the jungle guy
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ok ive seen so many threads about this lately and over answering them all so thought i would start a thread with some basic info for these people. that probably wont search for it anyways but here goes
use a descent UV source like a exoterra UVB 10.0 i prefer compact spirals as there easier to adjust the height in a terrarium that has a bit of height,keep the bulb within 12 inch anything past this it will emit UV rays, also just because it lights up does not mean it is emitting UV replace bulbs every 12 months you may get more out of a bulb if you have a UV meter
basking spot keep around 40 degree no lower need it nice and warm for them to bask
keep the warmer side around 32 cooler side around 28 so there is a thermo-gradient with in the setup they can move around to adjust there body temps,
at night time they do not need heat or light, keep it dark for them
or you like for a night viewing you can use the purple moonlight or a infra red bulb
no matter what anyone says ALWAYS use a thermostat heat sources will just continue to heat and heat not such a great thing in summer
with bulb wattage everyone's need is different a 60 watt may work for me some else needs a 75wat and so and so simply because of the varying factors what its made from, ventilation ambient temps etc etc the best bet is to buy a infra red temp gun,
go buy a few phillips spotlight or tight beam bulb 60, 75, 100 see what works the best for you this is a cheap way of find what size and remember this may need to be adjusted with season pending you ambient temps and location
always use a overhead heat source heat mats and heat rocks are no go,especially un thermostated, as they cant judge heat through there bellies so well
and can easily get burns
try and keep the humidity as low as possible this may mean a smaller or shallower water bowl on the cool side
always use a ceramic fitting imo especially with ceramic heat emitters
ive found using the ES ceramic light fitting lead is great so you can adjust the height of it to get the desired basking temp and to get you UVB within range, if you choose to use a coil
another alternative to use is NECt10 black light have a high UVB/A out put with a slower decaying rate of a normal tube and is of a fractional price
ventilation is important as with any reptile offer at top and bottom to help induce a natural flow caused by the hot air rising and escaping and cooler air pulled in from the bottom
there diet is extremely important especially youngens, that is the most crucial time as there growing rapid in the first 12 months offer every 2-3 days a calcium and multi vitamin powder thats phospurus free, you can either add in greens or inverts
woodies have a higher nutritional value then crix but they can escape easily
always offer fresh food where possible as frozen veges loose there b12 when thawed, there is a great site i know of for bearded dragon nutriton im not sure if this can be link if mods can let me know i would adjust this
younger dragons are not soo keen on greens but they will eventually take them always keep on offer with persistence even try and work a trust up with your dragon to hand feed trick with a small piece of greens instead of a crix or woody dont worry they will eat it in no time
never offer food objects bigger then the gap between there eyes,
water some will drink from a bowl some will not to keep hydration up i offer warm bath to soak in a few times a week more so in summer not hot or cold which can shock them
as with any other reptile do not handle for a few weeks let them settle in, they are stressed, new home, new owners, new temps, new bed times, new food varieties put yourself in there shoes
with any reptile start handling in small amounts and slowly increasing time but after all they are a reptile not a cat or dog,
for 2 full grown adult pair need a 4x2x2 enclosure minimum, give them plenty of room,
substrates try and avoid especially when young they are curious and will taste everything... stick with basic like paper towel newspaper, as they are older you can use substrates i would stick with pellets or children's play sand the red reptile sand may look pretty and natural but will cause impaction very fast as beardies are clumsy eaters, with a sand substrate i would feed my dragons outside of the enclosure to avoid this aswell
make sure you have a few hides on offer to help them feel secure,
ohwell this covers the basics for more in depth get the book i mentioned below and hopefully many people will read this instead of asking the same basics over and over
Cheers
for more info get the book called the bearded dragon manual
use a descent UV source like a exoterra UVB 10.0 i prefer compact spirals as there easier to adjust the height in a terrarium that has a bit of height,keep the bulb within 12 inch anything past this it will emit UV rays, also just because it lights up does not mean it is emitting UV replace bulbs every 12 months you may get more out of a bulb if you have a UV meter
basking spot keep around 40 degree no lower need it nice and warm for them to bask
keep the warmer side around 32 cooler side around 28 so there is a thermo-gradient with in the setup they can move around to adjust there body temps,
at night time they do not need heat or light, keep it dark for them
or you like for a night viewing you can use the purple moonlight or a infra red bulb
no matter what anyone says ALWAYS use a thermostat heat sources will just continue to heat and heat not such a great thing in summer
with bulb wattage everyone's need is different a 60 watt may work for me some else needs a 75wat and so and so simply because of the varying factors what its made from, ventilation ambient temps etc etc the best bet is to buy a infra red temp gun,
go buy a few phillips spotlight or tight beam bulb 60, 75, 100 see what works the best for you this is a cheap way of find what size and remember this may need to be adjusted with season pending you ambient temps and location
always use a overhead heat source heat mats and heat rocks are no go,especially un thermostated, as they cant judge heat through there bellies so well
and can easily get burns
try and keep the humidity as low as possible this may mean a smaller or shallower water bowl on the cool side
always use a ceramic fitting imo especially with ceramic heat emitters
ive found using the ES ceramic light fitting lead is great so you can adjust the height of it to get the desired basking temp and to get you UVB within range, if you choose to use a coil
another alternative to use is NECt10 black light have a high UVB/A out put with a slower decaying rate of a normal tube and is of a fractional price
ventilation is important as with any reptile offer at top and bottom to help induce a natural flow caused by the hot air rising and escaping and cooler air pulled in from the bottom
there diet is extremely important especially youngens, that is the most crucial time as there growing rapid in the first 12 months offer every 2-3 days a calcium and multi vitamin powder thats phospurus free, you can either add in greens or inverts
woodies have a higher nutritional value then crix but they can escape easily
always offer fresh food where possible as frozen veges loose there b12 when thawed, there is a great site i know of for bearded dragon nutriton im not sure if this can be link if mods can let me know i would adjust this
younger dragons are not soo keen on greens but they will eventually take them always keep on offer with persistence even try and work a trust up with your dragon to hand feed trick with a small piece of greens instead of a crix or woody dont worry they will eat it in no time
never offer food objects bigger then the gap between there eyes,
water some will drink from a bowl some will not to keep hydration up i offer warm bath to soak in a few times a week more so in summer not hot or cold which can shock them
as with any other reptile do not handle for a few weeks let them settle in, they are stressed, new home, new owners, new temps, new bed times, new food varieties put yourself in there shoes
with any reptile start handling in small amounts and slowly increasing time but after all they are a reptile not a cat or dog,
for 2 full grown adult pair need a 4x2x2 enclosure minimum, give them plenty of room,
substrates try and avoid especially when young they are curious and will taste everything... stick with basic like paper towel newspaper, as they are older you can use substrates i would stick with pellets or children's play sand the red reptile sand may look pretty and natural but will cause impaction very fast as beardies are clumsy eaters, with a sand substrate i would feed my dragons outside of the enclosure to avoid this aswell
make sure you have a few hides on offer to help them feel secure,
ohwell this covers the basics for more in depth get the book i mentioned below and hopefully many people will read this instead of asking the same basics over and over
Cheers
for more info get the book called the bearded dragon manual
