# Remove shelf from TV cabinet



## jacevy (Jun 25, 2013)

I have scored a corner TV unit for $5. It is perfect in all ways except it has a shelf half way vertically up the unit. I would love to remove the shelf and if at all use the same piece of timber to make a shelf higher up.

The shelf is secured all the way around. I could hack the shelf away with a saw and/or screw driver but this would leave a mess. Is there any way to remove the shelf without ruining the enclosure or the shelf?


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## Norm (Jun 25, 2013)

Hard to say without a pic to see how the shelf is fixed to the unit.


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## Rogue5861 (Jun 25, 2013)

With mine the shelf was glued an nailed from both sides, only way to get it out nicely would be a nail punch an punch the nails further into the shelf.

I didnt need the shelf in mine an just knocked it out with a hammer. Got to remember most of these units are stained after assemble an you will end up will a part not stained (where the shelf used to be).


Rick


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## jacevy (Jun 25, 2013)

Ok I think this is going to be the beginning of a large number of dumb questions.
1) I tried hitting it with a hammer and I do believe it sneered at me and I think I heard a faint mocking chuckle!!! Needless to say nothing moved.
2) Could I kind of hack away at it with a saw and make a shelf for the snake out of it? I could then combine the background wall I want to make so it all comes together.


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## J-A-X (Jun 25, 2013)

Can you post a pic so we can all see and offer suggestions ? 
What are you planning on putting in it ?


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## Baturb (Jun 26, 2013)

I would suggest leave it in there, cut away enough to open up the enclosure and turn the rest of the shelf into the warm basking area, no need to remove what's already there, adapt to suit your reptiles needs could end up with one terrific enclosure


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## jacevy (Jun 26, 2013)

Baturb said:


> I would suggest leave it in there, cut away enough to open up the enclosure and turn the rest of the shelf into the warm basking area, no need to remove what's already there, adapt to suit your reptiles needs could end up with one terrific enclosure



Indeed this is what ended up doing.

I am a complete photo to computer idiot so there is basically no chance of photos. 

I have now decided to use the shelf as a basking area. I think I'll add a rod coming down from the outer edge to help strengthen. Around the rod I'll put foam and create a rock pillar effect. That is the plan. I should end up looking like a lopsided melted bowl if my artistic ability wins through.... hmm maybe I could get the kids to help..


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## dangles (Jun 26, 2013)

I used a jigsaw to cut as close as possible to the wall. then followed with smacking the crap outta it with a hammer until it came free. An option is to cut a hole and put some pvc pipe through. Have a basking area up top and an ambient temp down bottom


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## jacevy (Jun 26, 2013)

dangles said:


> I used a jigsaw to cut as close as possible to the wall. then followed with smacking the crap outta it with a hammer until it came free. An option is to cut a hole and put some pvc pipe through. Have a basking area up top and an ambient temp down bottom



Yep. Unfortunately this would require a jigsaw.
I'm going to hire one from Bunnings to cut the vent holes but before then only a good old hand saw in this house. Might I just say my arm is killing me today..... I really do need to do more exercise!!


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## Rogue5861 (Jun 26, 2013)

jacevy said:


> Yep. Unfortunately this would require a jigsaw.
> I'm going to hire one from Bunnings to cut the vent holes but before then only a good old hand saw in this house. Might I just say my arm is killing me today..... I really do need to do more exercise!!



You can buy one from them for around $25-$35, i would buy one that ya can use for other projects.


Rick


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## jacevy (Jun 26, 2013)

Really!
Very interesting.

I have more dumb questions!!!!!!

I want to have a variety of substrates for my snake to slither through. I would like a patch of fake grass but I want the enclosure to look as natural as possible. Where my Wheatbelt Stimson comes from there is hardly ever lovely bright green grass. Do you think I could somehow paint or colour it? Yes yes a very dumb question I know.

Number 2 silly question.

Keeping along the lines of the enclosure looking natural, is there a place to buy native plants. You know like the ones you see at museums (tufts of grass etc) not just bright green ones to look pretty in the house.


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## Rogue5861 (Jun 26, 2013)

RZilla make a brown grass substrate, very love pile and would probably suit your enclosure.

Ill PM you a link for plants if ya want.


Rick


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## jacevy (Jun 26, 2013)

Rogue5861 said:


> RZilla make a brown grass substrate, very love pile and would probably suit your enclosure.
> 
> Ill PM you a link for plants if ya want.
> 
> ...



That would be great


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## Bart70 (Jun 26, 2013)

We have a shop here that specialises in artificial plants....(they are also a small florist but most of their shop is silk/plastic plants) that I have found to be excellent. 

They sell complete plants (some can be expensive, others not so much) as well as 'bits' of plants that can be bent/twisted/dismantled and 'hot glued' to existing logs and enclosure fixtures to add effect.

For example, I bought 5 stiff 'vines' about 60cm long for $1 each recently - They had a stiff flexible centre and could be bent/twisted around things. They made a lovely addition to my Bredli enclosure strung between the branches and 'twisted off' so they didn't move. He loves hiding amongst them.

I decked out my MD's enclosure with a 'grassland' theme for about $30. They had some small imitation eucalypt branches but sold out - When they come in will be buying a couple, breaking them up, and 'hot gluing' small pieces to the vertical branches in the Bredli enclosure so they look like the branches have trigs and leaves growing from it. This shop stocks a lot of native plants and different dryland grasses etc....

Try looking for an artificial plant store, or a florist that does dried flower arrangements and may have the bits and pieces - the smaller pieces that this store stock are the ones they use for decorative flower arrangements.


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## jacevy (Jun 27, 2013)

Thanks for all the help so far.

Next question.
If you use a thermostat with a globe does it have to be on a dimmer?
I just can't imagine the temps getting to the high end of range and then the whole globe turning off. Then the temp drops 3 or 4 degrees and it flashes back on.
Wouldn't the whole enclosure be like a disco?
Does the on off of the globe not confuse the poor snake? lol


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## saximus (Jun 27, 2013)

jacevy said:


> Thanks for all the help so far.
> 
> Next question.
> If you use a thermostat with a globe does it have to be on a dimmer?
> ...



The snake wouldn't care; it's more about the number of globes you will be going through. Constantly cycling a globe reduces its life considerably. If you want to use an on/off thermo, maybe look at heat panel, heat cord or CHE


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## Bart70 (Jun 27, 2013)

jacevy said:


> Thanks for all the help so far.
> 
> Next question.
> If you use a thermostat with a globe does it have to be on a dimmer?
> ...



Does not have to be a dimming thermosat to use with globes.......but globes will generally last longer on a dimming thermostat as the physical shock to the filament is much less when turned on gradually as opposed to turned on and off at full voltage.

I have not used switching thermostats with globes so cannot comment on the 'disco' or if there is any impact on the snakes.

Personally I like dimming thermostats in general - The type I use are only about $20 more than the switching type and when used with globes we believe would be a lot less annoying to humans (our snakes are kept in our living areas of our house) as the light intensity varies gradually and most of the time is only on full intensity when it first comes on in the mornings then fades off as the enclosure comes up to temp (my adult snakes are not on night heating).


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## jacevy (Jun 28, 2013)

Thanks heaps for the responses. You are all life savers.

Another question.

I would like the water bowl to not be a uniform shape. I'm going to make it look like the water has trickled down the rock and is in a pool at the bottom. Unfortunately there are not non-uniform bowls available unless you want a kidney shape. So my question is could I get some foam and shape the water area and then when I'm making my background use the Pond Sealer to seal the dish I have made? Would this seal tight enough to hold water on a permanent basis?


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## saximus (Jun 28, 2013)

jacevy said:


> So my question is could I get some foam and shape the water area and then when I'm making my background use the Pond Sealer to seal the dish I have made? Would this seal tight enough to hold water on a permanent basis?



As the name suggests, it is made for sealing ponds so, yes it will hold water indefinitely. Just test it out for a couple of weeks before using it though. I remember seeing threads on here of people who either didn't let it dry for long enough or for some other reason it made the water go cloudy. I can't remember the exact cause but, if used correctly, it should be fine


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## J-A-X (Jun 28, 2013)

4 or so coats applied at right angles to each other. Then allow to dry thoroughly. Then fill with water and "flush" the bowl as per the directions. I'd do it a couple of times to be sure


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## jacevy (Jun 30, 2013)

The enclosure is going along great. I'm very proud.

I have a heat question though.
I want the heat lamp to be up the top corner coming down on an angle. I have looked back through show us your enclosure threads and it seems that all heat lamps come straight down from the roof. Is there any way I could build the light in to the roof and then angle it down? Is there some type of swivel joint that can be used?


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## andynic07 (Jun 30, 2013)

jacevy said:


> The enclosure is going along great. I'm very proud.
> 
> I have a heat question though.
> I want the heat lamp to be up the top corner coming down on an angle. I have looked back through show us your enclosure threads and it seems that all heat lamps come straight down from the roof. Is there any way I could build the light in to the roof and then angle it down? Is there some type of swivel joint that can be used?


Maybe a gimble downlight.


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## saximus (Jun 30, 2013)

There are GU10 adaptors you can get from Bunnings that twist and swivel to any angle you need. They do need to be wired up but otherwise they are quite cheap and as most people on here know by now they are fairly good heat producers.


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