Jungle Python issues

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many snakes have gone longer than 53 days without eating - its not a cause for concern..and its normal....as long as they maintain good condition etc..
Who is to say when a snake should and shoudnt eat.... As herp keepers we just try to maintain regular feeding for ease of care...in the end its up to the snake when it wants to eat.
In the wild they only eat when food is around ( not on a regular basis ).
hatchies in particular can be finicky eaters - some taking longer to eat properly than others..
At least you do have a feeding record.

Most Jungles are smaller than diamonds - I know all ours were...
 
She has only had it a few days. Leave it undisturbed for a week and try again. If the breeder has left the mouse in the enclosure for it to feed undisturbed it may be a shy feeder and what you have explained is nothing unusual.
 
Hi ZOOJAS,

Ive got the temperature probe under the enclosure on the heat mat 2nd picture the skinny black cord

temps inside enclosure may well be different if thats the case. all my temps are read inside the click clack. Due to thermal conductivity of the plastic the inside temps may be lower
thus why i said 'can by', not 'because your python doesnt tongue flick, its definitely sick'.

when she's in her enclosure, mine generally doesnt tongue flick at all, but when she's out, she does it all the time.
yeah i wasnt having a go or such but seen many new keepers jump straight to the "Ive been sold a sick animal" when it could be other factors causing the issue
 
Yeah i understand that it may just be him taking a while to settle in but i just want to be aware of other reasons why he may not be eating etc..... so i can keep an eye on him and ensure nothing is going wrong. Yeah i will leave him alone and see how he goes over the next few days
 
Hi ZOOJAS,

Ive got the temperature probe under the enclosure on the heat mat 2nd picture the skinny black cord
the temp probe needs to be inside the click clack on the floor / paper towel , in the basking- hot area. as the temps will be diffrent if the probe is under the click clack .
 
ok I have read the whole thread.
I recently bought home a snake the same age as yours and litle bigger, however too small for his age as yours is. the breeder admited to me that he hadnt fed him as often as he should have and that the feeding had been once a week/fortnight. Ok all snakes are different as well. Our first snake settled in really qucikly so we thought that Alvin would settle in just as fast (being half brother to our first snake) WRONG he really should have been left more than a week before we started handling him. So firstly the snake must be left to have some time to settle in. I know people say they cannot hear but they do pick up all the different vibrations in the house.
Next you need to check the temps in the click clack...temperature is everything and the probe for the thermostat must be inside the click clack. You need to temp test cool and hot ends. it needs to be 32 in the hot.....26 in the cool end. If the temps are wrong the snake wil go off its food.

Now the way you offer the food it really important. We worked out with our snakes our breeder must have just held the rat in front of the snakes nose.....as the first time I fed my snakes and wiggled it around the snake didnt know what to do. So how you offer the food is important.

Now we have since also found out Alvin is fussy about food size....so we have started all over again. I am demand feeding him with pinkies and working up gradually in size...so maybe try something smaller first...better to be eating something rather than nothing. So think about temporarily offering something smaller just to get him going

Also your click clack looks very very small. Have a look on the forum there is a thread...how to build a click clack....read it carefully it will give you a really good idea as to what your jungle needs. they are an arboreal snake so when he has settled in...he will need a dowel to perch on and this is a good thing...as when they are hunting it is a good way to know when they are hungry.

Most importantly....you might waste a lot of ratties....but keep going dont give up and remember...temperature is everything !!

Elizabeth
 
should be feeding weekly with a young python like that. stimulate your pythons feeding response, don't leave a rodent in the enclosure thawed out - they prey on warm blooded, not cold dead rodents. if you offer the rodent thawed out in hot water, the rodent will light up like a christmas tree to the python, mimick a live rodent and it may strike, however I would let him settle in for a week before offering as your python does not have a good feeding history and not regular.
 
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