Please Critique Click Clack Set Up

Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum

Help Support Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.

coastal_Cleo

Not so new Member
Joined
May 22, 2017
Messages
22
Reaction score
8
Location
South Coast, NSW
20170523_175739.jpg 20170523_175644.jpg 20170523_165731.jpg 20170522_212219.jpg

I've just purchased a coastal carpet python, he/she's roughly 7 months old and about 75cm long.

I'd appreciate some input on my set up. I have a click clack set up inside a larger enclosure, currently using a heat light and heat pad attached to a thermostat for heating. I have the thermostat probe inside the click clack on top of the heat pad and the thermometer probe next to that. The thermostat is currently set to 30°C and the thermometer probe is reading 31-34°C in the hot end (currently at 32.6). When I place the thermometer probe in the cool end it reads between 25-29°C (lower temps late night & early morning).

As you can see from the photos the click clack is on top of a basket and books to raise it closer to the heat lamp (I'm on the nsw south coast and it can get pretty cold here).

My question is would you set it up differently and if so how? Any advice/tips would be appreciated.
 
Last edited:
I have a very similar plastic box home I'm using. The only difference between them is the three sides and bottom is blacked out.
Don't see that being any drama tho but some privacy is always nice.
A concerning thought for me would be, how much heat the light is putting out? I don't know too much about lighting or what's considered ideal - being the lights red firstly is that okay? - and if the heat mat is keeping the enclosure warm enough would the light be needed? If it's not spreading the heat towards the cool end i couldn't see it being any trouble
 
Last edited:
I personally don't use lights for babies, heat mats or cords under a third of the click clack work fine.

Like Manning said, a concern would be the light being too big for the container and heating the cool side.

Lastly, red lights generally aren't necessary for pythons, ceramics are usually the way to go.

This is all just my experience, i do have the luxury of living in Qld where it doesn't get that cold so things would differ region to region.

You're definitely on the right track though!
 
You'll get a better heat gradient if you used a heat mat or cord under a third of it, rather than the overhead light.
 
Thanks so much for your input!

The red light is what was sold to me when I bought the enclosure. I believe it's safe as I was very clear the set up was for a young python. Now that I know I will definitely be replacing it with a ceramic heat bulb!

Thanks again for the feedback :)

You'll get a better heat gradient if you used a heat mat or cord under a third of it, rather than the overhead light.

Are you suggesting I would be better off turning off the light and only using the heat mat?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks so much for your input!

The red light is what was sold to me when I bought the enclosure. I believe it's safe as I was very clear the set up was for a young python. Now that I know I will definitely be replacing it with a ceramic heat bulb!

Thanks again for the feedback :)

No problem,like mentioned above, you could just lose the bulb completely and just use your mat or cord until she's big enough for a larger enclosure.

Ceramics are great for adult pythons and while the coloured lights won't hurt them, you just don't need them. Babies don't need lights at all

All my babies that are in tubs are just on mats and ive found them so handy in getting the gradient spot on.
 
Last edited:
If the enclosure is run on a thermostat, a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) will last a lot longer than a globe. The on-off nature of the thermostat shortens the life of the globes.
 
Those red bulbs are so finicky anyhow. They don't like to be turned on and off frequently like others have said, and even if you leave them on you'll find yourself replacing them anywhere between 2 to 5 months. I guarantee you also that if you've had one on constantly for a while and turn it off overnight, it'll blow after a day or two after switching it back on. But, some suppliers can't keep enough of them in stock because they are usually the first thing that comes to mind for new players when getting into reptiles. I'm convinced the red ones on the market are no different to the incandescent party globes you can buy. Just 20 times the price! Anyhow that's my two cents worth, and for the record, yes, I do still use the red ones in some of my enclosures!
 
Your click clack enclosure would be too warm coastals like the cool as much as they like heat. Has the snake fed for you yet if it won't I would buy a small heat mat or if you want to use the light set a larger tub with perches under it and make sure the hatchie has a much cooler end to retreat to. A light of that size over a tub that small you will really struggle to establish a proper thermal gradient
 
personally I don't like red globes,I think they are total garbage.Some people claim reptiles can't see red ,this has been proven false.While your juvenile is in a click clack you don't need heat light as well as heat mat/cable;Some people never use heat lamps but keep their snakes in click clacks their entire life with nothing but a heat mat/cable.
 
Your click clack enclosure would be too warm coastals like the cool as much as they like heat. Has the snake fed for you yet if it won't I would buy a small heat mat or if you want to use the light set a larger tub with perches under it and make sure the hatchie has a much cooler end to retreat to. A light of that size over a tub that small you will really struggle to establish a proper thermal gradient

Thanks for your input.

I haven't had any issues with feeding. She is currently happily basking on top of her rock/hide in the warm end after a feed last night.

Since posting this I've removed the basket and books that were underneath the click clack but still have the light on heating the whole enclosure as some nights it can get down to 10°C in the house.

With this set up I'm getting 31-34°C in the hot end and 21-24°C in the cool end. I will be replacing the light with a ceramic heat bulb but just haven't had a chance to do so just yet.
 
That's a better gradient at least. Don't be in a hurry to put your python into the big enclosure; wait until it looks cramped in the tub. And when you do make the move, make sure there are plenty of hides, some at the warm and cool ends.
 
It seems like a lot of energy being wasted for a small container. A heat mat should be adequate. Sensing probes should be secured so they cant be knocked and therefore give the wrong reading which can result in cooking the snake.
 
It seems like a lot of energy being wasted for a small container. A heat mat should be adequate. Sensing probes should be secured so they cant be knocked and therefore give the wrong reading which can result in cooking the snake.

I've read that it is best to have the thermostat probe on the base of the enclosure placed on top of the heat mat (please correct me if I'm wrong). How would you suggest I secure the probes to have a more accurate reading?
 
You don't need two heat sources, youre just heating the air in the big enclosure and wasting money that way.

Click clack is fine to be heated with a heat mat under 1/3rd of the tub (I'd personally put the heat mat between two ceramic tiles, not have it on books or anything else, purely for safety reasons. I secure my thermostat probe with electrical tape on the (inside) bottom of the tub, then place paper towel over it. You have to be careful with tape of any kind, in case it comes off and sticks to the snake (then you risk it ripping off scales) but I've never had any problem with electrical tape as it isn't very sticky and just holds the probe in place.
Even if it gets down to 10 degrees in your house at night, the click clack will be nice and warm, providing belly heat at the temp you have the thermostat set at, and at that age I'd be providing 24/7 heat.
 
You don't need two heat sources, youre just heating the air in the big enclosure and wasting money that way.

Click clack is fine to be heated with a heat mat under 1/3rd of the tub (I'd personally put the heat mat between two ceramic tiles, not have it on books or anything else, purely for safety reasons. I secure my thermostat probe with electrical tape on the (inside) bottom of the tub, then place paper towel over it. You have to be careful with tape of any kind, in case it comes off and sticks to the snake (then you risk it ripping off scales) but I've never had any problem with electrical tape as it isn't very sticky and just holds the probe in place.
Even if it gets down to 10 degrees in your house at night, the click clack will be nice and warm, providing belly heat at the temp you have the thermostat set at, and at that age I'd be providing 24/7 heat.

Thanks. I'll give it a go with the ceramic tiles and securing the probe like you've suggested.

Can I use ceramic tiles purchased from Bunnings or do I have to get a specific type?
 
Thanks. I'll give it a go with the ceramic tiles and securing the probe like you've suggested.

Can I use ceramic tiles purchased from Bunnings or do I have to get a specific type?

Any old tiles you have are fine, I had some second hand slate laying around at home for one tub, next lot I managed to score some spares from a friend who bought a heap from Bunnings. :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top