Diamond not eating?

[Repto]

Hi, I have a diamond python 5 mnths old (female) that i have had since Feb. after her first shed at the start of March i fed her 1 fuzzy on march 6, then two fuzzies each fortnight which she was happy to take, on May 15 she would not take anything, tried next day, no go, then next week may 24 she took a pinky rat after two frustrating attempts. Since then I have not been able to feed her anything, she seems more interested in me or just getting out of her feeding tub! Has no interest in her food at all, even if I waive it around, touch her face, anything! I thought she may be shedding after she struggled to take her last feed, but has shown no signs of shedding. Please help. Its now been 3 weeks since last feed and still not hungary. As she is only small I have not changed her daily heating/lighting schedule (8 hrs UV, 25-28 deg hot end from 8am - 8pm). Hope this is enough info for some help.
Cheers:?

 

[driftoz]

u only keep the hot end at 25-28*c for 12 hrs a day ? all hatchlings should be kept at around 30*c 24/7 on the hot end.

 

[clubby05]

I also have a 6mth old Diamond and it is random at accepting food, it may go for 3-4 weeks refusing then it will take a fuzzy mouse. Then may go for another 4 weeks before it will accept another one. They are all different and as long as it is active, healthy and strong when handled, i wouldnt be to concerned just yet. In this cooler weather 1-2 months without a feed can be normal. My Diamond is in a similar set up but prefers the cool end and is always out and about. I gave up worrying and let just let them go as long as they want without food (within reason) but 3 months would not be unusual this time of year.
Cheers

 

[driftoz]

yes not feeding isnt a huge prob for maybe a month or more during these cooler times but make sure there heated 24/7 at around 30*c on the warm end and 20*c + on the cool end.

 

[oreo1]

u only keep the hot end at 25-28*c for 12 hrs a day ? all hatchlings should be kept at around 30*c 24/7 on the hot end.

agreed. however you could try leaving her in a pillow case (or some breathable bag) with the food for a while, but keep an eye on her

 

[clubby05]

I agree with keeping hatchlings at 30*c 24/7 as this what i have for coastals, top end, jungle, but find the Diamonds prefer a slightly cooler environment and it appears quite content in its surroundings. Diamonds can endure the cold weather without the problems associated with other northern species of pythons.

 

[driftoz]

even if it can do with cooler temp it should still be kept at a warm temp for 24hrs a day not 12hrs and then no heat while its a hatchey

 

[Owzi]

agreed. however you could try leaving her in a pillow case (or some breathable bag) with the food for a while, but keep an eye on her

Um, why? I have never heard of this & don't really understand the thinking behind it?
I would say with you not heating your hatchling at night, the cooler winter temps would be the reason behind your hatchy not feeding. Some people choose to let Diamonds experiance a cooling in their first year, cooler temps & raising Diamonds slower than other pythons will help keep away Diamond Python Syndrome. But I think its best to keep Diamonds warm for their first year & give them a winter cool in their second year. As has been said, get your warm end temps up closer to 30, I think your hatchy will start feeding again after a week or so with constant heat.

 

[driftoz]

Um, why? I have never heard of this & don't really understand the thinking behind it?

i think she ment for feeding so its in a daker confined space you could prob do the same with a small feeding container and put a towel over it so it can be left alone to eat.

 

[Repto]

I was told not to heat her at night as Diamonds are native to my area and the cooler temp at night will not bother her. Now im in two minds whether I should heat at night?! if so, should the temp through the night be less than day temp (30*)? or just leave the thermostat on 24/7?
Besides the feeding, she is a very active snake when handled, seems very happy. I have noticed shes been a bit snappy but I was away for a couple of weeks so she was not handled for that period, usually I get her out once a day at night. When should I expect her next shed?

 

[Norm]

I think most people would suggest constant heat for first year, even for a diamond. As long as they have a cool end they`ll find the right spot for them.

 

[Owzi]

The advice you have got about not heating her at night is fine, but I dare say most wild Diamonds would be starting to go off their food now because of the winter temps. In captivity I think its best to heat Diamonds for their first year to ensure they continue to feed & get some size on them. If you asked every Diamond keeper what they would do, you may get half saying one thing, half saying the other. Listen to everyone then you decide what you think is best for your animal. If you choose to keep the temps low at night be prepaired for your snake to not eat until the end of winter. My adult Diamonds are only getting 4-5 hours of heating now during the day & I'm letting temps drop at night, but I fed them weekly during the warmer months before stopping feeding them last month. This is why my opinion with hatchys is keep them warm for the first year, feed them up & get some size on them, then their second winter they have some size & reserves to be able to go off food for the winter.

All the best with what you choose,
Andrew

 

[PhilK]

If diamond hatchies have it cool (sometimes freezing cold) at night in the wild how come some of you guys think they need 24/7 heating at 30 degrees?

I know you can't really compare our captives to the wild but just curious.

 

[Norm]

Just going off advice given to me by breeders, both that I have got my snakes from and some I didn`t.

 

[driftoz]

better chance for survival i guess, as ive read on other threads from what people have said out of say 10 hatchies how may would survie there first winter? its upto the owners what they want to do but if it was me i would keep it heated 24/7 even if u dropped the temps for night time but at least still keep it 20* or something

 

[dragonscrawling]

If diamond hatchies have it cool (sometimes freezing cold) at night in the wild how come some of you guys think they need 24/7 heating at 30 degrees?

I know you can't really compare our captives to the wild but just curious.

As stated above we want 100% hatchie survival for their first winter, not wild population mortality.

If you intend to only give 12hours of heat over winter you can expect it to stop eating, it is that simple. I would suggest giving it constant heat this winter and reduce next as others have said.

 

[Repto]

Thanks for all the advice, I think I might keep her heated 24/7 for the first year as recommended as this does seem to make sense to me to get her feeding throughout the winter.
Cheers

 

[thebraddles]

ive never kept my hatchies on 24/7 heat, although its not going to hurt them either way for the first year. my diamonds are the only pythons i have that have always been fussy about there food. for example my female who is just on 12 months now has just taken her first mouse in about 5 weeks. but my male, who is just over 12 months and in the same enclosure hasnt missed a feed since day dot. i wouldnt worry about it. heat on 24/7 or not, if it aint sick it will eat when its hungry.

 

[cement]

If diamond hatchies have it cool (sometimes freezing cold) at night in the wild how come some of you guys think they need 24/7 heating at 30 degrees?

I know you can't really compare our captives to the wild but just curious.

You can compare, and the reason why is that your captive diamond will do just fine if it escapes into the wild down here.
Snakes have an amazing ability to find warmth and survive our winters.
I keep my diamond hatchlings on 30degree heat supplied to 1 third of the tub floor 24/7. If it gets too hot they will move to the cool end or climb up off the ground onto a perch. The reason I heat 24/7 in their first year is because a small snake is at a distinct disadvantage because of their size (they lose heat quicker) and they have an infants immunity system. So to hatch out 25 or so eggs only too lose half due to sickness and RI would be a disaster. Feed them all through winter it gives them a really good start in life, and cool them second or third year.