# New Enclosure



## Alchemy (Sep 16, 2013)

Hey,
I'm into saving money were I can so here is my new project we knocked this out today so here it is.





Bottom an sides Being secured.




Sides, back, Bottom in place.




Basking Lamp 150w $9 bunnings Special.




Enclosure built Testing the Light. Needing doors now.


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## Lawra (Sep 16, 2013)

Great work  I like it.

One quick tip: run a bead of silicone around the inside joins to prevent moisture (aka poop) from seeping in.

Can't wait to see it finished!


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## sharky (Sep 16, 2013)

Awesome  What species is going in there?

+1 with the silicone as Lawra mentioned


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## Tinky (Sep 16, 2013)

1) Is it waterproof
2) How are you controlling the temp
3) Don't forget Vents
4) The light going on and off will drive you nuts, (if on a thermostat, and if not how are you controlling temp when light is off)
5) Thinking that it is for Bearded Dragons. If it is far a snake you will need a cage around the light to prevent them burning themselves on the bulb
6) a raised lip at the front to keep the substrate inside the enclosure is always a good idea.


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## Virides (Sep 16, 2013)

Also add a section of material to the top so that the top doesn't sag - as it is already. This sag will pinch the glass panels and make them hard to open.

Also as I assume this will have sliding glass, I recommend the use of finger grips for the glass. This will ensure you greatly minimise the occurrence of finger/hand smudges meaning that you don't have to clean the glass as often (if at all) and they look good too - Shop | Virides

Here are a couple of examples:

The Pogona





The Aspidites


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## Alchemy (Sep 16, 2013)

Hey,
ok temp control is a thermostat, Snake Woma Python, thanks for the silicon advice I will do that tomorrow, Door Dual Doors Opening Out wards Glass inlays. And Locked to prevent my little Girl Playing with the Snakes. The temp when tested today stayed at around 30.5c I'm told this is ok? It is a Laminated Mdf board that's water Resistant.
cheers for the support.


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## Lawra (Sep 16, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> Hey,
> ok temp control is a thermostat, Snake Woma Python, thanks for the silicon advice I will do that tomorrow, Door Dual Doors Opening Out wards Glass inlays. And Locked to prevent my little Girl Playing with the Snakes. The temp when tested today stayed at around 30.5c I'm told this is ok? It is a Laminated Mdf board that's water Resistant.
> cheers for the support.



Womas need a hotter warm side, I keep mine at 34 degrees. Make sure you have a good temp gradient and vents (low on hot side, high on cool side) and invest in a hygrometer - it's worth it!

Other than that... I'd suggest getting a red bulb or CHE. White light are for lizards, not pythons.

Edit: Just one woma is going in there... Right?


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## Rlpreston (Sep 16, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> Hey,
> ok temp control is a thermostat, Snake Woma Python, thanks for the silicon advice I will do that tomorrow, Door Dual Doors Opening Out wards Glass inlays. And Locked to prevent my little Girl Playing with the Snakes. The temp when tested today stayed at around 30.5c I'm told this is ok? It is a Laminated Mdf board that's water Resistant.
> cheers for the support.




Don't forget, the temp will be affected once the doors are on. Best to set the thermostat up well to take care of that 

And as above, ventilation for the enclosure and caging for any globes are a must.

Good luck with the build 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Alchemy (Sep 16, 2013)

It's a big enclosure 4-2-2 I haven't finished yet lol. I'm hoping the local authority let me upgrade soon so I can get some King Browns, Death Adders, Tigers. When I upgrade to that licence The cages will have 2 door locks Top bar an bottom bar to hold the doors shut incase. Those will have padlocks attached.


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## Rlpreston (Sep 16, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> It's a big enclosure 4-2-2 I haven't finished yet lol. I'm hoping the local authority let me upgrade soon so I can get some King Browns, Death Adders, Tigers. When I upgrade to that licence The cages will have 2 door locks Top bar an bottom bar to hold the doors shut incase. Those will have padlocks attached.



We're almost done with two 1200x 900 x 600's. It's very rewarding to build yourself 


Please forgive my ignorance, what are the requirements for upgrade (licence I assume)? 

In Vic I can keep all those species on my advanced licence and have never held a basic licence, just paid a higher fee.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## The_Geeza (Sep 16, 2013)

:facepalm:


Alchemy said:


> It's a big enclosure 4-2-2 I haven't finished yet lol. I'm hoping the local authority let me upgrade soon so I can get some King Browns, Death Adders, Tigers. When I upgrade to that licence The cages will have 2 door locks Top bar an bottom bar to hold the doors shut incase. Those will have padlocks attached.


Okidoki :facepalm:


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## Alchemy (Sep 16, 2013)

REPTILES AND AMPHIBIANS THAT MAY BE KEPT AS PETS :-
Category 1 No species.
Category 2
Egernia napoleonis South-Western Crevice Egernia
Gehyra variegata Tree Dtella
Heteronotia binoei Binoe’s Gecko
Litoria caerulea Northern Green Tree Frog
Litoria moorei Western Green Tree Frog
Pogona minor minor Western Bearded Dragon
Strophurus ciliaris Northern Spiny-tailed Gecko
Strophurus spinigerus South-west Spiny-tailed Gecko
Tiliqua multifasciata Centralian Bluetongue
Tiliqua occipitalis Western Bluetongue
Tiliqua rugosa rugosa Bobtail

Category 3
Antaresia stimsoni Stimson’s Python
Chelodina oblonga Oblong Tortoise
Ctenophorus reticulatus Western Netted Dragon
Egernia kingii King Skink
Litoria splendida Magnificent Tree Frog
Morelia spilota imbricata South-western Carpet Python
Nephrurus levis Three-lined Knob-tailed Gecko
Oedura marmorata Marbled Velvet Gecko
Underwoodisaurus milii Thick-tailed Gecko
Varanus caudolineatus Stripe-tailed Pygmy Monitor
Category 4
Antaresia perthensis Pygmy Python
Aspidites melanocephalus Black-headed python
Aspidites ramsayi Woma Python
Chelodina steindachneri Flat-shelled Turtle
Chlamydosaurus kingi Frilled Lizard
Heleioporus albopunctatus Western Spotted Frog
Lophognathus longirostris Long-nosed Ta-ta Dragon
Liasis mackloti/Liasis fuscus Water Python
Morelia spilota variegata Northwest Carpet Python
Varanus acanthurus Ridge-tailed Monitor
Varanus brevicauda Short-tailed Pygmy Monitor
Varanus tristis tristis Black-tailed Monitor


Category 5
Acanthopis antarcticus Southern Death Adder
Acanthopis pyrrhus Desert Death Adder
Acanthopis wellsi Pilbara Death Adder
Boiga irregularis Brown Tree Snake
Liasis olivaceus Olive Python
Morelia carinata Rough-scaled Python
Notechis scutatus Tiger Snake
Pseudechis australis Mulga Snake
Pseudechis butleri Spotted Mulga Snake
Pseudonaja affinis affinis Dugite
Pseudonaja nuchalis Gwardar
Varanus gouldii Gould’s Monitor
Varanus rosenbergi Southern Heath Monitor


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## Alchemy (Sep 17, 2013)

I was going to keep Pair of Woma's together. Right now just my baby will have this enclosure, as for ventilation maybe 2 computer Fans at each end to keep the air flowing through. The Light is a Flood light hence the white Colour, under advisement from a reptile park I have been told a Uv Light for Woma's is a must due to there activities in the wild. They like to move during the day and require some uv. 
Still to go in Hide Box, Substrate possibly, Doors lol, Vents.


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## andynic07 (Sep 17, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> I was going to keep Pair of Woma's together. Right now just my baby will have this enclosure, as for ventilation maybe 2 computer Fans at each end to keep the air flowing through. The Light is a Flood light hence the white Colour, under advisement from a reptile park I have been told a Uv Light for Woma's is a must due to there activities in the wild. They like to move during the day and require some uv.
> Still to go in Hide Box, Substrate possibly, Doors lol, Vents.


I would use vents only rather than fans or you will find it hard to keep a good temperature gradient and also your enclosure will dry out leading to bad sheds. I would make sure as stated above that you cage your heat source so your snake does not get burnt. I have never heard of a woma python needing uv light and do not use one for my woma python. Also woma pythons eat reptiles so I would not keep more than one in your enclosure or you might end up with one or none.


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## Alchemy (Sep 17, 2013)

So how does the reptile Center keep 2 in the same enclosure? I housed 3 BHP together with no trouble I'm asking to better my knowledge


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## Virides (Sep 17, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> So how does the reptile Center keep 2 in the same enclosure? I housed 3 BHP together with no trouble I'm asking to better my knowledge



The general idea is that you don't want to create a sense of competition among the snakes. In the wild it isn't necessarily happy families. So by keeping them housed separately you eliminate the risk of damage caused by fighting/competing for resources.


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## Lawra (Sep 17, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> I was going to keep Pair of Woma's together. Right now just my baby will have this enclosure, as for ventilation maybe 2 computer Fans at each end to keep the air flowing through. The Light is a Flood light hence the white Colour, under advisement from a reptile park I have been told a Uv Light for Woma's is a must due to there activities in the wild. They like to move during the day and require some uv.
> Still to go in Hide Box, Substrate possibly, Doors lol, Vents.



What activities in the wild indicate *their* need for UV? 

Most of what you've said is contrary to research I've done. I'm interested to read the facts from your source/s.


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## andynic07 (Sep 17, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> So how does the reptile Center keep 2 in the same enclosure? I housed 3 BHP together with no trouble I'm asking to better my knowledge


What reptile centre keeps multiple woma's or bhp's in the same enclosure? These two species are renowned for eating other reptiles hence why they have less heat pits. If you were to keep two of these species together ideally you would want a very large enclosure not the size that you are talking about and provide multiple basking areas and cool hides for the snakes to keep away from each other and keep them fed which can lead to other problems like fatty liver disease. I suggested that you not keep them together because it is the best option for someone without a lot of experience or knowledge of the species.


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## Alchemy (Sep 17, 2013)

Armidale Reptile Center in perth. Now for my personal experience I had BHP's 3 to be exact 1 male 2 females they lived together for quite sometime with no trouble. Keep in mind the male was 6ft the female was 5ft the other female was 4ft. Feeding wasn't a problem you just made sure you got each individuals attention first. So I'm going to have to build multiple enclosures.


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## andynic07 (Sep 17, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> Armidale Reptile Center in perth. Now for my personal experience I had BHP's 3 to be exact 1 male 2 females they lived together for quite sometime with no trouble. Keep in mind the male was 6ft the female was 5ft the other female was 4ft. Feeding wasn't a problem you just made sure you got each individuals attention first. So I'm going to have to build multiple enclosures.


Up to you mate, if you think you have the skills and knowledge and enclosure to house multiple aspidites together you can because they are your snakes but I would not recommend it.


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## Alchemy (Sep 17, 2013)

I am asking questions so I know for future reference the only thing that concerns me is rising power costs. Hence why I looked at housing Pairs Together. At the moment I just have one baby coming so its got all the room in the world.


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## Lawra (Sep 17, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> I am asking questions so I know for future reference the only thing that concerns me is rising power costs. Hence why I looked at housing Pairs Together. At the moment I just have one baby coming so its got all the room in the world.



Talk about rising power costs when it's not even summer and you already have to run the air con all day to keep your herps at the right temp coz it's too hot :/


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## crocodile_dan (Sep 17, 2013)

If you are concerned about rising power cost your choice of a 150W light is a very inefficient method of providing heat. A much smaller wattage globe or different method of heating all together will be cheaper to operate and still obtain the required temperatures.

There are a multitude of threads regarding housing reptiles communally versus individually, which can be found via a search. Basically it can be done but there are inherent risks associated.

If financial burden is a concern then I don't mean to be condescending but the cost of an injured/dead animal (not only financial but emotional) would outweigh the cost associated of separate housing.

From what I read of your comment you are obtaining a "baby" whilst again it is achievable to house such age individual in a 'larger' enclosure there may be issues faced. I'm not suggesting you need to change anything but understanding the theory behind housing juvenile pythons in 'click-clacks' may be beneficial incase you experience any difficulty.

Anyone who gives you advice or recommendations should be able to justify it, be that a wildlife park or a member on a forum.


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## RedFox (Sep 17, 2013)

Alchemy what paper did you get your info from. I would love a link as it seems to contradict a lot of what I have read. 

Firstly, Womas are nocturnal and UV while it gives a nice viewing light it isn't necessary. Don't expect to see all that much movement during the day from adults. 

All of mine have an insane feeding response. If you feel confidence enough to keep them in pairs be my guess but I would definitely be too nervous. Especially in a 4x2x2 which is normally the bare minimum for 1 adult. 

I would probably only consider housing carpets together. Aspidites are well known to be reptile eaters. 

As for saving money, get rid of the spot light and invest in 25w heat cords. Each enclosure costs less a dollar a week to run. Or consider selling some animals.


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## RedFox (Sep 17, 2013)

Lawra said:


> Talk about rising power costs when it's not even summer and you already have to run the air con all day to keep your herps at the right temp coz it's too hot :/



Lawra how hot does it get in your house? Up here the last few days have being really hot and humid but in the house the temp has stayed constant at 29. 

Is your house tiled? I moved all my guys onto the ground as tiles are always that bit cooler. Temps are now 27 cool end, 34 hotspot. 

No need for aircon yet, they are hardy animals. If you are concerned you could freeze a 2 or 3 L milk/juice bottle, wrap some tea towels around it and put it in the cool end.


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## Lawra (Sep 17, 2013)

RedFox said:


> Lawra how hot does it get in your house? Up here the last few days have being really hot and humid but in the house the temp has stayed constant at 29.
> 
> Is your house tiled? I moved all my guys onto the ground as tiles are always that bit cooler. Temps are now 27 cool end, 34 hotspot.
> 
> No need for aircon yet, they are hardy animals. If you are concerned you could freeze a 2 or 3 L milk/juice bottle, wrap some tea towels around it and put it in the cool end.



I might try the frozen drink idea. This week even with a nice breeze through the house it has been 36 degrees at about 11am. We are in a crappy rental with no insulation and I'm worried about them not being able to retreat to a cooler area. Their hot spots are set to 34 degrees 24/7 as they're both still babies. Planning to have day/night temps from 1 year old. 

Tiles... There are tiles in the kitchen, the rest is Lino, but one enclosure is fixed (built into a wardrobe sort of) so can't be moved around the house without two people at least. The little fish tank actually gets hotter than the melamine and perspex enclosure for some reason and is moveable so I might try that tomorrow.


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## Virides (Sep 18, 2013)

With how hot your house gets Lawra, do you ever consider not worrying about heating the enclosure? If you have already tried and it failed, all good. Maybe you could offset the cost of the AC with the savings on the lamps etc.  But I guess, it would be hard to rely on.


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## Lawra (Sep 18, 2013)

Virides said:


> With how hot your house gets Lawra, do you ever consider not worrying about heating the enclosure? If you have already tried and it failed, all good. Maybe you could offset the cost of the AC with the savings on the lamps etc.  But I guess, it would be hard to rely on.



I did try not having the heat on at all during the day but still found I needed more cooling (36 degrees measured was with no heat plugged in). I am definitely going to try frozen bottles in the cool side which will hopefully mean no heating and no air con too!


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## andynic07 (Sep 18, 2013)

Virides said:


> With how hot your house gets Lawra, do you ever consider not worrying about heating the enclosure? If you have already tried and it failed, all good. Maybe you could offset the cost of the AC with the savings on the lamps etc.  But I guess, it would be hard to rely on.



Probably looking at 2000watt air conditioner compared to a 50watt heating element, not really much of an offset. Also I am sure the thermostat would have the heating element off with those sorts of ambient temperatures.


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## Alchemy (Sep 18, 2013)

Where can I get some Flow Coat or gel coat to seal the laminate.


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## Lawra (Sep 18, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> Where can I get some Flow Coat or gel coat to seal the laminate.



I think you got your wires crossed somewhere...


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## Alchemy (Sep 18, 2013)

Not really Gel coat is use on boats to ensure Water proofing an extra Strengh against we're and tear.


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## andynic07 (Sep 18, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> Not really Gel coat is use on boats to ensure Water proofing an extra Strengh against we're and tear.



I believe gel coat is very hard to work with but if you want to try using it look for fibreglass supply shops locally or possibly eBay.


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## Lawra (Sep 18, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> Not really Gel coat is use on boats to ensure Water proofing an extra Strengh against we're and tear.



Yes over applied laminate not pre laminated board. It's really not necessary. You said you were trying to do it as cheaply as possible so I'm a bit confused as to why you'd want to use it.


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## Alchemy (Sep 18, 2013)

It's more to make sure it lasts. Cheap not a skill I'm good with. This project is getting there I got the silicon today so I will do it tonight.


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## Alchemy (Sep 21, 2013)

And My new Baby has Arrived.


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## pinefamily (Sep 22, 2013)

Alchemy, what state are you in, with those reptile categories?


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## andynic07 (Sep 22, 2013)

Alchemy said:


> And My new Baby has Arrived.


Nice looking woma mate.


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## Alchemy (Sep 22, 2013)

pinefamily said:


> Alchemy, what state are you in, with those reptile categories?


Western Australia


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## pinefamily (Sep 22, 2013)

I didn't realize there was such a difference between the states in permits. Here in SA, there are only three categories: exempt (no permit required), basic (basic permit), and specialised (specialised permit). And if anyone only has one of anything off the basic list, they don't need a permit.


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## RedFox (Sep 22, 2013)

Wa is a bit special when it comes to licensing. And by special I mean very strict and expensive. All the states vary though.


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## Alchemy (Sep 23, 2013)

So here is the list and Prices for the Catorgorys in Wa. It is worth noting you can't keep anything not stated on this list.
REPTILES AND AMPHIBIANS THAT MAY BE KEPT AS PETS :-
Category 1 No species.
Category 2
Egernia napoleonis South-Western Crevice Egernia
Gehyra variegata Tree Dtella
Heteronotia binoei Binoe’s Gecko
Litoria caerulea Northern Green Tree Frog
Litoria moorei Western Green Tree Frog
Pogona minor minor Western Bearded Dragon
Strophurus ciliaris Northern Spiny-tailed Gecko
Strophurus spinigerus South-west Spiny-tailed Gecko
Tiliqua multifasciata Centralian Bluetongue
Tiliqua occipitalis Western Bluetongue
Tiliqua rugosa rugosa Bobtail


Category 3
Antaresia stimsoni Stimson’s Python
Chelodina oblonga Oblong Tortoise
Ctenophorus reticulatus Western Netted Dragon
Egernia kingii King Skink
Litoria splendida Magnificent Tree Frog
Morelia spilota imbricata South-western Carpet Python
Nephrurus levis Three-lined Knob-tailed Gecko
Oedura marmorata Marbled Velvet Gecko
Underwoodisaurus milii Thick-tailed Gecko
Varanus caudolineatus Stripe-tailed Pygmy Monitor
Category 4
Antaresia perthensis Pygmy Python
Aspidites melanocephalus Black-headed python
Aspidites ramsayi Woma Python
Chelodina steindachneri Flat-shelled Turtle
Chlamydosaurus kingi Frilled Lizard
Heleioporus albopunctatus Western Spotted Frog
Lophognathus longirostris Long-nosed Ta-ta Dragon
Liasis mackloti/Liasis fuscus Water Python
Morelia spilota variegata Northwest Carpet Python
Varanus acanthurus Ridge-tailed Monitor
Varanus brevicauda Short-tailed Pygmy Monitor
Varanus tristis tristis Black-tailed Monitor




Category 5
Acanthopis antarcticus Southern Death Adder
Acanthopis pyrrhus Desert Death Adder
Acanthopis wellsi Pilbara Death Adder
Boiga irregularis Brown Tree Snake
Liasis olivaceus Olive Python
Morelia carinata Rough-scaled Python
Notechis scutatus Tiger Snake
Pseudechis australis Mulga Snake
Pseudechis butleri Spotted Mulga Snake
Pseudonaja affinis affinis Dugite
Pseudonaja nuchalis Gwardar
Varanus gouldii Gould’s Monitor
Varanus rosenbergi Southern Heath Monitor


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## Alchemy (Oct 4, 2013)

Doors have arrived, Glass is also arrived now to put it together.


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