon said:


> what do you mean i thought he was looking up
> [doublepost=1513126479,1513126385][/doublepost]hey Oshkii is the droopy eyes normal


I can say I never noticed it on the ones I have worked with, but then again I don’t think I would have noticed it, unless someone pointed it out


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## bluedragon (Dec 13, 2017)

to me it looks like it looking at the camera


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## Nero Egernia (Dec 13, 2017)

bluedragon said:


> hey Oshkii is the droopy eyes normal



I've noticed sometimes Western Netted Dragons can get a similar look, where their eyes slightly bulge and stare skywards. It tends to happen with particularly nervous individuals when being handled. Once they relax their gaze returns to "normal". It's not exclusive to sand dragons either as I've seen this in Western Bearded Dragons and Frilled Lizards to some extent. But as I don't know the situation it could be something entirely different.


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## bluedragon (Dec 13, 2017)

would this be life threatening to him im just worried about his eyes as i have never owned one i hope they clear up when i get him


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## Nero Egernia (Dec 13, 2017)

bluedragon said:


> would this be life threatening to him im just worried about his eyes as i have never owned one i hope they clear up when i get him



I'm sure your eyes would bulge too if you were being man handled by a potential predator a million times your size. But as I said, I don't know the situation.


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## bluedragon (Dec 13, 2017)

Oshkii what do you mean you dont what the situation is
[doublepost=1513136551,1513136520][/doublepost]it could be dehydration maybe ?


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## Bluetongue1 (Dec 13, 2017)

I’ve seen this happen with some species of wild caught dragons that appear to 'play dead' to escape once captured. The eyes roll back, the whole body stays still and goes somewhat limp, you tend to relax your grip, then all of a sudden they ‘come back to life’ and bolt or struggle violently to get away. I don’t know if it is related to that, but it might. Either way, as Oshkii suggested, it is likely due to the dragon being ‘nervous’ (i.e. feeling somewhat stressed). If it is not used to being handled, that would be enough to stress it a bit. 

Size-wise it looks good. Adult SV length is 10 – 11cm in these guys. 

In nature, like other sand dragons, this species basically breeds and then dies. However, in captivity their average life span is 5 years or so and occasionally a bit longer, as stated.


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## bluedragon (Dec 13, 2017)

but he is a captive bred and she is a reputable breeder if its healthy and active then the droopy eyes are just probably like a (deformity cosmetic issue) like the skin was stretched when he was younger but i wont effect the health an life span of the animal
[doublepost=1513138557,1513138470][/doublepost]he doesn't look like hes been handled much


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## Imported_tuatara (Dec 13, 2017)

could you pm me the details of the breeder?


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## bluedragon (Dec 13, 2017)

why


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## Imported_tuatara (Dec 13, 2017)

thinking of getting a small-ish colony of netted dragons,hard to come by though.


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## bluedragon (Dec 13, 2017)

doesn't do freight
[doublepost=1513143310,1513143279][/doublepost]to other states


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## Imported_tuatara (Dec 13, 2017)

damn...


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## Bluetongue1 (Dec 13, 2017)

@bluedragon. Dehydrated lizards have sunken eyes.
It does not appear to have “droopy eyes” to me. Here a picture from the net of a wild specimen for comparison.
[ATTACH=full]322227[/ATTACH]
The intended acquisition has good body condition and given that dragons visually locate and pinpoint moving prey items, there is likely no problems with its vision. If you have any reservations bluedragon, you can reassure yourself by explaining your concerns to the breeder and asking about the normal activity of the lizard in its present enclosure. Then check that is in fact the case before you collect it or, if is being posted, once it is released into your enclosure.


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## GBWhite (Dec 13, 2017)

Your critter looks fine to me. I wouldn't be too worried.


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## dragonlover1 (Dec 13, 2017)

I have central netted dragons and that eye looks weird to me


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## Imported_tuatara (Dec 13, 2017)

yeah, i've seen a lot too, and it looks weird.


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## bluedragon (Dec 13, 2017)

Bluetongue1 said:


> @bluedragon. Dehydrated lizards have sunken eyes.
> It does not appear to have “droopy eyes” to me. Here a picture from the net of a wild specimen for comparison.
> [ATTACH=full]322227[/ATTACH]
> The intended acquisition has good body condition and given that dragons visually locate and pinpoint moving prey items, there is likely no problems with its vision. If you have any reservations bluedragon, you can reassure yourself by explaining your concerns to the breeder and asking about the normal activity of the lizard in its present enclosure. Then check that is in fact the case before you collect it or, if is being posted, once it is released into your enclosure.


i have but she said netted dragons its normal for them to have that


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## Bluetongue1 (Dec 14, 2017)

You are one step ahead of me - good. The only thing I perceive as 'not usual' is the eye being rolled upwards to stare into space. As has been pointed out, this is most likely the result of the dragon not being comfortable about being handled. It should not be the case when the lizard is freed in its enclosure. That is something only bluedragon can ascertain.


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## bluedragon (Dec 17, 2017)

finally got him he is very colourful but very skittish will try and get some pics but i dont want to stress him out


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## Foozil (Dec 17, 2017)

Congrats on your new dragon!


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## bluedragon (Dec 18, 2017)

here is dash the pretty boy


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## Scutellatus (Dec 18, 2017)

I don't think it is anything to worry about but that left eye definitely doesn't look right. It looks a little sunken or the eyelids are enlarged.
It is probably just a slight birth defect.


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## pinefamily (Dec 18, 2017)

Very nice dragon. Perhaps a little under done, but I'm sure you'll fix that, Bluedragon.


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## bluedragon (Dec 18, 2017)

pinefamily said:


> Very nice dragon. Perhaps a little under done, but I'm sure you'll fix that, Bluedragon.


what do you mean underdone
[doublepost=1513596470,1513595903][/doublepost]


Scutellatus said:


> I don't think it is anything to worry about but that left eye definitely doesn't look right. It looks a little sunken or the eyelids are enlarged.
> It is probably just a slight birth defect.


i haven't seen him drink but he probably has been but his eyes look weired because i just woke him up thats why


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## pinefamily (Dec 18, 2017)

A little bit underfed.


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## bluedragon (Dec 19, 2017)

pinefamily said:


> A little bit underfed.


yeah im going to go get him some crickets today


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## Flaviemys purvisi (Dec 19, 2017)

bluedragon said:


> yeah im going to go get him some crickets today


Woodies would be better than crickets. More nutritious.


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## pinefamily (Dec 19, 2017)

Aussiepride83 said:


> Woodies would be better than crickets. More nutritious.


While they are better nutritionally, it would be better to start with whatever the breeder was feeding the dragon, to avoid any additional stress as it settles in.
@bluedragon, don't forget to dust with multi-cal, or something similar.


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## bluedragon (Dec 20, 2017)

his diet is greens endive rocket cos lettuce and crickets
[doublepost=1513723936,1513636668][/doublepost]i just bought the crickets and now im breeding them but i fed him yesterday ate 3-4 large ones today i tried feeding him and he just wont take one im he looks like he is scared of them but when i first got him i needed to give him something because i didn't want him to starve so i fed him only 3 mealworms but i think thats why he isnt eating crickets
[doublepost=1513726234][/doublepost]is feeding them mealworms bad because if he doesn't eat than thats what im going to have to feed him


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## pinefamily (Dec 20, 2017)

Mealworms aren't ideal, but fine as a short term feeding measure. When you say you are feeding him, do you mean tong feeding, or are you putting the crickets in the tank?


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## Flaviemys purvisi (Dec 20, 2017)

Mealworms are bird food. I wouldn't give them to any reptile or amphibian.


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## bluedragon (Dec 20, 2017)

in the 


pinefamily said:


> Mealworms aren't ideal, but fine as a short term feeding measure. When you say you are feeding him, do you mean tong feeding, or are you putting the crickets in the tank?


tank


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## pinefamily (Dec 20, 2017)

If the breeder was feeding crickets, all you can do is put a few in the tank and see if he eats them. If not, hold off for two or three days and try again.
Is he eating the greens?


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## Tobe404 (Dec 20, 2017)

Still don't think it would hurt to give Woodies a try.

As in the case with my Monitor that was being fed Crickets from the breeder yet wont touch them since I got him... But will smash down (And i mean smash, they barely have time to hit the ground before Turok has chowed them down.) Woodies no problem.

I know a Monitor isn't a Dragon, but still... Worth a shot I say.

Awesome Dragon bluedragon I'm sure he'll be eating before you know it.


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## bluedragon (Dec 20, 2017)

Tobe404 said:


> Still don't think it would hurt to give Woodies a try.
> 
> As in the case with my Monitor that was being fed Crickets from the breeder yet wont touch them since I got him... But will smash down (And i mean smash, they barely have time to hit the ground before Turok has chowed them down.) Woodies no problem.
> 
> ...


thanks i might start breeding woodies but they use to be common to buy up here but now there very rare to see around here
[doublepost=1513736362,1513736235][/doublepost]


pinefamily said:


> If the breeder was feeding crickets, all you can do is put a few in the tank and see if he eats them. If not, hold off for two or three days and try again.
> Is he eating the greens?


droped a few crickets in there looked at them loosed interest droped a meal worm looked ran and ate it


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## Flaviemys purvisi (Dec 20, 2017)

Woodies are a lot easier to breed than crickets, crickets are time consuming and cannibalistic so you constantly have to separate them at each stage of development and they only live for 12 weeks. Woodies aren't cannibalistic, thrive on neglect and live for 14 months.

I breed both both by the thousands but woodies are by far the best, more nutritious too as they have a much broader diet. Feeder insects are as good as what they're fed and crickets are about as nutritious as cardboard.


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## bluedragon (Dec 22, 2017)

just an update he is eating like a beast on crickets and he is gaining weight fast
will ad photos later


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## Tobe404 (Dec 22, 2017)

bluedragon said:


> just an update he is eating like a beast on crickets and he is gaining weight fast
> will ad photos later



Any idea why he went off Circkets for a bit? I'm glad he's eating regularly now. How many does he have in one feeding?


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## bluedragon (Dec 22, 2017)

he might of went off because of stress he eats 4-7 crickets every 3 days


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## pinefamily (Dec 23, 2017)

The lack of eating could be the settling in process in his new surroundings. I'd be giving him more than that at a feed. He should be eating live food every day at that age, I would have thought.


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## Flaviemys purvisi (Dec 23, 2017)

Throw him in my woody bin for half hour a day. He'll be right.


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## Bl69aze (Dec 23, 2017)

Aussiepride83 said:


> Throw him in my woody bin for half hour a day. He'll be right. View attachment 322366


He’d get lost XD never find him again


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## Flaviemys purvisi (Dec 23, 2017)

Bl69aze said:


> He’d get lost XD never find him again


He wouldn't go far. Be too full. Lol


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## Bl69aze (Dec 25, 2017)

Thought I’d share this guy (or gal), seemed to be ok with holding, wasn’t a fan of me moving my hands around. But I guess this is what normal eyes look like


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## Bluetongue1 (Dec 26, 2017)

It is only to be expected that the lizard is going to take a little while to settle into its new environment, even more so given it is territorial by nature, a male and it is breeding season. So it should have been left for at least a week before trying to feed it. Not doing so only provides additional stress factors for the lizard in terms of disturbance and other occupants it would be better off without until settled in. For the first week or so all that should be done is to spray some water every couple of days where the lizard can access and lick up the droplets.

Given it is adult size, feeding every three days is appropriate. Do dust the food items with a proprietary calcium/vitamin D supplement every 2 out of 3 feeds – not every meal. Only young ones during the first 6 months need to be fed daily.

I can only but agree that woodies are more nutritious. But that is something you introduce only once the new acquisition is well established at feeding as it was with the previous owner. Woodies can get much larger than crickets. The appropriate size to use is roughly the distance between the eyes or, if you like, about half the size of the lizard’s head. Woodies are very good at hiding away in the enclosure if allowed to wander. The best way I know to avoid this and yet allow them to move so that your lizard can pick off individuals one at a time, is to use an appropriate sized bonsai pot as a feed dish - paint the inside lip with Fluon and block the drainage holes. Works a treat.


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## Flaviemys purvisi (Dec 26, 2017)

It's a lot easier to just select however many woodies you want to feed the lizard, for example, 6 and pinch their heads with your feeeding tongs then put them in your lizards enclosre. This will disable the woodies significanly causing them to just flail about and kick but not run and hide or escape. This is what I do to tens of woodies every day prior to throwing them into my turtle aquariums and green tree frog's vivarium. Woodies with pinched heads will survive for days.


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## Bluetongue1 (Dec 26, 2017)

That is a definitely an effective alternative method. However I fail to see how having to behead each is “a lot easier” than just dropping them in the food bowl once it is set up. 


Aussiepride83 said:


> Mealworms are bird food. I wouldn't give them to any reptile or amphibian.


Mealworms cop an undeserved bagging in this country, one which I consider is not warranted. In the US and Europe, where herpetology has been established much longer and much more strongly than here, multitudes of reptiles and amphibians were reared and bred on mealworms alone before other live foods became commercially available. Issues with impaction were seldom heard of, so long as animals were kept well hydrated and omnivores were given some veggies. Same thing with the calcium to phosphorous ratio. You used to provide additional calcium for healthy bone growth and sunlight or vitamin D and it was a non-issue.


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## Flaviemys purvisi (Dec 27, 2017)

Bluetongue1 said:


> Mealworms cop an undeserved bagging in this country, one which I consider is not warranted. In the US and Europe, where herpetology has been established much longer and much more strongly than here, multitudes of reptiles and amphibians were reared and bred on mealworms alone before other live foods became commercially available. Issues with impaction were seldom heard of, so long as animals were kept well hydrated and omnivores were given some veggies. Same thing with the calcium to phosphorous ratio. You used to provide additional calcium for healthy bone growth and sunlight or vitamin D and it was a non-issue.


Except for the comment on sunlight, I disagree.
With turtles, for instance, the bagging of mealworms isn't "undeserved" they cause a real problem which cannot be rectified with calcium supplements. The problem with calcium supplements, like Repti-Cal for example is they cause an extremely rapid rise and elevated level in blood calcium. This in turn causes gout and hypercalcaemia, we avoid this with turtles by simply using calgrit in the aquarium to buffer the water chemistry, specifically (pH, KH and GH). Calgrit does not cause a rapid elevated level of blood calcium levels. Keeping a turtle well hydrated... that's pretty easy, being aquatic and all. Vegges also cannot be offered to turtles as a dietary supplement because many like corn and spinach for example contain oxalic acid which when ingested, binds with calcium forming an insoluble salt, calcium oxalate which builds up in the kidneys causing kidney failure and premature organ failure. Also, peas for example... Peas or any food supplement containing peas should never be fed to turtles OR tortoises as peas are high in phytic acid which binds with calcium and magnesium preventing the turtle/s from metabolising and utilising them even if supplements are added to the diet it will not overcome the problem, but rather create a further deficiency. This is why commercial frozen turtle dinners containing red meats AND vegetables intended for human consumption should NEVER be offered to turtles. A varied natural diet consisting of aquatic plants, aquatic and terrestrial insects, invertebrates and fish are the best diet for an aquatic turtle. No mealworms, instead, earthworms and silkworms should be offered. Both are extremely high in calcium and low in phosphorous and chitin.

Back when the earth was considered flat and the moon was thought to be made of cheese, when people thought "penny turtles" were real, it was also considered relatively safe to feed mealworms to reptiles. It was 'Normal for a turtle to only get to the size of a penny because they were severely stunted/deformed and only survived for a few months until dying at which point people would just acquire a replacement. We know know that turtles grow to the size of a dinner plate when cared for properly and survive for up to 100 years.

I have many books on reptiles and specifically turtles that were published as far back as the 60's and 70's and the mention of mealworms being avoided as a food source for reptiles can be noted in publications from as early as 21 years ago in 1996, (unfortunately that was too late for me). We've come a long way from back in the day when mealworms were "OK." Back in the mid 90's I lost several Green Tree frogs (to impaction) that were fed a varied diet that mealworms were a very big part of. My parents used to drive from our property in the Upper Macleay Valley, south to a place called Wauchope once a month to buy a supply of mealworms from a breeder specifically to accommodate my reptile/amphibian hobby. Little did we know back then but we know now and my 6 GTF's that I keep today never have nor will they ever see a mealworm offered to them.

All I can say is we Live an learn.


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## Bl69aze (Dec 27, 2017)

Turtles are pretty cool  especially mata mata the ugly boys... and Mary river turtles are a nice colour


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## Flaviemys purvisi (Dec 27, 2017)

Bl69aze said:


> Turtles are pretty cool  especially mata mata the ugly boys... and Mary river turtles are a nice colour


Jardine river and Manning River turtles are a lot more coloured than Mary's.


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## pinefamily (Dec 27, 2017)

The only downside to mealworms as a food source that I am aware of is the lower nutritional value. It's a great food source for problem feeder lizards, to get them eating. The lower nutritional value, and the fat content, have been discussed both on here, and other reptile forums, previously. Never heard of impaction being an issue. Perhaps turtles are different in the way they process food.


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## Flaviemys purvisi (Dec 27, 2017)

Hi Pinefamily. It's the chitinous exoskeleton which is difficult to digest that causes the impaction problems. Occasionally Feeding mealworms and or superworms to reptiles when they're newly shed and still white and soft is generally deemed OK. Turtles, frogs and lizards have all been recorded having had problems when fed mealworms. It's most likely a case when the animals have been fed mealworms almost exclusively. Every now and then they wouldn't cause a problem. They do however have the nutrient benefits not dissimilar to cardboard.


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## Bluetongue1 (Dec 27, 2017)

Please note that I deliberately did not mention how calcium was provided, as there are various ways to go about it, depending on the animal, and I wanted to focus on mealworms, not calcium intake. Out of interest what did you mean by the comment “when people thought ‘penny turtles’ were real”? I still think they were real. And how was impaction diagnosis as the cause of death in your Green tree frogs?


Aussiepride83 said:


> Back when the earth was considered flat and the moon was thought to be made of cheese, when people thought "penny turtles" were real, it was also considered relatively safe to feed mealworms to reptiles.


This sentence quoted conveys the message that “considering mealworms relatively safe to feed to reptiles” is on a par with believing the world is flat etc. Scutellatus makes a valid point here. (At the same time I feel the last line of his comment about turtles and attitudes is not valid as stated.) For myself, when a reply belittles comments I have made, it is a strong indicator that the person replying is not able to address and counter those comments factually and rationally. Just as an aside, I have noted through experience that this tactic is most often followed by going off at a tangent to avoid the crux of the issue.

That said, let’s get back on track. You addressed feeding mealworms to turtles and provided one anecdotal account of Green Tree Frogs dying from impaction due to being fed only mealworms. Yet the comment I challenged was “I would not give them to *any reptile or amphibian*”. There remains a lot of reptile groups left unaddressed, just leaving amphibians aside for the moment. The problem here, as I see it, is you have made a sweeping generalisation as result of specific personal experience. Your attitude is warranted in terms of your experience but it does not apply to broader spectrum of herpetology in general. Broad generalisations seldom hold water when inspected more closely.

Just to clarify, I am aware that progress in early herpetological husbandry was a process of trial and error (as it was with most animal groups). Our current and still developing knowledge of biochemical pathways in animals, and biochemical analyses of feed items, is helping to eliminate the errors and allowing us to provide more convenient, but still appropriate, dietary alternatives. It is making it much easier to keep. My comments are therefore not to be interpreted as diminishing that worth in any manner. It is the invalid use and deriving of superficial and spurious conclusions, using some of that data, that I take exception to.


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## Stuart (Dec 27, 2017)

Enough is enough Gentlemen. 

This dialogue is reminiscent of the old APS days whereby respect was a foreign word.


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## Flaviemys purvisi (Dec 27, 2017)

The info about mealworms isn't a Sweeping generalisation concocted by myself, many publications regarding reptiles today and for the last 20 years and all respected reptile vets Australia wide warn of the dangers associated with gut impaction and the phosphorous to calcium ratio when feeding mealworms to reptiles and amphibians.

All good, I'm happy for you to not acknowledge that if you wish, it won't affect my animals at all. Mealworms always will be bird food as far as this black duck is concerned.

Cheers.


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## Bluetongue1 (Dec 28, 2017)

That is effectively what I said, in different words, and I provided a counter argument... but is was not addressed. Unfortunately the speil that you did give was full of many errors.

I do enjoy reading many, if not most of your comments when I get the time to hop on the forum. I hope that continues.

Regards,
Mike


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## Flaviemys purvisi (Dec 28, 2017)

Bluetongue1 said:


> That is effectively what I said, in different words, and I provided a counter argument... but is was not addressed. Unfortunately the speil that you did give was full of many errors.
> 
> I do enjoy reading many, if not most of your comments when I get the time to hop on the forum. I hope that continues.
> 
> ...


OK, I see where your issue with my comment is... _"I would not give them to any reptile or amphibian"_ is my own personal preference, not solely because of the impaction issue alone (which is legit) but because of their nutrient deficient composition and poor calcium to phosphorous ratio. No errors. I have used mealworms to feed many of my inverts though, Tarantulas, scorpions and centipedes. I've also used them as bait (their hard exoskeleton serves a good purpose here in keeping them on the hook much better than softer baits)  to eliminate a whole school of 30+ Spangled Perch - _Leiopotherapon unicolor _with a hand line that were inadvertently introduced to a closed turtle breeding dam via birds with much success. 



Interesting... Spangled Perch and Spangled Drongos both appreciate mealworms...



For herps, you simply Can't go past compost worms and silkworms though... Frogs, turtles, lizards etc will benefit far more from these rather than inferior mealworms. 




Nom nom nom. Silkworms for breakfast.


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## bluedragon (Jan 15, 2018)

just a Q i was at my old work place the other day and i noticed that his central netteds were massive very fat very long there heads were massive i couldnt belive that there 3 yo i hope mine reaches that size i hope he doesnt have a diphormed body growth but he is only 2 i dont know whats going on im just so shocked im mean there the biggest central netteds ive


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## Bl69aze (Jan 15, 2018)

bluedragon said:


> just a Q i was at my old work place the other day and i noticed that his central netteds were massive very fat very long there heads were massive i couldnt belive that there 3 yo i hope mine reaches that size i hope he doesnt have a diphormed body growth but he is only 2 i dont know whats going on im just so shocked im mean there the biggest central netteds ive


The ones I work with aren’t that big either.. maybe 10cm?? Head to tail


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## bluedragon (Jan 15, 2018)

oh ok these ones were 20cm head to tail
[doublepost=1516012863,1516011779][/doublepost]ive been feeding him often but he still isnt getting fatter he has got that skiny look on him


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## vampstorso (Jan 17, 2018)

Perhaps he has parasites? 

Are his droppings properly digested?


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## bluedragon (Jan 17, 2018)

sort of


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## Foozil (Jan 17, 2018)

bluedragon said:


> sort of


Pics?


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## bluedragon (Jan 17, 2018)

vampstorso said:


> Perhaps he has parasites?
> 
> Are his droppings properly digested?


only when he has big crickets
[doublepost=1516156814,1516156744][/doublepost]lately he has been pooping in his water bowel?
[doublepost=1516174640][/doublepost]he just pooped again didnt get a pic sorry but there was a lot of cricket shell but most time his poos are normal
[doublepost=1516182063][/doublepost]what size should a 2yo central be approximately


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## Nero Egernia (Jan 17, 2018)

You'll find that each individual lizard is different in regards to size. Some can either be above, below, or simply of an average size. I've had adult Western Netted Dragons that were 7cm snout to vent length, then I've had a giant at 12.5cm snout to vent length. Not sure how it is with Central Netted Dragons, but in Westerns they should be full grown by the age of two.


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## Bluetongue1 (Jan 19, 2018)

Just to add a few more details to what Nero_Egernia posted… Average maximum SV length is 11 cm for Western and 10 cm for Central. Tail length varies in relation to body length for both, but Centrals average is higher than Western. Average total, maximum length for both species is 28 cm. So to get an individual in excess of this length is not uncommon but quickly becomes less common the longer it is. To get adults less than this size is to be very much expected as the figures quoted are at the maximum end and range down from there.

@bluedragon Have you been weighing your Central? If not, it would probably be wise to do so. Like Pinefamil, I noted the lack of body of condition on it when it first arrived. What concerned me then was why the apparent loss of condition from the photos sent by the breeder compared to the animal when it arrived. Given that it is now feeding well and yet still not putting on weight, I immediately question, like Vampstorso, if it has internal parasites.

Captive bred reptiles that are housed indoors on a substrate that has not been collected from the wild cannot get parasites. However, almost all wild caught reptiles do carry a parasite load. It is possible the breeder introduced a wild caught animal to the captive bred ones and it has infected them. The only way parasites can be confirmed (without opening up the lizard) is through microscopic examination of a fresh faecal sample. At this stage probably best to regularly monitor its weight for the next few weeks and see what happens. Irrespective, it might be worth sending photos of before the acquisition and after, and asking the breeder to explain the loss of body condition apparent in these photos. It might also be worthwhile having talk to your vet and find out the details and costing of a faecal examination. By the way, internal parasites are passed on through faeces, which is why the comment about substrate from the wild. The only other possibility is a that a lizard eats an insect that has recently fed on infected faeces. Either of these is extremely unlikely to happen and you really would have to be dead unlucky. You probably have more chance of winning Lotto lol.


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## bluedragon (Feb 3, 2018)

guess what yep another new reptile coming im getting a baby eastern blue tongue skink next Saturday just about finished his new setup so stay tuned


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## Bluetongue1 (Feb 4, 2018)

How did you go with the Central Netted - did he start putting on body condition?


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## bluedragon (Feb 4, 2018)

Bluetongue1 said:


> How did you go with the Central Netted - did he start putting on body condition?


yes he has gotten fatter and longer and more muscle and he is very healthier


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## dragonlover1 (Feb 4, 2018)

Scutellatus said:


> They have a very interesting head compared to most dragons. They almost look deformed with their blunt nasal structure.


ah come on they are not that ugly,I have a few and think they look beautiful with their aboriginal dot painting skin,mine are from 2 different locales but don't know which?unfortunately.
[doublepost=1517742242,1517742016][/doublepost]


bluedragon said:


> View attachment 322224
> 
> 
> View attachment 322225


this looks like my males,do you know the locale?


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## Bluetongue1 (Feb 5, 2018)

Great to hear that he has come good. It was rather worrying there for a while.

The species is variable in colour and general appearance within a local population. So I doubt it is feasible to pin down its place of origin based on appearance, unless of course there is something unique about the patterning that I am not aware of.

Speaking of appearance, the round head, blunt snout and short legs make these guys look like living plush toy lizards – which is pretty damn cute in my opinion. Add to that the ‘aboriginal dot painting skin’, as mentioned by dragonlover1, and it makes for a pretty special looking reptile. You only have to watch some kid’s cartoons to realise how they relate to characters with relatively large, rounded heads and big round eyes. However, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.


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## bluedragon (Feb 13, 2018)

dragonlover1 said:


> ah come on they are not that ugly,I have a few and think they look beautiful with their aboriginal dot painting skin,mine are from 2 different locales but don't know which?unfortunately.
> [doublepost=1517742242,1517742016][/doublepost]
> this looks like my males,do you know the locale?


no dont know
[doublepost=1518516512][/doublepost]here he is hopefully he is only a couple of weeks old he is very active healthy and good colors i think he might be a caramel eastern bluey im not sure but his skin does look caramel how long until i can breed him how many years until i will keep you updated of his progress in the coming months


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