# Newbie Information



## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

After reading Greebos start for a newbie's page I thought I would give it a go. Before I send it on to him I thought I would see what others thought, what I have missed or gotten wrong. Or anything else people think I have missed, or questions that should be added. PM me or write it up here and I'll try to edit it as best I can. 

What is the best First Snake?
You must first decide a few basic things:
1.	How large you would like the python to be when fully grown
2.	How much are you looking to spend
3.	Is it for show only or is it a pet to be handled from time to time.
Here is a rough outline of what I think are some of the better pythons for first times.

Python Species...............Size When Grown..........Average Price..................Price Low...Price High...Pet Store Price
Children’s...........................1.2m..............................$150-$260.......................$150..............$400............ $300
Spotted................................1.5m..............................$150-$260.......................$150..............$400............ $300
Stimson...............................1.0m.............................	$200-$280.......................$200..............$500............ $350
Bredli....................................3.0m.............................$290-$390....................... $250..............$1100..........N/A
Diamond.............................2.1m..............................$380-$480.......................$300..............$1200...........N/A
Carpet..................................3.3m.............................	$100-$250.......................$100..............$1000...........N/A

There are many other pythons available but these are the basics. This is just a rough guide of prices; the high end price is due to locality, colours, and patterns. Morph’s can fetch much higher prices than most other pythons and I have not priced them here as morph prices usually go into the thousands. Some species are available through pet stores, but other reptile specific stores can sell other species. 
Some python can live for more than 25Yr’s or more. So they are a long term pet. Be sure that you can fit an enclosure to fit your python when fully grown into your home.
It is sometimes more convenient to purchase an older python, as you no they are feeding well, and can see there temperament. But it can be a lot pricier. A hatchy can be hand reared and can grow with you starting out in a small enclosure which can be easier on the wallet for starting out.

What Enclosure do I keep a Hatchy in?

Hatchy’s are usually kept in Click Clacks. Click Clacks are small plastic tubs available at most Bunning’s, Supermarkets, etc. It is just any reasonable sized container with a locking lid that has no gaps where a python might be able to get out. Pythons are professional escape artists so you must ensure that there are no gaps and they can not force the lid off you would be surprised by there strength. You will need to ensure that there is sufficient ventilation by making small holes in the enclosure; I usually just drill a number of strategically placed holes. A heat mat is the best heating for a hatchy/ juvenile in my opinion as it is cheaper, and is less prone to overheating than heat cord, and lamps in a click clack can be very difficult to mount. The heat mat should cover around 1/3rd the flooring of the click clack and not more than half the flooring space. It should also be fastened to the underside of the click clack at one end. This allows a heat gradient, from one end to the other. The python can then move between the warm area and cool areas to self regulate its own temp. You will need to use some type of flooring on the bottom of the enclosure, I would suggest absorbent paper, or news paper to start off as it is cheap but professional floorings are available. You will also need at least 2 hides more if you like they will appreciate places to hide. You will need 1 hide in the warm area and 1 hide in the cool area. Sufficient water supply is also required. Remember that from time to time they may choose to curl up in there water bowl so you will regularly need to check there water. I personally scrunch up some newspaper rand then pull it out a little to put in there enclosure so that they can hide in amongst it and slither against it. They are best kept on there own in these enclosures. The exception to this is the diamond python because it requires UVA and UVB light (sun light). Although a diamond python can be kept like this, it requires a regular dose of sunlight each day, or UVA/UVB producing lights in its enclosure.

How often can I handle my python?

While they are young I would say no more than 15-20min, 4-5 times a week. Over handling them can stress them out to much and can result in feeding problems and death. As they get older they can be handled more frequently and for longer durations. After purchase of a python I try not to handle my pythons for 1-2weeks to let them settle into there new environments. After this time I feed them wait a few days after feeding and then start handling them. Avoid handling them during shedding as it is a difficult time for them, and it can split the shed making it more difficult to shed there entire slough complete.

My python won’t feed!

Most pythons will not feed when coming up to a shed, or when stressed. Firstly don’t stress, pythons can go for prolonged periods without feeding without any long term damage. If they are due for a feed but refuse when offered wait another week and try again. If you notice they are coming up to shed it is likely that they will refuse food until the shed is complete. After they have feed they will be very hungry and will often take multiple rodents. If they have gone 2 weeks past there feeding due date and are not showing signs of shedding a few things to try are:
1.	Braining: force a pin or sharp object through the skull of the rodent until juice comes out the snake will quickly pick up on the smell.
2.	Hide and Wait: leave the rodents at the entry to there hide, close the enclosure and come back in the morning. Often the rodent will be gone in the morning.
3.	Chicken Soup/Stock: dipping the rodent in chicken stock
4.	Skink Scenting: putting a skink and the rodent in a container together so the rodent takes on the smell of a skink.
5.	Check your temps
6.	Try leaving it alone for a few days prior to feeding and just place it in the enclosure and leave it alone.


Shedding Problems.

Pythons will shed there skins on a regular basis, it is part of there growth cycle. There are many signs of shedding they are:
1	White eye’s
2	Flaky skin
3	Dry skin
4	Milky colour
5	Dull colouring on the skin.
Most of the time pythons will shed an entire skin complete. From time to time this will not occur and some level of assistance will be needed by the owner/carer. During times of shedding it is advisable that you raise the humidity within the enclosure to assist them. Sometimes dry flaky skin will remain attached you should not pull it off as you may do the python damage. Using a wet tea towel, let your python slither through the tea towel moistening the snake and allowing the python to remove its skin on the tea towel. If this is not working you can soak your python in Luke warm water. The water should only be slightly above room temperature. Your python might freak out a little at first but let it swim around a little and it should settle down. A plastic fish tank with a clip on lid is perfect. Do not leave your python alone in the water as there is always the possibility they might drown. Some pythons will enjoy it so much you will have problems removing them from the water. Many pythons will also put there heads under the water and search the bottom of there pool this is normal.

Sexing Pythons

Sexing Pythons should only be done by experienced breeders and vets. It is not something that should be attempted by recreational reptile keepers.

Co-Habitating

There is much debate on wether or not you can keep pythons together in an enclosure. For most of the Antaresia Species it is not a problem as long as they are of similar size, age, and species. Diamonds and Coastal pythons have also been known to co-habitate happily. There are always risks involved in keeping pythons together there are many story’s of pythons turning on cage mates and eating them. Keeping males together may also cause them to fight, and do damage to one another or kill each other. If you do choose to keep pythons together remember to feed them separately and clean them before putting them back into the same enclosure.

Real Plants and leaves

Real tree limbs and rocks make good features and are good for your pythons climb on .They also provide abrasive surfaces to shed against and provide places to sleep, bask, and hide. Things like these need to be treated. Rocks can be baked in an oven to kill ticks, viruses, and bacteria found on these item. You can also treat them with a product known as F10 which is a designed product to treat bird and reptile items. If this is unavailable then a 1/10 mix of bleach can be used, and then rinsed clean with water.


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

O.k My columns got stuffed up a bit there.


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

Bump


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## whiteyluvsrum (Oct 28, 2006)

you got alot of spare time.


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

I'm a firey for an airfield working on a weekend not a lot happening might as well spend my time doing something constructive


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## darkangel (Oct 28, 2006)

hey that is heaps good!! well done!


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## stokedapollo (Oct 28, 2006)

thats an awsome post


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## dragons75 (Oct 28, 2006)

Good On Ya Its Good To See Some One Willing To Get The Ball Rolling


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

Need to no if it is all correct and if there are anymore questions I should answer. Trying to cover all the bases so all feed back would be good.


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## stokedapollo (Oct 28, 2006)

i like wat you have done
but with the heat matt what wattage etc
and the same for the uv lights
i havnt a clue 
but im not afraid to ask lol
some ppl might be a bit scared/worried bout asking a question that they may feel is silly?
to me tho not askin a "silly " question and ya rep gets sick or worse would look more silly so to speak
what you put there has helped me a whole lot already 
im just thinking of thing i need to ask to help with your post as im a nooob lol


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

That would all come down to size of enclosure, a big click clack will need more juice, where as a smaller one will need less. The heat mat size required will have a preset up wattage required to run it. UVA and UVB can also have a lot of variables, so you would need more info to figure that one out.


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## stokedapollo (Oct 28, 2006)

ok cool
so once a person has there enclosure size it can be worked out then ?


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

Approx. 1/3 the enclosure for a heat mat


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## Ktngrl (Oct 28, 2006)

wow great info.


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## SlothHead (Oct 28, 2006)

I like what you have done Mayo, 

The only thing that i was thinking,

Rather than your first point of "how large would you like the python"

Maybe change to how much room do you have maximum that you can utilise for care of the animal. Knowing the avalable space will therefore predict the size of the animal that you would be feasibly able to keep comfortably

D


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

Good point Kali I'll try to re word it better.


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

I've added temps, info on illness OPMV/ IBD /Pneumonia/ ticks/ mites, working on substraights.


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

Bump


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

Should I take it that no one has anything further to add


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## stokedapollo (Oct 28, 2006)

i cant think of anything lol


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## Whisper2 (Oct 28, 2006)

hey that is great.

thanks for pointing me in that direction. 
i tend to over-complicate things but everything on ur post makes sense.
still dont no much about lighting for larger enlosures once again but 
that is getting more detailed. what you have there on it though is brilliant!!

 belle


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

Feeding advice will also be added (what size they can take)


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## cris (Oct 28, 2006)

Good work Mayo 
I think the next thing to work on is a list of things not to do.
Here are a few i can think of
- dont use tape in a snake enclosure
- dont feed snakes together
hmm having trouble thinking now, but there are heaps of things not to do.

Also quarantining new animals is important.
Pics of setups would be a good idea too.
Also add MDs to the list of snakes they usually cost about $150-$250.
It might also be good to have another list of some less suitable beginers snakes and a basic explanation of why they are not generally suitable such as jungles, GTPs etc.


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## spottie (Oct 28, 2006)

make it a sticky. that is if u sick of the newone asking about just one thing. greebo makie it stick this post


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

Good points there Cris have added the MD's and once I have all the info I will add the pics. Will start on the do not's in due course but this is only a 24 hr shift at work and I will have to get some other work done tonight. It has grown by a few pages already, but I'll give it a few more days and then put up my revised edition to see what ideas people have then.

Lets keep these ideas coming.


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## JandC_Reptiles (Oct 28, 2006)

Alot of great info for newbies Mayo, well done.
But I would also add a Murray Darling to the list.
I have found the majority of MD's I have dealt with to be the BEST snakes ever for 1st timers.
I am yet to find an aggressive one (although I am sure they do exist)


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

Once I have a completed copy Spottie I'll hand it to greebo in the form of a word document with pictures etc


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## cris (Oct 28, 2006)

It also needs meanings for common acronyms like IMO, BHP etc.(both reptile and general internet ones)


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

I avoided using those for that reason. I think someone has already done one soomewhere, I'll see if I can find it and revise it.


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## Rastass (Oct 28, 2006)

Mayo, that is absolutley brilliant. Please do not take my following suggestions as me thinking the job you have done is anything other than spectacular. Of course, you may have already covered a number of my suggestions but hey, this is Saturday night now. But anyway........

In your opening area you have mentioned that people should consider the adult housing requirements. perhaps you should give a recommendation for adult housing size for each snake. Eg. Coastal Carpet Python 1200hx1200lx600w

I would personally like to see Diamond Pythons taken out of the list as I think that too many beginners get them without understanding their particular housing requirements. If you are going to keep diamonds in there then please also mention that UV light can not be provided through glass. Glass filters out oll the good stuff. Also, 1 hour a week of natural sunlight is adequate.

In the pricing section you talked about morphs. I dont think newbies will know what that means. Perhaps you could add a small explanation like "morphs (such as albinos and other colour variations)".

In the feeding bit you mention that pythons can go for "long periods" without food. Perhaps you should quantify this by saying "long periods, even up to several months". To many newbies, two weeks without food is an extremely long period. They feed every other animal they own daily.

Perhaps you could also add some hints for buying a snake. Such as..Ensure it is feeding, obtain a feeding/shedding history...Don't necessarily buy the quiet one. Fiesty ones may be better feeders. etc etc

Quarantine is good but if it is your first snake.......

In the bit about keeping snakes together I think you should stress the "don't feed together" bit a little more. Mention that after one snake grabs the food the other may smell it and try to grab it and coil around the first snake and you end up with one snake trying to kill the other.

Cris' suggestion about the "Dont's" is also great but maybe add a little bit about why. EG. dont put tape in snake cages because the snakes will eventually get stuck to the tape if it comes loose. Many snakes have died from this.

Again mate, your effort is brilliant. I hope my Saturday night rantings have added just a little bit to an awesome post.


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## Rastass (Oct 28, 2006)

Original glossary post

http://www.aussiepythons.com/showthread.php?t=31792&highlight=glossary


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## Tatelina (Oct 28, 2006)

Mayo said:


> I'm a firey for an airfield working on a weekend not a lot happening might as well spend my time doing something constructive



exactly! Thanks for that... excellent idea! *thumbs up*


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

Thanks for that rastass that is enzactly what I'm afterTrying to put as much of that in as I can.
Trying to get some input from the mods at some point. I'm sure they should have some ideas for me.


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## snakes4me2 (Oct 28, 2006)

Mayo said:


> I avoided using those for that reason. I think someone has already done one soomewhere, I'll see if I can find it and revise it.


 
here is another one he did a short time ago

http://www.aussiepythons.com/showthread.php?t=38244


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## Rastass (Oct 28, 2006)

perhaps Mayo can fix the columns.


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

I think I'll try to set up an abreaviations page seperatly. I want to keep it as simple as possible for the newbies. It, up to 6 pages now and I haven't added pic's yet so if I put to much more into it, it will be to long. Should I repost what I have done now.


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## snakes4me2 (Oct 28, 2006)

might as well give us a look at ya handy work


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## Mayo (Oct 28, 2006)

*revised*

The new updated version:

What is the best First Snake?
You must first decide a few basic things:
1.	How large you would like the python to be when fully grown
2.	How much are you looking to spend
3.	Is it for show only or is it a pet to be handled from time to time.
Here is a rough outline of what I think are some of the better pythons for first times.

Python Species..........	Size When Grown..........	Average Price..........	Price Low..........	Price High..........	Pet Store Price
Children’s........................1.2m.............................	$150-$260....................	$150..........	..........$400..........	.....$300
Spotted.............................1.5m................................$150-$260....................	$150..........	..........$400..........	.....$300
Stimson............................1.0m...............................	$200-$280....................	$200..........	..........$500..........	.....$350
Bredli.................................3.0m..............................	$290-$390	.....................$250..........	..........$1100..........	.....N/A
Diamond..........................2.1m..............................	$380-$480....................	$300..........	..........$1200..........	.....N/A
Carpet...............................3.3m..............................	$100-$250	....................$100.........	..........$1000..........	.....N/A
Murray Darlings...............2.4m.............................	$150-$250	....................$150	....................$600..........	.....N/A

There are many other pythons available but these are the basics. This is just a rough guide of prices; the high end price is due to locality, colours, and patterns. Morph’s can fetch much higher prices than most other pythons and I have not priced them here as morph prices usually go into the thousands, morph’s are pythons like the albino, or have different markings than normal. Some species are available through pet stores, but other reptile specific stores can sell other species. 
Some python can live for more than 25Yr’s or more. So they are a long term pet. Be sure that you can fit an enclosure to fit your python when fully grown into your home.
It is sometimes more convenient to purchase an older python, as you no they are feeding well, and can see there temperament. But it can be a lot pricier. A hatchy can be hand reared and can grow with you starting out in a small enclosure which can be easier on the wallet for starting out. There end enclosure should be half there length, by quarter of there length, by quarter of there length minimum. Larger the better in the end, as they will appreciate the room when fully grown.

Purchasing Your First Python

When purchasing your first python you should take great care in choosing. You should ensure that the python is feeding well, if in doubt, ask to come on a feeding day to see it being feed. This will also show you how to feed the python as well. With your python you should get a feeding, Shedding, and maybe even a defecation history. You would not be out of line to ask to see the parents. You can then see what markings the parents have and there temperament. Also check the snake over and handle it a little, as hatches they may be feisty and bite but it doesn’t hurt, it’s more a shock the first time. If something look’s wrong with the python there may be something wrong with the python. Follow your instincts with health, regardless of what you are told be the seller.

What Enclosure do I keep a Hatchy in?

Hatchy’s are usually kept in Click Clacks. Click Clacks are small plastic tubs available at most Bunning’s, Supermarkets, etc. It is just any reasonable sized container with a locking lid that has no gaps where a python might be able to get out. Pythons are professional escape artists so you must ensure that there are no gaps and they can not force the lid off you would be surprised by there strength. You will need to ensure that there is sufficient ventilation by making small holes in the enclosure; I usually just drill a number of strategically placed holes. A heat mat is the best heating for a hatchy/ juvenile in my opinion as it is cheaper, and is less prone to overheating than heat cord, and lamps in a click clack can be very difficult to mount. The heat mat should cover around 1/3rd the flooring of the click clack and not more than half the flooring space. It should also be fastened to the underside of the click clack at one end. This allows a heat gradient, from one end to the other. Your aim should be to have a warm end of approx 30-32 degrees celcius, and a cool end of around 24 degrees Celsius the python can then move between the warm area and cool areas to self regulate its own temp. You will need to use some type of flooring on the bottom of the enclosure, I would suggest absorbent paper, or news paper to start off as it is cheap but professional floorings are available. You will also need at least 2 hides more if you like they will appreciate places to hide. You will need 1 hide in the warm area and 1 hide in the cool area. Sufficient water supply is also required. Remember that from time to time they may choose to curl up in there water bowl so you will regularly need to check there water. I personally scrunch up some newspaper rand then pull it out a little to put in there enclosure so that they can hide in amongst it and slither against it. They are best kept on there own in these enclosures.

The exception to this is the diamond python because it requires UVA and UVB light (sun light). This can not be achieved through glass as the glass filters out the much needed UV light. Although a diamond python can be kept like this, it requires a regular dose of sunlight each day for at least 1 hr a week, or UVA/UVB producing lights in its enclosure. There temps are much cooler than most other Aussie pythons with a warm end at 27degrees celcius, and a cool end of 20 degrees celcius.

How often can I handle my python?

While they are young I would say no more than 15-20min, 4-5 times a week. Over handling them can stress them out to much and can result in feeding problems and death. As they get older they can be handled more frequently and for longer durations. After purchase of a python I try not to handle my pythons for 1-2weeks to let them settle into there new environments. After this time I feed them wait a few days after feeding and then start handling them. Avoid handling them during shedding as it is a difficult time for them, and it can split the shed making it more difficult to shed there entire slough complete.

My python won’t feed!

Most pythons will not feed when coming up to a shed, or when stressed. Firstly don’t stress, pythons can go for prolonged periods without feeding without any long term damage. An adult python can go for several months or more without feeding and younger pythons can easily go for 4-6 week’s. If they are due for a feed but refuse when offered wait another week and try again. If you notice they are coming up to shed it is likely that they will refuse food until the shed is complete. After they have feed they will be very hungry and will often take multiple rodents. If they have gone 2 weeks past there feeding due date and are not showing signs of shedding a few things to try are:
1.	Braining: force a pin or sharp object through the skull of the rodent until juice comes out the snake will quickly pick up on the smell.
2.	Hide and Wait: leave the rodents at the entry to there hide, close the enclosure and come back in the morning. Often the rodent will be gone in the morning.
3.	Chicken Soup/Stock: dipping the rodent in chicken stock
4.	Skink Scenting: putting a skink and the rodent in a container together so the rodent takes on the smell of a skink.
5.	Check your temps
6.	Try leaving it alone for a few days prior to feeding and just place it in the enclosure and leave it alone.

What can they eat? Size? Diversity?

Captive pythons are mainly feed a diet of frozen rodents, mice, rats, and rabbits being the most common. It is advised that frozen or pre killed prey be feed to your pythons as many accidents have happened where the mice or rats have killed or damaged the python. A python can eat prey up to 3 times the size of there head and it is advised to feed them prey approx. 2 times the size of there head. Part of a pythons growth requires that they eat this large prey so that they dislocate there jaws, and the skin at the front of the jaws learns to stretch. A young python should be feed approx every 7-14 days and as they get older it should become less frequent. Adult pythons should be feed approx every 3-4 weeks. Over feeding can lead to pin head syndrome. That is where there body continues to grow but the head does not. This can be very detrimental to there health and a sever diet would be recommended. Some people choose to give there pythons treats from time to time. Chickens, or pieces of chicken uncooked, fish, and raw meat, are the most common. 


Shedding Problems.

Pythons will shed there skins on a regular basis, it is part of there growth cycle. There are many signs of shedding they are:
1	White eye’s
2	Flaky skin
3	Dry skin
4	Milky colour
5	Dull colouring on the skin.
Most of the time pythons will shed an entire skin complete. From time to time this will not occur and some level of assistance will be needed by the owner/carer. During times of shedding it is advisable that you raise the humidity within the enclosure to assist them. Sometimes dry flaky skin will remain attached you should not pull it off as you may do the python damage. Using a wet tea towel, let your python slither through the tea towel moistening the snake and allowing the python to remove its skin on the tea towel. If this is not working you can soak your python in Luke warm water. The water should only be slightly above room temperature. Your python might freak out a little at first but let it swim around a little and it should settle down. A plastic fish tank with a clip on lid is perfect. Do not leave your python alone in the water as there is always the possibility they might drown. Some pythons will enjoy it so much you will have problems removing them from the water. Many pythons will also put there heads under the water and search the bottom of there pool this is normal.

Sexing Pythons

Sexing Pythons should only be done by experienced breeders and vets. It is not something that should be attempted by recreational reptile keepers.

Co-Habitating

There is much debate on wether or not you can keep pythons together in an enclosure. For most of the Antaresia Species it is not a problem as long as they are of similar size, age, and species. Diamonds and Coastal pythons have also been known to co-habitate happily. There are always risks involved in keeping pythons together there are many story’s of pythons turning on cage mates and eating them. Keeping males together may also cause them to fight, and do damage to one another or kill each other. If you do choose to keep pythons together remember to feed them separately and clean them before putting them back into the same enclosure. If feed together they can start eating the same prey, and one may eat the other, it comes down to who get’s there jaws over the top of the other first and they will just continue to eat the other python. Don’t feed your pythons together.

Real Plants and leaves

Real tree limbs and rocks make good features and are good for your pythons climb on .They also provide abrasive surfaces to shed against and provide places to sleep, bask, and hide. Things like these need to be treated. Rocks can be baked in an oven to kill ticks, viruses, and bacteria found on these item. You can also treat them with a product known as F10 which is a designed product to treat bird and reptile items. If this is unavailable then a 1/10 mix of bleach can be used, and then rinsed clean with water.


Illness / Sickness / Health

There are 2 major diseases that are causing concern amongst the herp community they are OPMV and IBD. Here is a brief description of the symptoms would be. Respiratory problems laying on side/back panting having problems breathing, starry eyed look and convulsions. This is a deadly and highly contagious disease; any python found with these symptoms should be quarantined, taken to a vet and reported. Pneumonia is a more common problem amongst beginner reptile keepers. It is caused by stress, cold, and high humidity. Ticks and mites also can harm your pythons and would show up between there scales. A regular check of your python should find most ticks and mites.

Sub straight

There are many different flooring sub straights available. Here are a few of the Pros and cons of some of the more common types available.
Astroturf: Although it is good looking, it can be very sharp, and has the ability to cut the cloaca causing problems for your python. It also tends to come apart over time when regularly washed.
Newspaper:	A very cheap and easy sub straight, easy to replace, lacks in the looks department. Good for large numbers of enclosures.
Chip Bark:	Looks good but tends to smell. Have also seen a few pythons consume some of the bark which can give them a splinter in the gut or cloaca.
Gravel:	Looks good easy to clean, can be eaten by your python though and block there digestive system.
Marine Carpet: Looks good, needs a bit of a scrub to get clean, but most users of marine carpet switch a new carpet for the old. Highly recommended, but can be costly.
Breeder’s choice/Kitty Litter: O.K looking very easy to clean and replace. The paper absorbs everything and should do no harm to the python if swallowed highly recommended.


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## cuddlykylie (Oct 29, 2006)

thats very well done, great for beginners,


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## bluebear (Oct 29, 2006)

thank you mayo
most of the info i knew but some i didnt
and it was a great help

any chance of admin putting it up as main topic or sumfin
with stars etc... this will provide alot of answer to newbs like me

bb


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## mangoman (Oct 29, 2006)

This should go sticky admin? in the appropriate forum!

fantastic info Mayo!. 

Lots of good info here searching amongst the forums, but much of it is fragmented
making a person/beginner search hard to put it all together.. actually it's quite daunting!!

Many thanks for taking the time to create this guide, its much appreciated Mayo...

Regards
mangoman


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## Mayo (Oct 29, 2006)

Thank's to those member that have pm me with Ideas. Muchly appreciated

Will revise Anterisa Species living together
Add a rest point for soaking
Add some book references

Keep the ideas coming will revise my current copy and repost with new info shortly.


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## stokedapollo (Oct 29, 2006)

i agree a sticky 
answers most of the questions i asked wen i first came to this forum
should make a APS book lol or mag


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## Mayo (Oct 29, 2006)

If it helps people out I've done my job.


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## Mayo (Oct 29, 2006)

bump


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## whiteyluvsrum (Oct 29, 2006)

ill second bump that!


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## Mayo (Oct 29, 2006)

Thank's for that Whiteyluvsrum


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## Hickson (Oct 30, 2006)

Small point - MD's are Carpets, so are Jungles (which you have indicated as not suited as first snake). So maybe in your list you should have MD's, Coastals and Darwins, instead of just "Carpet".

Just a thought.



Hix


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## vinspa (Oct 30, 2006)

this is great, just one thing we picked up is this 

"After they have feed they will be very hungry"

shouldnt it be after they have shed?

otherwise it is really good and informative well done


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## Mayo (Oct 30, 2006)

Good point Hix will revise that

Thanks Vinspa will take a look at that, might have to do some more proof reading before I post the next copy


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## Tsidasa (Oct 30, 2006)

hey and southwestern carpet as we can't get the others here in WA. =)


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## Mayo (Oct 30, 2006)

Tsidasa could you send me the info for a southwestern carpet as I don't have any. Prices low/max etc.


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## Mayo (Oct 30, 2006)

bump


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## adbacus (Oct 30, 2006)

Bump - Well done Mayo. I hope Jake and the boys don't mind you doin all this work


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## mitchyj (Oct 30, 2006)

geez u must hav some time on ur hands lol well done mate


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## Mayo (Oct 30, 2006)

We got rid of jake down to the school I don't think you would no anyone here any more bacus. most have gone or are leaving soon.


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## Mayo (Oct 30, 2006)

bump


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## adbacus (Oct 30, 2006)

Ok, kool Mayo, I think it's time to pay me old job a visit. And trust me everyone, he's got the time to watch the clouds go by where he works.


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## Mayo (Oct 30, 2006)

It's more the aircraft fly by. But no one is around on the weekends any more except us.


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## Mayo (Oct 30, 2006)

bump


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## adbacus (Oct 31, 2006)

Reposted for ya Mayo



Mayo said:


> The new updated version:
> 
> What is the best First Snake?
> You must first decide a few basic things:
> ...


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## pythonmum (Oct 31, 2006)

Great thread for us newbies - thanks for the info!


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## Mayo (Oct 31, 2006)

Will be expanding it shortly


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## kelco (Oct 31, 2006)

champion wellwritin and revised great start for all the questions a newbie could want!!!!!


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## Hetty (Oct 31, 2006)

Thanks for all this Mayo  I'm new, and wasn't sure about a lot of this stuff and now I'm feeling a bit more confident about getting my first snake


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## adbacus (Oct 31, 2006)

bump


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## Mayo (Oct 31, 2006)

The Nothing, good to hear it helped.
adbacus, Thanks for the bump


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## Mayo (Oct 31, 2006)

Bump so I can get any more comments before I begin to revise the current copy again.


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## Mayo (Oct 31, 2006)

bump


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## Mayo (Oct 31, 2006)

bump


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## Mayo (Nov 1, 2006)

bump


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## OdessaStud (Nov 1, 2006)

This sort of thing shouldnt need to be bumped,Excellent stuff Mayo ive saved it in favorites thanks for the info.
Odie


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## Mayo (Nov 1, 2006)

Done another version Now just trying to gather some pic's so that people can see everything. I keep trying to keep it up there, but alas it keeps getting pushed down


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## adbacus (Nov 1, 2006)

bumpity bump


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## Mayo (Nov 2, 2006)

.


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## Aussie Python Lover (Nov 2, 2006)

Mayo is there anything wrong with me using the breeders choice recycled paper for the stuff in my snake tank and do I have to use bark?


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## Mayo (Nov 2, 2006)

Nothing wrong with that at all, it's good stuff. I personally wouldn't use bark. Although it look's natural after a little while it stinks. And it's hard to clean out the mess without replacing all the bark.


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## Aussie Python Lover (Nov 2, 2006)

Yea cause i think it was freddy that gave an opinion of sayin "change that kitty litter stuff to a bark substrate.." but i was told by a few ppl that bark had given thier snakes mites cause not all the time the bark is treated or something..... and so far its easy to use and when she p's and stuff its easy to clean up..


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## Mayo (Nov 2, 2006)

Not a problem APL, kitty litter is a lot easier to clean up after. You can see where the mess is.


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## Greebo (Nov 2, 2006)

Is the finished version ready yet?


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## Mayo (Nov 2, 2006)

Just trying to get some photo's together, but if your in a hurry should be a ble to finnish some sort of copy by tomorrow night.


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## Mayo (Nov 2, 2006)

People keep giving me more to write which is good, but some of the photo's are taking some time to get.


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## adbacus (Nov 4, 2006)

Bump


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## adbacus (Nov 5, 2006)

And it keeps on bumpin


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## tony_agogo (Nov 5, 2006)

Cheers Mayo
I just got my first and sort of just jumped into it. Best way to learn I think. But your info has helped me out heaps. Thanks for taking the time.


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## ex1dic (Nov 5, 2006)

its substrate not sub straight  good work all the same.


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## Mayo (Nov 6, 2006)

B


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## Mayo (Nov 6, 2006)

u


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## cris (Nov 6, 2006)

m


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## adbacus (Nov 6, 2006)

P


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## cris (Nov 6, 2006)

A few more things not to do when your snake isnt feeding
- panic
- try to force feed, without being shown by an experienced keeper or vet.
- feed whole skinks(unless recomended by the breeder or a vet)


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## cris (Nov 6, 2006)

Also some tips on what to do if you let your snake escape, maybe this could go in its own thread but i think it needs to be a sticky.


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## Greebo (Nov 6, 2006)

cris said:


> Also some tips on what to do if you let your snake escape, maybe this could go in its own thread but i think it needs to be a sticky.




I'm going to make another sticky thread about how to catch an escapee.
Any other idea for FAQs?


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## Mayo (Nov 6, 2006)

Will forward that final copy through to you tonight Greebo, my last shift ended up being a busy one but couldn't be helped.


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## cris (Nov 6, 2006)

Maybe just add in the housing section that it is very common for new ppl to lose there snakes because they underestimate what they can fit through.

I know you already mention that they are good at escaping but if you tell ppl its very common they might think about it more.


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## Mayo (Nov 6, 2006)

Just got a friend having a read through my new revised copy and then I'll post it here in Herp Help, and send Greebo a copy.


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## Mayo (Nov 6, 2006)

Have renamed this in teh herp help section under " The new and improved."


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## cris (Nov 6, 2006)

Would there be anyway of making sure all new members see it? because not everyone would think to look.


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