Sick Beardie?

Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum

Help Support Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.

ozziepythons

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2009
Messages
888
Reaction score
3
Location
SA
I bought a small group of bearded dragons several weeks ago, and one of them was sickly (slept all the time, hated to be picked up, looked miserable but would eat) so I gave it to a wildlife carer. Now I have issues with one of the strong doers, he sits with his eyes closed 90% of the time, seems lethargic, but will eat and shows some activity. However his definetly crook. Is there some common illness that beardies suffer from (other than MBD) I don't know about?
Cage: Hot spot, full uv lighting (10.0, new), themal gradient.
Food: calcium dusted crickets, kangaroo mince, lettuce, carrots, bok-choy.
So I know how to keep them in optimal conditions and rarely ever have any health problems with my pythons or goannas (if I ever have?) so could it be something they came with from the previous owner?
I will go to my reptile specialist vet if need be, but want to know if beardies suffer from common illnesses other keepers know about? I can't see how it could be MBD with all the calcium (but not too much) I provide.
 
hmmmm

perhaps somthing genetic?

i found these most common illnesses onthe net:

Mites -

Although mostly uncommon in a private herp collection, mites are another possible complication. They will most likely be noticed first around the eyes or the corners of the mouth as little round, black/brown creepy creatures. They can be treated by many commercial products available at a local pet shop or by a veterinary strength solution available from your veterinarian.
Be sure to follow the directions on the product. Treatment of mites usually takes close to a month of continuous care... as eggs can hatch daily and must be 'taken care of' ASAP... these little bugs have an extraordinary reproductive rate. If you have more than the 1 infested reptile, take extra precautions not to transfer the mites from one to another.

Terminal Ingestion -

Unfortunately, young dragons will swallow larger food items than are appropriate for their size. They can die from the large food item lodging within their digestive tract. If this were to occur they will extend their hind limbs straight back as though paralyzed or in excruciating pain. You can raise your basking temperature or soak the dragon in some warm water to possibly induce a bowel movement - but success is a long shot. (Note that lounging/basking dragons often extend their hind limbs. Do not confuse this posture with the indigestion-induced paralysis, in which the legs remain extended and are unable to move. If your dragon can walk, it is just being a lounge lizard.)

Thermal Burns -

These are caused by direct contact with a heat source and scald the skin - most likely resulting in blisters. The blisters often break open and create the opportunity for secondary bacterial infections, which not only complicate treatment, but also could possibly be fatal (depending on the severity). Dragons WILL walk through their feces - so an impeccable cage is necessary during treatment. While daily treatment can be taken care of at home - your veterinarian should perform initial diagnosis and follow-ups.

Calcium Deficiency -

Without adequate calcium and vitamin D3 in your Dragon's diet, aside from a slow growth rate, you will more than likely encounter Metabolic Bone Disease. The first symptom usually noticed is uncontrolled twitching of the dragon’s toes or legs. This can be a fatal disease if not treated promptly. If this problem occurs, we suggest raising the amount of calcium in the Dragons diet immediately and taking it outside in direct sunlight to bask for a period of time each day until the twitching stops. If there is no change in a few days, consider veterinary care as an option.

Vitamin A Toxicity -

This is a common problem that occurs when dragons are over supplemented. Many multi-vitamins contain levels of VitA and should be offered sparingly. Toxicity is characterized by a swelling of the throat and eyes, and proceeding to a bloating of the body and lethargy.

Respiratory Infections -

The Bearded Dragon is very resistant to respiratory infections. BUT... prolonged exposure to low temperatures, improper humidity and poor cage conditions could result in respiratory complications. Treatment for this problem... usually antibiotics and to raise the ambient temperature of your cage a bit. (The best thing is to avoid low cage temperatures and eliminate the problem before it arises.) The most obvious symptoms are gaping, forced exhalation of air, puffing of the throat, a puffed up appearance of the body and lack of appetite. In some cases, the mucus may accumulate in the mouth and/or emerge from the nostrils. If these symptoms are present and persistent the illness is usually well progressed - a veterinarian visit is in order immediately for treatment.

Internal Parasites -

Symptoms of internal parasites include weight loss, worms in the stools, runny stools, gaping and listlessness. If you observe a combination of these symptoms, you should take your bearded dragon to a veterinarian to have a stool sample examined to determine if there are any parasites present and if so, what kind they are. Follow their recommendation for treatment.
 
Kangaroo mince might be of concern.
Red meat & herps generally don't mix.
Renal failure is my first thought, but without a vet visit or more info, it's just a thought.
 
sick beardie

There were recent posts on this forum about dragons and lizards having issues with certain brands of lights, where they basically kept their eyes closed and become unwell. Might be worth having a look see. Hope they are OK
 
Marigold just said it lol
Just a suggestion - try changing the uv light to an 8.0 . If that can't be done straight away, get him out in the sun, with provision for shade, plus water, for full days until u can - a small birdcage will do the trick.
 
Thanks guys, your info provides some food for thought. I'll check out the other thread regarding problems with uv lighting, as indeed they seem uncomfortable to keep their eyes open. I'll take them to the vet to check for worms also, and hit whatever the problem on the head.
 
As it turns out, a well trusted brand of compact uv light 10.0 I was using, has a reputation for malfunctioning and belting out too much uv, causing cataracts and even skin cancers! The symptoms my top quality beardies were exhibiting are the same as those that suffer from the effects of, lets call it uv 'toxcicity'. This is an artificial uv light problem caused by dodgy uv light manufacturers overseas. After learning all this from some experts (and leads from some more knowlegable APS users) I changed down to a 5.0 and the dragons are lively, running around and even open their eyes now. I even changed over the uv tube in the ackie cage as that was also recommended, just in case. Even after all this, I'll still take them out for sunshine as nothing beats it for quality.
 
Great to hear you're on top of it!! Thanks for the update:) & enjoy your Healthy little ones now!
 
ozzie what is the uv that is so dangerous please? I have a dragon who has been a bit funny of late also.
Also ditch the carrot as it contains oxilates and can/will inhibit the absorbtion of the calcium.
 
As far as I'm aware, there is only one brand of 'compact uv 10.0' lighting. Apparently some of the lights produced are ok, thats why they are marketed and some ppl have no problems, but those that are way off the standard cause the same problem I had. When the light source is removed, the problem goes away. Classic cause and effect scenario.
I'd be aware of electrical reptile products made en masse cheaply overseas and sold here, as from experience I have learnt the companies seem to pump out inferior products or lack quality control, that rips off the consumer. Like 3 metre heat cords that 1 1/2 metres of it actually heats, and these 10.0 globes that plenty of keepers report the same problem with.
 
wow, i knew the compacts were bad, but i didnt think the dragons would display such intense symptoms that would clear so quickly!!!

glad u (or marigold) worked it out! ;)
 
wow, i knew the compacts were bad, but i didnt think the dragons would display such intense symptoms that would clear so quickly!!!

glad u (or marigold) worked it out! ;)

Neither did I, but the symptoms were over with once the bulb was out, and they seem well adjusted again. A reptile specialist shop here in Adelaide filled me in with the info over the product in question. I described the dragon's problems (after assuring I knew what I was doing) and he asked straight away if I was using a compact 10.0 uv!
Thanks again to those of you that initially tipped me off :D
 
my hatchlings doing the same thing
i have him on a 10.0 4ft uvb tube
is that the same as a compact or am i just retarded?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top