# DIY heat mat.



## hurcorh (Sep 30, 2011)

This guy has some great reptile setups and i would advise anyone to check them out. Im not taking any credit for this but i thought a lot of people on here would be interested in his DIY heat mat.

[video=youtube;wAE4OneiNHY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAE4OneiNHY&amp;feature=feedu[/video]

If he is on this forum site and doesn't want me to post this just PM me. i will happily take it off if that is the case.


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## Bluetonguesblack (Sep 30, 2011)

Thanks for that. Very interesting viewing. Ross.


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## solar 17 (Sep 30, 2011)

_*What a "great" idea.
........solar 17 (Baden)...ps is that board called "core flute"*_


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## hurcorh (Sep 30, 2011)

corflute i believe it is spelt


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## leamos (Sep 30, 2011)

Awesome, so simple yet so effective, did anyone else have the "why didn't I think of that" moment too?


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## Ryant16 (Sep 30, 2011)

can anyone see anything that could go wrong with this?
like what if you did this in a series of say 5 or something (5 different mats)
where would you suggest putting the thermostat in a series. at start end middle doesnt matter?
it seems like such a genious idea. the sizes are a bit dettering. :S


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## Erebos (Sep 30, 2011)

Good idea wonder if you could use that stuff as like a heat panel as well


Cheers Brenton


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## Snowman (Sep 30, 2011)

Now where do we source 10mm corflute? Maybe sign shops?


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## RSPcrazy (Sep 30, 2011)

This is grate! I have some of this stuff in my shed, I'm gonna try it out as a heat panel by sticking insulation tape on one side of he panel (the side facing the roof of the enclosure), to try and focus the heat down and building a frame around it to tidy up the edges. 
This guys a genius, so simple, yet so effective. I'm so glade he decided to share this and no I'm not going to be taking credit for it.


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## hurcorh (Sep 30, 2011)

Ryant16 said:


> can anyone see anything that could go wrong with this?
> like what if you did this in a series of say 5 or something (5 different mats)
> where would you suggest putting the thermostat in a series. at start end middle doesnt matter?
> it seems like such a genious idea. the sizes are a bit dettering. :S



If i was to do it i would have one heat chord and one thermostat per mat. just to avoid any overheating but if all of the mats are off of the one heat chord you would expect them all to reach the same temps wouldn't you? if you had the same amount and same spacing of heat chord in each mat?


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## Ryant16 (Sep 30, 2011)

hurcorh said:


> If i was to do it i would have one heat chord and one thermostat per mat. just to avoid any overheating but if all of the mats are off of the one heat chord you would expect them all to reach the same temps wouldn't you? if you had the same amount and same spacing of heat chord in each mat?



well thats what i was thinking! that they would all reach same temp no matter where it is along the series. i guess a couple of days of testing would probably answer any questions but i dont see the cord giving off any different heats along its length.

another question. what wattage heat cord would be acceptable as to not melt the flute board
(by the way its also called flute board purchased from bunnings for $5 a meter or something - i purchased some today)


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## Snowman (Sep 30, 2011)

Remember it needs to be at least 10mm holes. I'm not sure if the bunnings stuff is thick enough to take the end of the cord or a thermostat probe? Hope I'm wrong though for your sake.
I got some today too. 4 sheets of 1200x600x10. Got it from a sign printing place in Osbourne Park. Should be able to make a few 
Will take some pictures of how it goes on the weekend.


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## hurcorh (Sep 30, 2011)

I got a 9m heat cord off ebay for like 39 dollars free postage 85 watt so i will try with that i reckon



Ryant16 said:


> well thats what i was thinking! that they would all reach same temp no matter where it is along the series. i guess a couple of days of testing would probably answer any questions but i dont see the cord giving off any different heats along its length.
> 
> another question. what wattage heat cord would be acceptable as to not melt the flute board
> (by the way its also called flute board purchased from bunnings for $5 a meter or something - i purchased some today)



Id say you would be more interested in how close you space the heat cord and it would depend on the size of the heat mat. just make sure the heat cord is long enough for the size heat mat you want.


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## t.Man (Sep 30, 2011)

Now, to source the correct size fluteboard.


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## hurcorh (Sep 30, 2011)

sign making shops you might be able to get some free cut offs that would work?, hardware stores, cheap stores, etc.


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## Snowman (Sep 30, 2011)

I dont want to make a heat mat, but rather a basking shelf. I'm going to see if this is as good as a tile over routed wood.


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## KaotikJezta (Sep 30, 2011)

Thats such a great idea, will be trying it out for sure, I have heat cords everywhere here.

If any one finds out where to buy it in Melbourne in single sheets please let me know, found stacks of suppliers but you have to buy in either pallets or packs of 10.


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## Robo1 (Sep 30, 2011)

Great idea, nice and simple! Much easier than routing out a piece of wood too. You could make it a little neater if you cut the vertical plastic out of the ends where the cord goes around (so the corner of the cord is still inside the corflute/fluteboard), though you'd have to be careful not to leave sharp edges which might cut into the heat cord.


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## Bluetongue1 (Oct 1, 2011)

I have a few of questions... 

What material is the interior of this board made of? 
What sort of conductivity/insulation properties does it have?
Alternatively, is there air flow to offset heat build-up before it occurs?
What temperature does the cord reach? 

Blue


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## saximus (Oct 1, 2011)

How thick is the stuff they use for For Sale signs...? It'd certainly be a cheaper option than trying to find somewhere to buy it


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## DeadCricket (Oct 1, 2011)

Im guessing they probably use a variety. I purchased a sheet of the bunnings stuff, and sucessfully made a good heat spot for my geckos. I posted a thread in DIY because I couldn't find this one... Which was in general. Haha, can't see anything right in front of me, you have to hide it somewhere clever for me to find it


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## starr9 (Oct 1, 2011)

For sale signs for houses are made from this stuff!! We used to use this 2 slide down the sand dunes (back in the day when you could!) What a g8 idea!


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## Shiresnakes (Oct 1, 2011)

Wow very interesting, I will keep it in mind.

I use heat cord for my incubator and it works well to distribute the heat.



For some of my enclosures I use the heat mats by lucky reptiles as the technology is great and they last ages. Basically if one cell fails then the rest of the heat mat still works and there is much less risk of your reptile being left cold for a period of time due to a failed heat mat.... Has worked great for me so far and I'm happy with them ....Im sure the are for sale in reptile shops, but I got mine online from Dalbarb Aquarium Products and Furniture .....been good for under my hatchie click clacks as well.

Thanks for sharing the YouTube.... Very creative!


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## Snowman (Oct 1, 2011)

Bluetongue1 said:


> I have a few of questions...
> 
> What material is the interior of this board made of?
> What sort of conductivity/insulation properties does it have?
> ...



It's made of thin plastic.
It's seems to distribute heat very well. I made one last night.
Id say the air flow is better than a tile over grouted wood.
In a 20 degree room I got a surface temp of 38 degrees with no thermostat. So I could hold my hand on it safely, but I'd use a thermostat in an actual application of this set up.
I'm very impressed with this method and will use it instead of a tile over routed wood now. 
Mike I will bring a sample to the next WAHS meeting for all to see. Great invention/idea for a basking spot. 15w heat cord vs 100w ceramic is a massive electricity saving!


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## t.Man (Oct 1, 2011)

I went to some sign shops around me yesterday, turns out that they don't tend to use 10mm fluteboard, one place I went to gave me an off-cut of some 10mm*5mm fluteboard, I had to cut slits down the flutes that I was using, but it's working well.


KaotikJezta said:


> If any one finds out where to buy it in Melbourne in single sheets please let me know, found stacks of suppliers but you have to buy in either pallets or packs of 10.


Have you tried Corex in Dandenong?


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## SamNabz (Oct 1, 2011)

While it's a clever idea, I can honestly think of no reasons where I would use something like this...

I only use heat cords, and 1 length heats multiple tubs. If I was to route the cord through the corflute, then realistically I'll be using a whole length of heat cord to make 1 heatmat used to heat 1 tub OR use a length to make 1 long/large heat mat to sit under multiple tubs. Meaning all it's doing is putting a cover over the heatcoard..

So really, what is the point? Not trying to be a jerk, but if you have genuine ideas of why this is a great idea, I'd love to hear them...


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## Snowman (Oct 1, 2011)

Sam people often route grooves into the floor of their enclosures for the heat cord then place a tile over the top. One heat cord per enclosure. It creates a basking spot for adult bhp's, woma's, stimi,s etc. If you have a lot of snakes it's cheaper to run 25w per enclosure for adult snakes than a 100w ceramic or globe per enclosure. Cords are very versatile and can have more uses than just heating click clacks. I've made a basking shelf for my imbricata with heat cord and a tile and it works very well. it's a newer method than lights and ceramics. So not as popular. Heat mats seem to catch on fire a lot or burn out so again not as versatile as heat cord.


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## RSPcrazy (Oct 1, 2011)

Does anyone know where to find 10mm corflute around the Windsor NSW area? 

I've tried bunnings, but they only stocked up to 5mm and I got them to call the other stores close by and they didn't have 10mm either. I also tried miter10 and looked into some sign writing places with no luck. Everywhere I go only stocks up to 5mm.


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## SamNabz (Oct 1, 2011)

Snowman said:


> Sam people often route grooves into the floor of their enclosures for the heat cord then place a tile over the top. One heat cord per enclosure. It creates a basking spot for adult bhp's, woma's, stimi,s etc. If you have a lot of snakes it's cheaper to run 25w per enclosure for adult snakes than a 100w ceramic or globe per enclosure. Cords are very versatile and can have more uses than just heating click clacks. I've made a basking shelf for my imbricata with heat cord and a tile and it works very well. it's a newer method than lights and ceramics. So not as popular. Heat mats seem to catch on fire a lot or burn out so again not as versatile as heat cord.


 
Thanks for that, Snow.


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## saximus (Oct 1, 2011)

RSPcrazy said:


> Does anyone know where to find 10mm corflute around the Windsor NSW area? I've tried bunnings, but they only stocked up to 5mm and I got them to call the other stores close by and they didn't have 10mm either. I also tried miter10 and looked into some sign writing places with no luck. Everywhere I go only stocks up to 5mm.


I'll be very interested to hear if you find a place that does it RSP. I emailed them to see if they could give me some names of places around here that stock it


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## RSPcrazy (Oct 1, 2011)

saximus said:


> I'll be very interested to hear if you find a place that does it RSP. I emailed them to see if they could give me some names of places around here that stock it



Let me know if anyone gets back to you as to where to get it. I'll just be driving around looking for places that might stock it, so if I find a place, I'll let you know.


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## Tassie97 (Oct 1, 2011)

yer this guy makes awesome vids!


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## Dan40D (Oct 1, 2011)

Best heatcord mat i have seen yet! So simple yet effective, i'm going to try and make some radiators using this method.

Try plastics retailers, they usually keep it, for those in Newcastle Specialised wholesale in Lambton keep corflute, website lists 8mm which would probably suffice.


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## KaotikJezta (Oct 1, 2011)

t.Man said:


> Have you tried Corex in Dandenong?


They only sell it by the pallet


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## hurcorh (Oct 1, 2011)

i've just sent out some quotes to a few sign making shops in adelaide to see what they have. will report back when i hear anything from them.


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## saximus (Oct 1, 2011)

Haha the corrugated plastic industry is about to get an unexpected rise in sales thanks to this thread


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## Dan40D (Oct 1, 2011)

KaotikJezta said:


> They only sell it by the pallet



APS Group buy??


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## DeadCricket (Oct 1, 2011)

If your confident with your ability to reinsulate the end then the smaller sheet from bunnings can work. I trimmed the insulation off the end, used another piece of wire to pull whilst I fed it through, reinsulated the end and pulled it back into the board for a little extra safety and mine is working fantastically.


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## KaotikJezta (Oct 1, 2011)

Dan40D said:


> APS Group buy??


I thought about that but we all live in different states, logistical nightmare maybe



DeadCricket said:


> If your confident with your ability to reinsulate the end then the smaller sheet from bunnings can work. I trimmed the insulation off the end, used another piece of wire to pull whilst I fed it through, reinsulated the end and pulled it back into the board for a little extra safety and mine is working fantastically.


I actually accidentally pulled the end off a heat cable once, put it back on and it's still going strong.


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## Snowman (Oct 1, 2011)

I could only buy a full sheet from a sign printing place. A sheet is 3660x1220x10mm. Cost me $84.


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## J-A-X (Oct 1, 2011)

Given the size of the average tile though Snow, it would still work out financially viable. Most of the tiles I use are 33cm square (I don't have a calculator handy but I'm sure someone can figure it out) plus you have the advantage of being able to make it any shape you want. Why do I always see these threads two days too late. !


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## Tiliqua (Oct 1, 2011)

I still can't see why you guys are getting so excited over this? How is this any different to taping the heat cord to a board using insulating tape? Or better yet, a lot of you are scurrying to find a supplier of corrugated board and buy heat cords when the combined price is probably more expensive than a heat mat in the first place! Sorry, I love DIY hero stuff, but this one is underwhelming....


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## hurcorh (Oct 1, 2011)

Tiliqua said:


> I still can't see why you guys are getting so excited over this? How is this any different to taping the heat cord to a board using insulating tape? Or better yet, a lot of you are scurrying to find a supplier of corrugated board and buy heat cords when the combined price is probably more expensive than a heat mat in the first place! Sorry, I love DIY hero stuff, but this one is underwhelming....



heat mats are a massive rip. a 9m heat cord could do like 5 of these designs in a good size and they cost like 36 dollars. a small 5w heat mat is about that. hmmm seems cheaper to me. free offcuts from a sign shop should do the trick.


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## Snowman (Oct 1, 2011)

Tiliqua said:


> I still can't see why you guys are getting so excited over this? How is this any different to taping the heat cord to a board using insulating tape? Or better yet, a lot of you are scurrying to find a supplier of corrugated board and buy heat cords when the combined price is probably more expensive than a heat mat in the first place! Sorry, I love DIY hero stuff, but this one is underwhelming....



Fixing cord with tape is lame at best. Its so messy looking and unprofessional. Routing grooves in wood is the only way to go. (or was). Especially if you want to put the heat cord inside the enclosure. Tape And snakes do not mix! It's way cheaper than a heat mat and heat mats are just plain dangerous. 
Once you've routed a heap of enclosures and silliconed a tile over the top, you would understand that this is way quicker and easier. The fact you can get a 38 degree basking spot from a 15w heat cord is fantastic. Chuck a thermostat in and dial the cord back to 32 degrees and your electricity bills will plummet. When I changed all my enclosures over tho heat cord my electricity bill went from $580 to $270. The amount of power needed to heat up the coreflute compared to heating a tile is massive. 
For DIY enclosure builds this is really awesome. For people still using heat lamps and ceramics I can understand the lack of enthusiasm. Its obviously the same princaple as a nocturnal reptile getting belly heat off a rock or warm road. Its easy to clean so you won't need a tile. The only thing I will do is make a wooden fram to sit around it and hide the loops.

I'm still in the trial stage of core flute but it I'm very excited about how well it works compared to routing and a ceramic tile.



Jaxrtfm said:


> Given the size of the average tile though Snow, it would still work out financially viable. Most of the tiles I use are 33cm square (I don't have a calculator handy but I'm sure someone can figure it out) plus you have the advantage of being able to make it any shape you want. Why do I always see these threads two days too late. !


 
Yep I'll have enough to build 100 enclosures lol. I've got a few going flat out to test them. One is 450mmx450mm with a 50 watt heat cord, threaded evert third hole. Flat out no thermostat I'm getting 46 degrees in a 22 degree room. The 15 watt is in a 300x 150 and is getting 38 degrees no thermostat in the same room, threaded every second hole. Both sitting on a laminated table. The temps inside the coreflute are about 6 degrees hotter. I will keep an eye on them over the next few days and see what max temps I get inside the coreflute and the surface temp.


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## mudgudgeon (Oct 1, 2011)

Nifty idea, I can definitely see uses for this idea.

Another product that is basically the same as this is " double walled poly carbonate" roof sheeting. 
It is used for outdoor verandah/patio/living area roofs. You may find it at bunnings? Or roofing supplies etc, it comes in clear, smokey grey etc.

I threw a few sheets of it out at work recently, could have cut it up and sold it to APS members :lol:


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## J-A-X (Oct 2, 2011)

The polycarbonate sheeting could be useful for basking shelves, it would be strong enough to support a decent size python if you framed it properly and would let light through but what would you use to cut it though ? Fine toothed circular saw blade or Angle grinder?


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## Snowman (Oct 2, 2011)

Even the coreflute on a frame would be strong enough to support a 5 kilo python. The 10mm thick stuff is surprisingly strong and doesnt bend or flex.


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## RSPcrazy (Oct 2, 2011)

I just found a full polycarbonate 10mm sheet (clear) behind the garage, I cut a peace to size with "old reliable" (Angle grinder), inserted the heat cord and I'm testing it right now. This stuff is pretty strong. I would have preferred white, but it was free, so I'm not complaining.






Ok, I just checked the temperature, it got to 38 degrees with a 15W heat cord, but I had it sitting on some foam and when I lifted the heat panel to checked the temperature under the heat panel, it was 48 degrees, so I would imagine a snake sitting on it would get quite hot.

I also cut (with small scissors) out some of the inside end spacers, to submerge the heat cord into the panel, so the cord doesn't hang out at all. It tidies it up pretty well.









I'm also going to stick insulation tape to one side (opposite to the side facing the snake), hopefully this should help focus the heat down more, like a heat panel on the top of the enclosure.


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## mudgudgeon (Oct 2, 2011)

The poly carbonate sheeting is quite thin, though also quite rigid. It's thin enough to be able to be cut with a sharp Stanley knife.

I see no reason you couldn't give one of these heat mats the fake rock treatment by coating it with PVA then cement or tile grout etc


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## RSPcrazy (Oct 3, 2011)

I tried to cut the polycarbonate sheet with a Stanley knife, all that did was scratch it, it's very strong stuff, I can hardly bend it. I could cut the coreflute with a Stanley knife a lot easier.


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## hurcorh (Oct 3, 2011)

RSPcrazy, try spacing the heat cord out more that way the surface temp wont get as hot.


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## RSPcrazy (Oct 3, 2011)

I put this heat matt on a peace of foam, then put it under a glass tank last night. I checked the tank today and I noticed the snake was on the cool end of the tank, I pulled the heat matt out and it burnt my hand, it had also melted into the foam, I checked the temperature and it was 73 degrees. I would highly recommend using a thermostat, even when using a 15W heat cord like me.


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## Snowman (Oct 3, 2011)

RSPcrazy said:


> I put this heat matt on a peace of foam, then put it under a glass tank last night. I checked the tank today and I noticed the snake was on the cool end of the tank, I pulled the heat matt out and it burnt my hand, it had also melted into the foam, I checked the temperature and it was 73 degrees. I would highly recommend using a thermostat, even when using a 15W heat cord like me.


Foam and heat sources do not mix well...


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## J-A-X (Oct 3, 2011)

That's why I don't like enclosing heat cords/ mats. If the heat can't escape then of course it's going to build up and I'm also surprised that with the heat you're producing you didn't crack the glass. 
I wouldn't have put it into an occupied tank without some exhaustive testing.

Snow, I know you've been experimenting, how are the trials going?


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## mudgudgeon (Oct 3, 2011)

wow! I've been running a 15watt heat cord sandwiched between a piece of Melamine board and a slate tile, all sides have been sealed with foil tape. it has been running 24hrs a day for about a week and even under a ceramic heat lamp it has maxed out at 37degrees. I tested it for 4-5days before putting into an enclosure.

it has been set up with cord spaced at about 15-20mm intervals too.


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## Snowman (Oct 3, 2011)

Jaxrtfm said:


> Snow, I know you've been experimenting, how are the trials going?



I'd like a 450x450 basking spot / heat mat. The problem I'm having is 15w is not long enough and 50w is too long (25w isn't much longer than 15W). I'm trying different distances of heat cord runs in the coreflute to obtain a max of 38 degrees in a 22 degree room with no thermostat. in an actual application I'd want the max temp if my thermostat failed to be 45 degrees. I will probably have to use the 50w and leave the excess outside.
Small runs in a smaller piece of coreflute with a 15w cord are very sucessful and it generates and disperses heat well. You could easily make a 250x250 for an adult stimi.


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## saximus (Oct 3, 2011)

Snowman said:


> Small runs in a smaller piece of coreflute with a 15w cord are very sucessful and it generates and disperses heat well. You could easily make a 250x250 for an adult stimi.


That's close to what I made today. I have two 150x150 ceramic tiles on top and a 300x300 ceramic tile on the bottom to help dissipate the heat underneath. Sitting on my kitchen bench it's reaching about 40. I'm gonna leave it overnight and see how it goes.
I guess with this setup it's virtually the same as a routed bit of wood but so much easier/quicker to make and you get perfectly straight, parallel rows with it.


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## Snowman (Oct 3, 2011)

saximus said:


> That's close to what I made today. I have two 150x150 ceramic tiles on top and a 300x300 ceramic tile on the bottom to help dissipate the heat underneath. Sitting on my kitchen bench it's reaching about 40. I'm gonna leave it overnight and see how it goes.
> I guess with this setup it's virtually the same as a routed bit of wood but so much easier/quicker to make and you get perfectly straight, parallel rows with it.



Are you putting a tile on the coreflute?


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## saximus (Oct 3, 2011)

Yeah. I didn't see what temps I'd get straight off the corflute. Maybe I'll test that as well next but I just like the idea of tiles to help stabilise the temp


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## Snowman (Oct 4, 2011)

saximus said:


> Yeah. I didn't see what temps I'd get straight off the corflute. Maybe I'll test that as well next but I just like the idea of tiles to help stabilise the temp



Stick a thermometer probe into the coreflute. Sandwiched between the tiles you will find it gets really hot. I did the same thing too. The bottom tile was too hot to touch. I think the heat needs a chance to disapate from somewhere.


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## RSPcrazy (Oct 4, 2011)

I will be using mine like a heat panel and attaching it to the roof of the enclosure, but I think the polycarbonate is holding most of the heat inside with the heat cord, I was thinking about putting some holes on the bottom side of it, so the heat can pass through the plastic easier and heat things a little further from the heat source, what do you guys think? Is it worth doing or won't it make much difference?


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## J-A-X (Oct 4, 2011)

Seeing as the use of the polycarbonate sheeting is still "in trial" I would suggest trying anything and everything to stop the apparent heat build up. If drilling holes makes no difference then you've lost nothing, but it may just be all that it needs. 
Maybe start with a few holes around the mid-length of each occupied channel, if it seems to drop the temp then add holes until it's stable at the temp you want. 
Give each set of holes a full 24 hrs to give a semi accurate point of difference.

I'm asking everyone at work if they have offcuts of the polycarbonate so I can play around too


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## Virides (Oct 4, 2011)

Radiated heat is what you are after in terms of transfering heat to a material - the slate/tile. Ambient heat is inefficient in this application and compounds the heat tolerance of the system. You have to focus on the transferral of heat to the medium that requires the heating and to minimise the ambient (accumulated volume based heat). 

Think of one single 15w heat cord, it radiates heat in all directions and it's ambient heat is projected upwards from the cord (hot air rises). Now get 1000 15w cords and bunch them into one larger cord. Singularly they are 15w but together would be equal to theoretically 15000w (however there are some other factors that mean this number is far less, although it would still be accurate to say that it is far more then 15w). The heat is compounded and has no means of escape, the radiating heat of each cord absorbs into its neighbour and thus makes the neighbour emit more heat, heating the previous neighbour and so forth. The whole mass of cords will eventually get so hot that the material fails (catching fire etc). This is why the cords generate hotter temps when the cords are spaced closer together.

The way to ensure that you can make a heat mat that works to the way you need it is to ensure that this thermal compounding is limited or doesn't occur. This comes down to spacing, the material used to distribute the heat and the mechanical/physical components that help with dissipation of acumulated heat. Holes will only help if it is on the top surface where the heat can escape upwards. Holes on the side will only help the side of the cord at the edges, unless aided by a source of airflow - ie. a fan. Other materials might need to be taken into consideration.

A bit of an essay - but there is far more to it than just the idea


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## saximus (Oct 4, 2011)

Snowman said:


> Stick a thermometer probe into the coreflute. Sandwiched between the tiles you will find it gets really hot. I did the same thing too. The bottom tile was too hot to touch. I think the heat needs a chance to disapate from somewhere.


 I'm using an IR thermometer so can't stick a probe in the unoccupied holes but last night I lifted it up and measured the bottom tile. It was still only a bit over 40 as well. I think having the larger tile on the bottom helps to act like a heat sink so the issue you're describing doesn't happen so badly. You could get an even better heat sink action by enveloping the tiles in alfoil. I think this may be getting a little over the top though


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## hurcorh (Oct 4, 2011)

RSPcrazy said:


> I will be using mine like a heat panel and attaching it to the roof of the enclosure, but I think the polycarbonate is holding most of the heat inside with the heat cord, I was thinking about putting some holes on the bottom side of it, so the heat can pass through the plastic easier and heat things a little further from the heat source, what do you guys think? Is it worth doing or won't it make much difference?


 
I would put some sort of reflective tape on the top surface to try and direct the heat down.


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## Jaycw (Oct 4, 2011)

Snowman said:


> Now where do we source 10mm corflute? Maybe sign shops?



Maybe try your local bottleo .... the signs they use out the front (the ones that advertise beer prices etc) theyre all made of coreflute (and useless once the promos are over) dont know if its 10mm tho.


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## DeadCricket (Oct 4, 2011)

' have a nice cold beer' but a warm reptile


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## RSPcrazy (Oct 4, 2011)

hurcorh said:


> I would put some sort of reflective tape on the top surface to try and direct the heat down.



I have insulation tape on one side already, the side with the tape gets so hot that it will burn your hand if you touch it.

I have made a box for the panel to sit in, I'm hoping the box will focus the heat down more and also make it a little more safe.





I started with a peace of 16mm melamine for the top (bottom in the photo), then cut a hole in some industrial grade foam for the panel to sit in (the foam only touches the sides of the panel, not any of the faces) and screwed it all together with some thin bits of wood.




Because of how hot the surface of the panel gets, I added some shade cloth in-between the foam and wood strips, so the snake wont get burnt.









I'm in the proses of testing it now.
This panel won't be used with any snakes, this is my mockup panel, made from what ever scrap I had laying around. 
If this works then I will be remaking the whole thing, I will router the whole box out of timber, so the panel box will only be made from 2 peaces (front and back) and there will be no foam in it (I only used foam in my mockup panel because I needed something to fill that gap with).

If this mockup panel doesn't work properly, then I suppose I could try moving the heat cord closer to itself and maybe put a couple of holes in the polycarbonate.


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## Snowman (Oct 4, 2011)

I made a similar frame for the coreflute. Will put some pics up tonight. Though I'm trying to create a heat mat rather than a panel.


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## winny111 (Oct 4, 2011)

I think u chanell Plastic or aluminium would be the easiest way to make a frame


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## Snowman (Oct 5, 2011)

I'm thinking heat panel is the way to go with core flute and a 50w cord. A melamine shelf 400x400 with the heat panel underneath. The top will get to low 30's easily enough and if the shelf is 200 high you will get heat radiated to the floor. it would be simple enough to drill a hole in the melamine to insert the probe of your thermostat to ensure the shelf doesn't get too hot. The max I've recorded with no thermostat on the shelf is 36 degrees in a 22 degree room. Inside the coreflute is 70 degrees. I have not measured the temp under the panel as it's too high up from the floor at present. You would need a cage or something around the panel. Shade cloth would be fine at a 50mm distance.


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## J-A-X (Oct 5, 2011)

have you noticed any softening of the coreflute at the temp of 70c ? i wouldn't think that it was designed for those sorts of temps longterm.


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## Snowman (Oct 5, 2011)

Nope it's still strong. However having it as a heat panel at these temps it will never bare any weight. As it will be fixed to a ceiling or shelf. I will make something on the weekend and post pictures. I need a new enclosure for my yearling bhp anyway, he's getting too big for a click clack


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## saximus (Oct 5, 2011)

Hey Snowman I had a go measuring the tile underneath again and also measuring the gaps (still with the IR thermo though) and it's quite consistent through the whole thing. I just had a thought - what size are you using? I could only get the 5mm stuff so the cord is in direct contact with the polycarbonate. If you guys are using the 10mm stuff and getting it that hot it might be the extra air gap between the corrugations and the cord itself


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## Snowman (Oct 5, 2011)

That's is interesting. I am using the 10mm coreflute and threading every second hole.
I clamped it to the ceiling of an enclosure last night. The top of the enclosure (13mm melamine) held a stedy 35 degress. And inside the coreflute was 70. Holding my hand under it I could feel the heat radiating. I need to set up a probe underneath and measure the air temps that it is generating. 50w per enclosure isn't fantastic, but it's better than a 100w ceramic. For smaller snakes 15w is more than enough for a basking pad with coreflute. 
Well done to the bloke in the video!


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## geckolover07 (Oct 5, 2011)

does anyone know how this will go as a heat mat if placed under the substrate. I have a styrofoam hide/basking spot at one end directly beneath a heat lamp. As a result the substrate directly beneath the basking spot is shaded and although the basking spot temp is high, the sand is quiet cool to the touch. As my basking spot is made from styrofoam, covered in grout, I dont want to place a traditional heat mat under it as im worried it will melt the foam. Im thinking about cutting the coreflute to shape and "fitting" it into the base of the hide/basking spot. Would this be a better option then having a heat mat fully under the styrofoam structure, almost with direct contact??
Heres a pic to show where Im talking about.


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## Snowman (Oct 5, 2011)

I don't keep lizards. But the idea of a heated hide sounds strange. They wouldn't have heated hides in the wild they would need to come out to bask. Wouldn't you want to encourage exercise and have your animal come out to get warm?


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## saximus (Oct 5, 2011)

Snowman said:


> I don't keep lizards. But the idea of a heated hide sounds strange. They wouldn't have heated hides in the wild they would need to come out to bask. Wouldn't you want to encourage exercise and have your animal come out to get warm?


 
Agreed. 
Plus I'd be hesitant to put it under the sand. There wouldn't be anywhere for the heat to go and as some people have found, they can get incredibly hot without enough air flow. Maybe with a thermostat but even then I wouldn't do it personally


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## DeadCricket (Oct 5, 2011)

saximus said:


> Agreed.
> Plus I'd be hesitant to put it under the sand. There wouldn't be anywhere for the heat to go and as some people have found, they can get incredibly hot without enough air flow. Maybe with a thermostat but even then I wouldn't do it personally


 
I'm only using a 15w heat cord so my temps are a lot lower. I'm using this in my gecko enclosure and they choose to sleep in there during the day as it is currently quite cool where I am. They are still plenty active at night


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## geckolover07 (Oct 5, 2011)

I want it placed outside the entrance to the hide. Its hard to tell in that photo but because of the basking spot, half the enclosure is put in shade and that decreases the temp of the enclosure dramitically. 
I wouldnt place the heat mat under the hide, it just has to fit around that knoby looking piece of the structure at the bottom of the photo, the right hand section of the structure.


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## DeadCricket (Oct 5, 2011)

geckolover07 said:


> I want it placed outside the entrance to the hide. Its hard to tell in that photo but because of the basking spot, half the enclosure is put in shade and that decreases the temp of the enclosure dramitically.
> I wouldnt place the heat mat under the hide, it just has to fit around that knoby looking piece of the structure at the bottom of the photo, the right hand section of the structure.


 
Easily enough cut to shape and size


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## t.Man (Oct 5, 2011)

Anyone in Melbourne found somewhere to get the 10mm square fluteboard?


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## saximus (Oct 5, 2011)

Try contacting Corex directly. I emailed them asking for suppliers in my area and they responded within a day


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## RSPcrazy (Oct 5, 2011)

saximus said:


> Try contacting Corex directly. I emailed them asking for suppliers in my area and they responded within a day



So who and where are these suppliers around Windsor? I have a full clear sheet in my back yard, but I'm after a white sheet.


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## saximus (Oct 5, 2011)

Haha there are none apparently. They suggested PP Technology in Rivo. He said they aren't a reseller but none of the resellers in our area stock 10mm stuff


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## mudgudgeon (Oct 7, 2011)

geckolover07 said:


> does anyone know how this will go as a heat mat if placed under the substrate. I have a styrofoam hide/basking spot at one end directly beneath a heat lamp. As a result the substrate directly beneath the basking spot is shaded and although the basking spot temp is high, the sand is quiet cool to the touch. As my basking spot is made from styrofoam, covered in grout, I dont want to place a traditional heat mat under it as im worried it will melt the foam. Im thinking about cutting the coreflute to shape and "fitting" it into the base of the hide/basking spot. Would this be a better option then having a heat mat fully under the styrofoam structure, almost with direct contact??
> Heres a pic to show where Im talking about.


 
This is what I've done for my EWDs, they love it


I used a 15 watt heat cord, it's under a slate tile sandwiched between a piece of melamine.
It runs at 35 degrees by itself, I have it under a ceramic heat lamp also, temp is about 38 with both running.


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## Snowman (Oct 10, 2011)

Made a basking shelf/heat panel on the weekend. Still running tests with it.
I used fiberglass fly screen for the cage under the panel. It's soft and wont hurt the animals nose if it rubs against it.
The shelf gets to 40 degrees on top and 31 underneath on the floor. I have drilled a hole into the shelf from the back for a thermostat probe. Though I'm running it flat out at present for max temps in my tests.


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## saximus (Oct 10, 2011)

Looking good Snowman. Is that a 50W cord?


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## Snowman (Oct 10, 2011)

yeah it's a 50w cord. The enclosure will be for my yearling BHP. Though he will out grow it at the rate it's going.


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## J-A-X (Oct 10, 2011)

That's looking good so far Snow, I'm glad you're putting up step by steps, like they say ... A pictures worth 1,000 words. I'm glad you have the time to do some serious testing too. Do you have The glass to put in? It would give it a great "in the real world" test 

Thank you for all of your time and effort 

Has anyone managed to source the 10mm core-flute in SA yet?


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## saximus (Oct 10, 2011)

Just use the 5mm if you can't find the bigger stuff Jax. You need to trim the fat part off the end but if you're careful with the Stanley knife you can trim it down without having to re-terminate it afterwards. I exposed the metal but a bit of heat shrink fixed that


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## Snowman (Oct 10, 2011)

Haven't got the glass yet but will test with glass once I get it.


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## hurcorh (Oct 11, 2011)

Jaxrtfm said:


> That's looking good so far Snow, I'm glad you're putting up step by steps, like they say ... A pictures worth 1,000 words. I'm glad you have the time to do some serious testing too. Do you have The glass to put in? It would give it a great "in the real world" test
> 
> Thank you for all of your time and effort
> 
> Has anyone managed to source the 10mm core-flute in SA yet?



yes i got a quote from a company called Adelaide sign design but they could only sell it to me by the sheet. This is the email they sent me.

"Hi we don't have a piece of 10mm in stock so we would have to get it in specially for you therefore it will cost $110 INC GST and it will be a full sheet at 3660mm x 1220mm"


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## J-A-X (Oct 11, 2011)

Good grief ! That's an expensive piece of plastic cardboard. I'm sure there has to be somewhere that has it, it's just a matter of finding them. 

@saximus, I'm really not comfortable trimming the end, surely it's thick for a reason - ?!


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## saximus (Oct 11, 2011)

lol it's thick because the end termination is in it which is a bit bigger than the regular wire. Get yourself a sacrificial 15W one or something and just play with it. Like I said, if you put some heat shrink over the end once you're finished it will be no different to if you hadn't touched it in the first place. I got a 600x900 sheet of the 5mm stuff from bunnings for like $8. Better than your quote for $110


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## DeadCricket (Oct 11, 2011)

Jaxrtfm said:


> Good grief ! That's an expensive piece of plastic cardboard. I'm sure there has to be somewhere that has it, it's just a matter of finding them.
> 
> @saximus, I'm really not comfortable trimming the end, surely it's thick for a reason - ?!



I'm guessing its the way it sets when they pour it. Mine has been running on a trimmed and reinsulated end for over a week now with no issues


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## J-A-X (Oct 11, 2011)

I'd still like to hear an electricians view on the long term potential risk, I know I'm being probably over cautious but we're talking about an electrically heated wire


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## saximus (Oct 11, 2011)

You're talking to one . As long as it's re-insulated properly and you don't disturb the termination on the end it doesn't matter


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## J-A-X (Oct 11, 2011)

Sorry sax, I wasn't meaning to sound disrespectful, just wasn't aware you were 'electrically trained' - no doubt you've mentioned it somewhere along the line and I missed it ( or forgot - I'll blame a head cold). I know first hand that electricity isn't something to be treated lightly and wanted to be super sure that there isn't something in the end of the cord that could be upset by reducing the thickness of the end.

Now where did I put the Stanley knife and the dusty 15w cord !!!


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## saximus (Oct 11, 2011)

Haha no offence taken. By all means get more opinions. I would guess the extra thickness is just because the termination is thicker than the wire and also just so it doesn't bend as easily as the rest because it could eventually damage the termination if it could be bent and wiggled


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## DeadCricket (Oct 11, 2011)

Heat cords are basically just an electrical loop. The thickness of the cord (impedance) determins its heat output.


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## browny (Oct 21, 2011)

to help out everyone trying to find places that sell the corflute....... it was "food grade" he said in the video it could be a clue to who to ring, my little suggestion is call any of the commercial refridgeration companies and see what they can do


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## martin-QLD (Oct 22, 2011)

[h=3]BFS Plastics[/h]


www.bfsplastics.com.au/ 
These guys sell it 
Cheer Martin


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## DanNG (Nov 7, 2011)

just picked up a big piece from a local sign shop.. for free. Asked if they had any offcuts =)


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## Snowman (Nov 11, 2011)

Jaxrtfm said:


> I'd still like to hear an electricians view on the long term potential risk, I know I'm being probably over cautious but we're talking about an electrically heated wire



I'm a sparky  don't do it....


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## J-A-X (Nov 11, 2011)

So what are the risks that you could see with cutting the end Snowman? And how are your trials going, any definitive answer that it works or fails?


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## saximus (Nov 11, 2011)

Mine has been going strong for a couple of weeks now. Even got a little snakey enjoying her new heat source


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## J-A-X (Nov 12, 2011)

Are you using a Thermostat ? What sort of temp have you got it on ?


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## saximus (Nov 12, 2011)

Yeah it's on a thermostat set at 31. I was getting about 34-36 testing it without the thermo and that's just a 15W cord. I reckon the 5mm stuff sounds like it works better because the cord is in direct contact with it so it gets good heat transfer


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## JungleGuy (Nov 12, 2011)

If you use the 5mm coreflute is it possible to cut the plug off the heat cord and then put a new plug on it once it has been thread through? Correct me if I'm wrong but the first part of the heat cord only contains the power and does not produce the heat output, so it should be safe to reattach a plug assuming you know how to do it correctly? Has any one got feedback from using the 5mm coreflute? 
Cheers Tim


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## Snowman (Nov 12, 2011)

Jaxrtfm said:


> So what are the risks that you could see with cutting the end Snowman? And how are your trials going, any definitive answer that it works or fails?



The risks are varied depending on the person stripping the insulation. Taking the insulation off is like taking the insulation off an extension cord. Electricity flows through the element on the heat cord which is just a higher resistance metal wire. No one should ever tamper with electrical equipment IMO. 

My test's with 10mm coreflute went very well. I have a yearling BHP living with it right now. He has a shelf that is 410x410mm which is 35 degrees on top and 28 degrees underneath. He uses both the top and underneath the shelf for basking. I used a 50w cord as I needed something longer to cover a larger heat panel and I left some hanging out to make plugging in a bit easier. I have a pulse proportional thermostat controlling the heat cord, the probe is in a hole I drilled into the shelf. It's could possibly be used without a thermostat, but keeping the temps a bit lower saves electricity. Without a thermostat I recorded the top of the shelf to be 39 degrees in a room that was 22 degrees.


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## DeadCricket (Nov 12, 2011)

In all honesty the basics of electrics are simple. If you reattach the wires correctly and firmly with no chance of the circuit completing early (insulation) then the risk is minimal


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## J-A-X (Nov 12, 2011)

Yeah.... That's what worries me.... "the risk is MINIMAL" 
That infers that there is still a risk, however slight ! 
I just don't think it's worth the risk of removing the insulation so I can use smaller coreflute. I'll wait till I can find the 10mm size. I can't see the point of risking a snake ( or worse my house ) for the $ saving of going smaller coreflute and tampering with the heat cord, and I dare say you'd have no insurance if it was proved that the doctored cord was the cause.


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## DeadCricket (Nov 12, 2011)

If done correctly and used in the correct way, the risk is the same as using the wire normally. Which also has a risk involved


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## saximus (Nov 12, 2011)

DeadCricket said:


> If done correctly and used in the correct way, the risk is the same as using the wire normally. Which also has a risk involved



Well put.

That's fair enough though Jax. If you haven't played with electricity much it's scary and if there's a solution that allows you to not do do something you're not comfortable with you might as well take that instead


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## J-A-X (Nov 12, 2011)

Let's just say I have a healthy respect for electricity and an awareness of the potential for disaster when a 'she'll be right' attitude is applied !

So no, I won't be modifying / trimming any electrical fittings or insulation


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## DeadCricket (Nov 12, 2011)

Jaxrtfm said:


> Let's just say I have a healthy respect for electricity and an awareness of the potential for disaster when a 'she'll be right' attitude is applied !
> 
> So no, I won't be modifying / trimming any electrical fittings or insulation



If you aren't comfortable with your knowledge and ability to make it safe I completely agree that you should stick with the method you are confident with. 

The 'she'll be right' attitude is never smart with electricity


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## JungleGuy (Nov 12, 2011)

wouldn't the risks involved be significantly less by re-plugging rather than stripping the insulation? does the heat cord just contain 2 internal wires in order to make the circuit?


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## saximus (Nov 12, 2011)

JungleGuy said:


> wouldn't the risks involved be significantly less by re-plugging rather than stripping the insulation? does the heat cord just contain 2 internal wires in order to make the circuit?


It has two different kinds of wire that run the whole length of the cord. One is the resistance wire which provides the necessary resistance to create the heat and the other just completes the circuit. It isn't like typical extension cable wiring. Also you don't strip it or do anything to the termination if you do it properly. I just removed enough of the thick part to make it about the same thickness as the rest of the cord. So re-plugging it would be a fair bit more complicated/risky


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## JungleGuy (Nov 12, 2011)

ok, that makes sense so does it heat by induction to the second wire or by resistance?


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## saximus (Nov 12, 2011)

Just by resistance from what I could work out. The resistance wire is specially made to have a set resistance per unit of length. So the longer it is, the higher the resistance and so the higher the power that gets converted to heat


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## JungleGuy (Nov 12, 2011)

yeah that makes sense, thanks for your help.


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## Snowman (Nov 12, 2011)

Jaxrtfm said:


> Yeah.... That's what worries me.... "the risk is MINIMAL"
> That infers that there is still a risk, however slight !
> I just don't think it's worth the risk of removing the insulation so I can use smaller coreflute. I'll wait till I can find the 10mm size. I can't see the point of risking a snake ( or worse my house ) for the $ saving of going smaller coreflute and tampering with the heat cord, and I dare say you'd have no insurance if it was proved that the doctored cord was the cause.



I've seen a lot of DIY wiring in my time and most of it is done badly. People dont understand the importance of twisting wires and doubling them over for better surface area or they nick a few strands when stripping the cable etc etc. The thing is a bad join will work for years.. Until the spot gets hot enough and you get a fire. Just because it's working doesn't mean it's safe by any means...
Doing unlicensed electrical work is like keeping snakes off license. Any tool can do it, but there is a right way and a wrong way


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## DeadCricket (Nov 14, 2011)

Snowman said:


> I've seen a lot of DIY wiring in my time and most of it is done badly. People dont understand the importance of twisting wires and doubling them over for better surface area or they nick a few strands when stripping the cable etc etc. The thing is a bad join will work for years.. Until the spot gets hot enough and you get a fire. Just because it's working doesn't mean it's safe by any means...
> Doing unlicensed electrical work is like keeping snakes off license. Any tool can do it, but there is a right way and a wrong way



All work should be competed slowly, properly and with attention to detail.

As I said earlier. If you aren't comfortable doing it, don't.


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## J-A-X (Nov 14, 2011)

*note to all the young ones reading this part of the thread*

Just because you are 'comfortable' doing something, it doesnt mean you should do it ! ! 

"playing around'' with something that could potential harm you or the ones you love is never a good idea. 

Sorry Sax, snowman and dead cricket,(and some others) I've just re-read this thread and it occured to me that we get a lot of Juniors on APS that might take some of our light hearted comments the wrong way.


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## DeadCricket (Nov 15, 2011)

Thats a good point.

I have lots of experience with electronics and understand how they work. My experience and knowledge is what makes me comfortable working with these things. Electricity is a dangerous thing that shouldn't be played with.


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## Snowman (Nov 15, 2011)

Agreed. 14 years as an electrician and 4 as an electrical designer and I still double check my work. 
Can never be too careful.


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## J-A-X (Nov 15, 2011)

Thanks guys, i dont want to see a headline 'youngster died doing something he read on the internet'

Training is the key. that way you know what the potential dangers are and can do your best to avoid them.

To get back onto topic a bit more.... I'm still trying to hunt down some decent size core flute. my brain has been running riot since this thread started, thinking of the potential for these freeform heat mats, im not having any luck sourcing it though...


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## JungleGuy (Nov 15, 2011)

Yeah, the only way I found to source the larger sizes (10mm) has been to order 3600mm x 2400mm sheets which seems a bit over kill for my current needs. Are sign makers the only sources to get it from or is it used in other industries also? Anything i was wonder is how strong is it, as in capacity to hold weight, because I'm thinking about designing and building a rack with core flute as the shelving.
Cheers Tim


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## Snowman (Nov 15, 2011)

JungleGuy said:


> Yeah, the only way I found to source the larger sizes (10mm) has been to order 3600mm x 2400mm sheets which seems a bit over kill for my current needs. Are sign makers the only sources to get it from or is it used in other industries also? Anything i was wonder is how strong is it, as in capacity to hold weight, because I'm thinking about designing and building a rack with core flute as the shelving.
> Cheers Tim



Yeah that's the size I got. But for under $90 you will only ever have to buy one sheet for a long long time.


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## JungleGuy (Nov 15, 2011)

Do you think it would be possible to make a rack using core flute as the shelves? I think I will probably reinforce the coreflute by mounting aluminium channel around the sides of each shelf, but i'm still worried that the weight of the tubs will cause too much flex...


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## saximus (Nov 15, 2011)

It depends how you attach it. It's really strong longitudinally but slightly less the other way. You could always stick two pieces together for each shelf and have the corrugations running perpendicular to each other


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## Snowman (Nov 15, 2011)

JungleGuy said:


> Do you think it would be possible to make a rack using core flute as the shelves? I think I will probably reinforce the coreflute by mounting aluminium channel around the sides of each shelf, but i'm still worried that the weight of the tubs will cause too much flex...


Absolutely. The 10mm stuff is very strong.


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## JungleGuy (Nov 15, 2011)

Yeah, I was planning to run it longitudinally to make the the heat cord run the entire width. I might order a sheet of 10mm and give it a shot in the holidays and make heat panels with my left overs. I'll keep you all updated with how I go.
Cheers Tim


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## DeadCricket (Nov 16, 2011)

This stuff is also used as packing for pallets of all sorts of stuff. If you look into the transport industry you may find some


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## Ricardo64 (Nov 17, 2011)

I don't want to steal any ones thunder I came up with something using a heat cord and three ceramic tiles.

You want the three tiles to be about 300 x 300 mm.
Cut one tile into lengths about 1/2 to an inch thick (you need to cut enough strips to cover the entire base of another tile. 
Glue the strips that you cut to the base of the other tile with a 8 mm gap between the for the heat cord. 
Weave the heat cord between the gaps then place th last tile on top and you has a ceramic heat mat.


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## Snowman (Nov 17, 2011)

Tiles and heat cord is nothing new.


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## browny (Mar 4, 2012)

so how has everyone's plans gone for this? or has every idea fallen into the too hard basket?


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## saximus (Mar 4, 2012)

I've got two of them running and they work fantastically. Only trouble is it seems like 10mm is almost impossible to find so anyone who isn't comfortable trimming the plastic off the end of the heat cord probably gave up


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## Snowman (Mar 4, 2012)

yeah I'm using them and so is a mate of mine... So easy and cheap! 
Maybe I should start ebaying 10mm coreflute in 400x400 squares.....



Ricardo64 said:


> I don't want to steal any ones thunder I came up with something using a heat cord and three ceramic tiles.
> 
> You want the three tiles to be about 300 x 300 mm.
> Cut one tile into lengths about 1/2 to an inch thick (you need to cut enough strips to cover the entire base of another tile.
> ...



That's nothing new. The tile sandwich is the original heat cord pad.


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## saximus (Mar 4, 2012)

Forget ebay Snowman. Just sell it on here and you'll have plenty of customers


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## Snowman (Mar 4, 2012)

Hahaha yeah. Problem is the edges are a bit rough when I cut it with the jigsaw. I'm sure people would winge about it instead of just cleaning it up with a knife.....
I just made a hatchy rack with the 10mm coreflute. Works really well too.  
(well not a proper rack. My tubs still have lids. But they sit on coreflute shelves with cord run through it)


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## browny (Mar 4, 2012)

I can't believe it's so hard to get hold of the 10mm, if those who can get a sheet of it should get others to go in on it then it would be stupid cheap


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## Snowman (Mar 4, 2012)

Yeah it's easy to get 10mm coreflute in Perth. I get it from a plastics place.


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## Raymonde (Mar 5, 2012)

I got some in Brisbane from BFS plastics in salisbury


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## disintegratus (Mar 7, 2012)

I tried this for my two hatchies, I used smaller size coreflute as I had a spare piece laying around. I think I did the same as someone else did (I can't be bothered trying to find the post) and slit the coreflute along where I wanted the heat cord to go. To make it easier to handle, I used a strip of gaffa to tape it up again afterwards, so it didn't bend. Works a treat! Only problem is I've got about 2m of heat cord just flailing about the place now because it's way too long! (I only had a spare 25 watt cord, I could definitely go down to a 15 watt, just haven't got one yet.)


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