Woma Care Sheet Needed Please

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thanks! do i need a heaat mat or will the red light be good enoughh ??

Initially, when I first got my Woma, 2 breeders told me they should have heat all year round when they're young...

That means heat mat and infrareds (or similar) and therefore keep feeding through winter as well (proving temps are hight) for the first 2 years, although some snakes may refuse food in winter earlier, when they're 1 or so, which is not a worry.

When they're older and not so shy, you may only need an IR as they'll come out of their hide more often to bask under the IR!

From my research, up in QLD, where winter is warmer, (adult) Womas are kept at higher temps, than SA.

SXR's enclosure drawing on care sheet is not 100% correct for Womas... He used a drawing for his other adult snakes that need higher humidity - that's why the water bowl is on the hot side, but should be placed on the cool side instead (unless necessary during shed)

Here's another graphic from Pythons1:
795ba535-05ce-4513.jpg


As you can see on this example, it has 2 hides, more suitable for young and shy snakes.

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I have woma I use 35watt downlight hoalgen 12v light or u can use 240v 35watts hoalgen downlight for basking at day and 35 watt heat mat for floor heating under tile controlled by thermostat works well but everybody setup is different depend how long u want them to last :) I leave heat mat on all the time
 
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Initially, when I first got my Woma, 2 breeders told me they should have heat all year round when they're young...

That means heat mat and infrareds (or similar) and therefore keep feeding through winter as well (proving temps are hight) for the first 2 years, although some snakes may refuse food in winter earlier, when they're 1 or so, which is not a worry.

When they're older and not so shy, you may only need an IR as they'll come out of their hide more often to bask under the IR!

From my research, up in QLD, where winter is warmer, (adult) Womas are kept at higher temps, than SA.

SXR's enclosure drawing on care sheet is not 100% correct for Womas... He used a drawing for his other adult snakes that need higher humidity - that's why the water bowl is on the hot side, but should be placed on the cool side instead (unless necessary during shed)

Here's another graphic from Pythons1:
795ba535-05ce-4513.jpg


As you can see on this example, it has 2 hides, more suitable for young and shy snakes.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Thaanks :)

I have woma I use 35watt downlight hoalgen 12v light or u can use 240v 35watts hoalgen downlight for basking at day and 35 watt heat mat for floor heating under tile controlled by thermostat works well but everybody setup is different depend how long u want them to last :) I leave heat mat on all the time
Hoalgen ???
 
You are aware that woma's are known to have a propensity to just "latch on and have a munch" while being handled ? Given your concern about being bitten by a hatchie Childreni, this is probably something you should know.
 
I have woma I use 35watt downlight hoalgen 12v light or u can use 240v 35watts hoalgen downlight for basking at day and 35 watt heat mat for floor heating under tile controlled by thermostat works well but everybody setup is different depend how long u want them to last :) I leave heat mat on all the time


Do you mean halogen?

I never used them with any of my pets or even at home... (only scuba diving and that was many years ago) I don' think they produce enough heat for a reptile enclosure and they're way too bright!

What do you use at night time?
 
Do you mean halogen?

I never used them with any of my pets or even at home... (only scuba diving and that was many years ago) I don' think they produce enough heat for a reptile enclosure and they're way too bright!

What do you use at night time?

Halogens work great.I have been using 50W halogens for years and they throw a heap of heat easily giving a 35c basking spot at a distance of 600mm.Snakes don't seem to mind them either,albinos included.
 
U can spray the lights with engine heat spray blue red or black I haven't tried that yet I wonder if someone already done it
 
U can spray the lights with engine heat spray blue red or black I haven't tried that yet I wonder if someone already done it

I was doing this around 10 years ago to save money on buying the IR globes. It worked OK, although they didn't tend to last any longer than the IR globes, just much cheaper. There was no light at all though - the paint is so thick no light gets through - just heats up. Red, Blue, Black makes no difference - It didn't change the colour of the light emitted (just blocked it out), and I can't imagine the paints of today would be any different.

I wouldn't do it again, as I prefer to be able to see the light - it's a quick indicator of a blown bulb for a start, but I guess it is an option if someone wants to do it on the cheap.

I would let the paint dry, then run the globes outside for an hour or so to eliminate the fumes.
 
I saw one at bunnings they have red light but it got aluminum coating back of the halogen I thought it might give focus heat on one spot instead of fanning out worried might burn on one spot of the snake skin .wonder if u guys have experience about aluminum coating halogen downlights?
 
... I guess it is an option if someone wants to do it on the cheap...

An infrared from Reprile One costs 8 bucks, how much cheaper is the paint?


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An infrared from Reprile One costs 8 bucks, how much cheaper is the paint?

Back then I was paying $25+ per IR globe. Standard globes I think I could get 2 for a dollar, so by the time I paid (maybe $10) for the paint I was still way in front. There are much better options available now (some of these may have been available back then but they were nowhere near as widely used/available as now) - heat cords, heat mats, heat panels, CHE's, etc.

Besides, I reckon you're doing alright with IR globes @ $8 each....... I'm still paying $18 for mine.
 
Oh I see, I thought you were buying the paint now...

Yeah 50W = $8, 75W & 100W = $12
Initially they didn't last long (couple months or so), but for 8 bucks I didn't care.

I've since adjust temps, so there's less switch ON/OFF and also found out petshop does replace them within 12 months :)


P.S. I don't like Che's, I've just changed back to IRs.
Che's get way too hot to point of bending/bow the top lid of my enclosure! (only on hot side) :(

And I believe they don't throw heat as far down to cage floor as IRs do.

Just my personal experience though.


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@ rvcasa if the roof of your enclosure bowed in then it was always going to bow in because its wasn't supported properly , the heat may have helped it along but it isnt the sole cause and would have happened eventually even if it wasn't heated , i use ceramic heat emitters in homemade enclosures that have plenty of support in the roof and have not had the slightest bow in any of the enclosures
 
I understand where you're coming from, but I noticed the 'extreme' bow only happened since I installed the 100W che...

I forgot to mention since I got rid of che, it's almost back to normal.

As far as support, it's exactly the same support as any Saburra 120 from Reptile One.

Cheers. :)


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As far as support, it's exactly the same support as any Saburra 120 from Reptile One.

Cheers. :)


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what sort of support do they have in the roof ? any or are they just a melamine roof with no actual frame support , and yes like i said the heat may have helped but it isnt the only cause and removing it wont solve the problem entirely , over time moisture will bow it

wood bows over time if it isnt supported properly or isnt stored properly ( ever seen big lengths of wood bow so far out of shape their useless just from being left out side ) thats more what i was getting at , if the enclosure bowed then it was always going to happen even if it had absolutely no heat in it at all other factors would have come into play like moisture and our old friend gravity :)
 
...i use... homemade enclosures that have plenty of support in the roof...

What do you mean by that?
I've never seen any enclosures with support on the roof, commercial or handmade.
Am I missing something?:)


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well what i mean is a solid wooden frame then just ply or similar walls , , ive seen plenty like that , ive made them using the same specs you would use for a fish tank stand so i can stack them and they work great ill post some photos of what i mean if i can be bothered

or is it just thick melamine or ply with out any frame , i think that may be what it is which is why it has sagged because it had no support ive seen this in my mates enclosures that i believe may be the same as yours
 
Please be bothered, Thomas. I reckon more people would be interested than you realise.
righto , just for you rob ;) :) still got to take the photos so ill put them up later today

ok so as you can see i have put a piece of wood running along the roof ( roughly 37 cm apart )to support the piece of ply and stop it from sagging and where my hand is there is another piece of wood running downwards but you cant see it because its covered up with a background , the piece of wood you can see running along the top of the background is actually part of the frame as well

to bad i didn't take any pics when i was making it would have been alot easier to explain , but ive drawn a very very rough drawing to show what the frame would look like with out any walls or any thing , the thicker black line at the front is another piece of wood for support i just didn't finish it of because it got in the way of the rest of the lines and the dotted lines are the support for the roof and running down the back walls
 

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