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Thanks BeZaKa, but I'm hoping somebody will post on the forum so the information is there for everybody to learn. Maybe we should start a new Vivarium how to thread so we are not hijacking this one.
Ill keep an eye out;) for the viv thread. Unfortunately its a topic that is relatively simple but the pet trade can over complicate with additional things you NEED to buy. Keeping the quality of the water decent even with large amounts of ammonia being generated via fecal matter deposits can be handled by a decently set up canister filter which doesn't need to cost the earth.
 
Thanks BeZaKa, but I'm hoping somebody will post on the forum so the information is there for everybody to learn. Maybe we should start a new Vivarium how to thread so we are not hijacking this one.

i have no problem with the discussion in this thread, makes for a good compilation of info
though a vivarium and paludarium thread would be great to see as well
 
Since there are no objections to spreading information through this thread I will continue to clarify things here. I'm currently using a canister filter in a 4' x 18"x 18" tank, which is only 1/3 filled with water. I drilled the holes a few inches above the water level to ensure I wouldn't get leakage if the pump failed. I find that the water is slow to filter through (lucky there isn't much water to filter). Where is the best place to drill the holes for the out going and incoming water pipes and should I use a bulk head? What is the advantage of using a bulk head? I'm currently setting up a new paludarium so this information is coming at a vital time.
 
Use a non return valve purchased from your LPS they are a couple of bucks this will stop water flow backwards in the event of a power failure. Will post more details later, a bit under the pump at the moment (no pun intended):D
 
Since there are no objections to spreading information through this thread I will continue to clarify things here. I'm currently using a canister filter in a 4' x 18"x 18" tank, which is only 1/3 filled with water. I drilled the holes a few inches above the water level to ensure I wouldn't get leakage if the pump failed. I find that the water is slow to filter through (lucky there isn't much water to filter). Where is the best place to drill the holes for the out going and incoming water pipes and should I use a bulk head? What is the advantage of using a bulk head? I'm currently setting up a new paludarium so this information is coming at a vital time.
Bulkheads can be used when running a mini reef filtration system. Excellent system great long term but pricey initial setup.

Regarding the placement of holes, the crucial factor here is the outlet and inlet placement rather than placement of said holes. Inlet should be nearer the bottom of the vivarium outlet nearer the top of the water line, setup to suit personal preference. A cost effective way around it all would be a canister filter running between 600 to 2400 litres per hour (I always prefer over kill so 2400 but most canister filters come with flow control so you can adjust to suit. The most important thing with the canister filter is that it has 3 to 4 media baskets so you get more room for filter wool to clean and things like bio balls to build the benificial bacteria. I usually run two baskets bio balls and 2 baskets filter wool of different grades. Cannister filters on ebay can be as cheap as $50 running up into the $1000 mark which will have built in UV, heater, thermostat and able to analyse all your water parameters.

Now with this basic set up allow to run for 4 weeks with NO WATER CHANGES (spot cleaning out poo is ok:D). The bacteria needs this time to establish, flushing large amounts of fresh water will kill of the good bacteria. After this initial period you can change out water at 1/3 capacity every 4 weeks or so. To test water buy a basic ph test kit $20 roughly which checks for ammonia nitrate/nitrite being the most important. I could waffle on for hours so I will stop now. One last thing, the bio balls as mentioned before get rinsed off in the established water once every 3 months to remove gunk but don't rinse in fresh water. Hope this helps a little.
 
Now with this basic set up allow to run for 4 weeks with NO WATER CHANGES (spot cleaning out poo is ok:D). The bacteria needs this time to establish, flushing large amounts of fresh water will kill of the good bacteria. After this initial period you can change out water at 1/3 capacity every 4 weeks or so. To test water buy a basic ph test kit $20 roughly which checks for ammonia nitrate/nitrite being the most important. I could waffle on for hours so I will stop now. One last thing, the bio balls as mentioned before get rinsed off in the established water once every 3 months to remove gunk but don't rinse in fresh water. Hope this helps a little.
When you say fresh water do you mean tap water with chlorine or would tank water do the same?
 
Great piece of information there. Thanks for sharing.
Bulkheads can be used when running a mini reef filtration system. Excellent system great long term but pricey initial setup.

Regarding the placement of holes, the crucial factor here is the outlet and inlet placement rather than placement of said holes. Inlet should be nearer the bottom of the vivarium outlet nearer the top of the water line, setup to suit personal preference. A cost effective way around it all would be a canister filter running between 600 to 2400 litres per hour (I always prefer over kill so 2400 but most canister filters come with flow control so you can adjust to suit. The most important thing with the canister filter is that it has 3 to 4 media baskets so you get more room for filter wool to clean and things like bio balls to build the benificial bacteria. I usually run two baskets bio balls and 2 baskets filter wool of different grades. Cannister filters on ebay can be as cheap as $50 running up into the $1000 mark which will have built in UV, heater, thermostat and able to analyse all your water parameters.

Now with this basic set up allow to run for 4 weeks with NO WATER CHANGES (spot cleaning out poo is ok:D). The bacteria needs this time to establish, flushing large amounts of fresh water will kill of the good bacteria. After this initial period you can change out water at 1/3 capacity every 4 weeks or so. To test water buy a basic ph test kit $20 roughly which checks for ammonia nitrate/nitrite being the most important. I could waffle on for hours so I will stop now. One last thing, the bio balls as mentioned before get rinsed off in the established water once every 3 months to remove gunk but don't rinse in fresh water. Hope this helps a little.
 
When you say fresh water do you mean tap water with chlorine or would tank water do the same?

Sorry Andy. When rinsing the media (bio balls) take about a half bucket of water from the vivarium/aquarium and rinse the bio balls of in this. Dont use water from any other source as the bacteria are use to the temp and water quality from the vivarium. Drastic changes...tap water. Will kill them.
 
Sorry Andy. When rinsing the media (bio balls) take about a half bucket of water from the vivarium/aquarium and rinse the bio balls of in this. Dont use water from any other source as the bacteria are use to the temp and water quality from the vivarium. Drastic changes...tap water. Will kill them.
I have always done that with my small tank setups because that was what I was told to do but was just curious about other sources like watertank water as it had no chemicals but your explanation has explained the reasoning well. I was not aware that the bacteria would be that sensitive.
Cheers
Andy
 
A variation in temps and or chemicals in the water can knock off the bacteria. There are chemicals out there that speed up the whole beneficial bacteria process but i rather hang on to my money and I know this way works;)
 
I used to use stress zyme on my ciclid tanks.
The Seachem Prime is the one i used when doing water changes and adding freshwater (this though has nothing to do with the bacteria side of things) The Prime detoxifies nitrate and nitrites, removes ammonia, chlorine and chloramines and apparently provides a slime coat for the fish. I primarily had/have the africans/malawi and Tanganyikans, some americans.
 
I used API stress coat which treated the water and gave the fish the coating and API stress zyme to add beneficial bacteria. Early on I tried Americans with Africans which did not work so pretty much went to just Africans.
 
I'd address the water/bacterial problem by plumbing an external sump tank + filter system under it, say a 50 liter tank with a few snails in it.
 
I wont hog this thread with fish talk but this pertains to the bacteria side of things. I found that if you "age" the water eg let tap/tank water sit in a container for 3 to 4 days most of the chlorine etc evaporates off. With an aged tank (read has been running for 6 plus weeks) the ammonia, chlorines etc are really not an issue as the beneficial bacteria take care of most everything. This is why i over filter everything (2 canister filters per tank) so if i clean one filter i know the other filters bacteria can handle it.
 
the roof is covered by wire mesh, and the wooden top piece does not have a top to it, allowing air to flow freely
the plants are from an area where they would remain wet for their entire lives, so the moisture wont be a problem
i should state, i am no expert on aquascaping, so i may not have all the answers to your questions and issues, but i can assure you that the guy who made the enclosure is an expert in the field, having done so for about 10 years, i fully trust his knowledge and judgement
he has similar setups in his shop in carnegie which are also misted regularly and wet all day. they are thriving and have been for years now

i really must stress that this isnt a situation like some of the current custom reptile enclosure builders, who are basically just cabinet makers, adrian has worked in this field for a very long time and really knows what hes doing

I remain to be convinced that the plants you have in there will remain healthy if they are wet all the time, but that's a separate issue to the matter of a suitable environment for your GTP. A constantly wet enclosure, indeed one that is not dry MOST of the time, is a very unhealthy environment for a GTP.

Jamie
 
I wont hog this thread with fish talk but this pertains to the bacteria side of things. I found that if you "age" the water eg let tap/tank water sit in a container for 3 to 4 days most of the chlorine etc evaporates off. With an aged tank (read has been running for 6 plus weeks) the ammonia, chlorines etc are really not an issue as the beneficial bacteria take care of most everything. This is why i over filter everything (2 canister filters per tank) so if i clean one filter i know the other filters bacteria can handle it.

Chlorine will evaporate, chloramine will not which is lethal to fish and bacteria. Bacteria are also not capable of handling chlorine, infact it kills them. The bacteria will handle ammonia generated by the waste and I believe a suitably sized canister will handle weekly/fortnightly 40g waste deposits. I'm not experienced with whether it's suitable for a GTP or not but I don't believe the water will stagnate and I know a canister is far superior at removing nitrogenous waste then most slow growing species of plants - you would need lots of plants and fast growing species to handle the same amount of waste a canister will.
 
I remain to be convinced that the plants you have in there will remain healthy if they are wet all the time, but that's a separate issue to the matter of a suitable environment for your GTP. A constantly wet enclosure, indeed one that is not dry MOST of the time, is a very unhealthy environment for a GTP.

Jamie

the upper half of the enclosure is currently maintaining a humidity around 60% and does not get directly wet. the misters have been aimed down to ensure this
 
A constant 60% is still pretty high, but... oh well....

Jamie
 
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