Snappy Yearling Albino Darwin Carpet Python

[Crüzz]

I have recently purchased a yearling albino Darwin carpet. When I bought it form the breeder, he had given it its minimum diet, though he is perfectly healthy. (Would this still be considered a hatchy???) In the inclosure, he is fine and moves around normally. There are no signs of stress too. Though, whenever I put my hand in the inclosure, to change the water bowl, he gets into his strike position and tries to bite me.

His feed is coming this Saturday and I need to handle him in order to move him into his feeding box.

Are Darwin Carpets snappy as yearlings or is he still adjusting to his new home? Should I continue the feed this Saturday or wait until he's trusted me.

- Thanks

 

[Tarron]

How long have you had him? What are you feeding him and how often and do you know the exact age he is? year and 3 months etc. Pretty sure If he is a year old then he is a yearling. He isn’t just going to “trust you” without doing anything. You gotta keep holding him and make sure your not stressing him. You could invest in a snake hook.

 

[Crüzz]

How long have you had him? What are you feeding him and how often and do you know the exact age he is? year and 3 months etc. Pretty sure If he is a year old then he is a yearling. He isn’t just going to “trust you” without doing anything. You gotta keep holding him and make sure your not stressing him. You could invest in a snake hook.

Iv'e had him for 4 days. Last feed was last Saturday (from the breeder). He is a year and 2 months. I do have a hook, however, when I try to get him on and bring him out and still gets into his strike position.

 

[Tarron]

Iv'e had him for 4 days. Last feed was last Saturday (from the breeder). He is a year and 2 months. I do have a hook, however, when I try to get him on and bring him out and still gets into his strike position.

4 days is not very much to settle into a new home. You only need to change the water once a week, I would skip the feed this week and try next week. Dont handle him until he has he’s meal then wait 2 days then try. He will be settle in by then and he should go good. My snake goes into strike and comes up to me in the strike position when I’m trying to do things in its cage. He doesn’t know you and your some big person going into his cage he is defensive, let him settle and he should change his ways.

 

[Crüzz]

4 days is not very much to settle into a new home. You only need to change the water once a week, I would skip the feed this week and try next week. Dont handle him until he has he’s meal then wait 2 days then try. He will be settle in by then and he should go good. My snake goes into strike and comes up to me in the strike position when I’m trying to do things in its cage. He doesn’t know you and your some big person going into his cage he is defensive, let him settle and he should change his ways.

Ok, Thanks for the help. I change the water bowl because there's bedding in the water. Just do it for safety reasons, though is it really necessary? Again, Thanks for the help.

 

[Tarron]

Ok, Thanks for the help. I change the water bowl because there's bedding in the water. Just do it for safety reasons, though is it really necessary? Again, Thanks for the help.

I would have no clue cause I don’t use loose bedding, I use newspaper, but if I did I would probably change it if it had some in it.

 

[Crüzz]

I would have no clue cause I don’t use loose bedding, I use newspaper, but if I did I would probably change it if it had some in it.

Ok. Thank You!

 

[Flaviemys purvisi]

Personally, I change the water for my snakes at least every 2 days. Do that for all my pets, dogs, birds, frogs, etc. It (in my own situation) would be totally rank after a week.

 

[GBWhite]

I have recently purchased a yearling albino Darwin carpet. When I bought it form the breeder, he had given it its minimum diet, though he is perfectly healthy. (Would this still be considered a hatchy???) In the inclosure, he is fine and moves around normally. There are no signs of stress too. Though, whenever I put my hand in the inclosure, to change the water bowl, he gets into his strike position and tries to bite me.

His feed is coming this Saturday and I need to handle him in order to move him into his feeding box.

Are Darwin Carpets snappy as yearlings or is he still adjusting to his new home? Should I continue the feed this Saturday or wait until he's trusted me.

- Thanks

Iv'e had him for 4 days. Last feed was last Saturday (from the breeder). He is a year and 2 months. I do have a hook, however, when I try to get him on and bring him out and still gets into his strike position.

Cruzz,

The action of placing your hand in the enclosure every day to change the water IS stressing the snake and causing him to go into defensive mode and bite you. You've only had it for a few days so leave it be to settle in and get used to its new surroundings. There is no need to change the water every day and once a week is fine. Because snakes eat whole food items (as in a complete animal) they don't need to drink water on a regular basis as they get the vast majority of their fluid requirements from the prey the eat. Some keepers only offer fresh drinking water once a week or even a fortnight without the snake suffering any detrimental effect.

There is also no need whatsoever to remove the snake to move it to a seperate box to feed it. just give it time to settle in and provided it's warm enough and feels secure in its enclosure all should go fine.

All the best,

George.

 

[Crüzz]

Cruzz,

The action of placing your hand in the enclosure every day to change the water IS stressing the snake and causing him to go into defensive mode and bite you. You've only had it for a few days so leave it be to settle in and get used to its new surroundings. There is no need to change the water every day and once a week is fine. Because snakes eat whole food items (as in a complete animal) they don't need to drink water on a regular basis as they get the vast majority of their fluid requirements from the prey the eat. Some keepers only offer fresh drinking water once a week or even a fortnight without the snake suffering any detrimental effect.

There is also no need whatsoever to remove the snake to move it to a seperate box to feed it. just give it time to settle in and provided it's warm enough and feels secure in its enclosure all should go fine.

All the best,

George.

Thank you, George, for the help. Would it be safe for a yearling to eat in its own enclosure with loose bedding? I'm just afraid that some of the bedding will get stuck onto the food, that's all. Other than that, thanks.

 

[Scutellatus]

Thank you, George, for the help. Would it be safe for a yearling to eat in its own enclosure with loose bedding? I'm just afraid that some of the bedding will get stuck onto the food, that's all. Other than that, thanks.

What bedding are you using? Most substrates are fine, if ingested they should pass with defecation, unless it is something like bark that has rough edges and is quite chunky.

 

[Fall guys]

Thank you, George, for the help. Would it be safe for a yearling to eat in its own enclosure with loose bedding? I'm just afraid that some of the bedding will get stuck onto the food, that's all. Other than that, thanks.

Don’t roll it around in the bedding and it will be fine I feed coastal on bedding since he was a worm and had no problems

 

[Crüzz]

What bedding are you using? Most substrates are fine, if ingested they should pass with defecation, unless it is something like bark that has rough edges and is quite chunky.

Luckily, I do not have bark. I have ultra-fine softwood flakes. I should be good as I don't roll the food in it. Quoted from Bl69aze

 

[GBWhite]

Luckily, I do not have bark. I have ultra-fine softwood flakes. I should be good as I don't roll the food in it. Quoted from Bl69aze

Some people prefer to defrost the food item in warm water and dry it before presenting it to the snake. If the food item is even slightly damp then it runs the risk of having the substrate stick to the fur/feathers. As Scutellatus has stated a small amount of ingested substrate will pass through the snake without harm but if you want to decrease the risk of ingested substrate try avoiding the warm water method and either defrost the item overnight in a sealed bag in a fridge and warm it up using a blow dryer or placing it in a place where it will be warmed by the sun or alternatively place the food item in a sealed plastic bag before submersion in warm water.

 

[Crüzz]

Some people prefer to defrost the food item in warm water and dry it before presenting it to the snake. If the food item is even slightly damp then it runs the risk of having the substrate stick to the fur/feathers. As Scutellatus has stated a small amount of ingested substrate will pass through the snake without harm but if you want to decrease the risk of ingested substrate try avoiding the warm water method and either defrost the item overnight in a sealed bag in a fridge and warm it up using a blow dryer or placing it in a place where it will be warmed by the sun or alternatively place the food item in a sealed plastic bag before submersion in warm water.

This sounds safer haha. I'll give this a shot. Thanks.