Securing Light Fittings

[888lowndes888]

Having only used heatmats I was wondering how people secure their light fittings for lizard enclosures. I have a ceramic fitting on the end of a cord and have no idea how I am going to suspend it. Also do people use thermostats with lizard basking lights or do you just secure it at height which gives the desired temp.
Cheers,

 

[pythonmum]

I don't have lizards, but the principles are the same... ALWAYS use a thermostat with heat sources, because temperatures will vary and you don't want to cook your animals. I've always run the cord through a small hole, hooked up the ceramic batten holder and then screwed it to the mounting block or appropriate spot in the enclosure. Put a light cage around the heat source even if they theoretically can't climb. Remember Murphy's Law!

 

[Ewan]

It really depends on the design and construction material of your enclosure. I had a beardie enclosure with a ventilated top. I simply disconected the cables from the ceramic fitting fed the cable through the mesh and re connected the fitting inside the enclosure. I used heavy cable zip ties to fix the chord to the mesh. Because of the amount of ventilation, with the correct wattage globe, I did not need a thermostat. I simplly moved the light closer to or further away from the backsing site to maintain the correct temperature. The cool end remained at ambient temperature. If you have a timber enclosure you will probably need a good dimming probe thermostat. Never use heat and UV all in one globes on a thermostat. Hope this helps.

 

[GrumpyTheSnake]

If your enclosure is timber, look up a member: Dickyknee. He has the perfect photo of how to secure your overhead heat sourse or lighting. It is very easy to do, still looks great, and there are no wires sticking out the top of the enclosure.

 

[888lowndes888]

Thanks guys that does help. I would still rather use a thermostat and have one on my blonde mac's exo-terra heatmat but was talking to the rep today and he reckons it will stay at a constant 32 degrees and thermostats arent needed, so I may see how that goes tonight and if this is the case use that thermostat if not i'll just buy one. The tank is a 6ft 12mm thick glass tank with no lids as of yet but I will make metal mesh panels i think. Today I purchased a large metal dog bowl and will cut a hole in the top and secure the ceramic part of the fitting into the top of the bowl and place the bowl upside down above the basking area with the globe aiming straight down.

 

[dickyknee]

I use a block with a channel in the top to feed the wires out the back , nice and neat ..

 

[Chris1]

my beardy tank has a thermostat built in thats set so high it only turns off on maybe 2 of the hottest days in summer,...apart from that i just build the basking area up or down and use different wattage globes to keep the right temps thruout the year.

its a big tank though with pegboard backing and i always leave the dooors open incase the dragons want to run around the lounge room so theres no chance of them over heating.

the boys tank gets really hot though and i have to leave the top propped open for some heat to escape,...so the necessity of thermostats really depends on teh tank.

the block idea is great, dad just screwed mine into the top with the cord poking out so i cant put another tank on top of it!!

 

[GrumpyTheSnake]

Thanks Dicky

 

[fraser888]

Dicky it looks great!

 

[dazza74]

i made my light box out of melamine ,both sides are a 100 mm high so my wiring is hidden.the wiring pokes out the back just like dickyknees and used small L brackets to mount it to the roof.so they can be stackable