Help... Im running out of ideas =( I'm so confused.
- Thread starter LilMissSnakey
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cement
Very Well-Known Member
Snakes only bite for one of two reasons.
1. food response or
2. defence.
If it bites you and throws coils around and doesn't let go it is food related. Whether feeding more often or larger food will quieten its responses down is debatable.
Its not uncommon for Bredli to be a very defensive snake when young. with perseverance though, over time they will generally calm down and become docile. may take 12-18 mths though.
1. food response or
2. defence.
If it bites you and throws coils around and doesn't let go it is food related. Whether feeding more often or larger food will quieten its responses down is debatable.
Its not uncommon for Bredli to be a very defensive snake when young. with perseverance though, over time they will generally calm down and become docile. may take 12-18 mths though.
Cockney_Red
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As cement says, you probably got a bitey, my 2 nutters took 12 months to settle.....and fuzzy rats for sure!
LilMissSnakey
Not so new Member
I have a jungle gym sort of set up arriving soon with my parents when they visit. I hope to set that up so he can come out when ever he sees fit... It standswaist height off the floor so hell be supervised at all times but its got ladders, branches, rope etc. I hope this may help him chillax and get comfortable.
Do you think it would be suitable to dill out the middle of a branch and ser up a heat cord for the jugnle gym? Or is it too much of a fire risk? I use heat mats in my enclosures so I havent had any experience with the cords. What would be the better option?
I'll try get pics posted soon if I can find any. Its an old stand I used for my hand raised birds, but as they grew older they thought themself too fancy and would oopt over the couch instead. So I've taken the liberty to refashion it so my new babies can have all the fun =D
Do you think it would be suitable to dill out the middle of a branch and ser up a heat cord for the jugnle gym? Or is it too much of a fire risk? I use heat mats in my enclosures so I havent had any experience with the cords. What would be the better option?
I'll try get pics posted soon if I can find any. Its an old stand I used for my hand raised birds, but as they grew older they thought themself too fancy and would oopt over the couch instead. So I've taken the liberty to refashion it so my new babies can have all the fun =D
Sezzzzzzzzz
Very Well-Known Member
if its only going to be an every now and then thing, I wouldnt do the heat cord. I am on new to this, but IMO, it wont hurt them to not have heat for a while.
Are you planning on letting your snake roam free on the stand? I wouldnt even turn my back for 2 seconds. They are quick little things.....
Are you planning on letting your snake roam free on the stand? I wouldnt even turn my back for 2 seconds. They are quick little things.....
slim6y
Almost Legendary
One snake I had - same thing (coastal carpet)...
However she relaxed much more when in a larger tank... and seemed even more relaxed after her first lay....
I can't suggest if there's any rhyme to this reason... Other than this is what happened...
However she relaxed much more when in a larger tank... and seemed even more relaxed after her first lay....
I can't suggest if there's any rhyme to this reason... Other than this is what happened...
LilMissSnakey
Not so new Member
Yea he's pretty quick, ive busted him a few times trying to suss out an escape route. They'll get to roam the stand but only as far as the stand permits. As in, the stand will be situated in the middle of the room in direct view where I can keep an eye on him. But its big enough that he can go up and down the railings and what not until hes at least 6 foot long ish (I know that probs wont take long at all but by then I'm sure I'll have half my study done up for him to roam through. =D
Boidae
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Sounds like your doing everything right, well done.
Dont worry, she WILL outgrow it, it's a trust thing. Alot of snakes will be snappy as hell when little, its because they are scared out of their minds as they probably think you're trying to eat them. Dont give up, keep handling your snake, give him a good amount of food and he will calm down. Snakes will usually calm down naturally when they get bigger anyway, as snakes get bigger they tend to become braver and they wont feel frightened by you.
Dont worry, she WILL outgrow it, it's a trust thing. Alot of snakes will be snappy as hell when little, its because they are scared out of their minds as they probably think you're trying to eat them. Dont give up, keep handling your snake, give him a good amount of food and he will calm down. Snakes will usually calm down naturally when they get bigger anyway, as snakes get bigger they tend to become braver and they wont feel frightened by you.
Asharee133
Very Well-Known Member
two adult mice?? O.O my 15 month old is on small adult rats
B
Bluetongue1
Guest
Food and heat are probably contributing factors as mentioned. Checking the temp of the hot hide compared to the braches might be useful.
Without more details I am uncertain but I suspect that you have a snake that is feeling insecure. Young snakes are very vulnerable to predators and do not like open spaces, such as large enclosures. They are comfortable in small areas with ready access to hiding spots. Transparent enclosures often need to be covered with paint or cardboard for this reason. Hides need to be snug, so they only just fit into in them and therefore feel secure. Arboreal snakes also feel secure on an elevated perch, preferably just below a ceiling.
Different snake species and different individuals vary in their temperaments. A “high strung” snake is one that reacts defensively to minimal stimuli. To change this it needs to be trained to be not so reactive. This can be done through the “man up” method where all behavioural responses to all stimuli are corrected in one. (I do wonder who has to “man up”.) Or you can adopt a one-step at a time approach to gradually altering behavioural responses. Ultimately both methods will likely achieve the same goal. It is up to you to choose the method that sits most comfortably with you. I personally favour the latter and following would be my suggestions…
Having addressed any caging and environmental issues, begin by keeping your interactions to an absolute minimum – basically cleaning and water only. Do not attempt to handle the snake. Bear in mind that handling is not natural to snakes. For a young snake in nature, being held by another animal usually means imminent disaster. So handling a young snake that is already stressed is more likely to compound the problem than alleviate it. However, as Malissa pointed out, they can learn.
Once the snake is looking consistently calm when you access the enclosure, then you can begin. Be patient – the snake will set the pace, not you. Firstly step is to place the snake in deep opaque container, like a plastic rubbish bin, for 10 - 15 mins while you observe from above. Do this three no more often than once every second day until you get little or no defensive reactions. Next step is to place the snake in a clear, shallow container that you can balance on your lap. Again, repeat these sessions until you get little or no defensive reactions. The next step is to place your hands in the container. Allow the snake to come to you to investigate and let it do so without you moving. Once the snake is comfortable investigating you during a session, then gradually begin to increase your interactions until you are at the point of normal handling. Once youcan handle it without incident in the tub, try it without.
You may wish to increase the time duration of handling first or the frequency of sessions per week. Just do one or the other.
A few points…
No jungle gym until you have a confident, comfortable snake to be handled.
Do not handle when coming up to a shed i.e. once eyes go milky until after sloughing.
Do not handle for two to three days following a meal and preferably.
Do not handle is the snake shows obvious signs of not wanting to be disturbed.
Good luck,
Blue
Without more details I am uncertain but I suspect that you have a snake that is feeling insecure. Young snakes are very vulnerable to predators and do not like open spaces, such as large enclosures. They are comfortable in small areas with ready access to hiding spots. Transparent enclosures often need to be covered with paint or cardboard for this reason. Hides need to be snug, so they only just fit into in them and therefore feel secure. Arboreal snakes also feel secure on an elevated perch, preferably just below a ceiling.
Different snake species and different individuals vary in their temperaments. A “high strung” snake is one that reacts defensively to minimal stimuli. To change this it needs to be trained to be not so reactive. This can be done through the “man up” method where all behavioural responses to all stimuli are corrected in one. (I do wonder who has to “man up”.) Or you can adopt a one-step at a time approach to gradually altering behavioural responses. Ultimately both methods will likely achieve the same goal. It is up to you to choose the method that sits most comfortably with you. I personally favour the latter and following would be my suggestions…
Having addressed any caging and environmental issues, begin by keeping your interactions to an absolute minimum – basically cleaning and water only. Do not attempt to handle the snake. Bear in mind that handling is not natural to snakes. For a young snake in nature, being held by another animal usually means imminent disaster. So handling a young snake that is already stressed is more likely to compound the problem than alleviate it. However, as Malissa pointed out, they can learn.
Once the snake is looking consistently calm when you access the enclosure, then you can begin. Be patient – the snake will set the pace, not you. Firstly step is to place the snake in deep opaque container, like a plastic rubbish bin, for 10 - 15 mins while you observe from above. Do this three no more often than once every second day until you get little or no defensive reactions. Next step is to place the snake in a clear, shallow container that you can balance on your lap. Again, repeat these sessions until you get little or no defensive reactions. The next step is to place your hands in the container. Allow the snake to come to you to investigate and let it do so without you moving. Once the snake is comfortable investigating you during a session, then gradually begin to increase your interactions until you are at the point of normal handling. Once youcan handle it without incident in the tub, try it without.
You may wish to increase the time duration of handling first or the frequency of sessions per week. Just do one or the other.
A few points…
No jungle gym until you have a confident, comfortable snake to be handled.
Do not handle when coming up to a shed i.e. once eyes go milky until after sloughing.
Do not handle for two to three days following a meal and preferably.
Do not handle is the snake shows obvious signs of not wanting to be disturbed.
Good luck,
Blue
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mysnakesau
Almost Legendary
Yeah I know, I gotta stop treating mine like babies. They look like they struggle with the adult mice but I am sure they don't. Mine male has gone off his food, although the female is still eating. When I run out of mice I'll get more, and some baby rats.
lol, dont be disappointed if snakey explores it once or twice then moves on to other areas,....i think youll find he has the same reaction as the birds!
edstar
Well-Known Member
Be good if some senior members could make some videos on how to handle snakes like this. Or if anyone could post some youtube links
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