# Encolsure plan for adult Coastal. Tips?



## viciousred (Aug 25, 2011)

Hey guys, 
This is my rough draft of the enclosure I want to build for my female coastal, she is currently 61/2 foot I'm wanting to build something that will set her up for a few years or possibly for the rest of her life. A few questions. 
Vents - where should I put them?
Dimensions - Suggested size for an adult coastal?
Heating- Best way to heat it?
Materials - Malamine? Others?

Feel free to suggest changes to the over all design, as I said just the first draft. 

P.s I wont actually be building this, I'm just getting the design down for the man to do


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## Serpentess (Aug 25, 2011)

Definitely wider, maybe not as high?


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## viciousred (Aug 25, 2011)

Been told they prefer height to floor space?


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## J-A-X (Aug 25, 2011)

Definately as much height as you can safely make it without being top heavy and the size would be dependant on the locale and how big she is likely to get. my personal opinion is to go as high and wide and deep as you have room to fit and still get it through doorways if you have to. My Brissie coastal is tipping 2.4m (8ft) and only 3 1/2yo and still growing although starting to slow down , and her tank is 1.8m (6ft) H x 1.2 (4ft) W x 70cm (2'2") deep and in the warmer weather she uses every inch of it.


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## viciousred (Aug 25, 2011)

I'm thinking that 5hx3Lx2d is Max i can go at the moment, as I am planning to get at least 2 more snakes and breed her one day, and don't want to steal all the room, although my house mate is moving out at the end of there year witch gives me a whole new room to fill!! She is 3 1/2 years old too. But was little for her age when we got her, only a skinny 50cm at a yr old with retained shed. was a complete novice back then...
I no longer think she is 6 1/2 ft after reading somewhere that sheds arent an accurate size?

Where do you think a should put the vents?
And best way to heat Day/Night? I'm thinking either mount heat cord under the shelf or have an over head light/ ceramic fitting?


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## J-A-X (Aug 25, 2011)

viciousred said:


> She is 3 1/2 years old too. But was little for her age when we got her, only a skinny 50cm at a yr old with retained shed. was a complete novice back then... I no longer think she is 6 1/2 ft after reading somewhere that sheds arent an accurate size?
> 
> Where do you think a should put the vents?



my girl was only the same as yours at a year old  - slow starter apparantly, but she's made up for it ! and no, sheds arent an accurate measurement and from what i've read they can be as much as 25% longer ! ! i gauge my girls size against the tank when she stretches out. 

vents should be high on the 'hot' side and low on the 'cool' side. to allow decent air flow. 
heating is a personal choice once again, some swear by ceramic emitters, others by Mecury Vapour. i use a heat cord with a tile and a hide over it.

have a good hunt through as many setup threads as you can and find something that you think sounds good to you.


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## Australis (Aug 25, 2011)

I dont think a Taipan would really use the height.


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## viciousred (Aug 25, 2011)

Australis said:


> I dont think a Taipan would really use the height.



Too clarify, a _Coastal Carpet Python_


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## Schnecke (Aug 26, 2011)

I think if you could push the width to 4' then 5x4x2 would pretty much set her up for life (just my personal opinion though, it would give her more than a LOT of full grown pythons in this country get)

Natural timber (well cured stained pine or Cedar) would look really cool with hinged glass doors, but melamine is cheaper, very strong, has a great colour range now including timber looks) and it's easy to keep clean (and you don't need to worry if it gets wet as it's only a wipe clean job.) when I upgrade to a full size enclosure for my Jungle, I think I'll go for a dark timber look melamine with one large hinged door. I think it'll look magic (easy access, easy to view and easy to clean)

I think if your basking shelves are large enough to hold a warm hide (or some kind of coverage so she can choose to hide if she needs to) then I really like your set up. I'd pop a large forked branch in there that's permenantly fixed to the sides that will enable her to stretch out a bit and you're set!

So good to see people putting so much thought into enclosures


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## viciousred (Aug 26, 2011)

Yes the plan is to have the shelves about 30x50 so half of it can be fitting with a hide, planing to put pegs/holding brackets to stop her pushing them off but still able to be taken out and cleaned.
I'm liking the idea of melamine cleaning wise and price wise, and will indeed just have one big wood framed glass door 
I have said branch in my garage just waiting to be scrubbed and cut to size 

Another question, Thermostats. Ambient or Probe? I never really under stood how the ambient ones worked...
I think i will use heat cord with a tile on top, should the probe be under the tile with the heat cord or ontop of the tile, or dangling in the air above the tile? And maybe some kind of uv light for veiwing her and giving a day night cycle


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## mattyg (Aug 26, 2011)

chantelle_savage said:


> Definitely wider, maybe not as high?




maybe just turn the whole thing on its side?


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## pharskie (Aug 26, 2011)

Im currently in the prosses of making a 5x4x2 enclosure for my pair of coastal x jungles. They will have a hide box in the cold end suspended from the roof (i got a good sized and shaped bird hide that i am going to modify the opening door.)with a low watt (45 watts maybe) attatched to the bottom. That way they can have a duel purpose heated hide and basking spot. Im using one big panel of perspex that is 1200x870 and 8mm thick that will open upward so when i open the door the heat in the top will not bellow out. As i said this will be for both snakes as they have been cage mates since they where tiny. Took em both to the vet the other day and my male was going nuts because i had to put them in seperate bags. I really fear this seperation anxiety when he gets to the 10ft or 11ft range like his parents.


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## Just_Plain_Nuts (Aug 26, 2011)

Jax is all over it. We normally recommend 2.1mH x 1.2mW x 0.75mD . Don't recommend the timber framed glass door as the weight of the glass will droop the whole thing making it not fit properly. The cheapest and simplest way of heating and lighting it is to use 12V halogen downlights and give the snake a basking shelf about 25cm from 2 or 3 of them and another one on the other roof corner for light






vents as Jax said too


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## viciousred (Aug 26, 2011)

OK cool, So what would you suggest door wise?


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## Just_Plain_Nuts (Aug 26, 2011)

frameless glass


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## viciousred (Nov 1, 2011)

SO we are going with 5x4x2 with sliding glass front, and down lights. 
Do you think it would be necessary to put a heated hide at the bottom as well? Or just have the down lights at the top? and can you get red down lights for night heating?Is there a particular brand or any from bunnings will do heat wise? I'm also going to use an Echo Tech Digitel thermostat. Has any one used these? recomend a better one?
for down lights, how much of a cavity do you need to vent the heat they put out? cm? I was thinking of just building in a box on one side or have a false top and a backless cavity at the top. 
I'm probably getting all my wood cut my Mister Ply. Just waiting on quotes.


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## J-A-X (Nov 1, 2011)

I tried red lights - made my girl very agitated - blue were no issue, so now I either just rely on the room light to watch what's going on or a party light to simulate moon light. Night heating isn't really needed past a year old, I think they need an overnight temp difference rather than a climate controlled environment. Just my opinion.


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## Just_Plain_Nuts (Nov 1, 2011)

agreed, the red lights are a bit obnoxious so we have gone with heating from under the rock basking shelf for customers in really cold regions. otherwise night heating is not needed. As far as cavities go use a cavity with an open back. Technically they are supposed to be 20cm but realisticaly can be 10cm especially if they have a shield.


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## viciousred (Nov 1, 2011)

Ok Thanks


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## viciousred (Nov 13, 2011)

lol a few more questions about the down lights.
do you need to use a thermostat with them? how hot will the shelf get with 2 downlights over it? 
Also would down lights be suitable for a diamond python as well?

And are echo tech digitel thermostats any good? What would be best for down lights, and normal lights? (setting up lizards as well)


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## Southside Morelia (Nov 13, 2011)

I used to have RED lights in one of the display enclosures near the front window. Strange men kept knocking at the door very late at night, asking me for weird favors for money, so we had to change it.  

Now i'm a heat panel, heat chord enthusiast.


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## viciousred (Nov 13, 2011)

Hmmm I currently use heat cord now and haven't had a problem with it, but do like the idea of light... GAH to many options for such an indecisive person like me! lol


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## Virides (Nov 13, 2011)

Since you are going for the sliding glass, you may aswell get some finger grips to drastically reduce smudging - Virides - Stylish Enclosure Enhancements


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## viciousred (Nov 13, 2011)

ooo thanks for that there kinda cute!


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