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Trouble is the info on the pdf is very scant in that regard.Was hoping that Barney might set one up and take some readings at different distances with the same ambient temp.
 
Will be interesting how these perform. I was always planning to convert over to these from bulbs. Plan on building a few 1200x600x800 for my bredli this month so might give them a go.

Would be keen to hear any feedback from people who have used this type. I know the ones that herp shop used to sell, now animal attraction sell, work a treat with 1200x600x600 enclosures.
 
Trouble is the info on the pdf is very scant in that regard.Was hoping that Barney might set one up and take some readings at different distances with the same ambient temp.

I know he has been doing some testing but I am not sure what data he has collected. Heat is not like UV though as it is much more affected by the surrounding "heating" conditions so the data collected is at best a guide. Habistat have probably stated it about as strongly as it can be stated in the data sheet:

A direct beam of 25cm will heat a hot spot to
about 40°C. At a greater distance of say,
50cm, the heater would heat a medium sized
vivarium to an overall temperature of about
28°C. In a cold room it may struggle to do
this; while in hot conditions the chances of
overheating exist.
To prevent overheating, the use of a thermostat
like a HabiStat™ is always recommended.
 
Is anyone selling the Habistat Reptile Radiator in Australia?
The PDF on the Habistat website doesn't give any indication of the demensions/size of the panel... that I could see. They look like a good product though, I love Habistat stuff, have their dimming thermostats and moon switch and have been running faultlessly for ages. It's clear that they are a well made product
 
Is anyone selling the Habistat Reptile Radiator in Australia?
The PDF on the Habistat website doesn't give any indication of the demensions/size of the panel... that I could see. They look like a good product though, I love Habistat stuff, have their dimming thermostats and moon switch and have been running faultlessly for ages. It's clear that they are a well made product

these guys are selling them now.. http://www.animalattraction.com.au/...t/Itemid,40/page,shop.browse/category_id,178/
 
Is anyone selling the Habistat Reptile Radiator in Australia?
The PDF on the Habistat website doesn't give any indication of the demensions/size of the panel... that I could see. They look like a good product though, I love Habistat stuff, have their dimming thermostats and moon switch and have been running faultlessly for ages. It's clear that they are a well made product

I believe Herptrader has just covered this exact topic over the last few pages ;)
 
I have been useing the Habistat Reptile Radiator (heat pannel) from the herp shop for about 4 weeks now, and I think they are great. I have them in 900mm x 600mm x 600mm cages with the hot end set at 30 and the cool end sitting at 23, and even though it's only 12 degrees in the room at the moment the cages are holding the temps well and still not running flat out. For a 75watt heat pannle these thing produce a lot of heat.
 
I use heat panels made by Thermofilm in Melbourne. They are the same idea, but bigger. Beats the hell out of bulbs!!

I use Habistat dimming thermostats with them & they have operated faultlessly so far. I liked them so much that I bought another 6 of them for my larger cabinets. I'll be trying some of these Habistat 75watt units from Brian to put in my smaller cabinets.

Col J
 
Just had a look at the link for animal attraction & their 50W units are $110ea plus freight. Thermofilm 160W units are $100 delivered anywhere in Oz.
 
How hot does the surface get on these panels? I believe you can actually hold an open palm on the Pro-Heat panels when they are at full load (albeit for a short period). Can you do the same with these?
 
How hot does the surface get on these panels? I believe you can actually hold an open palm on the Pro-Heat panels when they are at full load (albeit for a short period). Can you do the same with these?

The Herp Shop has had special cages made for these panels which look really good.

That said because of the way these panels get roof mounted I would not consider a cage necessary. For years bare light bulbs have been successfully used which get "too hot to touch". One of the big advantages of the heat panels is that it is hard for animals to use them as a perch.
 
Hey Trader, would one of these be sufficient for a 120X60X60cm enclosure in cold wintery Vic?
was considering building a ledge in the hot end 2/3's of the way up and mounting a panel underneath. this way the ledge would get warm and the heat panel would be a bit closer to the floor, thereby creating more of a hot spot.
 
My guess is yes but I do not have the the first hand experience.

Have a look at Lark's post, a few posts back. That is based on first hand experience!

As for the ledge idea I think it is good. I try to set up "hollow logs" or at least pretend ones suspended from the ceiling with provides a range of options, including seclusion inside the log at different heights/temperatures.

Brian at the Herp Shop, (the Herp Shop and Herp Trader are actually quite separate but we do get along and communicate often - and I am happy to spruik the Herp Shop's products) can probably provide more information. You may wish to call and leave a message, including phone number on 03) 9363 6841 or send him an email as [email protected] (again, include a phone number).

Hey Trader, would one of these be sufficient for a 120X60X60cm enclosure in cold wintery Vic?
was considering building a ledge in the hot end 2/3's of the way up and mounting a panel underneath. this way the ledge would get warm and the heat panel would be a bit closer to the floor, thereby creating more of a hot spot.
 
Col , lets compare apples with aplles. The animal attraction unit are 50 watt with a surface temp safety set at 80 Degrees. A bi metal strip then opens and surface temps dont go over 80. they are made of a kevlar material and extremely rare to blow. My understanding is that the higher wattage units do not have a thermal cutout.Thus a tsta failure or otherwise turns your enclosure into an oven. I have been using a 50 watt unit for a few months now and have alight 60 watt night lite for winter backup.
 
Gday. I use the pro heat panels from the states. 55w 240 volt, It is cheaper here to buy the 240 volt unit then to buy a voltage adapter.
These panels can get hot to touch but they don't have the capacity to burn skin on contact, you feel its hot and move off it.
Temps- temps measured are with a habistat pulse proportional thermostat holding 26 degrees in the middle of a 600 x 600 x 600.
1. surface temperature = 68 degree
2. 150mm below = 35deg
3. 300mm away = 25-26 deg
4 floor temp away from influence of panel in cage below = 24 deg.

I really like these units and recommend them. they are bolted up to the roof/ ceiling of enclosure and the snakes have no "toe hold" anywhere so cannot constantly be touching them. I have seen them nose up to it but it does not burn or worry the animal at all and they are quite content to lie on branches below the panels.
 
I was going to start a new thread but on second thought this may be a better place to ask in so as to help keep information in one place...

...anyway, for those of you using heat panels already, is there any thermostat types that you have found don't work well with them? I guess what I am trying to find out is are they compatible with dimming thermostats (I have a spare one somewhere, hehe) or should I look at running it off of a different type of thermostat instead?

Thanks, Jan
 
Hi Zuyax. I use microclimate B1 dimming thermos with my pro-products heat panels. They work extremely well. The only ones I would stay away from are cheap on/off thermostats. Hope this helps.
 
I make my own heat panels from heat cords of various wattages depending on the size of enclosure I want to heat.

I weave the cord of whatever wattage I need onto 25mm x 25mm welded mesh, frame it with narrow timber battens, cover with black or green shadecloth (50% or less, this is very heat resistant, and doesn't come into actual contact with the heatcord anyway) and attached either on the ceiling or the wall of the enclosure.

The open structure of these panels provides very good circulation (no hot spots develop) and the shadecloth never gets very hot, so it doesn't matter if the snake lies in directt contact with it for a period of time.

I have been doing this for 6 years now, have never had one fail, never had a burn, or any problems whatsoever. Because the cords are waterproof the panels can be misted without fear of shorting them out, and the shadecloth holds a bit of moisture for a few minutes until it evaporates, ensure a quick rise in humidity. I do this especially when I see or expect a snake to shed.

So... you can make your own very effective heat panels for less than half the cost of those commercially available in Oz...

Anybody who is interested - I have some photos of the process, pm me with your email addresses and I'll shoot some to you (not sure about posting photos here!)
Made one today 50w heat cord working GREAT!!!!
 
...anyway, for those of you using heat panels already, is there any thermostat types that you have found don't work well with them? I guess what I am trying to find out is are they compatible with dimming thermostats (I have a spare one somewhere, hehe) or should I look at running it off of a different type of thermostat instead?

Hi Zuyax,

I use Habistat 600W dimmers. I have quite a few heat panels now & would never go back to lights as a single heat source. (Also use a I/R bulb in some as a second basking spot.)

I use a habistat dimmer on each bank of three, which have air gaps between each cabinet so I don't get hotter temps in the top deck. This is wired in series through a IMIT wall thermo which is set as an emergency cut-off in each cabinet. That way if there is a major failure in the "master" cabinet then the imit will cut off heat in each unit if temps get too high. Nothing like peace of mind!

The IMITs will last forever 'cos they will never reach cut-off temp under normal circumstances & therefore the points won't arc & burn.

Col J.
 
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