# Woma Care Sheet Needed Please



## WomaBoy (Aug 9, 2012)

Hey, i am really struggling finding a reliable tanami woma python care sheet, if possible could you please link a good one or just give me some advice on what i need to set up a tank and how to take care of one

Thanks Sam


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## thomasssss (Aug 9, 2012)

here you go hope the link works , its from the sxr website


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## WomaBoy (Aug 9, 2012)

Thanks


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## leamos (Aug 9, 2012)

Yeah that SXR article/caresheet is great, another good one can be found in the Issue 3 - '09 of 'Odatria' an online mag found on the Vic. herp society website


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## WomaBoy (Aug 9, 2012)

Thank youu!


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## reptalica (Aug 9, 2012)

Was there anything specific u wanted to know or find out. There are plenty of Woma keepers and breeders on this site and I'm sure you will get some fantastic, worthwhile info from these people as I did when I got my first one a few months ago.


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## leamos (Aug 9, 2012)

Oh and it won't be last woma you buy, I guarantee, i'm hunting for more womas atm hahaha


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## WomaBoy (Aug 10, 2012)

Yeah could any of yous provide me with a list of what i need to set up an enclosure ? As in a woodern one with sliding doors

Thanks so much !!


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## thomasssss (Aug 10, 2012)

thermostat to control temps, id go a good one myself microclimate or habistat ,

a thermometer to monitor your temps , i use the urs dual probe thermometers myself and think they work great 

obviously some type of heating , i use ceramic heat emitters myself and think they work well but they dont produce any light , theres heaps of ways to heat enclosures out there though 

a hide preferably at each end of the enclosure and a water bowl 

and sub straight of your choice but remember womas like to burrow so if you want to watch that then a loose sub straight is best just watch at feeding time they dont ingest a heap of it , i feed in a bare feeding tub to avoid that because i figure better safe than sorry 

pretty sure thats the basics covered


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## WomaBoy (Aug 10, 2012)

Thanks , which type is afforable but good quailty ??( thermostat) and i have a flurosecent light and an red heating globe socket, all i need i think is thermostat, thermoter, red globe heat mat, water bowl substratee and yeah i think thats it. Is that correct ??

Thanks


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## reptalica (Aug 10, 2012)

leamos said:


> Oh and it won't be last woma you buy, I guarantee, i'm hunting for more womas atm hahaha



You're not wrong there mate. Even the cheese 'n' kisses has got him out twice.........admittedly after "eleventy-six red wines".


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## WomaBoy (Aug 10, 2012)

Are wall thermostats good ??


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## Bigchewy (Aug 10, 2012)

http://nswfmpa.org/Husbandry Manuals/Published Manuals/Reptilia/Woma Python.pd.


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## WomaBoy (Aug 10, 2012)

it said page not found sorry


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## thomasssss (Aug 10, 2012)

microclimates come with a 10 year warranty , so imo well what they cost , during summer when ambient temps arnt so bloddy cold and my ceramic heat emitter can cope better all my microclimates keep the temp to the set temp and only fluctuates by about 0.3c


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## Umbral (Aug 10, 2012)

BenjiBoy said:


> Thanks , which type is afforable but good quailty ??( thermostat) and i have a flurosecent light and an red heating globe socket, all i need i think is thermostat, thermoter, red globe heat mat, water bowl substratee and yeah i think thats it. Is that correct ??
> 
> Thanks


This might sound basic but it's worth mentioning. Make sure your lights have cages around them to stop your snakes coming in contact with the globe.

While womas arnt the worlds best climbers they do still do it and without cages lights are a hazard.


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## thomasssss (Aug 10, 2012)

Umbral said:


> This might sound basic but it's worth mentioning. Make sure your lights have cages around them to stop your snakes coming in contact with the globe.
> 
> While womas arnt the worlds best climbers they do still do it and without cages lights are a hazard.


thats one i forgot , yes cages around any globes even ones that are just for viewing and don't produce heat , if they coil around it they could break the globe


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## rvcasa (Aug 11, 2012)

BenjiBoy said:


> it said page not found sorry



There's an 'F' missing at end of that link... 
It should end in PDF. 

I'm now using a brand new thermostat I got on ebay for $12 (incl. delivery) and it does the same job as my old $45 one!

The same for infrared bulbs initially I paid $30 and now Reptile One are 8 bucks for a 75W. 
A ceramic batten holder is $10 if you shop around. 

I use red desert sand as substrate. 
(Bunnings has river sand for around $8)
Once dried, the desert sand becomes quite compact, easier to clean as its not loose sand and so it doesnt go everywhere. 

My Woma likes to rub its mouth/chin against it after a meal. 
It's really cool watching it 'crane digging' with its head. 

As I handle it often, so it never defecates inside. 

I personally think it looks apart!
(as I also have mini Spinifex grass, red rock and a hollow log)


P.S. I got rid off my ceramic heat emitters - I hate them!

They get extremely hot, they're way overpriced and dry up the air inside enclosure. 
Unlike IR bulbs, they don't seem to throw heat as far down the floor of enclosure, so the top of enclosure is all bent/bow from excessive heat and floor not so hot...

My personal experience and therefore preference, btw. 

Good luck. 


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BenjiBoy said:


> Are wall thermostats good ??



They're dying out...

Best is a dimming thermostat!


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## Bigchewy (Aug 11, 2012)

Type in aspidites ramsayi on google and u see PDF that's tells whole thing a lot better then others


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## WomaBoy (Aug 11, 2012)

thanks! do i need a heaat mat or will the red light be good enoughh ??


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## rvcasa (Aug 11, 2012)

BenjiBoy said:


> thanks! do i need a heaat mat or will the red light be good enoughh ??



Initially, when I first got my Woma, 2 breeders told me they should have heat all year round when they're young... 

That means heat mat and infrareds (or similar) and therefore keep feeding through winter as well (proving temps are hight) for the first 2 years, although some snakes may refuse food in winter earlier, when they're 1 or so, which is not a worry. 

When they're older and not so shy, you may only need an IR as they'll come out of their hide more often to bask under the IR!

From my research, up in QLD, where winter is warmer, (adult) Womas are kept at higher temps, than SA. 

SXR's enclosure drawing on care sheet is not 100% correct for Womas... He used a drawing for his other adult snakes that need higher humidity - that's why the water bowl is on the hot side, but should be placed on the cool side instead (unless necessary during shed)

Here's another graphic from Pythons1:






As you can see on this example, it has 2 hides, more suitable for young and shy snakes. 

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## Bigchewy (Aug 11, 2012)

I have woma I use 35watt downlight hoalgen 12v light or u can use 240v 35watts hoalgen downlight for basking at day and 35 watt heat mat for floor heating under tile controlled by thermostat works well but everybody setup is different depend how long u want them to last  I leave heat mat on all the time


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## WomaBoy (Aug 12, 2012)

rvcasa said:


> Initially, when I first got my Woma, 2 breeders told me they should have heat all year round when they're young...
> 
> That means heat mat and infrareds (or similar) and therefore keep feeding through winter as well (proving temps are hight) for the first 2 years, although some snakes may refuse food in winter earlier, when they're 1 or so, which is not a worry.
> 
> ...


Thaanks 



Bigchewy said:


> I have woma I use 35watt downlight hoalgen 12v light or u can use 240v 35watts hoalgen downlight for basking at day and 35 watt heat mat for floor heating under tile controlled by thermostat works well but everybody setup is different depend how long u want them to last  I leave heat mat on all the time


Hoalgen ???


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## Rob (Aug 12, 2012)

You are aware that woma's are known to have a propensity to just "latch on and have a munch" while being handled ? Given your concern about being bitten by a hatchie Childreni, this is probably something you should know.


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## rvcasa (Aug 12, 2012)

Bigchewy said:


> I have woma I use 35watt downlight hoalgen 12v light or u can use 240v 35watts hoalgen downlight for basking at day and 35 watt heat mat for floor heating under tile controlled by thermostat works well but everybody setup is different depend how long u want them to last  I leave heat mat on all the time




Do you mean halogen?

I never used them with any of my pets or even at home... (only scuba diving and that was many years ago) I don' think they produce enough heat for a reptile enclosure and they're way too bright!

What do you use at night time?


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## Ramsayi (Aug 12, 2012)

rvcasa said:


> Do you mean halogen?
> 
> I never used them with any of my pets or even at home... (only scuba diving and that was many years ago) I don' think they produce enough heat for a reptile enclosure and they're way too bright!
> 
> What do you use at night time?



Halogens work great.I have been using 50W halogens for years and they throw a heap of heat easily giving a 35c basking spot at a distance of 600mm.Snakes don't seem to mind them either,albinos included.


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## Bigchewy (Aug 13, 2012)

U can spray the lights with engine heat spray blue red or black I haven't tried that yet I wonder if someone already done it


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## Rob (Aug 14, 2012)

Bigchewy said:


> U can spray the lights with engine heat spray blue red or black I haven't tried that yet I wonder if someone already done it



I was doing this around 10 years ago to save money on buying the IR globes. It worked OK, although they didn't tend to last any longer than the IR globes, just much cheaper. There was no light at all though - the paint is so thick no light gets through - just heats up. Red, Blue, Black makes no difference - It didn't change the colour of the light emitted (just blocked it out), and I can't imagine the paints of today would be any different.

I wouldn't do it again, as I prefer to be able to see the light - it's a quick indicator of a blown bulb for a start, but I guess it is an option if someone wants to do it on the cheap.

I would let the paint dry, then run the globes outside for an hour or so to eliminate the fumes.


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## Bigchewy (Aug 14, 2012)

I saw one at bunnings they have red light but it got aluminum coating back of the halogen I thought it might give focus heat on one spot instead of fanning out worried might burn on one spot of the snake skin .wonder if u guys have experience about aluminum coating halogen downlights?


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## rvcasa (Aug 15, 2012)

Rob_N_Son said:


> ... I guess it is an option if someone wants to do it on the cheap...



An infrared from Reprile One costs 8 bucks, how much cheaper is the paint?


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## Rob (Aug 15, 2012)

rvcasa said:


> An infrared from Reprile One costs 8 bucks, how much cheaper is the paint?



Back then I was paying $25+ per IR globe. Standard globes I think I could get 2 for a dollar, so by the time I paid (maybe $10) for the paint I was still way in front. There are much better options available now (some of these may have been available back then but they were nowhere near as widely used/available as now) - heat cords, heat mats, heat panels, CHE's, etc.

Besides, I reckon you're doing alright with IR globes @ $8 each....... I'm still paying $18 for mine.


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## rvcasa (Aug 15, 2012)

Oh I see, I thought you were buying the paint now...

Yeah 50W = $8, 75W & 100W = $12
Initially they didn't last long (couple months or so), but for 8 bucks I didn't care. 

I've since adjust temps, so there's less switch ON/OFF and also found out petshop does replace them within 12 months 


P.S. I don't like Che's, I've just changed back to IRs. 
Che's get way too hot to point of bending/bow the top lid of my enclosure! (only on hot side) 

And I believe they don't throw heat as far down to cage floor as IRs do. 

Just my personal experience though. 


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## thomasssss (Aug 15, 2012)

@ rvcasa if the roof of your enclosure bowed in then it was always going to bow in because its wasn't supported properly , the heat may have helped it along but it isnt the sole cause and would have happened eventually even if it wasn't heated , i use ceramic heat emitters in homemade enclosures that have plenty of support in the roof and have not had the slightest bow in any of the enclosures


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## rvcasa (Aug 15, 2012)

I understand where you're coming from, but I noticed the 'extreme' bow only happened since I installed the 100W che...

I forgot to mention since I got rid of che, it's almost back to normal. 

As far as support, it's exactly the same support as any Saburra 120 from Reptile One. 

Cheers. 


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## thomasssss (Aug 15, 2012)

rvcasa said:


> As far as support, it's exactly the same support as any Saburra 120 from Reptile One.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> ...


what sort of support do they have in the roof ? any or are they just a melamine roof with no actual frame support , and yes like i said the heat may have helped but it isnt the only cause and removing it wont solve the problem entirely , over time moisture will bow it 

wood bows over time if it isnt supported properly or isnt stored properly ( ever seen big lengths of wood bow so far out of shape their useless just from being left out side ) thats more what i was getting at , if the enclosure bowed then it was always going to happen even if it had absolutely no heat in it at all other factors would have come into play like moisture and our old friend gravity


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## rvcasa (Aug 15, 2012)

thomasssss said:


> ...i use... homemade enclosures that have plenty of support in the roof...



What do you mean by that?
I've never seen any enclosures with support on the roof, commercial or handmade.
Am I missing something?


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## thomasssss (Aug 15, 2012)

well what i mean is a solid wooden frame then just ply or similar walls , , ive seen plenty like that , ive made them using the same specs you would use for a fish tank stand so i can stack them and they work great ill post some photos of what i mean if i can be bothered 

or is it just thick melamine or ply with out any frame , i think that may be what it is which is why it has sagged because it had no support ive seen this in my mates enclosures that i believe may be the same as yours


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## Rob (Aug 16, 2012)

thomasssss said:


> ill post some photos of what i mean if i can be bothered



Please be bothered, Thomas. I reckon more people would be interested than you realise.


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## thomasssss (Aug 16, 2012)

Rob_N_Son said:


> Please be bothered, Thomas. I reckon more people would be interested than you realise.


righto , just for you rob   still got to take the photos so ill put them up later today

ok so as you can see i have put a piece of wood running along the roof ( roughly 37 cm apart )to support the piece of ply and stop it from sagging and where my hand is there is another piece of wood running downwards but you cant see it because its covered up with a background , the piece of wood you can see running along the top of the background is actually part of the frame as well 

to bad i didn't take any pics when i was making it would have been alot easier to explain , but ive drawn a very very rough drawing to show what the frame would look like with out any walls or any thing , the thicker black line at the front is another piece of wood for support i just didn't finish it of because it got in the way of the rest of the lines and the dotted lines are the support for the roof and running down the back walls


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## WomaBoy (Aug 18, 2012)

does thiss loook like a good woma ?


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## andynic07 (Aug 18, 2012)

Any snake looks great to me but as long as you think you have a good snake that is all that matters.


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## WomaBoy (Aug 18, 2012)

Yeah truee, well i am getting that womaa in a week


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