# Need some advice !!!



## gardinator (Mar 13, 2012)

I'm building a big enclosure for my SWCP the measurements are 
1765 wide x 1232 tall 
im converting a big TV Cabinet.

basically what I'm having troubles with is deciding on the glass/ perspex, first of all glass or perspex ?

second-I wanted to make it have 2 big sliding glass/perspex because I want it to be completely visible with out obstructions basically because I think it looks neater.
But the problem im facing is that I have seen people write on here they go to bunnings and get there glass slides but when I go to bunnings I get told they dont have them or they have no idea what I am talking about and I get directed to tracks for draws instead.

does anyone know exactly what section they are in, in bunnings and can I get them big enough or will I have to look at a different method of doors on the front ? 

thanks


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## zzzboa (Mar 13, 2012)

go to a cabinet maker or a glazier.i had the same problem when doing mine bunnings don,t stock them,they take up to 5mm glass so should be ok for what you want.


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## Jake007 (Mar 13, 2012)

hey mate im in the middle of the same problem lol but im pretty sure im set on perspexs (cant spell it) cause its lighter easyer if u need to make a cut u can just shave alittle bit off if you were wrong (yes we are all wrong some times hahaha) but i think perpesx (again cant spell) but i think it is the way to go if u are cutting weight but all so its easyer to screw something in to it 

and yer o to a cabinet maker tell him the sizes and he will be able to get everything ya need if u go with glass


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## Jande (Mar 13, 2012)

Definitely a cabinet maker or glazier. Mitre 10 (here in NT at least) have offered to get some shipped in for me in the past and said it would take a week roughly to get them. Could be another option for you provided your local Mitre 10 would be willing to help.


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## J-A-X (Mar 13, 2012)

Ask at bunnings for the sliding door hardware like rollers for wardrobe doors, or even the foam weatherstrips, I'm pretty sure that's where they were at my local green shed. 5mm is standard width but you can get it in 1200mm or 1800mm lengths. And make sure you read the instructions for measuring for your glass, get it wrong and you'll either not get the glass in or the glass will fall out, from memory the glass should be 11mm vertically shorter than the opening the track is going into, and make sure the opening is equal all the way along and especially not bowed in the middle or you'll have glass that jams.

Most times you can go to the special order counter and order it. Mine is actually cheaper at mitre 10 and they didnt scratch their head when I asked for it (at my local M10 it's out with the timber)


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## gardinator (Mar 13, 2012)

ahh ok yeh i was thinking perspex because if I want to frame it later on i can by screwing it to wood cant do that with glass lol

hmm cabinet maker seems like the go then, and I will pop into mitre 10 and see what they recommend.

ok ill ask for that then thanks jaxrtfm, you would think if u explained what u where wanting and how it would be used they would be like oh yeh this but they all seem to be a bit brain dead !


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## Monitor Madness (Mar 13, 2012)

In the attached thread explains where Bunnings stock them. I've bought them from there before. Post #6
http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/diy-zone-5392/buy-runners-track-glass-doors-176206/


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## gardinator (Mar 13, 2012)

YES ! now i know what to ask for... thankyou so much lol


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## PythonLegs (Mar 13, 2012)

Perspex is easier, but it scratches as soon as you touch it.


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## Lockie_1 (Mar 13, 2012)

gardinator said:


> YES ! now i know what to ask for... thankyou so much lol



Hey mate i make my own enlosures because there so damn expensive to buy! id say go glass because it wont scratch its all ive ever used and i'd also see how flexible perspex is because you dont want any escapees haha =) and as for the tracks bunnings sell it in certain lengths and ive found it to be much easier and cheaper to go to a glazier and get them to cut it for you =)

hope this helps mate


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## gardinator (Mar 13, 2012)

Lockie_1 said:


> Hey mate i make my own enlosures because there so damn expensive to buy! id say go glass because it wont scratch its all ive ever used and i'd also see how flexible perspex is because you dont want any escapees haha =) and as for the tracks bunnings sell it in certain lengths and ive found it to be much easier and cheaper to go to a glazier and get them to cut it for you =)
> 
> hope this helps mate



ok thanks, yeh i was told perspex can be quite expensive too. well im going to go to bunnings tomorrow and suss out these tracks and then ill go to a glazier.
thanks


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## Jande (Mar 13, 2012)

I ended up using the brown plastic tracks from Bunnings. They're in with the weather strips standing upright with weather seals and door locks etc. They're normally in plastic sleeve packaging. Just a note with these because I made the mistake myself, the shallow tracks go at the top and the deeper tracks go on the bottom. I just ripped one out without checking and ended up with two shallow bits which the glazier kindly informed was was incorrect  Luckily I'm converting a tv cabinet now and the other piece of shallow track that I cut is still long enough lol. *silly me!*

Edit to add: They cost me $27 for the packet which is a shallow piece and a deeper piece 1800mm long. Easily cut with a hacksaw or something.
Also available in white.


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## Monitor Madness (Mar 13, 2012)

Jande said:


> the shallow tracks go at the top and the deeper tracks go on the bottom


Isnt it the other way around. The deeper tracks go at the top cause you slide the glass up and in over the bottom track then drop it in to it.

Im looking at a tank now and the deeper tracks are at the top. 

Hope that make sense.


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## gardinator (Mar 13, 2012)

Jande said:


> I ended up using the brown plastic tracks from Bunnings. They're in with the weather strips standing upright with weather seals and door locks etc. They're normally in plastic sleeve packaging. Just a note with these because I made the mistake myself, the shallow tracks go at the top and the deeper tracks go on the bottom. I just ripped one out without checking and ended up with two shallow bits which the glazier kindly informed was was incorrect  Luckily I'm converting a tv cabinet now and the other piece of shallow track that I cut is still long enough lol. *silly me!*
> 
> Edit to add: They cost me $27 for the packet which is a shallow piece and a deeper piece 1800mm long. Easily cut with a hacksaw or something.
> Also available in white.



thanks for the heads up mate



Womafan said:


> Isnt it the other way around. The deeper tracks go at the top cause you slide the glass up and in over the bottom track then drop it in to it.
> 
> Im looking at a tank now and the deeper tracks are at the top.
> 
> Hope that make sense.



i think that might be right the one on my enclosure at the moment the deeper ones are on top


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## Jande (Mar 13, 2012)

Womafan I thought so too but the idea is to slot the glass into the deeper tracks then into the top. Apparently it also prevents the glass being pushed out of the bottom tracks by accident because they're deeper. I didn't think this would be an issue myself but I've done it the way they suggested and it worked fine. The top is only as a guide and the bottom are supporting the weight of the glass so I thought it made sense. No problems so far.


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## gardinator (Mar 13, 2012)

i guess its just one of those things that can go either way.


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## Jande (Mar 13, 2012)

Yeah I really don't think it's a big deal. Just make sure you have one of each and you should be good :lol:


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## longqi (Mar 13, 2012)

be careful with perspex..... even if you get lexen which used to be the best it still goes semi opaque after a relatively short time... especially when subjected to 30c 24/7... although its lighter and easier to work with I found its not worth it


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## J-A-X (Mar 13, 2012)

LOL , the deeper track goes at the top, the glass gets pushed up into the top track and then dropped into the shallower lower track, if you've measured your glass right it will just clear the bottom track when you put it in (and fall out if you put the tracks in 'upside down' )and the packs have 2 tracks , 1 x shallow and 1 x deep track in each pack. It's designed this way so you can remove the glass if you have to like when a sliding glass door lock jams itself locked or the snake peeing in the track and effectively glueing the glass to the track - yes I've had both happen !


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## Monitor Madness (Mar 13, 2012)

Jande said:


> Womafan I thought so too but the idea is to slot the glass into the deeper tracks then into the top. Apparently it also prevents the glass being pushed out of the bottom tracks by accident because they're deeper. I didn't think this would be an issue myself but I've done it the way they suggested and it worked fine. The top is only as a guide and the bottom are supporting the weight of the glass so I thought it made sense. No problems so far.


That's interesting, how does the top actually hold it? It just doesn't seem like it would work too me. Are you able to remove the glass while the tracks are in position.
Hope you don't take it the wrong way not having a go at you just very curious, it doesn't seem like you would be able to remove the glass.


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## gardinator (Mar 13, 2012)

haha man thats some bad luck


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## J-A-X (Mar 13, 2012)

No one told me their pee is like superglue when it dries, I could smell it, couldn't see much.... Didn't think to check the track PMSL



Womafan said:


> That's interesting, how does the top actually hold it? It just doesn't seem like it would work too me. Are you able to remove the glass while the tracks are in position.
> Hope you don't take it the wrong way not having a go at you just very curious, it doesn't seem like you would be able to remove the glass.


you're right
Even the shallow track is deep enough to hold the glass and stop it being pushed out. Done properly the only way the glass can come out is if the snake pushes the entire front pane of glass up and out simultaneously even then it's got to lift it about 4mm to clear the track


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## Monitor Madness (Mar 13, 2012)

Here is a link to another track system. If the glass is going to be as big as you say this would be easier to slide.
Virides - Stylish Enclosure Enhancements


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## Jande (Mar 13, 2012)

Well it's glued in there and it's not coming off so too bad lol. The shallow track is about 5mm deep so it really shouldn't matter. The deeper track is about 7mm but harder to measure so overall the difference isn't huge. I can see how I managed to make the mistake to be honest. They looked pretty similar when I put both side by side. And yeah I can remove the glass just fine. I know you're not having a go lol. I'm starting to wonder if I should have taken the glazier's advice now though. But as I said, it's not causing a problem so I'm happy.


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## thomasssss (Mar 14, 2012)

Womafan said:


> That's interesting, how does the top actually hold it? It just doesn't seem like it would work too me. Are you able to remove the glass while the tracks are in position.
> Hope you don't take it the wrong way not having a go at you just very curious, it doesn't seem like you would be able to remove the glass.


your right mate i used to be a glazier and the deeper tracks go at the top and shallower at the bottom if the glass is the right size it will must push up into the top channel and clear the bottom tracks then drop back into place in the bottom tracks its the exact same setup as on a normal house window if the deeper tracks where at the bottom the glass wouldn't want to sit in the tracks


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## Pythoninfinite (Mar 14, 2012)

Jande, you are quite wrong. The DEEPER track goes on top, the shallow one on the bottom, as womafan says. The glass is pushed up into the deeper track and over the bottom (lower) track. When it drops into the lower track, the glass is still held in place at the top because the top track has deeper retainers.

Don't use perspex or any other acrylic sheeting - it is very flexible and can allow escape, it scratches easily even with day-to-day cleaning, it's highly electrostatic so attracts dust as soon as it's cleaned, and it absorbs water - if the humidity varies on either side of the enclosure (inside & out) it can warp because the side which is exposed to the most humidity will bow outwards.

Shop around for glass - it can vary in price by as much as 200% depending on who you see - a smaller glazier is likely to have offcuts and do it cheaper just to get rid of them. Larger companies have a fixed price per sq m, and it's usually way higher than smaller suppliers.

Jamie


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## browny (Mar 14, 2012)

Womafan said:


> In the attached thread explains where Bunnings stock them. I've bought them from there before. Post #6
> http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/diy-zone-5392/buy-runners-track-glass-doors-176206/



thank you, thank you, and finally thank you for that I missed that thread finally will be able to find it


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## Virides (Mar 15, 2012)

We have a sliding glass track system which self-closes. Find out here: Virides - Stylish Enclosure Enhancements

Also has a large litter trap area so you don't have to clean out grit everyday, maybe once a year instead.


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## CaptainRatbag (Mar 16, 2012)

If you want unobstructed view in, you can go a full plate front window, fixed and have a door on each side to get access. Glass for sliding panels (without frame) needs to be toughened glass, so you would have to order it exact size and have it delivered (sounds expensive) and the size you are talking would need to be 6mm thick. If you have fixed front glass, you could use laminated about 5mm-6mm which you can get cut for you while you wait at a glass shop. (and cheaper)
All just my opinion


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## J-A-X (Mar 16, 2012)

Laminate is a minimum of 6.38mm thick. I use it on all my 'adult' tanks for any species likely to get over 2 metres long


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## Skitzmixer (Mar 16, 2012)

Jande said:


> Womafan I thought so too but the idea is to slot the glass into the deeper tracks then into the top. Apparently it also prevents the glass being pushed out of the bottom tracks by accident because they're deeper. I didn't think this would be an issue myself but I've done it the way they suggested and it worked fine. The top is only as a guide and the bottom are supporting the weight of the glass so I thought it made sense. No problems so far.



haha mine are around the other way :S but it seems to be ok


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## gardinator (Mar 16, 2012)

CaptainRatbag said:


> If you want unobstructed view in, you can go a full plate front window, fixed and have a door on each side to get access. Glass for sliding panels (without frame) needs to be toughened glass, so you would have to order it exact size and have it delivered (sounds expensive) and the size you are talking would need to be 6mm thick. If you have fixed front glass, you could use laminated about 5mm-6mm which you can get cut for you while you wait at a glass shop. (and cheaper)
> All just my opinion



ahh ok, i was thinking of putting a small border at the top and bottom anyways just so the glass wont be so massive was thinking about 200mm. thanks for the advice i wouldnt of known that it had to be toughened, how come you cant have laminated on sliding glass ?


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## J-A-X (Mar 16, 2012)

Because laminate is a minimum 6.38mm thick and I haven't seen plastic track that will take anything thicker than 6mm and even that's pretty rare , most bunnings tracks will accept 5mm max


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## Monitor Madness (Mar 16, 2012)

Crap, so you can't use normal glass on sliding doors it has to be toughened or laminated. 
I need to get some glass and I was going to use normal glass and that was expensive enough


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## Goth-Girl (Mar 16, 2012)

Hi,
Just had exactly the same problem. Couldn't find any runners in bunnings so ended up going to GlassTech here in Bundy and they fixed it all for me..Thats if you want Glass..Cloe..


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## J-A-X (Mar 16, 2012)

Womafan said:


> Crap, so you can't use normal glass on sliding doors it has to be toughened or laminated.
> I need to get some glass and I was going to use normal glass and that was expensive enough



You can if it's for a small python ( under 1 metre ) but certainly wouldn't recommend it for anything larger and certainly not for the size of glass you're thinking of. As for cost, yes it's a killer. It's always the dearest part of any of my tanks


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## Virides (Mar 19, 2012)

Womafan said:


> Crap, so you can't use normal glass on sliding doors it has to be toughened or laminated.
> I need to get some glass and I was going to use normal glass and that was expensive enough



Normal glass is infact fine to use.

Toughened glass is great for impacts on the face but along the edge is where it is weakest and a sharp enough impact can cause it to shatter (so don't go slamming the panel).

Laminated glass has the potential to delaminate if in contact with water (high humidity also can cause a problem). The edge of the glass would need to be sealed.


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## tonesanlainie (Mar 19, 2012)

If you are worried about the glass/perspex being lifted out of the plastic tracks then there is an easy fix. there are two tracks and I always have put finger slots in glass so I know whick side shuts. Anyhow the top track I screw in by drilling a hole in the glass channel. I use screws and washers to hold it in. I will refer to two galss pieces as being one for the left (run in say the front track) and one for the right (that runs in the back track). Now I put two screws about in the front track above where the left panel would fit, and two screws in the back track above where the right panel would fit. I use the washers so the the screw head is spaced down a little (usually one washer is fine). I then put the right panel into the back track from the left side. Slide it across and so now the screw heads prevent that panel from being lefted by the screws above it in the track. I do the same from the other track. In short to remove the glass you have to fully open a glass panel and it can be lifted upwards so that the bottom can then clear the track. But cannot be lifted high enough when it is closed due to screws. Perspex being so light is the main issue, glass usually has enough weight and is too difficult for an animal to lift a panel out. Cowdroy as part of their instructions (for the plastic tracks) tell you how to measure for your panels. Problems happen though when the opening is not square. Enjoy!


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## gardinator (Mar 19, 2012)

so today i finally had a day off to go to bunnings and get the tracks, i went and had a look and yeh there too small for the thickness of the glass so i googled and found some other places that do these tracks i went to them and the minimum lengths they do are 3.5m and u have to buy both top and bottom separately which are around $60 each. i decided to head back to bunnings and suss out making my own tracks so i did and with great success. So i went and brought 4x 3m lengths of aluminum half tube tracks so its a "u" shape and i cut them down to size and clamped them together and drilled them into my enclosure the open size is 7mm so i will be able to get some nice thick glass to put in there. so much easier to just make it up myself instead of running around for there plastic tracks!

And the 4 pieces of aluminum only cost me $44 !


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