Heat chords in hatcho racks

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Ewan

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So im building a hatcho rack next week. Got the timber and thermo and im just looking at heat chords. My question is will a 9 meter heat chord doubled up on each shelf produce enough heat to heat one end of a 3 litre systema click clack?
 
Yes

BTW John Weigel has a lot to answer for calling hatchies hatchos :D
 
Easily. I have 2 runs heating much bigger tubs than that no worries. You may get away with it only one run.
 
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Depends on tub size, i have a 100 tub rack using a 9mt 80wt on the top 6 rows 5lt tubs with a single line and its getting way to hot so have gone down to smaller wattage, remember its the wattage not the length.

Cheers
Nick
 

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It will depend upon the ambient temperature where the racks are located.
 
Depends on tub size, i have a 100 tub rack using a 9mt 80wt on the top 6 rows 5lt tubs with a single line and its getting way to hot so have gone down to smaller wattage, remember its the wattage not the length.

Cheers
Nick

Dont you use a thermostat with it?

I need to build a rack too, tossing up whether to just run a single line underneath or use two. Just hoping the 9m are long enough though, will be running them on a habistat twin stat.
 
Thanks everyone. Helps a lot. Wokka, the ambient air temps of the room remain a fairly constant 22 to 25 degrees C for most of the year. Except on those cold winter nights it can get below 15.
 
Nigmax thanks for posting up the pics of your hatcho rack. And as I mentioned the tubs are 3 litre tubs. How hot were your tubs getting?
 
Ewan, On those cold winter nights your tubs will be cold. Assuming you want a consistant hot end on the tubs you are better to "over power" the tubs and use a thermostat to cut back the power on hot days so that you will have enough in reserve for cold days. If your ambient temp changes 10 degrees between winter and summer then so will your hot end temps if you dont use a thermostat.
 
Thanks Wokka. Im not too stressed about the tubs being cold during cold nights at this stage. Before next winter hits I will have finished insulating the room which will help control ambient temps. And I will definately be using a thermo. So do you think one coil or two coils (to be sure) with the 80 watt heat chord?
 
I use 12m 100 watts, on 45tubs. Works a treat.

tn_IMG_2299.jpg

You can see how humid the tubs get if you tip a little water, great for hatchies when before their first slough. Wipe the water away and all the humidity is gone.
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80 watts/ 9 meters = 9 watts per meter. If each tub is 20cm wide then thats about 2 watts per tub, which should be ok but only just. assuming they are for hachies temperature is important so I would rather have a surplus not being used rather than be wanting for more. Use metal tape over the top of the heat cord to disperse the heat so you dont get as concentated a hot spot. The easiest way is to set one up without routing and test the temps.
 
Yes

BTW John Weigel has a lot to answer for calling hatchies hatchos :D

Ha ha I know! I can't help my self..... im just so excited about getting my SR wheatbelts!
 
Thanks Wokka. Im not too stressed about the tubs being cold during cold nights at this stage. Before next winter hits I will have finished insulating the room which will help control ambient temps. And I will definately be using a thermo. So do you think one coil or two coils (to be sure) with the 80 watt heat chord?


Just try the one and see how you go. Perhaps leave a groove so if it is no good you can put a second run.
As i said i have 2 runs on mine on much larger tubs and even in winter and the room gets down to 9c it still held temps okay.
 
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