heating help

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CML88

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Hi all

Just set up a new heater for my stimmie and have a few questions. I am now using a 100w reptile one ceramic heater in a Eco Terra shroud, to fit it in the enclosure I had to cut out the back so now it sits on the aluminum mesh. That mesh is quite hot now and worrie that it might burn the snake if he touches it. Also it still isint getting to temperature, I want it to get in the 30s warm end and its airing at 27-28 the thermostat hasint even cut in yet because its not getting to the set temp. What do you guys think? I have attached some images.

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im thinking maybe try to cover up the cut out a bit more to hold the heat in better and put a couple of branches under the heater at different heights for basking spots say 10cm and 15cm and as for the mesh i would say it should be ok, your stimmy will only touch it once unless he's a slow learner...lol.. other than that its looking good8)
 
Oh ok, so the temps are ok? Also the mesh is hot when.I leave my hand on there for about 3secs then its ouch.

Anybody ????
 
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Just looking at the pics (and remember I'm no expert - but you took the time to private message me so I'm going to take the time to reply) I would say what the above poster has suggested is on the money. Your thermostat probe needs to be about 30cm below the heat lamp, sitting on a basking shelf (you want to read the temperature of whatever your snake will be sitting on, as an air temp read will be different and not as accurate)

Something like a really small hand-made table (instead of drilling into your enclosure) will enable your snake to get a nice basking shelf (so, a 20cm x 20cm top + some 15cm legs (at a rough guess) to get it off the ground will be enough for you to test it out) sit your probe on top of that shelf.

I did have issues with a 100w not putting out enough heat and it was on all the time, so I went up to a 200 watt, not that comes on and off really well (with a dimming thermostat ATS-210) and it's really great now.

As the hot air can escape through the top of the enclosure that will be responsible for some heat loss, but I'm in no position to tell you how to fix that, as I don't know the consequences of covering things like that up (our set up is internal, all wiring external, seperated by a wooden top, so it's a bit different.

I wouldn't just recommend going for a larger globe, as I think there are some other small changed to make first. I will try and draw a bit of a diagram what I mean with the basking spot (as the above posted suggested) and put it in this post, so it makes sense...
 
In the thrid pic... the white probe on the rock wall is the thermostat probe, the black probe on the side wall the thermometer probe?

If so what is the thermometer reading telling you..... I suggest putting those two probes in the same spot. Thermostat probe on the basking area with the thermometer probe as a back up temperature reading. What's the temp on the actuall basking spot?
 
OKAY! Excuse my AWFUL AWFUL skills on a computer, but this is what I would try:

The orange stand is a home made "mini table" that will enable your snake to get closer to the heat lamp, but still feel like it's on solid ground (helpful if it's not a branch climber - although I still think branches etc are a good idea as they help in the shedding process etc)

The blue mark is where I would have the thermostat probe sitting. On the shelf, that's where you want your hot spot to be. Directly under the lamp, about 30cm (mine's almost 40cm below) and if possible, I'd be feeding it from behind that rock wall and making a small hole to poke it through, so the lead doesn't get heat interfearence from heat in the tank (I've seen it before, it thinks it's hotter than it actaully is)

IMAG0049.jpg

The probe in my tank (below pic) sits directly under the heat lamp (40cm down approx) and it rests pretty much on top of the basking shelf I've made (my enclosure and shelf are high as Jungles are climbers, but you can naturally do a shorter shelf for your Stimmie) and I drilled a hole through the back wall and poked it through so it's just the probe that sits in the tank, no cord or anything like that (I've run 2 temp probes before to test this theory and sure enough, the probe with the cord in the tank read WAY hotter (3 degrees in fact) so it was actually colder in the tank than the probe thought!

IMG_0847.jpg

I hope this helps (even only a little)

Good Luck with it all. Let us know how you go.
 
In the thrid pic... the white probe on the rock wall is the thermostat probe, the black probe on the side wall the thermometer probe?

If so what is the thermometer reading telling you..... I suggest putting those two probes in the same spot. Thermostat probe on the basking area with the thermometer probe as a back up temperature reading. What's the temp on the actuall basking spot?

Thanks for your help!!! Correct the white probe is the thermostat and the black is the thermometer. It's giving me readings of 26-27 the heat is mainly at the top and not hitting the ground or.spreading. I put the thermostat there as that was the shop told me.
 
Thanks for your help!!! Correct the white probe is the thermostat and the black is the thermometer. It's giving me readings of 26-27 the heat is mainly at the top and not hitting the ground or.spreading. I put the thermostat there as that was the shop told me.

No worries mate.

Place the thermostat probe on the basking site and the thermometer with it and let us no how you go.
 
I am loosing a lot of heat through the top, I was thinking of moving the heater inside that way the heat is inside and it can spread? I would just have to get a cage and new socket.
 
I have nothing to add, other than that I am mightily impressed by Schnecke's photoshop abilities. MIGHTILY, I say.
 
You have been given some very good advice already. Here are just a few more ideas to throw into the mix. However, firstly let me correct some misinformation provided. Snakes do not react to heat on their bodies the same way humans do. They can and do get badly burned from coming into contact with excessively hot objects. How can you determine if something is “excessively hot”? Simple – the touch test. If you cannot keep your hand in constant contact with any hot area the snake can come into contact with, then it is too hot and you risk the likelihood of burning the snake.

Hot air rises. If you have venting in the top of the cage, heat will continue to escape through that vent. The larger the vents, the faster the air carrying the heat can escape.

The ideal heat source for pythons is one that heats from underneath. A 15W heat cord sandwiched between a thin MDF base (rebated to hold the cord in place) and a slate or ceramic tile on top is ideal. This can be placed in the back corner and requires a hole of 3 or so mm only to thread the cord into the cage. By adjusting the amount of cord under the tile, you can adjust the heat to the required temperature. I have a number of mates who use this system in Perth year round without a thermostat – but of course you can use one if you wish.

To utilize overhead heating, the light/heater fixture should be attached to the ceiling of the enclosure near one end. You then require a metal guard (cage) around the heat source. The guard needs to be of sufficient dimensions to pass the touch test. I would suggest that the not end should be the opposite end to the highest vent or furthest away from the vents if they are at the same height. This will assist heating efficiency. Please note, with a full length top-opening door you will a considerable amount of warm air each time the cage is opened, depending on how far it is opened and for how long. Just something to bear in mind.

I personally prefer having the minimum strength heating in any given situation. That way, if a thermostat fails, which occasionally they do, you are less likely to cook your animals. I also prefer placing the thermostat probe in the middle of the cage and setting it to the preferred body temperature of the snake. That way you know you have a one end cooler than and one end warmer than and the snake can thermoregulate. If you find a snake spends all its time at one end only, adjust the thermostat accordingly. For example, if always at the hot end, that individual snake obviuosly prefers it hotter so turn up the thermostat a degree or two.

Blue
 
You have been given some very good advice already. Here are just a few more ideas to throw into the mix. However, firstly let me correct some misinformation provided. Snakes do not react to heat on their bodies the same way humans do. They can and do get badly burned from coming into contact with excessively hot objects. How can you determine if something is “excessively hot”? Simple – the touch test. If you cannot keep your hand in constant contact with any hot area the snake can come into contact with, then it is too hot and you risk the likelihood of burning the snake.

Hot air rises. If you have venting in the top of the cage, heat will continue to escape through that vent. The larger the vents, the faster the air carrying the heat can escape.

The ideal heat source for pythons is one that heats from underneath. A 15W heat cord sandwiched between a thin MDF base (rebated to hold the cord in place) and a slate or ceramic tile on top is ideal. This can be placed in the back corner and requires a hole of 3 or so mm only to thread the cord into the cage. By adjusting the amount of cord under the tile, you can adjust the heat to the required temperature. I have a number of mates who use this system in Perth year round without a thermostat – but of course you can use one if you wish.

To utilize overhead heating, the light/heater fixture should be attached to the ceiling of the enclosure near one end. You then require a metal guard (cage) around the heat source. The guard needs to be of sufficient dimensions to pass the touch test. I would suggest that the not end should be the opposite end to the highest vent or furthest away from the vents if they are at the same height. This will assist heating efficiency. Please note, with a full length top-opening door you will a considerable amount of warm air each time the cage is opened, depending on how far it is opened and for how long. Just something to bear in mind.

I personally prefer having the minimum strength heating in any given situation. That way, if a thermostat fails, which occasionally they do, you are less likely to cook your animals. I also prefer placing the thermostat probe in the middle of the cage and setting it to the preferred body temperature of the snake. That way you know you have a one end cooler than and one end warmer than and the snake can thermoregulate. If you find a snake spends all its time at one end only, adjust the thermostat accordingly. For example, if always at the hot end, that individual snake obviuosly prefers it hotter so turn up the thermostat a degree or two.

Blue

Cheers for your Reply. So for pythons the best form of heating is a heatmat, or heatcord, somthing that heats the ground up rather than a ambient heater?
 
I have both a heat rock and a infrared globe both up one end. The top of my enclosure is all mesh (was told this would be ok with just the globe in for my stimmi) I 2 was loosing a lot of heat! So for me I just placed some towels (They dont touch the light just 2 b safe!) over the top in different positions to see what was the best way to stop the heat getting out. That way I can make a better top cover for her. Now my temps are where they should be! I only got a 6w heat rock (its small) and it helped. So I would think that getting a mat or heat cord is only going to help you 2. For me I need both. You may need both But Id be trying a combination till you find whats right. This worked for me I hope it helps!!!!!!
 
There is no one-way only. Use of bottom heat for pythons is appropriate, effective, safe (with heat cord), efficient and cheap. If you have an arboreal species (other than a GTP) then it is appropriate to have more height in the cage and branches for climbing and roosting. So you possibly add a heat light to the ceiling near the branches. It depends on the design of the cage, how much hot air gets trapped at the top and what temperature it gets to.

Heat mats and heat rocks have caused major problems at times. While the current heat rocks are much more reliable you are better off with a heat cord – cheaper and more flexible to use. For example, you can place a hide on top of the tile covering the heat cord. If you must buy a heat mat get the thin, flat ones. Do not buy the thicker ones with a type of gel sandwiched in white or light green plastic. They are known to fail and can cause fires. Here are some instructions for seting up your heat cord…
http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/diy-zone-5392/heat-cord-163468/#post1975667
Here is a reference article worth reading. Note: The author’s cage set up is at the very bottom.…
Untitled Document
What can happen with the gel heat mats…
http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/general-reptile-discussion-42/heat-mat-hell-omg-163797/
 
Thanks 4 that bluetongue! food 4 thought 4 me! im going to change my rock 4 heat cord now I know this!!! Very helpful!
 
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