New spotted python not going well

[Spotto]

We have a spotted python and it is not flourishing. We were told that it was a good eater but when we got it home it regurgitated and has not eaten since (about 5 weeks).

It is in a platic repitile tank with a heat mat. Because I could not get the temp above about 26 (measured close to substrate) I added a second mat, but that doesn't seem to have helped.

Python (about 8 months old) just lies as close to mat as possible. If disturbed will strike out. We have tried pinkies and hoppers, but no luck. It will come & flick tongue at prey, but then ignore. I am worried it will die if it doesn't feed soon.

 

[Ramsayi]

Your temps are too cool.Get that fixed before attempting to feed the snake.

 

[Spotto]

Any idea on how - have a towel over 3/4 of vents to stop heat escaping and have 2 matts. Everyone I have spoken to says that this should be enough to heat the tank, but does not seem to be. Lights indicate that the mats are heating nearly continuously?

Any ideas?

 

[Cheyne_Jones]

As Rams said, you need to have an area in its enclosure that is around 30 or so degrees where he can warm up and get his metabolism going. Be sure to provide a cool area where he can retreat to if needed aswell though.

If he is healthy otherwise I have little doubt that when you get the temps right he will begin eating soon after.

 

[Cheyne_Jones]

Get a higher wattage heat matt and you will be right. A 20w heat matt connected to a thermostat will get up to temp easily.

 

[shellfisch]

As said by Ramsayi, you need to sort your temps out as a matter of priority, and that may mean re-thinking what you are keeping your Spotted in.
When you say 'plastic reptile tank', do you mean one of those hard plastic types with the handle? If so, it may be difficult to keep that type of tank warm. Have a look at this link, this type of set up is commonly used for young snakes.

Guide to build a click-clack

Your Spotted will not die soon if it does not eat, they can go quite long periods without eating, but you do need to get your temps a bit higher before trying again.

Michelle

 

[lithopian]

I had the same problem Spotto- my heat mat does get to 33 degrees, but i had a problem becuase the bottom of the click clack is not uniform with the heat mat- the one i have is supposed to be stuck to the bottom and air flow underneath the otherside of the heat mat..so when it gets dark and the day temperature drops, so does the click clack's temps... are you in perth by any chance?? it's been cold here anyway- i'm buying a 20W heat mat from ebay RIGHT NOW and hoping that it will fix my problems! Good luck! an 8mth old should be ok without 6 weeks of feedings if it was in nice condition before you got it- they wont eat if theyre too cold becuase they dont have the warmth to digest the food. Hes just being smart... get that heat mat a little higher. Also- what substrate have you got and how thick is it? what i would do is get a hide with no bottom, dig it into the substrate and lay a papertowel underneat it- so hes closer to the bottom. See how that goes. Maybe your substrate's too thick and the heatmat cant heat through it.

 

[Octane]

When a snake is not eating there is usually something that is causing it. You have already identified a problem yourself with the temperature. The first thing would be fix the temperature to be around 31 to 33 degrees at the hot end and 26 at the cold.

A photo would be a real help to see how you have set the enclosure up. That way forum members can give suggestions on areas to improve or change for the better.

Cheers
Octane

 

[pythrulz]

Hi Spotto as already stated your temps are way to low should be 31-32 hot end room temp at the cool end if your having trouble reaching that heat put the probe as close as possible to the heat mat what are you using for substrate might be to thick

 

[REPTILIAN-KMAN]

i to in the past used with hatchlings a hard plastic reptile tubs like your and the heat mats in which i bought them for around $89.95 each to failed me badly i took them back got a different brand and still had the same heat issues with them, so i went to a junk shop and i looked around and found a desk top lamp with a ceramic globe holder inside it ( check first look into the lamp and see if its white /cream ceramic ) this is what you want , as the plastic black globe fittings will over heat and melt, this lamp cost me $15.00 only and now i use them on all my hard plastic enclosures, be careful not too close as this will melt the plastic of ur enclosure but it will bring up the temps as i have jungle hatchling they love being up high, use only ceramic globe fittings ever as ceramic can withstand high temps Ceramics generally can withstand very high temperatures such as temperatures that range from 1,000 °C to 1,600 °C (1,800 °F to 3,000 °F). but i only use mine when i am at home.heat mats are the worse and i hate them.

PM if you want the brand. i may even be able to get one for you as the shop is 3 mins from my work if your intrested. but u pay postage.

 

[Spotto]

Photo attached

Thanks for all the replies - you guys are awesome!

I think I will get a 20 watt matt - more power!

The substrate is "pet bedding" which is paper based granules. The spotted buries itself down to the floor in these. I assume to keep warm. We have 2 hides one in the warm end and one in the unheated end. He rarely goes to the unheated end.

I think that I need to put in a better substrate if I do use a 20 watt mat to make a separation so he doesn't get burnt.

Will post a reply if this works.

Thanks again.

 

[redbellybite]

Mate change your setup that tank is what your problem is ...place your little one in to a plastic container like a tuppaware food type ..most click clacks are made out of these and you will find a big improvement in your heating as well as your snake ...

 

[Cheyne_Jones]

I would also get rid of that substrate, plain old paper towel is the best for hatchies IMO.

 

[Sock Puppet]

I have used similar setups for my young snakes, however I was using bigger tubs (as they were larger species than anteresia).

I use 13W Microclimate heat mats, controlled by a Microclimate 100 thermostat, & consistently get 30-33C at the warm end.
This was all on different substrates, aspen, Kitty's Crumble, Breeders Choice, no issues with any of them.

Set up same as yours, ie: (in order from bottom to top) styrofoam, heatmat, 3mm MDF, enclosure (this is as per Microclimate manufacturer's instructions).

Use a non-contact thermometer to take temps & set up accordingly, ignore the dial setting on the thermostat.
It is usually inaccurate compared to the actual temp, usually because of probe location & other common variables.