Thermostat help please

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lilmissrazz

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Hey guys!!!
I need some help!!. I have a 3ft UV light & a 60watt reflector globe with two down lights in my beardie enclosure, Evidently the down-lights don't get turned on coz they aren't needed, the reflector does a great job on its own,
However, I need to get a thermostat for my new enclosure as it will be the first summer my beardies have been in it!.
I don't want to spend a small fortune on the blasted thing either!. I just want a thermostat thats simple to use and reliable.
This will get a laugh out of people who are more experienced but do you run your UV tube off it also or would i just run it to the heat source??.

Thanks for your help guys :-D
 
hey chicky nah you dont run your uvb light off your thermostat as it would get turned off and on when ever ... you can put your uv on a timer tho ......
 
Yea everythings run on timers :-D

Just need something to kick in and shut the heat source down when it reaches a certain temp for em. lol
 
Check on ebay, there are usually reasonable ones on there.

Will you be running just the one enclosure on a thermostat?
 
ummm I will need to get 2 or 3, 1 for each enclosure and one for an incubator.

What should i be looking for lizards?? I mean brands etc I honestly have no clue where to start mate lol
 
If your going more than 1 enclosure than it's probably worth grabbing an australian reptiles night day thermostat than can do more than 1 enclosure from one unit and give you UV on/off control as well.

It's a little more pricey ut if you lookin at say 4 or 5 wall thermostats it's probably the same cost.
 
Typically to guard against overheating you would use what is commonly referred to as a "Fan thermostat" - notionally because it turns on a fan (or air conditioner) when it gets too hot.

However it seems to me that you are trying to guard against the room as a whole getting too hot. In this case you might want a wall type thermostat to cut power to all the heating and lighting when the room temperature exceeds a certain threshold. Your standard older style THAT-40 probe thermostat could do this out of the box. It allows the "off" temperature to be as high as 40C (what the 40 stands for) and switches the full 10 amps that your basic wall socket is rated at.
 
Probe Thermostat Model THATO40
An economical, efficient thermostat suitable to control heating appliances in a dry environment. It has a dial reading of 0 to 40C with a stainless steel remote bulb sensor. Rated at 10 amps and accurate to +/- 1C.
Fully wired and ready to operate. Simply plug in your heat source. The thermostat remains outside of the cage/enclosure and the probe is inserted into the cage at the desired position. Can be used to control air temperature heating but is essential to control heat mats, flexible floor heating etc. Also suitable for incubators where the probe can be inserted into the actual egg container.
(See also the Habistat™ Temperature Thermostat
and See also the Habistat™ Mat Thermostat)
[SIZE=+1]$70.00[/SIZE]

per unit
[SIZE=+3] [/SIZE]​
 
So assuming you have all your lights running off a single timer this thermostat would be setup between your timer and your lights and its probe situated somewhere in the room where the temperature is representative, eg taped to the outside of an enclosure. With the thermostat set at say 30C it will turn off all the lights controlled by that timer when the temperature at the proble location gets to 30C (with will be hotter inside the enclosures directly under the lights).
 
No it is just to ensure that the lights aren't on if it is already stinking hot. Probably, therefore, the best place to check this is in the room itself. If it is already 35C in the room where your animals are and you do not have aircon then use the thermostat to turn off all the lights.

(I would also watch for symptoms like your animals cowering in the coolest corner of their enclosures as another indication that they are suffering heat stress.)
 
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