# Thermostat + Globe ?



## Variety (Mar 6, 2016)

My cousin picked up a combo setup today which included a "Repti-Zoo" thermostat aswell as a heat globe and fitting. The globe is turning on/off every 5 minutes(as it should) and i was wondering if it would be better to run a mat through a thermostat ?

I was told years ago to avoid using globes through standard thermostats as it can stress the python aswell as wear a globe out fairly quick due to the constant on/off.

Cheers in advance


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## pinefamily (Mar 6, 2016)

The life of the globe is shortened significantly with a thermostat, depending on the temp it is set at, and the wattage of the globe. 
A better option is a CHE.


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## Variety (Mar 7, 2016)

pinefamily said:


> The life of the globe is shortened significantly with a thermostat, depending on the temp it is set at, and the wattage of the globe.
> A better option is a CHE.



went and bought her a 150w ceramic heat emitter today thanks for the help


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## Wokka (Mar 7, 2016)

150 watt has the potential to create a lot of heat if the thermostat stays on. I don't know what or where you are keeping but as a general rule only use the minimum wattage required to achieve the required heat.


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## Pauls_Pythons (Mar 7, 2016)

Wokka said:


> 150 watt has the potential to create a lot of heat if the thermostat stays on. I don't know what or where you are keeping but as a general rule only use the minimum wattage required to achieve the required heat.



Agreed. I think this might be why the light was on/off all the time. Not saying there is anything wrong with CHE but they don't give you any idea if they are working or not. With a globe at least it is easy to know if they are working.


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## pinefamily (Mar 7, 2016)

That's why people should invest in an IR temp gun.


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## Dragon_77 (Mar 7, 2016)

l myself have been using these clear reflector ligh bulbs and red party light bulbs to provide warmth to all my captive reptiles since 1989, has you can see they a available in different wattages & and the reflector light bulbs a available 2 different sizes, R64 & R80, the R80 a available in 60-75-100watt and the R64 a available in 40-60watt, and you can get them in Edison Screw & Bayonet.

They are far more cheaper to buy than the ones you get with Reptiles printed on the packaging, the best brand to get a Crompton and GE, and they can last for months but l have notice the 60watt red light bulbs tend to only last for 1 to 4 weeks, where the 25 & 40watt red light bulbs can last for months, these red party light bulbs a only available in Bayonet.

You can buy these from Middendorp electrical supplie outlet or Bunnings.

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Has you can see here in my Olive Python enclosures l use 1 x 75watt clear reflector light bulb during the day, and at night time l use 2 x 40watt red party light bulbs.


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## Wallo (Mar 7, 2016)

You can perfectly use infrared and basking globes with a dimming thermostat as the dimming thermostat is not as harsh on the globes as an On/Off Thermostat. On/Off thermostats are great for heat mats and cords - I have been able to get 6 months out of my globes consistanly with the Microclimate Evo Thermostat set on dimming


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## arevenant (Mar 7, 2016)

Yeah, the problem here is you have an on/off thermostat not a dimming thermostat.
I get a good 8-10 months with globes on my microclimate dimmers.


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## Burgo89 (Mar 7, 2016)

I have on/off thermostats on 100w infra red globes and get a good 12 months out of them. (Probably jinxed it now) :?


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## Wokka (Mar 8, 2016)

In the cage setup shown earlier I am surprised there are no light cages to prevent the snake contacting the globe. Animals can wrap around the bulb when it is off and cool, and then when the globe turns on, it can fry the animal. I accept that Dragon appears to have plenty of experience and not all snake s will burn themselves, but as a general rule some sort of barrier should be provided to prevent direct contact with the heat source.


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## Dragon_77 (Mar 8, 2016)

Hi Wokka, Yes l agree 100% with you that all Reptile enclosure with heat lamps built inside them just like mine are, should have light cages to help prevent the Snakes, from wrapping themselfs around the light bulbs.

The reason why mine don't have any light cages installed is because none of my enclosures have Thermostat connected to them, this stops the lights from turning on & off. so there is no chance of my Olive Python's from wrapping themselfs around the light bulbs.

The way l control the temperature inside my enclosures is by using a lower wattage light bulb, during the day l use a 60watt clear reflector light bulb, and at night time l use 2 x 40watt red party light bulbs during the summer months, but in winter time l use 1 x 60watt and 1 x 40watt red light bulbs.

The 60watt clear reflector light bulb is connected to a dimmer so l can turn it down without turning it of or changing the reflector light bulb.

Not once have any of my Olive Python's tried to wrap themself around any of the light bulbs day or night, like you said in your post l Dragon_77 ( Les ), have plenty of experience in reptile keeping which l do but l still am learning just like you and any other Reptile keeper is.

l got my first pet lizard which was a Eastern Blue-Tongue in 1975, and got my first snake which was a Children's Python in 1989, so that is to let you and others out there know how long l have been keeping Reptiles for.


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## littlemay (Mar 8, 2016)

Dragon_77 said:


> The reason why mine don't have any light cages installed is because none of my enclosures have Thermostat connected to them, this stops the lights from turning on & off. so there is no chance of my Olive Python's from wrapping themselfs around the light bulbs.



Forgive me, this may be my lack of experience showing through, but why would not having a thermostat prevent the snake from coming into contact with the hot globe?


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## SKYWLKR (Mar 8, 2016)

I have used all sorts of methods for heating over the last 20 years keeping turtles, lizards and snakes. Never had a lizard or turtle wrap itself around a light bulb but definitely have had snakes wrap themselves around them with or without bulb cages. I have always been cautious especially knowing that snakes can have a habit of wrapping around a bulb or sitting too long on a heat mat slowly cooking themselves (even though they may not realise it until burns happen). So for that reason I use a combination of ceramic bulbs and incandesent globes (no more that 40 or 50watts, enclosed in cages, some with dimming thermostats and some without depending on the vivarium size. And always using an infrared thermometer to check on temps (Jaycar quite often have these on special). They are an awesome investment to have (and can be used for many other things too!)


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## Dragon_77 (Mar 8, 2016)

l have only ever had 2 python's that got some burn marking on their body from the heat lamps that l use in my enclosures, and that was a Centralian Carpet & Olive Python.

And l never ever have used heating devices such has heat ( tape - mat - cord ), inside any of my indoor Reptile enclosure, underneath my enclosure at floor level that l keep one of my adult Olive Python's in, there is a 50watt radiant heat panel, that provides a hot spot on the floor of that enclosure at the same end has the light bulbs, cause Olive Python's being a ground dweller do rely on some warmth from the ground.

If you look closely at the bottom enclosure and look at the wheel on the left, just to the right of the wheel underneath you can see the radiant heat panel it has blue tape on it, and on top of the enclosure is my adult male Olive Python, who often spends hours on top of that plastic container to keep warm from the red light bulbs inside the enclosure that create a warm spot on top, You can also see my adult female Olive Python in the draw and resting her head on top of the chair.


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## Wally (Mar 8, 2016)

Dragon_77 said:


> The reason why mine don't have any light cages installed is because none of my enclosures have Thermostat connected to them, this stops the lights from turning on & off. so there is no chance of my Olive Python's from wrapping themselfs around the light bulbs.



There is every chance of your Olive wrapping itself around an unprotected bulb regardless of what you think.


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## Murph_BTK (Mar 12, 2016)

Help i am having issues with my heat lamp (globes) i bought a 100watt the other day and installed it only to have it blow.. i asked the pet store and they said if i used my bare hand, the oils could cause it to crack.. oh... okay i thought so i bought a more expensive different brand 150watt and its lasted a day. Same results. I didn't come into contact with the globe at all.. a cheap bigW globe lasted for ages in it so its not the ceramic socket... should i take it back and complain? Or am i doing something wrong


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## Wally (Mar 12, 2016)

If you're talking about edison type screw in globes do yourself a favour and go to bunnings and buy the Phillips brand bulb. Lasts significantly longer for a fraction of the price.


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## Murph_BTK (Mar 12, 2016)

Wally said:


> If you're talking about edison type screw in globes do yourself a favour and go to bunnings and buy the Phillips brand bulb. Lasts significantly longer for a fraction of the price.


Friggin champ mate!! I have a 75watt in for now.. be off to the hardware store 2moro and will grab some.


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## Wally (Mar 12, 2016)

Murph_BTK said:


> Friggin champ mate!! I have a 75watt in for now.. be off to the hardware store 2moro and will grab some.



Pet/Reptile shops generally try and make their cash on bulbs, most of which are cheap imported rubbish. Much better value if you look elsewhere.


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## pinefamily (Mar 12, 2016)

Wally said:


> Pet/Reptile shops generally try and make their cash on bulbs, most of which are cheap imported rubbish. Much better value if you look elsewhere.


And shipped in from overseas possibly getting damaged in transit.


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## chilli-mudcrab (Mar 12, 2016)

If anyone's interested I recently got into using the "antique " globes they great and put out a fair amount of heat sorry I can't post pictures as my iPhone doesn't let me access this site anymore for some reason


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## JungleBoots (Mar 13, 2016)

Murph_BTK said:


> Help i am having issues with my heat lamp (globes) i bought a 100watt the other day and installed it only to have it blow.. i asked the pet store and they said if i used my bare hand, the oils could cause it to crack.. oh... okay i thought so i bought a more expensive different brand 150watt and its lasted a day. Same results. I didn't come into contact with the globe at all.. a cheap bigW globe lasted for ages in it so its not the ceramic socket... should i take it back and complain? Or am i doing something wrong


Last year I was having the same issue. The shop I purchased from actually swapped the bulb over for a new one, and mentioned that I should try using a surge protector. I probably had 2-3 bulbs die on me in a few months. Since getting the surge protector I haven't had one go.


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## Murph_BTK (Mar 13, 2016)

Cheers jungleboots i picked one up and 6 globes just now


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## Murph_BTK (Mar 14, 2016)

Another question for the informative people on here. Thermostats and 4' flouro tubes (for a day and night cycle) anyone recommend brands/types and or where to shop, my local pet store (whom i try and support) is fisting me big time on reptile gear and my patients is worn thin  so i am looking else where. I live in Caloundra QLD and am willing to travel 2hrs to get to a store/place that can help me.. peace


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## pinefamily (Mar 14, 2016)

UV fluoro's or ordinary?


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## Murph_BTK (Mar 14, 2016)

pinefamily said:


> UV fluoro's or ordinary?


UV mate. (Sorry i should have specified)


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## Wally (Mar 14, 2016)

pinefamily said:


> And shipped in from overseas possibly getting damaged in transit.



Likely there's some truth to that. Also likely that most globes in oz are imports apart from a few. I suspect the Phillips ones are just made to a higher standard.


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## pinefamily (Mar 14, 2016)

Wally said:


> Likely there's some truth to that. Also likely that most globes in oz are imports apart from a few. I suspect the Phillips ones are just made to a higher standard.


And shipped better too.

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Murph_BTK said:


> UV mate. (Sorry i should have specified)


You need to shop around for the best price. Check out some of the online places that sell them; often their prices are better than your local pet/reptile shops. Also check out aquarium shops, they sometimes are cheaper than the reptile ones.


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## Wallo (Mar 14, 2016)

Murph_BTK said:


> Another question for the informative people on here. Thermostats and 4' flouro tubes (for a day and night cycle) anyone recommend brands/types and or where to shop, my local pet store (whom i try and support) is fisting me big time on reptile gear and my patients is worn thin  so i am looking else where. I live in Caloundra QLD and am willing to travel 2hrs to get to a store/place that can help me.. peace



Have you tried the pet shop in Nambour next to Supercheap - awesome for reptile and very knowledgable
Also The New Microclimate Evo Thermostat is sensational for setting fluro on Timer cycle

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Murph_BTK said:


> Another question for the informative people on here. Thermostats and 4' flouro tubes (for a day and night cycle) anyone recommend brands/types and or where to shop, my local pet store (whom i try and support) is fisting me big time on reptile gear and my patients is worn thin  so i am looking else where. I live in Caloundra QLD and am willing to travel 2hrs to get to a store/place that can help me.. peace



Have you tried the pet shop in Nambour next to Super Cheap Auto - awesome and well stocked with reptile products
Also the new Microclimate Evo is sensational for UV timer - cant go wrong


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## pinefamily (Mar 14, 2016)

Why not just plug the UV into an ordinary timer?


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## Murph_BTK (Mar 14, 2016)

Wallo said:


> Have you tried the pet shop in Nambour next to Supercheap - awesome for reptile and very knowledgable
> Also The New Microclimate Evo Thermostat is sensational for setting fluro on Timer cycle
> 
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> ...


Nah mate i haven't and to be honest i have never heard of them. The costs of getting a tetanus shot after visiting nambour might out weight the savings . Nah i shall check them out next time i am home. Cheers for the info


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## Wallo (Mar 14, 2016)

Murph_BTK said:


> Nah mate i haven't and to be honest i have never heard of them. The costs of getting a tetanus shot after visiting nambour might out weight the savings ������. Nah i shall check them out next time i am home. Cheers for the info



Thats Gold


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## SKYWLKR (Mar 14, 2016)

Murph_BTK said:


> Another question for the informative people on here. Thermostats and 4' flouro tubes (for a day and night cycle) anyone recommend brands/types and or where to shop, my local pet store (whom i try and support) is fisting me big time on reptile gear and my patients is worn thin  so i am looking else where. I live in Caloundra QLD and am willing to travel 2hrs to get to a store/place that can help me.. peace



City Farmers used to be ideal for globes and reptile products before they got bought out by Pet Barn as their prices were the cheapest I've seen (at least 30% cheaper than Pet Barn).

Perhaps next time you are down Brisbane way you could check out Pet Superstore at Stafford. Im sure they'll look after you especially if you stock up.


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## bipolar_bear (Mar 15, 2016)

Awesome! I have found a relevant, active globe forum!

I am in need of advice fellow reptile enthusiasts as I'm unsure of what globes to use in my tank. I've found the internet to be full of quite varied opinions and would feel much more comfortable receiving advice from experienced, reliable keepers.

Okay, so I currently have my tank set up to get my first python, a bredli. It's a URS sliding door tower terrarium and currently is being heated by a URS Oz purple globe and has an ordinary white globe for day lighting. The white globe is set to turn on at 7am and off again at 9pm. I also have a thermostat which is set at 32 degrees. There's a heat mat underneath the tank for belly heat, and covers just short of half of the tank. The water bowel and a cool hide is on the other side of the tank which is about 27 degrees. 
I'm aware that the purple globe is a nocturnal heat lamp but I'm wondering if I can leave this globe running 24/7 essentially or would I be better off running a different globe, such as an infrared spot globe? I need a heat globe that I can run for 24 hours as there is generally a couple of nights a week where I'm not home, as one night I stay at a friends near uni, which is a 1.5 hour drive from where I'm living and I occasionally have 12 hour uni days, making it easier to crash at a friends than to venture home late.
So ultimately, I'd like to know what globes would be best in my situation for heating?? I can attach pics if anyone wants to suss the enclosure. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


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## SKYWLKR (Mar 15, 2016)

A heat globe is a heat globe is a heat globe. They all put out heat so whether its purple or red or blue doesn't change the heat too much. Those OZ Purple ones dont like to be switched on and off all the time so just leave it on. The day time globe (presuming its just a normal house hold globe emitting white or warm light) to assist with daytime temps can be switched on and off. However, coming into winter and depending on hold warm your house or room stays during winter, you may not need it, as it we never have Summer all year round (if you know what I mean). Pics of your enclosure may assist too in giving wisest advice. Im sure others will have their own ways of how they do things, but thats what your post is itended for. Getting different opinions. Now you have mine.


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## pinefamily (Mar 15, 2016)

As SKYWLKR has said, it is hard to give correct advice without knowing more about your tank. From your description, you might have too much heat, with the purple one on all the time, the white globe, and a heat mat. Depending on how bg your tank is, the daytime globe and the heat mat at night might be enough.
As for globes, don't buy from reptile or pet shops if you can; obviously the purple ones are only available from them. The daytime, or white, globes are best sourced from Bunnings with the Philips spot globes. You can get a range of wattages, to suit your setup. Five dollars odd for a box of two is pretty good value.


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## bipolar_bear (Mar 15, 2016)

The dimensions of the tank are 45 x 45 x 60. 

The thermostat is an off/on one, as opposed to a dimming one and turns the globe on and off quite regularly which I assume will shorten the overall life of the globe. My other problem is that my heat mat is at an awfully high temperature, about 50 degrees, does anyone know of anything I can put between the mat and the tank that will reduce the temperature? I don't want to risk belly burns.

Thanks [MENTION=38465]pinefamily[/MENTION], it came with the tank along with the thermostat and the daytime globe, otherwise when it runs out I'll definitely source the globes from elsewhere, prices at pet shops are a rip off.

Hope these pictures are suitable, thanks for all the advice folks, just want to do it all right and provide the most suitable environment for my little bredli.


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## pinefamily (Mar 15, 2016)

You didn't buy that tank in the northern suburbs of Adelaide did you?
That size is only good for a small python, and only for a very short time. Those tanks are better suited to frogs or geckos, IMO. 1 globe during the day will be plenty for that size tank. It sounds like the heat mat is too high a wattage. I wouldn't bother with it in this weather.
When do you get your snake, and how old/big will it be?


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## bipolar_bear (Mar 15, 2016)

Yep haha, as a fellow Adelaidean yourself, I believe you will be familiar with the Gully Reptile Centa? That is where the whole package is originally from, however I did buy it second hand from someone else who bought it from there. They never used it, but all the same it has been completely and thoroughly cleaned and disinfected with reptile safe products.
Yeah, I'm aware. I have another tank I can use when this one gets too small (will eventually use this tank for geckos) and another which is in its early stages of being built.
Okay awesome, thanks! I was planning to get the pyth from the Gully Reptile Centa, I have been sussing their hatchlings quite regularly and they are definitely itty bitty sized. I was planning to get it hopefully this week, depending on advice given about the heating options


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## pinefamily (Mar 15, 2016)

Gully are fine for advice and reptiles, if a little pricey. I was thinking of somewhere else that shall not be named.
If you get one of their hatchlings, you would be better off using a click clack with the heat mat. Hatchlings are less stressed in smaller environments. Then when it has grown a little, it can go into your bigger enclosure you mention. The tank in your photos is woo hard to get a good heat gradient; it will get hot, with no cool spot.
If the heat mat gets too hot as you say, you can use it with a normal timer, set for maybe 15 minutes on, and 15 minutes off, but you can experiment with times. Have the heat mat a third of the click clack to provide a cooler end. Some paper towel as an easy to clean substrate and you are a ready to go.


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## bipolar_bear (Mar 15, 2016)

Phew, okay thanks [MENTION=38465]pinefamily[/MENTION]! Glad to know I'll be dealing with somewhat reliable breeders.
Would I be better off buying a click clack from there or having a go at a DIY one? Can I get away with just the heat mat as well, or would I need some sort of lighting or radiant heat in the tub?


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## SKYWLKR (Mar 16, 2016)

One heat globe (as it is pictured). Move the log perch more underneath the globe and get rid of the heat mat. When your snake is cold it will bask under the globe until the required body temperature is achieved, then will go and hide or explore the rest of the enclosure. Depending on the size of the python, the tank may or may not be suitable for cubic size. You dont want to turn the enclosure into an oven. You want to provide an environment of heat (ie sun) and cool (shade) as it is in the wild. And make sure all those doors are secured!

However if it is a baby as you said, the plastic tub click clack is what youre after in the set up mentioned by pinefamily. About the size of a shoe box would be a good start. Target or Big W or any $2 shop sell them. And gently drill some small holes in a couple of the sides for air. But dont make it like swiss cheese cause you'll lose your gradient!


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## pinefamily (Mar 16, 2016)

We buy the Sistema brand tubs with the click up tubs (hence click clack from the noise they make). You have to be careful drilling in plastic, it can easily split. We use a soldering iron to put a few holes at each end of the lid, a few more at the cooler end. If your heat mat is a higher wattage, you can also put a thin piece of styrofoam between it and the tub. A small container for water at the cool end, and a hide for the snake. A small rock is a good idea too, as it helps the snake to shed.


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## Snapped (Mar 16, 2016)

It's fun making your own click clack, like Pinefamily said, a soldering iron puts in some nice holes, make sure you put in a hole down low for your thermostat probe and temp probe. I had my heat mat between two tiles (pieces of slate from memory) and used a couple of lego bricks between the two tiles so the heat mat got some airflow.
Just put one third of the tub on the heat mat/tile, set your thermostat so you're getting around 32 in the hot end (floor temp) and some hides in the cool and hot end (I used toilet roll holders, pill boxes, etc and paper towel for substrate)....here's a good guide to the basics of click clacks and looking after hatchies.  

And the one after that is our own thread on building a click clack 

https://wapythoncare.wordpress.com/2014/12/17/294/







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Here is the link to building a click clack https://aussiepythons.com/forum/showthread.php/93266-Guide-to-build-a-click-clack-(dial-up-warning)


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## stephnsons (Oct 15, 2017)

Very informative thread.


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