# bubbles from mouth?



## mckellar007 (Aug 12, 2008)

got my jungle out this morning because he shed last night and when he hiss' he blows bubbles. i am a little worried as it hasnt happened before. but i think it might just be water mixed in with saliva from when he shed last night.

whats your opinion?


----------



## Chris1 (Aug 12, 2008)

blows bubbles?
i'd guess respritory infection, straight to the vet!!


----------



## Helikaon (Aug 12, 2008)

could be protazoan, or respiratory to the vet


----------



## adazz (Aug 12, 2008)

Better safe than sorry


----------



## Sturdy (Aug 12, 2008)

blowing bubbles or foaming at the mouth is a strong sign of a RI

vet asap


----------



## wokka (Aug 12, 2008)

Its not unusual to get abnormal sign a day or so either side of shedding. If you can get the animal to the vet thats great but in the mean time turn the temperature up to a constant 31 degrees and check the mouth. Often an increased constant temperature will allow the animal to fight of minor "colds"


----------



## TELDAC (Aug 12, 2008)

Yeh Id definitely get that checked out.....Straight to the Vet!!!


----------



## wazza180sx (Aug 12, 2008)

Hey i had the same problem with my maccie took him to the vet a couple of weeks worth of injection and now he is back to 100%. The quicker you take it to the vet the better.


----------



## mckellar007 (Aug 12, 2008)

ive checked him over, there arent any other signs, i'll get him to the vet tomorrow. keep an eye on him until then. he isnt bubbling now, or hasnt in the last hour and a half. i have had a snake do this before, rushed him to the vet and it wasnt anything. i'll take him tomorrow, just incase.


----------



## westernrocky (Aug 12, 2008)

*blowin bubbles*

l would agree with 'wokka" but l would crank it to 33-34 and constant while you are waiting to get to the vet to confirm RI l will bet my bippy valve its not a protozoan as mentioned in a prior suggestion....cheers WR....PS go back 10-20 years and a lot of experienced herpers would just turn the heat up in a hospital cage to 35-36 for a week [constant ]with a small water bowl and 99%of the time it would get rid of the RI...but what you have to conceed to in this case is the snake is not getting warm enough whether it be by design or mechanical failure.......WR


----------



## mckellar007 (Aug 12, 2008)

his hot end is around 31 normally, and the spot he always sits is 37. cool end is 24-25. i bumped it up a little anyways, put in a small water bowl in the coolest part of the enclosure. hes booked into the vet at 10.30 tomorrow morning, will let everyone know how he goes.


----------



## Dave (Aug 12, 2008)

mckellar007 said:


> his hot end is around 31 normally, and the spot he always sits is 37. cool end is 24-25. i bumped it up a little anyways, put in a small water bowl in the coolest part of the enclosure. hes booked into the vet at 10.30 tomorrow morning, will let everyone know how he goes.


 Goodluck at the vet. I have a question though, isn't 37c to hot? I have a bredli and someone told me 36c was to hot for a bredi, and don't jungles like it cooler? or is that diamonds? not trying to pick a fight just wondering..


----------



## mckellar007 (Aug 12, 2008)

its diamonds that like it cooler, but yes, it is too hot. if i turn it down at all even so its 33 at the spot, he goes off down to his cool end and sits in his hide, and stops eating.


----------



## Helikaon (Aug 12, 2008)

westernrocky said:


> l would agree with 'wokka" but l would crank it to 33-34 and constant while you are waiting to get to the vet to confirm RI l will bet my bippy valve its not a protozoan as mentioned in a prior suggestion....cheers WR....PS go back 10-20 years and a lot of experienced herpers would just turn the heat up in a hospital cage to 35-36 for a week [constant ]with a small water bowl and 99%of the time it would get rid of the RI...but what you have to conceed to in this case is the snake is not getting warm enough whether it be by design or mechanical failure.......WR




hahah a trich trichamonas infection causes an increase in saliva which will cause the snake to blow bubbles. so i wouldn't be betting to much.

but you are right even in the vet texts it says that things like ri's and stomatitis will often fix with an increase in temp. but sometimes antibiotics are needed



edit: although protazoan infections is not even near as common as ri's the last one i saw i said to my boss that it looked like an upper respiratory infection, i was wrong, he took some samples and found a very high population of trichamonas, after a treatment of metronidazole the snake was hundred percent. and obviously after the entire treatment was fine. the symptoms were, ceased to eat, seemed lethargic and was blowing bubbles from its nose, also had a buldge at its throat due to the increase in saliva.


----------



## Chris1 (Aug 13, 2008)

while it might be treatable by cranking up temps, if it was my snake it would have been @ the vet within hours,....

i spent $350 on and upset tummy for a $50 beardy a while ago (Xrays and stuff to make sure nothing was blocking her,) and consider it money well spent even though it probably want necessary.

just take it to a vet.


----------



## wokka (Aug 13, 2008)

Sick animals dont always thermoregulate so a hospital cage normally has a constant temperature with no cool end.


----------



## mckellar007 (Aug 13, 2008)

took him to the vet this morning. she couldnt see anything wrong with him, but we got a course of antibiotics anyway, just incase. thanks everyone for their help!!


----------



## Tim.Arm (Aug 13, 2008)

*That's great to hear mate.*


----------



## BlindSnake (Aug 13, 2008)

Just curious, what drug did the vet give you?


----------



## mckellar007 (Aug 13, 2008)

baytril


----------

