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Twiggz

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Ok well over the next month or so i am hoping to better rearrange the layout of my collection. In the process of doing this i am hoping to reduce the amount of powerpoint plugs by using heat cord instead of heat mats. My intention was to just buy the biggest cord available so as to cover the most surface area needed using one plug. My query is, being that i keep mainly geckos and that the biggest cord is 9m (and 80watts), would this be ok to do?

I'm mainly concerned with the wattage. Most of my matts are 30-45w and they do the trick, but my way of thinking is that so long as i only have one straight strand under each tank, i should get the same result. Worse case scenario i could use a thermostat to control the temps, but i was wondering as to what others do??

Any ideas appreciated. Plenty of time to ponder also, hoping to start reshuffling next week.

Regards
Mat
 
Hey Twiggs,
I dont think you have to worry about the wattage. The cords come in sizes such as 4metres with only 15 watts and 6metres at 50watts, etc... I think you need the 80watts to heat the whole 9metres mate, if you can make sense of that... :D
Bill.
 
Guess you would have to turn it on and check what temp it got up to. And make sure that it does go up to the temperature you need. I have been tricked a few times with some of the heat mats available, they dont get up to 32 + . I need 32 for my pythons
 
Yeah i use heat cords they are great,1 or 2 strands will be enoughf just router grooves in the timber and run the cords along.I would connect a thermostat and have the probe sitting in 1 tank but will control all the tanks just incase.
Yes 80w does sound high but i think it needs to be as the cord is so long lower watts wouldnt heat such a long cord.But i only use 15,25 and 50w cords
 
I have used 15watts and always get around 31-31 .
I have had a 50watt wired up with the same set up and still get around 31-32 .....so from what i can tell the length / wattage seemed to make no difference ..
I would just run the cord and use a thermo if you are worried .
 
Yeah thanks for that bonustokin- i assumed that was the case. I'm mainly wanting to see what other people use regarding length and wattages, and as i said there is also the possibility of a stat. should temps get to warm.

The tanks/enclosures i'm hoping will all be side by side, with the cord running from either right to left or left to right along the back half-third or the tanks- so i wont loose much heat.
 
Thats interesting Dickyknee. To a degree i guess its understandable, but then again i would assume their to be differing temps. Hmmm.
 
Hi Matt,

I think I can help you out there. I had the same problem wanting to do the same thing - heat a number of enclosures with heatcord - you are right, it gets a bit much using multiple heatmats. I asked a few related questions regarding lengths/wattage/amount of the heatcord needed and got varied, and not terribly accurate answers. Therefore I've worked it out on my own.

Hopefully what I have done will help you work out what you need (this is the info I would have liked myself!):

I have slotted shelving 1300 long with particleboard shelves, one with 4x 30x30x45 Exo Terras side by side, the other with 4 smaller plastic tubs.

The Exo shelf is using an 80w heatcord, routed into 5 slots, approx 2cm apart (obviously 1300mm long) in particle board (the rest of the cord is routed in a single slot on the shelf above to give some minimal artificial heat to frog tanks, but more because I had the excess length I had to do something with!). This heats about 1/3 of the rear of the tanks. This gives me 28-30deg in the hot spot, down to mid 20's in the cool.

The shelf with the tubs is using nearly 3x 1300 shelf lengths (routed again into the particleboard) of only a 25w heatcord (Due to the length of the cord not all being heated the last tub is getting 2 and a bit lengths under it). Once again, these are sitting around the same temps on the substrate (a few cm of peat/sand) as the exos.

I was quite surprised and it took a few changes of heatcord to do this as I underestimated the heat required for the exos - this is because the exos are so well ventilated (and glass) they loose a lot more heat than the tubs that only have a few dozen small holes drilled in the lids. I started off using shorter/cooler heatcord for the exos and it eventually got to the right temps, but only mid-day during warmish weather so really wasn't good enough, and clearly when day temps dropped would have been useless. I will point out I have not tested this setup in the middle of winter, but on colder nights the temps when I wake up have been perfect in the hot spot. I can't see it being a problem as you would expect to give them slightly cooler temps during winter anyway.

Since they are going to be on a thermostat anyway, just make sure you err on the side of getting a warmer cord than required.

Oh, and don't listen to anyone that says all heatcords are the same temp, just longer - its rubbish. To prove this, plug in a 4m 15w without a thermostat, as well as a 6m 50w, give them time to get to full temp, then hold each in your hand - they do NOT give out the same temp per area of cord - the 15w is hardly warm, the 50w will be very hot in your hand. I think people get confused by feeling the warmth when they are plugged into a thermostat - but any cord will only get to the thermostats set temps!

Hope this helps. PM me if you have any more questions.
 
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Nah thats helped heaps. Giving me a good run down. Cheers
Another issue i had, and you just brielfy brought it to light for me, was regarding the exo terras. You see i'm hoping not o have to route in the timber base. Under all my enclosures i have a sheet of foam so it can be simply pressed in all going well. Regarding the exo's, you know how their base has that recessed base (ie the edges lift the actual glass base from the ground level) how did you treat this?? Tape the cord to the glass bottom or not worry about it??

Like you my exo's will house golden tails and spiny's and at present i use a higher watt mat to compensate for this recess- currently works well but has me puzzled with what to do when i conform to cord.
 
Nah thats helped heaps. Giving me a good run down. Cheers
Another issue i had, and you just brielfy brought it to light for me, was regarding the exo terras. You see i'm hoping not o have to route in the timber base. Under all my enclosures i have a sheet of foam so it can be simply pressed in all going well. Regarding the exo's, you know how their base has that recessed base (ie the edges lift the actual glass base from the ground level) how did you treat this?? Tape the cord to the glass bottom or not worry about it??

Like you my exo's will house golden tails and spiny's and at present i use a higher watt mat to compensate for this recess- currently works well but has me puzzled with what to do when i conform to cord.

As for the little lip under the exo terras , i would cut a piece of foam to fit under the cage and just run the cord over the top of the foam , so it runs between the cage and the foam ....
 
Hey Matt,

I know what you mean with the exos base. I just leave it as is. Although to minimise heat loss I did buy a few lengths of square wood (like garden stake size, about 2cm square) and cut lengths just to put along the back, front and sides - its not in the way and probably stops some heat loss through the gaps. Someone mentioned to me about whether the base is removable or whether it would effect strength - I've never looked closely at the base as now they all have something in them its a bit hard to turn them upside down to check, if you have an empty one, take a look and see if its a possibility.
 
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