how to keep basking point temp stable for bearded dragons? please help

[deadset]

hi all
im new to keeping reptiles and i have just got two young beardies

the trouble is im having a really hard time keeping their basking spot temp steady, im trying to keep a big rock at around 40 degrees. i have them in a 4ft glass enclosure with reptile one uvb 10.0 tube, 150watt ceramic heat emitter connected to dimming thermostat and a reptile one 35watt halogen light.

thermostat sensor is about 25cm from CHE. CHE is about 13cm above basking spot.

ideally i would like their basking spot/big rock to stay close to 40 degrees and most of the time it is but for some reason it sometimes drops down very low (around 25 degrees) and then back up again and continues to drop and rise. i assume it is the thermostat dimming the heat source that is causing this because when the big rock temp drops the CHE temp also drops down to about 50deg although it is usually around 150-200deg

if anyone knows how to keep basking spot temp stable or has any advice it would be much appreciated.

thanks

 

[Ramsayi]

If I was you I would hook up a 50W spotlight above the basking site with no thermostat.If that didn't get adequate temps go up to a 60 or 75W depending on how far out the temp was.Maybe keep the che on a thermostat if you wanted to supply some background heat overnight.

 

[deadset]

If I was you I would hook up a 50W spotlight above the basking site with no thermostat.If that didn't get adequate temps go up to a 60 or 75W depending on how far out the temp was.Maybe keep the che on a thermostat if you wanted to supply some background heat overnight.

thanks for the tip Ramsayi, i will look into getting a bigger spotlight

 

[Jacknife]

I have my Beardie in a URS glass 4x2x2 and run a 100w Day Light heat lamp on no thermostat and it keeps a perfect basking spot of 45c-47c. Room pretty much keeps a constant temp of 22c-23c dropping to about 17c overnight.

 

[Tabby]

i dont keep beardies, frill necks instead.. but i would defiantly say run any dragon or monitors lights without a thermostat. theres no need for it if you get the right wattage.
all it will do is cost you more money, one for getting the thermostat, and two for replacing stupid sensitive bulbs.

I would also swap the CHE with a Basking bulb or spot light... and swap the halogen for the CHE if you wanted to provide heat at night...

 

[Jarrod_H]

Just dice the CHE and get a Exo terra intense spot light 50w-75w, keep the dimming thermostat.
At night if needed use a heat mat under a section on the tank

 

[deadset]

thanks for the replies guys, sounds like no thermostat is the way to go. but how do you account for big swings in ambient temp, a really hot or cold day would throw the basking temp out wouldn't it?

wow frill necks - thats awesome, they get so big though do you need a custom enclosure for them?

 

[Ramsayi]

No need to buy reptile branded globes.Just get normal spots from bunnings or the supermarket.

 

[Tabby]

theres obviously a little give eaither way depending on the weather.. but most houses insulation is good enough to help with most fluctuations.
I use a higher wattage in winter, and a lower one in summer. works fine.

 

[Rogue5861]

thanks for the replies guys, sounds like no thermostat is the way to go. but how do you account for big swings in ambient temp, a really hot or cold day would throw the basking temp out wouldn't it?

I run a 42w halogen for my beardie, no thermostat. I also have an inline dimmer setup for when ambient temps change, i just adjust it to suit the day.


Rick

 

[Tabby]

As for the frillys, yeah they need more room than a beardie... and yes i get the enclosures custom made.

 

[deadset]

cheers for the great advice everyone

 

[Bluetongue1]

...but how do you account for big swings in ambient temp, a really hot or cold day would throw the basking temp out wouldn't it? ...

CHE are designed to run at or near capacity. A 150W CHE runing at maximum is going to put a lot of radiant heat. Given the limited distance from the CHE to the basking spot in your viv, if allowed to run at capacity it would produce very high temperatures. I suspect the reason for its abnormal performance is that it is barely able to get started.

It is never a good idea to use over-powered heating units controlled by a thermostat. If the thermostat fails, the heating device may then be able to run at full capacity. Reptiles succumb very quickly to excessive temperatures. You should always aim to use the minimum wattage required to attain the required temperatures.


Bearded Dragons expect to get their light, heat and UVB from the same source. They will also make use warm surfaces to absorb heat - which is what yours appear to be doing rather than parking themselves directly under the CHE. An added reason to follow the good advice given.


Blue