My baby Beardie wont eat!

[Stebyi]

i just got my self a beardie a week ago and im pretty sure hes not eating because he doesnt seem to chase the crickets and eat them and hes not really eating his greens, and i think the crickets are eating the greens. we are still working out heating and stuff becasue we need to get some wiring domne so we can add in the uvb light. other than that i dont know what could be the problem because he just likes to sit on his stick and soak up the heat from the heat lamp.

thanks.

 

[Rogue5861]

What temp is basking temp? Uvb tube should of been added before you got him, this will also be an issue.

What are your cold end temps?


Rick

 

[Stebyi]

the thermostat only goes up the 30 but im guessing im gonna need to change that, i do take him outside daily to get some uv and the colder end temp would probably be mid twenties.

 

[animal805]

You need to obtain a basking spot temp of 38-42C a warm end temp of mid 30s and a cool end temp of 26-28C. You UVB source is critical and should be situated so that when your baby is basking, he is no further than 30cm from uv. You need to sort that out asap and then allow him time to get used to his new surroundings. Husbandry first and then thing will improve.

 

[Stebyi]

okay thanks, ill get onto it

 

[lizardwhisperer]

In addition to the above suggestions.

CBDs require 10% UVB and at least 10% UVA to promote feeding and to metabolise Calcium.

Have you tried
- changing to smaller live foods (ie going down a size with the crickets)
- changing to using woodies
- try offering calci-gents
- if you can find them, offer some silkworms.
- probably wont harm it if you offer the occasionbal mealworm lavae, just one per meal to get it to start eating maybe.

Have you tried handfeeding live food ?

 

[Grogshla]

Also make sure you have a good UVB light with a 10.0 rating

 

[Rogue5861]

You do not need a 10.0 for beardie, 10.0 is over kill and proven to cause some issues if you dragon can get too close (within 150mm). A 5.0 will be more then adequate.


Rick

 

[Grogshla]

You do not need a 10.0 for beardie, 10.0 is over kill and proven to cause some issues if you dragon can get too close (within 150mm). A 5.0 will be more then adequate.


Rick

5.0 is not enough? Wow thats the first I have ever heard of that. From my understanding 10.0 is better for dragons some people even use the Arcadia 12%. Yes they can't get too close but if they are within 15-30cm that is perfect. 10.0 is the way to go for desert lizards and dragons. Not 5.0

 

[KaotikJezta]

Sorry Rick. going to disagree, 10.0 is the correct percentage for bearded dragons. Could you provide links to evidence of said problems.

 

[Rogue5861]

5.0 is not enough? Wow thats the first I have ever heard of that. From my understanding 10.0 is better for dragons some people even use the Arcadia 12%. Yes they can't get too close but if they are within 15-30cm that is perfect. 10.0 is the way to go for desert lizards and dragons. Not 5.0

5.0 is fine for beardies, Reptile City only use 5.0 an had around 350 hatch last season. Alot of breeders only use 5.0s and have not had issues with lack of calcium up take. Calcium powder with added d3 (most brands) should be dusted on every 2-3 feeds for hatchies/juvis an down to 1-2 as an adult.

If you wish to use a 10.0 you just need to be certain that they cannot get to close, these globes can cause major issues and a 5.0 is alot safer.

Uvb tubes are made cheaply and regardless of strength put out dismal levels of uvb, would be great if externally ballasted mvbs were as cheap as tubes. No reported issues with using mvbs apart from there high heat output.


Rick

 

[Grogshla]

Thats cool mate feel free to use whatever you want. But just because one place use 5.0 doesn't make it correct.

I will continue to use 10.0 as I always have with no problems at all. 99% of people will tell you that 10.0 is the way to go.

 

[Rogue5861]

Thats cool mate feel free to use whatever you want. But just because one place use 5.0 doesn't make it correct.

I will continue to use 10.0 as I always have with no problems at all. 99% of people will tell you that 10.0 is the way to go.

No worries, i have no issue with people using 10.0's but i was just wanting to throw in my 2 cents.

Only reason i have used a 10.0 was in a tall enclosure, as 6 months tube was swapped with a mvb and i have had no dramas.

Also know 2 other local breeders that successfully use 5.0's and both had over 150 hatchies this season. Its not just 1 person using them.


Rick

 

[Rogue5861]

Double post

 

[gregcranston]

I've always only used UVb 5.0, used a 10 once and the beardies in that enclosure developed eye issues, and they were 30cm from it, no less. Once i replaced the 10 with a 5, the issue resolved itself.

 

[animal805]

I've always only used UVb 5.0, used a 10 once and the beardies in that enclosure developed eye issues, and they were 30cm from it, no less. Once i replaced the 10 with a 5, the issue resolved itself.

I believe that this is an old problem and if you buy good quality brands you wont have a problem these days. I only use 10.0 and recommend same

 

[dragondragon]

Just needs to settle in first he might just be a bit shy

 

[gregcranston]

I believe that this is an old problem and if you buy good quality brands you wont have a problem these days. I only use 10.0 and recommend same

That may very well be the case, but 5.0 works for me, plus they get time out in the real sun too, which I think is far more important.

 

[KaotikJezta]

I also know people that use nothing and have heaps of hatchies and the female dies shortly afterwards, producing clutches is not evidence of proper lighting.

 

[KaotikJezta]

That may very well be the case, but 5.0 works for me, plus they get time out in the real sun too, which I think is far more important.

Totally agree with natural sunshine but a lot of people don't do that and combined with poor supplementation and inadequate lighting it is a recipe for disaster.