Fess007
Not so new Member
Any info would be greatly appreciated ...
Tips on getting a 3 mth old GTP eating after travel....
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Slats
Well-Known Member
How longs it been since you travelled?
Make sure you give it time to settle and stop stressing.
Make sure you give it time to settle and stop stressing.
P
Pythoninfinite
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Some background info would help. How can anyone seriously offer advice when you can't even post the basics. In general GTPs are no different to any other snake - many will eagerly eat the day they arrive in their new home.
Fess007
Not so new Member
Sorry guys, ive had it now for almost 2 months, everytime you offer it anything it just tucks it head away, ive even seen it tail lurering and everything, just dont know what im doing wrong..???
Fess007
Not so new Member
Chris, it came with feed & shed records, it had consumed 11 feeds when I bought it, this is my first GTP that i have owned, and its not a very good experience so far ...
P
Pythoninfinite
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OK...
What is it housed in? Small (around 5L) plastic container is best for young GTPs. Most refuse to eat if they feel too exposed in a larger cage.
temperature should be around 28-29C.
Food item should be a pink mouse, then graded up to fuzzy as the snake grows. Thawed in hot tap water, and offered on forceps while still warm & wet.
Offer food in the evening when the snake is alert.
What sort of lid does the container have - sometimes when the lid is removed, especially if it is difficult to get off without a bit of movement, this can be very disruptive and make a shy animal reluctant to feed. In this case, I would remove the lid a few minutes before feeding, and place something heavy and flat (piece of board) on the top, so that you only have to slide a little of it open to offer the food.
If you get a 'strike & wrap' reaction, and the snake can still see you because of the position of the head in the coils around the mouse, you'll have to freeze or move away VERY slowly and leave it for as long as it takes to swallow the mouse. Any external distraction will often make them drop the food.
Finally, you may have to be a bit forceful when getting the snake to strike. Very few baby chondros will react immediately to mice - it's a very unnatural food item for them. In 99% of cases with my babies, I have to get them so peed off with the mouse touching them or irritating them that they strike at it. You may have to do this a few times until you get it to strike and wrap. Be persistent but patient. If no success, try again in a couple of nights.
You say you've had it a couple of months without feeding - baby chondros need to be fed fairly regularly because of the uniform temps at which they're kept. I wouldn't let it go too much longer.
What advice has the breeder offered?
Jamie.
What is it housed in? Small (around 5L) plastic container is best for young GTPs. Most refuse to eat if they feel too exposed in a larger cage.
temperature should be around 28-29C.
Food item should be a pink mouse, then graded up to fuzzy as the snake grows. Thawed in hot tap water, and offered on forceps while still warm & wet.
Offer food in the evening when the snake is alert.
What sort of lid does the container have - sometimes when the lid is removed, especially if it is difficult to get off without a bit of movement, this can be very disruptive and make a shy animal reluctant to feed. In this case, I would remove the lid a few minutes before feeding, and place something heavy and flat (piece of board) on the top, so that you only have to slide a little of it open to offer the food.
If you get a 'strike & wrap' reaction, and the snake can still see you because of the position of the head in the coils around the mouse, you'll have to freeze or move away VERY slowly and leave it for as long as it takes to swallow the mouse. Any external distraction will often make them drop the food.
Finally, you may have to be a bit forceful when getting the snake to strike. Very few baby chondros will react immediately to mice - it's a very unnatural food item for them. In 99% of cases with my babies, I have to get them so peed off with the mouse touching them or irritating them that they strike at it. You may have to do this a few times until you get it to strike and wrap. Be persistent but patient. If no success, try again in a couple of nights.
You say you've had it a couple of months without feeding - baby chondros need to be fed fairly regularly because of the uniform temps at which they're kept. I wouldn't let it go too much longer.
What advice has the breeder offered?
Jamie.
It would help to give us more details (temps, humidity (how is it provided), lighting regime, how are you offering his food and what kind (fresh, defrosted, scented) etc.)and a photo of the set up.
3 months without food is a reason for concern.
Ha, ha, Jamie beat me to it.
3 months without food is a reason for concern.
Ha, ha, Jamie beat me to it.
P
Pythoninfinite
Guest
The good thing is, once they start, there's usually no stopping them, and if conditions are correct they are constantly on the lookout for food.
GreatSnakes
Active Member
It could just be down to your feeding technique. Talk to the breeder as there could be a difference.
P
Pythoninfinite
Guest
Ha... sorry Michael! Did what I suggest make sense???
J.
J.
Fess007
Not so new Member
Hi Jamie
Mate i have it in a container about the size of a shoe box with the perching from side to side, end to end... Im also running a 5watt heatmatt and using Reptile One digital thermometer/hygrometer, the temp it is showing is 26.8 with 64% humidity, ( the box has a lighty fogged effect to it )... The breeder has been trying to assist me with this problem, im just trying to look outside the circle, so to speak ...
Mate i have it in a container about the size of a shoe box with the perching from side to side, end to end... Im also running a 5watt heatmatt and using Reptile One digital thermometer/hygrometer, the temp it is showing is 26.8 with 64% humidity, ( the box has a lighty fogged effect to it )... The breeder has been trying to assist me with this problem, im just trying to look outside the circle, so to speak ...
Fess007
Not so new Member
The container is 34cm long, 13cm high and 23cm wide ...
orientalis
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Jamie.....your advice sounds spot on.............
Fess007...........where is the sensor probe located?
Do you know how to check the thermostat is operating correctly?
What type of thermometer are you reading temperatures with?
It does sound like a husbandry / environmental issue.......like the advice before, fix the temps and environment.....the animal should feed easily...........
Maybe a picture or 2 of the set up and where in the house it is located?
Ie; in a high traffic area which has lights on until all hours?
Fess007...........where is the sensor probe located?
Do you know how to check the thermostat is operating correctly?
What type of thermometer are you reading temperatures with?
It does sound like a husbandry / environmental issue.......like the advice before, fix the temps and environment.....the animal should feed easily...........
Maybe a picture or 2 of the set up and where in the house it is located?
Ie; in a high traffic area which has lights on until all hours?
tWiStEd
Not so new Member
Mine has the same problem, he's nearly 2 years old now and still won't take mice. however if i put one next to him late at night, leave for 5-10 minutes then come back he will always have it half way down his throat. He just won't eat unless he's alone. Just a thought...
GreatSnakes
Active Member
If your temp probe is above the heat mat (I'm presuming you only have the heat mat under a 1/3 of the container at most) then your temp is definitely too low.
P
Pythoninfinite
Guest
I have a couple of adults that like to feed themselves when I'm not around, but babies usually are more responsive to moving food. I'd definitiely agree with Michael, temps are too low - mine usually run at around 29C, and they don't need any sort of gradient in a shoebox sized enclosure, which sounds fine to me.
All other things being OK, make the changes suggested here, and see how you go. I meant to say, if you replace the lid with something like a bit of wood for feeding, if you do get a strike & wrap, don't close it... just freeze or walk away if you can... but remember to replace it as soon as the snake has swallowed the pink. even if the snake has partially swallowed, just leave it until only the tail is sticking out, or it may just chuck it all back up.
Sounds like a workup, but you'll only need to do this a few times before the snake is just like any other, my babies at 4 months don't give a hoot about other things in the room when feeding. It's just a confidence thing... for you and the snake!
I'd give it one pink the first time you succeed, and then about every 5 days after that. He's probably got a bit of catching up to do!
Jamie.
All other things being OK, make the changes suggested here, and see how you go. I meant to say, if you replace the lid with something like a bit of wood for feeding, if you do get a strike & wrap, don't close it... just freeze or walk away if you can... but remember to replace it as soon as the snake has swallowed the pink. even if the snake has partially swallowed, just leave it until only the tail is sticking out, or it may just chuck it all back up.
Sounds like a workup, but you'll only need to do this a few times before the snake is just like any other, my babies at 4 months don't give a hoot about other things in the room when feeding. It's just a confidence thing... for you and the snake!
I'd give it one pink the first time you succeed, and then about every 5 days after that. He's probably got a bit of catching up to do!
Jamie.
Fess007
Not so new Member
Jamie,
Yeah i actually had it set up in a 10L container, have now transfered it into a 5L as you recommend, the box is fogging nicely with the temp now sitting on 28C with the thermometer probe at the opposite end to the heatpad, hows that sound now mate..???
Yeah i actually had it set up in a 10L container, have now transfered it into a 5L as you recommend, the box is fogging nicely with the temp now sitting on 28C with the thermometer probe at the opposite end to the heatpad, hows that sound now mate..???
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