Toads Must Die!!!
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dobermanmick
Very Well-Known Member
I find the quickest way to kill a toad is the golf club method its not cruel because they die instantly
No different to giving a rat a quick knock on the head before feeding !
No different to giving a rat a quick knock on the head before feeding !
HERE IS MY 2 CENTS
Everybody has killed somthing for being a pest at one time or another. as long as people dont cause pain (even pulling the wings off flies, which i admit i have done but before i knew better) then i dont have to much of a problem.
Everybody has killed somthing for being a pest at one time or another. as long as people dont cause pain (even pulling the wings off flies, which i admit i have done but before i knew better) then i dont have to much of a problem.
Playwell, I think you left the most important part out of your post, being:
A. Would you feel like killing the toads in your yard -HUMANELY.
Yes, toads should die, doesn't mean they deserve to be tortured. Kill them as you please, just do it quickly.
A. Would you feel like killing the toads in your yard -HUMANELY.
Yes, toads should die, doesn't mean they deserve to be tortured. Kill them as you please, just do it quickly.
africancichlidau
Almost Legendary
Most of us anyway 
jimmy_the_kid
Very Well-Known Member
yea exatlcy not me zoe
snakegirl
Active Member
we go down to the swamp - me and my three kids and collect all the baby jumping toadies and as I can't kill them I flush them down the toilet... humane ... dunno but if they get a chance to grow they will kill my dogs and we have 6 families of geckoes at our place, I make sure my place is toad free... hugs
G
Guest
Guest
Re: RE: Toads Must Die!!!
Ahhh, so thats what brushed against my leg at bondi beach the other day!!!
LOL, sydney joke!!
snakegirl said:
Ahhh, so thats what brushed against my leg at bondi beach the other day!!!
LOL, sydney joke!!
snakegirl
Active Member
RE: Re: RE: Toads Must Die!!!
hee hee
hee hee
snakegirl
Active Member
RE: Re: RE: Toads Must Die!!!
ohhh Inny, I knew you would have to answer, damn I never thought of that... You know I won't be able to do it now... anyone know where the toilet water goes....??
ohhh Inny, I knew you would have to answer, damn I never thought of that... You know I won't be able to do it now... anyone know where the toilet water goes....??
jimmy_the_kid
Very Well-Known Member
RE: Re: RE: Toads Must Die!!!
yea it end up couming out of the end of innys kitchen tap not filtered of cause y do u think he is talking so much $h!t lol j/k
yea it end up couming out of the end of innys kitchen tap not filtered of cause y do u think he is talking so much $h!t lol j/k
RE: Re: RE: Toads Must Die!!!
Toilet water goes to a sewage treatment plant, not into the storm water which is what fills your local lake. It is filtered, mushed, heat treated then dried and used as soil enricher. Flush them toads away.
Toilet water goes to a sewage treatment plant, not into the storm water which is what fills your local lake. It is filtered, mushed, heat treated then dried and used as soil enricher. Flush them toads away.
RE: Re: RE: Toads Must Die!!!
Another reason to be careful about disposal is that they carry chytrid fungus. DONT bury them in the garden! Even though this site advises.
The rest is worth a read.
http://www.fdrproject.org/pages/TDdispose.htm
You can help elminate cane toads on your property, at a nearby playground or creek and at your school ground. This can be done at various stages of the cane toad life cycle. For example, you can pull their eggs out of ponds and dams; you can scoop up toadpoles with aquarium nets (only if you can ACCURATELY identify which are toads and which are frogs) and you can hunt for young toads and adults. You can volunteer to join organised groups who are working to clear cane toads from a particular site (such as Gladstone Toadbusters) or you can organise your class to do this as a class project.
How to dispose of toads is something that some locals look upon as a creative exercise based on the Gary Larson notion 'how many ways can you skin a cat'. We have heard some horrible accounts of what is done to toads just because they are a pest. However, just because the toad is a pest, this is NO EXCUSE for animal cruelty and sadism. The toad doesn't know it's a pest and it feels pain like all other living animals. Cane toads should be killed humanely and this means methods which invoke the least amount of pain and trauma.
We recently found a large toad while surveying for frogs in Cairns. Whatever happened to this toad was a mystery until we had it checked by a vet, but our first sight of it shocked us so much that it took our breath away. Nothing illustrates a point like photos:
The eye on the left was damaged and fused to the surrounding skin; the right eye was burnt out entirely and the surrounding skin continued to dissolve after the eye was gone. The vet's conclusion was that a caustic chemical was sprayed into the eyes of this toad. No other damage was seen on the body and, of course, the toad was in intense pain and left to suffer for a long time. This kind of behaviour is disgusting -- pest or not.
Don't use clubs or sticks to bash cane toads or grab toads by their legs and bash them against objects. There is a risk to you as well as being a cruel means to kill the toad. Most of the poison in a cane toad is concentrated in two raised areas just behind it's eyes called paratoid glands. If you bash a toad and rupture either of those glands, the toxic fluid can splatter you. If any of this should get into your eyes, you will need medical attention and your vision will be affected for some time.
Don't spray chemicals on them such as bleach, hydrogen peroxide or Dettol. These have a reputation of a fast kill but the reality is that not all of them actually kill the toad outright. The amount of pain they do cause is unacceptable. Hydrogen peroxide is an acid; bleach is an irritant and Dettol works by short-circuiting the central nervous system (the sensation is probably similar to being electrocuted). If you should spray something which turns out to be a burrowing frog instead of a toad, this leads to a painful death for the frog. We strongly discourage the use of chemicals but for those who are aggro enough to persist, do not touch any frogs you find once you have held the chemical container in your hands. The slightest residues of these chemicals in your skin will still cause death for the frog and it will take a long time to do it.
Many Australians consider running over toads with their cars to be a sport worthy of an Olympic medal. However, swerving on the road is not a safe way to drive and mistaken identity is common. Some frogs will sit on the road looking very much like a toad and their colouration doesn't always display well when hit with very bright headlights.
The easiest and most humane way to eliminate toads is to get rid of them at their egg stage. Pull the toad eggs out of the water and dispose of them by either putting them into your compost bin, burying them in the garden or leaving them on the lawn to dry in the sun. (See our Toad Eggs page for identification.)
The most humane way to kill juvenile and adult cane toads is to catch them and put them into a secure container with air holes (plastic takeaway food containers are ideal). Put the container in a refrigerator overnight which causes the toad to go into a coma-like state. Then move the container to the freezer the next morning and freeze until the next garbage collection day or freeze it for a couple days and then bury them in the backyard compost bin or garden bed.
It is perfectly safe to store the toads in the fridge and freezer and we do this at home all the time. If you get together with your neighbors to clear toads from your street, one of them might have an old spare freezer which can be used by several homes. Another benefit to having to catch the toads is that you can examine them according to the characteristics shown in our 'Make No Mistake' page to make sure they are definitely toads and not a species of ground dwelling frog. And one more benefit to catching the toads is that you can help us study them by turning in ones you find which are sick or deformed. (see our page on Illnesses and deformities!)
Many people are afraid to touch cane toads. However, their skin is dry and they don't release any fluid from their glands unless you hit them or handle them very roughly. Remember, in the early days, adults and children used to keep cane toads as pets and they handled them all the time without problems. We used to have a moderate size toad here named Petunia who was handled all the time and taken to talks (she died from an airbourne disease that came in the door with a sick frog). Even Glen Ingram, a Curator of the Queensland Museum, had a huge pet toad named Betty who weighed well over 4 kilos! If you are concerned about touching toads, you can wear gloves or put a plastic bag over your hand. Always remember to wash your hands thoroughly whenever you have handled cane toads.
A last thought: when you next think of how you will kill the toads in your yard, ask yourself if you would kill an Australian frog that way. If it is inhumane for the frog, it is inhumane for the toad!
Rather not kill toads? Keep them out!
Deliberately disposing of an animal can be a traumatic experience for many people. Just think if everyone had to go out and kill their own food - there would suddenly be many more vegetarians than carnivores. So the idea of inflicting death on a cane toad, no matter how humane, is out of the question for some people. The strategy then has to turn to ways in which they can be kept out. (Please keep in mind though, that when you keep the toads out, you'll also be keeping out Australian ground dwelling species!)
Just in case you haven't read our toad disposal page first, we need to point out here that the only toads that you should be trying to exclude are introduced cane/marine toads (Bufo marinus). This page is basically for Australians and a few other locations where Bufo marinus has been introduced and become a pest. Other species of toads should not be disposed of or excluded. If you are not sure about what toads you have in your area, you can contact your local parks service, Fish and Wildlife, or other environmental authority.
There is no magic potion to repel cane toads and they are an amphibian so they are around the same types of places as frogs and looking to satisfy the same neccessities (food, water, shelter, breeding). So any kind of control or disposal is really a matter of manually doing something specific that is targeted towards the toad. This is much easier in the suburbs than it would be for a cattle station or a national park.
It is possible to fence out toads and create an exclusion zone. This is an approach you could use if you wanted to keep toads out of a pond or to have a dog run area where your pets could not possibly encounter toads. You might use this method to keep toads out of the entire back yard or if you have the finances, you could fence off your entire property. The area to be included in the exclusion zone is up to you. There are some design complications however when major access points need to breach the zone's border such as driving a car into the driveway.
The fence needs to be at least 60cm (2 feet) high above ground level, have straight, vertical (or outward tilting) walls; and extend below ground level at least 15cm (6 inches). The choice of materials depends on the size of your wallet but there should be no gaps in the material. For example, a wooden paling fence is not a good choice because the bit that needs to go underground will rot and if the spaces between the palings is a mere 4mm wide, juveniles toads will still get in. However, if you have the money, you could make the bottom of the fence besser bricks with the first layer placed below ground and three more layers above ground level. Above that, you could put paling, metal tubing, wrought iron - anything you want. Most people, however, are not 'flash with cash' and need to find cheaper fencing materials. If the primary reason for the fence is to keep out toads, then shade cloth and star pickets are sufficient!
Such a fence would be installed as follows:
select the area you are going to be fencing off and mark the path of the fence using whatever means you chose (sprinkling a line of powder or gypsum, using little stakes or tent pegs and running string between them, etc.)
dig a trench 8 inches deep under the entire fence line
hammer in the star pickets into the bottom of the trench - the distance is up to you but if they are more than 1.6 metres (6 feet) apart, this will reduce the strength of your fence
attach the shade cloth to each picket starting from the last picket and moving to the next in order, making sure to stretch the shade cloth so that it is pulled taught between each picket; the bottom of the cloth should drape neatly down into the bottom of the trench
if your fence line is circular (in other words, the beginning of the fence line meets up with the end of the fence line), be sure there are no gaps by overlapping the shade cloth at least six inches; you can then use fishing line or yarn to sew the two pieces of cloth together; for a fence which meets up with a wall, you'll need to examine how you want to attach the shade cloth to the wall (renters need to check with their agents/homeowners first as modifications to the wall might be considered damage which you'll have to fix before moving out) but whatever means is used, there should be no gaps at all or else the toads will get in at that spot
fill back the soil on both sides of the shade cloth so that the trench is filled and even with the soil level
if you want to screen the outside of your new exclusion zone with plants, use something that grows in the ground (not in pots) and preferably with vertical stems (like heliconias, gingers, spider lilies, etc.). Do not put pot plants, rocks, steps, short statues or anything else on the outside wall as toads will easily use these items as steps to get over the top of the wall.
If you already have a perimeter fence which surrounds your property, you can use this as your base to make the entire property off limit to toads. A wooden paling fence will be the easiest to use as you can simply staple the shade cloth to the inside of the fence (you still need to dig your trench below the fence line, extend the shade cloth at least six inches down and fill back). A tubular fence or a chain link fence can still have the shade cloth attached but plastic fasteners would be used instead of staples. (Hardware shops now have those plastic ties you just loop through and pull - they're cheap, last a long time and can simply be cut if you move and want to dismantle your fence to take with you.)
Flyscreen might be a less visually distracting material to use instead of shade cloth but this is not as durable and will not last for very long, especially if you are in an area of cyclones or freak violent storms (like Brisbane and Sydney) or if you have dogs. However, with the example of the perimetre paling fence above, flyscreen would be acceptable as it is merely closing the gaps in an existing strong fence.
The tricky bit is when you need to gain frequent access to the area inside a self-enclosed exclusion zone. For example, many people use such fencing to protect an in-ground pond. If you're tall, you will most likely step over the 60cm wall with ease but not everybody is tall. If you want to keep a set of stairs permanently at the fence line, use above-ground pool stairs as these are not substantial enough for toads to navigate up and they have steps on both sides. Otherwise, you can keep something to step on permanently inside the exclusion zone and just wheel over something to the outside wall and pull it away again before you leave.
If your zone includes the driveway, you might need to think about excluding the driveway by running the fence line up both sides. Be sure to check under the garage door to make sure it is flush to the ground or you can attach one of those rubber guards along the bottom. You can keep the garage door open during the day but be sure it has been closed before sunset.
Acreage properties and stations are just too big unfortunately to consider fencing off large areas in this way, but smaller areas can be chosen on the property such as heavily vegetated areas which are used by wildlife and dams. Open dams in particular will become mass production factories for toads as they like the warm, still water. If you normally allow livestock to access dams at their leisure, you might put in the exclusion fencing around the dams to stop the toads breeding in them and just pump the water to a trough that is at least 60cm deep outside the exclusion fence.
Another reason to be careful about disposal is that they carry chytrid fungus. DONT bury them in the garden! Even though this site advises.
The rest is worth a read.
http://www.fdrproject.org/pages/TDdispose.htm
You can help elminate cane toads on your property, at a nearby playground or creek and at your school ground. This can be done at various stages of the cane toad life cycle. For example, you can pull their eggs out of ponds and dams; you can scoop up toadpoles with aquarium nets (only if you can ACCURATELY identify which are toads and which are frogs) and you can hunt for young toads and adults. You can volunteer to join organised groups who are working to clear cane toads from a particular site (such as Gladstone Toadbusters) or you can organise your class to do this as a class project.
How to dispose of toads is something that some locals look upon as a creative exercise based on the Gary Larson notion 'how many ways can you skin a cat'. We have heard some horrible accounts of what is done to toads just because they are a pest. However, just because the toad is a pest, this is NO EXCUSE for animal cruelty and sadism. The toad doesn't know it's a pest and it feels pain like all other living animals. Cane toads should be killed humanely and this means methods which invoke the least amount of pain and trauma.
We recently found a large toad while surveying for frogs in Cairns. Whatever happened to this toad was a mystery until we had it checked by a vet, but our first sight of it shocked us so much that it took our breath away. Nothing illustrates a point like photos:
The eye on the left was damaged and fused to the surrounding skin; the right eye was burnt out entirely and the surrounding skin continued to dissolve after the eye was gone. The vet's conclusion was that a caustic chemical was sprayed into the eyes of this toad. No other damage was seen on the body and, of course, the toad was in intense pain and left to suffer for a long time. This kind of behaviour is disgusting -- pest or not.
Don't use clubs or sticks to bash cane toads or grab toads by their legs and bash them against objects. There is a risk to you as well as being a cruel means to kill the toad. Most of the poison in a cane toad is concentrated in two raised areas just behind it's eyes called paratoid glands. If you bash a toad and rupture either of those glands, the toxic fluid can splatter you. If any of this should get into your eyes, you will need medical attention and your vision will be affected for some time.
Don't spray chemicals on them such as bleach, hydrogen peroxide or Dettol. These have a reputation of a fast kill but the reality is that not all of them actually kill the toad outright. The amount of pain they do cause is unacceptable. Hydrogen peroxide is an acid; bleach is an irritant and Dettol works by short-circuiting the central nervous system (the sensation is probably similar to being electrocuted). If you should spray something which turns out to be a burrowing frog instead of a toad, this leads to a painful death for the frog. We strongly discourage the use of chemicals but for those who are aggro enough to persist, do not touch any frogs you find once you have held the chemical container in your hands. The slightest residues of these chemicals in your skin will still cause death for the frog and it will take a long time to do it.
Many Australians consider running over toads with their cars to be a sport worthy of an Olympic medal. However, swerving on the road is not a safe way to drive and mistaken identity is common. Some frogs will sit on the road looking very much like a toad and their colouration doesn't always display well when hit with very bright headlights.
The easiest and most humane way to eliminate toads is to get rid of them at their egg stage. Pull the toad eggs out of the water and dispose of them by either putting them into your compost bin, burying them in the garden or leaving them on the lawn to dry in the sun. (See our Toad Eggs page for identification.)
The most humane way to kill juvenile and adult cane toads is to catch them and put them into a secure container with air holes (plastic takeaway food containers are ideal). Put the container in a refrigerator overnight which causes the toad to go into a coma-like state. Then move the container to the freezer the next morning and freeze until the next garbage collection day or freeze it for a couple days and then bury them in the backyard compost bin or garden bed.
It is perfectly safe to store the toads in the fridge and freezer and we do this at home all the time. If you get together with your neighbors to clear toads from your street, one of them might have an old spare freezer which can be used by several homes. Another benefit to having to catch the toads is that you can examine them according to the characteristics shown in our 'Make No Mistake' page to make sure they are definitely toads and not a species of ground dwelling frog. And one more benefit to catching the toads is that you can help us study them by turning in ones you find which are sick or deformed. (see our page on Illnesses and deformities!)
Many people are afraid to touch cane toads. However, their skin is dry and they don't release any fluid from their glands unless you hit them or handle them very roughly. Remember, in the early days, adults and children used to keep cane toads as pets and they handled them all the time without problems. We used to have a moderate size toad here named Petunia who was handled all the time and taken to talks (she died from an airbourne disease that came in the door with a sick frog). Even Glen Ingram, a Curator of the Queensland Museum, had a huge pet toad named Betty who weighed well over 4 kilos! If you are concerned about touching toads, you can wear gloves or put a plastic bag over your hand. Always remember to wash your hands thoroughly whenever you have handled cane toads.
A last thought: when you next think of how you will kill the toads in your yard, ask yourself if you would kill an Australian frog that way. If it is inhumane for the frog, it is inhumane for the toad!
Rather not kill toads? Keep them out!
Deliberately disposing of an animal can be a traumatic experience for many people. Just think if everyone had to go out and kill their own food - there would suddenly be many more vegetarians than carnivores. So the idea of inflicting death on a cane toad, no matter how humane, is out of the question for some people. The strategy then has to turn to ways in which they can be kept out. (Please keep in mind though, that when you keep the toads out, you'll also be keeping out Australian ground dwelling species!)
Just in case you haven't read our toad disposal page first, we need to point out here that the only toads that you should be trying to exclude are introduced cane/marine toads (Bufo marinus). This page is basically for Australians and a few other locations where Bufo marinus has been introduced and become a pest. Other species of toads should not be disposed of or excluded. If you are not sure about what toads you have in your area, you can contact your local parks service, Fish and Wildlife, or other environmental authority.
There is no magic potion to repel cane toads and they are an amphibian so they are around the same types of places as frogs and looking to satisfy the same neccessities (food, water, shelter, breeding). So any kind of control or disposal is really a matter of manually doing something specific that is targeted towards the toad. This is much easier in the suburbs than it would be for a cattle station or a national park.
It is possible to fence out toads and create an exclusion zone. This is an approach you could use if you wanted to keep toads out of a pond or to have a dog run area where your pets could not possibly encounter toads. You might use this method to keep toads out of the entire back yard or if you have the finances, you could fence off your entire property. The area to be included in the exclusion zone is up to you. There are some design complications however when major access points need to breach the zone's border such as driving a car into the driveway.
The fence needs to be at least 60cm (2 feet) high above ground level, have straight, vertical (or outward tilting) walls; and extend below ground level at least 15cm (6 inches). The choice of materials depends on the size of your wallet but there should be no gaps in the material. For example, a wooden paling fence is not a good choice because the bit that needs to go underground will rot and if the spaces between the palings is a mere 4mm wide, juveniles toads will still get in. However, if you have the money, you could make the bottom of the fence besser bricks with the first layer placed below ground and three more layers above ground level. Above that, you could put paling, metal tubing, wrought iron - anything you want. Most people, however, are not 'flash with cash' and need to find cheaper fencing materials. If the primary reason for the fence is to keep out toads, then shade cloth and star pickets are sufficient!
Such a fence would be installed as follows:
select the area you are going to be fencing off and mark the path of the fence using whatever means you chose (sprinkling a line of powder or gypsum, using little stakes or tent pegs and running string between them, etc.)
dig a trench 8 inches deep under the entire fence line
hammer in the star pickets into the bottom of the trench - the distance is up to you but if they are more than 1.6 metres (6 feet) apart, this will reduce the strength of your fence
attach the shade cloth to each picket starting from the last picket and moving to the next in order, making sure to stretch the shade cloth so that it is pulled taught between each picket; the bottom of the cloth should drape neatly down into the bottom of the trench
if your fence line is circular (in other words, the beginning of the fence line meets up with the end of the fence line), be sure there are no gaps by overlapping the shade cloth at least six inches; you can then use fishing line or yarn to sew the two pieces of cloth together; for a fence which meets up with a wall, you'll need to examine how you want to attach the shade cloth to the wall (renters need to check with their agents/homeowners first as modifications to the wall might be considered damage which you'll have to fix before moving out) but whatever means is used, there should be no gaps at all or else the toads will get in at that spot
fill back the soil on both sides of the shade cloth so that the trench is filled and even with the soil level
if you want to screen the outside of your new exclusion zone with plants, use something that grows in the ground (not in pots) and preferably with vertical stems (like heliconias, gingers, spider lilies, etc.). Do not put pot plants, rocks, steps, short statues or anything else on the outside wall as toads will easily use these items as steps to get over the top of the wall.
If you already have a perimeter fence which surrounds your property, you can use this as your base to make the entire property off limit to toads. A wooden paling fence will be the easiest to use as you can simply staple the shade cloth to the inside of the fence (you still need to dig your trench below the fence line, extend the shade cloth at least six inches down and fill back). A tubular fence or a chain link fence can still have the shade cloth attached but plastic fasteners would be used instead of staples. (Hardware shops now have those plastic ties you just loop through and pull - they're cheap, last a long time and can simply be cut if you move and want to dismantle your fence to take with you.)
Flyscreen might be a less visually distracting material to use instead of shade cloth but this is not as durable and will not last for very long, especially if you are in an area of cyclones or freak violent storms (like Brisbane and Sydney) or if you have dogs. However, with the example of the perimetre paling fence above, flyscreen would be acceptable as it is merely closing the gaps in an existing strong fence.
The tricky bit is when you need to gain frequent access to the area inside a self-enclosed exclusion zone. For example, many people use such fencing to protect an in-ground pond. If you're tall, you will most likely step over the 60cm wall with ease but not everybody is tall. If you want to keep a set of stairs permanently at the fence line, use above-ground pool stairs as these are not substantial enough for toads to navigate up and they have steps on both sides. Otherwise, you can keep something to step on permanently inside the exclusion zone and just wheel over something to the outside wall and pull it away again before you leave.
If your zone includes the driveway, you might need to think about excluding the driveway by running the fence line up both sides. Be sure to check under the garage door to make sure it is flush to the ground or you can attach one of those rubber guards along the bottom. You can keep the garage door open during the day but be sure it has been closed before sunset.
Acreage properties and stations are just too big unfortunately to consider fencing off large areas in this way, but smaller areas can be chosen on the property such as heavily vegetated areas which are used by wildlife and dams. Open dams in particular will become mass production factories for toads as they like the warm, still water. If you normally allow livestock to access dams at their leisure, you might put in the exclusion fencing around the dams to stop the toads breeding in them and just pump the water to a trough that is at least 60cm deep outside the exclusion fence.
Yeah, Playwell, I agree. I thought the original thread started by Inny was going well, as no-one had started abusing others, and the arguments were reasonable, but then it started to go downhill (That's why it isn't there any more!)
I have to take this opportunity to remind people of the rules! NO PERSONAL ABUSE OR ATTACKS - BY ANYONE! If we see that sort of thing, we'll have no option but to delete the offending posts, issue a warning to the offending parties and lock the thread.
"2. Be nice to other members and respect they privacy. Any name calling or general nastiness will not be tolerated. You will be given a chance to apologise, however if not done so, or if you are a repeat offender, your account will be deleted. "
"7. If a thread starts going bad (off topic or abusive) the thread may be locked to prevent deteriation of the topic, particularly if the people responsible don't respond to PM's on the subject. "
"8. If you have a beef with someone and don't want to have the moderators handle it, then PM (Personal Message) them directly. Fights in forums bring the whole feel of the community down and will not be tolerated. Any comments or arguments in the forums may be deleted without notice at the sole discretion of the moderators and admins. Discussions on any such action will be at the sole discretion of the admins/moderators. "
The policy is that on the first offense we issue a warning. Second offense = 2 day suspension. Third offense = 2 week suspension. 4th offense = deletion from the system. No arguments, no discussion. We will try to apply this to everyone equally. It certainly gives everyone a fair chance to "mend their ways", we think. The aim of all the moderators is to remain as calm and fair as possible and apply the rules fairly to everyone. We're only human, but we'll do our best to be fair and even-handed.
Speaking of rule breaking, there's a rule that says, "No swearing". This includes so-called "disguised" swear words. After this reminder, we'll be enforcing this rule strictly. PLEASE refrain from swearing.
"1. No swearing, cursing or flooding, you will be given one warning and if it happens again, your account will be deleted. If you have to replace any characters of a swear word, it's still a swear word! We're not stupid - we know what you are trying to say - just don't say it!!!! There are many alternative words to swear words - think of some! "
I have to take this opportunity to remind people of the rules! NO PERSONAL ABUSE OR ATTACKS - BY ANYONE! If we see that sort of thing, we'll have no option but to delete the offending posts, issue a warning to the offending parties and lock the thread.
"2. Be nice to other members and respect they privacy. Any name calling or general nastiness will not be tolerated. You will be given a chance to apologise, however if not done so, or if you are a repeat offender, your account will be deleted. "
"7. If a thread starts going bad (off topic or abusive) the thread may be locked to prevent deteriation of the topic, particularly if the people responsible don't respond to PM's on the subject. "
"8. If you have a beef with someone and don't want to have the moderators handle it, then PM (Personal Message) them directly. Fights in forums bring the whole feel of the community down and will not be tolerated. Any comments or arguments in the forums may be deleted without notice at the sole discretion of the moderators and admins. Discussions on any such action will be at the sole discretion of the admins/moderators. "
The policy is that on the first offense we issue a warning. Second offense = 2 day suspension. Third offense = 2 week suspension. 4th offense = deletion from the system. No arguments, no discussion. We will try to apply this to everyone equally. It certainly gives everyone a fair chance to "mend their ways", we think. The aim of all the moderators is to remain as calm and fair as possible and apply the rules fairly to everyone. We're only human, but we'll do our best to be fair and even-handed.
Speaking of rule breaking, there's a rule that says, "No swearing". This includes so-called "disguised" swear words. After this reminder, we'll be enforcing this rule strictly. PLEASE refrain from swearing.
"1. No swearing, cursing or flooding, you will be given one warning and if it happens again, your account will be deleted. If you have to replace any characters of a swear word, it's still a swear word! We're not stupid - we know what you are trying to say - just don't say it!!!! There are many alternative words to swear words - think of some! "
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