Feeding hatchling jungle python

[ladydj890]

My hatchie jungle was sold to me after just 3 feeds and one shed and I havent been able to get him to feed for near a month now :cry: I gave up on trying to feed him rats as advised, I have moved from pinkies to fuzzies.

He is in a hunting mood right now and is position to strike so i have to fuzzies defrosting. But my question is how do I feed it to him like dangle it infront for strike feeding or simply leave it in his enclosure..
everytime that he wasn't interested in strikefeeding I would leave the pinkie is his tank, there was only one time out of about twelve times ive done this and he actually acknowledged there was anything in there, but then slithered past it..

Tips please? Because I've been told over and over again not to worry but weeks are beggining to creep by and he still hasnt eaten.

- - - Updated - - -

Also how long does it take a hatchie to shed? because his scales have gone faded and even handling him he feels different, like dry & would that have something to do with the no feeding, even though the shed is taking so long?
:?

 

[MesseNoire]

I agree, My hatchie jungle was sold to me after just 3 feeds and one shed and I havent been able to get him to feed for near a month now :cry: I gave up on trying to feed him rats as advised, I have moved from pinkies to fuzzies.

He is in a hunting mood right now and is position to strike so i have to fuzzies defrosting. But my question is how do I feed it to him like dangle it infront for strike feeding or simply leave it in his enclosure..
everytime that he wasn't interested in strikefeeding I would leave the pinkie is his tank, there was only one time out of about twelve times ive done this and he actually acknowledged there was anything in there, but then slithered past it..

Tips please? Because I've been told over and over again not to worry but weeks are beggining to creep by and he still hasnt eaten.

- - - Updated - - -

Also how long does it take a hatchie to shed? because his scales have gone faded and even handling him he feels different, like dry & would that have something to do with the no feeding, even though the shed is taking so long?
:?

There you go. Stop handling it (especially if you think it's going to shed) I usually prod mine gently in the side with the rat and they strike right away, then coil and eat the rat.

 

[ladydj890]

There you go. Stop handling it (especially if you think it's going to shed) I usually prod mine gently in the side with the rat and they strike right away, then coil and eat the rat.

The only reason I had handled him since I have assumed he is shedding is because his tank needed cleaning and it was just to get him out and into a pillow slip.

 

[Beans]

Mmm you really need to check that they are a well established eater. Otherwise you get these problems, and if you aren't equipped with the knowledge to deal with it, it can go south.

Have tried snipping the tip of the pinkies nose off? This can release some nice scents, as can shoving a needle through its head (braining). As fractal said, poke them with it, Rub it on them. Just keep persisting and hopefully it will get annoyed a little bit, strike then realize its food and start eating. Also just try grabbing the food and wafting the smell around them imitate life. He sounds like he's keen to eat but for some reason isn't... are they warm enough so that his heat pits are picking it up?

 

[giggles]

Do you have your hatchy in a click clack or what is it being kept in? Was s/he left alone for a couple weeks to settle in? They really need to feel secure. My jungle can still be a pain sometimes. As beans stated above, tapping snake til it strikes and hopefully realises its food or braining work well. It seems pretty usual for mine to not eat the week she sheds, but she's always hungry the day of or after shed! Perhaps leave him til he's shed.

 

[Pythoninfinite]

Generally, feeding problems with Carpet babies are related to temperature, and usually because the temps are too low. You'll need a place where the temp is around 33C. Also, you'll need LONG forceps to offer food to a small and possibly nervous snake. You'll also need to reduce disruption as much as possible before offering food - don't move the tub, don't jiggle it when removing the lid, and don't take the lid right off. Just slide it open a bit and offer the food on the end of your forceps without over-exposing the snake. None of these things may be necessary once the snake is fully established - 6 months or so - but for a nervous hatchling and a novice owner they can make a lot of difference.

Jamie

 

[Beans]

Generally, feeding problems with Carpet babies are related to temperature, and usually because the temps are too low. You'll need a place where the temp is around 33C. Also, you'll need LONG forceps to offer food to a small and possibly nervous snake. You'll also need to reduce disruption as much as possible before offering food - don't move the tub, don't jiggle it when removing the lid, and don't take the lid right off. Just slide it open a bit and offer the food on the end of your forceps without over-exposing the snake. None of these things may be necessary once the snake is fully established - 6 months or so - but for a nervous hatchling and a novice owner they can make a lot of difference.

Jamie

Well said!

 

[Marty75]

Not sure if youtube links are allowed but I found the clip below interesting and may help you with your hatching. There is also a part 2 from this Youtube uploader but I can only include 1 video link in my post.

Marty

[video=youtube;4qdYn_y1pLU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qdYn_y1pLU[/video]

 

[Beans]

Lots of great tips in that video. I used to do the nose rip when my older snake wasn't too interested.

It usually wet her appetite :3

 

[ladydj890]

he ate the same day I posted this thread three fuzzie mice!!! So proud of my bubba!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk