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young diamonds dont need uv, when it gets older i will get a uv light and get rid of the heat mat. im from newcastle NSW
 
Would love for you to get your story about temps straight - one post you say you have a hot spot and cool spot, then in another you say when the WHOLE enclosure gets to 29 the thermo cuts off?
 
When I got my first snake, she didn't feed for over two months. She was a jungle, and a bloody cranky snake, but I didn't feel that force feeding was necessary. I was worried out of my brain, but eventually I got her to feed by scenting with chick down. Force feeding is stressful and unnatural and shouldn't be the first thing you try, it should be a last resort.
 
hi everyone, i have a 5month old diamond python, and i still have to force feed it! is this common for a snake this age to not be feeding by its self? im a first time diamond owner so i need a few use full tips:) thanks
Was he a feeder when you got him, and on what? he does NOT need forcefeeding, he needs you to be patient! He will take day old Quail, or failing that, finches....
 
Would love for you to get your story about temps straight - one post you say you have a hot spot and cool spot, then in another you say when the WHOLE enclosure gets to 29 the thermo cuts off?
i do have a hot side and a cool side, but my thermometer is in between! i would love for some use full advice from you if you know about diamonds instead of just picking up my wrongs.

nah the guy i brought it off was force feeding it on pinkies, so i thought that i had to just force feed it untill he was older enough to eat by its self.

ok, thank:)
 
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Try feeding it rats in stead of mice.
My snakes ALL like rats better than mice (they told me ;))

Sometimes it's necessary to force feed, but in my opinion this is a last option.
I've experienced that about all snakes will eat if you take your time and try different prey items.
 
Okay, I've read through this thread, and I'm still confused.

Firstly, why (as a newbie) did you buy a non-feeding snake?? The snake should eat by itself at any age. At the moment, it's probably associating the food scent with stress now that you keep force-feeding it when it's not hungry.
Secondly - Jen has asked you to state your temps in this thread, and you keep changing them. Are your temps sitting at 29*C at the warm side, then 25*C on the cool side..? or is the whole enclosure 29*C ..? You do need a cool end, ambiant temp, and a warm end, so it can digest its food.
At its age, it should be feeding on pinkie rats or fuzzies. LEAVE IT TO SETTLE DOWN FOR TWO WEEKS minimum WITHOUT DISTURBING IT!!

From what I've read, and have been told by experienced keepers with Diamonds, They need UV at ALL stages of their lives.

Let him/her settle down for a while, and try offering food, not force feeding, in about 3 weeks time.
Also, do you have photos of the set up so we can understand what you're talking about ..?

Tam.
 
ok will do:) thanks

i brought the snake off a mate, and its my first so i just thought they force feeding was something you had to do with all baby snakes, i did not research much about dimaonds before i got it (regret not researching it now) and yes thats what i mean, its a vertical tank so theres not much room for a cool side and a warm side.

and i was told buy a breeder that i brought my bredli of and he said that young diamons dont need uv but older ones do so i just went with a ceramic and heat pad for the time been untill and uv was needed.

ok will do, thanks tam.
 
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From what I've read, and have been told by experienced keepers with Diamonds, They need UV at ALL stages of their lives.

Tam.

ive read a fair bit regarding uv and diamonds and most that ive read has said its not req'd although providing it will cause no ill effects. There is a member on here that did an article on DPS and im sure he was of the same belief that its not req'd to have a healthy diamond. As said previously DPS seems to be more related to heat than UV. Im sure theres breeders of diamonds that house them inside without UV that will reply
 
some people think UV is required, some people dont. its optional i reken
 
havent you seen diamonds with deformed bone structure, its even written in the book keeping and breeding aus pythons that book is highly recomeded
 
i will buy it and check it out then see what i think after it:)
 
Raddy - spend a bit of money & buy the book joelly is recommending - it's like the reptile keepers' bible :D

also, with the vertical enclosure, I hope that you've put heaps of hides in there if the snake is still little. that's probably another reason it's not eating. the cool side will be down the bottom, that's why most people use lights with those enclosures, as heat rises.

good luck.
 
yeah prob the best book out mate, its got articles in it from all the top breeders the guys that have been around for ever

mybe buy a tub put your diamond in that if he is small let him be for two weeks and try a feed warm pinkie rat if he isnt on rats yet try a mouse
 
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i deffinatley will buy it, can i just pick it up from my local reptile shop?

and i do have plenty of hides he seems fairly happy in there atm tho, i have insulation around the tank cause the heat just wasnt staying in, its fairly warm now:)

also i have a bredli python about the same age as my diamond, would it bother them if i put them in the same enclosure? or is that not a good idea?
 
The whole tank doesn't need to be warm, just needs a single hot point he can get to so like under the heat lamp, the rest of the enclosure you don't want it to retain too much heat, they are cooler snakes by nature!

also a big fat NO NO NO NO to putting two different species in together... There are countless reasons why.. just don't do it..
 
i have a log where he can climb up and get right under the heat lamp. and its not mega not but its not freezing on the bottom of the enclosure.

ok ill have to buy another enclosure then haha
 
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