How about people write a caresheet for the specie/s they have ? Someone do beardies, someone something else and so on. The book could be compiled like that, A complete caresheet from license to animal , well A to Z , for each species, all in one book. That could be where cyberbook may be better, size wise. ????????
Just a thought
- Thread starter instar
- Start date
Help Support Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum:
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Good idea I think...either downloadable or a normal book . The advantage of downloadable is I can read it at work!
As Simon said, there is a lot of information in old threads, however if you're looking for a specific subject it can be a bit time consuming to track down.
A system with an index would be invaluable.
As Simon said, there is a lot of information in old threads, however if you're looking for a specific subject it can be a bit time consuming to track down.
A system with an index would be invaluable.
S
Slateman
Guest
LOL Instar. My bool will start like this
Unce opon those times big snake coled carpet python vas prity popular in Ausralia.
Some czech walks did wery important study and find out that snake is producing poo every time after eating. Closely to week after. Me slateman started to study the poo patton further and place my self in to wander world...........
Can you understand to what i am coming to?
But seriously, somebody have to start something. If he is wrong or mistaking in some parts other will correct him ans add more in to it. That way we can have nice article about specie.
Unce opon those times big snake coled carpet python vas prity popular in Ausralia.
Some czech walks did wery important study and find out that snake is producing poo every time after eating. Closely to week after. Me slateman started to study the poo patton further and place my self in to wander world...........
Can you understand to what i am coming to?
But seriously, somebody have to start something. If he is wrong or mistaking in some parts other will correct him ans add more in to it. That way we can have nice article about specie.
LMAO Mr Slate, Id still love to read it. Please reconsider, like I suggest, Maybe Adam could help you in his spare time. No hurry ,but really, your own story and herp observations are worth just as much to a new herper as anyone elses, you keep snakes successfully so you must be doing something right. How about give it a go. Seems strange you havent done it yet, mate , its your own site! lol :?
C'mon everyone, give Mr Slate your vote of confidence, Vote 1 "Monty Burns"...um I mean "Mr Slate!" :lol: ...........really :lol:
C'mon everyone, give Mr Slate your vote of confidence, Vote 1 "Monty Burns"...um I mean "Mr Slate!" :lol: ...........really :lol:
First attemp at caresheet for APS book
Ok Mr Slate, sombody has begun, heres my basic caresheet for turtles.
Keeping common Freshwater turtles
Welcome to the hobby. This page is all about keeping Common
freshwater Turtles as pets. It is intended as Guide to benefit
new people of any age in the hobby, it begins with licensing in
your state, all the way through, Turtle accommodation, husbandry,
feeding, and health. This outlines the care of two most
commonly kept australian species. Note: You cannot keep
non native Species of any reptile in Australia.
1. Before you buy your Turtle, there several considerations to make.
First of all, given the right conditions and the right diet, your turtle
will live a long time. For shortneck species (Emydura) around 40 years.
for longnecks species (chelodina) about 50 years, some of this species
have been recorded at 70 years.
If you will buy a hatchling, it will grow to about 30cm in diameter for
Emydura and 28cm diameter for Chelodina, as adults. Your turtle will
acheive this size, under normal captive conditions in about 10 years.
Hatchlings are generally kept in indoor tanks or ponds until they are
two years old or so. After turtles have acheived a size of about 15cm
carapace length, they are moved to an outdoor pond.
Licensing laws vary from state to state, however excepting S.A you
will need a license in any other state. Contact N.P.W.S (national
parks and wildlife service) in your state.
N.S.W ~ http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/npws.nsf/Content/
Reptile+keepers+licence
Other ~ http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/npws.nsf/Content/
Wildlife+licences+in+other+states
2. Homework~ join www.aussiepythons.com Its a great "live" site,
all about reptile keeping in general. you will find all the tips, tricks,
and terrific first hand information, you will ever need online almost 24 hrs!
ACCOMODATION
Its important to have your new turtle/s home ready, BEFORE you bring it/them home.
for hatchling turtles, Aquariums are a favorite, but there are some considerations.
Your hatchlings are not strong swimmers yet, Small turtles can become exausted
while struggling to the surface and may drown if the water is too deep. about 10-12cm
depth is enough for the first three months. Turtles also need to be able to climb from the
water to rest and bask. You must be sure to include in your tank, a suitable gentle slope
for easy access to and from water.
Your Turtle, like all reptiles is ectothermic, it will rely on artificial warmth from its home
to regulate its body temperature. You will need to ensure the temp of the water is
suitable for your turtle . Some people like to keep different species together, both
species mentioned above can live happily together, provided they have space. You must
acheive a temp balance if you house both species together. For these two, About 24c is
good. Hatchlings are generally kept at these temps year round for the first two years.
They are easily chilled due to size and will not survive winter outdoors in the southern states.
Plenty of space is essential to happy turtles, although they have little concept of personal
space themselves. Your hatchlings will be small if you buy at a few weeks. About the size of a
10c coin. This does not mean they will stay small, however, and future size should be
taken into account. For two hatchlings a three foot aquarium will suffice, but a four foot
will suit them for the first two years, but they will be crowded in a three foot in about 18 months.
SUBSTRATE
No normal aquarium gravel or sand, These can cause serious impactions and fatalities.
Turtles are very inquisitive and will try to eat everything. Smooth pebbles twice the size of
the turtles head are best, they cannot be eaten and make cleaning easier. Rough basking ramps,
rocks or substrate, will be abrasive to your turtles plastron, especially hatchlings.
LIGHTING
your new pets will require good lighting to be happy active and healthy.
Turtles require ultra violet light, U.V. they would normal get all the U.V
they need outside, from the sun. U.V light is used by the turtle to
manufacture vitamin D . This is needed for strong bones and hard shell.
You can buy U.V. flourescent tubes from reputable pet shops and on
the web too.
Reptisun is a common brand frequently used. They are both U.V.A /U.V.B
(different frequencies, "A" is for active "B" is for bones) . These type lights are used
for 12 hrs a day and must generally be within 10-15cm from the water /basking surface.
Most standard size tanks are too high to allow this and U.V output from these tubes,
even at 12 hrs a day, is not really enough. 15 minutes a day outside will do more
for your turtle than a few hrs of tube U.V , I reccomend it. But remember,
Dont allow your tiny turtle to overheat, its fatal. you must provide shade and plenty
of water, remembering he needs to be able to climb out. Never leave him unattended.
Always make sure any water you put your turtle in (any small turtle) ,that it is deeper than your turtles shell (carapace) is long.
This ensures if the turtle falls on its back, it will have room and bouyancy to turn upright by itself, otherwise they can drown. This also applies to separate feeding containers etc. People are tempted to put their tiny hatchlings in just an inch or two of water, and has led to drownings.
Provided an easy route from water is avail the turtle will swim well enough in slow moving or still water, even at several times its carapace depth.
BASKING LIGHT
The land area you create for basking will need to be warmed (air) a normal 40 watt globe about
15cm from the surface will do. Use a thermometer, it should only be a few 3-5 deg warmer under it.
You will not require glass lids on your turtle tank, U.V from your tube will not penetrate
glass at all. Be sure land surface is not near enough the top that your pet can escape.
WATER
Since your turle spends most of its life in the water, water quality is very important.
Turtles require Clean water, not just clear water, be it a pond or aquarium.
Turtles defecate and urinate in the water like fish, but unlike fish, Theres lots more of it.
Most pollution in water is invisable. A good balance of mechanical ,biological and chemical
filteration is best. A cannister filter like @Fluval is ideal, they come in many sizes and incorporate
these three means of filteration. They contain a "Medium" of gravel, or similar on which a colony of
beneficial bacteria thrive, They also contain a sponge and carbon.
The carbon serves to chemically filter water of things like ammonia, the sponge acts as a biological medium aswell, supporting beneficial bacteria, and mechanically filters water.
The water turnover, is also important, The more it moves particularly the surface,
the more life giving oxygen it can soak up. Note: water should not move too fast for hatchlings,
no white water rafting, they can drown.
For hatchlings, a completly submersible filter will also do well.
A regular part water change and a pebble siphon can also greatly improve water quality,
About 1/3 the total water volume per month, can be refreshed, never all of it,
because you want to retain beneficial bacteria.
you can test for water P.H. levels (acid or Alkiline) with a goldfish P.h. test kit.
Best kept about 7 Neutral, the above regeim will acheive that.
Water Extra's.
1 teaspoon of Aquarium salt (for freshwater fish, not marine) per 10 litres of water
will act as a buffer against fungal outbreaks.
Make sure you have a plastic gaurd on your water heater (normal aquarium type)
little turtles will rest on them, you dont want burns.
Plants. many common aquarium plants will serve well in your turtle tank, valisneria
is popular and turtles love it. Dont get too concerned with the health of plants
in your turtletank, although healthy plants will oxygenate the water and provide
hiding and resting places, They will not live long enough to establish roots!
Turtles are destructive and mangle/munch plants to death. Cheap aquarium plants,
which are healthy to bigin with, are best bought several bunches at a time,
and replaced as they die off.
DIET
Just like you and me, variety is the spice of life. Your Turtle should have as wide a range
of food choices as possible. Hatchlings are largely carnivorous but each species
will become more omnivorous as they get older. At around 8-12 months Emyduras begin to
add more plant material to their diet.
Commercial foods~ while most of these are fine, they are no substitute for fresh food.
Dryed crickets etc can be bought, but should not be a staple.
Insects can include: (appropriate size) crickets, cockroaches, earthworms, flys, moths,
grasshoppers, silkworms, wax worms, some mealworms* bloodworms etc. You can buy these
live, never use wildcaught insects if unsure about pesticides.
Other: Small live fish, water snails, small yabbies, Dog food (not recommended) also
frozen foods like bloodworms and @turtledinner are ok.
You can make up your own frozen turtletucker for convenience and keep in the freezer.
Lean raw beef heart, Calamari, musscels, octopus, fish, fresh and salt water prawns
can be blended with a boiled egg yolk and greens, parsely and broccoli leaves, added to gelatine
then cut into blocks and frozen in a lunchbox.
Extras~ Mealworms are ok as a treat but have chitinous shells, too many of these can
cause impaction. They are best when just moulted (pale/soft).
Calcium~ calcium is vitally important for turtles bone growth and metabolism,
fish (whole) are a great source of calcium, as is cuttlebone for birds. This can be left to float
in the tank (metal catch removed), for hatchlings, it can be grated into water. It will sink eventually,
but will not dissolve or pollute the water, Older juveniles will eat it.
Playmates~ You can keep a few small fish with your turtles, but eventually they will be
Turtles dinner. Fish add to waste production so not too many.
Suppliments like Reptomin and Calcium can also be bought, These come in both powdered and liquid form and can be added to your homemade turtletucker, or any food and dusted on insects. Turtles only eat in water, so most will wash off if added at feed time. A good diet, variation should supplie all the goodness needed but suppliments dont hurt.
Feeding outside the tank in a separate container (icecream container) helps keep water cleaner in the tank, and you can be sure how much each turtle is eating. Hatchlings can be stressed by that, so it can wait a few months.
Warning: Never try to house large turtles with hatchlings, The hatchlings will be persecuted and
stressed and possibly killed by larger turtles. Always house same size(approx) together.
FEEDING
Turtles are oportunistic feeders, they will eat as much as they can for the lean times ahead, in the wild.
In captivity they are often overfed. 1 meal a day for the first three months, then every 2nd day for the
following three months. After 6 months, feeding every three days is enough.
How much?~ A peice of food about the size of your turtles head is a good guide per meal, for the first 6 months, after that, proportionatly larger. Remember, turtles dont chew, never too big.
HEALTH
Most health problems in turtles can be traced back to husbandry mistakes, neglect.
Always be sure its enviroment is clean, warm. Polluted water, bad diet and unsuitable temps cause most ailments.
If your turtle seems ill, there are a few things you can do, but the first is ensure its enviroment.
The next is to look for common symptoms.
For instance~ Wheezing, bubbles at the nose or remaining out of water for excessive periods,
indicates respitory problems, as does an inability to swim upright or floating.
Sores on skin or shell often indicate water pollution, and or nutritional deficiency.
A good vet is vital to a long term relationship. Monitoring enviromental conditions closely
can help you catch a problem, before it gets worse. If you feel your turtle is very ill, Get to your vet
without delay.
For more in depth information, WWW.aussiepythons.com
(sorry couldnt attach it.)
Ok Mr Slate, sombody has begun, heres my basic caresheet for turtles.
Keeping common Freshwater turtles
Welcome to the hobby. This page is all about keeping Common
freshwater Turtles as pets. It is intended as Guide to benefit
new people of any age in the hobby, it begins with licensing in
your state, all the way through, Turtle accommodation, husbandry,
feeding, and health. This outlines the care of two most
commonly kept australian species. Note: You cannot keep
non native Species of any reptile in Australia.
1. Before you buy your Turtle, there several considerations to make.
First of all, given the right conditions and the right diet, your turtle
will live a long time. For shortneck species (Emydura) around 40 years.
for longnecks species (chelodina) about 50 years, some of this species
have been recorded at 70 years.
If you will buy a hatchling, it will grow to about 30cm in diameter for
Emydura and 28cm diameter for Chelodina, as adults. Your turtle will
acheive this size, under normal captive conditions in about 10 years.
Hatchlings are generally kept in indoor tanks or ponds until they are
two years old or so. After turtles have acheived a size of about 15cm
carapace length, they are moved to an outdoor pond.
Licensing laws vary from state to state, however excepting S.A you
will need a license in any other state. Contact N.P.W.S (national
parks and wildlife service) in your state.
N.S.W ~ http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/npws.nsf/Content/
Reptile+keepers+licence
Other ~ http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/npws.nsf/Content/
Wildlife+licences+in+other+states
2. Homework~ join www.aussiepythons.com Its a great "live" site,
all about reptile keeping in general. you will find all the tips, tricks,
and terrific first hand information, you will ever need online almost 24 hrs!
ACCOMODATION
Its important to have your new turtle/s home ready, BEFORE you bring it/them home.
for hatchling turtles, Aquariums are a favorite, but there are some considerations.
Your hatchlings are not strong swimmers yet, Small turtles can become exausted
while struggling to the surface and may drown if the water is too deep. about 10-12cm
depth is enough for the first three months. Turtles also need to be able to climb from the
water to rest and bask. You must be sure to include in your tank, a suitable gentle slope
for easy access to and from water.
Your Turtle, like all reptiles is ectothermic, it will rely on artificial warmth from its home
to regulate its body temperature. You will need to ensure the temp of the water is
suitable for your turtle . Some people like to keep different species together, both
species mentioned above can live happily together, provided they have space. You must
acheive a temp balance if you house both species together. For these two, About 24c is
good. Hatchlings are generally kept at these temps year round for the first two years.
They are easily chilled due to size and will not survive winter outdoors in the southern states.
Plenty of space is essential to happy turtles, although they have little concept of personal
space themselves. Your hatchlings will be small if you buy at a few weeks. About the size of a
10c coin. This does not mean they will stay small, however, and future size should be
taken into account. For two hatchlings a three foot aquarium will suffice, but a four foot
will suit them for the first two years, but they will be crowded in a three foot in about 18 months.
SUBSTRATE
No normal aquarium gravel or sand, These can cause serious impactions and fatalities.
Turtles are very inquisitive and will try to eat everything. Smooth pebbles twice the size of
the turtles head are best, they cannot be eaten and make cleaning easier. Rough basking ramps,
rocks or substrate, will be abrasive to your turtles plastron, especially hatchlings.
LIGHTING
your new pets will require good lighting to be happy active and healthy.
Turtles require ultra violet light, U.V. they would normal get all the U.V
they need outside, from the sun. U.V light is used by the turtle to
manufacture vitamin D . This is needed for strong bones and hard shell.
You can buy U.V. flourescent tubes from reputable pet shops and on
the web too.
Reptisun is a common brand frequently used. They are both U.V.A /U.V.B
(different frequencies, "A" is for active "B" is for bones) . These type lights are used
for 12 hrs a day and must generally be within 10-15cm from the water /basking surface.
Most standard size tanks are too high to allow this and U.V output from these tubes,
even at 12 hrs a day, is not really enough. 15 minutes a day outside will do more
for your turtle than a few hrs of tube U.V , I reccomend it. But remember,
Dont allow your tiny turtle to overheat, its fatal. you must provide shade and plenty
of water, remembering he needs to be able to climb out. Never leave him unattended.
Always make sure any water you put your turtle in (any small turtle) ,that it is deeper than your turtles shell (carapace) is long.
This ensures if the turtle falls on its back, it will have room and bouyancy to turn upright by itself, otherwise they can drown. This also applies to separate feeding containers etc. People are tempted to put their tiny hatchlings in just an inch or two of water, and has led to drownings.
Provided an easy route from water is avail the turtle will swim well enough in slow moving or still water, even at several times its carapace depth.
BASKING LIGHT
The land area you create for basking will need to be warmed (air) a normal 40 watt globe about
15cm from the surface will do. Use a thermometer, it should only be a few 3-5 deg warmer under it.
You will not require glass lids on your turtle tank, U.V from your tube will not penetrate
glass at all. Be sure land surface is not near enough the top that your pet can escape.
WATER
Since your turle spends most of its life in the water, water quality is very important.
Turtles require Clean water, not just clear water, be it a pond or aquarium.
Turtles defecate and urinate in the water like fish, but unlike fish, Theres lots more of it.
Most pollution in water is invisable. A good balance of mechanical ,biological and chemical
filteration is best. A cannister filter like @Fluval is ideal, they come in many sizes and incorporate
these three means of filteration. They contain a "Medium" of gravel, or similar on which a colony of
beneficial bacteria thrive, They also contain a sponge and carbon.
The carbon serves to chemically filter water of things like ammonia, the sponge acts as a biological medium aswell, supporting beneficial bacteria, and mechanically filters water.
The water turnover, is also important, The more it moves particularly the surface,
the more life giving oxygen it can soak up. Note: water should not move too fast for hatchlings,
no white water rafting, they can drown.
For hatchlings, a completly submersible filter will also do well.
A regular part water change and a pebble siphon can also greatly improve water quality,
About 1/3 the total water volume per month, can be refreshed, never all of it,
because you want to retain beneficial bacteria.
you can test for water P.H. levels (acid or Alkiline) with a goldfish P.h. test kit.
Best kept about 7 Neutral, the above regeim will acheive that.
Water Extra's.
1 teaspoon of Aquarium salt (for freshwater fish, not marine) per 10 litres of water
will act as a buffer against fungal outbreaks.
Make sure you have a plastic gaurd on your water heater (normal aquarium type)
little turtles will rest on them, you dont want burns.
Plants. many common aquarium plants will serve well in your turtle tank, valisneria
is popular and turtles love it. Dont get too concerned with the health of plants
in your turtletank, although healthy plants will oxygenate the water and provide
hiding and resting places, They will not live long enough to establish roots!
Turtles are destructive and mangle/munch plants to death. Cheap aquarium plants,
which are healthy to bigin with, are best bought several bunches at a time,
and replaced as they die off.
DIET
Just like you and me, variety is the spice of life. Your Turtle should have as wide a range
of food choices as possible. Hatchlings are largely carnivorous but each species
will become more omnivorous as they get older. At around 8-12 months Emyduras begin to
add more plant material to their diet.
Commercial foods~ while most of these are fine, they are no substitute for fresh food.
Dryed crickets etc can be bought, but should not be a staple.
Insects can include: (appropriate size) crickets, cockroaches, earthworms, flys, moths,
grasshoppers, silkworms, wax worms, some mealworms* bloodworms etc. You can buy these
live, never use wildcaught insects if unsure about pesticides.
Other: Small live fish, water snails, small yabbies, Dog food (not recommended) also
frozen foods like bloodworms and @turtledinner are ok.
You can make up your own frozen turtletucker for convenience and keep in the freezer.
Lean raw beef heart, Calamari, musscels, octopus, fish, fresh and salt water prawns
can be blended with a boiled egg yolk and greens, parsely and broccoli leaves, added to gelatine
then cut into blocks and frozen in a lunchbox.
Extras~ Mealworms are ok as a treat but have chitinous shells, too many of these can
cause impaction. They are best when just moulted (pale/soft).
Calcium~ calcium is vitally important for turtles bone growth and metabolism,
fish (whole) are a great source of calcium, as is cuttlebone for birds. This can be left to float
in the tank (metal catch removed), for hatchlings, it can be grated into water. It will sink eventually,
but will not dissolve or pollute the water, Older juveniles will eat it.
Playmates~ You can keep a few small fish with your turtles, but eventually they will be
Turtles dinner. Fish add to waste production so not too many.
Suppliments like Reptomin and Calcium can also be bought, These come in both powdered and liquid form and can be added to your homemade turtletucker, or any food and dusted on insects. Turtles only eat in water, so most will wash off if added at feed time. A good diet, variation should supplie all the goodness needed but suppliments dont hurt.
Feeding outside the tank in a separate container (icecream container) helps keep water cleaner in the tank, and you can be sure how much each turtle is eating. Hatchlings can be stressed by that, so it can wait a few months.
Warning: Never try to house large turtles with hatchlings, The hatchlings will be persecuted and
stressed and possibly killed by larger turtles. Always house same size(approx) together.
FEEDING
Turtles are oportunistic feeders, they will eat as much as they can for the lean times ahead, in the wild.
In captivity they are often overfed. 1 meal a day for the first three months, then every 2nd day for the
following three months. After 6 months, feeding every three days is enough.
How much?~ A peice of food about the size of your turtles head is a good guide per meal, for the first 6 months, after that, proportionatly larger. Remember, turtles dont chew, never too big.
HEALTH
Most health problems in turtles can be traced back to husbandry mistakes, neglect.
Always be sure its enviroment is clean, warm. Polluted water, bad diet and unsuitable temps cause most ailments.
If your turtle seems ill, there are a few things you can do, but the first is ensure its enviroment.
The next is to look for common symptoms.
For instance~ Wheezing, bubbles at the nose or remaining out of water for excessive periods,
indicates respitory problems, as does an inability to swim upright or floating.
Sores on skin or shell often indicate water pollution, and or nutritional deficiency.
A good vet is vital to a long term relationship. Monitoring enviromental conditions closely
can help you catch a problem, before it gets worse. If you feel your turtle is very ill, Get to your vet
without delay.
For more in depth information, WWW.aussiepythons.com
(sorry couldnt attach it.)
earthmother
Well-Known Member
Inny I think its a great idea whether its on computer or in book form.
A friend and I wrote a cookbook once, it was a cool experience and with other contributors it wasn't all that hard to put together.
I've written a fact sheet on Bearded Dragons for kids. I don't know what to do with it lol.
It'd be good to have a chapter of the older herpers experiences as well. (Not me, the real 1s lol)
Em
A friend and I wrote a cookbook once, it was a cool experience and with other contributors it wasn't all that hard to put together.
I've written a fact sheet on Bearded Dragons for kids. I don't know what to do with it lol.
It'd be good to have a chapter of the older herpers experiences as well. (Not me, the real 1s lol)
Em
S
Slateman
Guest
Well done Instar. I know nothing about the turtles to add to your story. I wish if some people experianced with turtles would add anything you did not covered, and we can make article from it.
I didnt cover breeding because most newbies like to start with hatchlings and watch then grow.
They will not be too concerned with breeding yet, turtles will mature sexually in captivity at about 4-5 years, (6-8yrs in wild) this is mostly due to accellerated growth rates in captivity, temps etc. If people want to know about breeding, their are members here keep and breed turtles (Have not bred myself)
They will not be too concerned with breeding yet, turtles will mature sexually in captivity at about 4-5 years, (6-8yrs in wild) this is mostly due to accellerated growth rates in captivity, temps etc. If people want to know about breeding, their are members here keep and breed turtles (Have not bred myself)
cwarren72
Very Well-Known Member
I think this is a great idea Jan,, It would be a good way for you to raise funds that you could if you wish put into the site and take it from being a great site to the best on the web. While a paged book is a good idea I think you would be better off making it a virtual one that people could subscribe to which could then give them updates with the book. It could be an on going thing that evryone could collectively add to also. Who knows at the end it could be a book to rival the size of War and Peace.
BROWNS
Very Well-Known Member
Instar,you are a champion!!! I was about to post a thread asking about turtles.You have answered more questions than i could have asked for in a thread....
By the way,am i old school, aren't they tortises not turtles?
By the way,am i old school, aren't they tortises not turtles?
Good morning Browns, the way i have it, they are turtles in australia (now). Tortises are now classified as land dwelling ,with elephant like feet rather than webbed feet or flippers as in fly river turts(pignose) or sea turtles. All water dwellers come under turtles, i beleive, excepting where they are still refered to a "Terrapin" (America, France)?. Anyway, glad you found it useful, Im hoping someone else will write up something about keeping turts in outdoor ponds, maintanance/building ponds, larger filteration systems, algae control, positioning the pond, depth/planting, removing debris etc. And maybe a few notes about feeding outdoors, overwintering/hibernation etc. and breeding, for those intrested. I could source all that info from dear old dad (he used to breed all kinds), but he's gettin on a bit, its like getting a story from grandpa simpson these days. Lol :lol:
S
Slateman
Guest
Nobody is ading any more to your post so I am publishing it as article on this site.
Well done instar.
Well done instar.
Thanks Mr Slateman, I am waiting on permission from a turtle breeder freind to add his caresheet for turtles, covering outdoor ponds, breeding, disease treatment etc, which i did not cover. He has his own site and is considered an expert by many, has been breeding for years. Will post as soon as poss.
Farkurnell
Active Member
Turtles make nice soup.
jimmy_the_kid
Very Well-Known Member
that certainley is a mouth full
S
Slateman
Guest
I did put caresheet from Instar to caresheet forum ( new forum on APS)
Thank you Instar.
Thank you Instar.
- Status
