My new 'heat matt' set up

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congo_python

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I decided to set up my new enclosures with a 4.3m heat cord under a tile, just didnt realise how long it would take to set up 12 enclosures in this fashion lol, but all done now. Some progression pics of the construction.

What do you think ? The tiles are pre-sealed and so easy to clean + i got them for free so it was a bonus, now I just have to decide if i want to change all my other enclosures over to the same design.
 

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Thats awesome is that in a melamine enclosure?
may i ask what you used to stick the heatcord to the tile?
 
Looks great, does it need a bit of an air gap between the tile and the floor to let excess heat out like you would have with a heat mat?
 
Kurt ,
If you can cut tiles it might be quicker to cut 3 x 20-30mm wide strips of tiles to run down 3 sides under the tile , leaving the back open so the cord runs out , you could just tape the cord into place and glue down the tile , saves all that annoying routing work ..
 
Awesome work! Damn you live in Penrith I was going to say if you need any more practice....lol...

Apart from the comments that you might need same air space thing.?..

It looks great... happy pretty snake too..
 
Looks great Kurt, but I would have to agree with Dicky, that would save a hell of a lot of time routing your enclosures out. It could then be easily removed it needed without having any routed holes in the floor of the enclosure. A few dabs of hot glue on the cord will hold it in place and also the gap would give you enough room for a thermostat probe if needed. Great idea though.

Daz:D
 
I have taped the cord down and have 5-8ml angle with rounded edges for the tile to slot into so if I want to change the setup all I'm left with is 4 small holes where the angle is screwed down. I find using the 4m cord a thermostat isn't need provided you monitor temps for a while and adjust by spacing and/or removing some of the cord
 
No because it is only a very small section of the enclosure so the Stimmies and Carpets can move on and of as required all my animals except geckos have a hot spot around 40
 
Thankx for the comments guys...
Dicky the routering work is all the fun of it lol.... + im going to keep this set up and I will use it for any new enclosures in the future as it works a treat. 30- 32c on the tile - very constant even with out a hide on top and 25 watts too boot per enclosure compared to the good old days of lights at 75w an enclosure.... U can't beat it hands down.It also looks great and easy as to clean with the SEALED tiles, the uric acid just wipes off I can't believe it.
Best set up i've ever done, a good hot spot and a nice cool end right next to the tile. I cant believe how much time they spend in the cool end compared too my 'old' enclosures that were heated via a globe 'air space heated'..... so much wasted energy in my opinion.
 
I agree save money easy to clean, and it looks smick, no heat light with an ugly cage.
 
What I like about the tiles is they have a high specific heat – which means they require a fair bit of heat to raise their temperature. This means that is cold reptile plonks itself on top of one, the tile won’t quickly go cold from the heat being absorbed by the reptile’s body. U can also use slate, instead of ceramic, if you are into a more naturalistic effect. Tile places often don’t mind giving away a sample or two. I have seen the following variation on what you are doing. It has the advantage of being transferable and leaving the enclosure intact should you wish to later sell it. It is also just as useable with plastic moulded enclosures.

Cut a thin sheet of MDF to the same dimensions as the tile. Using a bench saw, cut parallel grooves every 2 cm across the entire surface of the board, to a depth that will just accommodate the heat cored. A router can be used instead if you so wish. Repeat this process at right angles to the original grooves. Thread your heat cord into the grooves and place the tile on top. Adjust the amount and positioning of the heat cord to get the desired temperature. Fix the tile in place with small pieces of Blutac, if required, but you may find that is not necessary – depends on the snake. Alternatively, a thin edging strip may be used and held in place with panel pins and or glue on the edge of the MDF base and the tile dropped in from above.


Looks great, does it need a bit of an air gap between the tile and the floor to let excess heat out like you would have with a heat mat?
NO. Wood (including particle board) is not a great conductor. Ceramic or slate tiles, on the other hand, are reasonably good conductors. Try walking on each floor covering in winter and see which one takes the heat out of your feet quicker i.e. which “feels” colder. So heat is readily distributed EVENLY throughout the tile and does not build up in any one spot, obviating the need for an air gap.

.
Blue
 
i use this same method on all of my elapids it works such a treat and saves a lot of power as one 25 watt heat cord is all i need for each tile. I have just taped the cord to the tile havent routed it and it works great and seal it with silicone.
 
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