# Coastal carpet python heating



## Pythonguy1 (Oct 28, 2020)

Hey all, 
So I have my juvenile coastal carpet python in a 120 by 60 by 45 enclosure that's currently being heated by a heat mat and a 50 watt ceramic heat globe. My question is can I get away with using just the heat mat on warm days and only turn on the lamp when it gets cold? 
Any advise would be great 

Josiah.


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## CF Constrictor (Oct 28, 2020)

As long as it stays within its required temperature range , i don't see a problem.


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## Pythonguy1 (Oct 29, 2020)

CF Constrictor said:


> As long as it stays within its required temperature range , i don't see a problem.


Also, what should the ambient temp be? And how do I check it?


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## Herpetology (Oct 29, 2020)

2 heating elements is asking for problems, you only need 1 basking spot of 32c-34c which should be achieved by only 1 method of heating, either a ground basking spot or a perched basking spot

Ambient temp should be lower than the basking spot temps, on hot days u can add frozen bottles of water wrapped in a teatowel to drop the temps a little bit

Sometimes it’s not possible, so u can just turn your heating off on days that are stinking hot, mainly because if something goes wrong with ur thermostat the heats gonna go through the roof

But general rule of thumb, you should be able to hold your hand on the heated area without being uncomfortable

Edit: I personally think people are too caught up on having “the perfect temps” I’ll let my temps go up to 38/39 on stinking hot days for my bredli and they still utilise it and thermoregulate themselves. The important part is they have the option to yeet outta the hot spot to a cooler area


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## Sdaji (Oct 29, 2020)

Herptology said:


> 2 heating elements is asking for problems, you only need 1 basking spot of 32c-34c which should be achieved by only 1 method of heating, either a ground basking spot or a perched basking spot
> 
> Ambient temp should be lower than the basking spot temps, on hot days u can add frozen bottles of water wrapped in a teatowel to drop the temps a little bit
> 
> ...



Strange advice. There's nothing wrong with having two different types of heating, sometimes it's beneficial and sometimes it's essential. Even for someone like me who likes to keep things as simple and minimalistic as possible, I can see that ideally you should have two types of heating for bredli (to be honest I probably wouldn't bother these days, but back when I was breeding bredli they had ambient heating plus basking lamps).

Basking lamps are good for species which naturally bask, and in some cases are essential, such as for many monitor and agamid lizards. They're not necessarily essential for basking forms of Carpet Pythons like bredli and Diamonds, although in the case of Diamonds they'll die young without them so it's borderline. Tropical Carpets like Jungles certainly don't need basking lamps and will do better with floor or ambient heat, and I definitely wouldn't use basking lamps alone for any python and almost no snakes (cold adapted snakes like Tigers and Copperheads would be the exception).

In an absolutely ideal Coastal Carpet setup you'll have both ambient heating and basking lamps. By the way, the word 'basking' refers to sun basking and it makes sense to refer to an artificial basking spot like until a spotlight, but it's not the same thing as a hot spot provided by floor heat etc. This misuse of the term 'basking' has become fairly common and often confuses people into thinking that different forms of heating are equivalent, which in some cases leads to captive reptiles suffering/dying.

If you're resorting to using frozen water bottles to avoid overheating you really need to rethink your situation, and any situation where that's likely to be needed is probably inappropriate for keeping them.

To the OP: Yes, floor heating alone is sufficient for your Coastal Carpet Python. The ceramic element (which is not a lamp) can be replaced with an actual lamp (which is not just better but also much much cheaper), or you can just not use it. You should be using all of your heating devices on thermostats, and if you're using any form of overhead heating it should be supplemental not constant, and should be on a timer.


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## CF Constrictor (Oct 29, 2020)

All i use is a 40watt bulb through a dimmer switch and a timer for aditional day heat and for basking ,and a heat cord underneath through a dimmer 24/7 for ambiant heat.


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## Pythonguy1 (Nov 10, 2020)

Sdaji said:


> To the OP: Yes, floor heating alone is sufficient for your Coastal Carpet Python. The ceramic element (which is not a lamp) can be replaced with an actual lamp (which is not just better but also much much cheaper), or you can just not use it. You should be using all of your heating devices on thermostats, and if you're using any form of overhead heating it should be supplemental not constant, and should be on a timer.


Thanks Sdaji, if I was to use a lamp, what kind of lamp should it be? What wattage? Colored light or not?
Also, How do I raise the ambient temps. And how do I test the ambient temps.
Sorry for all the questions but it would be really helpful as my new job includes me giving advice on stuff like reptile heating and all.


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## CF Constrictor (Nov 10, 2020)

If you can not get ambiant temps high enough , i would get a higher wattage mat or a heat cord . In my opinion a 40 to 60 watt bulb through a dimmer should be fine. I use 2 digital thermometers in each enclosure with 1 probe in the hottest part and the other in the coolest part of each to monitor temps. Dimmer switch's are handy for fine tuning. Hope that is of some help.


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## Pythonguy1 (Nov 11, 2020)

CF Constrictor said:


> If you can not get ambiant temps high enough , i would get a higher wattage mat or a heat cord . In my opinion a 40 to 60 watt bulb through a dimmer should be fine. I use 2 digital thermometers in each enclosure with 1 probe in the hottest part and the other in the coolest part of each to monitor temps. Dimmer switch's are handy for fine tuning. Hope that is of some help.


Thanks CF, I thought that only a bulb could raise the ambient temps, but can a heat mat raise them as well?


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## CF Constrictor (Nov 11, 2020)

If your enclosure has a screen top or a lot of ventilation , you will need a more powerful heat source , or you could limit the ventilation.


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## Sdaji (Nov 11, 2020)

Josiah Rossic said:


> Thanks Sdaji, if I was to use a lamp, what kind of lamp should it be? What wattage? Colored light or not?
> Also, How do I raise the ambient temps. And how do I test the ambient temps.
> Sorry for all the questions but it would be really helpful as my new job includes me giving advice on stuff like reptile heating and all.



Kinda concerns me that someone who is being paid to give advice is asking me for free advice to be paid to pass on.


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## Bluetongue1 (Nov 11, 2020)

I would be concerned if he did not ask about heating. He is clearly trying to learn so he can pass on the correct information. If he was not conscientious then he would simply feed customers any old BS so they feel happy, and he still gets paid.
just to clarify, to bask in something is to take it in, receive its warmth, or bathe in its goodness. While this most commonly includes exposure to sunlight with respect to reptiles, basking under a warm rock, for example, is still a correct usage of the term.

Ambient refers to the immediate surroundings or environment of something. So ambient temperature refers to the air temperature of a given environment or space. It can refer to the general air temperature outside, which is what the weather bureau reports on, or the air temperature in a defined space, such as a room or a reptile enclosure. A measure of confusion often creeps in with reptile keeping because people use the term without qualifying what they are referring to – the outside temperature, the temperature of the room surrounds of an enclosure or the air temperatures inside an enclosure. Given the discussion is focussed on internal heating, I guess one can assume here that it is referring to the air temperature/s inside the enclosure.

For you to better understand heating, it would help a lot to know about the nature of heat and how it can be transferred from one place to another. If you are interested @Josiah I can knock up some simple notes for you. Up to you.

One bit of advice I will provide is that irrespective of the methods used to provide heating, one should use the minimum wattages required to attain the desired temperatures. Thermostats have been known to fail. Reptiles can cope with excessive cold but succumb quickly to excessive heat.


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## CF Constrictor (Nov 12, 2020)

Spot on Bluetounge1 , you have to start somewere and asking for advice from other people with experience is not a bad idea in my opinion. Every one has their own idea on what works best so you should look , listen and learn everything you can in order to form your own opinion of what works best, if you want to give others good advice. You keep snakes yourself so consider that as part of the learning process. Good luck with your new job.


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## Bluetongue1 (Nov 12, 2020)

That is what I thought this forum was about.


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## Sdaji (Nov 12, 2020)

Bluetongue1 said:


> I would be concerned if he did not ask about heating. He is clearly trying to learn so he can pass on the correct information. If he was not conscientious then he would simply feed customers any old BS so they feel happy, and he still gets paid.
> just to clarify, to bask in something is to take it in, receive its warmth, or bathe in its goodness. While this most commonly includes exposure to sunlight with respect to reptiles, basking under a warm rock, for example, is still a correct usage of the term.
> 
> Ambient refers to the immediate surroundings or environment of something. So ambient temperature refers to the air temperature of a given environment or space. It can refer to the general air temperature outside, which is what the weather bureau reports on, or the air temperature in a defined space, such as a room or a reptile enclosure. A measure of confusion often creeps in with reptile keeping because people use the term without qualifying what they are referring to – the outside temperature, the temperature of the room surrounds of an enclosure or the air temperatures inside an enclosure. Given the discussion is focussed on internal heating, I guess one can assume here that it is referring to the air temperature/s inside the enclosure.
> ...



You're missing the point. It doesn't concern me that he's asking, it's a concern that he's already in a position of being paid, and still needing to ask. You're justifying the part which I don't have a problem with and ignoring the part which does concern me.

To give a more extreme example to illustrate the concept, if a practicing surgeon asked a basic anatomy question, indicating that they didn't know what they were doing, I would express a concern. This would not be to suggest they stop learning, it would be to suggest that perhaps they were not currently qualified for their position.
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CF Constrictor said:


> Spot on Bluetounge1 , you have to start somewere and asking for advice from other people with experience is not a bad idea in my opinion. Every one has their own idea on what works best so you should look , listen and learn everything you can in order to form your own opinion of what works best, if you want to give others good advice. You keep snakes yourself so consider that as part of the learning process. Good luck with your new job.



We all need to start from somewhere, but if you're already being paid to be advisor, you're beyond the point where you should be described as needing to start somewhere. I have all the time in the world to help newbies and I'm quite well known for this; I have no problem with people who know little to nothing and are keen to learn, I find them rewarding to help.


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## CF Constrictor (Nov 12, 2020)

Is he infact being payed to be an advisor ?


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## Bluetongue1 (Nov 12, 2020)

Excuse me, but I fail to see any realistic parallels between a surgeon and a sales assistant in a pet shop.
The OP stated: “Sorry for all the questions but it would be really helpful as my new job includes me giving advice on stuff like reptile heating and all.” We don’t even know if this is a full time position or only part time to make a few bucks. Irrespective, the guy has only just started in the job. I’d reckon that it is highly likely that his employer has put it on him to be an advisor on reptiles as pets because he keeps a couple of snakes. I don’t really know if that is the case but I for one am happy to give him the benefit of the doubt, given what I have read. What I do know is that despite his embarrassed, he has opened up about needing help in the new circumstances that he now finds himself.

While I am at it I may as well provide the info on heat transfer that I offered earlier…
What is heat? Heat is a form of energy which allows the atoms and molecules in a substance to move faster. In other words, it increases the kinetic energy (energy of movement) of the particles of matter in a substance. Heat energy can be transferred in one of three ways…
*Conduction:* This is where heat energy is passed through a substance from particle to particle. Conduction occurs most effectively in solids and least of all in gases. Some solids, like metals, are good conductors while other solids are poor conductors of heat (good insulators).
*Convection:* This is where heat is carried by particles that can move from one place to another, as in liquids and gases (fluids). Heating causes a substance it to expand and become less dense. This lighter substance will then float upwards on the denser surrounding substance, which is why ‘hot air rises’. An upward moving stream like this is called a ‘convection current’.
*Radiation:* Energy can take the form of electromagnetic radiation (EMR), which is an EM wave that can travel through empty space. There are various types of EMR as a result of differing wavelengths. Those wavelengths associated with heat transfer are in the light spectrum - both visible and non-visible (IR). When infra-red and visible light radiation are absorbed by an object, it causes it to heat up. Visible light is often reflected, rather than absorbed, and so tends to have much less of a heating effect.

*A note on ventilation. *Enclosures require ventilation. Given the amounts of oxygen and carbon dioxide in air and the low breathing rate of reptiles most of the time, this is not about getting fresh air to them. My opinion is that it is more about stopping excessive build-up of humidity within the enclosure. However, the size and positioning of ventilation can also have a major influence on the maintenance of the desired temperature gradient. As a consequence, when deciding how to heat an enclosure, the effects of the existing ventilation on air flow need to borne in mind.


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## CF Constrictor (Nov 12, 2020)

Spot on once more BT1 , and the info you have provided is easy to understand and very helpful. Guess i just assumed he got a job in a petshop that caters to reptiles , and just wants to be able to give sound advice too. If that is the case , what qualifications do you actualy need to give advice in a petshop ?


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## Pythonguy1 (Nov 12, 2020)

Sdaji said:


> it's a concern that he's already in a position of being paid, and still needing to ask.


FYI the original reptile guy doesn't work there anymore, so now I'm the one giving advice about reptiles. And so far I haven't had any problems answering peoples questions. The reason I'm asking is that I want to be ready should these questions arise. And I'm not about to give anyone advice that I'm not certain about. I like to be honest.


CF Constrictor said:


> Is he infact being payed to be an advisor ?


Good to have some one who gets the picture. I am not being paid to be an advisor, I am being paid to work there which includes many more things than talking to customers.


Bluetongue1 said:


> I would be concerned if he did not ask about heating. He is clearly trying to learn so he can pass on the correct information. If he was not conscientious then he would simply feed customers any old BS so they feel happy, and he still gets paid.
> just to clarify, to bask in something is to take it in, receive its warmth, or bathe in its goodness. While this most commonly includes exposure to sunlight with respect to reptiles, basking under a warm rock, for example, is still a correct usage of the term.


Thanks mate 


CF Constrictor said:


> Good luck with your new job.


Thanks CF 
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Bluetongue1 said:


> One bit of advice I will provide is that irrespective of the methods used to provide heating, one should use the minimum wattages required to attain the desired temperatures. Thermostats have been known to fail. Reptiles can cope with excessive cold but succumb quickly to excessive heat.


 I like to use heat mats without thermostats under a good layer of bedding so that the temperature doesn't get too high. It works pretty well. I'm always checking the temperature to make sure that it's not to high.
What I don't understand is the amount of people who are so against me not using thermostats. I mean, it works for me and my snakes so why should I do anything different? 
Once again thanks for all your help Bluetongue1


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## Bluetongue1 (Nov 13, 2020)

*CF Constrictor* for the feedback. Your feedback is very much appreciated, thanks. After all, communication is the name of the game.

@*Josiah Rossic*. Just to round off your understanding of heat, there is one more important property that you need to know about. While it seems obvious, knowing the mechanics of it allows one to apply it much more widely: _Heat will tend to move from warmer to cooler matter (obviously until all the matter is at the same temperature)_. At the temperatures we normally experience day to day, this transfer of that heat involves *infra-red radiation* being given off and /or *conduction*. If convection is involved, it only serves to more quickly distribute the heat. This explains the following…
· An object that is warmer than its surroundings gives off IR radiation. For example, IR cameras that allow police to follow suspects in the dark.
· Why reptiles lose heat in cooler conditions and can gain heat by lying on or near to something warmer than them.
· A non-moving reptile will sooner or later attain the same temperature as the air and substrate surrounding it. So positioning of hides should allow for this.
· Cooler air in contact with a warm surface, or other heat source, takes in heat. As the air heats up it expands and becomes lighter, so it floats above the cooler, dense surrounding air, which moves in to take its place (= convection current).
· In a sealed container with a convection current operating, the current will only continue until all the air in the container is the same temperature as the heat source itself. 
· Add appropriately positioned ventilation to the above container, which lets warmed air out and cooler air in, and you can create a temperature gradient in the container. Note that in so doing the air above the heat source will never reaches the same temperature as the heat source itself.
· Many wavelengths of IR can pass freely through various types of glass, so all-glass enclosures are prone to losing heat. 
· Enclosures with wire mesh tops are prone to losing heat rapidly through the unrestricted convection these allow.

I haven’t mentioned how to go about heating an enclosure. There is more way to skin a cat (I like that expression for some reason…) and opinions will differ. But at least now you should now know the elements that need to be taken into account and why – ventilation (size and positioning), air temperature surrounding the enclosure, potential sources of heat loss from the enclosure (including things like gaps between sliding glass doors), heat source (type, positioning, wattage) and the need for a thermostat or not. It does tend to be trial and error at fiirst until you gain suffcient experience to know what is likely to do what you want it to do before even trying it.


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## Pythonguy1 (Nov 16, 2020)

Bluetongue1 said:


> *CF Constrictor* for the feedback. Your feedback is very much appreciated, thanks. After all, communication is the name of the game.
> 
> @*Josiah Rossic*. Just to round off your understanding of heat, there is one more important property that you need to know about. While it seems obvious, knowing the mechanics of it allows one to apply it much more widely: _Heat will tend to move from warmer to cooler matter (obviously until all the matter is at the same temperature)_. At the temperatures we normally experience day to day, this transfer of that heat involves *infra-red radiation* being given off and /or *conduction*. If convection is involved, it only serves to more quickly distribute the heat. This explains the following…
> · An object that is warmer than its surroundings gives off IR radiation. For example, IR cameras that allow police to follow suspects in the dark.
> ...


Thanks Bluetongue1, this info helped me out a lot. Since I don't have a thermostat my mats are as warm as they can get however all my enclosures have a reasonable amount of ventilation so I don't have to worry about my enclosure getting to warm.
Once again this really gave me the answers I was looking for. Thanks mate.


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## Kyle Hamilton (Nov 16, 2020)

Low wattage heat chord about three strands under tubs about 5 watts works well for juveniles an hatchlings, adults in a large cage a 25 watt blue or red globe on one end is plenty ,no thermostat gives gradual fluctuations that are warmer in summer and cooler in winter.


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## Bluetongue1 (Nov 16, 2020)

@*Josiah Rossic*. Heating is arguably the most important thing to get right keeping. That I was able to answer your questions is great. I know the reply was long-winded but providing you with understanding and examples requires that. Once you get a handle on things, it just makes simple sense. What I know of you is your desire to understand the whys and wherefores, rather than simply be told to do this or to do that. For that reason I am happy to put in the extra effort in to help you achieve that understanding. It makes an old man feel useful again, haahaa. For that I thank you! It also gives others who read threads, but don’t post, the opportunity to develop understandings, if they so wish. And I figure if they don’t, they can quickly skip the post because I let them know what coming in the intro.


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## Pythonguy1 (Nov 17, 2020)

Bluetongue1 said:


> @*Josiah Rossic*. Heating is arguably the most important thing to get right keeping. That I was able to answer your questions is great. I know the reply was long-winded but providing you with understanding and examples requires that. Once you get a handle on things, it just makes simple sense. What I know of you is your desire to understand the whys and wherefores, rather than simply be told to do this or to do that. For that reason I am happy to put in the extra effort in to help you achieve that understanding. It makes an old man feel useful again, haahaa. For that I thank you! It also gives others who read threads, but don’t post, the opportunity to develop understandings, if they so wish. And I figure if they don’t, they can quickly skip the post because I let them know what coming in the intro.


Glad I can make you feel useful again . You've been a pretty big mentor for me on this forum


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