Thanks everyone for your replies, the only problem I have atm is that he won't eat properly? He's eaten two crickets, a worm and he had a lick of some tomato earlier. I've had him at least four days now.
Hey Dragonfoot!
Firstly, no tomato - way too acidic for their tummies, ESPECIALLY in a young dragon... Stress will "stop" them eating... Stress in the form of handling at a too early stage (give him a week-ten days to settle), incorrect heating/lighting etc...
Substrate: At the moment I'm using fake grass I got from bunnings because I was worried about impaction. Sort of like outdoor fake landscaping grass. It's not long enough for the crix to hide in the grass, they just seem to go right underneath it.
That's fine, but make sure you keep a dish of salad in his enclosure overnight - to feed the rogue crickets!
Lighting: I have two globes on during the day, and at night I have none, this where the heat mat comes in. I have a 26W Exo-terra 10.0 desert coil bulb (I'll replace this as soon as I can after reading that coils can cause eye problems? Someone can correct me?) and the other is the Exo-terra intense basking bulb which is 100W.
Okay, I'm going to try to be as gentle as possible... PLEASE get rid of the spiral UV - reports have indicated these UV "globes" are dangerous to your dragons' eyes. Within a few days, especially if the animal is quite close to it, you will find the animal will keep his eyes closed. These "globes" have also been associated with "welders flash" in humans. Try using a NEC T10 "tube" type arrangement... As for your heat light, just a normal "household" spot globe will be ample - Philips "SpotOne" R80, for example. Pretty sure you can still get these at "some" supermarkets, if not, Bunnings will have them...
Heating: during the night I've been using an 'under the tank heat mat' by reptile one, which is 20W. I've also been using a heat rock that ive been checking daily for cracks incase of electrocution. Unless Ajax has these he doesn't have any source of heat during the night and I'm worried that hell be too cold during the night - he sleeps close to the rock but hardly ever on it.
Totally unnecessary to use supplemental heating UNLESS the ambient temperature in your house gets to below 16C... Heat rocks have also been known to cause issues with overheating (as previously mentioned) - Bearded Dragons don't have temperature sensors in their bellies, they have what is called a Pineal Gland (Third-Eye) on the top of their heads - this is how they 'measure' the temperature, know when to bask, when to cool etc...
Anything else: breeder had the clutch on dusted woodies but my local reptile supplier only sells ones that would be much too big, he'd probably choke.
General rule for prey items with Bearded Dragons "No bigger than the distance between the dragon's eyes"... Also, no mealworms at a young age... Dusted crickets, woodies (appropriately sized), silkworms (expensive, but fantastic nutritional quality)...
I took him outside today on our drive way for 10-15mins and he seems pretty alert out there, but when I have him out inside he sits on my hand and closes his eyes. Yesterday he did a bit of exploration of my couch, my arms and my shoulder.
Ive been misting him two to three times a day, but he looks like he's never done it before. He closes his eyes and extends his front legs as if enjoying it, but then he puts his head back down and makes slow licks as if he has an idea of what he's supposed to do, but it seems really difficult for him.
Totally normal for a dragon to drink this way, don't stress!
Im sorry about the essay, I just hope I've given enough information for someone to get an idea of what's going on. Thank you again for your replies and any future advice.