# Enclosure Design - Thoughts?



## Blackstik (Sep 12, 2013)

Hi All,

It's time for my Yearling jungle and 2 yr old Woma to get new houses, and I've decided I want to get it just right for them. My fiancee's dad is a builder and he's particularly good with wood, so we are going to get him to build us one as a Christmas present. I'm not really very good with handyman-y type stuff so I'll help him where I can, but that won't be much. Anyway, I've been playing around trying to work out some dimensions for the enclosures and I think I've knocked up a fairly decent plan, I was just wondering if I could get some people who know more than me about building these kinds of things to give me some feedback?

I've gone with LED lighting strips and radiant heat panels because my woma seems to think he is arboreal, I occasionally see him wrapped around the cage around the ceramic heat emitter, and sometimes around the compact fluorescent globe I use for lighting and I worry he might fall and hurt himself, or break the light globe. I also think it's a bit more aesthetically pleasing to get rid of the globes dangling down into the enclosure, but that's just me. Also there's the lower power consumption and heat emission from the LEDs. I got the advice about the heating panel size/placement directly from one of the guys at proherp when I emailed, they were very helpful and got back to me right away, even on a Saturday!

There will obviously be branches in the Jungle enclosure, and some decorative stuff, plus multiple hides etc in both but I thought I'd get the basics ironed out before I move on to worrying that.

I'd love to get some some tips and advice on what could be improved. I'd also like to know where I should place the vents, as I've seen conflicting advice as to whether the higher one should be at the warm end or the cool end of the enclosures.I'm looking forward to hearing what you guys think.
Cheers,
Blacky


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## Blackstik (Sep 12, 2013)

Also, I may have some measurements that are a bit out, like I said, I'm not good with handyman type stuff!!


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## Jackrabbit (Sep 12, 2013)

Glass measurements need to be 25mm wider each to allow overlap and about 5-8mm shorter to allow them to slot into the running track.

have thought about making the bottom have a single piece of glass on a hinge to allow easier access for cleaning? 35cm isn't alot to try ans squeeze through. alternatively make it once piece that slides in front of the storage area for full access.


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## Blackstik (Sep 12, 2013)

Jackrabbit said:


> Glass measurements need to be 25mm wider each to allow overlap and about 5-8mm shorter to allow them to slot into the running track.
> 
> have thought about making the bottom have a single piece of glass on a hinge to allow easier access for cleaning? 35cm isn't alot to try ans squeeze through. alternatively make it once piece that slides in front of the storage area for full access.



Ah yeah, I hadn't thought of the glass overlap too much. I will add a few more millimeters onto the glass width. in regards to the height, I had planned to have the glass runners hidden by another piece of timber. Hard to explain but on my current enclosure, the glass runner are, for example on a piece of timber that's, say, 10mm off the floor of the enclosure. Then there is another piece in front of it that's just a little bit higher, to just hide the runners from sight unless you're right there looking at them, just neatening it up a bit. 
I had considered the hinged door, but really wanted sliding. When I clean the tanks I take the glass out of the runners altogether anyway so it shouldn't be too much of an issue (in theory!)
Cheers for your advice


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## Tinky (Sep 12, 2013)

I found that glass was the most expensive part of my enclosure. Next time I will try to source cheap glass, (ie out of an old cabinet etc) then design the rest of enclosure around the glass size.

Will also have raised tracks in next build, so that they don't clog up with substrate.

Cheers.


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## andynic07 (Sep 12, 2013)

I think the glass is quite big for a sliding system with the weight and friction and you may need runners with balls.


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## Virides (Sep 12, 2013)

Take into consideration that the taller panels of glass won't open as desired due to the positioning of your hand and the physics of the panels. In the above image, Eg1 is your worst scenario and given the dimensions of your enclosure with it probably being on the ground will mean you would need to kneel down and use something more like Eg3 or 4. You essentially won't be able to stand and easily open the panel without having the panel want to rotate as you slide it. As mentioned you can over come this with rollers but that adds considerable expense. 

Your drawing is not to scale and the actual dimensions of the glass are close to square, so rather consider the finger grip/hand position you desire most and ensure it suffices either Eg3/4.

(This is based on what we experienced during testing of a track we designed)


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## daz26 (Sep 12, 2013)

hey mate I have an enclosure of around the same size as what your planning my glass is 1200 high 600 wide and it slides just fine pushing from the top in just standard tracks no need for rollers


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## crocodile_dan (Sep 13, 2013)

Mobility would be something to consider, if you think it is conceivable you will have to move this unit then assess the overall dimensions and weight. While it will fit through a standard door as is, corners may be an issue and unless on wheels it will require some strong movers. So possibly make it 3 separate units, or if it is staying in one location long term then it wouldn't be an issue, also consider ease of transport, at that size a ute/trailer would be necessary.


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## Blackstik (Sep 13, 2013)

crocodile_dan said:


> Mobility would be something to consider, if you think it is conceivable you will have to move this unit then assess the overall dimensions and weight. While it will fit through a standard door as is, corners may be an issue and unless on wheels it will require some strong movers. So possibly make it 3 separate units, or if it is staying in one location long term then it wouldn't be an issue, also consider ease of transport, at that size a ute/trailer would be necessary.



Thanks Dan, we are actually in the process of building a new house so it will be in the one location long term. Also the place in the house we are planning on putting it is in a straight line from the front door so corners aren't a problem either. I am considering putting something on the bottom to allow it to be moved around easier though


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## Lawra (Sep 13, 2013)

Blackstik said:


> Thanks Dan, we are actually in the process of building a new house so it will be in the one location long term. Also the place in the house we are planning on putting it is in a straight line from the front door so corners aren't a problem either. I am considering putting something on the bottom to allow it to be moved around easier though



Have you considered building it into the walls in your new home?


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## Blackstik (Sep 13, 2013)

Lawra said:


> Have you considered building it into the walls in your new home?



Nah, we hadn't thought of that, but it would certainly be cool! Might be worth having a look into, but I guess if we decide to sell the house it might be a bit divisive for potential buyers


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## Lawra (Sep 13, 2013)

Blackstik said:


> Nah, we hadn't thought of that, but it would certainly be cool! Might be worth having a look into, but I guess if we decide to sell the house it might be a bit divisive for potential buyers



There is another thread on here (or maybe just a pic?) of someone who built an enclosure into the wall in their home. If anything I believe it would add value, as if done well it can be used as a display cabinet for anything not just your herp.

Edit: I found it 

http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/diy-zone-5392/wall-enclosure-195387/


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## Blackstik (Sep 14, 2013)

This is a scale design I've done having a play around on google's sketchup software, i think it looks pretty good. I've decided to go with the hinged door down the bottom, and now we have the option to use the other storage to make another enclosure if the need arises (woohoo!! RSP, here I come!)


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## Virides (Sep 15, 2013)

We have the perfect finger grips for this enclosure - available from Shop | Virides

Finger grips allow you to easily open a panel of glass while greatly reducing (if not eliminating) the occurrence of hand/finger smudges - meaning less cleaning.

The Spilota (Jungle Python)





The Aspidites (Woma/BHP)





And for the handles on the doors there are The Morelia


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## Blackstik (Sep 15, 2013)

Virides, I've already got some of your finger grips on my current enclosure, and love them to bits, I'll definitely be getting more of them for this enclosure! In fact, I wanted to add them onto the model, but I couldn't draw them well enough! Do you, or have you considered doing the Morelia handles in a brushed/stainless finish rather than just in the black?


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## Virides (Sep 15, 2013)

Blackstik said:


> Virides, I've already got some of your finger grips on my current enclosure, and love them to bits, I'll definitely be getting more of them for this enclosure! In fact, I wanted to add them onto the model, but I couldn't draw them well enough! Do you, or have you considered doing the Morelia handles in a brushed/stainless finish rather than just in the black?



We actually had these originally in stainless but the cost to produce the handles effectively doubled. We have since come up with a new way to create the handles which are set to make them cheaper. However we have to wait for some money to come in so we can carry out the first batch. Here is a sneak peek at what they would look like:







This would be made from components that would need to be put together but essentially it means no welding required which made up about 80% of the cost to produce.


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## Blackstik (Sep 16, 2013)

Virides said:


> We actually had these originally in stainless but the cost to produce the handles effectively doubled. We have since come up with a new way to create the handles which are set to make them cheaper. However we have to wait for some money to come in so we can carry out the first batch. Here is a sneak peek at what they would look like:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Wow, that looks really cool! I had a feeling that cost would have been a big factor in not having a stainless finish available, but I really like the look of that design you've got there


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## Jackrabbit (Sep 16, 2013)

I've got a pair of the stainless steel handles and I don't recall them being too expensive. Not when they enhance the look of your enclosure.


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## Virides (Sep 16, 2013)

Jackrabbit said:


> I've got a pair of the stainless steel handles and I don't recall them being too expensive. Not when they enhance the look of your enclosure.



They used to be $25 each then they were $19 for the factory seconds. It after we sold out of these that our manufacturer revised the pricing (when we were asking for a quote to get a new batch done) that the price went from $15.30 cost to $36 cost... Meaning we would have to sell per handle about $50 each. 

This new method will cost (approximately), you the customer, about $10-$15 each... a considerable reduction.


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## RSPcrazy (Sep 16, 2013)

Blackstik said:


> This is a scale design I've done having a play around on google's sketchup software, i think it looks pretty good. I've decided to go with the hinged door down the bottom, and now we have the option to use the other storage to make another enclosure if the need arises (woohoo!! RSP, here I come!)



I would suggest adding a support rail along the top of the enclosure.
like in this photo.





This rail gives the enclosure much more support and prevents the top timber from bowing over time and making it hard to open the class. It is also a great spot to place your lighting, as it hides the fitting, giving a overall better quality look to your enclosure.

Heres a photo of the hidden light fitting.


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## Virides (Sep 16, 2013)

This is an adaption plate that will allow the handle to be affixed to enclosures that have tempered glass frameless doors. Two pieces of acrylic sandwiched together which are then affixed to the handle and affixed to the glass with double sided tape. Since you can't drill tempered glass, this is the only way to affix these handles.


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