Plywood (marine grade)

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Mr.James

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I'm planning to build a new large rainforest enclosure 1800Hx1500Lx500D using marine grade plywood & looking for some advice on the best way to seal/waterproof it. I know of pondtite (not sure it will work well on timber though) & monocel gold marine grade varnish. Are there any better products to use?
 
if it going to have alot of humidity i would reccomend using fibre glass resin on it or gelcoat
 
As byron said, use gelcoat or fibre glass.

If you use this method you dont need to pay the extra for marine ply either.
 
Will Gelcoat hold well on the plywood? I'm also concerned with the vapors & toxicity of the products..
 
Will Gelcoat hold well on the plywood? I'm also concerned with the vapors & toxicity of the products..

It will hold very well, you wont pullit off without wrecking the ply.
Once your enclosure is built and coated set the heat very high for about a week and cook it that will take care of any probs with vapors from the coating.
Once cooked open and clean down and let air for a few days and should be ok
 
From what I've been googling gelcoat doesn't completely harden, it remains sticky even once dry.
 
Just found a different type of ply 'Polyester Plywood'

Anyone ever used this?
 
What about a waterproofing membrane, davco have an easy to use one, nice colour green, but remember it may not be as good as pondite ie fully submerging/pool of water in it.but it will keep moisture off the timber no probs.
There is also a two part waterproofing membrane that can have a real grittyness about it.
Just avoid the polyurethanes, the more you work them the runnier they get and a bugger to apply
i would be interested in your findings as all my enclosures are marine ply, and i would be interested in doing the same in the future.
I just dont like the idea of using a glass tank as i need to keep as much heat in the enclosures as possible due to the cold climate i live in

HERES A PIC OF A BATHRM I DID A FEW YEARS AGO IN THE DAVCO
ALSO A COUPLE OF PICS OF MY MARINE PLY ENCLOSURES IN MY ALBUM
 

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You are correct about Gelcoat remaining tacky. Gelcoat is designed to be overcoated with a laminating resin, usually containing wax, which has a hard clean surface. These are POLYESTER resins, which can be hazardous to use (the catalyst is especially dangerous to eyes) and produce a noxious smell. They are also poor adhesives, and become brittle if not reinforced with fibreglass.

The very best product would be a laminating EPOXY resin, these resins have a low odour, are very tough, and are excellent adhesives ('Araldite' glue is a heavy-bodied epoxy). There is a company called Barnes Silicones here which sells all sorts of useful products, and will deliver promptly by mail order, I buy these materials from them.

Epoxy is a bit more expensive than fibreglass (polyester) resin, but the much higher performance is well worth the extra cost. Just be careful to follow the instructions on the info sheet - epoxies must be mixed at the exact ratio indicated to ensure proper cure.

Jamie
 
Thanks bigi I'll check out your enclosures. Does the Davco say its ok for use on timber? Thats the only problem I can find with pondtite is they do not recommend it for use with timber. I called bondal today & they didn't help much, all they said was if the pondtite holds well it may work but they cant back it as they haven't done any testing. I have done a test peice & it seems fine..
 
Sorry, that's Barnes Crafts HQ... I've found them very helpful and they have a huge range of useful products...
 
I'll check them out Jamie. There has to be a simple way.. lol
 
Will Gelcoat hold well on the plywood? I'm also concerned with the vapors & toxicity of the products..
nah mate like anything just allow it to dry and air out will mean u could hose it out if u really want its that water proof lol
 
A good product to use is envirotex 2 part polymer resin, it is totally non porous and water proof, I use this product to coat bindings on fishing rods, I have rods that are around 15 years old that have been exposed to all sorts of harsh conditions over the years and they still look brand new. Wood workers use this product, one coat is supposedly equal to around 50 coats of varnish. There are other brands of 2 part poly resin out there but this one is the best I have used over the years.
 
From what I've been googling gelcoat doesn't completely harden, it remains sticky even once dry.
most of the people i know just mix a bit of resin with it and it will be fine have seen this done on many boats
 
Remember to give it a long time to air out, especially if you are using polyester or epoxy (Even moreso) fibreglass resins.

They usually take a few days to properly cure, and will continue to release fumes over this period, whether you can smell them or not.
Epoxy is more dangerous, because unless you are sensitised to the resin (which is usually achieved by working with it too much, as it is a cumulative poison which expresses itself in worsening degrees the more it is present in your system) it will generally be odourless.

It depends on how watertight you really need it to be. A polysester resin and silica combined to make a thick paste and applied to all joins will form an extremely good seal, which can be sanded, moulded and painted over with no hassles. I would use that to deal with joins, and then go with marine grade paint over the rest.
 
Just to correct the record... gelcoat resins are NOT finishing resins - they cure with a tacky surface to allow the application of the laminating resins over the top. Because of this, they can give off styrene monomer stink for a very long time. If you want a heavy-bodied polyester resin, as a finishing coat, get a 'flowcoat' resin. It sets up with a hard surface and is designed as a final coating.

I presume you want a relatively easy way to seal the timber, with as few materials and steps as possible. Epoxy is still the best product for what you want, along with the pourable product that Swampie suggests. I was assuming that you will work in a very well ventilated area, wear protective gloves etc, whatever product you choose to use.

Don't be casual about the mixing ratios of whatever you use either - don't just 'mix a bit of this with that..." the space your animal is living in is enclosed and relatively poorly ventilated, and probably heated as well. You need to be sure that the various components in the mixes you use are fully used up in the reaction as the resin hardens, or the surplus compounds can 'outgas' for a lot longer than you want. It's not rocket science... anyone who uses these products regularly can help. The thing you need to consider is that this is the living quarters for your animal, not a boat or some other item that is outdoors in the weather.

Another thing worth knowing, exposing the painted surfaces to sunlight greatly accelerates the curing of most of these products, so placing the painted components or enclosure in the sun when you've finished applying will set it up very quickly. Just don't mix and apply in the sun - it'll set up before you finish applying it!

Jamie
 
Thanks bigi I'll check out your enclosures. Does the Davco say its ok for use on timber? Thats the only problem I can find with pondtite is they do not recommend it for use with timber. I called bondal today & they didn't help much, all they said was if the pondtite holds well it may work but they cant back it as they haven't done any testing. I have done a test peice & it seems fine..

no problems, just do a google search on Davco, you can purchase them from tiling shops, the cementitous onces do look and feel gritty and are more difficult to use. The accrylics are easy, the polyurethanes are runny if overworked. They should all bond with timber no problems just remember to place bond breakers to the corners to allow for movement or a mesh would be ok. You could always look under waterproofers in the yellow pages, they can always do it for you
 
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