# Enclosure build



## ThatGuyAdam (Aug 20, 2014)

I'm planning on building my lil guy a new enclosure.
Basically I have read that you should not feed a snake in its enclosure so I was thinking about building a feeding box at one end. I open the door only when I'm going to feed him, he goes in and eats then leaves when he is ready. 
Has anyone had this idea and it turned out not so good? Lol 
Can anyone tell me if this is even a good idea? 

All replies appreciated!
thanx![emoji3]


----------



## reptishack101 (Aug 20, 2014)

ive always fed in the enclosure never had a problem. out of 8 snakes only ones cage defensive and thats a jungle carpet and hes mainly all bluff but ive also only recently got him. All the others you can put your hand straight in and get them out. 
Would you take the snake out and put him in the separate the box or would he have to go in there himself as it might take a while for him to get in there. But still sounds like a good idea it sounds similar to my jungles enclosure but he just gos in there to cool off.


----------



## ThatGuyAdam (Aug 20, 2014)

reptishack101 said:


> ive always fed in the enclosure never had a problem. out of 8 snakes only ones cage defensive and thats a jungle carpet and hes mainly all bluff but ive also only recently got him. All the others you can put your hand straight in and get them out.
> Would you take the snake out and put him in the separate the box or would he have to go in there himself as it might take a while for him to get in there. But still sounds like a good idea it sounds similar to my jungles enclosure but he just gos in there to cool off.




Honestly I have only READ that lol. I'm very new to this world[emoji3] (got my first snake 4 days ago). 
I would probably feed in a separate enclosure or tub to minimize the chance of being or becoming cage defensive as his only a juvi and I'm a noob haha!

I also READ (lol) that people have taught their snakes to feed at one end of the tank and be picked up from the other. I was thinking something similar to that - in the box = food


I've been throw some ideas around in my head and just wanted to see what was possible. I know the basics but not much more than that.


----------



## pinefamily (Aug 20, 2014)

If you handle your snake regularly, it shouldn't be a problem. A couple of ours are fine with us putting our hands in their enclosures, but "defensive/reluctant" to come out of their tanks. And we feed all of ours in their enclosures.


----------



## Lawra (Aug 21, 2014)

I've found that feeding in enclosures only becomes a problem when:

a) feeding is regimented (e.g. every Friday at 7pm) so your snake expects food when you open the enclosure
b) substrate sticks to food item and cannot be digested

I prefer to keep things more natural and feed at random times which also stops them from expecting food when the tank gets opened.


----------



## Riffherper (Aug 21, 2014)

I understand your thinking however I have always fed in the cage with nil issues whatsoever. Feeding in a separate tub means you have to then move a snake in feeding mode and with a fresh rat in its guts. It may latch on or even regurgitate it's food.


----------



## Lawra (Aug 21, 2014)

[MENTION=37197]Riffherper[/MENTION] speaks the truth... Try moving a woma who continues the feeding frenzy mood for at least a day after being fed! I took pics the last time I tried it... He stayed latched onto and coiled around my tshirt for hours after being put back into his enclosure!


----------



## ThatGuyAdam (Aug 21, 2014)

@ Lawra - I was going to feed as you were saying (same time/same day each time) but I won't now lol. I didn't even think about that - rookie move
[MENTION=37197]Riffherper[/MENTION] I did wonder how that works. If Ur not supposed to handle a snake after feeding in case it causes regurgitation, that's why I thought of making the attached feeding box it can freely move out of once happy to do so


----------



## Lawra (Aug 21, 2014)

[MENTION=40758]ThatGuyAdam[/MENTION] you're a quick learner!

Just remember, don't over complicate things. Find the simplest way that works for you and your pet


----------



## ThatGuyAdam (Aug 21, 2014)

[MENTION=37955]Lawra[/MENTION] I like to think so too haha. I just want the best for my lil guy, its not his fault I'm a noob so I want as much info as I can to prevent my noobness affecting him

K.I.S.S technique is always the best! (Keep It Simple Stupid)


----------



## Lawra (Aug 21, 2014)

[MENTION=40758]ThatGuyAdam[/MENTION] your little guy will be just fine  I was an idiot n00b and my first python Steve (woma pictured above) is still going strong!


----------



## ThatGuyAdam (Aug 21, 2014)

[MENTION=37955]Lawra[/MENTION] thanks for the vote of confidence. I'm sure he will be fine but I want to make sure I know as much as possible


----------



## Lawra (Aug 21, 2014)

[MENTION=40758]ThatGuyAdam[/MENTION] knowledge = power! With great power comes great responsibility  lol


----------



## Riffherper (Aug 21, 2014)

Mate from hatchies I just open the lid of the plastic tub holding the feed item with my hand and they feed. In bigger cages as they grow I use tweezers or BBQ tongs. Snakes rely a lot on smell not just sight. In my experience snappy snakes are not snappy due to a feeding response but an aggressive/fear driven response. Building a specific feed section is really not required.


----------



## ThatGuyAdam (Aug 21, 2014)

[MENTION=37197]Riffherper[/MENTION] So you basically open the lid and the snake takes the feed item out of the tub. That's a good idea to prevent substrate ingestion. I know a feeding box is not a requirement but is it possible to train it to feed from there? If it is possible to train this behaviour would it tend to go near or into the feed box when hungry?


----------



## Riffherper (Aug 21, 2014)

I use paper towel for hatchies and newspaper for adults so substrate getting in their gut isn't an issue for me. I used to use breeders choice paper pellets. I would put down newspaper before I fed however more often than not the snake would play around and move the food collecting pellets - this obviously has the potential to lead to them being eaten. What I meant with feeding hatchies is that I open my lid, wiggle the rat, snake takes the rat (inside tub), and I close the lid. It will not be required to train a snake to eat at a specific place. The snake will feed wherever you put the food item. It's to the point with my full grown Bhp's where I put their food in a plastic tub and put it in their cage. They will seek it out and eat it. Depending on the snake also it will always be hungry haha especially womas and blackheads. They will eat themselves to death. It's just about knowing how much to feed your snake. I think I remember you saying yours was 7 months. I get onto rats as soon as I can and feed an appropriate sized rat (prob around a fuzzy for you at the moment) which will leave a bump in the belly every 5 days until the 12-18 month stage.


----------



## ThatGuyAdam (Aug 21, 2014)

[MENTION=37197]Riffherper[/MENTION]

Mine is already in a big enclosure (not overly big and has HEAPS of hides) and he is on hardwood mulch (I'm a landscaper so its easy for me to get) but will probably be reverting to paper before his first feed.
Yeah he is roughly 7 months. The place I bought it from said he was only eating pink rats so that's what I have, also have pinky mice because I planned on a getting a smaller species then a Coastal.
If I was to feed say 2 pinky mice would that be equivalent to 1 fuzzy rat? Or should I just get fuzzy and try that.


----------



## ThatGuyAdam (Aug 21, 2014)

I would evently like to put him on a substrate that mimics his natural environment and that's why I was thinking of the feeding box idea


----------



## Riffherper (Aug 21, 2014)

Yeh there's plenty of different substrate options out there - mine just suits me due to ease price and availability. Breeders/per shops will generally feed smaller items less often as every feed is a loss to them. Finish the pinkies up and if you think that it doesn't leave a bulge or the snake is still 'hunting' after being fed up the size when you next get rats. Pinky rats don't offer much in terms of nutrition as they are mostly water. Once you start to get into fuzzys and bigger the snakes start to benefit from digesting harder bones, nail and fur.


----------



## ThatGuyAdam (Aug 21, 2014)

[MENTION=37197]Riffherper[/MENTION]

Thanks for the help! I bought mine from a petshop (wont br doing that again) I didn't take into consideration that it is a cost to them to feed. Honestly thought that because they sell live mice they basically have an unlimited supply of babies lol. I also didn't realise that the large had more nutritional value. I thought it was just more meat then a pinky but it makes sense they benefit as you have mentioned.


----------



## Riffherper (Aug 21, 2014)

Don't get me wrong - home breeders feed minimal amounts too. However home breeders do have a couple of advantages over pet shops IMO for a couple of reasons. First is that pet shops tend to cost a bit more and they do not have the same variety/options. Home breeders you have a whole clutch to pick from. Pet shops have one or two of various species - in the shops I have been in anyway. Lastly, generally speaking home breeders are more knowledgable and can assist more than a pet store employee who may not even keep Herps.


----------



## ThatGuyAdam (Aug 21, 2014)

[MENTION=37197]Riffherper[/MENTION]

Basically all the cons you have mentioned is exactly why I have learnt from my mistakes. I got charged heaps. Its a nice looking snake (dont even know locale) but I saw similar at another shop about half the price I paid. I don't even know exactly how old he is. Why I asked the hatch date I got told 5-7months which is a bit vague for my liking. I didn't get told enough info or show how to handle (being a first time owner I thought I would of been more told a little more when purchasing) and they didn't have a great range of species including the species I originally wanted. Don't get me wrong Im glad I got my little guy and but I would more than likely avoid pet shops for future purchases.


----------



## Riffherper (Aug 21, 2014)

I hear you there. At the end of the day as long as you are happy with the snake that's all it comes down to  I'm sure the bug will bite and you will want more. Most snakes I've bought have been advertised on this site.


----------



## ThatGuyAdam (Aug 22, 2014)

I made some mistakes but have learnt from them. Even though I ended up with a completely different species to what I wanted I wouldn't trade him for the world! Being my first snake its kind of like my first love all over again haha


----------



## Kai92 (Aug 23, 2014)

I currently have a container I put my stimsons in to feed with a pillowcase inside. After they have eaten and go inside the pillowcase to hide I lift the pillowcase out and place it inside the enclosure. Leave that in there until they decide to move on. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lawra (Aug 23, 2014)

Kai92 said:


> I currently have a container I put my stimsons in to feed with a pillowcase inside. After they have eaten and go inside the pillowcase to hide I lift the pillowcase out and place it inside the enclosure. Leave that in there until they decide to move on.



Just out of curiosity: why?


----------



## Riffherper (Aug 23, 2014)

To each their own - that just seems like a whole lot of unnecessary work especially for larger collections


----------



## fthomson1 (Aug 24, 2014)

Thanks guys! I also am new and have read not to handle them after a feed so was confused about taking him out of his enclosure to feed.


----------



## Snow_Wolf_Black (Aug 25, 2014)

*Dangle*



fthomson1 said:


> Thanks guys! I also am new and have read not to handle them after a feed so was confused about taking him out of his enclosure to feed.



I am very new to snake ownership, but thought I'd add my cents. Breeder said not to dangle the prey to illicit a strike response. Someone previously eluded to this by placing feed down in a tub, but thought I'd add some extra for what it is worth.


----------



## ThatGuyAdam (Aug 26, 2014)

[MENTION=40776]Cyberia5658[/MENTION]

First feed completed! I didn't dangle the prey item just let him check it out held it in a spot he could reach and constrict and then his instincts did the rest lol


----------



## Snow_Wolf_Black (Aug 26, 2014)

ThatGuyAdam said:


> @Cyberia5658
> 
> First feed completed! I didn't dangle the prey item just let him check it out held it in a spot he could reach and constrict and then his instincts did the rest lol



Awesome, quite satisfying knowing your pet is feeding.


----------



## ThatGuyAdam (Aug 26, 2014)

Don't worry so am I! Only had pinkies though so he smashed em! (Fed him 2 because of small size). 

Also can anyone out there explain what "hunting behaviour" would look like generally. I want to make sure my snake is well fed and not still looking for prey.


----------



## Lawra (Aug 28, 2014)

Snow_Wolf_Black said:


> I am very new to snake ownership, but thought I'd add my cents. Breeder said not to dangle the prey to illicit a strike response. Someone previously eluded to this by placing feed down in a tub, but thought I'd add some extra for what it is worth.



What is the reason for not doing that?


----------



## Riffherper (Aug 29, 2014)

I'm a dangler. One of the many fun/interesting parts of snake ownership. I also find that it makes difficult feeders more likely to strike, constrict, swallow and keep the prey down. Hunting behavior - poking head around different parts of enclosure, getting in a strike pose, shaking/shivering whilst in a strike pose, striking at moving objects as well as behavior which may in other cases be described as cage defensiveness. Some snakes will display this behavior even when they have been fed a sufficient amount. It's therefore best to know what size and how often to feed. As I said earlier, at this age give a prey item large enough to leave a small bump and feed every 5 - 7 days.


----------



## Beans (Aug 30, 2014)

I dangle too. I try to mimic life but normally my darwin is on it before I can really make it look alive. When she latches on I pull it a little just to make things interesting for her 

Iv'e also ALWAYS fed her in the tank aswell, and she can tell the difference between my hands and food. I don't personally like the idea of having to move her back to the enclosure with a gut full of big rat. Feeding inside or outside it's up to you and I don't think it makes too much of a difference.


----------



## Lawra (Aug 30, 2014)

Beans said:


> When she latches on I pull it a little just to make things interesting for her



Oh my! This statement demands MANY inappropriate responses...


----------



## Beans (Aug 30, 2014)

Really wish you would just stop with the idiotic responses. I don't have to explain myself to you but I guess I will. When I say I pull it a JUST A TINY BIT to imitate a struggle. I don't go ripping out out of her mouth. 

-_- you just love to argue so guess I'll just leave it there


----------



## davies.ads (Aug 30, 2014)

I think she was talking innuendo.. Awkward.. [emoji41]


----------



## Lawra (Aug 30, 2014)

davies.ads said:


> I think she was talking innuendo.. Awkward.. [emoji41]


Right on the money. [MENTION=38897]Beans[/MENTION] chill out and have a laugh


----------

