# Burnt Snake



## mysnakesau (Oct 8, 2009)

:cry: I have a very beautiful carpet python named Abony. Always a perfect shedder, in top condition and never fussy with what he gets to eat.......well at least he was before he ended up like this...





Abony was sharing a 4ft enclosure with another carpet python, Opals. All my lights are covered but another learning kerb in my hobby taught me about basking spot temperatures. While I thought the basking light was not throwing enough warmth I added a box that the snakes could sit on, to lift him up higher to the light. The temperature at the basking spot was 37. While I thought it was probably too high, the snakes were not moving from the warm spot so I didn't change it. Prior to Abony's last shed I discovered he'd developed blister-like spots along parts of his body. I wasn't sure if I'd missed a shed and it was loose or what was up. After he had shed, these wounds were revealed under his new skin. I immediately started treatment with silverzine. These pictures were taken today after Abony attempted to shed again, overnight. I helped him get skin off his unscathed body but have not attempted to remove the skin from these affected areas. He is a big, strong snake. So I am confident he will recover well. Opals did not sustain any problems but have moved the box so it is near but not directly under the light. She moves about but he wasn't which made me think the temperatures were ok. BUT, another stupid mistake that shouldn't have happened, but it has. That is the end of lights for me. He now has a heatcord on the floor with carpet over it and seems happy enough. I have had such a dramatic experience with skins and shedding coming out of winter this year it ain't funny  Lost a diamond, had to shed another, and my best male carpet gets "sun burnt". 

I often share my badluck so it gives others something to consider with your own snakes.


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## pythons73 (Oct 8, 2009)

Thats ashame Kathy,he is a favourite of mine..We can only learn from our mistakes,no bodys perfect..Hopefully with all the love and care that you will provide for him he should be up and about quicker than you think...I hope all goes well...MARK


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## notechistiger (Oct 8, 2009)

What bad luck  Hope he pulls through just fine for you, mysnakesau.


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## mungus (Oct 8, 2009)

Be carefull its not the onset of scale rot [ blister desease ]
That temp would'nt produce burns imo.
Aleks.


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## cement (Oct 8, 2009)

skin burns at around 60 deg plus.


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## mysnakesau (Oct 8, 2009)

Mungus - The only thing that makes me believe it isn't scale rot is that he has NEVER been kept in damp, dirty conditions. His substrate is always dry, I do nothing to try and raise humidity and until this issue, he had never had a bad shed - always perfect, in one piece, clean shedder. But I have antibiotic cream for him and have had it looked at. Thanks for the thought, though. Will keep that in mind.

Thank you Mark and notechistiger  Will keep you posted on his progress.


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## kupper (Oct 8, 2009)

good luck wiht it kath i am sure he is in great hands , live and learn


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## Renagade (Oct 8, 2009)

37 degree won't do that... could it have been much higher?


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## justbecausewhy (Oct 8, 2009)

hi, my spotted python was burnt on some crystal rocks that the first owner put in her tank and they heated up and burnt her along her side...the scares are still there each time she sheds ....

she is full size and I was told when I got her that the scaring will get smaller each time she sheds...but the scares are still the same size...Ive had her nearly a year now.


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## Just_Joshin (Oct 8, 2009)

IMO that looks to be blister rot, not burns. The history you gave seems ot support the theory as well, with the progressiveness of the disease. A snake would not willingly sit there and let itself burn, especially not to that extent.

I'd be getting a vet to look at it ASAP before it gets anyworse.


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## celticskull (Oct 8, 2009)

tome it looks like it hasent shed all its old skin
i have seen it before but never that bad
i have seen snakes loose the end of there tails when all the sheding skin isnt gone and it rots under the shed
good luck with it all


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## luvezit (Oct 8, 2009)

I have actually seen this on another snake not mine but my sisters. She changed from a ceramic to an infa red globe and had a thermostat and after 7 weeks with new globe her snake got burnt in patches along its back. Its is because it was to close to the globe, after applying the creme from the vet her snake is getting alot better and improves with every shed. It is a slow recovery process and the snake was in a bit of pain. Our herp vet said to feed it only once every 6-7 weeks so it had time to heal between sheds. Also to note my sisters snake is border line FAT and could do with leaning out a little. I hope the info i have posted has given you some help and its not something that is your fault its just something that can happen.


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## pythons73 (Oct 9, 2009)

Firstly i would like to say that Kathy keeps all her animals in clean cages,ive never seen any poo or wet paper etc in the cages,I cant imagine it being scale rot as generally thats from keeping them in dirty-wet cages...Im certain with all the love and treatment she will give to the snake in question he will heal in time,after a few sheds more than likely you wont even see the problem..best of luck Kathy..MARK


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## DA_GRIZ (Oct 9, 2009)

luvezit said:


> I have actually seen this on another snake not mine but my sisters. She changed from a ceramic to an infa red globe and had a thermostat and after 7 weeks with new globe her snake got burnt in patches along its back. Its is because it was to close to the globe



i don't see how getting to close is gonna burn the snake. my 7.5ft and 5ft coastals get up around there cages for hours at a time and are not burnt.


kath i am with the others it doesn't look much like a burn. but good luck with him, hope all goes well for you


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## CodeRed (Oct 9, 2009)

mungus said:


> Be carefull its not the onset of scale rot [ blister desease ]
> That temp would'nt produce burns imo.
> Aleks.



I agree. Just to be sure a trip Id take the snake to an experienced herp vet. Better to be safe than sorry.


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## Just_Joshin (Oct 9, 2009)

pythons73 said:


> Firstly i would like to say that Kathy keeps all her animals in clean cages,ive never seen any poo or wet paper etc in the cages,I cant imagine it being scale rot as generally thats from keeping them in dirty-wet cages...Im certain with all the love and treatment she will give to the snake in question he will heal in time,after a few sheds more than likely you wont even see the problem..best of luck Kathy..MARK


 
Just to clarify Mark, no one is accusing Kathy of bad husbandry. Sometimes they can develope it regardless of humidity or hygiene levels, so even the most diligent keepers can just get unlucky.


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## Chris1 (Oct 9, 2009)

ouch, hope he recovers well,..

just thought i'd say i checked my bredlis temps where he sits on the shelf his heat panels attached to and the temps were between 58-61C, (needless to say it shouldnt have been and i turned it down straight away)
but my point is he sits there for weeks on end (and had at those temps before i realised how hot it was) and never got burnt,..

could the other snake have squashed it around the light cage, a freind brothers snake died that way. 

otherwise i'm with the others, 37 doesnt sound like burny temps.


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## redbellybite (Oct 9, 2009)

Wow Kath ,looks very nasty ...fingers crossed hope you can get it sorted what ever it is ...I am a fence sitter on this, as I have never seen scale rot or burns in real life ,and you cant always tell from pictures ...all I can say is keep us posted and hope he comes good ..


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## mysnakesau (Oct 9, 2009)

Thank you very much for your replies. Reading back through my first thread one thing I forgot to mention and probably the most crucial is that on top of the box I had a piece of slate so the snakes wouldn't cave the box in (they aren't little snakes). The temperature that I got, I used my infrared/lazer (whatever) thermometer and on the slate it was 37. While you have said that wouldn't be hot enough to burn, would knowing that I had a piece of slate there, change your opinion?

Mark you have such a good heart. Thankyou for your kind words, and to everybody as well.

I have had a very experienced breeder look at Abony and confidently believes it is not scale rot. Yes it is hard to tell for sure in photos, but Abony's wounds are dry and scabby, but he says scale rot stays wet looking. These wounds have never done this. His advice was to leave the snake be and don't apply anymore cream at this stage, to let it all dry out. The vet gave me silvazine and also doesn't believe it is scale rot. AFter the treatment he did on my diamond, even though we lost her, I am confident he knows what he is doing.


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## mungus (Oct 9, 2009)

pythons73 said:


> Firstly i would like to say that Kathy keeps all her animals in clean cages,ive never seen any poo or wet paper etc in the cages,I cant imagine it being scale rot as generally thats from keeping them in dirty-wet cages...Im certain with all the love and treatment she will give to the snake in question he will heal in time,after a few sheds more than likely you wont even see the problem..best of luck Kathy..MARK


 
Mark,
We all have just finished cooling our critters over winter.
Their ammunity system's are down abit.
If they dont get enough heat and have a snug hid to go to [ terracotta or wood ], they can catch nasties at times, especially the older ones.
Keep this in mind wont you.
Aleks.


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## Londos1990 (Oct 9, 2009)

Poor fellow, good luck with him Kath and what ever is wrong.... i hope you nail it !!!!


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## Chris1 (Oct 9, 2009)

i'd say 37C is 37C regardless of that its on,...lots of my animals have slate and dont get burnt, (including the young bredli, theyre slate is around 40, but other areas (cave unnderneath and branch above) are the right temp)

good luck with working out what it is, i really dont believe 37C could burn anything.

unless its allergic to heat, or something else,...i guess anything could be possible,.....


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## serpenttongue (Oct 9, 2009)

Kathy, I'm sorry that this has happened to you and your snake. I know it's a crap feeling, and it shouldn't be happening to someone who cares so much about her animals.

I find myself agreeing with mungus. Gut feeling tells me it's not a burn. I would have thought that temps of 37'c would only cause a dry shed, not cause burns.

Not to dispute the experienced keeper who had a look at her, but I have never known scale rot to be 'wet looking'. Scale rot is dry and scabby. However, blister disease tends to be wet and sticky around the blisters/sores.

About 1 month ago one of my diamonds came down with scale rot. I was keeping it in an aviary where it basked in the mornings, was exposed to typical diamond temps, and used a polystyrene esky as an insulated hide. Clean newspaper was used as a substrate in the hide. No high humidity, no filthy conditions. . The snake shed it's skin and there was about 4 large scale rot patches on it's body. I cannot explain how they got there, but there they are! It's unfortunate, but sometimes things happen without warning. If anything, I believe my diamonds immune system was somehow compromised, and this may be what has happened in your case, since you say that he shares the enclosure with another. Sharing the basking area could have been stressful to him, which played with his immune system??

I don't think the slate has anything to do with it. You say the slate was 37'c? But there's no burns on his belly? I also don't think a heat cord under carpet will be a sufficient heat source.

If this is a burn, then what globe were you using? Reflector globes are great, but spot globes concentrate their heat too directly to one spot, which could lead to a burn. In any case, he doesn't look too bad, and should heal without problems.

Good luck, Kathy!! Chin up, luv!


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## pythons73 (Oct 9, 2009)

Just_Joshin said:


> Just to clarify Mark, no one is accusing Kathy of bad husbandry. Sometimes they can develope it regardless of humidity or hygiene levels, so even the most diligent keepers can just get unlucky.


 I realise that,i was just stating that she keeps her animals in good clean enclosures


mungus said:


> Mark,
> We all have just finished cooling our critters over winter.
> Their ammunity system's are down abit.
> If they dont get enough heat and have a snug hid to go to [ terracotta or wood ], they can catch nasties at times, especially the older ones.
> ...


 Thanx Mungus,will most certaintly keep in mind...


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## mysnakesau (Oct 9, 2009)

serpenttongue said:


> ........
> 
> If this is a burn, then what globe were you using? Reflector globes are great, but spot globes concentrate their heat too directly to one spot, which could lead to a burn. In any case, he doesn't look too bad, and should heal without problems.
> 
> Good luck, Kathy!! Chin up, luv!



Thanks Nick  The globe used was an ordinary household 50W downlight. But I have moved Abony to another enclosure now where there is no lights at all. He is still with another python but these two have been lifelong buddies. They were actually mating yesterday. But I have sold my olives which are leaving in 3 weeks time so then I will have an enclosure to give them all, one to themselves.


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## Dar1stheory (Oct 9, 2009)

Hey mysnakesau, 

Sorry to hear about your snakes misfortune... 

Was just wondering, I have a bit of time up my sleeve before I let my CCP out of his click clack in to the full enclosure I built for him, and at the top it has a set of infra red heat downlamp type bulbs, and I've positioned a nice forked branch directly underneath it... I was only thinking a day or two ago, about how I'll have to buy a second thermostat etc to run these, and would need to run a probe under it, which to get an accurate reading of the basking spot temp, would be required to be fixed to the basking spot itself, which means that the basking snake could potentially cover the probe, therefore creating a false reading, and then the heat source would be working to heat up constantly... This a possible theory for your accident?


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## serpenttongue (Oct 9, 2009)

mysnakesau said:


> But I have sold my olives which are leaving in 3 weeks. .


 
You sold your Olives?!!!:shock:


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## mysnakesau (Oct 9, 2009)

:cry: Yes. Very regretable sale but my work circumstances have been wofel and aren't going to change. I can't afford the enclosures to upgrade them and my hubby is busy with his paragliding, I'd feel guilty to take him away from that, just to build me more enclosures. So I let the olives go. They are staying in Kempsey so will get to stay in touch with them. I am doing a TAFE course next year for 12 months and 99% guaranteed of full time employment at the completion of the course. So maybe I might get to buy them back.


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## wokka (Oct 9, 2009)

To me scale rot is a generic term for an infection under the scales. It can happen for many reasons and does not require poor husbandry. Unfortunately the reptile industry seems to have created a stigma similar to kids with nits. In both cases and in most cases, I think its bad luck that the environment has been such that the condition develops.It does not necessarily indicate poor husbandary or lack of care!


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## wokka (Oct 9, 2009)

Anyhow, back to the really important question Kathy; How could you get rid of your olives??


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## pythons73 (Oct 10, 2009)

Ive asked myself plenty of times Wokka HOW she could,But i can quarantee that its going to be hard for her,i give her 10points for atleast knowledging that she cant provide bigger enclosures for them,others would just keep them in what they have..I give credit to anyone that if they cant supply a animal with its needs, being a cage,food or whatever the next step is to sell,and unfortunately thats Kathys Hard decision that she made..MARK


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## pythons73 (Oct 10, 2009)

mungus said:


> I was'nt being a smart **** Mark.
> Hope all goes well Kath.
> Aleks.


 I didnt take it that way...I appreciate your input..


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## mysnakesau (Oct 10, 2009)

wokka said:


> Anyhow, back to the really important question Kathy; How could you get rid of your olives??



Not an easy decision for me Wokka, can tell you that. At the time I bought these olives I was working 30+ hours a week and was confident of securing permanent work. Now I am getting 4 hours and permanent work? I won't bother holding my breath. They are outgrowing their 4ft enclosures and I cannot afford to upsize them. I still can't believe it myself, Wokka. but unfortunately, it has to be. AFter TAFE at end next year, I am 99% guaranteed of a permanent full time job upon completing my nursing course. I can't keep the olives squashed up till then. Its not fair on them, and again, circumstances could very easily change. :cry:


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## redbellybite (Oct 10, 2009)

VERY SAD Kath on the olive part ... 
so how is Abony now ? 
does it look nasty still?>or has there been slight improvement?


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## cockney red (Nov 7, 2009)

mysnakesau said:


> :cry: I have a very beautiful carpet python named Abony. Always a perfect shedder, in top condition and never fussy with what he gets to eat.......well at least he was before he ended up like this...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have exactly the same problem with my big Diamond girl. She had an issue that I thought was burns, as I knew it could not be Husbandry, she has since shed, and its getting worse, not better. The areas I thought were burnt are raw and not drying up...Vet Sunday morning.


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## mysnakesau (Nov 8, 2009)

Not good CR. I hope the vet gets her on the right track quick smart.

My boy has shed twice since I put up these photos and thankfully, his condition is getting better. While his last shed looked terrible, the best treatment (as advised) was to leave it alone. Don't soak, don't try to pull the skin off, no creams, nothing but kept warm & dry. It sounded daunting at the time but I followed through and it has paid off. He still isn't eating but I think that's normal for the boys this time of year. He has been mating with my two females. I probably shouldn't let him but one of my girls was escaping her enclosure in search of love - found what she wanted and no longer trying to get out. I have a glass lock on it now but she isn't nosing the door like she was


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## cockney red (Nov 8, 2009)

Took my big girl to the vet today, and as suspected, Blister Disease! On Antibiotics and Betadine treatment, then back to vet in 10 days. Wont be giving worms a log as a hide again in a hurry!!


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## cockney red (Nov 8, 2009)

Kath, you gotta keep your Olives:shock:

I could not conceive of losing Alice and Cooper now, they are quality worms


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## matt86 (Nov 8, 2009)

It's a real puzzle, and obviously no clear answer yet as to what caused it.
37 degrees... Impossible as a cause (and if the heat is coming from below, and diffusing through slate, the belly would be burned).

If the current treatment/plan of action is working, then stick with it for now, but don't rule out other causes, and be ready to go to the vet if things change... 

It's obvious you love your animals, and pride yourself on high husbandry standards, so don't feel bad, just keep your mind open, as I think heat is a highly unlikely cause under the circumstances you mentioned.


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## malisa (Nov 8, 2009)

*burnt snake -heating solution?*

Hi there MYSNAKESAU,
I too am over the whole light thing.. broken globes and burn risks etc.
I am thinking , that if your snake has wounds, then carpet might pose an infection risk. A couple of mine love to wee and poo in their hot spots…
So I am sending you these pics in the hope they might alleviate your heating / safety issues.
In the last year I made some boxes to house heat cords. I am going to try and upload two types of boxes I made. They are fully enclosed, with a lift up top so that I can easily check for any movement of cords within the boxes. The small box, with stick on- cord holding thingies. The bigger version has routed channels that hold the cord in place, with a little piece of wood that holds them down, so that they don’t move. The box lids are secured at the rear with zip ties. I put paper as substrate on the top and then rest the thermostat and thermometer on top of the paper. Usually I have a rock or pot plant holding these in place (but not covered). They work great, the only improvement I can think to make is to put them on a mesh shelf, or little legs, so that they don’t sit in urine or faeces. More coats of varnish will make them easier to wipe down though.
The box shown with the routed channels –is the lowest maintenance version. I suggest these for anything over 15cm. The biggest one I have made is 1.3m x 0.6m.
They are VERY cheap to make, a large sheet of ply (4mm fixing ply) costs about $22 and the beading that I use for the sides – 1cm squared costs about $1 per meter if you buy the rough stuff. I also use another type of beading (about the dimensions of a matchbox, but only ¾ thick (to be routed for holding cord) , and some other beading that is about 1cm wide x 4mm thick- to hold cheat cord in place. These last two items of wood need to only measure just 1cm when resting on top of each other, so that when they are in the box, holding the cord, the lid will shut properly. LASTLEY- You also need some tiny nails – about 1cm long and v.thin to put it together. That sheet of ply will make several boxes!! 
I start with the bottom piece of ply cut to the size I want it, and I use the 1cm beading and I lay on the sides and front/ back pieces, resting on the inside of the ply, flush with the edge. REMEMBER to leave enough space at the back for the heat cord to enter (and possibly exit too at the other side). make them small enough so that the snae cannot enter (if a juvie)
I turn the whole lot over, line it up and nail it in from underneath. I do this because I don’t want any nails coming into contact with the heat cord and creating hotspots.
I turn it back over and then begin to fix the routed panels into place- being sure to line up the channels so that they run straight. (I don’t have a router so I clamp two pieces of wood together and drill through the centre, when I open it – channels. 
I put them along the top and bottom of the box, leaving room above and below for the cord to turn- snaking along the inside of the box. Turn them over and nail them in. be sure not to nail into a channel, as you don’t want nail tips to create hot spots. turn it back, so you can see the channels and check it over for nail tips. Then fasten the thin strip of beading on to hold cord in place. i use a little nail on one end- pre drill the hole. and blue tack on the other so both ends are fixed. The base is made!! The last construction step is to rest the lid on top of the base and drill a hole in each corner at the rear of the box. Zip ties will be inserted after varnish.
When finished, I then varnish the outside (only) of the heat box with water based tinted gloss (wattle). when dry and non smelly, i take it in and add the cord through back of enclosure, into the back of the heat box and use the zip ties to fix the rear together and trim so that they are not sharp. (I use these because they are easy to cut if I want to remove quickly)
My apologies for any lack of clarity in the instructions, but I hope the pics will help.
Kind regards,
Malisa


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## mysnakesau (Nov 8, 2009)

Malisa thank you very much for your post. That looks a very neat way of using a heating cord. Do you mind me sharing the pictures with other ppl outside this forum? Ppl are always wanting different heating ideas. My idea of the cord woven through bird wire is very simple for my unclever hands but I like the idea of it being totally enclosed as such. Will certainly hold onto your directions. I can't even make a lid for my rat tubs let alone make something as good as that. All 4 pieces of timber for my lid were not straight or cut to correct length. By the time I put the wire on it the frame steadied from its wobbles but doesn't fit my tub  :lol: but I'll show your pics to my hubby tomorrow, see what he thinks. He is very good with his hands, just doesn't want to.

Thanks Matt. Yes it certainly is going to a mystery with Abony. His belly is not burnt at all. If it were something infectious, none of my others have any problems. I gave him a feed tonight - just a small rat so it won't stretch him. He accepted it so hopefully put some nourishment in him to get him into another shed.


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## malisa (Nov 8, 2009)

*go for it!*

Hi MySnakesAu,

By all means, share with other herpers. It is the snakes that will benefit if we share info to make their living conditions better. I was, at one stage, thinking of taking the design to the local pet shop too. Another modification I was thinking of making for the next ones are to have smaller beading pieces secured along the length of the channels, so that they only cover a couple of loops at a time. This would make it easier to secure the loops of cord through as you go along. 

None of my boxes have straight edges either! Everything I make is functional, not aesthetic. The boxes get covered with paper anyway, so you don’t see them. (I previously made just the channel racks and laid paper substrate on them, but the pressure of the snakes laying on them made them shift position and the loops would come into contact with each other. With the new design, no snakes have gotten into the boxes and I never have to reposition the heat cords anymore. AND they can be as big or as small as you like.
 I guess one more tip would be measure and re- measure both the enclosure base and the wood before you cut it. Good luck.
Malisa


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## Dipcdame (Nov 8, 2009)

mysnakesau said:


> Not an easy decision for me Wokka, can tell you that. At the time I bought these olives I was working 30+ hours a week and was confident of securing permanent work. Now I am getting 4 hours and permanent work? I won't bother holding my breath. They are outgrowing their 4ft enclosures and I cannot afford to upsize them. I still can't believe it myself, Wokka. but unfortunately, it has to be. AFter TAFE at end next year, I am 99% guaranteed of a permanent full time job upon completing my nursing course. I can't keep the olives squashed up till then. Its not fair on them, and again, circumstances could very easily change. :cry:



What a crying shame that you have to give up two of your loves. Isn't there ANYONE on this forum that may have an enclosure you could possibly use for that time, SURELY SOMEONE can help out????
Failing that, is there anyone who could take on the snakes to care for them till mysnakes is back on her feet and able to take them over again? I know it's a lot to ask, but I know how gutted I would feel to lose our babies. SURELY theres something that SOMEONE can help out with?


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## J-A-X (Nov 8, 2009)

> the most crucial is that on top of the box I had a piece of slate so the snakes wouldn't cave the box in (they aren't little snakes). The temperature that I got, I used my infrared/lazer (whatever) thermometer and on the slate it was 37. While you have said that wouldn't be hot enough to burn, would knowing that I had a piece of slate there, change your opinion?


when you used your IR temp gun, did you hold it close to the snake when you checked the temp ? - hold it close gives a smaller area that it reads, - and measured the temp *on* the snake, not the slate,
IR temp guns are not just point and shoot, they *do not* read through glass, they *do not *measure air temp, they measure surface temp. and different surfaces have different Emissivity levels (different rates of reflecting heat ) becuase of these different emissivity levels you can get a false reading of up to 10c or more depending on what you are 'measuring' 
a basic $30 temp gum will unlikely allow you to make adjustments to allow for these ditterent reflective readings,
*Never* rely on just one temperature reading device when it comes to reptiles, i use a IR temp gun but i still regularly check with a standard $5 thermometer to make sure,
I am really pleased to hear that yout baby is slowly on the mend, but when i read you use a IR temp gun i just thought i'd pass on this bit of information..


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## mysnakesau (Nov 27, 2009)

Jax I just found your reply. I do hold my temp. thingy close to the area I want to test. The snakes are usually in the way of where I want to test so often try and find a gap between their coils to get a reading of what they are laying on.

BUT, Abony shed again just yesterday and left behind the most perfect shed. Almost all in one piece. His scars shed off, the skin tore in one area but it all still came off. Not left stuck all over him like his last one. He has improved 99% and you really have to look, to find the marks now. I am absolutely thrilled with his recovery. Whatever it was, I still will not trust him near lights ever again.

Have some crappy photos of him but I think he wasn't interested in posing today. But he wasn't in feed mode which was good - no biting, just didn't want to be handled . lol


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## cockney red (Jan 10, 2010)

mysnakesau said:


> Not good CR. I hope the vet gets her on the right track quick smart.
> 
> My boy has shed twice since I put up these photos and thankfully, his condition is getting better. While his last shed looked terrible, the best treatment (as advised) was to leave it alone. Don't soak, don't try to pull the skin off, no creams, nothing but kept warm & dry. It sounded daunting at the time but I followed through and it has paid off. He still isn't eating but I think that's normal for the boys this time of year. He has been mating with my two females. I probably shouldn't let him but one of my girls was escaping her enclosure in search of love - found what she wanted and no longer trying to get out. I have a glass lock on it now but she isn't nosing the door like she was


Vet did her proud Kath, so much so, that she is now incubating 20+ eggs, much to my surprise....


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## mysnakesau (Jan 10, 2010)

Oh that is fantastic CR  Wow what a lovely surprise for you. My boy has fathered a clutch of eggs too  They are in my incubator and due to hatch mid-February


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## cockney red (Jan 10, 2010)

mysnakesau said:


> Oh that is fantastic CR  Wow what a lovely surprise for you. My boy has fathered a clutch of eggs too  They are in my incubator and due to hatch mid-February


2 months ago, I was wondering if she'd survive, and now this, as Serps said, take more than a bit of scale rot to put em off, Its amazing watching her do her stuff, and great news that gorgeous boy of yours is putting it about to good effect, too...


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## tonesanlainie (Jan 10, 2010)

malisa said:


> Hi there MYSNAKESAU,
> I too am over the whole light thing.. broken globes and burn risks etc.
> I am thinking , that if your snake has wounds, then carpet might pose an infection risk. A couple of mine love to wee and poo in their hot spots…
> So I am sending you these pics in the hope they might alleviate your heating / safety issues.
> ...



A great idea Malisa!! Not wanting to hijack the thread but was going to suggest to hold the cord in place to use silver duct tape (is designed for higher temps and is about $7 at bunnings) and for the lid to use a ceramic tile, maybe glue it to the timber lid. I use some fibro sheet for the base (cut same size as ceramic tile), tape a heat cord swirled like you have done, and then silicon a ceramic tile down sealing the edges. I use 400mm square tiles (sample tiles are great!!!) and fin dthem easy to maintain. 

Cheers


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## diabolic (Oct 8, 2010)

gorgeous snake, but pity bout the burns.. sorry bout the mishap.. good luck with it all


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## mysnakesau (Oct 9, 2010)

Thank you for the reply diabolic. My big boy is well recovered now, thank God, apart from some scarring which you can hardly see. He is still my beautiful boy and sired a clutch of 23 babies last year. I no longer use lights in any of my snake tanks. I made heat panels using heatcord entwined through wire and covered with shade cloth. While I don't use thermostats I use minimal size heat source so it can't get too hot to burn anyone. I will get some new photos up when the sun comes out. He is demolishing a decent size rat as I type


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## Riggsy (Oct 9, 2010)

Can u put up a pic of the light with the cage around it?

The only way I see it being a burn is if the cage itself is touching the light bulb and heating up.

However by the looks of the photo the damage seems to be spread out so I'm leaning towards something other than burns. 

I agree that a snake won't sit there long enough to burn itself. I think a trip to a good reptile Vet is the go.

Also I wouldn't be using carpet over heat cord. Better to use a ceramic tile, but I don't like heating from underneath anyway. I always use coloured bulbs and make sure the cage is big enough so the bulb doesn't touch the cage.


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## Riggsy (Oct 9, 2010)

Doh! Just realised this is an old thread...Thought the first post was from yesterday. Hate it when that happens. Good to see he's better now.


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