CBD Brumating?

Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum

Help Support Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Sun-Que

Not so new Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
Location
Southeast Victoria
So I got a CBD not too long ago, he's only a couple of months old and over the past week he has been climbing underneath a rock and not coming out.
A few times I have picked him up and fed him as normal..

This is my first possible case of Brumating, so do I have food on offer? And is he too young to be brumating anyway?
Heating is on 24/7 (Always has been) and the temps are correct, though the weather outside has been miserable for a long while now.
 
What heat 24/7 are u referring to??
Heat mat?
Do u have any overhead heat lights?
 
ok a CBD needs a light that represents the sun so a globe from woolies will do 60watt is perfect.

second: yes he is to young to brumate and this is mostly done for breeding pairs and at around 12-13mth age bracket because they have enough condition on them to cope.

third: do you have UV lighting??? this is imperative to a CBD as it helps with calcium

fourth: replace one of the IR lights with a ceramic heat emitter that way you can keep the CBD warm during winter but not be disturbed (if in your room)
 
Of course he has a full spectrum UV light :p
It's on a 12h on/off timer, he's not in the room so light isn't so much of an issue..

I'm more curious about whether I should be waking him up and why he would be trying to brumate?
 
The tank ranges between 35 - 25, I tried bumping the temps a little bit to see if it'd make a difference.. (Above the range just listed)
That's ground level though, basking spots are hotter.
That's right isn't it? o_O
 
4'x2'x2'
I'm still waiting to find out if I should wake him or not.. :/
Also much to my displeasure the shop had no listed age when I picked him up.. I got him in March and he's 7" / ~14g If that helps at all.
 
Last edited:
Whether we like it or not, if our CBD goes down they go down ideally it should only be done with breeding pairs age 12mths and up as at hatchling age they don't have enough condition to keep them warm and alive through 3-4mths of temps below 16 in an enclosure.

Do not wake him suddenly as this may cause issues but slowly by handling out of the enclosure
 
He's been fine for the first 2 months in the enclosure, hasn't seemed stressed at all and plenty of hides etc..
I didn't change his temps or do anything to make him want to brumate, he's done it of his own accord (It's damn freezing outside, but I can't help that now can I :p)

But thanks for the help, I'll just slowly wake him up as said
 
Hey, there, if hes already going down for the winter, your best to let him go down for a while before getting him back up again. Just dont let him stay down all winter give him a couple of months and then raise your temps again. I heard of a recent death of a beardy where the vet was involved and trying to force feed a sick beardy that would nt eat, wanted to sleep all the time, was scratching at the corners and under things etcc...Also applying wierd high temps day and night etcc..Yes, some vets dont know much about reptiles! But anyway, this beardy died. Now Im not saying for one minute that there wasnt something else wrong with it, but I knew its history, and it was fine. I wonder if by mucking around with it, (in good intention) actually caused it harm??

As others have said, I'd rather use a normal reflector globe from safeway / bunnings etc, white light to apply a really light enclosure with heat, and obviously UV.

No need for heat at night at all. I never have, and our place gets pretty cold.

If they go into brumation, lower your temps. Reason for this is when they brumate, they dont eat / drink for quite a while. For them to do this and come out in a healthy state, u need them to lower their metabolism. To help them do this, u need cooler temps. If they want to brumate,but they still have the same high temps, their body metabolism may still stay high, thus chewing through their fat stores faster, and thus they may not come out of brumation, or come out in a poor state.

Yes, brumation and cooler periods is needed ussually for mating to occur and successful breeding, but its a natural occurance in the wild because of the temps over winter and occurs even in young lizards

Anyway, just my thoughts

Cheers

And good luck
 
A new development, as soon as I take out the rock he's been burrowing underneath.. He returns to normal (Although sleeping a tad longer during the days)
I've just used up the last of his food, should I leave him brumate for a month or two?
 
A new development, as soon as I take out the rock he's been burrowing underneath.. He returns to normal (Although sleeping a tad longer during the days)
I've just used up the last of his food, should I leave him brumate for a month or two?

you will need to make sure hes fully digested his last food and crapped it out before you let him crash, rotting food in their tummies during brumation can make them sick/kill them.

mine dont brumate, they slow down but still eat a bit every few days and arent hyperactive frdeaks for the winter,..but still awake and pooing daily.
 
A full spectrum UV light won't emit sufficient amounts of UVB..

Even the UVB tubes/globes are quite average, IMO. My dragons slowed down and were quite lethargic (not brumating) but still eating. I put in a Mercury Vapor Bulb and
they improved drastically.
 
I wonder if the mercury vapour globe increased the temps enough in the encl so as to stop or limit brumation?

As chris said, u dont want him going down with a belly full.

They will indicate to you when they want to go down. You wont have much of a say in it. i'd just put in a hide if you dont already, and let him brumate. depending on the temps and the individual lizard, will depend on how deep they go down.

All mine have been down for a month or so now. no food or drink, curled up in their hides. they dont completely sleep. If I prod them theyll slightly open their eyes and look at you (as if to say bugger off, I'm resting). I still put in fresh greens twice a week just in case (although just not much), and I still have the heat on but lower so if they do want to come out and bask they can, its just not a summer intense heat.

IMO, I like to allow them to brumate, as it has the added impact of allowing my roache numbers to build back up.
 
Looking at your last post Sun-one about the hide, I was told (may have read it somewhere- can't quite remember) not to have a hide while they were so young as they would stay in it and possibly not get enough UV.
 
LOL! I thought everyone had jumped ship on the topic..
I had the first page bookmarked and never realised there was a page 2 T_T

Thanks for responding guys.. I left him on full heat for a few days, put the rock back in and turn the temps down, I'll wake him up in a month or so.
Even when I did take out this massive *** rock, he was still sleeping in the corner most of the day so I figured it would just be better to do his thing for a little while.

I have noticed that the 2 heat lamps in there were on pretty much full time just trying to keep the tank heated, would putting in a ceramic emmitter help this at all or something?
Also, someone said you don't have to heat overnight, but the natural temperature is about 0c overnight here in Coastal VIC :p and the house doesn't keep warm well, so this would surely be an issue no?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Back
Top