My updated Beardie enclosure
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Adam
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That is a cool enclosure you have him in!!! Heaps of room to run around. Heaps of room for a friend or 3 as well. Looks great!!!
when two or more beardies are housed together, there is always a dominance issue, one animal gets the best baskign spots food, and seems to harrass the other, layign on top of each other is a sign of dominance they hold each other down, it often looks like ther just laying on each other, the smaller animal or usually the female in a male-female cage mate system usually gets the stress and the whilst the other is dominant, stress can lead to a low immune system and other problems, over breedign with a male-females cage partnership lowers a females helath and life expectancy..
he looks VERY small for his age, a 3 and a half month shoudl be around 10-12 inches, he still looks about 7-8 how much do you feed him and how often, what greens? and what suppliments.. this is a growth chart of dragons who are fed three times day, supplimented apropriately, and fed NUTRITIONAL GREENS liek the greens on http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html here is the growth chart http://www.dachiu.com/care/charts.html
at three months he should be eating between 80-100+ apropriately sized feeders per day, spread between three feeding, as well as veg like endive collard and squash.. lettuces are crap, little nutriton and mostly water, brocolli and spinahce bind to calcium, speaking of calcium when you suppliment, of the thre feeds a day, one should be dusted, four days a week the REP-CAL calcium with D3 and one day a week the multivitamin.. at a ratio of 5:1 one feed a day 6 days a week.. when he get older and is full sized, you can drop it down to a ratio of 3:1 or 2:1
feeders, you should feed crickets or roaches from herp shop, or home bred, an apropriate feedign size is this http://www.reptilerooms.com/forumtopic-8182.html and you should not feed mealworms as they are high in fat, have little nutrition protein or vitamins, have a hard chiten shell that can cause impacton, and death..
glad to see your using repti-carpet, or fake grass.. its safer than calcium based substrates, that claim to be 'edible' but not 'digestible' they can cause serious impaction and thus death, walnut substrate can also cause impaction and seriosue imfliction and slice up your beardies intestines, like on here (WARNIGN GRAPHIC IMAGES OF A BEARDIE DISECTION) http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
it is much safer to stick to repticarpet, non-adhesive shelf liner or slate tile.. non particle substrates are safer and much easier to keep clean, and no worries about impaction..
studies have been done on reptiglows and other compact forms of UVB, and the longetivity and rate the expend UVB is minimal and does not last evry long, most run out within the first month or two, http://www.uvguide.co.uk/compactlamps.htm your better off getting a reptisun 10.0 and getting him within 4-6 inches of it http://www.uvguide.co.uk/fluorescenttuberesults.htm or getting an MVB MEGARAY, which is the BEST UVB source on the market from http://www.reptileuv.com/ you will need a 'self ballasted' one..
by the way the cage looks good, does that back wall double as a vent?
he looks VERY small for his age, a 3 and a half month shoudl be around 10-12 inches, he still looks about 7-8 how much do you feed him and how often, what greens? and what suppliments.. this is a growth chart of dragons who are fed three times day, supplimented apropriately, and fed NUTRITIONAL GREENS liek the greens on http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html here is the growth chart http://www.dachiu.com/care/charts.html
at three months he should be eating between 80-100+ apropriately sized feeders per day, spread between three feeding, as well as veg like endive collard and squash.. lettuces are crap, little nutriton and mostly water, brocolli and spinahce bind to calcium, speaking of calcium when you suppliment, of the thre feeds a day, one should be dusted, four days a week the REP-CAL calcium with D3 and one day a week the multivitamin.. at a ratio of 5:1 one feed a day 6 days a week.. when he get older and is full sized, you can drop it down to a ratio of 3:1 or 2:1
feeders, you should feed crickets or roaches from herp shop, or home bred, an apropriate feedign size is this http://www.reptilerooms.com/forumtopic-8182.html and you should not feed mealworms as they are high in fat, have little nutrition protein or vitamins, have a hard chiten shell that can cause impacton, and death..
glad to see your using repti-carpet, or fake grass.. its safer than calcium based substrates, that claim to be 'edible' but not 'digestible' they can cause serious impaction and thus death, walnut substrate can also cause impaction and seriosue imfliction and slice up your beardies intestines, like on here (WARNIGN GRAPHIC IMAGES OF A BEARDIE DISECTION) http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
it is much safer to stick to repticarpet, non-adhesive shelf liner or slate tile.. non particle substrates are safer and much easier to keep clean, and no worries about impaction..
studies have been done on reptiglows and other compact forms of UVB, and the longetivity and rate the expend UVB is minimal and does not last evry long, most run out within the first month or two, http://www.uvguide.co.uk/compactlamps.htm your better off getting a reptisun 10.0 and getting him within 4-6 inches of it http://www.uvguide.co.uk/fluorescenttuberesults.htm or getting an MVB MEGARAY, which is the BEST UVB source on the market from http://www.reptileuv.com/ you will need a 'self ballasted' one..
by the way the cage looks good, does that back wall double as a vent?
also if your looking for a good source of imformation on beardies there diet and setup or just have a few Q's try www.beardeddragon.org
they have alot of links to research into UVB, dietry requirements, and substrate.. its like here, but instead of being dedicated to pythons and snakes, its for bearded dragons..
hope ve helped.. oh and also what are your temps, what do you measure them with? a digital probe is best a stick on therm can be up to 10 degrees off...
they have alot of links to research into UVB, dietry requirements, and substrate.. its like here, but instead of being dedicated to pythons and snakes, its for bearded dragons..
hope ve helped.. oh and also what are your temps, what do you measure them with? a digital probe is best a stick on therm can be up to 10 degrees off...
I was told he was 3 months, I'm not entirely sure. He gets tons of crickets and bokchoy, carrots and cabbage everyday. I'm NOT feeding him 80-100 crickets a day, if that's what you are suggesting. I know many people who own beardies and would never even dream of overstuffing their beardies with that much food!
Thanks for all the other inof though and yes that backwall is also a means of ventalition.
Thanks for all the other inof though and yes that backwall is also a means of ventalition.
Jakee
Well-Known Member
Great Set up
80-100 is not over stuffing,
by the way carrot and cabbage are not good feeders, either is bok choy,
try feeding endive as a staple, and read soem more on here http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html
did you read some if not nay of the links i sent you, if not its a big waist of useful imformation. .
he looks pretty thing, well average int he photo, a few more crickets wouldnt help.. it will help him grow, they have a hgih demand for protein.. if he is 3 months he should be around 10+ inches, if you can spare him the extra protein feeders he want he will grow before your eyes, at the moment he looks like he's onyl getting enough to sustain his own weight and not enough to use in growth, well mayby a little to grow but not enought o be keepign up with those who feed them what they need..
stringbean
Well-Known Member
the fake grass in the bottom looks good. is it easy to clean i was thinking of using some
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