Thank you for your post ST, can I just ask a few ? of you though, please?
We purcahsed two yearling DP approx, 7 months ago. We had previously owned beardies and frogs. So this was our first snake purchase. We presumed that with our inexperience buying yearling's would be better than hatching's.
We contacted a Sydney seller that had advertised on Herptrader and emailed back and forward a lot. We were told that they where eating frozen/thawed hopper mice and live.
We have not had any problems with one, and she now eats frozen/thawed velvet rats.
But the other never ate from day one, we tried everything and after six months took him to a recommended vet. The vet checked everything, no problems, so pretty much said to try live fuzzy mice as force feeding could kill the snake, we then went to a reptile shop and explained our situation and they agreed that we needed to feed live, and stated they have quite a few DP owners that need to feed live. (they also stated in there opinion that a DP is not a beginners snake) . I'm not comfortable with feeding live, and have no idea what I will do in the future when he needs larger food.
I absolutely consider it as our lack of experience that is causing this problem, but I honestly do not know what else to do There is no one else that I can take my snake to or get advice. So very regrettable we are feeding live at the moment, the other option is to try and sell the snake to a experienced herper, or let it die.
Thankyou for your time. I am feeding live out of pure desperation, and hate/scared doing it.
At 1 year of age diamonds should be very established feeders and moving to another collection shouldnt really put them off for too long, especially not the 7 months you've had them. Makes me wonder whether this snake was a problem feeder for it's previous owner, but anyway....
Are you keeping them together or separate? If they're together then this may have something to do with it. It could be a shy snake that's intimidated by others.
Words that i keep fresh in my mind are "Environment influences behaviour". Wise words indeed and they have got me out of many reptile related problems. Much of the way a snake acts depends on it's immediate environment. You really need to get inside your snakes head and work out whats going on. Usually a few simple changes is all thats needed to get a stubborn feeder feeding. Perhaps a smaller enclosure to live in, branches to perch on, kept in darkness etc. I always keeping youngsters in small containers with newspaper or paper towel as a substrate. They seem to enjoy hiding underneath it rather than using hiding boxes. I keep young diamonds with day temps of 28'c and no heating at night (unless just fed on a pretty cold night) Diamonds need cool nights. They tend to become sluggish with heating offered day and night.
I've always found young diamonds to favour defrosted fuzzy/weaner mice over anything else in captivity. They love mice with a strong urine scent. They tend to be turned off by mice that were frozen in sawdust filled tubs. I wash the mice under warm water and dry them on newspaper. To get non-feeders feeding the dead mouse is left in the enclosure overnight. If its still there in the morning i throw it. I keep doing this until one day it is gone. No healthy diamond wants to starve. Once it's happy and feels safe with it's immediate surrounding it will gladly eat. When someone has a snake that wont eat, the problem is almost always the set-up, not the snakes dislike for the prey offered.
If you have to feed live then use young mice that dont have their sharp teeth or stun them if they do. Feeding live should be the last option. Also try scenting with skinks, chicken down, chicken broth, braining the mouse, offer raw chicken etc etc. Dont force-feed.
Also when you feed it a live mouse offer it a dead one as the first kill is being swallowed. You can usually put the head of the dead mouse into the snakes mouth as the first meal disappears. The snake should gladly start consuming the second meal. After doing this a few times they will except the dead mouse without needing a live one first. If you decide to offer it a dead mouse personally(that is, you introduce the food to the snake on forceps while its active) there is one trick that works well for me to encourage them to except. Firstly i show the mouse to the snake and then slowly pull it back. If the snake follows the mouse then i know i'm onto something. I then gently push the mouse against the snakes snout/chin. If the snake doesnt back off then half the battle is over. I push it against the nose for a few seconds then pull the mouse away. I give the snake a moment to think about it, then push the mouse back against the snakes snout. I do this several times and as long as the snake doesnt back away from this then you've got a 95% chance of it feeding. Just dont give up!!. Anyway, after doing this several times, if the meal isnt excepted i crank it up a notch. This time after pushing the mouse against its snout i dont pull away, instead i nudge the snakes sides with the mouse. This can excite the hell out of them and they sometimes swing around to catch the mouse. I keep repeating this method. I push against the snout, then nudge along the snakes body a few more times. Then i'll just nudge along both sides of the body, up and down, side to side, rather quickly then without giving the snake time to think i push the mouse back against the snakes snout and WHAM!!!!:shock: (occasionally they'll slowly grab the mouse). Then i slowly take a few steps back and watch it eat
. Persistance!! This method works well with stubborn feeders and is a great alternative to force-feeding(which makes me shudder).
I agree that diamonds arent a beginners snake, but they are still just as easy to get feeding as other pythons, so i dont think that that's part of the problem.
Good luck!