black headed python eye issue

[hsgrx7]

Hi
i have a black headed python that is probably about 2 now.
since his first shed with me been having problems with the left eye like damaged spectacles and substrate getting in between the eye. has been fine after finishing shedding though.
about a week or 2 before he started shedding got a peice of substate in between the left eye. it started to go gooey and went to the vet and got some antibiotics, that got rid of the gooey bit and shed shortly after, was fine after that till today another peice got in.
ive been using chipsi snake bedding so its quite soft but has anyone had this sort of issue? if it keeps getting in the eye should i change it to something else?. he does dig alot.
since getting him ive noticed i can see the white part of the eye on the left when its looking forward and barely at all on the right.

i've been looking for anything similar to this online and been to the vet several times but found nothing about this.

its that peice yellow mark in the eye

since putting ointment on a few hours ago it doesnt look like much anymore.
is acting normal otherwise quite active. have a uv light and temp is about 35-37 at the moment. 30 at the cool end at all times. humidity is about 40s.
has been shedding every 8-9 weeks.

would this be much to worry about or keep putting the eye ointment on it and wait till he sheds again which should be in a month or 6 weeks the way he has been going.
I got him in mid march this year.

 

[Sdaji]

Your temperatures are much too high, and humidity a bit too low. I'd get rid of the UV light, lower the temperatures to about 32-34 at the hot end and preferably 25 or lower at the cool end (37+ is fine if you have a nice cool end, but if he can't get below 30 degrees at any time day or night it's too hot). It's not normal for them to get substrate stuck like that. As a one off it might be a freak thing but if it has happened more than once either his burrowing is intense (possibly to try to burrow into the ground to escape the extreme heat) or the injury has left a place which collects debris. Chipsi is needlessly expensive (you can get pretty much identical alternatives at a fraction of the cost by the way) but good stuff, and it usually won't be an issue, however, since you are having an issue, whatever the cause, it's probably worth switching to paper for the time being.

The main thing is to give him a cooler cool end, especially over night. It usually won't hurt if the cool end hits 30 for a while during the day, or even if it's that hot all night from time to time when you have a heatwave, but not as a regular thing. If you give your location (city/region to give an idea of the climate) and describe the cage size, dimensions and heat source(s) it may be possible to comment further.

 

[Pauls_Pythons]

Can I ask if you are heating 24/7 or if you have your heating on a timer? If its on a timer what are the heating hours?
I disagree that 37 is too hot but the cool end should be cooler (25 as suggested by Sdaji) so unless you have an option to move or redirect the heat so it doesn't have such an influence over the cool end temps you only option at this stage may be dropping temps. (You also dont mention the size of enclosure which Im going to assume is on the smaller side and hence the inability to provide a cooler temp on the non heated side)

Another option you might like to consider is to partition the enclosure as another means to regulate cool end temps. Its a common thing to do amongst those who keep BHPs and gives them a much better range of temperature but again this is more suitable to larger enclosures 6ft+.

Chipsi is not a substrate I use with BHP's but a good friend of mine has used it for many years without problem so I agree that its unlikely that the substrate is the real problem here.

Do you have hides in the enclosure, if so how many and their location. Does your snake spend most of its time plastered against the wall of the enclosure in the cooler end? Only eye problems I have ever had with BHP's is the occasional retained eye cap which is generally caused by low humidity as already mentioned.

 

[hsgrx7]

It's a 6.5ft long enclosure.
It's set at 31 in the middle so the
Light shuts off it rarely gets to that though.
Got 3 hides one near the globes one in the middle and one at the cool end.
Spends most time in the one closer to the globe.
and 2 bowls of water each end
Few branches near the globes he sits on fairly often. That's why I thought temp was ok.

I didn't have the uv to start with but vet said you need one and temperature was about right. So thought that was fine. Was about 30 to 36 then.

I meant 30 in the middle of the enclosures most of the time thats where the thermostat probe is.
Right now it's 32 hot 29 middle.

 

[Pauls_Pythons]

There is a big difference between 30 & 36. How are you measuring your temps? Are you using a non contact thermometer or relying on something else?
Im not sure what vet would be advocating the need for UV with a BHP but I would be fairly confident it isn't one experienced in reptiles.

It sounds like your heat source central is off to one side of the enclosure which is good but it sounds to me like your thermostat probe is in the wrong place. It should be closer to the heat source, what you want is a hot SPOT at one end of the enclosure of 35-37 not the whole bloody thing being heated.

If moving the thermostat probe doesn't have the desired effect just look at how you can put a partition into tthe enclosure as its plenty big enough and will resolve your temperature issues very quickly.

2 bowls of water at each end? For what purpose? I can understand moving water closer to the heat to raise humidity but 2 is there really a need for 2 water dishes at each end?