# Help with bank enclosure



## reptinate (Mar 18, 2013)

Hey,

I'm in the middle of building a four bank enclosure. I'm putting the bottom and top lips on the front of each enclosure. Just wanted to know how you screw in the top lip of a bottom enclosure, and the bottom lip of the enclosure above? Screwing in one stops you from being able to screw in the other. (Hope that makes sense) I was looking for modesty blocks, which would allow me to, but can't find them in Australia. Is there any other way?

Also, is it best to have vents on the sides, or the back?

Thanks


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## Virides (Mar 18, 2013)

Use G10x40mm interior wood screws. Pre-drill a pilot hole that is narrower than the thread of the screw (this will ensure you don't split the wood). Drill a hole to the depth required with a drill bit that is slightly larger than the head of the screw so that you can sink the screw beneath the surface.

Screw in the top lip first then screw in the lip below, screwing through the floor/ceiling and into the underside of the top lip. Putty fill the hole at the bottom, let it dry and sand flush.

As you stand in front of the enclosure you won't see any fixings from the top and if you see under, there will be tidy filled holes where the screws were.


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## Virides (Mar 18, 2013)

Vents on the side or the back only really differ on the external look of the enclosure. If you have vents on the side, you will see them on the sides and since the rear of the enclosure is usually up against the wall, this is why vents are at the rear. As long as you leave a gap of about 10mm between the enclosure and the wall, vents at the rear are a good option for overall external appearance.

However, having the vents at the rear make them more noticable from the front rather than on the sides. So you have to ask yourself whether it is external or internal visual appearance that concerns you most.


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## reptinate (Mar 18, 2013)

Thanks heaps, Virides! That helps a lot 
I've already screwed the top lips on each enclosure. So when putting on the bottoms, would it be fine to either screw through the bottom lips and into the top ones below? Or screw through the top lips (already in place) and up into the bottom ones above? Different to the pic, but would it still work the same?

Appreciate the help.


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## Virides (Mar 18, 2013)

Still would be the same. The only difference is that you will see where the screw holes were patched up. If you are putting a sliding glass track system over these edges, then it is not much of a concern visually.

To ensure super strength, run a line of PVA glue down the centre. Stronger the better, just means you can't disassemble it.


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## reptinate (Mar 18, 2013)

Okay, thanks. Had to run down to bunnings and get a longer drill bit. While I've got ya here. What's the best glue to use for the plastic tracks? Liquid nails, or PVA? Going to use nails too.


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## Virides (Mar 18, 2013)

PVA won't suffice, you need a glue that can etch surfaces as it cures - much like Liquid Nails. For an even better bond, scuff the underside of the track with rough sand paper. More surface area equals better adhesion.


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## reptinate (Mar 19, 2013)

Oh, ok. I was thinking of using PVA. So liquid nails then? What other glue can do that too? Thanks


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## J-A-X (Mar 19, 2013)

Virides is right (he's rarely wrong) definatly scuff the under side of the track. I've had track lift even with liquid nails with scuffing. They make them to an almost mirror finish. I always nail the bottom track and use two small screws either end of the top track then glue a small piece of timber over them (in the track) which also acts as a buffer when I open the glass to quickly


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## Virides (Mar 20, 2013)

Alternatively for about $70 a roll (30m) you can get the same kind of double sided tape we use for our finger grips. It is ridiculously strong stuff. You wouldn't need to scuff the underside however the other surface (the wood) would need to be varnished about 3-4 times with fine sanding between to get the surface as smooth as possible. Liguid glues work best when you etch a surface where as tapes work best with smooth surfaces.

I try not to be wrong, I get alot of practice though - my day job is designing complicated signage


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## reptinate (Mar 20, 2013)

I'll just try liquid nails and nails. Do you put the nails right in the middle part, or the parts where the glass sits?

Virides has been a huge help, so I'll take his advice. Had been trying to work out how to do it for weeks lol.


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## apooh (Mar 20, 2013)

ive found liquid nails over time can go rock hard and crack away from the plastic track, silicon seems to work better and sticks like poo to a blanket.


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## J-A-X (Mar 20, 2013)

If you look carefully the lower track already has pre drilled holes for brads (thin nails) in the centre riser, don't get thicker than the hole, it will distort the track. 

Virides is tops, he's always happy to help with the tech stuff


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## reptinate (Mar 20, 2013)

Ahh, okay. Thanks.

Hmm, silicon. Didn't think of that. Would any silicon be okay? Need to get some to seal the inside too.


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## J-A-X (Mar 20, 2013)

Whatever you use don't put it on too thick. 1mm extra top and bottom could mean the difference of your glass fitting. Test fit the glass before securing your track!


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## reptinate (Mar 20, 2013)

Will do. What type of silicon should I use to seal all the gaps on the inside? One used for aquariums?


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## reptalica (Mar 20, 2013)

Just to throw a spanner in the works and a different spin on the normal way of fixing the glass track to the enclosure I actually used the tiniest of nails, like tacks with the slightest of heads on them and nailed them smack bang through the middle of the centre piece that runs through the middle.

Five years later still going strong.

Worked for me.....but each to their own.


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## bohdi13 (Mar 21, 2013)

reptalica said:


> View attachment 285870
> 
> 
> Just to throw a spanner in the works and a different spin on the normal way of fixing the glass track to the enclosure I actually used the tiniest of nails, like tacks with the slightest of heads on them and nailed them smack bang through the middle of the centre piece that runs through the middle.
> ...


 
Whered you get them tracks from ??!


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## J-A-X (Mar 21, 2013)

! That's how it's suppose to be done , didn't you read the entire thread 



bohdi13 said:


> Whered you get them tracks from ??!




Most people get their tracks from bunnings


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## apooh (Mar 21, 2013)

J-A-X said:


> Whatever you use don't put it on too thick. 1mm extra top and bottom could mean the difference of your glass fitting. Test fit the glass before securing your track!


Thats why its smart to put your track in first then measure your glass.
Any bathroom mould resistant silicon will do.


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## J-A-X (Mar 21, 2013)

apooh said:


> Thats why its smart to put your track in first then measure your glass.
> Any bathroom mould resistant silicon will do.



All instructions say to measure the opening (without track) and then deduct 11mm. So if people do follow the instructions then order the glass and then secure the track with silicone then the loss of the 1 or 2 mm will mean the already ordered glass won't fit. !!!


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## =bECS= (Mar 21, 2013)

reptinate said:


> Will do. What type of silicon should I use to seal all the gaps on the inside? One used for aquariums?



We use the Selleys glass, the one suitable for use on aquariums


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## Virides (Mar 22, 2013)

Be sure to add some of our finger grips to the glass panels 

Shop | Virides

Also when you get your glass panels, ask for not only the long edges to be beveled (for safety) but also have the corners beveled (the thickness of the glass). This will help ensure that the glass doesn't dig into the track.


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## reptinate (Mar 26, 2013)

I tried to find silicon that said it was suitable for aquariums, but couldn't see any. Do I have to look for one that says "non-toxic" or will any do? 

Haha, Virides, I was having a look at your finger grips the other day. Yeah I will get them beveled. I've heard some people say to get tempered glass and not floating. Is it best to get tempered? And should the glass always be at least 5mm, or can I go 4mm for small pythons? 

Thanks


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## =bECS= (Mar 26, 2013)

reptinate said:


> I tried to find silicon that said it was suitable for aquariums, but couldn't see any. Do I have to look for one that says "non-toxic" or will any do?
> Thanks



This one:
Selleys Glass Silicone - Silicone SealantsSelleys Australia


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## Virides (Mar 26, 2013)

reptinate said:


> Haha, Virides, I was having a look at your finger grips the other day. Yeah I will get them beveled. I've heard some people say to get tempered glass and not floating. Is it best to get tempered? And should the glass always be at least 5mm, or can I go 4mm for small pythons?
> 
> Thanks



Tempered glass is at its strongest on the face. You will find that table tops with glass have tempered glass for this reason. However, tempered glass is weak on it's edge. And thus if you hit it hard enough on the edge, it will explode into little chunks - this is also known as "safety glass" (chunks rather than shards). When you close the sliding glass panel, you may not hit it hard enough generally but there is always that risk, and of course it may never break. It really comes down to what you are comfortable with. Float glass will shatter into shards and is weaker on its face than its edge. A lot of people go with float as they don't have to pay for the tempering. Others like tempered because if they for some reason trip and hit the glass, they won't be slicing up their arm and/or the reptile.

If you go with tempered, I suggest getting from Clark Rubber (or similar place) black foam tape with an adhesive backing. I use 12x3mm. You adhere it to the edge where the glass panel will close and this will at least absorb any shock to the glass that may have otherwise shattered it.

Generally the thicker the material the stronger it is for its application but your trade-off is weight (weight difference of 5 and 4mm is negligible at this size). There is also a cost factor but once again, I would feel this is negligible.

Provided you got the foam tape, best combination would be, 5mm glass with bevelled edges and tempered (note that glass that is tempered can't normally be trimmed down if over size. You can get it trimmed down, but the molecular structure of the glass has been altered from its tempered state and will at some point in the future explode into pieces without even a tap - so, check your measurements).


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## reptalica (Mar 26, 2013)

bohdi13 said:


> Whered you get them tracks from ??!



That's just a pic from google images. Just using it as an example. There is enough meat to tap a fine nail/tack through there. If ya careful enough.


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## Hamalicious (Mar 27, 2013)

Any silicone will work, i use sikaflex because it's much stronger and lasts longer.


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## Virides (Mar 27, 2013)

As Hamalicious said, any silicone would work. Aquarium safe silicon is used because water is a perfect medium in which chemicals can diffuse into solution with the silicon - these would be particular hydrocarbons that in certain concentrations would either harm or kill fish. Fish have delicate membranes which can easily be affected by these contaminates. A reptile however would actually need to lick/consume the silicone to be affected in a similar manner. If you are particularly worried, then Aquarium Safe Silicon is good, but if it is not a high concern, any type of silicone would be fine, provided it is rated as an adhesive and not just a sealant.


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## =bECS= (Mar 27, 2013)

Virides said:


> A reptile however would actually need to lick/consume the silicone to be affected in a similar manner. If you are particularly worried, then Aquarium Safe Silicon is good, but if it is not a high concern, any type of silicone would be fine, provided it is rated as an adhesive and not just a sealant.



That is why we use aquarium silicone. Monitors and beardies like to dig in the corners of the enclosure and swim in their water sometimes, causing it to soak one end of the enclosure its better safe than sorry 
I find it smells less and the smells goes away or airs out quicker, but that might just be me.

Sikaflex is good also, fairly cheap at bunnings. Depends on what you want to house in it I guess


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## Virides (Mar 27, 2013)

Basically, the less chemicals you use during production, the more safe it is for your reptile. And if you can't avoid their use, you make sure the proper process has been done to achieve a state that is as safe as it can be 

I'd guess that Aquarium Safe Silicone either has a different (safer) solvent to keep the silicone from curing or it doesn't have the solvent at all meaning a shorter shelf life.


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## reptinate (May 24, 2013)

I know this is a late reply, but I have finally started finishing the cages. I stopped as I had to wait for the tracks to be ordered in, but it's taking too long. Not being able to get the glass cut again makes me a little nervous, just in case I get the size wrong.
I finally went and got the silicone. I looked for the aquarium one, but realised it's only clear, so I picked up Selleys 3 in 1 white silicone. This one: Selleys 3 in 1 Adhesive, Sealant & Gap Filler - Silicone SealantsSelleys Australia It says it's lox toxic too. Is this one okay?

In regards to the lighting. I've been trying to find a light fitting already wired for the fluro, but can't find any, so looks like I'll have to get an electrician in (hoping it won't cost too much.) Just wanted to know if certain wires need to be used, and if he'll provide it? Also, are the normal house fluro bulbs from Bunnings okay to use?

Thanks


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## Rogue5861 (May 24, 2013)

I use roof and gutter silicone for my reptile enclosures. 100% silicone so it is reptile safe, pretty much the same as aquarium silicone but not quite as strong.


Rick


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## marleehorne (May 28, 2013)

With Bank enclosures, what is the best heating method?

Cord and lighting? or heat mat and lighting?

Plus can you run a 4 bank on one thermostat?


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## Skitzmixer (May 28, 2013)

rynoYNWA said:


> With Bank enclosures, what is the best heating method?
> 
> Cord and lighting? or heat mat and lighting?
> 
> Plus can you run a 4 bank on one thermostat?



I used heat mat and LED Lighting for mine  I used the same thermostat for my top and bottom (3 bay) and the middle is on a different one, just because I had a slightly different setup to the top and bottom enclosures


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## reptinate (May 30, 2013)

Rogue5861 said:


> I use roof and gutter silicone for my reptile enclosures. 100% silicone so it is reptile safe, pretty much the same as aquarium silicone but not quite as strong.
> 
> 
> Rick



So the one I got it no good? Damn, I don't have the receipt. Surely the one I got would be safe? On the off chance that my reptiles licked it, it wouldn't harm them, would it?


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## reptinate (May 30, 2013)

Skitzmixer said:


> I used heat mat and LED Lighting for mine  I used the same thermostat for my top and bottom (3 bay) and the middle is on a different one, just because I had a slightly different setup to the top and bottom enclosures



I'm probably going to use heat panels. They're not cheap though. Where did you get the LED lighting? Would you be able to post a pic?

Anyone know about the fluros and wiring question in my other post?


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## Skitzmixer (May 30, 2013)

reptinate said:


> I'm probably going to use heat panels. They're not cheap though. Where did you get the LED lighting? Would you be able to post a pic?
> 
> Anyone know about the fluros and wiring question in my other post?



You're right they're not cheap, but IMO they really are worth every dollar. If they're out of your budget, try making your own heat panel. Have a look around the DIY section, you'll find a few threads on making them heat cord. 

LED lighting - eBays the best place, just search for SMD strip, you'll find ones that come with a power adapter, just takes a bit of searching around.


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## Marzzy (May 30, 2013)

Where's the pics ?


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