Enclosure Set Up Questions....

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Bart70

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Hi,

Those who read my introduction in the Introductions section will know that after some time slowly researching and preparing for a snake (most likely to be a carpet species - MHD, Coastal, Bredli etc....), the time has come for me to start setting up my enclosure.

The enclosure I have is a 45x45x45 Exoterra style enclosure. It has 50% of the top gauze/netting covered over with a piece of light ply - I am assuming this has been done by the previous owner to assist with the retention of warmth. This ply has a hole cut in it about the size of a ceramic heat element, and holes around the perimeter indicate the fitting of a 15cm reflector lamp and heat shield previously. This has all been done very professionally and appears secure.

I am leaning towards setting up in a similar manner, but have no idea what wattage of ceramic element I would need for this size enclosure and set up. The current 'hole' for the heat emitter is to one side which will work well with a gradient. So I guess my first question is what wattage ceramic emitter would I need? (am on the NSW mid north coast so winter temps are not extreme) ....and I am assuming they are suitable for use with the metal reflector lamp holders?

I will also need a thermostat and am thinking of getting a dimming thermostat (providing the ceramic emitter is of high enough wattage to for one as I have read some will not work with lower wattage emitters). Are there any recommendations for a thermostat? Does anybody have a Jet thermostat?.

The enclosure came with a flouro light and fitting....although am handy enough to install some strip LED lighting down the track. Do I need a special flouro tube? I am planning to house the snake in an area where there will be some natural lighting (not direct - will be adjacent to a window) so am hoping this may help with UV needs.

Happy to listen to thoughts and opinions....:)

Bart
 
Hi

Mark from Taree here. Just saw your post. Snakes do need UV. I guess there's no substitute for some direct sunshine by taking your snake for a drag every two or three days. But I think UV lights would be the next best thing.
 
Hi

Mark from Taree here. Just saw your post. Snakes do need UV. I guess there's no substitute for some direct sunshine by taking your snake for a drag every two or three days. But I think UV lights would be the next best thing.

I was under the impression UV lights were only really worth worrying about for Diamonds? I have never used a UV for any of mine and I have had no dramas so if your tank will get sunlight at some point during the day, even if only for a little bit then I personally wouldn't worry about it.
 
Snakes don't need UV, even diamonds. Most lizards yes, but snakes no. Besides, UV wont penetrate two pieces of glass anyway (window and enclosure) Metal reflectors are suitable for ceramic heat emitters and I'm in the same area as you and I've never used anything above 100w on a thermostat. A thermostat is a must IMO. Seeing as you guys are in the area you should come down to the herp club tomorrow night, there's a cool guest speaker :)
 
Love all the false advise people get from a single post. Please only give advise if you know what you are talking about.
 
I live in SA and it gets cold down here in winter and I manage to heat a 850x500x500 URS glass enclosure using a 14w heat mat and a simple on/ off thermostat and its home to a 2yo Gammon ranges carpet and he's doing fine. A 100w CHE is massive overkill in that size enclosure IMO. I use a 100w CHE to heat my 4ft dragon enclosure. In that size enclosure you could easily get away with a 5w heat mat or a 15w heat cord. You could also run a small spot globe on a timer for a couple of hrs a day in conjunction with your heat source to encourage basking depending on what snake you get and your own preference. If you use a large heat source and your thermostat fails on it will turn your enclosure into a snake oven very quickly. Hope I have been of help.
 
Thanks everyone,

I have already made plans for UV since posting. Whilst I am not versed enough to have an informed view on UV for snakes, I figured that I needed lighting anyway so it was not a huge impost to ensure that the lighting provided had UV. I have not seen anything that indicates UV can be harmful, so providing it was not going to be an issue as I have need for some form of lighting anyway.

In terms of the heating - I had tossed up between heat mat and CHE for a while ( am not still not 100% decided) but due to the way my tank is likely to be set up, and the way I would like to display my Spotted I am leaning towards a 50w CHE (don't think they come much smaller) on a thermostat. Failing that I may try a low wattage heat matt with a small halogen bask lamp - but am not sure how the thermostatting will go with that combination (...and I am not keen on lights cycling on and off all day anyway). We are in a relatively mild climate here.....winter temps in our house rarely drop below 12 degrees C, and currently it is 26 degrees C inside so not a huge amount of work to do for the heating system.

It will be a while before my Spotty will be calling this enclosure home so I have time to do some experimenting with setups. The prices of heat mats and CHE's is not excessive and having a couple of alternatives around the house will be handy (We are certain this will not be our only snake) so I might try a couple of different setups and pick the one that works best for me.

Skeptic - I may be there tomorrow night with my son if all goes to plan. Have not see Woma's before, and had little exposure to BHP's, and the guest speaker sounds interesting.

Robert.
 
If you use a small wattage basking lamp for a few hours a day, say 3 or 4 it could go on a timer not a thermostat and your heat mat on the thermostat is used for nighttime and additional heating only. Get maybe a r50 40w spot and monitor temps for a day and see how it goes.
 
Hey Robert, seeing as how the click clack you will have for the spotty will only use 1/2 of the heat mat that you will have why don't you put your 450x450 on the other 1/2 and experiment with the temps that way, i can lend you another thermometer if you like, it just seems a waste if you have the stuff anyway why not use it, as you seen with the 1 i just built the electrics were massive overkill and IMO even when your spotty moves into the enclosure you should still have more than enough of the heat mat sticking out to still heat a click clack with your coastal in it (as you seen i will be heating both of my click clacks on the 1 heat mat) i can see no reason with alittle bit of moving things around why you can't achieve a balance between the enclosure and click clack with the thermostat you will already have, the more money you can save on heating etc the more you can spend on reps lolz.......................Ron
 
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