What should I feed my Turtle??

Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum

Help Support Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Iris Brickwood

New Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
5
Reaction score
2
Location
Queen
I have had a Murray River Short Neck turtle since November and he is now around 6 or 7 months old.

I need help on what to feed him. I have pellets and frozen meat blocks but I think I need to change up his diet as the more I read, the more it says to do so.

What types of fruit can I feed him??
What types of plants should be in his tank??
What kinds of insects or sea food should he eat??

I am feeding him everyday since he is still young and feeding him around the size of his head.
When do I start feeding him every few days??
Am I feeding him the right amount??

It would be really appreciated if you cound please respond with advice.
Thank you
 
Hi, Welcome :)While it is young feed it mostly animals. Fish, insects, spiders, shrimp, crayfish and other good stuff like that. Soon enough it will eat any water plants it can find.
 
Ours get pilchard and de headed prawns (to remove the spike of hell) with occasional Vegeblocks
 
Please discard any commercial frozen turtle blocks/dinners containing fruits and or vegetables intended for human consumption such as peas, carrots, corn, spinach, lettuce, bok-choy, zucchini, etc and any that contain red meats - roo meat, silverside, lean beef heart, liver, etc... All of these are extremely detrimental to a turtle's health. Too much protein in a turtle's diet will cause shell deformities such as scalloping and tenting and the above mentioned vegetables will prevent the uptake of calcium.

There's many pellets available for turtles however only a couple have the correct calcium to phosphorous ratio of 2:1 These are the Hikari Cichlid Gold Pellets and the Exo-Terra Aquatic Turtle Pellets. These are OK to offer SPARINGLY, no more than once/week as they promote accelerated growth.
20160814_115014-1.jpg


You can also offer you turtle those spirulina algae wafers/discs that are sold for sucking catfish.

The best insects you can offer are silkworms and wood roaches.
20150927_102037.jpg

Woodies.jpg


As with all short-necked turtle species in the Emydura complex, Murray River turtles are predominantly vegetarian with up to 75% of their diet consisting of aquatic plants, aquatic weeds and filamentous algae. This is why they have a sharp parrot-like beak... they're grazers. They are also opportunistic and will readily consume terrestrial and aquatic insects and their larva, small fish, earthworms, small shrimps and yabbies.

Recommended aquatic plants for young turtles are native duckweed - Lemna disperma, Duckweed is extremely high in calcium which is essential for maintaining shell and bone integrity.
20141212_162339-1-1.jpg

Ferny and or Pacific Azolla, Elodea and thin Vallisneria are alo preferred favourites of freshwater turtles.
Native Azolla in Macleay tank.jpg


Turtles should only be fed once/day an amount the size of their head, skipping 1-2 days a week. Have their aquarium planted heavily at all times.
1388438339465.jpg

1388438413503.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thank you so much Cris, BI69aze and Aussiepride83. I will go to the pet shop as soon as I can to get plants, insects, shrimp, prawns and earthworms.

Still wondering what types of fruit are ok or are all fruits bad??

Thanks again
 
Thank you so much Cris, BI69aze and Aussiepride83. I will go to the pet shop as soon as I can to get plants, insects, shrimp, prawns and earthworms.

Still wondering what types of fruit are ok or are all fruits bad??

Thanks again
i think fruit is more for tortoises but im not 100% sure
 
No fruit or vegetables whatsoever are suitable for turtles. Turtles can only eat under water, on land they cannot physically eat anything so they definitely don't wander overland in search of people's back yard vege patches for a feed. Hehe.
 
Last edited:
No fruit or vegetables whatsoever are suitable for turtles.
Thank you very much for confirming that!

I got him small yabies for him to eat when he feels like it. Is that ok??

I also got him meal worms how many should I give him and how often?

Thanks
 
Thank you very much for confirming that!

I got him small yabies for him to eat when he feels like it. Is that ok??

I also got him meal worms how many should I give him and how often?

Thanks
Not sure about the type of turtle you have but the ones at work LOVE bloodworm blocks, which we give to some babies and they all swarm and nomnomnom
 
Thank you very much for confirming that!

I got him small yabies for him to eat when he feels like it. Is that ok??

I also got him meal worms how many should I give him and how often?

Thanks
Mealworms and or superworms shouldn't be fed to turtles. Their chitinous exoskeleton causes gut impaction and their calcium to phosphorous ratio is not suitable. They are also far too high in complex proteins for turtles. Instead, offer your turtle earthworms and silkworms which are very high in calcium.
worms-1.jpg

20161007_154149.jpg

[doublepost=1524416768,1524416441][/doublepost]
Not sure about the type of turtle you have but the ones at work LOVE bloodworm blocks, which we give to some babies and they all swarm and nomnomnom
Whilst is may appear that your turtles "love bloodworms" this is just a misinterpretation on your part of what's essentially an opportunistic feeder... opportunistically feeding. If you offered your turtle a hungry Jack's whopper and fries, it would "love that" too. Bloodworms offer no nutritional benefit to a turtle at all, bloodworms are however used to get week old hatchlings into feeding mode. Bloodworms shouldn't be offered to any turtle larger than a 50c coin. Blackworms can also be used for tiny hatchies but again, once they're readily feeding, there's little to be gained by continuing to offer them. Chopped earthworms and baby silkworms are much more nutritional.

Here's some week old expansa already hammering down whole pre-stunned fish.
20150220_171906.jpg

These guys were started on bloodworms but as soon as they're feeding, the bloodworms are discontinued immediately. :)
[doublepost=1524421374][/doublepost]Sorry I forgot to mention to remove the front claws from yabbies by simply twisting them off (yabbies don't feel pain from this so don't worry) their claws, like all their regenerable limbs are designed to be dropped as a self preserving survival strategy. Removing the claws will prevent the crays from possibly injuring your turtle and even grasping your turtle and holding it until it drowns. Unfortunately I have seen this happen to a few people with hatchling turtles.
20160812_150846-1.jpg
20160812_150440.jpg
 
Mealworms and or superworms shouldn't be fed to turtles. Their chitinous exoskeleton causes gut impaction and their calcium to phosphorous ratio is not suitable. They are also far too high in complex proteins for turtles. Instead, offer your turtle earthworms and silkworms which are very high in calcium.
View attachment 323870
View attachment 323871
[doublepost=1524416768,1524416441][/doublepost]
Whilst is may appear that your turtles "love bloodworms" this is just a misinterpretation on your part of what's essentially an opportunistic feeder... opportunistically feeding. If you offered your turtle a hungry Jack's whopper and fries, it would "love that" too. Bloodworms offer no nutritional benefit to a turtle at all, bloodworms are however used to get week old hatchlings into feeding mode. Bloodworms shouldn't be offered to any turtle larger than a 50c coin. Blackworms can also be used for tiny hatchies but again, once they're readily feeding, there's little to be gained by continuing to offer them. Chopped earthworms and baby silkworms are much more nutritional.

Here's some week old expansa already hammering down whole pre-stunned fish.
View attachment 323867
These guys were started on bloodworms but as soon as they're feeding, the bloodworms are discontinued immediately. :)
[doublepost=1524421374][/doublepost]Sorry I forgot to mention to remove the front claws from yabbies by simply twisting them off (yabbies don't feel pain from this so don't worry) their claws, like all their regenerable limbs are designed to be dropped as a self preserving survival strategy. Removing the claws will prevent the crays from possibly injuring your turtle and even grasping your turtle and holding it until it drowns. Unfortunately I have seen this happen to a few people with hatchling turtles.
View attachment 323868 View attachment 323869
We don’t feed them as a main food, more just a snack to get everyone moving
 
Mealworms and or superworms shouldn't be fed to turtles. Their chitinous exoskeleton causes gut impaction and their calcium to phosphorous ratio is not suitable. They are also far too high in complex proteins for turtles. Instead, offer your turtle earthworms and silkworms which are very high in calcium.
View attachment 323870
View attachment 323871
[doublepost=1524416768,1524416441][/doublepost]
Whilst is may appear that your turtles "love bloodworms" this is just a misinterpretation on your part of what's essentially an opportunistic feeder... opportunistically feeding. If you offered your turtle a hungry Jack's whopper and fries, it would "love that" too. Bloodworms offer no nutritional benefit to a turtle at all, bloodworms are however used to get week old hatchlings into feeding mode. Bloodworms shouldn't be offered to any turtle larger than a 50c coin. Blackworms can also be used for tiny hatchies but again, once they're readily feeding, there's little to be gained by continuing to offer them. Chopped earthworms and baby silkworms are much more nutritional.

Here's some week old expansa already hammering down whole pre-stunned fish.
View attachment 323867
These guys were started on bloodworms but as soon as they're feeding, the bloodworms are discontinued immediately. :)
[doublepost=1524421374][/doublepost]Sorry I forgot to mention to remove the front claws from yabbies by simply twisting them off (yabbies don't feel pain from this so don't worry) their claws, like all their regenerable limbs are designed to be dropped as a self preserving survival strategy. Removing the claws will prevent the crays from possibly injuring your turtle and even grasping your turtle and holding it until it drowns. Unfortunately I have seen this happen to a few people with hatchling turtles.
View attachment 323868 View attachment 323869
Thank you so much for all this advice!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top