# Having problems with my commodore



## motman440 (Mar 15, 2010)

hi everyone.... ive got a dilemma...... My vs commodore series III wont start. starter motor engages, car seems to turn over but then stalls as if there is no fuel getting to it. no problems prior. been turned over 3 times before today. in between the last start and the failed attempt i moved an audio amplifier. the positive wire shortes on earth. dont know if this would have an impact or not. please help!! 
any input would be great.
thankyou thom


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## jessieJEALOUSY (Mar 15, 2010)

must be that time of the year.
my corolla wont start either >_>
but im fairly sure its my alternator lol


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## dtulip10 (Mar 15, 2010)

take it to a mechanic (on a tow truck)

Gavin bulivants in coffs is good (i used to work there)


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## schizmz (Mar 15, 2010)

sounds like solonoid might of burned out.. or fuel pumps not working..?


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## chondrogreen (Mar 15, 2010)

C02 sensor


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## motman440 (Mar 15, 2010)

im actually in wagga atm. any suggestions??


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## motman440 (Mar 15, 2010)

there was fuel in the line at the filter.


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## waruikazi (Mar 15, 2010)

chondrogreen said:


> C02 sensor



lol @ CO2


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## dtulip10 (Mar 15, 2010)

crank angle sensor, fuel pump, coil packs, ignition module and the list goes on. take it to mechanic


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## chondrogreen (Mar 15, 2010)

waruikazi said:


> lol @ CO2


 
I am serious.
A shot C02 won't give message to the ECU for the correct fuel ratio yada yada. Is ok if it starts in open loop mode, but sometimes (and frequently with VN-VS Commodores) it dosn't and will not start at all. The main probs Commodores have are C02, CAS and AFM.
Really it could be anything including the ECU, TPS, Fuel pump etc, but if we are to take a guess with what little info we have been given I am going to say C02 (check engine light) as this is what I have seen most often.

You can do a self diagnosis with the ECU.
Try a search online for a how to


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## Kurto (Mar 15, 2010)

Buy a Ford!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## dtulip10 (Mar 15, 2010)

chondrogreen said:


> I am serious.
> A shot C02 won't give message to the ECU for the correct fuel ratio yada yada. Is ok if it starts in open loop mode, but sometimes (and frequently with VN-VS Commodores) it dosn't and will not start at all. The main probs Commodores have are C02, CAS and AFM.
> Really it could be anything including the ECU, TPS, Fuel pump etc, but if we are to take a guess with what little info we have been given I am going to say C02 (check engine light) as this is what I have seen most often.
> 
> ...



you cant self diagnose a vs, a c02 sensor will not stop a commodore if he can not start the engine the engine light will be on all the time


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## chondrogreen (Mar 15, 2010)

Thats why I said check engine light.
Was thinking of self diagnosis on a VN.
The C02 can stop it from starting/running. Have gone through it with my mother in laws VS.
Replaced the C02 and all was good. Ask 100 people with C02 probs and 90% will say there car still ran but ran like crap, the other 10% will tell you they couldn't start/run the car at all. Do a search online you will no doubt find the same.

*It could be anything really.*
TPS
AFM
C02
CAS
ECU
ignition module
key battery
fuel pump


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## SyKeD (Mar 15, 2010)

Kurto said:


> Buy a Ford!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



As soon as i saw this thread. i knew some comment would eventually bust out! and there it is!. lol.

Good luck with your commi mate =)!.


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## guff_man (Mar 15, 2010)

If you get a paper clip, bend it so you can fit both ends in slots 5 and 6 on the top row of the ALDL port which is under your dash on the drivers side, that will flash the error codes to you. Check out just commodores.com.au for a list of codes.

Can you hear the fuel pump priming? But as said could be a huge list of things
It wont be the oxy sensor lol, that wont stop it from starting.


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## kristian101 (Mar 15, 2010)

mate i would check the fuse for the fuel pump. just get a test light and check both sides of the fuse if the fuse is ok both sides will light up if not then you know what the problem is... make sure the reds are on when you chec k it though.


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## motman440 (Mar 15, 2010)

cheers guys. thanks for the help.


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## adfel (Mar 15, 2010)

you should check all the fuses just behind the battery, and give the bottom of the fuel tank a bit of a hit if the fuel pump isnt working sometimes thats gets them going again.


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## slim6y (Mar 15, 2010)

My issue sounded similar - it was the key needed replacing - I got a new key and re-programmed in and it worked fine as though there was never a trouble.

Good luck.


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## guff_man (Mar 15, 2010)

With the key problem though was your car actually turning over, or did it just do nothing?
Had that problem with one of my old cars but it wouldnt turn over, just wouldnt do anything. In this case he says itll turn over but not fire


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## slim6y (Mar 15, 2010)

guff_man said:


> With the key problem though was your car actually turning over, or did it just do nothing?
> Had that problem with one of my old cars but it wouldnt turn over, just wouldnt do anything. In this case he says itll turn over but not fire



Mine would turn over and cut out - and what's worse - one day (the final straw) - the car wouldn't unlock - so I unlocked it with the key instead of the button hence setting off the alarm. From there I couldn't start the car because the key was stuffed, so I was sitting with my family in my car looking like I was stealing it in the middle of town.

Car turned over - would sometimes start, then cut out.

Two possible issues were identified - but the computer never threw any error codes.

One was the crank angle sensor - the other the key.

When I replaced the key the car started normally.

Before that - the car would start but cut out instantly as though fuel was blocked.


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## dtulip10 (Mar 15, 2010)

just get it to a mechanic instead of asking for back yardies expertise. i have been a mechanic for over ten years and no one on here will fix the problem.


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## slim6y (Mar 15, 2010)

Most certainly wasn't trying to fix the problem - but I did mention of a problem which carried very similar symptoms.

Could be wrong - I certainly don't verify my mechanic skills that's for sure 

But - if it's the same problem it saves a bucket load of $$$ on pulling sensors in and out to find they don't fix the problem!


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## ShadowDragon (Mar 15, 2010)

I'm pretty sure what you have described is the dip-stick hasn't been flowed with enough compression at the taillight hinge nutcap. Once that i all sorted you'll be sweet as bro.

Glad I could be of most service.


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## junglecarpet (Mar 16, 2010)

I would suggest fuel pump or even resetting your standard ecu


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## TigerCoastal (Mar 16, 2010)

If you not real good with cars from the outset, your better off going to a mechanic or auto elec, as there is a list of things as long as your arm that it could be, and if you do the wrong thing (especially with the elec system) you can cause even more problems....Can i ask why you were working on the amp with the battery connected? You should disconnect your battery if you are planning on doing anything electrical on the car....better to be safe than sorry as i have heard of ecu's getting fried, fuses blowing and lots of other big $$$ stuff going wrong


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## rash (Mar 16, 2010)

yep, do the paper clip test. i did it a few weeks ago on my commo and it told me straight away that it was the crank angle sensor. replaced it and it fired up instantly!


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