cools2036
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Hi all,
just thought i would share with you my second custom build (enclosure).
would love to get your thoughts and feedback along the way...
ok so ive pretty much completed the 'build" part of the enclosure, the total measurements are 1200 wide x 1600 high and 600 deep... i built a 2 door cabinet at the botto which is 800 high so total height is 2200 ( its a monster)
it has one side access door, the front is one peice 8mm thick laminated glass.
it was a stainless framed window i picked up from a demolition sale for $10 looks brand new.
i used a pre-slotted 12mm x 80mm cladding timber boards as the main walls for the enclosure and cabinet.
i basically built a timber frame to the desired dimensions and cut the cladding to suit around the outside.
i then cleaned all the edges by purchasing some fancy routered skirting to go around the top and bottom edges of both the cabinet and the enclosure.
I capped the cabinet and based it with 12mm marine ply, and based the enclosure with this aswell.
I used 3mm ply as the backing, I left the top open for ventilation though i think i will add vents of some sort lower in the encloser.
I cut and staples snake wire to enclose the top and i plan on installing a peice of marine ply about 100-150mm wide to mount 2 x UVB 50w downlights and 1 x infra red or night purple 40w lamp and holder to ( pictures will come as im completing it)
the glass window was dropped into pre made channels that i had put in place before skirting it. i then sealed all edges with silicon.
the plan in my head that i have is the bottom left side of the enclosure will have a running water fall into a pond ( small about 1'x1.5') which the water level will come onto the glass so you can see under the water (if that makes sense) sort of like a pool with glass walls? im going to custom make the background ( all 3 side i think) as i did in my last build but a bit different in my technique this time. then finally riddle it with plants for a nice tropical fee.
Ive done a pre installation water seal with a none toxic pond sealer to the entire inside of the enclosure ( 3 coats) this will prevent the timber obsorbing moisture and cause mould, deformation expansion etc..
thats about where im at atm
my next plan is to pre cut all the Styro, im going to be concealling all cables/electrical into grooves i will pre cut in the back of the 50mm styro sheets i picked up from the local tip for $0..
im thinking half of it will have a coil of heating cable ( opposite to water fall side) which i will cable tie in the ( never ending S pattern) with Xmas tree clips and then pour about 20mm of self leveling cement in that section. this is a method i ude many times in my job on "under Floor Heating" ( im an electrician) it gives a perfect and even distribution of heat and whats best of all it retains it. like a stone or rocks would in the sun.
if your using some of my techniques please make sure you coat every thing at every stage with water proofing 9 water based is best) the last thing you want is te have a moisture leak after completing the job and have to dismantle everything to re-seal it!
im thinking after ive roughed the foam into the desired shapes and what not im going to cover everything in a jet black grout mix, this will save time when painting later on (as everything will already be sealed and black which meant you only need to highlight it)
the grout will also give it a realistic texture though i most likely will add a desert sand mix with the waterprrofing on final coat after iver painted to give it that extra touch. (please make sure your waterproofing is a NON-TOXIC type)
thats about it for now i think..
ill be doing more tomorrow and will have some photos for you guys
thanks heaps for all the ideas you guys post on here, makes life so much easier when you can see things right infront of you.
Matt
Ok so ive got stuck into it today and heres what i have
In this pic you can pretty much see all the enclosure bar part of the cabinet,
its been stained throughout and water proofed on the inside only, 5 coats on the base floor and 2 on the inner walls.
you can see the front glass panel i picked up for $10..
Iv'e roughed in the the back 50mm foam panels, i had to cut them in half just to fit it inside!
Iv'e also cut/sealed and grouted the waterfall/pond section ( ill go into more detail further on)
in this pic you can see the door/access, i simply cleanly cut a whole in the shape, size etc that i wanted it to be then used that as the door.
after staining i noticed there was a 3-5mm gap around the door, prob not big enough for anything to squeeze in or out of but it annoyed me non the less, it also swung both ways you'll see my solution in the next pic...
i framed the door in a routed skirting which made the door sit flush, stopped it bowing and also sealed up those gaps i can sleep easy now...
This is the open top after ive stapled the snake mesh to it, i find staples are the best. ive seen ppl use pin nails and just bend them to hold it down but they rust and its just dodgy.
galvanised staples are cheap as hold better and are pretty much flush so nothing your rep mate cant get snagged and injured on. though it is fixed on the outside.
Ok so on the inside you see that i have the first half of the backing in place and notice theres a hose sticking out, this is the outlet end of the waterfall feature, at the bottom is an inlet end ( will go into more detail further along)
I fixed the hose inplace behind the foam peice by cutting a V-Channel out and holding it in place with a bead of silicone
In the below pic you can see how ive sectioned off the pond area and also the inlet pipe for the pump (will cut to length at the end)
Its been grouted and sealed, still needs more detailed cuts and adds to give it the final texture and shape but you get the picture.
after all grouting is complete i will clean all the edges up etc, ages away tho.
so that day one of the internals will get another session done tomorrow hopefully..
cheers
matt
just thought i would share with you my second custom build (enclosure).
would love to get your thoughts and feedback along the way...
ok so ive pretty much completed the 'build" part of the enclosure, the total measurements are 1200 wide x 1600 high and 600 deep... i built a 2 door cabinet at the botto which is 800 high so total height is 2200 ( its a monster)
it has one side access door, the front is one peice 8mm thick laminated glass.
it was a stainless framed window i picked up from a demolition sale for $10 looks brand new.
i used a pre-slotted 12mm x 80mm cladding timber boards as the main walls for the enclosure and cabinet.
i basically built a timber frame to the desired dimensions and cut the cladding to suit around the outside.
i then cleaned all the edges by purchasing some fancy routered skirting to go around the top and bottom edges of both the cabinet and the enclosure.
I capped the cabinet and based it with 12mm marine ply, and based the enclosure with this aswell.
I used 3mm ply as the backing, I left the top open for ventilation though i think i will add vents of some sort lower in the encloser.
I cut and staples snake wire to enclose the top and i plan on installing a peice of marine ply about 100-150mm wide to mount 2 x UVB 50w downlights and 1 x infra red or night purple 40w lamp and holder to ( pictures will come as im completing it)
the glass window was dropped into pre made channels that i had put in place before skirting it. i then sealed all edges with silicon.
the plan in my head that i have is the bottom left side of the enclosure will have a running water fall into a pond ( small about 1'x1.5') which the water level will come onto the glass so you can see under the water (if that makes sense) sort of like a pool with glass walls? im going to custom make the background ( all 3 side i think) as i did in my last build but a bit different in my technique this time. then finally riddle it with plants for a nice tropical fee.
Ive done a pre installation water seal with a none toxic pond sealer to the entire inside of the enclosure ( 3 coats) this will prevent the timber obsorbing moisture and cause mould, deformation expansion etc..
thats about where im at atm
my next plan is to pre cut all the Styro, im going to be concealling all cables/electrical into grooves i will pre cut in the back of the 50mm styro sheets i picked up from the local tip for $0..
im thinking half of it will have a coil of heating cable ( opposite to water fall side) which i will cable tie in the ( never ending S pattern) with Xmas tree clips and then pour about 20mm of self leveling cement in that section. this is a method i ude many times in my job on "under Floor Heating" ( im an electrician) it gives a perfect and even distribution of heat and whats best of all it retains it. like a stone or rocks would in the sun.
if your using some of my techniques please make sure you coat every thing at every stage with water proofing 9 water based is best) the last thing you want is te have a moisture leak after completing the job and have to dismantle everything to re-seal it!
im thinking after ive roughed the foam into the desired shapes and what not im going to cover everything in a jet black grout mix, this will save time when painting later on (as everything will already be sealed and black which meant you only need to highlight it)
the grout will also give it a realistic texture though i most likely will add a desert sand mix with the waterprrofing on final coat after iver painted to give it that extra touch. (please make sure your waterproofing is a NON-TOXIC type)
thats about it for now i think..
ill be doing more tomorrow and will have some photos for you guys
thanks heaps for all the ideas you guys post on here, makes life so much easier when you can see things right infront of you.
Matt
Ok so ive got stuck into it today and heres what i have
In this pic you can pretty much see all the enclosure bar part of the cabinet,
its been stained throughout and water proofed on the inside only, 5 coats on the base floor and 2 on the inner walls.
you can see the front glass panel i picked up for $10..
Iv'e roughed in the the back 50mm foam panels, i had to cut them in half just to fit it inside!
Iv'e also cut/sealed and grouted the waterfall/pond section ( ill go into more detail further on)
in this pic you can see the door/access, i simply cleanly cut a whole in the shape, size etc that i wanted it to be then used that as the door.
after staining i noticed there was a 3-5mm gap around the door, prob not big enough for anything to squeeze in or out of but it annoyed me non the less, it also swung both ways you'll see my solution in the next pic...
i framed the door in a routed skirting which made the door sit flush, stopped it bowing and also sealed up those gaps i can sleep easy now...
This is the open top after ive stapled the snake mesh to it, i find staples are the best. ive seen ppl use pin nails and just bend them to hold it down but they rust and its just dodgy.
galvanised staples are cheap as hold better and are pretty much flush so nothing your rep mate cant get snagged and injured on. though it is fixed on the outside.
Ok so on the inside you see that i have the first half of the backing in place and notice theres a hose sticking out, this is the outlet end of the waterfall feature, at the bottom is an inlet end ( will go into more detail further along)
I fixed the hose inplace behind the foam peice by cutting a V-Channel out and holding it in place with a bead of silicone
In the below pic you can see how ive sectioned off the pond area and also the inlet pipe for the pump (will cut to length at the end)
Its been grouted and sealed, still needs more detailed cuts and adds to give it the final texture and shape but you get the picture.
after all grouting is complete i will clean all the edges up etc, ages away tho.
so that day one of the internals will get another session done tomorrow hopefully..
cheers
matt
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